Page references in italic indicate illustrations.
Academy of Marseilles, 14
African karite butter, as a nutrient, 67–68
Air bubbles, problem with, 129, 131
Alfalfa meal, as a nutrient, 66–67
Alkalies, caustic, 31–32
Allergies, 50
All-vegetable soaps, 3–4
cost and availability of, 11
Almond oil. See Sweet almond oil
Aloe vera
as a nutrient, 59
American palm kernel oil
cost and availability of, 27
lather ability of, 27
Animal soaps, vegetable versus, 7
Avocado oil
characteristics of, 18
cost and availability of, 18
moisture absorption and, 11
as a nutrient, 59
Avocado Soap, 114–17
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
Balsam copaiba, as a nutrient, 60
Bar soaps, liquid versus, 6–7
Bases for soaps, 31–32, 148–49
Bentonite, 62
Borage Bar, 125
Borage oil
as a nutrient, 63–64
Calendula oil
as a nutrient, 60–61
Calendula Soap, 122–23
Camille Le Doux’s Handmade
Soaps & Toiletries, Ltd., 51, 165
Carrot root oil
as a nutrient, 61
as a preservative, 74–75
Carrot seed oil
as a nutrient, 61
suppliers of, 159
Castile soap, 24
Castor oil
caution when using, 19
characteristics of, 18–19
cost and availability of, 8, 19
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
moisture absorption and, 11
as a nutrient, 61–62
Chemistry, basic, 148–49
Chlorophyll
as a colorant, 55
Clay
caution when using, 63
as a nutrient, 62–63
types and availability of, 62
Coal tar, 52
Coconut oil
characteristics of, 19–20
cost and availability of, 8, 19–20
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
colorants in, 53
Colorants
ground spices and herbs as, 53–54
herbal infusions and decoctions, how to make, 54–55
pearlescent pigments as, 56–57
plant oils and extracts as, 55
synthetic versus natural, 52–53
vegetable compounds as, 55
Cornmeal, as a nutrient, 66–67
Cottonseed oil, characteristics of, 20–21
Cracks in soap, problem with, 130
Curing, 133
Cutting
how to do, 132–33
when to do, 132
Detergent, soap versus, 15
Dyes. See Colorants
Ecodermine, 68
Emollients, 58
Equipment and supplies
list of, 78
materials to avoid, 79
molds, 80–81
safety, 82
scales, 79–80
suppliers, 158–61
wooden trays for bars, 81–82
See also Fatty acids
Essential oils
allergies and, 50
chemical solvents in, 39
as colorants, 55
cost and availability of, 37, 39
determining amounts to use, 42–43
family and types of, 46
list of specialty scents, 47–49
obtaining, 40–41
scent characteristics of, 44
storage and handling of, 41–42
synthetic oils versus, 39–40
Evening primrose oil
as a nutrient, 63–64
Exfoliants, 66
Fats
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
iodine value of, 152
mixing oils and, 149–50
SAP chart for, 153
makeup of common fats and oils, 150
molecular weights of, 151
soap characteristics produced by, 151
Flax seed meal
as a nutrient, 66–67
Fragrance oils, 40
Glycerin, 149
Glycerol molecule, 29, 148, 149
Goat Milk Soap, 110–14
Gourmet Bar, 106–10
Grapefruit seed extract, 73–74
Hand-cut soap, milled versus, 13–14
Herbal infusions and decoctions, how to make, 54–55
Herbs as colorants
list of, for dyeing, 54
use of ground, 53–54
Homemade soaps, store-bought versus, 13
Ingredients
See also under type of
cost and availability of, 8, 11
Iodine value of fats and oils, 152
Jojoba meal
as a nutrient, 66–67
Jojoba oil
cost and availability of, 8
moisture absorption and, 11
as a nutrient, 64–65
Juniper berry meal
as a nutrient, 66–67
Kukui nut oil
as a nutrient, 65
Lard, 7
characteristics of, 21
cost and availability of, 21
effects of, on the skin, 9, 11
history of, 6
scent, 12
Lather, ability to, 11–12
molecular weights of fatty acids and, 151
Lauric acid, 25
Le Blanc, Nicholas, 31
Liebig, Justus von, 6
Lime-soap dispersants, 15
Liquid versus bar soaps, 6–7
Lye
buying, 32
defined, 31
equipment for working with, 34
measuring and testing, 35
safety procedures, 32–33
Measuring, note about, 80
Milled soap
colorants in, 53
hand-cut versus, 13–14
Mixed Nuts Bar, 123
