Survival Guide

Trams in Lisbon | BENNY MARTY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Directory A−Z

`MAccessible Travel`

Cobbled medieval streets, ‘classic’ hotels, congested inner cities and underground subway systems make Europe a tricky destination for people with mobility issues. However, the train facilities are good and some destinations boast new tram services or lifts to platforms.

Download Lonely Planet’s free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel. The following websites can help with specific details.

Accessible Europe (www.accessibleurope.com) Specialist European tours with van transport.

DisabledGo.com (www.disabledgo.com) Detailed access information for thousands of venues across the UK and Ireland.

Mobility International Schweiz (www.mis-ch.ch) Good site (only partly in English) listing ‘barrier-free’ destinations in Switzerland and abroad, plus wheelchair-accessible hotels in Switzerland.

Mobility International USA (www.miusa.org) Publishes guides and advises travellers with disabilities on mobility issues.

Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH; www.sath.org) Reams of information for travellers with disabilities.

Book Your Stay Online

For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://hotels.lonelyplanet.com/europe. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

`iAccommodation`

Reservations

During peak holiday periods, particularly Easter, summer and Christmas – and any time of year in popular destinations such as London, Paris and Rome – it’s wise to book ahead. Most places can be reserved online. Always try to book directly with the establishment; this means you’re paying just for your room, with no surcharge going to a hostel- or hotel-booking website.

B&Bs & Guesthouses

Guesthouses (pension, Gasthaus, chambre d’hôte etc) and B&Bs offer greater comfort than hostels for a marginally higher price. Most are simple affairs, normally with shared bathrooms.

In some destinations, particularly in Eastern Europe, locals wait in train stations, touting rented rooms. Just be sure such accommodation isn’t in a far-flung suburb that requires an expensive taxi ride to and from town. Confirm the price before agreeing to rent a room and remember that it’s unwise to leave valuables in your room when you go out.

B&Bs in the UK and Ireland often aren’t really budget accommodation – even the lowliest tend to have midrange prices and there is a new generation of ‘designer’ B&Bs, which are positively top end.

Camping

Most camping grounds are some distance from city centres. National tourist offices provide lists of camping grounds and camping organisations. Also see www.coolcamping.co.uk for details on prime campsites across Europe.

Homestays & Farmstays

You needn’t volunteer on a farm to sleep on it. In Switzerland and Germany, there’s the opportunity to sleep in barns or ‘hay hotels’. Farmers provide cotton undersheets (to avoid straw pricks) and woolly blankets for extra warmth, but guests need their own sleeping bag and torch. For further details, visit Abenteuer im Stroh (www.schlaf-im-stroh.ch).

Italy has a similar and increasingly popular network of farmstays called agriturismi. Participating farms must grow at least one of their own crops. Otherwise, accommodation runs the gamut from small rustic hideaways to grand country estates. See www.agriturismo.it for more details.

Hostels

You can organise a lengthy excursion in Europe based purely in cheap hostels – as any nostalgic InterRailer will happy relate.

HI hostels (those affiliated to Hostelling International; www.hihostels.com) usually offer the cheapest (secure) roof over your head in Europe and you don’t have to be particularly young to use them. That said, if you’re over 26 you’ll frequently pay a small surcharge (usually about €3) to stay in an official hostel.

Hostel rules vary per facility and country, but some ask that guests vacate the rooms for cleaning purposes or impose a curfew. Most offer a complimentary breakfast, although the quality varies.

You need to be a YHA or HI member to use HI-affiliated hostels, but nonmembers can stay by paying a few extra euros, which will be set against future membership. After sufficient nights (usually six), you automatically become a member. To join, ask at any hostel or contact your national hostelling office, which you’ll find on the HI website – where you can also make online bookings.

Europe has many private hostelling organisations and hundreds of unaffiliated backpacker hostels. These have fewer rules, more self-catering kitchens and fewer large, noisy school groups. Dorms in many private hostels can be mixed sex. If you aren’t happy to share mixed dorms, be sure to ask when you book.

Price Ranges

Rates in our reviews are for high season and often drop outside high season by as much as 50%. High season in ski resorts is usually between Christmas and New Year and around the February to March winter holidays.

Hotels

Hotels are usually the most expensive accommodation option, though at their lower end there is little to differentiate them from guesthouses or even hostels.

Cheap hotels around bus and train stations can be convenient for late-night or early-morning arrivals and departures, but some are also unofficial brothels or just downright sleazy. Check the room beforehand and make sure you’re clear on the price and what it covers.

Discounts for longer stays are usually possible and hotel owners in southern Europe might be open to a little bargaining if times are slack. In many countries it’s common for business hotels (usually more than two stars) to slash their rates by up to 40% on Friday and Saturday nights.

