Nuoro & the East

Why Go?

Nowhere else in Sardinia is nature such an overwhelming force as in the wild, wild east, where the Supramonte’s imperious limestone mountains roll down to the Golfo di Orosei’s cliffs and startling aquamarine waters. Who knows where that winding country road might lead you? Perhaps to deep valleys concealing prehistoric caves and Bronze Age nuraghi, to the lonesome villages of the Barbagia steeped in bandit legends, or to forests where wild pigs snuffle amid centuries-old holm oaks. Neither time nor trend obsessed, this region is refreshingly authentic.

Outdoor action is everywhere: along the coast where you can drop anchor in a string of pearly white bays, upon the cliffs where you can multi-pitch climb above the sea, on old mule trails best explored by mountain bike, and atop peaks and ravines only reachable on foot. True, the Costa Smeralda attracts more celebrities, but the real rock stars and rolling stones are right here.

When to Go

ABonfires and masked dancers fill Mamoiada's streets during the Festa di Sant'Antonio Abate in January.

AIn June, explore the magnificent cliffs and coves of Golfo di Orosei before temperatures and prices soar.

ATackle the classic Selvaggio Blu trek or ride the trenino verde through Sorgono's vineyards in September.

Best Places to Eat

A Il Portico

A Su Bullicciu

A Santa Rughe

A Ristorante Ispinigoli

A Agriturismo Testone

Best Places to Sleep

A Agriturismo Guthiddai

A Casa Solotti

A Albergo Diffuso Mannois

A Agriturismo Codula Fuili

A Su Gologone

Nuoro & the East Highlights

1 Gola Su Gorropu Walking on the wild side in Europe’s Grand Canyon.

2 Golfo di Orosei Dropping anchor among the hidden coves and secluded beaches of Sardinia's most magnificent bay.

3 SS125 Taking a scenic drive along this serpentine road for captivating views of the mountains and the Med.

4 Tiscali Marvelling at mysterious nuraghic ruins high in the Supramonte's limestone mountains.

5 Altopiano del Golgo Leaving the world behind as you explore this weird highland plateau.

6 Cala Gonone Enjoying exhilarating coastal walks before cooling off with a dip in the bluest of seas.

7 Ulassai Scaling the hidden heights in this up-and-coming rock-climbing destination.

Nuoro

%0784 / Pop 37,100

Once an isolated hilltop village and a byword for banditry, Nuoro had its cultural renaissance in the 19th and early 20th centuries when it became a hotbed of artistic talent. Today museums in the historic centre pay homage to local legends including Nobel Prize–winning author Grazia Deledda, acclaimed poet Sebastiano Satta, novelist Salvatore Satta and sculptor Francesco Ciusa. Further enhancing Nuoro's modern-day cultural vitality are the local university, with its graduate program in environmental studies and sustainable development, and the city's recently renovated ethnographic museum.

Nuoro’s spectacular backdrop is the granite peak of Monte Ortobene (955m), capped by a 7m-high bronze statue of the Redentore (Christ the Redeemer). The thickly wooded summit commands dress-circle views of the valley below and the limestone mountains enshrouding Oliena opposite.

History

Archaeologists have unearthed evidence of prehistoric nuraghic settlements in the Nuoro area. A popular theory maintains that the city was established when locals opposed to Roman rule grouped together around Monte Ortobene. But little is known of the city before the Middle Ages, when it was passed from one feudal family to another under the Aragonese and, later, Spain.

By the 18th century the town, now under Piedmontese control, had a population of around 3000, mostly farmers and shepherds. A tough, often violent, place, it rose in rebellion in 1868 when citizens burned down the town hall to protest attempts to privatise public land (and thus hand it to the rich landowners). This action, known as Su Connuttu, no doubt confirmed the new Italian nation’s view of the whole Nuoro district as a ‘crime zone’, an attitude reflected in its treatment of the area, which only served to further alienate the Nuoresi and cement their mistrust of authority.

Nuoro was appointed a provincial capital in 1927. It quickly developed into a bustling administrative centre. Although the traditional problem of banditry has long since subsided and the town presents a cheerful enough visage, Nuoro remains troubled, as high unemployment forces many young people to leave in search of work.

Nuoro

1Top Sights

1Museo Etnografico SardoD4

1Sights

2Cattedrale di Santa Maria della NeveD3

3Museo Archeologico NazionaleD2

4Museo CiusaD2

5Museo DeleddianoD1

6Museo MANC2

7Parco Colle Sant'OnofrioD4

8Piazza SattaC2

4Sleeping

9Silvia e PaoloC2

5Eating

10Il PorticoD2

11Il RifugioC3

12La Locanda Pili MonicaC2

13MontibluC1

6Drinking & Nightlife

14Bar NuovoC2

15Caffè Tettamanzi Bar MayoreC2

7Shopping

16Coltelli SardiC2

1Sights

oMuseo Etnografico SardoMUSEUM

(Museo del Costume; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.isresardegna.it; Via Antonio Mereu 56; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am-1pm & 3-8pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–Sep, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Oct–mid-Mar)

Beautifully renovated in 2016, this museum zooms in on Sardinian folklore, harbouring a peerless collection of filigree jewellery, carpets, tapestries, rich embroidery, musical instruments, weapons and masks. The highlight is the traditional costume display – the styles, colours and patterns speaking volumes about the people and their villages. Look out for fiery red skirts from the fiercely independent mountain villages, the Armenian-influenced dresses of Orgosolo and Desulo finished with a blue-and-yellow silk border, and the burkalike headdresses of Ittiri and Osilo.

Other rooms display life-size exhibits from the region’s more unusual festivals. These include Mamoiada’s sinister mamuthones (costumed characters), with their shaggy sheepskins and scowling masks, and Ottana’s boes (men masked as cattle), with their tiny antelopelike masks, huge capes and furry boots. At the time of research, the masks and festivals section remained closed for renovation, with reopening tentatively scheduled for 2018. Check with the museum for its current status.

Museo CiusaMUSEUM

(Museo Tribu; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Santa Maria della Neve; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Oct-May)

This recently reopened space has an entire wing devoted to the works of renowned Nuoro-born sculptor Francesco Ciusa. It also houses the permanent collection of Nuoro's excellent art museum, displaying works by the island’s top 20th-century artists, including painters Antonio Ballero, Giovanni Ciusa-Romagna and Mario Delitalia, abstract artist Mauro Manca and sculptor Costantino Nivola.

Monte OrtobeneMOUNTAIN

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 7km east of Nuoro is the granite peak of Monte Ortobene (955m), covered in thick woods of ilex, pine, fir and poplar, and capped by a 7m-high bronze statue of the Redentore (Christ the Redeemer). A favourite picnic spot, the mountain is the focus of Nuoro’s annual Sagra del Redentore festival. On 29 August, the brightly clothed faithful make a pilgrimage here from the cathedral, stopping for Mass at Chiesa di Nostra Signora del Monte, and again under the statue.

The statue was raised in 1901 in response to a call by Pope Leo XIII to raise 19 statues of Christ around Italy to represent the 19 centuries of Christianity. Since then the statue, which shows Christ trampling the devil underfoot, has been an object of devotion for pilgrims who attribute all manner of cures and interventions to it.

The views across the valley to Oliena and Monte Corrasi are at their most breathtaking from the viewpoint near the summit, particularly at dusk when the last light makes the limestone peaks blush pink. To get to the summit by public transport, take local bus 8 from Via A Manzoni in Nuoro.

Museo DeleddianoMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.isresardegna.it; Via Grazia Deledda 44; adult/reduced €3/2; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun)F

Up in the oldest part of town, the birthplace of Grazia Deledda (1871–1936) has been converted into this lovely little museum. The rooms, full of Deledda memorabilia, have been carefully restored to show what a well-to-do 19th-century Nuorese house looked like. Best of all is the material relating to her Nobel Prize – a congratulatory telegram from Italian king Vittorio Emanuele III and photos of the prize-giving ceremony, which show her, proud and tiny, surrounded by a group of stiffly suited men.

Piazza SattaPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This small square is dedicated to the great poet Sebastiano Satta (1867–1914), who was born in a house here. To celebrate the centenary of Satta's birth, sculptor Costantino Nivola gave the square a complete makeover, whitewashing the surrounding houses to provide a blank backdrop for a series of granite sculptures planted in the piazza like menhirs. Each sculpture has a carved niche containing a bronze figurine (a clear wink at Sardinia's prehistoric bronzetti) depicting a character from Satta’s poems.

Chiesa della SolitudineCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Viale della Solitudine)

Nobel Prize–winning author Grazia Deledda (1871–1936) was consumed by Nuoro and its essential dramas. Although she lived 36 of her 65 years in Rome, she was fittingly brought home to be buried in the plain granite church of the Chiesa della Solitudine. You will find her granite sarcophagus to the right of the altar.

Museo Archeologico NazionaleMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museoarcheologiconuoro.beniculturali.it; Via Mannu 1; adult/reduced €2/1; h9am-6.30pm Wed-Sat, plus 1st Sun of month)

This museum presents a romp through the region’s archaeological sites. Finds from the surrounding province range from ancient ceramics and bronzetti to a drilled skull from 1600 BC and Roman and early-medieval artefacts. Anyone with more than a passing interest in nuraghic culture will enjoy the reconstruction of a prehistoric temple and ancient bronze laboratory.

Museo MANGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museoman.it; Via S Satta 27; adult/reduced €5/3, incl Museo Ciusa €6/4; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, to 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Oct-May)

Housed in a restored 19th-century townhouse, this serious contemporary-art gallery hosts a wide range of rotating temporary exhibits.

Cattedrale di Santa Maria della NeveCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Santa Maria della Neve)

A big, dusky peach-coloured wedding cake of a church, the 19th-century Cattedrale di Santa Maria della Neve is one of 300 or so Italian churches dedicated to the Madonna della Neve. The cathedral’s facade is a big flouncing neoclassical spread, giving onto a single-nave interior.

Parco Colle Sant’OnofrioPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sant'Onofrio)

A short wander uphill from the centre of town brings you to the quiet Parco Colle Sant’Onofrio, which commands broad mountain views. From the highest point you can see across to Monte Ortobene and, further south, to Oliena and Orgosolo.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

ANCIENT SITES OF NUORO'S HINTERLAND

North of Nuoro, the forgotten and lonely countryside harbours some wonderful archaeological sites. They’re not easy to get to – even with a car you’ll be wondering where on earth you’re heading – but persevere and you’ll be amply rewarded. Few people make it out here, and there are no better places to experience the mystery and isolation of Sardinia’s silent interior.

Fonte Sacra Su TempiesuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sutempiesu.it; €3; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)

Set in dramatic hill country near the dusty town of Orune, this sophisticated and elegant nuraghic well temple dates from the 2nd millennium BC. Reached by a steadily descending 800m nature trail with signposts offering background on local flora and fauna, the temple has a distinctive keyhole-shaped entrance, with stairs leading down to the well bottom – all oriented in such a way that on the day of the summer, solstice sunlight shines directly down the well shaft.

Complesso Nuragico RomanzesuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; €4; h9.15am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar)

Spread over a 7-hectare site in a thick cork and oak wood, this 17th-century-BC nuraghic sanctuary comprises several religious buildings and circular village huts. The highlight is the sacred well temple, covered by a typical tholos (beehive-shaped dome) and connected to a semi-elliptic amphitheatre. Up to six daily guided tours help visitors make sense of the ruins; most are in Italian but tours in English and German are also offered. It's about 13km northwest of Bitti – follow the road towards Budduso.

zFestivals & Events

Sagra del RedentoreRELIGIOUS

(Festa del Redentore; hAug)

The Sagra del Redentore (Feast of Christ the Redeemer) in the last week of August is Nuoro's main event and one of Sardinia’s most exuberant folkloric festivals, attracting costumed participants from across the island for parades, music-making and dancing. On the evening of 28 August a torchlit procession, starting at the Chiesa della Solitudine, winds its way through the city.

5Eating

The main street is Corso Garibaldi, which bisects a warren of tidy lanes, where you’ll find several restaurants and popular cafes.

