DUBROVNIK, CROATIA


Dubrovnik, Croatia

Whether you are visiting Croatia’s Dubrovnik for the first time or the 100th, the sense of awe never fails to descend when you set eyes on the beautiful old town. Indeed it’s hard to imagine anyone becoming jaded by the marble streets, the baroque buildings and the endless shimmer of the Adriatic, or not being inspired by a walk along the ancient city walls that protected a civilised, sophisticated republic for centuries.

Although the shelling of Dubrovnik in 1991 horrified the world, the city has bounced back with vigour to enchant visitors again.

27-dubrovnik-loc-bo-eur2
shutterstock_1127442392
Cable car overlooking Dubrovnik | CANADASTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
27-dubrovnik-cgt-bo-eur2

Two Days in Dubrovnik

Start early with a walk along the city walls, before it’s too hot, then wander the marbled streets and call into whichever church, palace or museum takes your fancy.

On day two, take the cable car up Mt Srđ and visit the exhibition Dubrovnik During the Homeland War. Afterwards, continue exploring the old town.

Four Days in Dubrovnik

With another couple of days up your sleeve you’ll have the luxury of confining your old-town explorations to the evenings, when the cruise-ship hordes have returned to their boats. On day three, plan to spend the middle of the day on the island of Lokrum. On your final day, jump on a boat to Cavtat, allowing a couple of hours to stroll around the historic town.

Moving on from Dubrovnik? It’s a short flight to Rome or Venice.

Arriving in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik Airport In Čilipi, 19km southeast of Dubrovnik. Allow up to 280KN for a taxi, or Atlas runs the airport bus service (40KN, 30 minutes), which stops at the Pile Gate and the bus station.

Dubrovnik Bus Station Times are detailed at www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

Where to Stay

There’s limited accommodation in the compact old town itself. You should book well in advance, especially in summer.

Private accommodation can be a good, well-priced alternative; contact local travel agencies or the tourist office for options.

TOP EXPERIENCE

City Walls & Forts

No visit to Dubrovnik would be complete without a walk around the spectacular city walls, the finest in the world and Dubrovnik’s main claim to fame.

Great For…

Avc

dont-missyDon’t Miss

The sublime view over the old town and the shimmering Adriatic from the top of the walls.

need-to-know8Need to Know

map Google map; Gradske zidine; icon-phonegif%020-638 800; www.wallsofdubrovnik.com; adult/child 200/50KN; icon-hoursgifh8am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, 9am-3pm Nov-Mar

take-a-break5Take a Break

Bring your own snacks, and especially your own drinks: the few vendors selling water on the route tend to be overpriced.

top-tipoTop Tip

Don’t underestimate how strenuous the wall walk can be, particularly on a hot day.

shutterstock_1047877657
SCHNEPFDESIGN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Walking the Walls

There are entrances to the walls from near the Pile Gate (map Google map; Gradska vrata Pile), the Ploče Gate (map Google map; Vrata od Ploča) and the Maritime Museum (map Google map; Pomorski muzej; icon-phonegif%020-323 904; www.dumus.hr; Tvrđava Sv Ivana; multimuseum pass adult/child 120/25KN; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar). The Pile Gate entrance tends to be the busiest, and entering from the Ploče side has the added advantage of getting the steepest climbs out of the way first (you’re required to walk in an anticlockwise direction).

The round Fort Minčeta protects the landward edge of the city from attack, while Fort Revelin and Fort St John guard the eastern approach and the Old Harbour.

Fort Bokar and Fort Lawrence look west and out to sea. St Blaise gazes down from the walls of Fort Lawrence (map Google map; Tvrđava Lovrjenac; www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr; Pile; 50KN, free with city walls ticket; icon-hoursgifh8am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, 9am-3pm Nov-Mar), a large free-standing fortress. There’s not a lot inside, but the battlements offer wonderful views over the old town and its large courtyard is often a venue for summer theatre and concerts.

History of the Walls

The first set of walls to enclose the city was built in the 9th century. In the middle of the 14th century the 1.5m-thick defences were fortified with 15 square forts. The threat of attacks from the Turks in the 15th century prompted the city to strengthen the existing forts and add new ones, so that the entire old town was contained within a stone barrier 2km long and up to 25m high. The walls are thicker on the land side (up to 6m) and from 1.5m to 3m on the sea side.

Recent History

Caught in the cross-hairs of the war that ravaged the former Yugoslavia, Dubrovnik was pummelled with some 2000 shells in 1991 and 1992, suffering considerable damage. There were 111 strikes on the walls.