Climate

`ECustoms Regulations`

The EU has a two-tier customs system: one for goods bought duty-free to import to or export from the EU, and one for goods bought in another EU country where taxes and duties have already been paid.

oWhen entering or leaving the EU, you are allowed to carry duty-free 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco; 2L of still wine plus 1L of spirits over 22% alcohol or another 4L of wine (sparkling or otherwise); for other goods (eg, coffee, perfume, electronics) up to €430 (air/sea entry) or €300 (land entry).

oWhen travelling from one EU country to another, the duty-paid limits are 800 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 1kg of tobacco, 10L of spirits, 20L of fortified wine, 90L of wine (of which not more than 60L is sparkling) and 110L of beer.

`RElectricity`

Europe generally runs on 220V, 50Hz AC, but there are exceptions. The UK runs on 230/240V AC, and some old buildings in Italy and Spain have 125V (or even 110V in Spain). The continent is moving towards a 230V standard. If your home country has a vastly different voltage you will need a transformer for delicate and important appliances.

The UK and Ireland use three-pin square plugs. Most of Europe uses the ‘europlug’ with two round pins. Greece, Italy and Switzerland use a third round pin in a way that the two-pin plug usually – but not always in Italy and Switzerland – fits. Buy an adapter before leaving home; those on sale in Europe generally go the other way, but ones for visitors to Europe are also available – airports are always a good place to buy them.

`kFood`

Rates in our reviews are based on the price of a main meal.

`FHealth`

Before You Go

Recommended Vaccinations

No jabs are necessary for Europe. However, the World Health Organization (WHO) recommends that all travellers be covered for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella and polio, regardless of their destination. Since most vaccines don’t produce immunity until at least two weeks after they’re given, visit a physician at least six weeks before departure.

Health Insurance

It is unwise to travel anywhere in the world without travel insurance. A good policy should include comprehensive health insurance including medical care and emergency evacuation. If you are engaging in hazardous sports, you may need to pay for extra cover.

If you’re an EU citizen, the free EHIC (European Health Insurance Card) covers you for most medical care in the 28 EU member states, including maternity care and care for chronic illnesses such as diabetes (though not for emergency repatriation). However, you will normally have to pay for medicine bought from pharmacies, even if prescribed, and perhaps for some tests and procedures. The EHIC does not cover private medical consultations and treatment out of your home country; this includes nearly all dentists, and some of the better clinics and surgeries. In the UK, you can apply for an EHIC online, by telephone, or by filling out a form available at post offices.

Non-EU citizens should find out if there is a reciprocal arrangement for free medical care between their country and the EU country they are visiting.

Websites

The World Health Organization (www.who.int) publishes the free online book International Travel and Health, which is revised annually. MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com) provides up-to-date travel-health recommendations for every country.

It’s usually a good idea to consult your government’s website before departure, if one is available:

oAustralia (www.smartraveller.gov.au)

oCanada (www.phac-aspc.gc.ca)

oUK (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)

oUSA (www.cdc.gov/travel)

Tap Water

Tap water is generally safe to drink in Western Europe. However, bottled water is recommended in most of Eastern Europe and is a must in some countries, including Russia and Ukraine, where the giardia parasite can be a problem. Do not drink water from rivers or lakes as it may contain bacteria or viruses.

In Europe

Good healthcare is readily available in Western Europe, and for minor illnesses, pharmacists can give valuable advice and sell over-the-counter medication. They can also advise if you need specialised help and point you in the right direction. The standard of dental care is usually good.

While the situation in Eastern Europe is improving since the EU accession of many countries, quality medical care is not always readily available outside major cities. Embassies, consulates and five-star hotels can usually recommend doctors or clinics.

Condoms are widely available in Europe, however emergency contraception may not be, so take the necessary precautions.

With Brexit negotiations ongoing as of early 2019, it is unclear how the EHIC health card will be affected for British citizens. Check www.nhs.uk for updates.

`aInsurance`

It’s foolhardy to travel without insurance to cover theft, loss and medical problems. There is a wide variety of policies, so check the small print.

Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling, winter sports, adventure sports or even hiking.

Check that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home.

Worldwide travel insurance is available online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

`IInternet Access`

Internet access varies enormously across Europe. In most places, you’ll be able to find wireless (wi-fi, also called WLAN in some countries), although whether it’s free varies greatly.

Where the wi-fi icon appears, it means that the establishment offers free wi-fi that you can access immediately, or by asking for the access code from staff.

Access is generally straightforward, although a few tips are in order. If you can’t find the @ symbol on a keyboard, try Alt Gr + 2, or Alt Gr + Q. Watch out for German keyboards, which reverse the Z and the Y positions. Using a French keyboard is an art unto itself.

Where necessary in relevant countries, click on the language prompt in the bottom right-hand corner of the screen or hit Ctrl + Shift to switch between the Cyrillic and Latin alphabets.