La Locanda Pili MonicaTRATTORIA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 3 10 32; Via Brofferio 31; meals €20-25; h12.30-2.45pm & 8.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

It’s all about the food at this friendly, down-to-earth trattoria. Bag a table and you’re in for a treat – think fresh pastas, mains of grilled steak or seafood, and highly quaffable house wine.

oIl PorticoSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 21 76 41, 331 9294119; www.ilporticonuoro.it; Via Monsignor Bua 13; meals €35-45; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun)

You’ll receive a warm welcome at this restaurant, where abstract paintings grace the walls and jazzy music plays. Behind the scenes, the talented Graziano and Vania rustle up a feast of local fare such as spaghetti ai ricci (spaghetti with sea urchins) and fresh gnocchi with lamb ragù. Save room for the delectable caramel-nougat semifreddo.

oAgriturismo TestoneSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %328 3150592, 329 4115168; www.agriturismotestone.com; Via Verdi 49, Testone; meals €30; c)

You'll feel immediately part of la famiglia at this agriturismo, which rests in peaceful solitude in the countryside, 20km northwest of Nuoro. The welcome is heartfelt, mealtimes are cheerful and communal affairs, and the mostly home-grown food is terrific. The farm rears lamb and produces its own formaggi, salumi, honey, sweets, olive oil and wine. Advance reservations are obligatory.

Il RifugioSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 23 23 55; Via Antonio Mereu 28-36; meals €25-35, pizzas €6-10; h12.45-3pm & 7.45-11.30pm Thu-Tue)

One of Nuoro’s most popular eateries, this jovial restaurant has won a faithful following for its creative brand of local cooking. Typical dishes include capretto (roasted kid) with artichokes and pecora alla nuorese con cipolline (Nuoro lamb with onions). And all at very reasonable prices.

MontibluMEDITERRANEAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 23 14 43; www.montiblunuoro.com; Piazza Satta 8; meals €30-40; h1-2.45pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun)

Clean, bright Mediterranean flavours shine through in regional dishes such as tagliata di tonno (sliced tuna steak with rocket and pecorino) at this stylish little restaurant. You can round out a meal in the tea room and stock up on pecorino, salami and preserves in the deli.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Nuoro has a lively cafe scene. Take your pick of the pavement terraces in the historic centre for drinks and light bites.

Caffè Tettamanzi Bar MayoreCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Garibaldi 71; h6am-2am Mon-Sat)

Going strong since 1875, Nuoro’s oldest cafe is something of a local institution. The interior recalls a more glamorous age, with frescoed cherubs, marble tables and a deep velvet sofa where you can read works by Grazia Deledda and poet Sebastiano Satta. Snag a chair outside for crowd-watching and panini.

Bar NuovoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Mazzini 6; h7am-midnight)

Right on Piazza Mazzini, this is an excellent place to park yourself with a cool beer and watch the world go by. It’s equally good for the morning paper, midday gelato and evening aperitivo.

7Shopping

Corso Garibaldi is studded with Italian fashion boutiques, and springs to life with an antiques market on the second Saturday of the month.

Coltelli SardiARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coltellisardi.com; Corso Garibaldi 53; h9am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm)

True to Nuoro’s pastoral heritage (not to mention those dastardly bandits), Franco Piredda crafts exquisite Sardinian knives, including the famous Pattada jackknife with a myrtle-leaf-shaped blade and a handle carved from mouflon or ram horn. They'll set you back between €50 and €750.

8Information

Main Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Crispi; h8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 44 18 23; www.provincia.nuoro.it; Piazza Italia 8; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Fri, plus 3.30-7pm Tue)

Multilingual staff provide plenty of useful information on Nuoro and environs.

8Getting There & Away

The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Viale Sardegna) is west of the centre, as is the train station, which is on Via Lamarmora (the westward extension of Corso Garibaldi).

Bus

ARST (%0784 29 08 00; www.arst.sardegna.it) buses run from the bus station on Viale Sardegna to destinations throughout the province and beyond. These include Dorgali (€2.50, 45 minutes, six daily), Orosei (€3.70, 55 minutes, 10 daily), San Teodoro (€6.10, two hours, five daily), Olbia (€8.10, 2¾ to 3½ hours, three daily) and Tortolì (€5.50, two hours, five daily). There are also regular buses to Oliena (€1.90, 20 minutes) and Orgosolo (€2.50, 35 minutes). Two daily nonstop buses connect with Cagliari (€12.50, 2¾ hours).

Deplano (%0784 29 50 30; www.deplanobus.it) also runs up to five daily buses to Olbia airport (€8.10, 1¾ hours) via San Teodoro (€6.10, 1¼ hours).

For Alghero, Redentours (%0784 3 03 25; www.redentours.com) has two daily buses (€18, 2¼ hours), for which bookings are required.

Car & Motorcycle

The dual-carriage SS131dcn highway skirts Nuoro to the north, running between Olbia and Abbasanta (where it joins the north–south SS131 Carlo Felice highway). The SS129 is the quickest road east to Orosei and Dorgali. Other roads head south for Oliena, Orgosolo and Mamoiada.

Train

The train station is west of the town centre on the corner of Via Lamarmora and Via G Ciusa Romagna. ARST operates trains from Nuoro to Macomer (€4.90, 70 minutes, six daily Monday to Saturday), where you can connect with mainline Trenitalia trains to Cagliari (from Macomer €11, 1½ to 2¼ hours, eight daily).

8Getting Around

Local ATP (%0784 3 51 95; www.atpnuoro.it) buses 2 and 3 can be useful for the train station and the ARST bus station, and bus 8 from Via Manzoni for heading up to Monte Ortobene (€1.50). Tickets for city routes cost €1 and are valid for 90 minutes.

You can call for a taxi (%368 7187232) or try to grab one along Via Lamarmora.

DON'T MISS

EASTERN SARDINIA'S TOP CLIMBS

Maurizio Oviglia's comprehensive Pietra di Luna (€50) climbing guide, available in local bookshops and online, is a useful resource.

ACala Fuili Easily accessible bay and good for beginners, with 190 routes from 5a to 8b+, including cliffs above the beach and scores of overhangs in the gorge for all tastes and exposures.

ALa Poltrona A massive limestone amphitheatre close to central gCala Gonone, with compact rock, 75 bolted routes from grades 4 to 8a and a maximum height of 175m. Mornings get too hot here in summer, so wait until late afternoon.

ACala Luna Fabulous climbing above a beautiful bay, accessed on a two-hour coastal walk from Cala Gonone or by boat. The 57 routes ranging from 5c and 8b+ include some tricky single-pitches in limestone caves with overhangs. Bonus: the rock faces are in the shade most of the day.

AHotel Supramonte Part of the fun is arriving at this breathtakingly sheer 400m cliff face, which is at the narrowest point of the Gola Su Gorropu canyon. A tough 8b multipitch climb, this is one best left to climbers with plenty of experience under their belts.

AS’atta Ruia A Dorgali favourite, consisting of a long limestone cliff with vertical walls and overhangs. There are 81 routes from grades 5a to 7b. Climb in the morning for shade.

ABiddiriscottai Just before the bay of Cartoe, Biddiriscottai has a stunning mountain setting with dramatic sea views. The sea cliffs and crags rise above a cave. Technical climbing on 50 well-bolted routes ranging from 5b to 8a+.

AUlassai Climbers have a high time of it in Ulassai. The sheer rock faces of the Bruncu Pranedda canyon and the Lecori cliffs provide some 80 routes, including a number of pretty tough ascents.

AAguglia This pinnacle towering above Cala Goloritzè is a superb introduction to multipitch climbing. The real challenge is the overhang – the toughest move is a 6b+.

AVascone (big pool) South of Cala ‘e Luas, this is ideal for deep-water soloing (DWS), with lots of gorgeous granite to play on.

AIsili Famous for its crags and overhangs, Isili is also a magnet for serious rock climbers, with 250 single-pitch sports routes ranging from 5a to 8b.

Barbagia

Sardinia’s geographic and spiritual heartland is a tough, mountainous area known as the Barbagia. The name derives from the Latin term ‘Barbaria’ (itself derived from the Greek word barbaros – foreign person, barbarian), which the Romans gave the area after repeatedly failing to subdue it. The dramatic topography and tough-as-hobnail-boots locals kept the legionaries out, just as they have since kept the outside world at arm’s length with their fierce inward-looking pride. Sardinian dialects are widely spoken in the Barbagia villages, traditional Sardinian music and Sardinian-language news are still broadcast on Radio Barbagia (FM103), and age-old festivities are celebrated with fervour. It’s not uncommon to see older women walking down the street wearing traditional black vestments.

At the region’s heart are the bald, windswept peaks of the Gennargentu massif, including Sardinia's highest mountain, Punta La Marmora (1834m) – and the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu, Sardinia’s largest national park.

Orgosolo

%0784 / Pop 4230

High in the brooding mountains, Orgosolo is Sardinia’s most notorious town, its name long a byword for the banditry and violence that blighted this part of the island for so long. More recently the town has attempted, with some success, to reinvent itself as an alternative tourist attraction. Nowadays, it’s not unusual to see visitors walking down the main strip photographing the vibrant graffiti-style murals that adorn the village’s buildings. But once the day-trippers have gone, the villagers come out to reclaim their streets – the old boys to sit staring at anyone they don’t recognise and the lads with crewcuts to race up and down in their mud-splattered cars.

1Sights

Five kilometres to the south of the town, the SP48 local road heads up to the Montes heights, where cows, sheep and goats graze freely on communal land with a splendid mountain backdrop. Another 13km south is the Funtana Bona, the spring at the source of the Cedrino river. On the way you pass through the tall holm oaks of the Foresta de Montes.

Corso RepubblicaAREA

( GOOGLE MAP )

WWII, the creation of the atomic bomb, the miners strikes of the Iglesiente, the evils of capitalism, women’s liberation – Orgosolo is a giant canvas for emotionally charged graffiti. The majority of murals line the main thoroughfare, Corso Repubblica, and were initiated by Professor Francesco del Casino in 1975 as a school project to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Liberation of Italy. There are now some 200 murals, many of them executed by Casino. Other notable artists include Pasquale Buesca and Vincenzo Floris.

The styles vary wildly according to the artists: some are naturalistic, others are like cartoons, and some, such as those on the Fotostudio Kikinu, are wonderfully reminiscent of Picasso. Like satirical caricatures, they depict all the big political events of the 20th and 21st centuries and vividly document the struggle of the underdog in the face of a powerful, and sometimes corrupt, establishment. Italy’s own political failings are writ large, including the corruption of the Cassa del Mezzogiorno and Prime Minister Giulio Andreotti’s trials for collusion with the Mafia, where speech bubbles mock his court refrain of ‘I don’t remember’. Even more interesting are the murals depicting recent events. On the corner of Via Monni there are portrayals of the destruction of the two World Trade Center towers (dated 28 September 2001) and the fall of Baghdad (dated 17 April 2003).

South of Corso Repubblica, the corner of Via Morti di Bugerru and Via Gramsci is festooned with colourful depictions of revolutionary fighter Che Guevara and the fathers of Communism: Marx, Engels and Lenin.

For a self-guided tour of the murals, get a multilingual audio guide from Orgosolo's tourist office.

DON'T MISS

BARBAGIA'S VILLAGE FESTIVALS

Shrove Tuesday in OttanaCARNIVAL

The village of Ottana, near the geographic centre of Sardinia, is home to some of the island's most dramatic carnival celebrations, rivalling those of Mamoiada. Shrove Tuesday festivities here culminate in a parade of costumed boes (men masked as cattle) herded down the streets by their masters, the merdules (masked men symbolising our prehistoric ancestors).

Festa dell'Incoronazione della Madonna di GonareRELIGIOUS

Horse races, singing and dancing mark this lively religious festival, held every year between 5 and 8 September at the important pilgrimage site of Santuario di Nostra Signora di Gonare, a grey buttressed 17th-century church sitting atop a lone conical hill east of the village of Sarule, near the foot of 1083m Monte Gonare.

Sagra del TorroneFOOD & DRINK

Forget Easter eggs: on Easter Monday, Tonara (in the Barbargia di Belvi region) gorges on the region's deliciously nutty local torrone (nougat).

zFestivals & Events

Festa dell’AssuntaRELIGIOUS

(h15 Aug)

You’ll catch Orgosolo at its best during the Festa dell’Assunta (Feast of the Assumption) on 15 August, when folk from all around the Barbagia converge on the town for one of the region’s most colourful processions.

5Eating

Corso Repubblica has a few inexpensive cafes and pizzerias.

Cortile del FormaggioDELI€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 9289415; www.facebook.com/ilcortiledelformaggioorgosolo; Corso Repubblica 216; h10am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri May-Sep)

The Cortile del Formaggio is a tiny courtyard house where you can buy fresh, smoked and roasted varieties of fiore sardo – Sardinian pecorino made from raw ewe’s milk and matured for a minimum of three months.