The walls themselves and all of the damaged buildings have since been restored, but you can get a good handle on the extent of the shelling damage by gazing over the rooftops as you walk the walls: those sporting bright new terracotta suffered damage and had to be replaced.

Guided Tours

Dubrovnik Walks (map Google map; icon-phonegif%095 80 64 526; www.dubrovnikwalks.com; Brsalje 8, Pile; icon-hoursgifhMar-Dec) runs excellent English-language guided walks departing from near the Pile Gate. The two-hour Walls & Wars tour is 130KN. No reservations necessary.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Game of Thrones Locations

Dubrovnik is like a fantasy world for many, but fans of Game of Thrones have more reason to indulge in flights of fancy than most, as plenty of the immensely popular TV series was filmed here.

Great For…

hAd

dont-missyDon’t Miss

The city walls, which have often featured in the TV series, particularly during the siege of King’s Landing.

need-to-know8Need to Know

Dubrovnik stands in for the cities of King’s Landing and Qarth.

take-a-break5Take a Break

Oliva Pizzeria (map Google map; icon-phonegif%020-324 594; www.pizza-oliva.com; Lučarica 5; mains 74-105KN; icon-hoursgifh10am-11pm; icon-wifigifWicon-veggifv) is near Rector’s Palace and has great pizza.

top-tipoTop Tip

Both Dubrovnik Day Tours (icon-phonegif%098 17 51 775; www.dubrovnikdaytours.net) and Dubrovnik Walks offer Game of Thrones tours.

shutterstock_715311367
Rector’s Palace | B-HIDE THE SCENE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

City Walls & Fort Lawrence

Tyrion Lannister commanded the defence of King’s Landing from the seaward-facing walls during the Battle of the Blackwater. Fort Lawrence is King’s Landing’s famous Red Keep and both the interior and the exterior will be familiar. Cersei farewelled her daughter Myrcella from the little harbour beneath the fort.

shutterstock_328068389
Fort Lawrence | LALS STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rector’s Palace

The grand atrium of the Rector’s Palace (map Google map; Knežev dvor; icon-phonegif%020-321 497; www.dumus.hr; Pred Dvorom 3; adult/child 80/25KN, incl in multimuseum pass adult/child 120/25KN; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar) featured as the palace of the Spice King of Qarth – they didn’t even bother moving the statue! Built in the late 15th century for the elected rector who governed Dubrovnik, this Gothic-Renaissance palace contains the rector’s office, his private chambers, public halls, administrative offices and a dungeon. Today the palace has been turned into the Cultural History Museum, with artfully restored rooms, portraits, coats of arms and coins, evoking the glorious history of Dubrovnik.

Trsteno Arboretum

The Red Keep gardens, where the Tyrells chatted and plotted endlessly during seasons three and four, are at the Trsteno Arboretum (icon-phonegif%020-751 019; adult/child 50/30KN; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm May-Oct, 8am-4pm Nov-Apr). These leafy gardens, 14km northwest of Dubrovnik, are the oldest of their kind in Croatia and well worth a visit. There is a Renaissance layout, with a set of geometric shapes made with plants and bushes, citrus orchards, a maze, a fine palm collection and a gorgeous pond. To get to Trsteno, catch local bus 12, 15, 21, 22 or 35 from Dubrovnik’s bus station.

Other Notable Spots

oMinčeta Tower (Tvrđava Minčeta) The exterior of Qarth’s House of Undying.

oUz Jezuite The stairs connecting the St Ignatius of Loyola Church to Gundulić Sq were the starting point for Cersei Lannister’s memorable naked penitential walk. The walk continued down Stradun.

oGradac Park The site of the Purple Wedding feast, where King Joffrey finally got his comeuppance.

oSv Dominika street The street and staircase outside the Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan i muzej; icon-phonegif%020-321 423; www.dominicanmuseum.hr; Sv Dominika 4; adult/child 30/20KN; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) were used for various King’s Landing market scenes.

oEthnographic Museum (map Google map; Etnografski muzej; icon-phonegif%020-323 056; www.dumus.hr; Od Rupa 3; adult/child multimuseum pass 120/25KN; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Wed-Mon) Littlefinger’s brothel.

oLokrum The reception for Daenerys in Qarth was held in the monastery cloister.