`HLegal Matters`

You can generally purchase alcohol (beer and wine) from between the age of 16 and 18 (usually 18 years for spirits), but if in doubt, ask. Although you can drive at 17 or 18 years, you might not be able to hire a car until you’re 25.

Drugs are often quite openly available in Europe, but that doesn’t mean they’re legal. The Netherlands is most famed for its liberal attitudes, with coffee shops openly selling cannabis even though the drug is not technically legal. However, a blind eye is generally turned to the trade as the possession and purchase of small amounts (5g) of ‘soft drugs’ (ie marijuana and hashish) is allowed and users won’t be prosecuted for smoking or carrying this amount. Don’t take this relaxed attitude as an invitation to buy harder drugs; if you get caught, you’ll be punished. Since 2008 magic mushrooms have been banned in the Netherlands.

Spain also has pretty liberal laws regarding marijuana, although its use is usually reserved for private places.

In Belgium the possession of up to 3g of cannabis is legal, but selling the drug isn’t, so if you get caught at the point of sale, you could be in trouble. Switzerland, Italy, Moldova, Russia, Ukraine, Malta, Luxembourg, Estonia, Croatia, Austria, Slovenia and the Czech Republic have also decriminalised possession of marijuana, but selling remains illegal. Portugal was the first country to decriminalise the use of all drugs in 2001.

Getting caught with drugs in some parts of Europe can lead to imprisonment. If in any doubt, err on the side of caution, and don’t even think about taking drugs across international borders.

`tLGBT+ Travellers`

Across Western Europe you’ll find very liberal attitudes towards homosexuality. The Netherlands, Belgium and Spain were the first three countries in the world to legalise same-sex marriage in 2001, 2003 and 2005, respectively. Further east, while there is no legislation against it, homosexuality is frowned upon by many locals – especially outside major cities – and it pays to be discreet.

London, Paris, Berlin, Munich, Amsterdam, Madrid, Lisbon and İstanbul have thriving gay communities and pride events. There’s a small gay scene in Budapest and Dubrovnik has a gay beach. The Greek islands of Mykonos and Lesvos are popular gay beach destinations, while Gran Canaria and Ibiza in Spain are big centres for both gay clubbing and beach holidays.

`YMaps`

Tourist offices usually provide free but fairly basic maps.

Road atlases are essential if you’re driving or cycling. Leading brands are Freytag & Berndt, Hallwag, Kümmerly + Frey, and Michelin.

Maps published by European automobile associations, such as Britain’s AA (www.theaa.co.uk) and Germany’s ADAC (www.adac.de), are usually excellent and sometimes free if membership of your local association gives you reciprocal rights.

`aMoney`

ATMs

Across major European towns and cities international ATMs are common, but you should always have a back-up option, as there can be glitches. In some remote areas, ATMs might be scarce.

Much of Western Europe now uses a chip-and-pin system for added security. You will have problems if you don’t have a four-digit PIN number and might have difficulties if your card doesn’t have a metallic chip. Check with your bank.

Always cover the keypad when entering your PIN and make sure there are no unusual devices attached to the machine, which can copy your card’s details or cause it to get stuck in the machine. If your card disappears and the screen goes blank before you’ve even entered your PIN, don’t enter it – especially if a ‘helpful’ bystander tells you to do so. If you can’t retrieve your card, call your bank’s emergency number, if you can, before leaving the ATM.

Cash

It’s a good idea to bring some local currency in cash, if only to cover yourself until you get to an exchange facility or find an ATM. The equivalent of €150 should usually be enough. Some extra cash in an easily exchanged currency is also a good idea, especially in Eastern Europe.

Credit Cards

Visa and MasterCard/Eurocard are more widely accepted in Europe than Amex and Diners Club; Visa (sometimes called Carte Bleue) is particularly strong in France and Spain.

There are, however, regional differences in the general acceptability of credit cards; in Germany, for example, it’s rare for restaurants to take credit cards. Cards are not widely accepted once you’re off the beaten track.

To reduce the risk of fraud, always keep your card in view when making transactions; for example, in restaurants that do accept cards, pay as you leave, following your card to the till. Keep transaction records and either check your statements when you return home, or check your account online while still on the road.

Letting your credit-card company know roughly where you’re going lessens the chance of fraud – or of your bank cutting off the card when it sees (your) unusual spending.

Currency

Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Hungary, Iceland, Norway, Switzerland, Turkey and the UK have their own currencies, but all other countries covered in this guide use the euro, which is made up of 100 cents. Notes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500 euros, though any notes above 50 are rarely used on a daily basis. Coins come in 1c, 2c, 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c, €1 and €2.

Debit Cards

It’s always worthwhile having a Maestro-compatible debit card, which differs from a credit card in deducting money straight from your bank account. Check with your bank or MasterCard (Maestro’s parent) for compatibility.

