Iglesias & the Southwest

Why Go?

Silky beaches, prehistoric treasures, haunting mines – Sardinia's southwest is rich in history and natural beauty. The main drawcard is its thrilling coastline, which stretches from the great untamed sands of the Costa Verde to the cliff-bound coves of the Iglesiente and the seductive bays of the Costa del Sud. Offshore, the Isola di San Pietro and Isola di Sant'Antioco boast their own distinctive charms: San Pietro with its animated and instantly likeable atmosphere, and Sant'Antioco with its earthy character and rich archaeological legacy.

Inland, there's a rather melancholy feel to the area around Iglesias, the southwest's charming main town. This was once the island's mining heartland and the silent hills are today pitted with abandoned mines, many of which have been resurrected as museums and visitor attractions. Further in, the Marmilla's voluptuous green countryside harbours rich archaeological pickings, including Sardinia's greatest nuraghe, the Unesco-listed Nuraghe Su Nuraxi.

When to Go

ASardinia goes to town for Easter (March or April), celebrating Holy Week with processions and parades. Iglesias excels at this with a series of hooded processions accompanied by deathly drumming.

AFoodies should pencil in late May or early June when the Isola di San Pietro goes wild for tuna at its big annual festival, the Girotonno.

AAugust is perfect for beach parties on the southern coast and exploring the remote dunes of the Costa Verde.

AFor hiking on the Iglesiente coast, April, May, September and early October are prime periods with good weather and beautiful colours.

Best Places to Eat

A Agriturismo Su Boschettu

A Cibus

A Osteria Della Tonnara da Andrea

A Agriturismo L'Oasi del Cervo

A Rubiu

Best Places to Sleep

A Nichotel

A Agriturismo Su Boschettu

A B&B Mare Monti Miniere

A Hotel Baia di Nora

A Hotel Luci del Faro

Iglesias & the Southwest Highlights

1 Spiaggia di Piscinas Escaping the coastal crowds on this remote beach on the Costa Verde.

2 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi Delving into the mysteries of Sardinia's nuraghic culture.

3 Capo Sandalo Revelling in inspiring coastal views on the Isola di San Pietro.

4 Strada Panoramica della Costa del Sud Driving this stunning coastal road.

5 Cala Domestica Beach Sneaking off the radar for a day at this magnificent secluded beach.

6 La Giara di Gesturi Coming face to face with wild horses on Sardinia's Table Mountain.

7 Tempio di Antas Poking around Roman ruins at this bucolic site, north of Iglesias.

8 Settimana Santa Giving yourself over to the sombre atmosphere of Iglesias' Easter processions.

9 Porto Flavia Marvelling at the engineering ingenuity of this cliffside port.

a Necropoli di Montessu Peering into the long-dead past at this prehistoric necropolis.

Iglesias

%0781 / Pop 27,190

Surrounded by the skeletons of Sardinia's once-thriving mining industry, Iglesias is a historic town that bubbles in the summer and slumbers in the colder months. Its historic centre, an appealing ensemble of lived-in piazzas, sun-bleached buildings, churches and Aragonese-style wrought-iron balconies, creates an atmosphere that’s as much Iberian as Sardinian – a vestige of its time as a Spanish colony. Visit at Easter to experience the city’s extraordinary Settimana Santa (Holy Week) processions, featuring trains of sinister, white-robed celebrants parading through the skinny lanes of the centro storico.

History

Although named after its churches – Iglesias means churches in Spanish – the town has a long history as a mining centre. The Carthaginians are known to have mined the surrounding area, as did the Romans who extracted silver and lead, and established a mining town, Metalla, in the hills south of modern-day Fluminimaggiore.

Iglesias itself was founded in the 13th century by Ugolino della Gherardesca. A Pisan noble with a shrewd head for business, Ugolino reopened the Roman mines and organised the town, which was originally called Villa di Chiesa, as a Tuscan-style comune (self-regulating town) with its own currency, rights and laws. These laws were subsequently codified and recorded in a book known as the Breve di Villa di Chiesa.

The city thrived but in 1324 it fell to the Catalan-Aragonese, who promptly renamed it Iglesias. More seriously, they closed its mines, and for the next 500 years the pits lay abandoned until private entrepreneurs, such as Quintino Sella, revived their fortunes in the 19th century. As a nascent industrial centre in a resurgent and soon-to-be-united Italy, Iglesias once again flourished until WWII and modern economics tolled its death knell in the 1970s.

1Sights

Much of the pleasure of visiting Iglesias lies in the medieval centre. There are no great must-see sights, but the narrow lanes and suggestive piazzas are in good nick and are much appreciated by locals who flock here to browse the shops and hang out in its bars. It's also here that you'll find many of the churches that give the city its name.

Chiesa di San FrancescoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza San Francesco; h8.30am-11.30am & 5-7pm)

From Piazza del Municipio, Via Pullo leads to the dainty rose-red trachyte of the Chiesa di San Francesco. Built over a 200-year period between the 14th and 16th centuries, this small church is a wonderful example of Catalan Gothic architecture with its simple austere facade, circular windows and single-nave interior. Flanking the nave is a series of chapels squeezed between the buttresses.

Cattedrale di Santa ChiaraCATHEDRAL

(Duomo; GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Municipio; h9am-12.30pm & 3-8pm)

Dominating the eastern flank of Piazza del Municipio, the Cattedrale di Santa Chiara boasts a lovely Pisan-flavoured facade and a checkerboard stone bell tower. The church was originally built in the late 13th century, but it was given a comprehensive makeover in the 16th century, which accounts for its current Catalan Gothic look. Inside, the highlight is a gilded retable that once held the relics of St Antiochus.

This was originally on the Isola di Sant'Antioco but it was bought to Iglesias in the 17th century to protect it from the threat of pirate raids. And although the clerics were later forced to return the relics, they managed to hold on to the altarpiece.

Flanking the cathedral on the piazza is the bishop's residence, the Palazzo Vescovile (Bishop's Residence; GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Municipio), and opposite is Iglesias' neoclassical Municipio ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Municipio). Both buildings are closed to the public.

Chiesa di Santa Maria delle GrazieCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Manzoni 7; h9am-12.30pm & 3-8pm)

Originally constructed at the end of the 13th century, the modest Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie retains little of its original form. About the only surviving element is the base of the medieval facade, which is topped by a pinky baroque structure, added in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Piazza Quintino SellaPIAZZA

( GOOGLE MAP )

Iglesias' focal square, Piazza Quintino Sella was laid out in the 19th-century in what was at the time a field outside the city walls. It soon became a central meeting place and still today it throngs with people during the evening passeggiata (evening stroll). The statue in the centre commemorates Quintino Sella (of Sella e Mosca wine fame), a 19th-century statesman and champion of the area's mining industry.

Museo dell'Arte MinerariaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 5176886; www.museoartemineraria.it; Via Roma 47; adult/reduced €5/4; h6.30-8.30pm Sat & Sun summer, by appointment rest of year)

Just outside the historic centre, Iglesias' main museum is dedicated to the town's mining heritage. It displays up to 70 extraction machines, alongside tools and a series of thought-provoking B&W photos. But to get a real taste of the claustrophobic conditions in which the miners worked, duck down into the recreated tunnels. These were dug by mining students and were used to train senior workers until WWII when they were used as air-raid shelters.

Castello SalvaterraTOWER

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Monte Artai)

Just off Piazza Quintino Sella, stairs lead to a stout square tower. This is all that remains of the Castello Salvaterra, the once-mighty Pisan fortress of Ugolino della Gherardesca. Behind it a path leads along a short section of the town's original crenellated wall.

To get a better idea of what the city looked like before the walls came down, head to Via Campidano, where a stretch of 14th-century wall remains defiantly in place, complete with towers.

Monteponi MineMINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 27 45 05; Monteponi Mine; adult/reduced €10/6.50; hby appointment only)

About 2km west of Iglesias, the sprawling Monteponi mining complex, now abandoned, was once one of Sardinia's most important producers of lead, zinc and silver. Extraction on the site started in around 1324 and continued on and off until 1992, when the entire operation transferred to Campo Pisano across the valley. Guided visits take in the Galleria Villamarina, an underground tunnel that connected the mine's two main shafts: the Pozzo Vittorio Emanuele and Pozzo Sella.

GUIDED MINE VISITS

A number of mines and industrial sites in the Iglesias hinterland can be visited on guided tours. These include Porto Flavia in Masua, Galleria Henry in Buggerru and the Monteponi Mine near Iglesias.

For information or to book a spot on a tour, either call the site directly or contact the tourist office in Iglesias.

zFestivals & Events

Settimana SantaRELIGIOUS

(Holy Week; hMar/Apr)

In the week before Easter, Iglesias celebrates its Spanish roots and traditions in a series of dramatic religious processions. Every night between Holy Tuesday and Good Friday, white-hooded participants bear effigies of the Virgin Mary and Christ through the historic centre to the sound of drums and heavy wooden rattles. Events culminate in the Good Friday procession, a sombre re-evocation of Christ's funeral.

Estate Medioevale IglesienteCULTURAL

(hAug)

Iglesias' Medieval Summer comprises a series of themed events that involve much dressing up and flag-waving. Highlights include a huge costumed procession through the centro storico on 13 August.

5Eating & Drinking

Pizzeria Il Quinto MoroPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 186 08 86, 349 4927035; www.facebook.com/pizzeriaquinto.moro.7; Via Cavour 18; pizzas from €4.70; h6-11pm Wed-Mon)

For a delicious pizza, search out this busy little place in the centro storico. It's decidedly no-frills with wooden tables, paper tablecloths and plastic cutlery, but the wood-fired pizzas are the business with their thick, Neapolitan-style bases. Unusually, they're sold in different sizes, either to eat in or takeaway.

Villa di ChiesaRISTORANTE, PIZZERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 3 16 41; Piazza del Municipio 9-10; meals €30; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun)

The elegant confines of Piazza del Municipio set the stage for alfresco dining at this long-standing summer favourite. In winter, diners move inside to feast on pizza, pasta and seafood while being serenaded by local crooners. Menu stalwarts include ravioli di cernia (ravioli filled with grouper) and sebadas (light pastry filled with cheese and honey).

