Tweed So Fine

weaving fine fabrics on the rigid heddle loom is simply a matter of doubling or tripling fine yarns to create beautiful basketweave fabric. This type of fabric practically spills off the loom. Basketweave is formed when groups of two or more wefts weave under and over equal groups of two or more warps. In this scarf, three ends of a fingering-weight wool-silk yarn are used as a single warp end and weft pick. Using a combination of mossy colors creates a sophisticated masculine look.

Finished Dimensions

About 5¼" (13.5 cm) wide by 64" (162.5 cm) long, plus 4½" (11.5 cm) fringe at each end.

Weave Structure

Basketweave.

Equipment

8-dent rigid heddle with 6" (15 cm) weaving width; one stick shuttle.

Warp and Weft Specifications

Sett (epi)

8.

Weaving Width

6" (15 cm).

Picks per Inch (ppi)

10.

Warp Length

100" (256 cm; includes 30" [76 cm] for loom waste and take-up; 9" [23 cm] of the loom waste is used for fringe).

Number of Warp Ends

48 (using three ends as one).

Yarns

Warp

2-ply fingering-weight wool/silk blend (5,040 yd [4,608.5 m]/lb): 134 yd (122.5 m) each of tan, forest green, and blue.

Shown here: Jaggerspun 2/18 Zephyr Wool/Silk (50% wool, 50% silk; 5,040 yd [4,608.5 m]): Suede (tan), Bottle Green (forest green), and Marine Blue (blue).

Weft

2/18 fingering-weight wool/silk blend (5,040 yd [4,608.5 m]/lb): 130 yd (119 m) each of tan, forest green, and blue.

Shown here: Jaggerspun 2/18 Zephyr Wool/Silk (50% wool, 50% silk; 5,040 yd [4,608.5 m]/lb): Suede (tan), Bottle Green (forest green), and Marine Blue (blue).

Warping

Place each cone or ball of yarn in a container to keep the warp from tangling while winding the warp and stick shuttle. Use the three yarns together as one.

Warp the loom (see page 24) according to the specifications on page 81. The loom waste will be used for fringe so be sure to allow 4½" (11.5 cm) of warp length when tying the warp onto the front apron rod.

Weaving

Weave an inch or two with scrap yarn to spread the warp ends (see page 40). Leaving a 30" (76 cm) tail to use for hemstitching later, weave for 1" (2.5 cm). Thread the weft tail on a tapestry needle and use it to hemstitch (see page 120) around two warps and wefts at the starting end of the scarf. Weave 69" (175 cm) more, then cut the weft, leaving a 30" (76 cm) tail. Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and use it to hemstitch as before.

Finishing

Remove the fabric from the loom (see page 46), leaving at least 4½" (11.5 cm) of loom waste at each end for fringe. Remove the scrap yarn in the header.

Handwash with delicate soap, then rinse. Roll the piece in a towel to remove excess moisture, then lay flat to dry. Trim fringe to 4" (10 cm) by hand or with a rotary cutter.