Exchanging Money

Euros, US dollars and UK pounds are the easiest currencies to exchange. You may have trouble exchanging some lesser-known ones at small banks.

Importing or exporting some currencies is restricted or banned, so try to get rid of any local currency before you leave. Get rid of Scottish pounds before leaving the UK; nobody outside Britain will touch them.

Most airports, central train stations, big hotels and many border posts have banking facilities outside regular business hours, at times on a 24-hour basis. Post offices in Europe often perform banking tasks, tend to be open longer hours and outnumber banks in remote places. While they always exchange cash, they might balk at handling travellers cheques not in the local currency.

The best exchange rates are usually at banks. Bureaux de change usually – but not always – offer worse rates or charge higher commissions. Hotels and airports are almost always the worst places to change money.

International Transfers

International bank transfers are good for secure one-off movements of large amounts of money, but they might take three to five days and there will be a fee (about £25 in the UK, for example). Be sure to specify the name of the bank, plus the sort code and address of the branch where you’d like to pick up your money. To avoid bank charges consider using an online transfer service such as TransferWise.

In an emergency it’s quicker but more costly to have money wired via an Amex office or Western Union.

Taxes & Refunds

When non-EU residents spend more than a certain amount (around €75, but amounts vary from country to country), they can usually reclaim any sales tax when leaving the country.

Making a tax-back claim is straightforward. First, make sure the shop offers duty-free sales (often a sign will be displayed reading ‘Tax-Free Shopping’). When making your purchase, ask the shop attendant for a tax-refund voucher, filled in with the correct amount and the date. This can be used to claim a refund directly at international airports, or stamped at ferry ports or border crossings and mailed back for a refund.

Tipping

o‘Service charges’ are increasingly added to bills. In theory this means you’re not obliged to tip. In practice that money often doesn’t go to the server. Don’t pay twice. If the service charge is optional, remove it and pay a tip. If it’s not optional, don’t tip.

oTipping isn’t such a big deal in Europe as it is in North America. If you tip, 5% to 10% will usually suffice.

`JOpening Hours`

Opening times vary significantly between countries. The following is a general overview.

Shops & businesses 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm or 5pm Saturday. In smaller towns there may be a one- to two-hour closure for lunch. Some shops close on Sunday. Businesses also close on national holidays and local feast days.

Banks 9am to between 3pm and 5pm Monday to Friday. Occasionally shut for lunch.

Restaurants noon to midnight

Bars 6pm to midnight or later

Museums closed Monday or (less commonly) Tuesday

`wPublic Holidays`

There are large variations in statutory holidays in Europe. The following are the most common across the board.

New Year’s Day 1 January

Good Friday March/April

Easter Sunday March/April

May Day 1 May

Pentecost/Whitsun May/June

Christmas Day 25 December

`LSafe Travel`

Travelling in Europe is usually very safe.

Discrimination

In some parts of Europe travellers of African, Arab or Asian descent might encounter unpleasant attitudes that are unrelated to them personally. In rural areas travellers whose skin colour marks them out as foreigners might experience unwanted attention.

Attitudes vary from country to country. People tend to be more accepting in cities than in the country. Race is also less of an issue in Western Europe than in parts of the former Eastern Bloc.

Druggings

Although rare, some drugging of travellers does occur in Europe. Travellers are especially vulnerable on trains and buses where a new ‘friend’ may offer you food or a drink that will knock you out, giving them time to steal your belongings.

Gassings have also been reported on a handful of overnight international trains. The best protection is to lock the door of your compartment (use your own lock if there isn’t one) and to lock your bags to luggage racks, preferably with a sturdy combination cable.

If you can help it, never sleep alone in a train compartment.

Pickpockets & Thieves

Theft is definitely a problem in parts of Europe and you have to be aware of unscrupulous fellow travellers. The key is to be sensible with your possessions.

oDon’t store valuables in train-station lockers or luggage-storage counters and be careful about people who offer to help you operate a locker. Also be vigilant if someone offers to carry your luggage: they might carry it away altogether.

oDon’t leave valuables in your car, on train seats or in your room. When going out, don’t flaunt cameras, laptops and other expensive electronic goods.

oCarry a small day pack, as shoulder bags are an open invitation for snatch-thieves. Consider using small zipper locks on your packs.

oPickpockets are most active in dense crowds, especially in busy train stations and on public transport during peak hours. Be careful in these situations.

oSpread valuables, cash and cards around your body or in different bags.

oA money belt with your essentials (passport, cash, credit cards, airline tickets) is usually a good idea. However, so you needn’t delve into it in public, carry a wallet with a day’s worth of cash.

oHaving your passport stolen is less of a disaster if you’ve recorded the number and issue date or, even better, photocopied the relevant data pages. You can also scan them and email them to yourself. If you lose your passport, notify the police immediately to get a statement and contact your nearest consulate.

oCarry photocopies of your credit cards, airline tickets and other travel documents.