Gazebo MedioevaleSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 3 08 71; www.facebook.com/gazebomedioevale; Via Musio 21; meals €30-35; hnoon-3pm & 8-11.45pm Mon-Sat)

A long-standing restaurant in the historic centre, Gazebo Medioevale looks the part with its exposed brick walls, stone arches and Sardinian masks. The food is fresh and authentic, with dishes ranging from cheese and cured meat platters to seafood pastas and hearty grilled steaks. No credit cards.

Caffè LamarmoraCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Lamarmora 6; h6am-1pm & 3-9.30pm winter, longer hours summer)

Occupying a towering 19th-century palazzo covered in Liberty-style advertising – these were added in 1904 – this landmark cafe is ideally placed for a quick coffee fix. In summer, linger at tables in the small square outside.

8Information

Banco BNLBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Roma 29)

Bank with an ATM.

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Vico Mercato Vecchio; h8.20am-1.35pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 27 45 05; Piazza del Municipio; h10am-noon & 4-8pm Mon-Sat)

Helpful tourist office located on the ground floor of the main Municipio building.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

ARST buses run to Cagliari (€4.50, one to 1½ hours, two daily) and Carbonia (€2.50, 50 minutes, nine daily) as well as closer destinations on the Iglesiente coast such as Funtanamare (€1.30, 20 minutes, at least six daily).

Intercity buses arrive at and depart from Via XX Settembre ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via XX Settembre) and Piazza Mercato ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Mercato) near the Giardini Pubblici.

Get timetable information and tickets from Bar Giardini ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Mercato 10; h5.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) across the road from the Piazza Mercato stop.

Car & Motorcycle

From Cagliari, it's 55km to Iglesias on the SS130, a dual carriageway. Alternatively, you can take the SS195 coastal road and connect with the SS126.

From the north, the SS126 drops south from Oristano to Guspini and then winds through the hills via Arbus and Fluminimaggiore.

Train

Up to 10 direct trains run daily to/from Cagliari (€4.30, one hour).

DON'T MISS

CLIMBING & CAVING

Rock Climbing

About 10km east of Iglesias, the town of Domusnovas is at the centre of one of Sardinia's top rock-climbing areas. The outlying countryside is peppered with limestone rocks, cliffs and caves, many of which are ideal for sports climbing. There are about 500 routes for both novice and experienced climbers ranging from simple, single-pitch walls to tough overhangs. Experts say climatic and rock conditions are at their best between early autumn and late spring.

For more technical information, check out www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingsardinia.html.

Caving

Several caves near Iglesias also merit a visit.

Grotta di San GiovanniCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Four kilometres north of Domusnovas, the Grotta di San Giovanni, an 850m-long natural cave-gallery adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, is worth checking out. It's free to enter and is illuminated between 9am and 9pm. If you're feeling peckish there's a bar-restaurant by the car park at the entrance.

Grotta di Santa BarbaraCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 27 45 07; adult/reduced €15/12; hguided tours 9am, 10.15am, 11.30am, 12.45pm Sat, plus 2.15pm & 3.10pm Sun)

The Grotta di Santa Barbara lies deep within the abandoned San Giovanni mine some 4km west of Iglesias. The walls of the single enormous chamber are pockmarked with dark-brown crystals and white calcite, while stalactites and stalagmites give the impression of a ghostly underground forest. To ensure a spot on a guided tour, it's advisable to book through the tourist office in Iglesias.

Grotta di Su MannauCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 58 04 11; www.sumannau.it; adult/reduced €10/6; h9.30am-5.30pm Easter-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, to 6.30pm Jul–mid-Sep, by appointment Nov-Easter)

A few kilometres south of Fluminimaggiore off the SS126, this is the largest cave system of its sort so far discovered in the Iglesiente. The standard hour-long tour passes through several lake chambers and the Archaeological Room, so-called because it's thought to have once housed a water temple. Finally you'll reach the Pozzo Rodriguez (Rodriguez Well), home to an impressive 7m column formed by a stalagmite and stalactite fusing together, and beyond that, the Rodriguez Room.

The Iglesiente

To the north and west of Iglesias, the mountainous landscape of the Iglesiente is picturesque and strangely haunting. Wild green scrub cloaks the silent hills in a soft, verdant down and abandoned mines, many of which can now be visited, serve as a poignant reminder of the industry that once thrived here. The coast is dramatic, one of southern Sardinia’s most beautiful, with plunging cliffs and superb seascapes at every turn.

To explore the coast, the SP83 coastal road dips and weaves its way northwards from Funtanamare, passing through the former mining villages of Nebida, Masua and Buggerru before petering to a halt at Portixeddu. Inland, the SS126 snakes through thickly wooded hills south of Fluminimaggiore leading to two of the area’s main sights: the Tempio di Antas and Grotta di Su Mannau.

Southern Iglesiente Coast

West of Iglesias, the SP83 coastal road affords spectacular views as it snakes its way northwards from Funtanamare to Cala Domestica, passing through the former mining communities of Nebida and Masua.

1Sights

Sights below (listed from south to north) are all easily accessible from the SP83.

Funtanamare BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The nearest beach to Iglesias is at Funtanamare (also spelt Fontanamare), about 12km west of town. A long strip of golden sand backed by dunes and fertile farmland, it's a hugely popular spot, though it rarely gets too crowded, if nothing else because it's so long. Strong winds make it a surfer favourite, particularly when the maestrale (northwestly wind) is blowing.

At least six daily buses run from Iglesias to the beach (€1.30, 20 minutes), and there's plenty of parking if you want to drive. Buses also continue to a second beach known as Plage Mesu, further south along the same strand.

oBelvedereVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Nebida)

This panoramic terrace, accessible by a cliffside path from Nebida's southern entrance, commands fabulous views. Dominating the seascape is the 133m-high Pan di Zucchero, the largest of several faraglioni (sea stacks) that rise out of the glassy blue waters against a backdrop of sheer white cliffs. The gutted shell of a building you see beneath you is the Laveria Lamarmora, a former mineral washing plant.

Pan di ZuccheroNATURAL FEATURE

(Sugarloaf; GOOGLE MAP )

A vast white scoglio (rock) rising out of the glassy blue seas in front of Masua, the Sugarloaf is one of the coast's great postcard sights. Named because of its resemblance to the more famous Pão de Açúcar hill in Rio de Janeiro, its distinctive bulk, which tops off at 133m, is visible from miles around.

oPorto FlaviaPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 27 45 05; Masua; adult/reduced €10/6.50; hguided tours 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am & 12.30pm Mon-Fri summer, plus 2.30pm & 3.30pm Sat & Sun year-round)

A marvel of early-20th-century engineering, Porto Flavia is a port dug into cliffs 50m above the sea. Consisting of two 600m tunnels and an ingenious mechanical arm, it was used to load zinc and lead ore directly onto cargo ships waiting in the waters below. To find it, head towards Masua's beach from where a road leads back uphill and around the coast for about 2.5km. Visits are by guided tour only; it's best to book through the tourist office in Iglesias.

Built in 1924, Porto Flavia revolutionised the system of shipping minerals from Masua. Before it was built, the mined ore had to be loaded onto boats that had been hauled up onto the beach. These then sailed to Carloforte to transfer their loads to larger cargo vessels. However, Porto Flavia enabled the ore to be transported directly from underground depots to the cargo ships by means of a conveyor belt (in the lower of the two tunnels).

Spiaggia di MasuaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Beyond the unsightly remnants of Masua's mine, this lovely little sandy beach provides memorable close-ups of the Pan di Zucchero rock stack.

oCala Domestica BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

A sensational sandy beach wedged into a natural inlet between craggy rocks, Cala Domestica is a heavenly spot. Its shallow blue waters are ideal for swimming and surfers can take to the waves that sometimes curl up here. A walk along the rocky path to the right of the beach brings you to a smaller, more sheltered side strand. The beach is situated north of Masua, about 5km from Buggerru.

Facilities are thin on the ground here, besides a pay car park and a small snack bar. Bring your own shade in summer.

5Eating

906 OperaioPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 9165388; Belvedere, Nebida; pizzas €5.50-12; h7.30am-midnight Easter-Oct)

For once the food plays second fiddle. A meal at this casual, laid-back pizzeria is all about its magical setting at Belvedere. Tables are laid out on a covered cliffside path offering extraordinary views over the plunging coastline and, in the distance, the famous Pan di Zucchero sea stack. The pizzas are pretty good too.

Buggerru & Portixeddu

Set within the natural stone walls of a steep valley, Buggerru is a popular resort with a small harbour and a rash of holiday apartments. Like many villages in the area, it started life as a mining centre and today its mine (aka the Galleria Henry) is a major visitor attraction. Mining aside, the village makes a convenient base for exploring the Iglesiente coast. Just a couple of kilometres to the north, the tiny tourist village of Portixeddu boasts one of the coast's best beaches, a gloriously unspoilt swathe of sand backed by remote green hills.

History

The largest village on the Iglesiente coast, Buggerru was established in 1860 and by the early 20th century had become an important mining centre. For a long time it was accessible only by sea, a fact that forced it into enterprising self-sufficiency – it had its own electricity supply before Cagliari and Sassari, as well as a hospital and small theatre. It wasn't all roses though, and in 1904 Buggerru's miners downed tools and went on strike – the first ever recorded in Sardinia. Later the closure of mines in WWI and the 1930s forced many workers to leave and the local population to plummet.

1Sights & Activities

Spiaggia di PortixedduBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 2km north of Buggerru, Spiaggia di Portixeddu is one of the best beaches in the area. A gloriously unspoilt strip of sand backed by swathes of rolling olive-green macchia, it extends for 3km up to the Rio Mannu, the river marking the end of the Iglesiente coast.

