linen and leno are a natural combination. Linen, which comes from stiff plant fibers derived from the flax plant, provides a crisp finished look and high sheen. Fabrics woven from this fiber are called “linens.” Leno is a form of lace where crossed warp threads are held in place by the weft. Use your fingers to cross the threads, then hold them in place with a pick-up stick while the weft is thrown to secure them in position. Simple to do, leno adds a decorative look to simple fabrics. The more rows of leno you work, the lacier the look.
About 10¼" (26 cm) wide by 35" (89 cm) long, with 2" (5 cm) fringe at each end.
Balanced plain weave with leno.
10-dent rigid heddle with 11" (28 cm) weaving width; one stick shuttle; one pick-up stick.
Sett (epi)
10.
Weaving Width
10¾" (27.5 cm).
Picks per Inch (ppi)
6.
Warp Length
53" (134.5 cm; includes 24" [61 cm] for loom waste and take-up). Note: The loom waste is calculated as fringe to allow just one skein for the warp.
Number of Warp Ends
108.
Warp
Worsted-weight wet-spun linen (870 yd [795.5 m]/lb): 190 yd (173.5 m) red.
Shown here: Louet North America Euroflax Wet-Spun Linen (100% linen; 190 yd [173.5 m]/100 g): #11 Red.
Weft
Worsted-weight wet-spun linen (870 yd [795.5 m]/lb): 80 yd (73 m) berry red.
Shown here: Louet North America Euroflax Wet-Spun Linen (100% linen; 70 yd [64 m]/100 g): #23 Berry Red.
Warp the loom (see page 24) following the specifications on page 113.
Wind a shuttle with the entire length of weft.
Weave an inch or two header to spread the warp ends (see page 40).
Leaving a 40" (101.5 cm) tail for hemstitching later, work plain weave for 1½" (3.8 cm). Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and hemstitch (see page 120) over two warps and two wefts.
Work one row of leno following the instructions at right.
Weave 35" (89 cm), then work another row of leno, then work plain weave for 1½" (3.8 cm). Cut the weft, leaving a 40" (101.5 cm) tail and hemstitch as before.
Remove the fabric from the loom (see page 46), leaving several inches of warp at each end for fringe. Remove the header.
Handwash the fabric in lukewarm water with delicate soap. Rinse. Roll in a towel to squeeze out excess moisture and lay flat to dry.
Using a rotary cutter against a self-healing mat, trim the fringe to 2" (5 cm).
Leno
Leno is worked by crossing the warp threads over one another in groups of two.
Step 1: Working from the right, pull the edge warp end up and over the warp end to the left.
Step 2: Slip a pick-up stick between the crossed warp threads to hold them in place.
Step 3: Cross the next warp end over its neighbor and slip the pick-up stitch between them. Continue in this manner across the entire width of the warp.
Step 4: Rotate the pick-up stick on its side to create a new shed and pass the shuttle in front of the pick-up stick.
Step 5: Push the pick-up stick to the fell of the cloth to straighten the twists, then remove the pick-up stick.
Step 6: Change shed, weave another pick as usual, then use the rigid heddle to straighten the weft.
1. Lift and cross the edge warp end over adjacent warp end.
2. Insert the pick-up stick between the crossed warp ends.
3. Cross the next two warp ends and insert the stick between them.
4. Cross adjacent warp ends across the entire warp width.
5. Turn the pick-up stick on its side to create a new shed.
6. Push the pick-up stick to the fell to straighten the twists.
7. Change the shed and weave another pick as usual.
8. Pack the weft with the rigid heddle.