1Sights

Today Dubrovnik is the most prosperous, elegant and expensive city in Croatia. In many ways it still feels like a city state, isolated from the rest of the nation by geography and history. It’s become such a tourism magnet that there’s even talk of having to limit visitor numbers in the car-free old town – the main thoroughfares can get impossibly crowded, especially when multiple cruise ships disgorge passengers at the same time.

Cathedral of the AssumptionCathedral

(map Google map; Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja; Držićeva poljana; treasury 20KN; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Easter-Oct, 9am-noon & 4-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Easter)

Built on the site of a 7th-century basilica, Dubrovnik’s original cathedral was enlarged in the 12th century, supposedly funded by a gift from England’s King Richard I, the Lionheart, who was saved from a shipwreck on the nearby island of Lokrum. Soon after the first cathedral was destroyed in the 1667 earthquake, work began on this, its baroque replacement, which was finished in 1713.

The cathedral is notable for its fine altars, especially the altar of St John of Nepomuk, made of violet marble. The most striking of its religious paintings is the polyptych of the Assumption of the Virgin, hanging behind the main altar, by 16th-century Venetian painter Titian.

To the left of the main altar is the cathedral’s treasury. Dripping in gold and silver, it contains relics of St Blaise as well as over 150 other reliquaries largely made in the workshops of Dubrovnik’s goldsmiths between the 11th and 17th centuries.

shutterstock_216799411
A golden reliquary in the Cathedral of the Assumption | PAUL PRESCOTT / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

War Photo LimitedGallery

(map Google map; icon-phonegif%020-322 166; www.warphotoltd.com; Antuninska 6; adult/child 50/40KN; icon-hoursgifh10am-10pm May-Sep, to 4pm Wed-Mon Apr & Oct)

An immensely powerful experience, this gallery features compelling exhibitions curated by New Zealand photojournalist Wade Goddard, who worked in the Balkans in the 1990s. Its intention is to expose the everyday, horrific and unjust realities of war. There’s a permanent exhibition on the upper floor devoted to the wars in Yugoslavia; the changing exhibitions cover a multitude of conflicts.

Synagogue & Jewish MuseumSynagogue

(map Google map; Sinagoga i Židovski muzej; Žudioska 5; 50KN; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

With a religious practice that can be traced back to the 14th century, this is said to be the second-oldest still-functioning synagogue in Europe and the oldest Sephardic one. Sitting on a street that was once the Jewish ghetto, the synagogue also houses a small museum exhibiting religious relics and documentation on the local Jewish population, including records relating to their persecution during WWII.

Franciscan Monastery & MuseumChristian Monastery

(map Google map; Franjevački samostan i muzej; icon-phonegif%020-321 410; Placa 2; 30KN; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 2pm Nov-Mar)

Within this monastery’s solid stone walls are a gorgeous mid-14th-century cloister, a historic pharmacy and a small museum with a collection of relics and liturgical objects, including chalices, paintings and gold jewellery, and pharmacy items such as laboratory gear and medical books.

Museum of Modern ArtGallery

(Umjetnička galerija; icon-phonegif%020-426 590; www.ugdubrovnik.hr; Frana Supila 23, Ploče; with multimuseum pass adult/child 120/25KN; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm Tue-Sun)

Spread over three floors of a significant modernist building east of the old town, this excellent gallery showcases Croatian artists, particularly painter Vlaho Bukovac from nearby Cavtat. Head up to the sculpture terrace for excellent views.

Sponza PalacePalace

(map Google map; Palača Sponza; icon-phonegif%020-321 031; Placa bb; May-Oct free, Nov-Apr 25KN; icon-hoursgifharchives display & cloister 10am-10pm May-Oct; cloister 10am-3pm Nov-Apr)

One of the few buildings in the old town to survive the 1667 earthquake, the Sponza Palace was built from 1516 to 1522 as a customs house, and it has subsequently been used as a mint, treasury, armoury and bank. Architecturally it’s a mixture of styles beginning with an exquisite Renaissance portico resting on six Corinthian columns. The 1st floor has late-Gothic windows and the 2nd-floor windows are in a Renaissance style, with an alcove containing a statue of St Blaise.

SrđViewpoint

(Srđ bb)

From the top of this 412m-high hill, Dubrovnik’s old town looks even more surreal than usual – like a scale model of itself or an illustration on a page. The views take in all of Dubrovnik and Lokrum, with the Elafiti Islands filling the horizon. It’s this extraordinary vantage point that made Srđ a key battleground during the 1990s war. That story is told in Dubrovnik During the Homeland War (Dubrovnik u Domovinskom ratu; icon-phonegif%020-324 856; Fort Imperial, Srđ; adult/child 30/15KN; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm; icon-parkgifp), an exhibition housed in Fort Imperial at the summit.

