Layered Cravat

short decorative scarves tied snuggly at the nape of the neck provide an elegant touch to your day. Usually thought of as a man’s accessory, this two-layered interpretation weaves up quickly and uses very little yarn, allowing you to freely use luxury yarns with smashing results. A blend of fine kid mohair was used in both the warp and weft on this cravat. Although mohair is a sticky yarn that can be tricky when used as a warp, the loose sett used here helps alleviate the problem. The yarns in the two layers shown here are close in hue, but one has a dash of metallic for a subtle sparkle.

Finished Dimensions

2 scarves, each about 6" (15 cm) wide by 33" (84 cm) long, plus 1" (2.5 cm) fringe at each end.

Weave Structure

Plain weave.

Equipment

10-dent rigid heddle with 6" (15 cm) weaving width; two stick shuttles.

Warp and Weft Specifications

Sett (epi)

10.

Weaving Width

6" (15 cm).

Picks per Inch (ppi)

8.

Warp Length

98" (249 cm; includes 30" [76 cm] for loom waste and take-up).

Number of Warp Ends

60.

Yarns

Warp

2-ply laceweight kid mohair/merino wool/microfiber blend (5,000 yd [4,572 m]/ lb): 165 yd (151 m) light blue (#4681).

Shown here: Crystal Palace Kid Merino (28% kid mohair, 28% merino wool, 44% microfiber; 240 yd [219.5 m]/25 g): #4681 Misty Blue (light blue).

 

Weft

2-ply laceweight kid mohair/silk/polyester/nylon blend (4,700 yd [4,295.5 m]/lb): 49 yd (45 m) gray. 2-ply laceweight kid mohair/ merino wool/microfiber blend (5,000 yd [4,572 m]/lb): 46 yd (42 m) light blue.

Shown here: Rowan Kidsilk Night (67% kid mohair, 18% silk, 10% polyester, 5% nylon; 227 yd [207.5 m]/25 g): #608 Moonlight (gray). Crystal Palace Kid Merino (28% kid mohair, 28% merino wool, 44% microfiber; 240 yd [219.5 m]/25 g): #4681 Misty Blue (light blue).

Warping

Wind each weft color separately on a stick shuttle.

Warp the loom (see page 24), following the specifications on page 77.

Weaving

Weave under moderate tension so as not to break the fine threads and use a soft hand when beating in the weft shots. Weave an inch or two header to spread the warp ends (see page 40). Leaving a 30" (76 cm) tail to use for hemstitching later, with gray, weave 1" (2.5 cm). Thread the weft tail on a tapestry needle and use it to hemstitch (see page 120) around two warps and two wefts at the starting end of the scarf. Weave 34" (86.5 cm), ending at the right selvedge. Cut the weft, leaving a 30" (76 cm) tail. Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and use it to hemstitch as before.

Advance the warp so that there is a 4" (10 cm) gap from the end of the first scarf, then repeat the process with light blue for the second scarf.

Finishing

Remove the fabric from the loom (see page 46), leaving at least 2" (5 cm) loom waste at each end for fringe. Remove the waste yarn from the header. With sharp scissors, cut the two scarf sections apart in the center of the 4" (10 cm) gap between the woven sections. Washing is not necessary. Trim the fringe on each end of each scarf to 1" (2.5 cm) with a rotary cutter against a self-healing mat.