Il PorticoPIZZA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 40 29 29; www.ristoranteorgosolo.it; Via Giovanni XXIII 34; pizza €4-7, meals €15-20; hnoon-3pm daily, 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat)

An excellent pizzeria/restaurant serving flavoursome pizzas and superb local vegetables and meats, such as cinghiale in umido (wild boar stew) with olives. The airy dining room and friendly, smiling service add to the pleasure.

Ai Monti del GennargentuAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 40 23 74; http://aimontidelgennargentu.todosmart.net; Località Settiles; meals €35; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Easter-Sep)

For a memorable meal in pastoral surroundings, climb to this charming white farmhouse on the high Montes plateau (6km south of Orgosolo). Meals start with appetisers of home-cured meats, pecorino cheese and vegetables, followed by homemade pasta and Sardinia's classic porcetto (spit-roast suckling pig garnished with myrtle leaves). For dessert don't miss the seadas (cheese-filled fried dough drizzled with honey).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %393 9044056; scopriorgosolo@gmail.com; Piazza Caduti, Guerra; h10.30am-6.30pm)

Has a multilingual audio guide to Orgosolo's murals.

8Getting There & Away

Regular buses make the run to/from Nuoro (€2.50, 35 minutes, six daily Monday to Saturday, three on Sunday). With your own vehicle, it's a 30-minute drive via the SP58.

WORTH A TRIP

MUSEO NIVOLA

Museo NivolaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museonivola.it; Via Gonare 2, Orani; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Thu-Tue)

The main reason to make a stop in the grey, sleepy village of Orani is the Museo Nivola. This museum celebrates the original sculpture and sand-casting techniques of Costantino Nivola, the son of a local stonemason, who fled Sardinia under Fascist persecution in 1938 and subsequently spent most of his life working in America.

Mamoiada

%0784 / Pop 2560

Just 14km south of Nuoro, the small stone-and-stucco village of Mamoiada stages Sardinia’s most compelling carnival celebrations.

Mamuthones wearing shaggy sheepskins and beastly wooden masks run riot in Mamoiada during February’s carnival festivities. If you can’t be here then, you can get an idea of what it’s all about at the Museo delle Maschere Mediterranee. The exhibit includes a multimedia presentation and garbed mannequins wearing the famous sheepskins.

There are a couple of shops in the village selling the wooden masks worn by the mamuthones. Don’t expect to pay less than €100 for a good one.

1Sights

Museo delle Maschere MediterraneeMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museodellemaschere.it; Piazza Europa 15; adult/reduced €5/3; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm)

Get a firsthand feel for Mamoida's carnival at this small but engaging museum. The three-part exhibit starts with a film that allows you to vicariously experience carnival preparations such as the making of masks and bells, followed by the processions and bonfires that mark the big day itself. The second room displays masks and costumes from three traditional Sardinian carnivals (Mamoiada, Ovoda and Ottana), while the third room focuses on carnival attire from throughout the Alpine and Mediterranean regions.

zFestivals & Events

oFesta di Sant'Antonio AbateCARNIVAL

(hmid-Jan)

Bonfires rage throughout Mamoiada for two nights starting on 16 January as half-human, half-animal mamuthones parade through the streets – clad in sheepskins and shaking heavy bells – accompanied by white-masked, red-jacketed issohadores who go about town lassoing young women. This is one of Sardinia's most characteristic festivals, with deep pagan roots.

5Eating

Locanda Sa RosadaSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 5 67 13, 320 2306462; www.sarosada.com; Piazza Europa 2; meals €25-35; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Thu-Tue)

The perfect lunch stop after a visit to Mamoiada's mask museum, this Slow Food–recommended eatery has a pretty stone courtyard overhung with vines and a stone-vaulted interior dining room. The menus, built around seasonal produce, change regularly, but perennial standouts include Sa Rosada's roast meats, culurgiones (pasta pouches stuffed with pecorino, mint and potatoes) and locally produced Cannonau wine.

8Getting There & Away

Infrequent ARST buses connect with Nuoro (€1.90, 20 minutes, five daily Monday to Saturday, one Sunday). By car, it's an easy 20-minute shot up to Nuoro via the SS389var.

CARNIVAL IN MAMOIADA

Mamoiada's carnival festivities kick off with the Festa di Sant’Antonio on 16 and 17 January. According to myth, Sant’Antonio stole fire from hell to give to humankind, and to commemorate the fact, bonfires are lit across the village. But more than the fireworks, it’s the appearance of the mamuthones, the costumed characters for which the village is famous, that gives the festival its sinister edge. These monstrous figures re-emerge on Shrove Tuesday and the preceding Sunday for the main Carnevale celebrations. Up to 200 men don shaggy brown sheepskins and primitive wooden masks to take on the form of the mamuthones. Weighed down by up to 30kg of campanacci (cowbells), they make a frightening spectacle. Anthropologists believe that the mamuthones embodied all the untold horrors that rural people feared, and that the ritual parade was an attempt to exorcise these demons before the new spring. The mamuthones are walked on a long leash held by the issohadores, dressed in the guise of outmoded gendarmes, whose job it is to drive them out of town.

Gavoi

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Famous for its fiore sardo (Sardinian pecorino cheese) and literature festival, Gavoi is one of Barbagia’s prettier villages. It has a pristine historic centre, with a small web of narrow lanes hemmed in by attractive stone houses. Three kilometres to the south, Lago di Gusana shimmers amid thick woods of cork, ilex and oak.

1Sights & Activities

A popular fishing spot, the lake and surrounding countryside provide plenty of sporting opportunities.

Chiesa di San GavinoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP )

In Gavoi village centre, the Chiesa di San Gavino was built in the 16th century to a Gothic-Catalan design, as evidenced by the plain red trachyte facade and splendid rose window. From the piazza outside the church, cobbled alleyways lead up through the medieval borgo (village).

Barbagia No LimitsADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 182 03 73; www.barbagianolimits.it; Via Cagliari 186)

Barbagia No Limits is a local operator that can organise a whole range of outdoor activities, including trekking, kayaking, canyoning, caving and jeep tours.

zFestivals & Events

L'Isola delle StorieCULTURAL

(www.isoladellestorie.it; hearly Jul)

A rare success story, L’Isola delle Storie has gone from strength to strength since it was inaugurated in 2003. For four days in early July, the village of Gavoi is transformed into an outdoor stage, hosting readings, concerts, theatrical performances, screenings and seminars.

5Eating

oRistorante Santa RugheSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 5 37 74; www.santarughe.it; Via Carlo Felice 2; meals €20-35; h12.45-2.30pm & 7.45-10.30pm Thu-Tue)

Up in the village proper, this rustic restaurant serves hearty local fare such as roast veal, grilled pork chops and gnocchetti with saffron, mint and fresh ricotta. Also worth inquiring about (though not always on the menu) is su erbuzzu, a heart-warming soup of bacon, sausage, cheese and beans flavoured with wild herbs. Pizzas (evenings only) are also excellent.

8Getting There & Away

ARST has a bus stop on Via Roma, just north of the medieval centre; there are four weekday connections to Nuoro (€3.10, 70 minutes) and one on Sunday. With your own wheels, it's a 40-minute drive.

Fonni

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At 1000m Fonni is the highest town in Sardinia and has a sizeable rural community. It’s also a popular base for hikers, who come to explore Sardinia’s highest peaks – the Bruncu Spina (1829m) and the Punta La Marmora (1834m).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

PEAK BAGGER

It’s relatively easy to reach Sardinia’s two highest peaks from either Fonni or Desulo. You’ll find the turn-off for the Bruncu Spina trailhead 5km out of Fonni, on the road to Desulo. From here a 10km road winds through treeless territory to the base of a ski lift. One kilometre before the lift you’ll see a steep dirt trail to the right, from where a 3km track leads right to the summit (1829m). From here you have broad, sweeping views across the island in all directions. If you’re here in winter, there’s some modest skiing on these slopes, and a daily lift pass and ski hire costs around €30. For details, see www.bruncuspina.com (in Italian).

For a view from 5m higher you need to march about 1½ hours south to Punta La Marmora (1834m). Although it looks easy enough from Bruncu Spina, you need a good walking map or a guide, as well as sufficient water in summer.

1Sights

From Fonni, a scenic country road (SP7) wriggles south through parkland and oak forests, with grandiose views of limestone peaks rising out of deeply folded valleys. After 25km you hit Desulo, a long string of a town that was once three separate villages. There’s nothing much to see, but like Fonni it provides a good base for hikers, given its proximity to the Gennargentu.

Basilica Santa Maria dei MartiriBASILICA

( GOOGLE MAP ; off Piazza Europa)

At Fonni's highest point is the imposing 17th-century Basilica della Madonna dei Martiri, one of Barbagia's most important baroque churches. Surrounded by cumbessias (pilgrims’ huts), it’s famous for a revered image of the Madonna that’s said to be made from the crushed bones of martyrs. In June it's the focus of Fonni’s two main feast days, the Festa della Madonna dei Martiri on the Monday after the first Sunday in June and the Festa di San Giovanni on 24 June.

5Eating

Ristorante Albergo Il CinghialettoSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 5 76 60; www.ilcinghialetto.it; Via Grazia Deledda 193; pizza €5-10, meals €25-30; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun)

Down in the modern part of the village is this simple, friendly pick, dishing up meaty Sardinian fare and pizza. An open fire keeps things toasty in winter.

8Getting There & Away

ARST buses run from Nuoro to Fonni (€3.10, 40 minutes, eight daily Monday to Saturday, two Sunday). With your own car, the same journey takes only 30 minutes.

Aritzo

A vivacious mountain retreat, Aritzo has been attracting visitors since the 19th century. Its cool climate and alpine character (its elevation is 796m) caught the imagination of the Piedmontese nobility, who came here to hunt boar in its forests. There are plenty of marked walking trails around the village, most of which are fine to walk along alone.

The lucrative business of snow gathering put Aritzo on the map. For some five centuries the village held a monopoly on snow collection and supplied the whole of Sardinia with ice. Snow farmers, known as niargios, collected the white stuff from Punta di Funtana Cungiada (1458m) and stored it in straw-lined wooden chests before sending it off to the high tables of Cagliari.

1Sights

Ecomuseo della Montagna Sarda e del GennargentuMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Parco Comunale Pastissu; incl Sa Bovida €3; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, to 6pm Oct-May)

Newly expanded and relocated to Aritzo's town park in 2016, this ethnographic museum has rooms full of tools and artefacts from the rural, mountainous Gennargentu region.

Sa BovidaHISTORIC BUILDING

(Prigione Spagnola; GOOGLE MAP ; Via Guglielmo Marconi; incl Ecomuseo della Montagna Sarda €3; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, to 6pm Oct-May)

Just off the main drag is this chilling 16th-century prison, built of dark grey schist stone and used as a maximum-security facility right up until 1936. New prisoners, duly manacled, were lowered into the lone cell through a hole in the ceiling, which you can observe from above and below during the brief tour.

zFestivals & Events

Sagra della CarapignaFOOD & DRINK

(hAug)

This two-day mid-August festival celebrates Aritzo's famous carapigna, a tangy lemon sorbet with origins dating back to the early days of commercial ice production in the surrounding mountains.

Sagra delle CastagneFOOD & DRINK

(hOct)

On the last Sunday of October, people crowd Aritzo's streets to sample chestnuts, live music and shows.

8Getting There & Away

Aritzo is on the SS295, about 90 minutes south of Nuoro. There are some limited ARST bus services to neighbouring towns, but you'll need your own vehicle to do any serious exploring.

WORTH A TRIP

SORGONO

As much for the getting there as the being there, Sorgono rewards a detour. Deep in the heart of the Mandrolisai, the remote hilly area to the west of the Gennargentu, the village is surrounded by vineyards and huge tracts of forest, full of ilex, cork, chestnut and hazel trees. In town, the Cantina del Mandrolisai ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 6 01 13; www.cantinadelmandrolisai.com; Corso IV Novembre 20; h8am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) is one of the area’s most important wine producers.

Make a point of trying the local Mandrolisai DOC, a well-regarded red made from Cannonau, Muristeddu and Monica grapes.

Sorgono is a twisty 35-minute drive north from Aritzo via the SS295, or a 1¼-hour drive south from Nuoro via the SS131dcn. ARST also runs occasional buses from Sorgono to Aritzo (€2.50, 45 minutes) and Nuoro (€4.90, 1¾ hours).

From late June through early September, train enthusiasts can catch the trenino verde through the wine country between Sorgono and Mandas (€16, four hours).

Sarcidano

Southwest of Aritzo the rugged mountains flatten out to the broad Sarcidano plain, littered with nuraghi and other mysterious prehistoric sites.