Emergency Numbers

The phone number 112 can be dialled free for emergencies in all EU states. See individual countries for country-specific emergency numbers.

Unrest & Terrorism

Civil unrest and terrorist bombings are relatively rare in Europe, all things considered, but they do occur. A spike in attacks by extremists in the UK, France, Germany, Belgium and Spain occurred in the mid-2010s – seven of them between 2015 and 2017 – although things seemed to have quietened down somewhat since. Keep an eye on the news and avoid areas where any flare-up seems likely.

Although Turkey is by no means a dangerous country to visit, particular care should be taken anywhere close to Turkey’s borders with Syria and Iraq, while the country’s south-east experiences periodic outbreaks of unrest.

`KTelephone`

Mobile Phones

If your mobile phone is European, it’s often perfectly feasible to use it on roaming throughout the continent.

If you’re coming from outside Europe, it’s usually worth buying a prepaid local SIM in one European country. Even if you’re not staying there long, calls across Europe will still be cheaper if they’re not routed via your home country and the prepaid card will enable you to keep a limit on your spending. In several countries you need your passport to buy a SIM card.

In order to use other SIM cards in your phone, you’ll need to have your handset unlocked by your home provider. Even if your phone is locked, you can use apps such as WhatsApp to send free text messages internationally wherever you have wi-fi access, or Skype to make free international calls whenever you’re online.

Europe uses the GSM 900 network, which also covers Australia and New Zealand, but is not compatible with the North American GSM 1900 or the totally different system in Japan and South Korea. If you have a GSM phone, check with your service provider about using it in Europe. You’ll need international roaming, but this is usually free to enable.

You can call abroad from almost any phone box in Europe. Public telephones accepting phonecards (available from post offices, telephone centres, news stands or retail outlets) are virtually the norm now; coin-operated phones are rare if not impossible to find.

Without a phonecard, you can ring from a telephone booth inside a post office or telephone centre and settle your bill at the counter. Reverse-charge (collect) calls are often possible. From many countries the Country Direct system lets you phone home by billing the long-distance carrier you use at home. These numbers can often be dialled from public phones without even inserting a phonecard.

`WTime`

Europe is divided into four time zones. The countries covered in this guide fall into the following zones:

UTC (Britain, Ireland, Portugal) GMT (GMT+1 in summer)

CET (the majority of European countries) GMT+1 (GMT+2 in summer)

At 9am in Britain it’s 1am (GMT/UTC minus eight hours) on the US west coast, 4am (GMT/UTC minus five hours) on the US east coast, 10am in Paris and Prague, 11am in Athens, midday in Moscow and 7pm (GMT/UTC plus 10 hours) in Sydney.

Nearly all of Europe, with several exceptions (including Iceland), observes daylight saving time on synchronised dates in late March (clocks go forward an hour) and late October (clocks go back an hour).

oBritain, Ireland and Portugal (GMT)

oCentral Europe (GMT plus one hour)

oGreece, Turkey and Eastern Europe (GMT plus two hours)

`GToilets`

Many public toilets require a small fee either deposited in a box or given to the attendant. Public-toilet provision is changeable from city to city. If you can’t find one, simply drop into a hotel or restaurant and ask to use theirs.

`CTourist Information`

Unless otherwise indicated, tourist offices are common and widespread, although their usefulness varies enormously.

`EVisas`

oCitizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the UK need only a valid passport to enter nearly all countries in Europe, including the entire EU.

oTransit visas are usually cheaper than tourist or business visas but they allow only a very short stay (one to five days) and can be difficult to extend.

oAll visas have a ‘use-by’ date and you’ll be refused entry afterwards. In some cases it’s easier to get visas as you go along, rather than arranging them all beforehand. Carry spare passport photos (you may need from one to four every time you apply for a visa).

oVisas to neighbouring countries are usually issued immediately by consulates in Eastern Europe, although some may levy a hefty surcharge for ‘express service’.

oConsulates are generally open weekday mornings (if there’s both an embassy and a consulate, you want the consulate).

`OWomen Travellers`

oWomen might attract unwanted attention in Turkey, rural Spain and southern Italy, especially Sicily, where many men view whistling and catcalling as flattery. Conservative dress can help deter this.

oHitchhiking alone is not recommended anywhere.

oFemale readers have reported assaults at Turkish hotels with shared bathrooms, so women travelling to Turkey might want to consider a more expensive room with private bathroom.

oJourneywoman (www.journeywoman.com) maintains an online newsletter about solo female travels all over the world.

Transport

`(Getting There & Away`

Europe is one of the world’s major destinations, whose busiest airports have routes fanning out to the far corners of the globe. More adventurous travellers can enter from Asia on some epic long-distance train routes. Numerous ferries jockey across the Mediterranean between Europe and Africa.

Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Air

To save money, it’s best to travel off-season. This means, if possible, avoid mid-June to early September, Easter, Christmas and school holidays.

Regardless of your ultimate destination, it’s sometimes better to pick a recognised transport ‘hub’ as your initial port of entry, where high traffic volumes help keep prices down. Long-haul airfares to Eastern Europe are rarely a bargain; you’re usually better off flying to a Western European hub and taking an onward budget-airline flight or train. The main hubs in Eastern Europe are Budapest and Prague.

Gateway cities such as London and Paris are also well serviced by low-cost carriers that fly to other parts of Europe.

Land

It’s possible to reach Europe by various different train routes from Asia. Most common is the Trans-Siberian Railway, connecting Moscow to Siberia, the Russian Far East, Mongolia and China. See www.seat61.com for more information about these adventurous routes.

Border Crossings

Border formalities have been relaxed in most of the EU, but still exist in all their original bureaucratic glory in the more far-flung parts of Eastern Europe.

In line with the Schengen Agreement, there are officially no passport controls at the borders between 26 European states. Sometimes, however, there are spot checks on trains crossing borders, so always have your passport. The UK maintains border controls over traffic from other EU countries (except Ireland, with which it shares an open border), although there is no customs control. The same goes for Ireland. For up-to-date details see www.schengenvisainfo.com.

Sea

There are numerous ferry routes between Europe and Africa, including links from Spain to Morocco, Italy to Tunisia, France to Morocco and France to Tunisia. Check out www.traghettiweb.it for comprehensive information on all Mediterranean ferries. Ferries are often filled to capacity in summer, especially to and from Tunisia, so book well in advance if you’re taking a vehicle across.

The Schengen Area

Twenty-six European countries are signatories to the Schengen Agreement, which has effectively dismantled internal border controls between them. They are Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Italy, Hungary, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovenia, Slovakia, Spain, Sweden and Switzerland.

The UK and Ireland, as well as much of Eastern Europe, are not part of the Schengen Agreement. Visitors from non-EU countries will have to apply for visas to these countries separately.

Citizens of the USA, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the UK only need a valid passport to enter Schengen countries (as well as the UK and Ireland). However, other nationals, including South Africans, can apply for a single visa – a Schengen visa – when travelling throughout this region.

Non-EU visitors (with or without a Schengen visa) should expect to be questioned, however perfunctorily, when first entering the region. However, later travel within the zone is much like a domestic trip, with no border controls.

If you need a Schengen visa, you must apply at the consulate or embassy of the country that’s your main destination, or your point of entry. You may then stay up to a maximum of 90 days in the entire Schengen area within a six-month period. Once your visa has expired, you must leave the zone and may only reenter after three months abroad. Shop around when choosing your point of entry, as visa prices may differ from country to country.

If you’re a citizen of the USA, Australia, New Zealand or Canada, you may stay visa-free a total of 90 days, during six months, within the entire Schengen region.

For up-to-date details see www.schengenvisainfo.com.

`yGetting Around`

Air

Airlines

Low-cost carriers have revolutionised European transport. Most airlines, budget or otherwise, have a similar pricing system – namely that ticket prices rise with the number of seats sold on each flight, so book as early as possible to get a decent fare.

Some low-cost carriers – Ryanair being the prime example – have made a habit of flying to smaller, less convenient airports on the outskirts of their destination city, or even to the airports of nearby cities, so check the exact location of the departure and arrival airports before you book. Many flights also leave at the crack of dawn or arrive inconveniently late at night.

Departure and other taxes (including booking fees, checked-baggage fees and other surcharges) soon add up and are included in the final price by the end of the online booking process – usually a lot more than you were hoping to pay – but with careful choosing and advance booking you can get excellent deals.

For a comprehensive overview of which low-cost carriers fly to or from which European cities, check out the excellent www.flycheapo.com.

Air Passes

Various travel agencies and airlines offer air passes including the three main airline alliances: Oneworld (www.oneworld.com), Star Alliance (www.staralliance.com) and SkyTeam (www.skyteam.com). Check with your travel agent for current promotions.

Bicycle

Much of Europe is ideally suited to cycling. It’s easy to hire bikes throughout most of Europe but, for major cycling trips, it’s best to have a bike you’re familiar with, so consider bringing your own rather than buying on arrival. If coming from outside Europe, ask about the airline’s policy on transporting bikes before buying your ticket.

A primary consideration on a cycling trip is to travel light, but you should take a few tools and spare parts, including a puncture-repair kit and an extra inner tube. Panniers are essential to balance your possessions on either side of the bike frame. Wearing a helmet is not compulsory in most countries, but is certainly sensible.