Galleria HenryMINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %388 9323529; www.comune.buggerru.ci.it; Via Roma 52, Buggerru; adult/reduced €10/6; hhours vary)

A remnant of Buggerru's day as a mining centre, the Galleria Henry is a 1km-long tunnel that was dug in 1865 to allow a small train to transport minerals from underground depots to washing plants. A highlight of the hour-long gallery tour is the view down to the sea 50m below. Call between 10am and noon to check opening hours or head to the website of the Comune di Buggerru.

MormoraBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 2727524; Porto Turistico; tours per person from €30)

To take to the local waters, this outfit runs boat tours and hires out boats (from €90 per half-day plus fuel) from Buggerru's Porto Turistico (Tourist Harbour).

HIKING THE IGLISIENTE COAST

The Iglesiente coast provides a dramatic setting for some wonderful hiking. Trails and dirt tracks hug the coastline, leading through green-capped slopes to hidden beaches and old mines, many of which can be visited on guided tours. A popular, though tough, route is the stretch from Nebida to Buggerru, via Masua and Cala Domestica beach. Best done over two, or even three, days, it's approximately 30km and involves some serious hill work.

5Eating

L'AncoraSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 5 49 03; Via degli Asfodcli 6, Località Portixeddu; meals €25-35; h12.30-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm summer, 12.30-3.30pm Thu-Tue winter)

L'Ancora is a small family-run trattoria overlooking the beach at Portixeddu. Its sea-facing terrace is a charming spot to chow down on mussels and clams, shellfish pastas and grilled fish of the day. It's open year-round but if coming in winter it pays to call ahead.

8Getting There & Away

Buggerru is about 15km north of Masua on the SP83. The only way to get here by public transport is to take a bus from Iglesias (€3, 70 minutes, six daily Monday to Saturday).

Three daily ARST buses connect Buggerru with Portixeddu (€1.30, 15 minutes).

Costa Verde

Extending from Capo Pecora in the south to the small resort of Torre dei Corsari in the north, the Costa Verde (Green Coast) is one of Sardinia's great untamed coastlines, an unspoilt stretch of wild, exhilarating sands and windswept dunes. Inland, woods and macchia (Mediterranean scrubland) cover much of the mountainous hinterland.

The area’s main drawcards are its two magnificent beaches – Spiaggia di Scivu and Spiaggia di Piscinas – and the former mining complex of Montevecchio. Elsewhere, keen hikers can summit Monte Arcuentu (785m), one of the last preserves of the cervo sardo (Sardinian deer), and lovers of quirky museums can learn about Sardinian knives at Arbus, a small mountain town sprawled along the slopes of Monte Linas.

1Sights

oSpiaggia di PiscinasBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

This magnificent beach is a picture of unspoilt beauty. A broad band of golden sand, it's sandwiched between a windswept sea and a vast expanse of dunes flecked by hardy green macchia. These towering dunes, known as Sardinia's desert, rise to heights of up to 60m. The beach is signposted off the SS126 and accessible via Ingurtosu and a 9km dirt track.

Once you exit the SS126 for Ingurtosu, the road descends through a valley lined with the abandoned buildings and machinery of a crumbling 19th-century mining settlement.

Facilities at the beach are limited but in summer one or two beach bars offer showers, umbrellas and sunloungers.

Spiaggia di ScivuBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

A 3km lick of fine sand backed by towering dunes and walls of sandstone, Spiaggia Scivu is the most southerly of the Costa Verde's beaches. To get there take the SS126 and head towards Arbus (if heading north) or Fluminimaggiore (if heading south) and follow the signs about 12km south of Arbus.

These direct you onto a narrow mountain track that leads into the scrub-covered southern heights. After about 13km you eventually arrive at a parking area, where there's a kiosk and freshwater showers in summer. From here, it's a few hundred metres walk to the beach.

Miniera MontevecchioMINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 97 31 73; www.minieramontevecchio.it; adult/reduced €5/3.50; h10am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm summer, Sat & Sun or by appointment winter)

Surrounded by woods and granite peaks, Montevecchio was once home to a massive mining complex. At its height in 1865, it was Italy's most important zinc and lead mine, employing up to 1100 workers. It remained operative until 1991, and since then has been kept alive as a visitor attraction.

Forty-five-minute guided tours take in the mines as well as the Palazzo della Direzione (Management Building), machinery workshops and workers' housing. For details of the monthly visiting times check the website.

Torre dei CorsariVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Marking the northernmost point of the Costa Verde, Torre dei Corsari is the area's main resort. In itself, it's not an especially attractive place, with bland modern buildings and an ugly concrete piazza, but it does have a good beach. This broad band of golden sand is sandwiched between an emerald-green sea and a range of mountainous dunes, which mushroom back into green scrubland. Overlooking the beach is a ruined watchtower after which the town is named.

The top end of the beach, known as Pistis, is a good long walk away or an 8km drive via Sant'Antonio di Santadi.

There's pay parking at both ends.

Museo del Coltello SardoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 0537765; www.museodelcoltello.it; Via Roma 15, Arbus; h9am-12.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, by appointment Sat & Sun)F

In Arbus's hilltop centre, just off Piazza Mercato, the Museo del Coltello Sardo is dedicated to the ancient Sardinian art of knife-making. The museum was founded by Paolo Pusceddu, whose s'arburesi (from Arbus) knives are among Sardinia's most prized. Check out Signor Pusceddu's historic knife collection, which includes one of the world's largest penknives.

WORTH A TRIP

CASCATA SA SPENDULA

Cascata Sa SpendulaWATERFALL

( GOOGLE MAP )

The wooded countryside around Villacidro, an agricultural town best known for its saffron-based liqueur, harbours a number of striking waterfalls. Chief among these is the Cascata Sa Spendula, where the waters of the Rio Coxinas crash down an imposing rock face en route to the Campidano plain. To get to the Cascata from Villacidro, head north for Gonnosfanadiga and follow the signs; it's about 1.5km from Villacidro.

5Eating

Agriturismo L'Oasi del CervoSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 301 13 18; www.oasidelcervo.com; Località Is Gennas; meals €25-30)

This rural agriturismo is as authentic as it gets. Once you've successfully navigated the 2.5km dirt track (follow the signs off the SP65) and are safely seated at the long wooden table, you're treated to an abundant farmhouse spread of tangy cheeses, cured meats, pastas, succulent roasts and homemade dolci (sweets). By reservation only.

Agriturismo L'AquilaSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 822 24 26; www.agriturismolaquila.com; Località Is Gennas; meals €25-30)

An isolated farm in the green hills northwest of Montevecchio, this welcoming place serves bumper meals with cold cuts, ravioli with ricotta, lemon and saffron, and traditional Sardinian desserts. To reach the farm, follow the signs off the SP65 and head up the dirt track for about 2km. By reservation only.

8Getting There & Away

Travelling in this area is difficult without a car. You can get to Arbus by bus from Cagliari (€5.50, two hours, up to 11 daily weekdays) and Oristano (€4.90, 1¼ hours, up to seven daily weekdays), but beyond that you're pretty much on your own.

Access to the area by road is via the inland SS126 which runs to Guspini and Arbus, from where Montevecchio is a short hop to the west. Continuing from Montevecchio, the SP65 winds northwards to Torre dei Corsari.

WORTH A TRIP

TEMPIO DI ANTAS

oTempio di AntasRUINS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 58 09 90; www.startuno.it; adult/reduced €4/3; h9.30am-7.30pm summer, to 5.30pm spring & autumn, to 4.30pm Tue-Sun winter)

An impressive Roman temple set in bucolic scenery 9km south of Fluminimaggiore, the Tempio di Antas has stood in isolation since the 3rd century AD. Built by the emperor Caracalla, it was constructed over a 6th-century-BC Punic sanctuary, which was itself set over an earlier nuraghic settlement. In its Roman form, the temple was dedicated to Sardus Pater, a Sardinian deity worshipped by the nuraghic people as Babai and by the Punic as Sid, god of warriors and hunters.

After lying abandoned for centuries, the temple was discovered in 1836 and extensively restored in 1967. Most impressively, the original Ionic columns were excavated and re-erected. At the foot of these columns you can make out remains of the temple's Carthaginian predecessor, which the Romans cannibalised to erect their version.

From the site several paths branch off into the surrounding countryside. One of them, the Strada Romana, leads from near the ticket office to what little remains of the original nuraghic settlement and on to the Grotta di Su Mannau, 2.5km away.

Sulcis

Named after Sulci, the ancient city the Phoenicians established on the Isola di Sant’Antioco, the Sulcis area encompasses Sardinia’s southwestern corner and its two offshore islands. Attention here is largely focused on its beaches and coastal splendours but venture inland and you'll discover a mountainous interior speckled with historical interest.

The area has been inhabited since prehistoric times and traces of its complex past are to be found everywhere – a nuraghic necropolis at Montessu, Phoenician tombs in Sant’Antioco, Roman ruins at Nora. Harking to more recent times, remnants of its once thriving mining industry offer a sobering insight into what life was once like in these parts.

But however much you travel the area, the call of the sea is always there. Even outside summer, the Costa del Sud is a glorious sight, and the Isola di San Pietro charms with its laid-back port and wild scenery.

WORTH A TRIP

EXPLORING THE SULCIS INTERIOR

With your own vehicle you can reach several noteworthy attractions along the back roads west of Cagliari.

Necropoli di MontessuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 6 40 40; www.mediterraneacoop.it; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am-7pm summer, to 5pm winter)

One of Sardinia's most important archaeological sites, this ancient necropolis occupies a natural rocky amphitheatre in the verdant countryside near Villaperuccio. It dates to the Ozieri period (approximately 3000 BC) and is peppered with primitive tombs known as domus de janas (literally 'fairy houses'). Many of these appear as little more than a hole in the wall, though some harbour wonderful relief carvings.

From the ticket booth it's a 500m walk up to the main site. When you first arrive up the stairs from the roadway, to your immediate right is a Tomba Santuario, a rectangular foyer followed by three openings into a semicircular tomb area behind. Follow the trail to its right to see a cluster of tombs and then the Tomba delle Spirali, where you can clearly make out the raised relief of spirals and symbolic bulls.

To get to the site from Villaperuccio, take the road for Narcao and follow the signs off to the left. It's about 2km.