Laconi

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Straddling the SS128 as it twists south, Laconi is a low-key mountain town, with a slow pace of life and views of green, rolling countryside. Its cobbled lanes hide a few attractions, including an intriguing archaeological museum and a castle-topped woodland park.

1Sights

Menhir MuseumMUSEUM

(Museo della Statuaria Preistorica in Sardegna; GOOGLE MAP ; www.menhirmuseum.it; Palazzo Aymerich, Piazza Marconi 10; adult/reduced €5/3; h10am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & 3.30-6pm Oct-Mar)

Occupying an elegant 19th-century palazzo, this delightful museum exhibits a collection of 40 menhirs (billed as the largest such collection in the Mediterranean region). Taken from sites across the surrounding area, these stark anthropomorphic slabs are strangely compelling. Little is known of their function, but it’s thought that they were connected with prehistoric funerary rites. In the backlit gloom they appear all the more mysterious, the shadows emphasising the faded sculptural relief that suggests whether they are ‘male’ or ‘female’.

If you find this interesting, you may want to detour to Pranu Mutteddu, 56km further south, where you can see them in situ.

Parco AymerichPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-8pm summer, to 4pm winter)

Turn left off Via Sant’Ignazio to reach this smashing 22-hectare park, noted for sheltering Sardinia's widest variety of native orchid species. Among the exotic trees (including an impressive cedar of Lebanon and several eucalyptuses), springs, lakes and grottoes, you’ll find the remains of an 11th-century castle, the Castello Aymerich. From here you have wonderful views across the park and the greenery surrounding Laconi.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 86 70 13; Palazzo Aymerich, Piazza Marconi; h9am-1pm Tue-Fri)

Laconi's tourist office, inside Palazzo Aymerich in the heart of town, keeps limited hours. When it's closed you can get tourist info at the adjacent Menhir Museum.

8Getting There & Away

With your own vehicle, Laconi is an hour from Oristano (via the SS442) or 1¾ hours from Nuoro (via Ghilarza on the SS131dcn).

Bus services to Laconi are fairly limited. There are daily connections with Isili (€1.90, 25 to 35 minutes), Aritzo (€2.50, 40 minutes), and Oristano (€4.30, 1¾ hours). Most run very early in the morning or in the late afternoon.

On Sundays in summer, the trenino verde calls in here on its way north from Mandas (€12, 1½ hours). The station is about 1km west of the town centre.

South of Laconi

1Sights

Santuario Santa VittoriaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €4/2, incl Nuraghe Arrubiu & Prano Mutteddu €10/5; h9.30am-sunset)

Beyond the small village of Serri, the Santuario Santa Vittoria is one of Sardinia's most important nuraghic settlements. It was first studied in 1907 and later excavated in 1962. What you see today is divided roughly into three zones. The central area, the Recinto delle Riunioni (Meeting Area), is a unique enclave thought to have been the seat of civil power. A grand oval space is ringed by a wall within which are towers and various rooms.

Beyond it is the religious area, which includes a Tempietto a Pozzo (Well Temple), a second temple, a structure thought to have been the Capanna del Sacerdote (Priest’s Hut), defensive trenches, and a much later addition, the Chiesa di Santa Vittoria, a little country church after which the whole site is now named. Separated from both areas is the Casa del Capo (Chief’s House), so-called perhaps because it is the most intact habitation, with walls still up to 3m high. Finally, a separate area, made up of several circular dwellings, is thought to have been the main residential quarter. Still, only four of about 22 hectares have been fully uncovered.

Santuario Santa Vittoria is at the end of a scenic road (on one side you look over La Giara di Gesturi, on the other the land rises up towards the Gennargentu).

Pranu MuttedduARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.pranumuttedu.com; adult/reduced €5/3, incl Nuraghe Arrubiu & Santuario Santa Vittoria €10/5; h8.30am-8pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr)

Near the village of Goni, Pranu Mutteddu is a unique funerary site dating to the neolithic Ozieri culture (between the 3rd and 4th millennia BC). The site is dominated by a series of domus de janas (literally ‘fairy houses’; tombs cut into rock) and some 50 menhirs, 20 of them lined up east to west, presumably in symbolic reflection of the sun’s trajectory. The scene is reminiscent of similar sites in Corsica and is unique in Sardinia.

Pranu Mutteddu is a 20km drive east of Senorbì and the SS128, close to the tiny village of Goni. The website pinpoints its exact location.

Nuraghe Is ParasARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 80 26 41; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-1pm & 3pm-sunset Apr-Oct; by arrangement Nov-Mar)

About 20km south of Laconi, by the sports centre in Isili, the Nuraghe Is Paras is notable for its striking tholos (beehive-shaped cone), which at 11.8m is the highest in Sardinia.

Nuraghe ArrubiuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %346 6544747, 0782 84 72 69; www.nuraghearrubiu.it; adult/reduced €4/2, incl Santuario Santa Vittoria & Prano Mutteddu €10/5; h9.30am-sunset)

Rising out of the Sarcidano plain, about 10km south of Orroli and off the SP10, is the Nuraghe Arrubiu, which takes its Sardinian name from the red colour of the trachyte stone. This impressive structure, centred on a robust tower, now about 16m high, is thought to have once reached 30m. Surrounding it is a five-tower defensive perimeter and the remains of an outer wall and settlement. The artefacts found here indicate that the Romans made good use of it.

8Getting There & Away

You'll need your own vehicle to reach the area's archaeological sites. From Laconi, the SS128 leads south towards Is Paras (18km), Santa Vittoria (30km) and Pranu Mutteddu (56km). For Nuraghe Arrubiu (45km), take the SP52.

Golfo di Orosei

For sheer stop-dead-in-your-tracks beauty, there’s no place like this gulf, forming the seaward section of the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parcogennargentu.it). Here the high mountains of the Gennargentu abruptly meet the sea, forming a crescent of dramatic cliffs riven by false inlets, scattered with horseshoe-shaped bays and lapped by exquisitely aquamarine waters. Beach space is at a premium in summer, but there’s room for everyone, especially in the rugged, elemental hinterland.

DON'T MISS

SELVAGGIO BLU

For serious hikers, the Selvaggio Blu ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.selvaggioblu.it) is the stuff of myth: an epic seven-day, 45km trek along the Golfo di Orosei’s wild and imperious coastline, traversing thickly wooded ravines and taking in bizarre limestone formations, caves and staggeringly sheer cliffs. Both the scenery and the walking are breathtaking (in every sense of the word!) on what is often hailed as Italy’s toughest trek.

The trail follows the starkly eroded – and often invisible – trails of goatherds and charcoal burners, teetering around cliffs that plunge into the dazzlingly blue sea. Because of its challenging terrain, the trek requires a good level of fitness and some climbing experience for the short climbs and abseiling involved. The seven-day duration is based on the assumption that you will walk six to eight hours a day. You’ll also need to come prepared with a bivi bag or an ultralight tent, climbing gear (including two 45m ropes), a roll mat, sturdy boots, a compass, map and ample food.

A guide is recommended as the trail is not well signposted and there’s no water en route (guides can arrange for it to be dropped off by boat). The website www.selvaggioblu.it (in Italian) will give you itchy feet.

The author of Arrampicare a Cala Gonone (€18) and Il Sentiero Selvaggio Blu (€16), Corrado Conca ( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 2903101; www.corradoconca.it; Via Barzini 15, Sassari) is Sardinia’s hiking and climbing guru, and a brilliant guide for the trek. Bank on paying around €500 per person. Corrado is often up in the hills climbing, so give him plenty of notice.

Cala Gonone

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Climbers, divers, sea kayakers, beachcombers and hikers all find their thrill in Cala Gonone. Why? Just look around you: imperious limestone peaks frame grandstand views of the Golfo di Orosei, sheer cliffs dip into the brilliant-blue sea, trails wriggle through emerald-green ravines to pearly-white beaches. It is quite magnificent. Even getting here is an adventure, with each hairpin bend bringing you ever closer to a sea that spreads out before you like a giant liquid mirror.

Gathered along a pine-shaded promenade, this seaside resort still has the low-key, family-friendly vibe of the small fishing village it once was. August aside, the beaches tend to be uncrowded and the room rates affordable. Bear in mind that the resort slumbers in winter, closing from October until Easter.

DON'T MISS

THE BLUE CRESCENT

If you do nothing else in Sardinia, you should try to make an excursion along the 20km southern stretch of the Golfo di Orosei by boat. Intimidating limestone cliffs plunge headlong into the sea, scalloped by pretty beaches, coves and grottoes. With an ever-changing palette of sand, rocks, pebbles, seashells and crystal-clear water, the unfathomable forces of nature have conspired to create a sublime taste of paradise. The colours are at their best until about 3pm, when the sun starts to drop behind the higher cliffs.

From the port of Cala Gonone you head south to the Grotta del Bue Marino. The first beach after the cave is Cala Luna, a crescent-shaped strand closed off by high cliffs to the south. Cala Sisine ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the next beach of any size, also a mix of sand and pebbles and backed by a deep, verdant valley. Cala Biriola ( GOOGLE MAP ) quickly follows, and then several enchanting spots where you can bob below the soaring cliffs – look out for the patches of celestial-blue water.

Cala Mariolu ( GOOGLE MAP ) is arguably one of the most sublime spots on the coast. Split in two by a cluster of bright limestone rocks, it has virtually no sand. Don’t let the smooth white pebbles put you off, though. The water that laps these beaches ranges from a kind of transparent white at water’s edge through every shade of light and sky blue and on to a deep purplish hue.

1Sights

Cala Gonone is the perfect launchpad for exploring the gulf's most alluring bays, which are scattered like horseshoes along the coast. The fact that the best beaches and grottoes can only be reached by hiking or dropping anchor gives them added castaway appeal.

Cala FuiliBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 3.5km south of town (follow Viale del Bue Marino) is this captivating rocky inlet backed by a deep green valley. From here you can hike over the cliff tops to Cala Luna, about two hours (4km) away on foot. The trail cuts a scenic path through juniper and mastic trees and is easy to navigate, with triangle-circle symbols marking handy rocks. The coastal views are breathtaking as you approach Cala Luna.

Grotta del Bue MarinoCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €8/5; hguided tours hourly 10am-noon & 3-5pm summer, 11am-3pm winter, groups only Oct-Mar)

It’s a scenic 40-minute hike from Cala Fuili, or a speedy boat ride from Cala Gonone, to this enchanting grotto. It was the last island refuge of the rare monk seal (‘bue marino’ or ‘sea ox’ as it was known by local fishermen). The watery gallery is impressive, with shimmering light playing on the strange shapes and Neolithic petroglyphs within the cave. Guided visits take place up to seven times a day. In peak season you may need to book.

Cala LunaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

A favourite with rock climbers, this wildly beautiful crescent-shaped bay is backed by a lush ravine, framed by cave-pitted cliffs and pummelled by exquisite turquoise waters. Access is by foot or boat only. Linger after the tour boats have gone and you’ll pretty much have the bay to yourself. If your navigation skills are good, you could continue along a tough, unmarked trail to the striking Arco Lupiru rock arch (4km; around 1½ hours) or Cala Sisine (11km; four hours).

Wild camping on the beaches is not permitted, but the authorities have been known to turn a blind eye to discreet campers.

Nuraghe MannuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €3/2; h9am-noon & 5-8pm Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 4-7pm May, Jun & Sep, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Apr & Oct)

To get an eagle-eye view over the coast, follow the signs off the Cala Gonone–Dorgali road to this nuraghe. After 3km the rocky track peters out at a wild headland where you can see nearly the entire curve of the gulf. The location is romantic, set above a lush gorge and with silver-grey blocks strewn beneath the olive trees. First inhabited around 1600 BC, the tower is a modest ruin, but you can still see niches in the central chamber.

The Romans took a shine to the nuraghe, and looking at the traces of former dwellings, you can contrast the geometric forms made by the Romans with the elliptical shapes made by their predecessors.

Acquario di Cala GononeAQUARIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.acquariocalagonone.it; Via La Favorita; adult/reduced €10/6.50; h10am-6pm daily May-Sep, Wed-Sun Apr-Oct)

Check out the local marine life before taking the plunge at this shiny new aquarium, designed by architects Peter Chermayeff and Sebastiano Gaias. The 25 tanks bubble with seahorses, jellyfish, rays and – moving into more tropical waters – clownfish and anemones.

Spiaggia Sos DorrolesBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 1km south of Cala Gonone, backed by a striking yellow-orange rock wall, Spiaggia Sos Dorroles is one of the prettiest spots near town for splashing around in the aquamarine sea.