Seasoned cyclists can average 80km a day, but it depends on what you’re carrying and your level of fitness.

Cyclists’ Touring Club (CTC; www.ctc.org.uk) The national cycling association of the UK runs organised trips to continental Europe.

European Cyclists’ Federation (www.ecf.com) Has details of ‘EuroVelo’, the European cycle network of 12 pan-European cycle routes, plus tips for other tours.

SwitzerlandMobility (www.veloland.ch/en/cycling-in-switzerland.html) Details of Swiss national routes and more.

Climate Change & Travel

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO₂, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO₂) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Boat

Several different ferry companies compete on the main ferry routes, resulting in a comprehensive but complicated service. The same ferry company can have a host of different prices for the same route, depending on the time of day or year, validity of the ticket and length of your vehicle. Vehicle tickets usually include the driver and often up to five passengers free of charge.

It’s worth booking ahead where possible as there may be special reductions on off-peak crossings and advance-purchase tickets. On English Channel routes, apart from one-day or short-term excursion returns, there is little price advantage in buying a return ticket versus two singles.

Rail-pass holders are entitled to discounts or free travel on some lines. Food on ferries is often expensive (and lousy), so it is worth bringing your own. Also be aware that if you take your vehicle on board, you are usually denied access to it during the voyage.

Lake and river ferry services operate in many countries, Austria and Switzerland being just two. Some of these are very scenic.

Bus

International Buses

Europe’s biggest organisation of international buses operates under the name Eurolines (www.eurolines.com), comprised of various national companies. A Eurolines Pass (www.eurolines.com/en/eurolines-pass) is offered for extensive travel, allowing passengers to visit a choice of 53 cities across Europe over 15 or 30 days. In the high season (mid-June to mid-September) the pass costs €315/405 for those aged under 26, or €375/490 for those 26 and over. It’s cheaper in other periods.

Busabout (www.busabout.com) offers a ‘hop-on, hop-off’ service around Europe, stopping at major cities. Buses are often oversubscribed, so book each sector to avoid being stranded. It departs every two days from May to the end of October.

National Buses

Domestic buses provide a viable alternative to trains in most countries. Again, they are usually slightly cheaper and somewhat slower. Buses are generally best for short hops, such as getting around cities and reaching remote villages, and they are often the only option in mountainous regions.

Car & Motorcycle

Travelling with your own vehicle gives flexibility and is the best way to reach remote places. However, the independence does sometimes isolate you from local life. Also, cars can be a target for theft and are often impractical in city centres, where traffic jams, parking problems and getting thoroughly lost can make it well worth ditching your vehicle and using public transport. Various car-carrying trains can help you avoid long, tiring drives.

Campervan

One popular way to tour Europe is for a group of three or four people to band together and buy or rent a campervan. London is the usual embarkation point. Look at the ads in London’s free magazine TNT (www.tntmagazine.com) if you wish to form or join a group. TNT is also a good source for purchasing a van, as is Loot (www.loot.com).

Some secondhand dealers offer a ‘buy-back’ scheme for when you return from the continent, but check the small print before signing anything and remember that if an offer is too good to be true, it probably is. Buying and reselling privately should be more advantageous if you have time. In the UK, DUInsure (www.duinsure.com) offers a campervan policy.

Motorcycle Touring

Europe is made for motorcycle touring, with quality winding roads, stunning scenery and an active motorcycling scene. Just make sure your wet-weather motorcycling gear is up to scratch.

oRider and passenger crash helmets are compulsory everywhere in Europe.

oAustria, France, Germany, Portugal and Spain require that motorcyclists use headlights during the day; in other countries it is recommended.

oOn ferries, motorcyclists rarely have to book ahead as they can generally be squeezed on board.

oTake note of the local custom about parking motorcycles on pavements (sidewalks). Though this is illegal in some countries, the police often turn a blind eye provided the vehicle doesn’t obstruct pedestrians.

Fuel

oFuel prices can vary enormously (though fuel is always more expensive than in North America or Australia).

oUnleaded petrol only is available throughout Europe. Diesel is usually cheaper, though the difference is marginal in Britain, Ireland and Switzerland.

oIreland’s Automobile Association maintains a webpage of European fuel prices at www.theaa.ie/aa/motoring-advice/petrol-prices.aspx.

Insurance

oThird-party motor insurance is compulsory. Most UK policies automatically provide this for EU countries. Get your insurer to issue a Green Card (which may cost extra), an internationally recognised proof of insurance, and check that it lists every country you intend to visit. You’ll need this in the event of an accident outside the country where the vehicle is insured.

oAsk your insurer for a European Accident Statement form, which can simplify things if worst comes to worst. Never sign statements that you can’t read or understand – insist on a translation and sign that only if it’s acceptable.

oFor non-EU countries, check the requirements with your insurer. Travellers from the UK can obtain additional advice and information from the Association of British Insurers (www.abi.org.uk).

oTake out a European motoring assistance policy. Non-Europeans might find it cheaper to arrange international coverage with their national motoring organisation before leaving home. Ask your motoring organisation for details about the free services offered by affiliated organisations around Europe.

oResidents of the UK should contact the RAC (www.rac.co.uk) or the AA (www.theaa.co.uk) for more information. Residents of the US, contact AAA (www.aaa.com).