The easiest and quickest way to get to the top is by cable car, or you can drive (follow the signs to Bosanka), walk via the Way of the Cross (Križni put; Jadranska cesta, Srđ), or catch bus 17 from the Pile stop to Bosanka and then walk the final 1.5km.

LokrumIsland

(icon-phonegif%020-311 738; www.lokrum.hr; adult/child incl boat 150/25KN; icon-hoursgifhApr-Nov)

Lush Lokrum is a beautiful, forested island full of holm oaks, black ash, pines and olive trees, only a 10-minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik’s Old Harbour. It’s a popular swimming spot, although the beaches are rocky. Boats leave roughly hourly in summer (half-hourly in July and August). The public boat ticket price includes the entrance fee, but if you arrive with another boat, you’re required to pay 120KN at the information centre on the island.

The island’s main hub is its large medieval Benedictine monastery, which houses a restaurant and a display on the island’s history and the TV show Game of Thrones, which was partly filmed on Lokrum. This is your chance to pose imperiously on a reproduction of the Iron Throne. The monastery has a pretty cloister garden and a significant botanical garden, featuring giant agaves and palms from South Africa and Brazil. Near the centre of the island is circular Fort Royal, commenced during the French occupation in the early 19th century but mainly used by the Austrians. Head up to the roof for views over the old town.

To reach the nudist beach, head left from the ferry and follow the signs marked FKK; the rocks at its far end are Dubrovnik’s de facto gay beach. Another popular place for a swim is the small saltwater lake known as the Dead Sea.

Make sure you check what time the last boat to the mainland departs. Note that no one can stay overnight and smoking is not permitted anywhere on the island.

Day Trips from Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is an excellent base for day trips to the surrounding region – and even in the surrounding countries of Montenegro and Bosnia.

A day trip to the Elafiti Islands northwest of Dubrovnik makes a perfect escape from the summer crowds. Out of 14 islands only the three largest – Koločep, Lopud and Šipan – are permanently inhabited. You can see all three in one day on a ‘Three Islands & Picnic’ tour, which is offered by various operators that have desks at Dubrovnik’s Old Harbour (expect to pay between 250KN and 300KN, including drinks and lunch).

Set on a petite peninsula embraced by two harbours, the ancient town of Cavtat (pronounced tsav-tat) has a pretty waterfront promenade peppered with restaurants, pebbly beaches and an interesting assortment of artsy attractions.

Without Cavtat there would be no Dubrovnik, as it was refugees from Epidaurum (the Roman incarnation of Cavtat) who established the city in 614. The walls of its famous offshoot are visible in the distance and the two are well connected by both boat and bus, making Cavtat either an easy day-trip destination from Dubrovnik or a quieter (not to mention cheaper) alternative base.

shutterstock_1090012922
Cavtat waterfront | XBRCHX / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Destruction & Reconstruction

From late 1991 to May 1992, images of the shelling of Dubrovnik dominated the news worldwide. While memories may have faded for those who watched it from afar, those who suffered through it will never forget – and the city of Dubrovnik is determined that visitors don’t either.

Shells struck 68% of the 824 buildings in the old town, leaving holes in two out of three tiled roofs. Building facades and the paving stones of streets and squares suffered 314 direct hits and there were 111 strikes on the great wall. Nine historic palaces were completely gutted by fire, while the Sponza Palace, Rector’s Palace, St Blaise’s Church, Franciscan Monastery and the carved fountains Amerling and Onofrio all sustained serious damage. The reconstruction bill was estimated at some US$300 million. It was quickly decided that the repairs and rebuilding would be done with traditional techniques, using original materials whenever feasible.

Dubrovnik has since regained most of its original grandeur. The town walls are once again intact, the gleaming marble streets are smoothly paved and famous monuments have been lovingly restored, with the help of an international brigade of specially trained stonemasons.

2Activities

Green Sea SafariVolunteering

(icon-phonegif%095 55 20 190; https://greenseasafari.com; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm Jun-Sep) icon-sustainableS

These environmentally conscious excursions take volunteers out to help clean up remote shores around Dubrovnik, typically places inaccessible by public boats or tours. An hour is spent removing waste and the rest of the time enjoying beaches. Tours depart at 9.30am (weather permitting) from Gruž (across from the fish market) and pre-registration via the website is required.

Green Sea Safari tours are officially free, but donations are welcome.

