the obi is the outermost sash worn with a Japanese kimono. Typically it is quite long and wraps around the body several times. This modernized version uses a color reversal so that you see two different patterns as it wraps around the body. The warp-faced fabric is stiff enough to hold its shape, while the bamboo provides drape and sheen. The patterning is a result of alternating dark and light threads in the warp and weft. Long twisted fringe provides an elegant finished look that enables a knot to be tied without wrinkling the cloth.
About 3¾" (9.5 cm) wide by 62" (157.5 cm) long, with 10½" (26.5 cm) fringe at each end.
Warp-faced plain weave.
Equipment
12-dent rigid heddle with 4" (10 cm) weaving width; one 4" (10 cm) belt or inkle (beveled-edge) shuttle.
Sett (epi)
12.
Weaving Width
6¾" (17 cm).
Picks per Inch (ppi)
10.
Warp Length
124" (315 cm; includes 30" [76 cm] for loom waste and take-up, and 10" [25.5 cm] for sampling).
Number of Warp Ends
81.
Warp Color Order
[1 light, 2 dark, 3 light, 5 dark, 3 light, 2 dark] 5 times, end 1 light.
Warp
4-ply light worsted-weight (DK) bamboo (1,050 yd [960 m]/lb): 124 yd light green, 155 yd (142 m) dark green.
Shown here: Halcyon Yarn Satin Bamboo (100% bamboo; 200 yd [183 m]/3 oz): #23 (light green) and #24 (dark green).
Weft
4-ply light worsted-weight (DK) bamboo (1,050 yd [960 m]/lb): 42 yd (38.5 m) light green and 42 (38.5 m) yd dark green. Additional yarn will be needed for sampling.
Shown here: Halcyon Yarn Satin Bamboo (100% bamboo; 200 yd [183 m]/3 oz): #23 (light green) and #24 (dark green).
The trick to weaving warp-faced fabric is to use a firm consistent beat that will maintain the cloth’s width evenly throughout the weaving process. Use a belt or inkle shuttle that has a beveled edge and that is about the width of your fabric. Instead of beating with the rigid heddle, use the shuttle to press the weft into place. Use the 10" (25.5 cm) of sampling warp to practice your beat.
Pack as much yarn on the shuttle as you can (ideally the entire length of this weft) without interfering with the warp as you weave—joins in warp-faced fabrics are more likely to show. If you can’t get all of the yarn on the smaller shuttle, consider using a larger shuttle.
Warp the loom (see page 24) following the specifications on page 93.
Wind the dark green on the shuttle, leaving the beveled edge free of yarn (see page 106).
Because this is a warp-faced fabric, there’s no need to use scrap yarn to spread the warp. Instead, you want the warp to spread as little as possible. In the first shed, bring the yarn to just the point where the warp begins to show gaps from being tied onto the apron rod. Change sheds without bringing the rigid heddle forward, use the sharp edge of the shuttle to press the weft yarn into place. Continue by throwing a pick, changing sheds without bringing the rigid heddle to the fell of the cloth, then pressing the yarn into place. Place the weft at an angle of about 20 degrees (the warp will do most of the bending in the under-over sequence, not the weft). Change sheds, again without bringing the reed to the fell. Then use the sharp edge of the shuttle to press the weft firmly into place. Practice for the length of your sample warp to achieve even tension and straight selvedges.
Advance the warp, leaving a 12" (30.5 cm) gap between the sample and the beginning of the belt fabric (this will be used for fringe). Insert two shots of fine scrap yarn to hold the bamboo picks in place when you cut the cloth from the loom.
Begin weaving with dark green for 31" (78.5 cm) maintaining a firm and even beat. Check the width often and unweave picks as necessary if the width changes. Change to light green and weave for 31" (78.5 cm) more. Finish by weaving another two picks with fine scrap yarn.
Remove the fabric from the loom (see page 46), leaving 12" (30.5 cm) of loom waste at each end for fringe. Remove the two picks of scrap yarn.
Using two groups of two warp ends at a time, make twisted fringe (see page 121) along each short end of the obi. Tie an overhand knot about 2" (5 cm) from the end of each twisted fringe, taking care to make the knots all the same distance from the cloth. Trim the ends evenly.
It isn’t necessary to wash the belt before wearing. When it is time to launder, handwash the belt in lukewarm water with gentle soap. Rinse, then roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Lay flat to dry.