Castello di AcquafreddaCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 1564023; www.castellodiacquafredda.it; adult/reduced €4/3.50; h9.30am-6.30pm)

Approaching Siliqua on the SS293 road, you'll see the fairy-tale image of castle ruins atop an extraordinary craggy mountain. These belong to the Castello di Acquafredda, a 13th-century castle that served as a temporary hideout for Guelfo della Gherardesca when his father, Ugolino, the reviled ruler of Iglesias, was imprisoned in Pisa and the family banished. Nowadays, little more than the castle walls remain.

Riserva Naturale di Monte ArcosuWILDLIFE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 55 20 35; www.wwf.it/oasi/sardegna/monte_arcosu; Località Sa Canna; adult/reduced €4/free; h8am-7pm Sat & Sun summer, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun winter)

Encompassing some 3600 hectares, the Riserva Naturale di Monte Arcosu is a WWF reserve and one of the few remaining habitats of the cervo sardo (Sardinian deer). Covering the peak of Monte Arcosu (948m), it also harbours wild boar, wildcats and plenty of birds of prey. From mid-July to mid-September access is only possible on a guided tour.

Carbonia

%0781 / Pop 28,755

A modern town fallen on hard times, Carbonia was constructed by Mussolini between 1936 and 1938 to house workers from the nearby Sirai–Serbariù coalfield. But since mining ceased in the area in 1972 it has struggled and there's really little reason to stop off in the town centre. Rather head out to the Grande Miniera di Serbariù and the Museo del Carbone, a museum dedicated to the town’s mining heritage. Slightly further away, but also worth investigating, is Monte Sirai, where the remnants of an ancient Phoenician fort lie littered around a panoramic mountaintop.

1Sights

Museo del CarboneMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 6 27 27; www.museodelcarbone.it; Grande Miniera di Serbariù; adult/reduced €8/6, incl Monte Sirai €15; h10am-7pm summer, to 6pm Tue-Sun winter)

Housed in Carbonia's decommissioned coalmine, the Grande Miniera di Serbariù, this fascinating museum provides a chastening look into the life of Carbonia's miners. The main exhibition hall displays a collection of machines, photos, equipment and documents. Tours into the claustrophobic mine shafts give a good idea of what it must have been like to work at the coalface.

Monte SiraiARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %320 5718454, 0781 6 35 12; www.mediterraneacoop.it; Località Sirai, SS126 Sulcitana; adult/reduced €6/5, incl Museo del Carbone €15; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 10am-3pm Wed-Sun winter)

Monte Sirai, 4km northwest of Carbonia, is crowned by the remnants of a 7th-century-BC fort. Built by the Phoenicians of Sulci (modern-day Sant'Antioco) in 650 BC, it was taken over a century later by the Carthaginians. Not a lot now remains but among the ruins you can make out the placement of the Carthaginian acropolis and defensive tower, a necropolis and a tophet (a sacred burial ground for children).

As well as the regular entry ticket, cumulative tickets are also available (€15) covering Monte Sirai and four other museums in Carbonia, including the Museo del Carbone.

8Getting There & Away

Carbonia is located on the SS126. ARST buses arrive at and depart from Via Manno in Carbonia's hilltop centre; for tickets go to Bar Balia at Viale Gramsci 4. Regular services connect with Iglesias (€2.50, 50 minutes, nine daily) and a host of local towns, including Portovesme (€1.90, 35 minutes, up to 11 daily), the ferry port for the Isola di San Pietro.

WORTH A TRIP

VILLAGGIO MINERARIO ROSAS

Villaggio Minerario RosasMINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 185 51 39; www.ecomuseominiererosas.it; Località Rosas, Narcao; €8; h9am-7pm summer, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm winter)

In the country near Narcao, the Villaggio Minerario Rosas is a fascinating museum complex housed in what was once an important lead, copper and zinc mine. The site's rusty minehead and heavy timber structures set the scene for exhibits illustrating village life and the workings of the mine. Visits take in the pit's former Laveria (Washing Plant), the underground mine shafts and a display of minerals, which showcases samples of rosasite, a mineral discovered on the site in 1908.

There are also nature trails to explore, an on-site pizzeria, and accommodation in the former miners cottages.

Tratalias

%0781 / Pop 1080

Now a sleepy backwater, Tratalias was once the religious capital of the entire Sulcis area. When Sant'Antioco was abandoned in the 13th century, the Sulcis archdiocese was transferred to the village and the impressive Chiesa di Santa Maria was built. The church today presides over Tratalias' lovingly renovated borgo antico, the medieval part of town, which was abandoned in the 1950s after water from the nearby Lago di Monte Pranu started seeping into the subsoil. The borgo is east of the modern town, off the SS195.

1Sights

Chiesa di Santa MariaCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Chiesa; incl Museo del Territorio Trataliese €2.50; h9am-1pm & 3-5pm Wed-Sun winter, longer hours summer)

This lovely church, the centrepiece of Tratalias' borgo antico, is a prime example of Sardinia's Romanesque-Pisan architecture. Consecrated in 1213, it features a simple facade punctuated by a classic rose window and an austere columned interior. To enter, you'll have to buy a ticket at the nearby Museo del Territorio Trataliese. Note also that the visiting times change monthly – for the latest, check www.trataliasturismo.it.

5Eating

Locanda MonserratSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 68 83 76, 340 4668760; www.locandamonserrat.it; Borgo Antico; meals €35; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight summer, Tue-Sun winter)

Tratalias' medieval chiesa sets a memorable backdrop for alfresco dining at the sole restaurant in the antico borgo. Refined and casually elegant, it specialises in seafood with exemplary dishes such as tagliolini con ricci di mare (thin pasta ribbons with sea urchins).

8Getting There & Away

A couple of weekday buses stop in Tratalias en route between Carbonia and Cagliari (€1.90, 35 minutes). There are also a couple of afternoon buses from Sant'Antioco (€1.90, 25 minutes) during the school term.

Note, however, that the borgo antico is someway east of the modern town centre.

DON'T MISS

NARCAO BLUES FESTIVAL

Narcao Blues FestivalMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 87 50 71; www.narcaoblues.it; hJul)

One of Sardinia's top musical events, the Narcao Blues Festival is held in the second half of July. The sleepy Sulcis town of Narcao stages blues, funk, soul and gospel concerts, performed by a cast of top international performers.

Santadi

%0781 / Pop 3470

Wine buffs can come to grips with the local Carignano wine at Santadi, a small agricultural centre in the hilly countryside east of Tratalias. The village, known locally for its annual Moorish Wedding festival, is home to the biggest winery in the southwest, as well as a small museum illustrating how its rural workers once lived. A few kilometres to the south, the Is Zuddas caves are well worth a visit.

1Sights

Cantina SantadiWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 95 01 27; www.cantinadisantadi.it; Via Cagliari 78; h8am-1pm Mon-Sat, plus 4.30-6.30pm Tue & Fri)

On the road between Santadi and Villaperuccio, this award-winning winery is the place to stock up on local wines. Particularly good are the highly rated reds Terre Brune and Grotta Rossa, both made with Carignano grapes.

Le Grotte Is ZuddasCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 95 57 41; www.grotteiszuddas.com; Località Is Zuddas; adult/reduced €10/7; h10am-12.15pm & 2.30-6pm summer, shorter hours spring & autumn, closed winter)

Five kilometres south of Santadi, the Grotte Is Zuddas is a fascinating cave system. Of particular note are the helictites in the main hall. No one really knows how these weirdly shaped formations were created, although one theory suggests that wind in the cave may have acted on drops dripping off the stalactites.

Museo Etnografico 'Sa Domu Antiga'MUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 94 10 10; Via Mazzini 37; adult/reduced incl Museo Archeologico €5/3; h8am-2pm Wed & Thu, 8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Fri-Sun)

To give an idea of how villagers lived in the early 20th century, this small museum recreates the home of a relatively well-off rural worker. Admission also covers Santadi's modest archaeology museum (same hours) at Via Umberto I 17.

zFestivals & Events

Sa Coia MaurreddinaCULTURAL

(Matrimonio Mauritano; hAug)

Like many rural towns, Santadi celebrates its traditions in high style. On the first Sunday of August, townspeople gather for Sa Coia Maurreddina (the Moorish Wedding), a costumed rite accompanied by folk dancing, eating and drinking. At the centre of events, the blushing bride and groom are transported to the main square on a traccas (cart) drawn by red bulls.

5Eating

oCibusOSTERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 3925289; Via Umberto I 24; meals €25; h12.30-2.30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun, daily Aug)

Santadi's local wines provide the ideal accompaniment to rustic country fare at this delightful osteria not long open. Handsomely decorated with wooden wine barrels, exposed brick and a sloping timber roof, it serves generous portions of uncomplicated favourites such as bruschetta, cured sausages and homemade pasta with rich, meaty ragù.

8Getting There & Away

Regular weekday ARST buses serve Santadi from Carbonia (€2.50, one to 1½ hours). There are also a couple of weekday services from Cagliari (€4.30, 1¾ hours).

By car, the village is about 20km north of Teulada on the SP70.

Isola di San Pietro

Boasting an elegant main town (Carloforte) and magnificent coastal scenery, the Isola di San Pietro is a hugely popular summer destination. A mountainous island about 15km long and 11km wide, it's named after St Peter who, legend has it, was marooned here during a storm on the way to Karalis (now Cagliari). The Romans had previously called it Accipitrum after the falcons that nest here.

Laid-back and friendly, San Pietro owes its unique character to its past as a Genoese colony. It was settled in 1736 by a group of Ligurian coral fishers who arrived after their previous home, the island of Tabarka, had been taken over by the Tunisian bey (governor). North African pirates subsequently raided the island in 1798, making off with 1000 prisoners. These eventually returned to the island after the Genoese Savoys paid a ransom for them. Today islanders still speak tabarkino, a 16th-century version of Genoese.