Sveti Jakov BeachSwimming

(Vlaha Bukovca bb, Viktorija)

Head east from the Ploče Gate for 1.7km and you’ll come to Sveti Jakov, a gorgeous little beach that doesn’t get too rowdy and has showers, a bar and a restaurant.

Adriatic Kayak ToursKayaking, Cycling

(map Google map; icon-phonegif%020-312 770; www.adriatickayaktours.com; Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, Pile; half-day from 280KN; icon-hoursgifhApr-Oct)

Offers sea-kayak excursions (from a half-day paddle to a week-long trip), hiking and cycling tours, and Montenegro getaways (including rafting).

Outdoor CroatiaKayaking

(icon-phonegif%020-418 282; www.outdoorcroatia.com; day trip 440KN)

Rents kayaks and offers day trips around the Elafiti Islands, along with multiday excursions and kayaking-cycling combos.

Lapad BaySwimming

(Uvala Lapad; Lapad; icon-familygifc)

Bounded by the forested Petka hills on one side and the crest of Babin Kuk on the other, Lapad Bay is a busy string of pebble beaches, beachfront hotels and pedestrianised promenades. There are plenty of diversions here, both in and out of the water, including a kids playground and lots of cafes and bars.

Facing west, the main beach is particularly loved for the spectacular sunset views over the Grebeni rocks and Koločep Island.

shutterstock_549109867
Kayaking in Dubrovnik | IRINA SEN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5Eating

There are some very average restaurants in Dubrovnik, so choose carefully. Many places ride on the assumption that you’re here just for a day (as many cruise-ship passengers are) and that you won’t be coming back. Prices are also the highest in Croatia. That said, there are some great eateries scattered around the old town, Lapad and Gruž.

NishtaVegan€€

(map Google map; icon-phonegif%020-322 088; www.nishtarestaurant.com; Prijeko bb; mains 98-108KN; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; icon-veggifv)

The popularity of this tiny old-town restaurant is testament not just to the paucity of options for vegetarians and vegans in Croatia, but also to the imaginative and beautifully presented food produced within. Each day of the week has its own menu with a separate set of cooked and raw options.

VerandaCroatian€€

(icon-phonegif%091 17 46 082; http://konobaveranda.com; Štikovica 24a; mains 95-140KN; icon-hoursgifh1-11pm Mar-Nov)

Showcasing dishes from five different regions (Slavonia, Dalmatia, Istria, Southern Adriatic and neighbouring Hercegovina), the menu at Veranda is like a ‘best of’ Croatian and Hercegovinian foods. Seriously good home-style cooking (Istrian lamb ragout!) comes complete with a matching wine list and is served against the serene imagery of Zaton Bay. The 20-minute drive from Dubrovnik is best covered by cab.

Štikovica features a lovely pebble beach (a minute-long downhill stroll from Veranda), so consider making an afternoon of it.

NautikaEuropean€€€

(map Google map; icon-phonegif%020-442 526; www.nautikarestaurants.com; Brsalje 3, Pile; mains 290-360KN; icon-hoursgifh6pm-midnight Apr-Oct)

Nautika bills itself as ‘Dubrovnik’s finest restaurant’ and it comes pretty close. The setting is sublime, overlooking the sea and the city walls, and the service is faultless: black-bow-tie formal but friendly. As for the food, it’s sophisticated if not particularly adventurous, with classic techniques applied to the finest local produce. For maximum silver-service drama, order the salt-crusted fish.

PantarulMediterranean€€€

(icon-phonegif%020-333 486; www.pantarul.com; Kralja Tomislava 1, Lapad; mains 108-180KN, 5-course tasting menus 390-410KN; icon-hoursgifhnoon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

This breezy bistro aligns its menu with the seasons and has a reputation for exceptional homemade bread, pasta and risotto, alongside the likes of steaks, ox cheeks, burgers and various fish dishes. There’s a fresh, modern touch to most dishes.

Restaurant 360°International€€€

(map Google map; icon-phonegif%020-322 222; www.360dubrovnik.com; Sv Dominika bb; 2/3/5 courses 520/620/860KN; icon-hoursgifh6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep; icon-wifigifW)

Dubrovnik’s glitziest restaurant offers fine dining at its best, with flavoursome, beautifully presented, creative cuisine, an impressive wine list and slick, professional service. The setting is unrivalled – on top of the city walls with tables positioned so you can peer through the battlements over the harbour.