Mixture, diagnosing problems with, 127–28
Mizuhiki cord, 140
Molding, decorative, 133–34
Molecular weights of fatty acids, 151
Natural Organic Hair and Skin
Natural soap, synthetic versus, 16
See also under type of
defined, 58
Oatmeal/honey, as a nutrient, 66–67
Oatmeal/Honey Soap, 122
Oils
See also under type of
cost and availability of, 8
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
iodine value of, 152
mixing fats and, 149–50
SAP chart for, 153
Olein, 148
Olive oil
caution when using, 22
characteristics of, 22–24
cost and availability of, 8, 22–23
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
grades of, 22–23
moisture absorption and, 11
One-Stop Soap, 102–6
Palm Christi oil. See Castor oil
Palm kernel oil
cost and availability of, 27
lather ability of, 27
Palm oil
characteristics of, 24–25
cost and availability of, 8, 24–25
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
lather ability of, 25
Peanut oil
characteristics of, 27–28
cost and availability of, 8, 27
lather ability of, 11
Pearlescent pigments, 56–57
Plant oils and extracts
as colorants, 55
Potassium hydroxide, 31
Preservatives
carrot root oil, 74–75
defined, 70
grapefruit seed extract, 73–74
natural, 71–72
selecting, 72–73
synthetic, to avoid, 70
tocopherols, 74
Problems, diagnosing, 127–31
Rancidity, 61
reasons for, 73
Ricinoleic acid, 19
Rosa Mosqueta rosehip seed oil
as a nutrient, 63–64
Saponification, 3
Saponification (SAP) value
calculating amounts of sodium hydroxide and, 152–55
chart for common fats and oils, 153
for a combination of oils, 155–56
Scents, 12
See also Essential oils
family and types of, 46
list of specialty, 47–49
Seaweed, as a nutrient
algae, 67
flaked, 66–67
Sederma, 68
Seizing, problems with, 128
Separation, problem with, 129
rinse, 96
Tropical Shampoo Bar, 99–102
Vegetable Shampoo Bar, 94–99
Shea butter
as a nutrient, 67–68
Soap
defined, 2–3
how it cleans, 4–5
Soap Essentials Bar, 91–94
Soapmaking
basic chemistry of, 148–49
basic steps of, 86–90, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90
secrets of, 14
Soapmaking businesses, addresses for, 165
Soap Making It, Enjoying It (Bramson), 26, 29, 146
Sodium carbonate, 94
Sodium hydroxide
buying, 32
calculating amounts of, 152–56
chemistry of, 148–49
equipment for working with, 34
forms of, 32
measuring and testing, 35
safety procedures, 32–33
use of the term, 31
Soybean oil (vegetable shortening)
characteristics of, 28
cost and availability of, 28
fatty-acid makeup of, 150
suppliers of, 161
Spices as colorants, use of ground, 53–54
Store-bought soaps, homemade versus, 13
Streaking, problems with, 128–29
Suet, rendering, 8
SunFeather Herbal Soap Co., 146–47, 165
Superfatted soap, 58, 67, 121–22, 154–54
Suppliers
addresses for, 161–64
list of product, 158–61
Supplies. See Equipment and supplies
Surfactant, 4
Sweet almond oil
cost and availability of, 8
moisture absorption and, 11
as a nutrient, 58–59
Syndet bars, 15
Synthetic oils, essential versus, 39–40
Synthetic soap, natural versus, 16
Tallow, 7
characteristics of, 28–30
cost and availability of, 11, 28–29
effects of, on the skin, 9, 11, 29
fatty-acid makeup of beef, 150
grades of, 28–29
rendering, 29
scent, 12
texture of, 12
Temperatures, processing, 85
Texture, 11–12
Touch of Tallow Bar, 118–21
Tropical Shampoo Bar, 99–102
Unsaponifiables, 18, 22–23, 59, 67–68
Vegetable compounds, as colorants, 55
Vegetable dyes, 53
Vegetable oils, cost and availability of, 8
Vegetable Shampoo Bar, 94–99
Vegetable shortening. See Soybean oil
Vegetable soaps
animal soaps versus, 7
scent, 12
texture of, 12
Vitamin Soap, 125–26
Washi paper with mizuhiki cord, 140
Wheatgerm oil
as a nutrient, 61
White powder, problem with excessive, 129
Woodspirits Ltd., Inc., 38, 165
Wrapping
furoshiki, 142–45, 142, 143, 144, 145
making a strand of soapballs, 140, 140
suggestions for, 136–40, 136, 137, 138, 139, 139, 140
washi paper with mizuhiki cord, 140