t Viaduct that now forms part of the luxuriant Monte Palace Tropical Gardens
B7 @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
t Viaduct that now forms part of the luxuriant Monte Palace Tropical Gardens
Monte has been a favourite destination for visitors since the late 19th century, when a rack-and-pinion railway was built to haul cruise liner passengers up the hillside from Funchal (now replaced by a teleférico, p352). Coming down, they would take the famous Monte Toboggan ride.
Toboggan-drivers in straw hats wait for passengers every day on the corner of Caminho do Monte, and they run (for a fee) to Livramento and on to Funchal. From the church steps, past the drivers’ corner, a left turn signposted “Old Monte Gardens” leads to the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens. These gardens feature areas devoted to Madeiran flora and plants from Japan and China, as well as azaleas, camellias and orchids. The museum exhibits precious stones and minerals, as well as contemporary Zimbabwean sculpture.
To reach the gardens, you pass the twin-towered church of Nossa Senhora do Monte. The Virgin of Monte is Madeira’s patron saint and this church is the focal point of the pilgrimage that takes place on 15 August (when penitents climb the church’s steps on their knees).
" # 9:30am–6pm daily; museum: 10am–4:30pm ¢ 25 Dec ∑ montepalace.com
great View
Accessed from the top end of Funchal’s Jardim Botânico, this cable car passes high over the forested João Gomes river valley to hilltop Monte in just 10 minutes.
B7 ⌂ Sìtio do Balançal, Sâo Gonçalo @ # 9am–5:30pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec ∑ palheirogardens.com
A French landscape architect laid out the Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro – Madeira’s finest gardens – in the 18th century for the wealthy Count of Carvalhal, who built the elegant mansion (not open to visitors) and the Baroque chapel in the garden.
The estate was acquired in 1885 by the Anglo-Madeiran Blandy family, hence its English name: Blandy’s Gardens. New species were introduced from South Africa, Australia and China, resulting in a garden that combines the clipped formality of late-18th-century layout with the profusion of English-style herbaceous borders, as well as tropical and temperate climate varieties.
Experience Madeira
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Stay Vila Teresinha Some of the pleasant rooms in this townhouse have balconies with great views over the city. B7 ⌂ Rua das Cruzes 21, Funchal ∑ vilateresinha.com ¡¡ ¡ Quinta de Casa Branca A Modernist boutique hotel set in its own semitropical grounds, with a fabulous health centre and restaurant. B7 ⌂ Rua da Casa Branca 7, Funchal ∑ quintacasabranca.com ¡¡¡ |
B7 @ n O Relógio, Largo Conselheiro Aires de Ornelas 12; 291 922 777
Most of the wicker products sold in Funchal are made in and around Camacha, and the sole attraction in this otherwise sleepy village is a large shop packed with everything wicker, from picture frames, bedsteads and cradles to peacock-backed armchairs. It is often possible to see weavers at work in the factory, which is open from 9am to 7pm daily, bending the pliant stripped willow round a frame to produce a linen basket or plant-pot container. A Noah’s Ark full of paired animals is displayed on the middle floor as an advertisement of the local wicker-weavers’ skills.
B7 @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
Legend has it that Machico was named after Robert Machim, a merchant from Bristol, who eloped with the aristocratic Anne of Hertford and set sail for Portugal. Caught in a storm and shipwrecked on Madeira, the two lovers died from exposure. The rest of the crew repaired the boat and sailed to Lisbon, where their story inspired Prince Henry the Navigator to send João Gonçalves Zarco in search of this mysterious wooded island.
Machico has been Madeira’s second most important town since the first settlements. Funchal’s superior location and harbour ensured that it developed as the capital of Madeira while Machico became a sleepy agricultural town.
The Igreja Matriz on Largo do Município, dates from the 15th century. Across the river is the Capela dos Milagres (Chapel of the Miracles). The present structure dates from 1815, but it stands on the site of Madeira’s first church. The earlier church of 1420 was destroyed in a flood in 1803, but the 15th-century crucifix was found floating out at sea. Machico celebrates the return of its cross with a procession on 8 October.
t The 15th-century church on Machico’s main square
Experience Madeira
Originally developed in the 1850s to transport produce to market, the toboggan now takes tourists on a thrilling 2-km (1-mile) descent from hilltop Monte to Livramento. The wicker baskets are steered by carreiros (toboggan-drivers) who control the speedy descent with their rubber-soled boots.
Villages on the north coast of Madeira have sea-water pools for cooling dips.
B7 @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
t Whale models hanging from the ceiling in the Museu da Baleia, Caniçal
Caniçal was once the centre of Madeira’s whaling industry: the whaling scenes for John Huston’s film version of Moby Dick (1956) were shot here. Whaling ceased in June 1981, and since then the waters around Madeira have been declared a marine mammal sanctuary – killing whales, dolphins and seals is now forbidden. Fishermen who once hunted whales now help marine biologists at the Society for the Protection of Sea Mammals understand whale migrations.