Rental

oRenting a car is ideal for people who will need cars for 16 days or fewer. Anything longer, it’s better to lease.

oBig international rental firms will give you reliable service and good vehicles. National or local firms can often undercut the big companies by up to 40%.

oUsually you will have the option of returning the car to a different outlet at the end of the rental period, but there’s normally a charge for this and it can be very steep if it’s a long way from your point of origin.

oBook early for the lowest rates and make sure you compare rates in different cities. Taxes range from 15% to 20% and surcharges apply if rented from an airport.

oIf you rent a car in the EU you might not be able to take it outside the EU, and if you rent the car outside the EU, you will only be able to drive within the EU for eight days. Ask at the rental agencies for other such regulations.

oMake sure you understand what is included in the price (unlimited or paid kilometres, tax, injury insurance, collision damage waiver etc) and what your liabilities are. We recommend taking the collision damage waiver, though you can probably skip the injury insurance if you and your passengers have decent travel insurance.

oThe minimum rental age is usually 21 years and sometimes 25. You’ll need a credit card and to have held your licence for at least a year.

oMotorcycle and moped rental is common in some countries, such as Italy, Spain, Greece and southern France.

Road Conditions & Road Rules

oConditions and types of roads vary across Europe. The fastest routes are generally four- or six-lane highways known locally as motorways, autoroutes, autostrade, autobahnen etc. These tend to skirt cities and plough through the countryside in straight lines, often avoiding the most scenic bits.

oSome highways incur tolls, which are often quite hefty (especially in Italy, France and Spain), but there will always be an alternative route. Motorways and other primary routes are generally in good condition.

oRoad surfaces on minor routes are unreliable in some countries (eg parts of eastern Europe and Ireland), although normally they will be more than adequate.

oExcept in Britain and Ireland, you should drive on the right. Vehicles brought to the continent from any of these locales should have their headlights adjusted to avoid blinding oncoming traffic (a simple solution on older headlight lenses is to cover up a triangular section of the lens with tape). Priority is often given to traffic approaching from the right in countries that drive on the right-hand side.

oSpeed limits vary from country to country. You may be surprised at the apparent disregard for traffic regulations in some places (particularly in Italy and Greece), but as a visitor it is always best to be cautious. Many driving infringements are subject to an on-the-spot fine. Always ask for a receipt.

oEuropean drink-driving laws are particularly strict. The blood-alcohol concentration (BAC) limit when driving is usually between 0.05% and 0.08%, but in certain areas it can be zero.

oAlways carry proof of ownership of your vehicle (Vehicle Registration Document for British-registered cars). An EU driving licence is acceptable for those driving through Europe. If you have any other type of licence, you should obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP) from your motoring organisation. Check what type of licence is required in your destination prior to departure.

oEvery vehicle that travels across an international border should display a sticker indicating its country of registration. A warning triangle, to be used in the event of breakdown, is compulsory almost everywhere.

oSome recommended accessories include a first-aid kit (compulsory in Austria and Croatia), a spare bulb kit (compulsory in Spain), a reflective jacket for every person in the car (compulsory in France, Italy and Spain) and a fire extinguisher.

Taxis

Taxis in Europe are metered and rates are usually high. There might also be surcharges for things such as luggage, time of day, pick-up location and extra passengers.

Good bus, rail and underground-railway networks often render taxis unnecessary, but if you need one in a hurry, they can be found idling near train stations or outside big hotels. Lower fares make taxis more viable in some countries such as Spain, Greece, Portugal and Turkey.

Uber operates in most of Europe’s large cities, although you won’t find it in Bulgaria, Denmark or Hungary, where it is currently banned.

Train

Comfortable, frequent and reliable, trains are the way to get around Europe.

oMany state railways have interactive websites publishing their timetables and fares, including www.bahn.de (Germany) and www.sbb.ch (Switzerland), which both have pages in English. Eurail (www.eurail.com) links to 28 European train companies.

oThe Man in Seat 61 (www.seat61.com) is very comprehensive and a gem; the US-based Budget Europe Travel Service (www.budgeteuropetravel.com) can also help with tips.

oEuropean trains sometimes split en route to service two destinations, so even if you’re on the right train, make sure you’re also in the correct carriage.

oA train journey to almost every station in Europe can be booked via Voyages-sncf.com (http://uk.voyages-sncf.com/en), which also sells InterRail and other passes.