Carloforte

%0781 / Pop 6190

The very image of Mediterranean chic, Carloforte offers a refined introduction to the Isola di San Pietro. Graceful palazzi, crowded cafes and palm trees line the busy waterfront while, behind, a creamy curve of red-roofed buildings rises in a half-moon up the green hillside. There are no great sights as such, but a slow wander through the quaint, cobbled old town makes for a pleasant prelude to an aperitif and fine seafood meal at one of the town's wonderful restaurants.

A short drive south of Carloforte, beach-goers can take to the sand at the Spiagga La Bobba, one of a series of small beaches in the south of the island.

1Sights & Activities

Museo CivicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 58 80; Via Cisterna del Re; adult/reduced €2/1; h10am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue, 9am-1pm Wed & Fri, 4-8pm Thu, 5-8pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)

Uphill from the seafront, this small museum is housed in an 18th-century fort, one of the first masonry buildings to be erected on the island. Of chief interest is the Tonnara Room, dedicated to the island's tradition of tuna fishing. Continuing the nautical theme, there's an assortment of boating bric-a-brac and a small collection of Mediterranean seashells.

Isla DivingDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %328 5673136, 335 462502; www.isladiving.it; Viale dei Cantieri)

This outfit offers a full range of dives and snorkelling excursions around the island. Bank on from €70 for a dive (including equipment hire) and €35 for a snorkelling trip.

Carloforte Sail CharterBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 50 55, 342 1433106; www.cscharter.it; c/o Tabarka Viaggi e Turismo, Corso Battellieri 24; h9.15am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.15am-1pm Sat)

If you want to take to the sea, this operator has a fleet of sailing boats available for charter with or without a skipper (from €1500 per week). It also runs day tours of the island (€40 to €60 per person) and sailing courses (from €120 for a weekend course).

TTours

CarturBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %329 8586318; Molo No 3; tour per person €30)

Operating out of a booth on the lungomare (seafront), Cartur is one of several outfits offering three-hour boat tours of the island.

zFestivals & Events

GirotonnoFOOD & DRINK

(www.girotonno.it; hMay/Jun)

Dedicated to the tuna catch of the mattanza, the island's main annual event features cooking competitions, tastings, seminars, concerts and various nautical-themed events. It's held over four days in late May or June.

Creuza de MàMUSIC

(www.musicapercinema.it)

This annual three-day festival is dedicated to cinema music with concerts and screenings of films and documentaries. The dates vary from year to year – in 2016, it was in October – so check the website for details.

5Eating

Tuna is the king of tabarkina cuisine, as island cooking is known. It's on menus throughout the year, but it is only available fresh from May to August/September. You'll also be able to sample cuscus, a local variety of North African couscous, which is a staple of the town's many restaurants and trattorias.

GüštènTAPAS€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Battellieri; meals €15-20; hnoon-3.30pm Fri-Sun, plus 7pm-1am Thu-Tue)

For a change in atmosphere, head to Güštèn, a recently opened eatery and wine-bar. A good-looking place with exposed stone walls, chandeliers and an L-shaped bar, it takes a casual, contemporary approach with relaxed service and a blackboard menu of tapas (meatballs, mini quiches etc), gourmet hamburgers and local Sardinian wines.

oOsteria Della Tonnara da AndreaSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 57 34; www.ristorantedaandrea.it; Corso Battellieri 36; meals €40; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Thu-Tue, closed mid-Jan–early Mar)

Located at the waterfront's southern end, this charming restaurant is one of the best places to taste the local tuna (though it's only available in the tuna-fishing season). Signature dishes include lasagnetta di tonno con gocce di pesto (tuna and pesto lasagne) and ventresca di tonno (succulent red tuna steaks grilled and served with aromatic olive oil).

Al Tonno di CorsaSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 51 06; www.tonnodicorsa.it; Via Marconi 47; meals €35-45; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sun)

With its summery dining rooms and terrace overlooking Carloforte's rooftops, this refined restaurant specialises in fresh seafood. The star of the menu is the local tuna, which appears in various guises – smoked, grilled, in ragù and as tripe. Tuna tripe, known as belu, is a much appreciated local speciality that's served here in a casserole with potatoes and onions.

Ristorante L'OasiSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 67 01; Via Gramsci 59; meals €25-30; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm summer, closed Sun dinner winter)

Dig into honest, home-style island cooking at this friendly unpretentious restaurant. The menu, like many on the island, focuses on classic tuna and shellfish dishes, while the ambience is pleasantly rustic with exposed stone walls and a wooden ceiling.

Da NicoloRISTORANTE€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 40 48; Corso Cavour 32; meals €55; h8-11pm Mon-Thu, 1-3pm & 8-11pm Fri-Sun May-Sep)

A bastion of San Pietro cuisine, this island institution sits in elegant splendour on the seafront. Tables are laid out with starched formality in a glass pavilion, ready for diners who come to try sophisticated dishes showcasing locally caught fish, often coupled with aromatic herbs and zesty citrus flavours.

6Drinking & Nightlife

The lungomare is the place where it's at. The seafront is lined with bars and cafes, particularly the part around Piazza Carlo Emanuele.

Bar NapoleoneCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 47 73; Corso Cavour 5; h7am-2am)

The most popular of the bars lining Carloforte's palm-lined seafront. Its pavement tables are a top spot to hang out over an early evening sundowner and lap up the holiday atmosphere.

Barone RossoBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via XX Settembre 26; hnoon-3.30pm & 7pm-2am summer, closed Tue winter)

Just off the seafront, Barone Rosso is an island institution, a long-standing bar with a kitsch interior, lively tunes and a few streetside tables.

8Information

Banca Intesa SanPaoloATM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Cavour 1)

Bank with an ATM.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 85 40 09; Corso Tagliafico 2; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat summer, shorter hours winter)

Can provide island maps and tips on what to do and see.

Around the Island

1Sights

oCapo SandaloVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

The westernmost point of the island, Capo Sandalo is a superb vantage point, commanding breathtaking views down the cliff-bound coast. From the car park near the lighthouse, a marked trail (the Sentiero Rosso) heads through the rocky, red scrubland that carpets the clifftops.

Cala FicoBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

On the island's northwest coast, the rocky inlet of Cala Fico is one of the island's hidden beauty spots and, along with Isola del Corno, home to a nesting colony of Eleonora's falcons. The bay, resembling a tiny fjord, is flanked by a wall of chipped and cracked white-grey rock that catches the late afternoon sun and reflects the light onto the seawater, lending it a lovely turquoise colour.

La PuntaVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

A quick 5.5km drive north of Carloforte brings you to La Punta, a desolate, windswept point with sea views over to the offshore Isola Piana. In May and June crowds gather to witness the mattanza, the seasonal tuna slaughter, in front of the Tonnara, the island's abandoned tuna-processing plant.

Beaches

All of the Isola's beaches are in the south of the island, accessible by the SP103 and SP102. The nearest to Carloforte is Spiaggia La Bobba, about 6km from town. A small strip of sand, it's situated near two sea columns (Le Colonne) that give the island's southernmost point its name, Punta delle Colonne. Continue westwards and you come to the island's most popular beach, Spiaggia La Caletta (also known as Spiaggia Spalmatore), a relatively modest arc of fine sand flanked by boulders. Further south you can detour to view the spectacular coastline of La Conca.

8Getting There & Away

Regular Delcomar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 195344; www.delcomar.it; Carloforte; hticket office 5am-9pm) ferries sail to Carloforte from Portovesme (per person/midsize car €4.90/13.70, 30 minutes, at least 13 daily) and Calasetta (per person/midsize car €4.50/10.80, 13 daily) on the neighbouring Isola di Sant'Antioco. Buy tickets directly at the ports.

8Getting Around

From Carloforte, four main roads branch out across the island: the SP101 which heads north to La Punta; the SP102 and 103, which serve the south and the beaches; and the picturesque SP104, which cuts across the island to Capo Sandalo.

Bicycle

If you haven't got a car, the ideal way to explore the island is by bike. You can hire bikes (from €10 per day), as well as scooters (from €20) and cars (from €40) at D & G Motors ( GOOGLE MAP ; %329 9429628; Viale Osservatorio Astronomico 13; bike/scooter/car hire from €10/20/40; h8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-8pm Mon-Sat) in Carloforte.

Bus

On weekdays three daily buses run from Carloforte to La Punta (12 minutes), La Caletta (20 minutes) and Capo Sandalo (18 minutes). Tickets cost €1.30. Services are increased between mid-June and mid-September.

Isola di Sant'Antioco

Larger and less exuberant than the Isola di San Pietro, Isola di Sant'Antioco is Italy's fourth-largest island (after Sicily, Sardinia and Elba). Unlike many Mediterranean islands it's not dramatically beautiful – although it's by no means ugly – and it exudes no sense of isolation. Instead it feels very much part of Sardinia, both in character and look. The main town, Sant'Antioco, is an authentic working port, and the green, rugged interior looks like much of southern Sardinia. In fact, since Roman times, the island has been physically linked to the Sardinian mainland by bridge – the ruins of the Roman structure lie to the right of the modern road bridge.

Sant'Antioco

%0781 / Pop 11,310

A working fishing port that transforms into an animated summer hang-out, Sant’Antioco is the main town of the island that bears its name, the Isola di Sant’Antioco.

The island has been inhabited since prehistoric times, but the town was founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC. Known as Sulci, it was Sardinia's industrial capital and an important port until the demise of the Roman Empire more than a millennium later. It owes its current name to St Antiochus, a Roman slave who brought Christianity to the island when exiled here in the 2nd century AD.

Evidence of the town's ancient past is not hard to find – the hilltop historic centre and northern outskirts are riddled with Phoenician tombs and fascinating archaeological litter.

1Sights

oMuseo ArcheologicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 8 21 05; www.archeotur.it; €6, incl tophet €7; h9am-7pm)

This great little museum is one of the best in southern Sardinia. It has a fascinating collection of local archaeological finds, as well as models of nuraghic houses and Sant'Antioco as it would have looked in the 4th century BC. Highlights include an impressive pair of stone lions that once guarded the town gates, as was customary in Phoenician towns, and a panther mosaic taken from a Roman triclinium (dining room).