The modern Museu da Baleia (Whaling Museum) illustrates the history of the island’s whaling industry through hunting tools, artifacts and vintage photographs. There are also several life-like models of whales.
" ⌂ Rua Garcia Moniz 1 # Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 24, 25 & 26 Dec ∑ museudabaleia.org
B7 @ n Rua do Sacristão, Sítio do Serrado; 291 575 162
Named after St Anne, mother of the Virgin Mary, Santana has more than 100 thatched triangular houses, several of which can be visited. The surrounding hillsides are also dotted with thatched byres. The Parque Temático da Madeira has a maze, a water mill and exhibits on various aspects of Madeira.
Santana valley is farmed for fruit and vegetables, and for osiers – the willow branches that provide the raw material for the wicker-workers of Camacha.
" ⌂ Fonte da Pedra # Apr–Oct: 10am–7pm daily (to 6pm Nov–Mar) ∑ parquetematicodamadeira.pt
Built from two A-shaped timber frames, with a thatched roof, these triangular houses are unique to Madeira. The doors and windows are brightly painted and the interiors are surprisingly spacious.
B7 @ From Funchal
Ribeiro Frio is a pretty spot consisting of a couple of restaurants, shops and a trout farm, fed by the “cold stream” after which the place is named.
Surrounding the trout farm is an attractive garden full of native trees and shrubs. This is the starting point for two of the island’s best levada walks. The 12-km (7-mile) path signposted to Portela (on the right past the restaurants) passes through dramatic mountain scenery but is best left to experienced walkers because of the long tunnels and steep drops. Easier is the 20-minute walk on the left signposted to Balcões, which grants panoramic views across the Ametade river valley.
B7 @ To Camacha, then taxi
From Funchal it is about a 30-minute drive up the Pico do Arieiro, Madeira’s third-highest mountain at 1,810 m (5,938 ft). The route leads through steep hillsides cloaked in eucalyptus and bay laurel. At the top, the spectacular view is of clouds in the valleys and dramatic mountain ridges with knife-edge peaks. On especially clear days you may be able to see the neighbouring island of Porto Santo.
B7 @ To Santana or Faial, then taxi to Achada do Teixeira, then walk
t Walking the trail along the red peaks at the summit of Pico Ruivo
Madeira’s highest mountain at 1,861 m (6,105 ft), Pico Ruivo is only accessible on foot. The easiest way to scale its heights is via a footpath that begins at the village of Achada do Teixeira and leads you on a 45-minute walk to the top.
Alternatively, follow the challenging route from the top of Pico do Arieiro, which involves negotiating narrow ridges with sheer drops on either side. Awe-inspiring mountain scenery and glorious views can be enjoyed all along the 10-km (6-mile) walk.
Experience Madeira
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eat Quinta do Furao The terrace views here will take your breath away. The menu has a good range of fish, meat and vegetarian options. B7 ⌂ Achada do Gramacho, near Santana ∑ quintadofurao.com ¡¡ ¡ Vila do Peixe Overlooking the harbour, this contemporary space serves sublime grilled fish from the daily catch. A7 ⌂ Rua Dr Abel de Freitas, Câmara de Lobos ∑ viladopeixe.com ¡¡ ¡ |
A7 @ To Canhas, then taxi
t Steep road twisting and turning on the way up to the Paúl da Serra
The Paúl da Serra (literally meaning “high moorland”) is a large, boggy plateau, extending 17 km (11 miles) in length and 6 km (4 miles) in width. The plain contrasts dramatically with the jagged mountains that characterize the rest of Madeira.
Electricity for the north of the island is generated here by wind turbines. Only gorse and grass grow on the thin soil, and the sponge-like volcanic substrata act as a natural reservoir for rainfall. Water filters through the rock to emerge as springs which then feed the island’s levada system.
B7 @ n Avenida Arriga 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
Curral das Freiras means “Nuns’ Refuge” and the name refers to the nuns of the Santa Clara convent who fled to this idyllic spot when pirates attacked Funchal in 1566. The nuns have left now, but the village remains. Visitors first glimpse Curral das Freiras from a viewpoint known as the Eira do Serrado, perched some 800 m (2,625 ft) above the village.
The valley is surrounded on all sides by jagged mountain peaks. Until 1959, the only access to the village was by a steep zigzagging path, but road tunnels now make the journey much easier and allow local people to transport their produce to the capital. Television arrived in 1986.
The sweet chestnuts that grow in profusion around the village are turned into sweet chestnut bread, best eaten still warm from the oven, and licor de castanha, a chestnut-flavoured liqueur. Both can be sampled in local bars.