H02WHG
Restaurant 360° | PAUL PRESCOTT / ALAMY SCOTT PHOTO ©

6Drinking & Nightlife

You won’t go thirsty in Dubrovnik – the city has swanky lounge bars, Irish pubs, bars clinging to cliffs, sophisticated wine bars and lots and lots of Croatian-style cafe-bars. And that’s just the old town.

Bard Mala BužaBar

(map Google map; Iza Mira 14; icon-hoursgifh9am-3am May-Oct)

The more upmarket and slick of two cliff bars pressed up against the seaward side of the city walls. This one is lower on the rocks and has a shaded terrace where you can lose a day quite happily, mesmerised by the Adriatic vistas.

D’vinoWine Bar

(map Google map; icon-phonegif%020-321 130; www.dvino.net; Palmotićeva 4a; icon-hoursgifh9am-midnight Mar-Nov; icon-wifigifW)

If you’re interested in sampling top-notch Croatian wine, this convivial bar is the place to go. As well as a large and varied wine list, it offers tasting flights presented by cool and knowledgeable staff (three wines from 55KN) plus savoury breakfasts, snacks and platters. Sit outside for the authentic old-town-alley ambience, but check out the whimsical wall inscriptions inside.

Cave Bar MoreBar

(www.hotel-more.hr; Šetalište Nika i Meda Pucića bb, Babin Kuk; icon-hoursgifh10am-midnight Jun-Aug, to 10pm Sep-May)

This little beach bar serves coffee, snacks and cocktails to bathers reclining by the dazzlingly clear waters of Lapad Bay, but that’s not the half of it – the main bar is set in an actual cave. Cool off beneath the stalactites in the side chamber, where a glass floor exposes a water-filled cavern.

BužaBar

(map Google map; off Od Margarite; icon-hoursgifh8am-2am Jun-Aug, to midnight Sep-May)

Finding this ramshackle bar-on-a-cliff feels like a real discovery as you duck and dive around the city walls and finally see the entrance tunnel. However, Buža’s no secret – it gets insanely busy, especially around sunset. Wait for a space on one of the concrete platforms, grab a cool drink in a plastic cup and enjoy the vibe and views.

3Entertainment

Summer sees classical concerts, theatre and dance performances popping up in historic fortresses and churches; look out for signs around town or enquire at any of the tourist offices. In the evening, various old-town bars host live music.

LazaretiArts Centre

(map Google map; www.arl.hr; Frana Supila 8, Ploče)

Housed in a former quarantine centre, Lazareti hosts cinema nights, club nights, live music, folk dancing, art exhibitions and pretty much all the best things in town.

8INFORMATION

Dubrovnik’s tourist board has offices in Pile (icon-phonegif%020-312 011; www.tzdubrovnik.hr; Brsalje 5; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm), Gruž (icon-phonegif%020-417 983; www.tzdubrovnik.hr; Obala Pape Ivana Pavla II 1; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm Jun-Oct, 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat Nov-Mar, 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun Apr & May) and Lapad (icon-phonegif%020-437 460; www.tzdubrovnik.hr; Dvori Lapad, Masarykov put 2; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm Jul & Aug, 8am-noon & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct) that dispense maps, information and advice.

8GETTING THERE & AWAY

Dubrovnik Airport (DBV, Zračna luka Dubrovnik; icon-phonegif%020-773 100; www.airport-dubrovnik.hr; Čilipi) is in Čilipi, 19km southeast of Dubrovnik. Croatia Airlines, British Airways, Iberica, Turkish Airlines and Vueling fly to Dubrovnik year-round. In summer they’re joined by dozens of other airlines flying seasonal routes and charter flights.

Buses from Dubrovnik Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor; icon-phonegif%060 305 070; www.libertasdubrovnik.hr; Obala Pape Ivana Pavla II 44a, Gruž; icon-hoursgifh4.30am-10pm; icon-wifigifW) can be crowded, so purchase tickets online or book in advance in summer. The station has toilets and a garderoba for storing luggage. Departure times are detailed online.

8GETTING AROUND

Dubrovnik has a superb bus service; buses run frequently and generally on time. The key tourist routes run until after 2am in summer, so if you’re staying in Lapad, there’s no need to rush home. The fare is 15KN if you buy from the driver and 12KN if you buy a ticket at a tisak (news stand). Timetables are available at www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

To get to the old town from the bus station, take buses 1a, 1b, 3 or 8. To get to Lapad, take bus 7.

From the bus stop at Pile Gate, take bus 4, 5, 6 or 9 to get to Lapad.