Basilica di Sant’Antioco Martire CatacombsCATACOMB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 8 30 44; www.basilicasantantiocomartire.it; guided tours adult/reduced €5/3; h9am-noon & 3.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-noon & 3.30-6.30pm Sun summer, shorter hours winter)

According to legend, St Antiochus was condemned to work in the island's lead mines by the Romans after he refused to recant his faith. But he escaped, hidden in a tar barrel, and was taken in by an underground Christian group who hid him in these catacombs beneath the Basilica di Sant'Antioco ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 8 30 44; www.basilicasantantiocomartire.it; Piazza Parrocchia 22; h8.30am-noon & 3-8pm summer, to 6.30pm winter).

Accessible by guided tour, the catacombs consist of a series of burial chambers, some dating to Punic times, that the Christians used between the 2nd and 7th centuries.

The dead members of well-to-do families were stored in elaborate, frescoed family niches in the walls – a few fragments of fresco can still be seen – while middle-class corpses wound up in unadorned niches, and commoners' bodies were placed in ditches in the floor. A few skeletons lying in situ render the idea a little more vividly.

Villaggio IpogeoTOMB

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.archeotur.it; Via Necropoli; €2.50; h9am-8pm summer, 9.30am-1pm & 3-6pm winter)

Sant'Antioco's Punic necropolis and its cavernous tombs were taken over by islanders in the Middle Ages as a safe haven from marauding Arab raiders. Here you can explore the grotto houses where they lived and where the island's poor continued to live well into the 20th century – it's reckoned up to 700 people were living in them in the 1930s.

Museo EtnograficoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %389 0505107; www.archeotur.it; Via Necropoli 24a; €2.50; h9am-8pm summer, 9.30am-1pm & 3-6pm winter)

At this small museum in the historic centre, you can investigate age-old living habits, as illustrated by an assortment of traditional farm tools and household implements.

TophetARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; €4, incl Museo Archeologico €7; h9am-7pm)

Dating to the 8th century BC, the tophet was an ancient sanctuary used by the Phoenicians and Carthaginians to cremate and bury their children and still-born babies. Before visiting, it's worth checking out the tophet display at the Museo Archeologico to see how the tombs were laid out.

Forte Su PisuFORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.archeotur.it; Via Castello; €2.50; h9am-8pm summer, 9.30am-1pm & 3-6pm winter)

Also known as the Forte Sabaudo, this 19th-century Piedmontese fort marks the highest point in town. Its most famous action took place in 1815 when the garrison stationed here failed to fight off a party of North African Saracen raiders. In the ensuing battle, many islanders were killed and more than 130 were taken prisoner.

zFestivals & Events

Festa di Sant'AntiocoCULTURAL

(hApr)

Held over four days around the second Sunday after Easter, this festival celebrates the town's patron saint with processions, traditional music, dancing, fireworks and concerts. It's one of the oldest saint's festivities on the island, dating to 1359.

5Eating & Drinking

The summer crowds lend Sant'Antioco's bars and cafes a lively holiday atmosphere. Cafe-goers sit out on sidewalk tables on tree-lined Corso Vittorio Emanuele and drinkers swarm to the waterfront bars on the Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo.

oRubiuPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %346 7234605; www.rubiubirra.it; Via Bologna; pizzas €5-11.50; h7pm-1am)

Craft beer, creative pizzas and a laid-back warehouse vibe await at this contemporary microbrewery. Housed in an industrial grey building, complete with bar and shiny aluminium brewing tanks, it has a terrific selection of home-brewed beers and does a nice line in original pizzas.

I Due FratelliSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %366 8397107; Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo 71; fixed-price menu €22-27; h12.30-3pm & 7.45-11pm)

If the sight of heaped fishing nets and boats bobbing on the waterfront puts you in the mood for seafood, head to this modest sea-facing trattoria. Its eggshell-blue interior – or sunny outdoor terrace – is just the place to try humble fishing fare such as marinated sardines, spaghetti with prawns, and fried fish.

Renzo e RitaRISTORANTE, PIZZERIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 80 04 48; www.renzoerita.com; Via Nazionale 42; pizzas from €4, meals €25-30; h7pm-midnight Thu-Tue)

A steady stream of locals keeps the pizzaioli (pizza-makers) busy at this cheerful pizzeria-cum-restaurant. Many buy takeaway but if you decide to eat in, it has a big, bright dining room and a comprehensive menu of pizzas, pastas and tempting seafood offerings.

Around the Island

1Sights

Much of the island's hilly hinterland is cloaked by macchia (Mediterranean shrubland) with the occasional white house dotted around the empty slopes. Most of the better beaches lie to the south of Sant'Antioco.

About 5km out of Sant'Antioco town, Maladroxia is a small resort with a couple of hotels and a pleasant beach and port. Further south, Spiaggia Coa Quaddus is a wild and beautiful beach about 3km short of Capo Sperone, the island's panoramic southernmost point.

On the windy west coast, bathing hot spots include Cala Lunga and Cala Sapone with wonderful crystal clear waters.

Calasetta, the island's second town, which was founded by Ligurian families from Tabarka in 1769, is 10km northwest of Sant'Antioco. There are several beaches in the vicinity, including the lovely dune-backed Spiaggia delle Saline (Salina).

5Eating

Outside of Sant'Antioco, you'll find a cluster of restaurants and eateries around the harbour in Calasetta, mostly specialising in seafood. Many island hotels also have in-house restaurants and offer rates for half-board (room plus breakfast and dinner).

Da PasqualinoTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 8 84 73; Via Regina Margherita 85, Calasetta; meals €35; h12.45-3pm & 7.45-11pm Wed-Mon)

In the grid of white streets that extend back from Calasetta's harbour, this popular trattoria is an ever-reliable choice for fresh seafood. Menu stalwarts include delicate fish couscous and fregula (couscous-like pasta) with mussels, clams, squid and prawns.

8Getting There & Away

There are two ways of approaching the island. By car, Sant'Antioco town is accessible by the SS126 road bridge. By sea, car ferries sail to Calasetta from Carloforte on the Isola di San Pietro.

Boat

Delcomar ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800 195344, Calasetta ticket office 342 1080330; www.delcomar.it; Calasetta; h7.15am-5.50pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) ferries sail between Calasetta in the north of the island and Carloforte (per person/midsize car €4.50/10.80, 13 daily) on the Isola di San Pietro. In Calasetta, get tickets from the small office at the port.

Bus

Buses run to Sant'Antioco town from Carbonia (€1.90, 50 minutes) and Iglesias (€3.10, 1¾ hours).

8Getting Around

Euromoto ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0781 84 09 07, 347 8803875; www.euromoto.info; Via Nazionale 57; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) hires out bikes (€12 to €25 per day), scooters (€30 to €45 per day) and cars (from €40 per day), as well as running a shuttle service to/from Cagliari airport (€10 per person). It also organises guided excursions led by volunteers; there's no fixed rate, although you're welcome to leave a tip.

Porto Pino & Around

Porto Pino, a frazione (ward) of Sant’Anna Arresi, is a small resort nestled among pine groves, lagoons and beaches. A popular day-trip destination, it boasts a good-looking beach and a ready supply of casual restaurants and pizzerias.

Just south of the resort's main beach, Spiaggia Porto Pino, there’s a second beach, Spiaggia Sabbie Bianche, famous for its soft, silky dunes. However, it's on military land and is off-limits outside of July and August.

Much of the area southeast of Porto Pino, including Capo di Teulada, Sardinia's southernmost point, is also owned by the military and inaccessible to the public. You can get to some beaches, though, including Cala Piombo and Porto Zafferano, albeit only in July and August, and only by boat. You can pick up a boat at the small marina at Porto di Teulada near Porto Tramatzu beach.

1Sights

Spiaggia Porto PinoBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The best and busiest of the beaches in this neck of the woods, Spiaggia Porto Pino is at the eponymous resort near Sant'Anna Arresi. A favourite with weekending locals, it's a broad swath of creamy sand lapped by lovely, shallow waters ideal for tentative toddlers and nervous swimmers. There's ample parking and a string of cheerful eateries near the parking lot.

5Eating

La MedusaSEAFOOD, PIZZA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %380 2434429, 0781 188 48 38; Via Porticciolo 16, Località Porto Pino; meals €25-30; hnoon-3pm & 7-midnight summer, Sat & Sun only winter)

A white villa with its own gated courtyard, La Medusa is one of several restaurants on Via Porticciolo, a short hop from the beach. It's a relaxed place where service is leisurely and the food, mainly seafood, simple and flavoursome. A menu highlight is orecchiette (pasta ears) with prawns, mussels and courgettes.

8Getting There & Away

To reach Porto Pino by car take the SS195 to Sant'Anna Arresi and then follow the signs.

A couple of summer-only ARST buses run to Carbonia (€2.50, one hour).

Costa del Sud

Extending from Porto di Teulada to Chia, the Costa del Sud is one of southern Sardinia's most beautiful coastal stretches. The main hub is Chia, a popular summer hang-out centred on two glorious beaches. Elsewhere, you’ll find several swimming spots on the Strada Panoramica della Costa del Sud, the stunning road that dips and twists its way along the rocky coastline.

1Sights & Activities

ChiaVILLAGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

More a collection of hotels, holiday homes and campsites than a traditional village, Chia is surrounded by rusty-red hills tufted with tough macchia. Its beaches are hugely popular, drawing an annual influx of sun-seekers, windsurfers and water-sports enthusiasts. To see what all the fuss is about, head up to the Spanish watchtower and look down on the Spiaggia Sa Colonia, the area's largest and busiest beach, to the west, and the smaller Spiaggia Su Portu to the east.

oStrada Panoramica della Costa del SudSCENIC DRIVE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Running the 25km length of the Costa del Sud, this panoramic road – known more prosaically as the SP71 – snakes along the spectacular coastline between Porto di Teulada and Chia. It's a stunning drive whichever way you do it, with jaw-dropping views at every turn and a succession of bays capped by Spanish-era watchtowers.

Starting in Porto di Teulada, the first stretch twists past several coves as it rises to the high point of Capo Malfatano. Along the way, Spiaggia Piscinni is a great place for a dip with incredible azure waters.