Spiaggia PalmaseraBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Just south of Cala Gonone, this narrow sandy strip is interrupted by rocky stretches (watch out for sea urchins).

Spiaggia CentraleBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

In town, the small shingle Spiaggia Centrale is good for a quick dip, though the finest beaches lie further south.

2Activities

La PoltronaCLIMBING

( GOOGLE MAP )

This massive limestone amphitheatre close to Cala Gonone has compact rock and 75 bolted routes from grades 4 to 8a. Mornings get too hot here in summer, so wait until late afternoon.

Prima SardegnaADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 33 67; www.primasardegna.com; Viale Lungomare Palmasera 32; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm summer)

Prima Sardegna arranges guided excursions to Tiscali and Gorropu (€45), as well as hikes and 4WD tours in the Supramonte. Daily bike/scooter/single kayak/double kayak rental costs €30/48/36/65 respectively. Mini-cruises along the Golfo di Orosei cost between €35 and €45.

DolmenADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 6698192; www.sardegnadascoprire.it; Piazza del Porto 3)

Dolmen is a reliable operator running 4WD tours into the Supramonte, canyoning excursions to the Gorropu and boat trips to the Grotta del Bue Marino and other points along the gulf. Bikes, scooters and dinghies are also available for hire. Call ahead for times and prices.

ArgonautaDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347 5304097; www.argonauta.it; cnr Viale del Bue Marino & Via dell'Erica)

PADI-accredited, Argonauta offers a range of water-based activities, including snorkelling tours (€40 adults, €35 kids), scuba-diving taster sessions (€65), cavern and wreck dives (€80 to €95) and canyoning excursions (€50). It also runs PADI Bubblemaker courses for children (€65).

TTours

Nuovo Consorzio Trasporti MarittimiBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 33 05; www.calagononecrociere.it; Piazza del Porto 1)

This outfit offers tours including return trips to Cala Luna (€15), Cala Sisine (€22), Cala Mariolu (€30) and Cala Gabbiani (€30). A trip to the Grotta del Bue Marino costs €20, including entry to the cave. All tours are €5 to €10 more in July and August. See the website for timetables.

CielomarBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 92 00 14; www.cielomar.it; Piazza del Porto 6)

This outfit runs day-long tours along the gulf, costing from €35 to €55 per person, as well as hiring out gommoni (motorised dinghies) for €80 to €250 per day, excluding petrol, which usually costs an extra €25 or so.

5Eating

There are plenty of snack bars, gelaterias and pizzerias on or near the waterfront. Most places close from November to March.

Gelateria FancelloGELATO€

( GOOGLE MAP ; Viale Lungomare Palmasera 26; ice cream from €2; h2-10.30pm)

Hazelnut, fig, yoghurt and lemon – the gelati and sorbetti here are the real deal. Stop by for a cone to lick as you stroll the promenade.

oAgriturismo Nuraghe MannuSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 32 64; www.agriturismonuraghemannu.com; off the SP26/Dorgali-Cala Gonone Rd; meals €26; hdinner from 8pm)

Scenically perched above the gulf and nestled amid silvery olive groves, this agriturismo puts on a mouthwatering spread. Loosen a belt notch for a feast of home-produced pecorino, salami, olives and wine, followed by handmade pasta, succulent roast kid or lamb and (phew!) Sardinian sweets.

Il PescatoreSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 31 74; www.ristoranteilpescatorecalagonone.com; Via Acqua Dolce 7; meals €30-45; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm; c)

Fresh seafood is what this authentic place is about. Sit on the terrace for sea breezes and fishy delights, such as pasta with ricci (sea urchins) and spaghetti with clams and bottarga (mullet roe). It also does a kids' menu (€15).

La FavoritaITALIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 31 69; www.facebook.com/lafavoritacalagonone; Viale Lungomare Palmasera 30; pizzas €6-10, meals €25-35; h12.15-3pm & 7-11pm)

There's always a good buzz at this incredibly popular restaurant and pizzeria with a lovely sea-facing terrace. Snag a table to dig into excellent wood-oven pizzas, or go for fish dishes including ceviche with lemon, chilli and sweet potato and whatever is the catch that day.

7Shopping

NamasteBOOKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; Viale Colombo 11; h6.30am-1pm & 4-8pm)

For trekking and climbing maps and guides, check out Namaste. It stocks Maurizio Oviglia's Pietra di Luna (€50), a comprehensive rock-climbing guide covering the Cala Gonone, Jerzu and Baunei areas; Corrado Conca's Arrampicare a Cala Gonone (€20) and Sentiero Selvaggio Blu (€17), covering the stunning seven-day Selvaggio Blu hike; and La Sardegna in Bicicletta (€13.90) detailing 1000km of cycling routes.

You can also pick up walking maps and travel guides here.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 36 96; www.dorgali.it; Viale del Bue Marino 1a; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm May-Sep, to 1pm Oct-Apr)

A very helpful office in the small park off to the right as you enter town.

8Getting There & Away

Buses run to Cala Gonone from Dorgali (€1.30, 20 minutes, seven daily Monday to Saturday, four Sunday) and Nuoro (€3.10, 1¼ hours, six daily Monday to Saturday, three Sunday).

WORTH A TRIP

CALA GOLORITZÈ

oCala GoloritzèBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The last beachette of the gulf rivals the best. At the southern end, bizarre limestone formations soar away from the cliffside. Among them is jaw-dropping Monte Caroddi or the Aguglia, a 148m-high needle of rock beloved of climbers. Many boat trips will take you here, or you can hike in from the Altopiano del Golgo on the beautiful, 3.5km Cala Goloritzè Trail. Note that the beach itself is rather small and can get crowded in summer.

Orosei

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Scenically positioned at the gulf’s northernmost point and surrounded by marble quarries and fruit orchards, Orosei is an unsung treasure. Over centuries the silting of the Rio Cedrino (Cedrino river), Spanish neglect, malaria and pirate raids took their toll on the town, once an important Pisan port. Today the atmospheric historic centre is laced with cobbled lanes that twist to pretty stone-built houses, medieval churches and leafy piazzas for kicking back and watching the world go slowly by.

Orosei’s beachfront satellite, Marina di Orosei, is 2.5km east of the town proper. The beach marks the northern end of the Golfo di Orosei; from here you can see the gulf arched in all its magnificence to the south. The Marina di Orosei beach is closed off to the north by the Rio Cedrino and behind the beaches stretch the Stagni di Cedrino lagoons.

1Sights

Chiesa del RosarioCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via del Rosario)

Just off Orosei's main square (Piazza del Popolo), the baroque ochre-hued Chiesa del Rosario, with its trio of wooden crosses, wouldn’t look out of place in a spaghetti Western. The lane leading up from its left-hand side takes you to Piazza Sas Animas and the stone church of the same name, with a vaguely Iberian feel about it.

Chiesa di San GiacomoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza San Giacomo)

Presiding over Piazza del Popolo is this Spanish-style church, with its imposing neoclassical facade and a series of tiled domes. Its terrace commands views of the mountains rising above a jumble of terracotta rooftops.

Chiesa di San SebastianoCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza San Sebastiano)

The most appealing of all Orosei’s churches, the humble yet highly atmospheric 8th-century Chiesa di San Sebastiano is on Piazza San Sebastiano, with a trio of stone arches and a reed-woven ceiling.

Chiesa di San AntonioCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza San Antonio)

On the fringes of the historic centre, this church dates largely from the 15th century. The broad, uneven courtyard surrounding it is lined with squat cumbessias (pilgrims’ huts) and has a solitary Pisan watchtower.

Prigione VecchiaCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Sas Animas)

On the southern edge of Piazza Sas Animas rises the 15m-high hulk of the Prigione Vecchia, also known as the Castello, a tower left over from a medieval castle.

5Eating & Drinking

Downtown Orosei and the northern beaches both offer a wide assortment of eating options, from bars and pizzerias to fancier seafood places.

Trattoria ManuTRATTORIA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 99 93 77; Piazza del Popolo 16; meals €25; h12.30-10.30pm)

This cafe-trattoria has two things going for it: first, a perfect location on Orosei's pretty main square; second, nonstop afternoon opening hours, so you can drop in for a snack any time of day. Aside from that, the food is just so-so.

Da MarioSEAFOOD, PIZZA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 81 48; Via del Mare 27; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)

Locals love this centrally located restaurant for its buzzing atmosphere, its welcoming terrace and its versatility. Whether you're after a full-on seafood dinner or just a great pizza, you'll find something to suit your mood. Beyond the classics – seafood pastas and risottos, platters of grilled fish – you can also get steaks and even some vegetarian fare.

Yesterday BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Nazionale 48; h5pm-1am)

Troubles indeed seem far away at this arty Beatles-themed bar, set around a pocket-sized courtyard. It’s a chilled spot for a snack, cold beer or cocktail.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 99 81 84; Piazza del Popolo 12; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun)

Once in town, follow signs for the centro to wind up in Piazza del Popolo, where you’ll find the local tourist office.

8Getting There & Away

Several daily buses run to Orosei from Nuoro (€3.70, 55 minutes, five daily Monday to Saturday, three daily Sunday) and Dorgali (€1.90, 30 minutes, two daily Monday to Saturday, one Sunday). From Orosei, it's a 30-minute drive to Dorgali, or a 40-minute drive to either Nuoro or Cala Gonone.

FINDING YOUR PERFECT BEACH IN OROSEI

Just east of Orosei, a strip of pale-golden sand fringed by topaz waters runs 5km south and undergoes several name changes along the way: Spiaggia Su Barone ( GOOGLE MAP ), Spiaggia Isporoddai and Spiaggia Osalla. All are equally tempting and are mostly backed by pine stands, giving you the option of retreating to the shade for a picnic or even a barbecue (facilities are scattered about the pines). Past a big breakwater you can wander from Spiaggia Osalla around to Caletta di Osalla, the second stretch of sand after the main beach.

More fabulous beaches necklace the coast to the north of Marina di Orosei, including pine-backed Cala Liberotto ( GOOGLE MAP ) and Cala Ginepro ( GOOGLE MAP ; c), which appeals to families with its shallow water and campground. Further north still is Spiaggia Bidderosa ( GOOGLE MAP ), which forms part of a nature reserve and never gets too busy because visitor numbers are restricted. A 4km trail leads down to the beach, a dreamy vision of sugar-white sand, flanked by lush pines, eucalypts and juniper, and lapped by cobalt-blue waters. The northern stretch sidles up to another fine beach, Berchida.

Galtelli

%0784 / Pop 2470

Crouched at the foot of Monte Tuttavista and hemmed in by olive groves, vineyards and sheep-nibbled pastures, Galtelli is quite the village idyll. Its tiny medieval centre is a joy to wander, with narrow lanes twisting to old stone houses and sun-dappled piazzas. If you fancy tiptoeing off the map for a while, this is the place.

1Sights & Activities

Museo Etnografico Sa Domo ‘e sos MarrasMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Garibaldi 14; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, to 1pm Thu-Sun Oct-May)

Housed in an 18th-century noble villa, the Museo Etnografico Sa Domo ‘e sos Marras contains a fascinating collection of rural paraphernalia. There’s a loom made out of juniper wood, a donkey-drawn millstone and a small display of children’s toys. Upstairs, rooms have been decorated in their original 18th-century style.

Grazia Deledda TrailWALKING

(www.parchiletterari.com/parchi/grazia-deledda/vita.php)

The town’s main claim to fame is its mention in Grazia Deledda’s most famous novel Canne al Vento (Reeds in the Wind). The tourist office can advise on Grazia Deledda itineraries, which take in the Chiesa di San Pietro, a Romanesque-Pisan church near the town cemetery, and the 17th-century Casa delle Dame Pintor, the fictional home of the Pintor sisters in Reeds in the Wind, a passionate tale about the demise of a family of aristocratic landowners.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 01 50; www.galtellicomunitaospitale.it; Piazza SS Crocifisso; h9am-noon & 4-7pm summer, 10am-noon Tue-Sun winter)

Information is available from the tourist office in the old town.

8Getting There & Away

Up to five daily buses connect Galtelli and Orosei (€1.30, 15 minutes). With your own vehicle, it's about a 10-minute drive.

WORTH A TRIP

VALLE DI LANAITTU

Immerse yourself in the karst wilderness of the Supramonte by hiking, cycling or driving through this enchanting 7km valley, signposted off the Oliena–Dorgali road. Towering limestone mountains, cliffs and caves lord it over the narrow valley, scattered with natural and archaeological wonders. Rosemary and mastic, grapes and olives flourish in the valley, which attracts wildlife such as martens, birds of prey, wild boar and goats.

Archaeology buffs will be in their element discovering sites that have been inhabited since the Middle Neolithic period. Near the valley's southern end, it's possible to visit a pair of caves – Grotta di Sa Ohe ( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep) and Grotta Corbeddu ( GOOGLE MAP ; €5; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep) – and the nuraghic site of Sa Sedda ‘e Sos Carros, dating back to 1300 BC; buy tickets for all three sites at Rifugio Sa Ohe, a whitewashed hut down a signposted dirt road.

You'll need your own wheels to travel into the valley. Note that the road is mostly unpaved but generally suitable for 2WD vehicles; inquire locally if unsure about current conditions. The valley's northern entrance is 10km east of Oliena. Leaving Oliena, initially follow signs to Su Gologone, then branch right at the signposted turn-off for Valle di Lanaittu.

Supramonte

Southeast of Nuoro rises the great limestone massif of the Supramonte, its sheer walls like an iron curtain just beyond Oliena. Despite its intimidating aspect, it’s actually not as high as it seems – its peak, Monte Corrasi, only reaches 1463m – but it is impressively wild, the bare limestone plateau pitted with ravines and ragged defiles. The raw, uncompromising landscape is made all the more thrilling by its one-time notoriety as the heart of Sardinia’s bandit country.

The Supramonte provides some magnificent hiking. But because much of the walking is over limestone, there are often few discernible tracks to follow, and in spring and autumn you should carefully check the weather conditions. You can engage a local guide in towns throughout the region, including Oliena, Dorgali and Baunei.

Oliena

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Few images in Sardinia are as arresting as the magnificent peak of Monte Corrasi (1463m) when the dusky light makes its limestone summit glow. From Nuoro you can see Oliena’s multicoloured rooftops cupped in the mountain’s palm. The village itself is an unassuming place with a grey-stone centre, and is a handy base for exploring the Supramonte.

Oliena was probably founded in Roman times, although its name is a reference to the Ilienses people, descendants of a group of Trojans who supposedly escaped Troy and settled in the area. The arrival of the Jesuits in the 17th century was better documented and set the scene for the village’s modern fame. The eager fathers helped promote the local silk industry and encouraged farmers to cultivate the surrounding slopes. The lessons were learnt well, and now Oliena is famous for its beautiful silk embroidery and its blood-red Cannonau wine, Nepente di Oliena. Oliena is also the home town of Gianfranco Zola, English football’s favourite Sardinian import, who was born here in 1966.

1Sights & Activities

The 13th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria rises above Piazza Santa Maria, the village’s focal point and the site of the Saturday market. As you wander the steep grey streets, look out for murals, including one of a notorious bandit and local lad, Giovanni Corbeddu Sali (1844–98); on a pink house near Via Cavour, another mural depicts an old lady dressed in black and bearing a rifle, symbolising Oliena's Easter S’Incontru celebrations, during which shots are traditionally fired to celebrate Christ's resurrection.

The countryside surrounding Oliena provides some awesome trekking for enthusiasts.

oSu GologoneSPRING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sorgentisugologone.it; adult/reduced €2/1.50; h9am-7pm)

Tucked beneath sheer limestone cliffs, this gorgeous mountain spring is the final outflow point for Italy's largest underground river system. Water percolating through the countless fissures and sinkholes in the Supramonte's high country eventually gathers here and flows out to join the Cedrino river. The spring is beautiful any time, but try to catch it around 1pm when the sun passes directly overhead, turning the water brilliant green. Afterwards, the adjacent tree-shaded park is perfect for a picnic or an afternoon swim.

Scientists have only recently begun unravelling Su Gologone's mysteries. In a 1999 experiment designed to trace the flow of water through the Supramonte, researchers injected fluorescent dye into the waters of S'Edera cave near the mountain village of Urzulei. After waiting nearly a month, they discovered the dye finally flowing out right here at Su Gologone. The spring's normal flow has been measured at 500L per second, though it's estimated to increase to 10,000L per second during rainy periods. And the total volume of the Supramonte's underground water system is estimated to be about 100 million cubic metres. Any way you slice it, there's a lot of water in there: in 2010 Italian diver Alberto Cavedon explored the spring to a depth of 135m – but still didn't reach the bottom!

To get here from Oliena, follow the SP46 east 6km towards Dorgali, then turn right following signs for Su Gologone until the road dead ends into a parking lot.

Cooperativa EnisADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 28 83 63; www.coopenis.it; Località Monte Maccione)

This highly regarded adventure-sports company offers guided treks and 4WD excursions into the Supramonte and along the Golfo di Orosei. Destinations include Tiscali, Gola Su Gorropu, Cala Luna and the Supramonte di Orgosolo and Murales, with prices starting at €37 for a half-day trek or €43 for a full day. A packed lunch bumps up the cost by €5.

Sardegna NascostaHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 4434665, 0784 28 85 50; www.sardegnanascosta.it; Via Masiloghi 35)

Arranges trips and treks (€35 to €55 including lunch) with a cultural focus, from hikes to Monte Corrasi, Gola Su Gorropu and the Valle di Lanaittu to canoeing, climbing and caving excursions.

zFestivals & Events

Autunno in BarbagiaCULTURAL

From September to December, 27 mountain villages in Barbagia take it in turns to host a weekend of events, from cheese-making workshops to exhibitions and craft demonstrations. Residents open their doors to visitors and put on a feast of local fare. It’s a great opportunity to buy local produce.

Settimana SantaCULTURAL

(hEaster)

The village is a hive of festive activity during Easter week. The culmination of the weeklong celebrations is the S’Incontru (The Meeting), a boisterous procession on Easter Sunday in which bearers carry a statue of Christ to meet a statue of the Virgin Mary in Piazza Santa Maria.

5Eating

Some of the region's best eateries are outside Oliena along the road to Su Gologone gorge. Head out of town towards Dorgali, then turn right towards Valle di Lanaittu (follow the signs).

Agriturismo GuthiddaiSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 28 60 17; www.agriturismoguthiddai.com; Località Guthiddai; meals €28-35; h7.30-10.30pm; c)

Guests are welcomed like family members at this whitewashed agriturismo, romantically set between vineyards and olive groves. Home-grown wine, olive oil and vegetables appear on the dinner table, and the house speciality is flavoursome pecora in cappotto (ewe stew).

oSu GologoneSARDINIAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 28 75 12; www.sugologone.it; Località Su Gologone; meals €35-45; h12.30-3pm & 8-10pm)

Nestled at the foot of mountains, this rural retreat is a delight, with a bougainvillea-draped terrace for balmy evenings. The local Cannonau red goes well with the Sardinian classics on the menu – culurgiones (Sardinian ravioli), porcetto roasted to crackling perfection on a big open fire, and seadas al miele (light pastries with ricotta and bitter honey).

8Getting There & Away

ARST runs frequent buses from Via Roma to Nuoro (€1.90, 20 minutes, up to 12 daily Monday to Saturday, six on Sunday).

It's a 15-minute drive from Nuoro to Oliena via the SP22.

WORTH A TRIP

DAY TRIPS FROM DORGALI, OROSEI & CALA GONONE

Several attractions in the countryside north of Dorgali make perfect day trips from Dorgali, Orosei or Cala Gonone.

Grotta di IspinigoliCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €7.50/3.50; hhourly tours 10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Jun & Sep, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Apr, May & Oct)

A short drive north of Dorgali, the fairytale-like Grotta di Ispinigoli is a veritable forest of glittering rock formations, including the world's second-tallest stalagmite (the highest is in Mexico and stands at 40m). Unlike most caves of this type, which you enter from the side, here you descend 60m inside a giant 'well', at whose centre stands the magnificent 38m-high stalagmite. You can admire the tremendous rock formations, many of them sprouting from the walls like giant mushrooms and broccoli.

Discovered by a shepherd in 1950, the caves weren’t explored in earnest until the 1960s. A deep network of 15km of caves with eight subterranean rivers has since been found. Cavers can book tours of up to 8km through one of the various tour organisers in Dorgali or Cala Gonone. Nuraghe artefacts were discovered on the floor of the main well, and Phoenician jewellery on the floor of the second main ‘well’, another 40m below. On the standard tour you can just peer into the hole that leads into this second cavity, known also as the Abbisso delle Vergini (Abyss of the Virgins). The ancient jewellery found has led some to believe that the Phoenicians launched young girls into the pit in rites of human sacrifice.

Forget the souvenir snapshots – photography is not permitted.

S’Abba FriscaPARK, MUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %335 6569072; www.sabbafrisca.com; adult/reduced €7.50/5; h9am-noon & 3-7pm Apr-Sep, by appointment Oct-Mar)

Around 5km from Grotta di Ispinigoli, on the country road towards Cala Gonone, S’Abba Frisca is an ethnographic treasure trove. Centred on a lake and waterfalls, its gardens bristle with centuries-old olive trees, macchia and medicinal plants. As you wander, look out for rare Sardinian tortoises milling around. Other displays bringing Sardinia’s cultural heritage to life include a shepherd’s hut built from basalt and juniper, old olive and wine presses, a pane carasau bread oven, traditional costumes and blacksmith tools.

Cala CartoeBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Secluded at the end of a remote back road, this lovely sweep of sand makes a pleasant day trip from Cala Gonone, 11km to the south.

Serra OrriosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €5/2.50; hhourly tours 9am-1pm & 3-6pm, shorter hours winter)

Eleven kilometres northwest of Dorgali, at Km 25 on the SP38, is Serra Orrios, a ruined nuraghic village inhabited between 1500 BC and 250 BC. Nestled among olive groves, the remains comprise a cluster of 70 or so horseshoe-shaped huts grouped around two basalt-hewn temples: Tempietto A, thought to be used by visiting pilgrims, and Tempietto B, for the villagers. There’s a diagram near the entrance, which helps to understand the site, as the guided tours are in Italian only.

S’Ena ‘e ThomesARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)F

Signposted 3km north of the intersection of the SP38 and the SS129 (Nuoro–Orosei road), S'Ena 'e Thomes is a fine example of a tomba di gigante (literally ‘giants' tomb’; ancient mass grave) built at the height of the nuraghic period. A narrow path winds through marshy farmland to the central, oval-shaped stone stele (3.65m tall and 2.10m wide), which closes off the ancient burial chamber.

Dorgali & Around

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Dorgali is a down-to-earth town with a grandiose backdrop, nestled at the foot of Monte Bardia and framed by vineyards and olive groves. Limestone peaks rear above the centre’s pastel-coloured houses and steep, narrow streets, luring hikers and climbers to their summits.

For more outdoor escapades, the dramatic Golfo di Orosei and spectacularly rugged Supramonte are within easy striking distance.

1Sights

oGola Su GorropuCANYON

( GOOGLE MAP ; %328 8976563; www.gorropu.info; adult/reduced €5/3.50; h10.30am-5pm)

Sardinia's most spectacular gorge is flanked by limestone walls towering up to 500m in height. The endemic (and endangered) Aquilegia nuragica plant grows here, and at quieter times it’s possible to spot mouflon and golden eagles. From the Rio Flumineddu riverbed you can wander about 1km into the boulder-strewn ravine without climbing gear; follow the markers. Near the narrowest point (just 4m wide) you reach the formidable Hotel Supramonte, a tough 8b multipitch climb up a vertical 400m rock face.

To hike into the gorge, you’ll need sturdy shoes and sufficient water. There are two main routes. The most dramatic begins from the car park opposite Hotel Silana at the Genna ‘e Silana pass on the SS125 at Km 183. The 8km trail takes 1½ to two hours one way, so allow at least four hours for the return trek, longer if you plan to spend time exploring the gorge itself. While the descent is mostly easygoing, the climb back up is considerably tougher.

The hike weaves through holm oak woods, boulder-strewn slopes and cave-riddled cliffs. For a bird’s-eye perspective of the gorge, you could take the 6km ridge trail from the car park to 888m Punta Cucuttos. It takes around 1½ hours one way.

The second and slightly easier hiking route (14km) to Gorropu is via the Sa Barva bridge, about 15km from Dorgali. To get to the bridge, take the SS125 and look for the sign on the right for the Gola Su Gorropu and Tiscali between Km 200 and Km 201. Follow this road for 10.5km until the asphalt finishes (about 20 minutes). Park here and cross the Sa Barva bridge, after which you’ll see the trail for the Gola signposted off to the left. From here it’s a scenic two-hour hike along the Rio Flumineddu to the mouth of the gorge (four hours return).