Beyond the cape, the popular Cala Teuradda beach boasts vivid emerald-green waters, summer snack bars and a conveniently situated bus stop.

From here the road climbs inland away from the water. For great coastal views, turn off along the narrow side road at Porto Campana and follow the dirt track to the lighthouse at Capo Spartivento. From here a series of beaches stretch north – watch out for signposts off the main coastal road to Cala Cipolla, a gorgeous spot backed by pine and juniper trees, Spiaggia Su Giudeu and Porto Campana.

At the end of this stretch you'll see another Spanish watchtower presiding over Chia, the small resort that marks the end of the road.

5Eating

Crar 'e LunaSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 923 00 41; www.crareluna.it; Viale Chia 41, Chia; meals €30; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun summer, Sat & Sun winter)

Set in its own verdant grounds with an alfresco dining area and a rustic, stone-clad dining room, this restaurant is a lovely setting for classy seafood. Try island classics such as bottarga (mullet roe) and burrida (dogfish) or play it safe with fried calamari (squid) or pizza (evenings only).

8Getting There & Away

Chia is located off the SS195, the main road that runs between Cagliari and Teulada. Regular ARST buses connect Cagliari with Chia (€4.30, 1¼ hours).

Pula & Around

Some 32km southwest of Cagliari, the village of Pula makes a good base for exploring the southern beaches and nearby site of Nora. There's little to see in the village itself, but in summer, visitors throng to its vibrant cafes and restaurants lending it an infectious holiday atmosphere.

From Pula, the SS195 road follows the coast southwest towards Chia. However, unless you're staying at one of the self-contained resort hotels that hog much of this part of the coast, you're unlikely to glimpse the sea around here. Which is a shame because the coastline is quite magnificent: a string of glorious sandy beaches lapped by crystalline waters and backed by fragrant pine woods.

1Sights

NoraARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 920 91 38; http://nora.beniculturali.unipd.it; adult/reduced €7.50/4.50; h10.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, 10.30am-5.30pm Oct, 10am-4pm Nov–mid-Feb, 8.30am-5pm mid-Feb–Mar)

About 4km from Pula, Nora's ruins are all that remain of what was once one of Sardinia's most powerful cities. Founded by Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, it later became an important Punic centre, and in the 3rd century AD, the island's Roman capital. It was eventually abandoned in the 8th century as the threat of Arab raids got too much for its nervous citizens. Highlights of the site, which is accessible by guided tour only, include a Roman theatre and an ancient baths complex.

Upon entry, you pass a single melancholy column. This is all that's left of a temple dedicated to Tanit, the Carthaginian Venus, who was once worshipped here. Beyond this is a small 2nd-century Roman theatre facing the sea. Towards the west are the substantial remains of the Terme al Mare (Baths by the Sea). Four columns (a tetrastyle) stand at the heart of what was a patrician villa; the surrounding rooms retain their mosaic floor decoration. More remnants of mosaics can be seen at a temple complex towards the tip of the promontory.

Overlooking the ruins, the Torre del Coltellazzo is a 17th-century watchtower set on the site of the Phoenician city's acropolis.

Regular shuttle buses run to Nora from Piazza Municipio in Pula.

Laguna di NoraLAGOON

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 920 95 44; www.lagunadinora.it; adult/reduced €8/6, excursions €25/15; hvisitor centre 10am-8pm Jun-Aug, to 7pm Sep)

On the western side of the Nora promontory, you can often spy pink flamingos stalking around the Laguna di Nora. To learn more about the lagoon and its aquatic fauna, pop into the visitor centre, which has a small aquarium and displays dedicated to whales and dolphins. There are also nature trails and, in summer, you can sign up for snorkelling tours and canoe outings.

Near the entrance to the lagoon are two beaches: the pleasant Spiaggia di Nora and, a little further around, the bigger Spiaggia Su Guventeddu.

Chiesa di Sant'EfisioCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 485 18 60; h4-7pm Sat, 10am-noon & 4-7pm Sun)

Before heading up to the archaeological site at Nora, take a moment to stop at this pint-sized Romanesque church. Dating to the 12th century, it marks the spot where the disgraced Roman commander Ephysius was executed for his Christian beliefs in AD 303. Despite its modest dimensions, it's the scene of great celebrations on 1 May as pilgrims bring the effigy of St Ephysius here as part of Cagliari's Festa di Sant'Efisio.

5Eating

S'IncontruRISTORANTE, PIZZA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 920 81 28; www.sincontru.it; Piazza del Popolo 69; meals €15-30; hnoon-4.30pm & 7pm-midnight)

The liveliest of the popular eateries on Piazza del Popolo, this casual square-side haunt buzzes on warm summer evenings. Diners swarm to its outdoor tables as waiters slide through the crowds bearing plates of wood-fired pizzas, grilled steaks and colourful seafood pastas.

Su FurriadroxuSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 924 61 48, 338 7317096; www.sufurriadroxu.it; Via XXIV Maggio 11; meals €25-30; h8-10pm Mon & Thu-Sat, 1-2.30pm Sun)

The flavours of the Campidano district are celebrated at this good-looking restaurant near Piazza del Popolo. Housed in a farm-style building, complete with a well and cobbled courtyard, it serves wholesome country food such as malladdedus (spiralled Sardinian gnocchi) with pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) and asparagus, and boar in red wine sauce.

Zia LeunoraSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 920 95 59; Via Trieste 19; meals €35-40; h7-11.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 1-3pm Sun)

Tucked away in a backstreet in Pula's historic centre, Zia (Aunty) Leunora specialises in seafood and serves a full range of classic staples, including fried fish and sea bream roasted in salt. Its spacious wood-beamed hall is an attractive place to dine.

8Information

Tourist Information PointTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 920 93 33; Corso Vittorio Emauele, cnr Piazza Municipio; h9.30am-12.30pm & 4-7pm, longer hours summer)

Kiosk with maps and printed material in English.

8Getting There & Away

From Cagliari, there are hourly buses to Pula (€3.10, 50 minutes), many of which continue onto Santa Margherita di Pula (€3.70, one hour and 10 minutes, nine daily).

La Marmilla

Some 55km north of Cagliari, the dusty plains of the Campidano district give way to the undulating green hills of La Marmilla. Named after these low-lying mounds – marmilla is derived from mammellare, meaning 'breast shaped' – La Marmilla is an area of bucolic scenery and quiet, rural life. It's also one of Sardinia's richest archaeological regions, and it's here, in the shadow of the table-topped high plain known as La Giara di Gesturi, that you'll find the island's best-known nuraghic site, the Unesco-listed Nuraghe Su Nuraxi.

WINDOWS TO THE PAST

For centuries, the locals thought little about the stone towers scattered across the island and many were used as humble shepherds' shelters. Then, 70 years ago, carbon footage revealed that they were in fact Bronze Age fortified settlements, most built between 1800 and 500 BC. In the absence of any written records – a fact that has led scholars to assume that the early Sards never had a written language – the nuraghi (stone towers) and tombe dei giganti (literally 'giants' tombs'; ancient mass graves) provide one of the few available windows into the mysterious nuraghic civilisation.

There are said to be up to 7000 nuraghi across the island, probably twice that many if you count those still underground. Their exact function has long been debated, but the consensus is that they served as watchtowers and sacred sites for religious rites, as well as being used for celebrations and commercial exchanges.

Early nuraghi were simple free-standing structures with internal chambers. Over time, they became bigger – the Nuraghe Santu Antine at Torralba is the tallest remaining nuraghe, at 25m – and increasingly complex with elaborate rooms and labyrinthine passages. Walls were raised around the watchtowers and villagers began to cluster within the walls' protective embrace. The most spectacular example of this is the beehive complex of the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi.

Barumini & Nuraghe Su Nuraxi

A tiny stone village, Barumini has blossomed into a major tourist draw thanks to the nearby Nuraghe Su Nuraxi, Sardinia’s largest and best-known prehistoric site. Once you’ve visited the nuraghe and Barumini’s charming museum you’ve pretty much exhausted the village’s attractions, but it makes a tranquil base for exploring the surrounding countryside and Giara dei Gesturi.

1Sights

oNuraghe Su NuraxiARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 936 81 28; www.fondazionebarumini.it; adult/reduced €11/7; h9am-7pm summer, to 4pm winter)

In the heart of the voluptuous green countryside near Barumini, the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi is Sardinia’s sole World Heritage Site and the island’s most visited nuraghe. The focal point is the 1500 BC tower, which originally stood on its own but was later incorporated into a fortified compound. Many of the settlement's buildings were erected in the Iron Age, and it's these that constitute the beehive of circular interlocking buildings that tumble down the hillside.

The Nuraxi tower, the oldest part of the complex, originally rose to a height of 18.6m and had three floors, each housing a single tholos (internal chamber). It was subsequently strengthened in around 1200 BC with the addition of four subsidiary towers and a massive curtain wall.

The first village huts arrived in the Bronze Age, between the 11th and 9th centuries BC, though many of the ruins you see today date to a later phase of construction in the 6th and 7th centuries BC. As the village grew, a more complex defensive wall was built around the core, consisting of nine towers with arrow slits. Weapons in the form of massive stone balls have also been unearthed here.

In the 7th century BC the site was partly destroyed but not abandoned. In fact it grew and it was still inhabited in Roman times. Elements of basic sewerage and canalisation have even been identified.

The site was rediscovered by Giovanni Lilliu (Sardinia's most famous archaeologist) in 1949, after torrential rains eroded the compact earth that had covered the nuraghe and made it look like just another Marmilla hillock. Excavations continued for six years and today the site is the only entirely excavated nuraghe in Sardinia. You can get an inkling of the work involved by seeing how many square bricks have been incorporated into the structure – these were deliberately made to stand out so they could be distinguished from the original basalt.

Visits are by guided tour only. It's also worth noting that queues are the norm in summer when it can get extremely hot on the exposed site.