If you’d prefer to go with a guide, Sandra and Franco at the Cooperativa Gorropu ( GOOGLE MAP ; %Franco 347 4233650, Sandra 333 8507157; www.gorropu.com; Passo Silana SS125, Km 183, Urzulei) arrange all sorts of excursions and activities, from trekking and canyoning to caving and cookery courses; see the website for prices. Their base is in Urzulei, but they also run a small info centre at Genna ‘e Silana pass.

oTiscaliARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museoarcheologicodorgali.it/wp/Reperto_Sito/tiscali; adult/reduced €5/2; h9am-7pm daily May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr, closed in rainy weather)

Hidden in a mountain-top cave deep in the Valle Lanaittu, the mysterious nuraghic village of Tiscali is one of Sardinia’s must-see archaeological highlights. Dating from the 6th century BC and populated until Roman times, the village was discovered in the late 19th century. At the time it was relatively intact, but since then grave robbers have done a pretty good job of looting the place, stripping the conical stone-and-mud huts down to the skeletal remains that you see today.

Despite the fragmentary condition of the ruins themselves, Tiscali is an awe-inspiring sight: jumbled stone foundations amid holm oak and turpentine trees huddled in the eerie twilight of the limestone overhang. The inhabitants of nearby Sa Sedda ‘e Sos Carros ( GOOGLE MAP ; %333 5808844; €5; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep) used it as a hiding place from the Romans, and its inaccessibility ensured that the Sards were able to hold out here until well into the 2nd century BC.

Museo ArcheologicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.museoarcheologicodorgali.it; Via Vittorio Emanuele; adult/reduced €3/1.50; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6pm Oct-Apr, 9.30am-1pm & 4-7pm May-Sep, closed Mon Nov-Feb)

This modest archaeology museum spells out the region’s past in artefacts, from pre-nuraghic to medieval times.

DON'T MISS

TREKKING TO TISCALI

The hike to the archaeological site of Tiscali is pure drama, striking into the heart of the limestone Supramonte. The trailhead is at the Sa Barva bridge over the green Rio Flumineddu, the same starting point as the route to Gola Su Gorropu. You’ll need sturdy footwear for some easy rock-hopping, but most of the path – marked with red arrows – is easygoing, and canopies of juniper and cork oaks afford shady respite. The 7km trail is signposted and takes between 1½ and two hours; allow five hours for the return hike, breaks and a visit to Tiscali. Time permitting, you can visit the Domus de Jana Biduai ( GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk) on the road back to Dorgali. Stepping stones cross the river to this ancient nuraghic tomb.

Alternatively, you can hike into Tiscali from the west, passing through the gorgeous Valle di Lanaittu. This approach involves driving the dirt road south from Su Gologone through the Valle di Lanaittu and parking at road's end. From here, a trail switchbacks up the mountainside before climbing along the base of a reddish-orange rock face and passing through a natural cleft to reach the final descent into Tiscali. The entire climb, alternately signposted with red-and-white blazes and cairns, takes about 1½ hours. To turn this into a scenic loop on the way back, follow signs for Sa Barva bridge on your initial descent from Tiscali, but then turn left at the bottom, looping around the base of the mountain to return to the Valle di Lanaittu parking area. This route is a bit harder to follow than the classic Sa Barva trail, so inquire locally before departing, or consider hiring a guide.

There are many companies in Oliena, Dorgali and Cala Gonone offering guided tours to Tiscali. Typically these cost around €40 per person and sometimes include lunch.

2Activities

There are several outfits in Dorgali that organise 4WD excursions, hikes and caving expeditions in the great limestone wilderness just outside town.

Cooperative GhivineADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %338 8341618; www.ghivine.com; Via Lamarmora 31)

A one-stop action shop, arranging treks to places including Gola Su Gorropu and Tiscali. Trekking packages including accommodation are also available.

5Eating

Inexpensive snack bars, pizzarias and pasticcerie dot the main drag, Via Lamarmora.

Ristorante ColibrìSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 7211564; www.ristorantecolibridorgali.it; Via Floris 7; meals €30-35; h12.30-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm, closed Sun Sep-Jun)

Hidden away in an incongruous residential area (follow the numerous signs), this lemon-walled restaurant is the real McCoy for meat eaters. Stars of the menu include cinghiale al rosmarino (wild boar with rosemary), capra alla selvatiza (goat with thyme) and porcetto.

oRistorante IspinigoliSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 9 52 68; www.hotelispinigoli.com; meals €30-36; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm)

Linger for dinner and panoramic sunset views at the Ristorante Ispinigoli, just below the entrance to the Grotta di Ispingoli. Located in Hotel Ispinigoli, the well-known restaurant rolls out local delights such as stone bass-stuffed black ravioli with mullet roe, herb-infused roast kid and a waistline-expanding selection of formaggi.

7Shopping

Cantina Sociale DorgaliFOOD & DRINKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cantinadorgali.it; Via Piemonte 11; h8.30am-1.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

For tastings and sales of the region's fine local Cannonau (and other Sardinian varietals), stop in at this wine shop in the heart of town.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0784 92 72 35; www.enjoydorgali.it; Corso Umberto 37; h10am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri)

Can provide information on Dorgali and Cala Gonone, including contact details for local trekking outfits and accommodation lists.

8Getting There & Away

ARST buses serve Nuoro (€2.50, 50 minutes, eight daily Monday to Saturday, four Sunday). Up to seven (four on Sundays) shuttle back and forth between Dorgali and Cala Gonone (€1.30, 20 minutes). You can pick up buses at several stops along Via Lamarmora. Buy tickets at the bar at the junction of Via Lamarmora and Corso Umberto.

By car or motorcycle, Dorgali is 15 minutes from Cala Gonone via the SP26, 35 minutes from Orosei via the SS125, and 45 minutes from Nuoro via the SP46 or SS129.

WORTH A TRIP

DRIVING THE SS125

It’s well worth getting behind the wheel for the sheer pleasure of driving the 60km of road snaking from Dorgali to Santa Maria Navarrese. The serpentine, and at times hair-raising, SS125 threads through the mountaintops and the scenery is distractingly lovely: to the right the ragged limestone peaks of the Supramonte rear above the woods, and gorges carve up the broad valley; to the left the mountains tumble down to the bright-blue sea. The views are tremendous as you crest the vertiginous Genna ‘e Silana pass at 1017m. Shortly afterwards, near the turn-off for Urzulei, you’ll spot the sign for Formaggi Gruthas, where you can stop to buy farm-fresh pecorino, goats' cheese and ricotta. The buttress-like peak of 647m Monte Scoine marks the approach to Santa Maria Navarrese. For a great detour on the return trip, follow signs from Lotzorai towards Talana, then Urzulei. The road twists through a canyon-like valley, shadowing a river and passing reddish granite outcrops, vineyards and cactus-dotted slopes, before looping back up to the SS125 at Urzulei.

The drive is perhaps most beautiful in spring when wildflowers cloak the hills and broom adds a splash of gold to the landscape. Aside from the odd hell-for-leather Fiat, traffic is sparse, but you should take care at dusk when wild pigs, goats, sheep and cows rule the road and bring down loose rocks from the heights.

Baunei & the Altopiano del Golgo

Clinging to a precipitous rocky ridge on the long, tortuous road between Arbatax and Dorgali, the old stone shepherd's village of Baunei is an agreeable mountain outpost and a welcome oasis in the middle of the rugged Supramonte.

Whether or not you linger in town, be sure not to miss the region's uncontested highlight: the 10km detour up to the Altopiano del Golgo, a strange, other-worldly plateau where goats, pigs and donkeys graze in the macchia (Mediterranean scrub) and woodland. From here, one of Sardinia's best hiking trails descends to the coast at Cala Goloritzè, while a hardscrabble road snakes down to the rock spike of Pedra Longa, a natural monument and also the starting point for Sardinia’s star coastal trek, the Selvaggio Blu.

1Sights & Activities

Il GolgoLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP )F

Follow the signs from Baunei up a 2km climb of impossibly steep switchbacks to the plateau, then continue 6km north on pavement before taking the signposted turn-off for the final unpaved 1km to Su Sterru (Il Golgo). From the car park, walk five minutes to this remarkable feat of nature – a 270m abyss just 40m wide at its base. Its funnel-like opening is now fenced off, but just peering into the dark opening is enough to bring on the vertigo.

Chiesa di San PietroCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Standing lonesome on the Golgo plateau amid ancient olive trees, this humble late-16th-century church with its striking whitewashed facade is flanked by cumbessias – rough, open stone structures that traditionally house pilgrims, who come here to celebrate the saint’s day.

The church is a 10km drive north of Baunei. Turn off the SS125 at Via San Pietro, following signs for the Altopiano; after a steep and tortuous initial climb, it's a relatively straight shot to the church across high plateau country.

Cala Goloritzè TrailHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; €6; htrailhead 7.30am-4pm, beach to 6pm)

Few experiences in Sardinia compare with this thrilling trek to Cala Goloritzè, one of the Mediterranean's most spectacular beaches. Suitable for families, the easygoing, well-signposted (if rocky and occasionally steep) hike along an old mule trail takes you through a gorgeous limestone canyon shaded by juniper and holm oaks, passing cliffs honeycombed with caves, dramatic rock arches, overhangs and pinnacles. From the trailhead at Bar Su Porteddu on the Altopiano del Golgo, it’s 3.5km down to the beach (about 1¼ hours).

After an initial 15-minute climb, you’ll get your first tantalising glimpses of the bay and a sea so blue it will make you gasp. Keep an eye out for a traditional sheepfold and the idiosyncratic spike of the Aguglia as you approach the bay. Steps lead down to the half-moon of bone-white pebbles; this is a perfect picnic spot. Bring along your bathers for a dip in the deliciously warm, astonishingly blue waters. Allow 1½ hours for the slightly more challenging, uphill return trip.

To reach the trailhead from downtown Baunei, drive up Via San Pietro, following signs for the Altopiano. After travelling 8.4km north on pavement, continue another 1.2km east on the signposted dirt road to the parking lot at Bar Su Porteddu.

oPunta SalinasHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

For spellbinding views of the Golfo di Orosei coastline, climb to this viewpoint 466m up the mountainside from Cala Goloritzè. It's reachable as a side trip from the main Cala Goloritzè trail, adding an extra hour of hiking time – but due to lack of signposting you're better off tackling this route with a guide, or inquiring at the trailhead near Bar Su Porteddu before setting off.

Salinas EscursioniWALKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %340 5665739, 360 692431; www.supramonteselvaggio.it; Via Pisa 4, Baunei; #)

If you want to strike out on foot on the old mule trails, into holm oak and juniper woods and along the limestone cliffs of the Supramonte, this operator will help you do it. It organises guided walks ranging from two-hour hikes to Pedra Longa to the six-day Selvaggio Blu trek.

Cooperativa GoloritzèHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %368 7028980; www.coopgoloritze.com; Località Golgo)

This highly regarded cooperative organises excursions ranging from trekking to 4WD trips. Many treks involve a descent through canyons to the Golfo di Orosei’s dreamy beaches. Staff at the refuge also arrange guides and logistical support for walkers attempting Sardinia’s once-in-a-lifetime Selvaggio Blu trek.

5Eating & Drinking

Bar-Pizzeria PisanedduPIZZERIA€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 61 06 04; SS125, Baunei; pizzas €4-8; h8am-midnight)

Just north of town, the brightly lit front terrace of this roadside eatery makes a festive spot to linger over wood-fired pizzas after a long day on the trail.

Locanda Il RifugioSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %368 7028980; www.coopgoloritze.com; Località Golgo; meals €25-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Easter-Oct)

Managed by Cooperativa Goloritzè, this converted farmstead puts on a generous spread of regional fare such as ladeddos (potato gnocchi) and spit-roasted kid and suckling pig, washed down with local Cannonau red. Afterwards, spare yourself the nail-biting drive back down to Baunei by camping (per person €7) or staying in one of the refuge's simple rooms (double including breakfast €60).

Bar Su PortedduBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %320 7481158; www.facebook.com/pg/suporteddu; Altopiano del Golgo; h7am-2am)

High on the Altopiano, this simple bar with a huge parking lot opposite the trailhead for Cala Goritzè makes a welcome stop for morning cappuccinos or afternoon snacks. There are also basic camping facilities if you want to get an early start on your hike to the beach.

8Getting There & Away

Baunei sits astride the SS125, about 20km north of Tortolì/Arbatax and 48km south of Dorgali. Several daily ARST buses run south to Tortolì (€1.90, 35 minutes), but for travel north to Dorgali or up to the Altopiano del Golgo, you're much better off with your own wheels.