Casa ZapataMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 936 84 76; www.fondazionebarumini.it; Piazza Giovanni XXIII; adult/reduced incl Nuraghe Su Nuraxi €11/7; h10am-1hr before sunset)

This attractive museum complex occupies the 16th-century residence of the Spanish Zapata family, La Marmilla's 16th-century rulers. The whitewashed villa was originally built over a 1st-millennium-BC nuraghic settlement, which has been skilfully incorporated into the museum's display. You'll also find artefacts from the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi, a section dedicated to the Zapata dynasty, and a small collection of traditional musical instruments.

Parco Sardegna In MiniaturaAMUSEMENT PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 936 10 04, 370 1357035; www.sardegnainminiatura.it; adult/reduced €15/12; h9am-7pm Apr-Nov)

A kilometre west of Barumini, the Parco Sardegna in Miniatura is a family-friendly theme park centred on a miniature reconstruction of Sardinia. Other attractions include a dinosaur park, a recreated nuraghic village, a biosphere, planetarium and plenty of picnic tables. Note that there are various admission prices depending on what you want to visit.

Castello di MarmillaCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Las Plassas)

Lording it over the electric green landscape, the scant ruins of the 12th-century Castello di Marmilla sit atop a perfectly pyramidal hill near the hamlet of Las Plassas, 3km southwest of Barumini. The castle was originally part of a defensive line that the medieval rulers of Arborea built on the frontier with the province of Cagliari.

To get to the castle from Las Plassas, follow the road for Tuili and you'll soon see a path on your left rising up the hill.

8Getting There & Away

Two weekday buses run from Cagliari to Barumini (€4.90, 1½ to two hours) via Sanluri. Once in the village you'll need to walk out to the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi, about a kilometre away.

La Giara di Gesturi

Looming over the countryside northwest of Barumini is the altopiano (high plain) known as La Giara dei Gesturi – Sa Jara in local dialect. The result of volcanic activity millions of years ago, the plateau is a beautiful natural wilderness, stretching for about 12km by 4km at an average height of 550m. Wildlife thrives in the area, which is home to Sardinia’s last population of wild ponies, the so-called cavallini.

The principal gateway to the Giara, which is a protected area and off-limits to cars, is Tuili, though you can also reach it from Setzu or Gesturi.

1Sights

oLa Giara di GesturiAREA

(Altopiano della Giari; GOOGLE MAP )

Rising above the rolling green landscape, La Giara di Gesturi is a high basalt plateau famous for its wild horses and uncontaminated natural beauty. The 45-sq-km plain, much of which is carpeted by macchia (Mediterranean scrubland) and woods of ancient oak and cork trees, offers excellent walking and wonderful wildlife watching.

Approaching the Giara from Tuili, the road climbs in a series of steep switchbacks to a car park at the Giara's southernmost entrance.

From here, a well-trodden trail leads to a small lake called the Pauli Mauri. This is one of several seasonal paulis (pools) on the Giara where you just might spot one of the area's indigenous cavallini (ponies) as they come out to drink. The best time to try for a sighting is the early morning or late afternoon.

The plateau also has its own microclimate, which fosters an array of unusual flora, best seen in spring when the ground is covered in heather and the wild orchids are in bloom.

Chiesa di Santa Teresa d'AvilaCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Fra Nicola, Gesturi)

On the Giara's southeastern flank, the town of Gesturi is dominated by the 30m-high bell tower of the Chiesa di Santa Teresa d'Avila. The faithful flock to this 17th-century parish church to celebrate Gesturi's greatest son, Fra Nicola 'Silenzio' (1882–1958), a Franciscan friar revered for his wisdom and simple life.

2Activities

Parco della Giara EscursioniOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %348 2924983, 070 936 42 77; www.parcodellagiara.it; Via Tuveri 16, Tuili)

Operating out of Tuili, this local outfit leads guided tours of the Giara. A standard two-hour tour costs €50 for a group of one to five adults.

8Getting There & Away

One weekday bus runs from Cagliari to Tuili (€4.90, 2½ hours) via Sanluri, although you'll need your own transport for the final leg up to the Giara.

Villanovaforru & Nuraghe Genna Maria

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On the southern fringes of La Marmilla, Villanovaforru is a manicured, pretty little village famous for its archaeological sites. The village itself boasts a worthwhile museum, while a short hop to the west is the important nuraghe of Genna Maria.

1Sights

Museo ArcheologicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 930 00 50; www.gennamaria.it; Piazza Costituzione 4; €3.50, incl Complesso Nuragico di Genna Maria €5; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sun summer, to 6pm winter)

Housed in a yellow 19th-century palazzo in the village centre, the Museo Archeologico provides a good overview of the area's prehistoric past with finds from many local sites, including Su Nuraxi and Genna Maria. Exhibits include some enormous amphorae and pots, metal and stone tools, oil lamps, jewellery and coins.

Complesso Nuragico di Genna MariaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.gennamaria.it; €2.50, incl Museo Archeologico €5; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sun summer, to 6pm winter)

This nuraghic complex, signposted as the Parco Archeologico, is set on a panoramic wooded hilltop about 1km out of the village on the road to Collinas. One of the most important nuraghi in Sardinia, it consists of a central tower, around which was raised a three-cornered bastion. Much later an encircling wall was built to protect an Iron Age village, of which little has survived.

Museo Sa Corona ArrubiaMUSEUM

(Museo Naturalistico del Territorio Giovanni Pusceddu; GOOGLE MAP ; %070 934 10 09; www.sacoronarrubia.it; Località Sa Corona Arrubia; adult/reduced €6/4; h3-7pm Mon, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Thu, 9am-7pm Fri-Sun)

To the northeast of Villanovaforru near Lunamatrona, this excellent museum showcases the area's flora and fauna, as well as illustrating its ancient history and rural culture. Recreations of prehistoric sites and dioramas of local habitats bring the subjects to life, while information panels explain what you're looking at. The museum also hosts temporary art exhibitions, many dedicated to local artists.

5Eating

oAgriturismo Su BoschettuAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 93 98 84, 333 4797401; www.suboschettu.it; Località Pranu Laccu, Pauli Arbarei; meals €25; hby reservation)

Come hungry, take a seat and wait for the fun to begin. Out will come an array of delicious antipasti – seasonal vegetables, salami, cheeses – all accompanied by warm home-baked bread. Next up is pasta, perhaps ravioli filled with lemon-infused ricotta, followed by grilled meat and a selection of unpronounceable desserts. It's quite magnificent, especially if capped with a glass of local mirto.

8Getting There & Away

One weekday bus runs to Villanovaforru from Cagliari (€4.30, 1¾ hours). There are also services to/from Sardara (€1.30, 30 minutes, five Monday to Saturday) and Sanluri (€1.90, 45 minutes, one Monday to Saturday).

Sardara

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Sardara, about 8km southwest of Villanovaforru, is a sleepy town with an attractive stone centre and several interesting archaeological sights. It's also known for its curative waters. The Romans built thermal baths in the nearby locality of Santa Maria de Is Acquas and people still come to indulge themselves at the local spa facilities.

1Sights

Sardara's thermal waters have been attracting visitors to the town since ancient times. To treat yourself to a soothing day in the wet stuff you can buy a day's entrance to one of the spa hotels in Santa Maria de Is Acquas. A typical package costs €40 (€50 at weekends) and covers access to the thermal swimming pool and lunch.

Area ArcheologicoARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 938 61 83; www.coopvillabbas.sardegna.it; Piazza Sant'Anastasia; €2.60, incl Civico Museo €4.50; h9am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun summer, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun winter)

A few hundred metres from Sardara's museum, the Gothic Chiesa di Sant'Anastasia sits in the midst of what was once a much larger nuraghic temple. An important place of worship between the 11th and 7th centuries BC, the temple features an underground well, known as Sa funtana de is dolus (Fountain of Pain), whose waters were supposed to have had curative properties.

Civico Museo Archeologico Villa AbbasMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 938 61 83; www.coopvillabbas.sardegna.it; Piazza Liberta 7; €2.60, incl Area Archeologico €4.50; h9am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun summer, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun winter)

At the top of the historic centre, this modest museum showcases a collection of finds from local archaeological sites. Among the finest pieces are two 8th-century-BC bronze statuettes found on the edge of Sardara in 1913.

8Getting There & Away

Sardara is just off the SS131 about halfway between Cagliari and Oristano. Regular buses serve Sardara from Cagliari (€4.30, 1¼ hours) and Sanluri (€1.90, 15 minutes). Buses also connect with Villanovaforru (€1.30, 30 minutes, three daily weekdays).

Sanluri

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One of the biggest towns in the Medio Campidano province, Sanluri is a bustling agricultural centre. In the 14th century Queen Eleonora d'Arborea lived here for a period and the town was a key member of her opposition to Catalan-Aragonese expansion. In 1409 island resistance was finally crushed at the Battle of Sanluri, paving the way for centuries of Iberian domination. Unfortunately, little remains to vouch for the town's former glory apart from Eleonora's squat, brooding castle.

1Sights

Castello di SanluriMUSEUM, CASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 930 71 05; www.castellodisanluri.it; Via Generale Nino Villa Santa 1; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h10am-1pm & 3.30-7pm)

Just off Via Carlo Felice, the main road through town, Sanluri's 14th-century castle houses the Museo Risorgimentale Duca d'Aosta and its eclectic collection of assorted military paraphernalia. Outside in the garden, you'll see a medieval catapult, while inside you're treated to an extraordinary display of objects, ranging from period furniture and military mementos to an assortment of almost 400 wax figurines.

5Eating

Bistrot Il CastelloTRATTORIA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 7378339; Piazza Castello; meals €25; h8am-3.30pm & 5.15-11.30pm Tue-Sun)

After visiting the Castello, decamp to this attractive stone-clad bar-trattoria near the castle entrance. Relaxed and informal, it's good for a classic meal of cured meats and cheeses, seasonally driven pastas and grilled steaks, all accompanied by a carafe of fortifying local wine.

8Getting There & Away

Sanluri is well served by bus with regular connections to/from Cagliari (€3.70, one to 1¼ hours). There are also a couple of weekday services to Barumini (€2.50, 35 minutes) and Villanovaforru (€1.90, 25 to 45 minutes).