Ogliastra

Wedged in between Nuoro and Cagliari, the Ogliastra region boasts some of the island’s most spectacular scenery. Inland, it’s a vertical land of unspoilt valleys, silent woods and windswept rock faces, while the coastal stretches become increasingly dramatic the nearer you get to the Golfo di Orosei.

KAYAKING IN CARDEDU

There’s no better way to explore Ogliastra’s coves, grottoes and rock formations than with Francesco Muntoni, who knows the area like the back of his hand.

In Cardedu, 16km south of Tortolì, you’ll find Cardedu Kayak ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 7 51 85, 348 9369401; www.cardedu-kayak.com; Località Perda Rubia, SS125, Km 121.6, Cardedu), where you can spend the day with your paddle slicing rhythmically through the turquoise waters. Francesco caters to kayakers of all levels. His courses cost between €150 and €200 for five two-hour lessons. If you would prefer to go it alone, daily kayak rental starts at €25 per person. Be sure to bring your swimming gear in summer. Francesco can help organise longer tours and ‘nautical camping’ if you fancy fishing from the kayak and sleeping on the secluded beaches.

Francesco also arranges cycling tours into the fertile valleys surrounding Cardedu through his spin-off company MTB Sardinia (www.mtbsardinia.com), as well as hikes along the striking red granite coastline, and walks up into the surrounding hills, which are littered with fine examples of domus de janas (prehistoric chamber tombs).

Tortolì & Arbatax

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Your impressions of Tortolì, Ogliastra’s bustling provincial capital, depend on where you’ve arrived from. If you’ve just disembarked from the mainland you might be disappointed with the town’s mundane, modern appearance. But if you’ve just emerged from the heavy silences of the interior, you might find the cheery souvenir shops and large roadside hotels a welcome change.

Ferries from Civitavecchia, Genoa, Olbia and Cagliari arrive at Arbatax port, about 4km away down Viale Monsignor Virgilio. You can also arrange boat tours up the coast to the Golfo di Orosei from here. In summer you can catch the trenino verde from the train station in Arbatax.

1Sights

Tortolì and Arbatax are resort towns and sights are few and far between.

Rocce RosseLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

If you have a moment in Arbatax, head across the road from the port and behind the petrol station to the Rocce Rosse (red rocks). Like the ruins of some fairy-tale castle, these bizarre, weather-beaten rock formations dropping into the sea are well worth a camera shot or two, framed in the distance by the imperious cliffs of the southern Ogliastra and Golfo di Orosei.

Spiaggia delle RoseBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

To reach this glorious pine-backed beach – in Lotzorai, about 6km north of Tortolì – follow signs for the three camping grounds that are clustered just behind it. Even in peak summer season, it doesn't get all that crowded.

DON'T MISS

ARBATAX BEACHES

You can hit the beach on either side of Arbatax. You’ll find the fine sandy bays and crystal waters of Spiaggia Orri, Spiaggia Musculedda and Spiaggia Is Scogliu Arrubius about 4km south of hotel-dotted Porto Frailis. Or continue even further south to the pristine cliff-flanked cove of Spiaggia Cala Francese at Marina di Gairo.

5Eating

You’ll find a handful of so-so pizzerias and snack bars by the port in Arbatax; nearly all are closed from November to March.

Ittiturismo La PeschieraSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 66 44 15; Spiaggia della Cartiera, Arbatax; meals €35; h1-8.30pm Apr-Oct)

What swims in the Med in the morning lands on plates by lunchtime at this ittiturismo, run by Tortolì’s fishing cooperative. The fixed-price menu includes copious seafood antipasti, followed by pasta, a main course, fruit, water, wine and coffee. Follow the signs as you enter town and walk five minutes along a reed-fringed river bank. Reservations are essential.

The humble shack may be in the back of beyond, but it’s worth going the extra mile for fish this fresh.

La BittaSEAFOOD€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 66 70 80; www.hotellabitta.it; Località Porto Frailis; meals €35-50; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm)

For fine dining with a gorgeous sea view, you can’t beat La Bitta, down by the beach in Porto Frailis. Dress up for exquisitely prepared seafood – think handmade fregola (couscous-like Sardinian pasta) with fresh clams and lime, or tuna steak with fennel-orange salad and anchovies.

8Information

Info Point ArbataxTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %339 8992939; www.arbatax.eu; Via Lungomare 89; h9am-1pm & 6-8pm)

8Getting There & Away

Boat

The main ferry company serving Arbatax is Tirrenia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 66 70 67; www.tirrenia.it; Via Venezia 10). Ferries sail to/from Genoa (from €72, 15½ hours) and Civitavecchia (from €43, nine to 10½ hours). There are also connections with Cagliari and Olbia.

Bus

ARST buses connect Tortolì with Santa Maria Navarrese (€1.30, 15 minutes, 11 daily Monday to Saturday, two Sunday), Dorgali (€4.90, one hour 50 minutes, daily Monday to Saturday) and Nuoro (€5.50, 1½ hours, four daily Monday to Saturday), as well as many inland villages. Local buses 1 and 2 run from Arbatax to Tortolì and, in the case of the latter service, to the beach and hotels at nearby Porto Frailis.

Train

Near the port, you’ll find the terminus for the trenino verde ( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 2 65 71; www.treninoverde.com), a scenic train that runs from Arbatax to Gairo (€14, 2½ hours) daily, except Tuesday, from mid-June to mid-September.

North of Tortolì & Arbatax

Santa Maria Navarrese

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At the southern end of the Golfo di Orosei sits the unpretentious and attractive beach resort of Santa Maria Navarrese. Shipwrecked Basque sailors built a small church here in 1052, and then dedicated it to Santa Maria di Navarra on the orders of the Princess of Navarre, who happened to be one of the shipwreck’s survivors. The church was set in the shade of a grand olive tree that is still standing – some say it’s nearly 2000 years old.

1Sights & Activities

Lofty pines and eucalyptus trees back the lovely town beach, lapped by transparent water and crowned at its northern end by a watchtower built to look out for raiding Saracens; there are more sandy stretches to the south.

About 500m further north of the centre is the small pleasure port, where various operators run cruises up the increasingly wild coastline.

Monte ScoineMOUNTAIN

( GOOGLE MAP )

Rearing above the landscape like a bishop’s mitre, the crag of Monte Scoine attracts climbers to its bolted routes (4b to 6b), especially in summer when it stays shady until midafternoon.

Isolotto di OgliastraLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

Offshore are several islets, including the Isolotto di Ogliastra, a giant hunk of pink porphyritic rock rising 47m out of the water.

Consorzio Marittimo OgliastraBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 61 51 73; www.mareogliastra.com; Via Lungomare)

The Consorzio Marittimo Ogliastra charges between €40 and €50 per person for tours that take in sea caves and several stunning swimming spots, such as Cala Goloritzè, Cala Mariolu and Cala Sisine. Children pay half-price or less.

5Eating & Drinking

Pizzerias and seafood restaurants are scattered around the main church square and down by the waterfront.

NascarSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 61 53 14; www.nascarhotel.eu/ristorante; Via Pedras 1; meals €30-35; h7.30-10.30pm)

A family-run affair, Nascar stands head and shoulders above most places in town, with its romantic garden terrace, slick vaulted interior and faultless service. The food is superb, too, with antipasti, fresh pasta and just-caught fish on the menu, all expertly paired with wines from local vineyards.

Bar L'OlivastroBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 61 55 13; www.lolivastrobar.it; Via Lungomare Montesanto 1; h8am-1am)

Offering lovely sea views from its shady terrace below the spreading branches of an ancient olive tree, Bar L'Olivastro is a relaxed spot for a coffee and snack by day, or a cocktail by night. There is occasional live music.

8Getting There & Away

ARST buses link Santa Maria Navarrese with Tortolì (€1.30, 15 minutes, 11 daily Monday to Saturday, two Sunday), where you can make onward connections for Dorgali, Nuoro and Cagliari. By car or motorcycle, it's an easy 3km jog west to the SS125, your north–south conduit to destinations such as Arbatax (13km), Dorgali (57km) and Cala Gonone (61km).

Inland Ogliastra

Ulassai

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Heading inland from Arbatax you’re in for some scenic treats as the road licks a tortuous path around the titanic mountains to Ulassai, which is dwarfed by the rocky pinnacles of Bruncu Pranedda and Bruncu Matzei. A popular destination for hikers and climbers, this small village is surrounded by some of Sardinia’s most thrilling and impenetrable countryside, a vast natural playground for outdoor enthusiasts.

1Sights & Activities

oGrotta di Su MarmuriCAVE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.grottasumarmuri.it; €10; htours 11am, 2pm, 4pm & 6pm May-July & Sep, less frequent Apr & Oct, more frequent Aug)

High above Ulassai, the mammoth Grotta di Su Marmuri is a 35m-high cave complex. Visits are by guided tour only (minimum of four people), which take you on a one-hour, 1km walk through an underground wonderland festooned with stalactites and stalagmites – some like humongous drip candles, others as delicate as coral. Whatever the temperature outside, it is always chilly down here, so be sure to bring some extra layers.

Scala di San GiorgioVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

Accessible from the village of Osini, the Scala di San Giorgio is a vertical gully that takes its name from the 12th-century saint who is said to have divided the rock as he walked through the area proselytising in 1117. From the top you get vast views over the valley to the abandoned villages of Osini Vecchio and Gairo Vecchio, both destroyed by landslides in 1951.

Stazione dell’Arte Maria LaiGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.stazionedellarte.com; Ex Stazione Ferroviaria; €5; h9am-8.30pm May-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Apr)

Housed in the old railway station, the outstanding Stazione dell’Arte Maria Lai showcases the emotive works of the late artist Maria Lai. Born in Ulassai in 1919, Maria was one of Sardinia’s most important contemporary artists.

DON'T MISS

ON THE TRAIL IN ULASSAI

The dramatic limestone and dolomite cliffs, or tacchi, that rear above Ulassai make this fabulous hiking and climbing territory. Trekkers can strike out on foot into the Bruncu Pranedda canyon or head 7km southwest to view the totally arresting Cascata Lequarci waterfall ( GOOGLE MAP ), with wispy threads that plummet almost 100m over a vertical rock face. The waterfall is at its most spectacular after heavy rainfall. You can make a day of it by bringing a picnic to enjoy in the verdant surrounds of the Santuario di Santa Barbara, a quaint Romanesque chapel.

zFestivals & Events

Ulassai Climbing FestivalSPORTS

(www.climbingulassai.com/festival; hJun)

Launched in 2017 by a group of international climbers who have permanently relocated to Ulassai, this festival is a big four-day party for climbers and like-minded adventure-sports enthusiasts, with climbing and cycling competitions, highlining demos and – just to keep everyone limber – daily yoga sessions.

5Eating

oSu BullicciuSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 7 98 59; Località Su Marmuri; meals €25-30; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm)

Perched high on the hillside near the Su Marmuri caves, this restaurant serves up delicious home cooking, with an emphasis on traditional mountain fare such as spit-roasted meats, grilled vegetables, pecorino cheese, and malloreddus (homemade pasta) with tomato and meat sauce.

7Shopping

Su Marmuri Cooperative Tessile ArtigianaHOMEWARES

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sumarmuri.it; Via Funtana Serì; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, 8am-1pm & 2.30-8pm daily Jul & Aug)

For rugs, towels, curtains and bedspreads bearing Maria’s naturalistic designs, head to the Su Marmuri Cooperative Tessile Artigiana. Here you’ll find a group of dedicated ladies keeping alive traditional hand-looming techniques and you can see the noisy looms in action. Prices start at around €20 for a hand towel.

8Getting There & Away

ARST bus service from Tortolì to Ulassai (€3.10, 1¼ to 3½ hours) is very limited, always requiring a change of buses and usually a long wait. You're much better off with your own vehicle. The 36km drive from Tortolì via the SS125 and SP11 takes about 45 minutes.

Jerzu

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Known as the Citta del Vino (Wine Town), Jerzu is famous for its full-bodied Cannonau red wine. The town is set precariously on a mountainside, its steeply stacked buildings surrounded by imposing limestone towers, known as tacchi (heels), and some 650 hectares of vineyards.

1Sights

Antichi Poderi di JerzuWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0782 7 00 28; www.jerzuantichipoderi.it; Via Umberto 1; h8.30am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

Each year about 50,000 quintals of grapes are harvested to make two million bottles of wine at the Antichi Poderi di Jerzu, the town’s modern cantina. Guided visits and tastings can be arranged by calling in advance.

8Getting There & Away

ARST runs a couple of direct buses daily from Jerzu to Tortolì (€2.50, 50 minutes), but you're generally better off with your own vehicle. The drive from Tortolì takes about 35 minutes via the SS125 and SP11.