Experience Madeira
In the 16th century, ships stopping at Funchal would take on barrels of local wine. This unfortified Madeira often spoiled during the voyage, so shippers started adding spirit to preserve it. The wine then seemed to improve after a long, hot voyage, and quality Madeira began to be sent on round trips as an alternative to maturing it in Funchal’s lodges. This expensive method was replaced with the estufa system, still very much in use today. Large volumes of wine are heated to between 30 and 50°C (86 and 122°F) for a period of three months to a year. The effect is to hurry up the ageing process: the best wines are “cooked” more gently and slowly. The finest Madeirans are heated by the sun, maturing slowly in the attics of the wine lodges. Most Madeira is made from the Tinta Negra Mole grape, often blended with either Sercia, Bual, Verdelho or Malmsey.
A7 @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
t The beautifully decorated interior of São Vicente’s church
The agricultural town of São Vincente grew prosperous by tempting travellers to break their journeys here as they explore Madeira’s northern coast. To see how the village looked before development began, visit the Igreja Matriz, which was built in the 17th century, and look at the ceiling painting of St Vincent blessing the town. He appears again over the elaborately carved main altar, blessing a ship.
Around the church, cobbled traffic-free streets are lined with boutiques, bars and shops selling sweet cakes, including the popular Madeiran speciality bolo de mel, the so-called “honey cake” (actually made with molasses and fruit).
Nearly 20 m (65 ft) below the ground is a network of caves, the Grutas e Centro do Vulcanismo de São Vicente, which formed 850,000 years ago during a volcanic eruption. Visitors can walk the 1-km (0.6-mile) trail of excavated lava channels dripping with stalactites. By the caves’ entrance is the Volcanism Centre. Inside, the centre presents audio-visual shows recreating the geological evolution of the caves, the eruption of a volcano and the birth of the Madeira archipelago.
Around 8 km (5 miles) northwest is Seixal. Despite the storms that batter the coast, this village occupies a remarkably sheltered spot, where vineyards cling to the hillside terraces, producing excellent wine.
⌂ Sitio do Pé do Passo # 10am–6pm daily ∑ grutasecentrodovulcanismosaovicente.com
A7 @ n Rua dos Emigrantes, Vila do Porto Moniz; 291 853 075
It is only a 75-km (47-mile)journey to this remote coastal village, on the northwest tip of Madeira, from the bright lights of Funchal.
Porto Moniz is surrounded by a patchwork pattern of tiny fields that are protected by fences made from tree heather, a necessary precaution against the heavy, salt-laden air that blows in off the Atlantic. Apart from its picturesque charm, the main attraction at Porto Moniz is the series of natural rock pools on the foreshore, where you can swim in sun-warmed water.
A7 @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
Calheta sits at the centre of what sugar-cane production survives in Madeira. The smell of cane syrup being extracted and turned into rum hangs around the village from the factory. The Centro das Artes Casa das Mudas provides a more contemporary setting. Picasso is among the artists whose work is exhibited here.
The Igreja Matriz looks modern but dates from 1430 and contains a large ebony and silver tabernacle donated by Manuel I. There is also a fine wooden ceiling.
Calheta’s main attraction is its beach, which is Madeira’s only one with golden sands. In fact, the sand is imported from Africa and locals complain that it is only borrowed, as winter storms often wash it back to the continent again. This yearly loss doesn’t stop hundreds of families descending on this sheltered beach.
" ⌂ Estrada Simão Gonçalves da Câmara 37, Calheta # 10am– 5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols ∑ cultura.madeira-edu.pt
Madeira possesses a unique irrigation system that enables the plentiful rainfall of the north of the island to be distributed to the drier south. Rainfall is stored in reservoirs and lakes, or channelled from natural springs, and fed into the network of levadas that ring the island. These narrow channels carry water long distances to banana groves, vineyards and market gardens. There are 1,500 km (932 miles) of canals, some dating back to the 1500s.
The date of the oldest surviving bottle of Madeira.
A7 @ n Forte de São Bento; 291 951 675
t São Bento church with a charming clock tower, Ribeira Brava
Ribeira Brava is a small resort town, situated on the sunny south coast of Madeira. It has a pebble beach and a fishing harbour, which is reached through a tunnel to the east of the main town.
Overlooking the principal square, São Bento is one of the Madeira’s most unspoiled churches. Despite restoration and reconstruction, several of its 16th-century features are still intact. These include a stone-carved font and an ornate pulpit decorated with wild beasts such as wolves, and the Flemish painting of the Nativity in the side chapel.
The engaging Museu Etnográfico da Madeira has exhibits illustrating Madeiran culture and society.
⌂ Rua São Francisco 24 # 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–12:30pm, 1:30– 5:30pm Sat ¢ Public hols ∑ cultura.madeira-edu.pt
A7 @ n Avenida Arriaga 16, Funchal; 291 211 902
This pretty fishing village was painted by Winston Churchill, who often visited Madeira in the 1950s. Bars and restaurants are named in his honour and a plaque marks the spot on the main road, east of the harbour, where the great statesman set up his easels. This is one of Madeira’s main centres for catching scabbard fish (peixe espada), which feature on every local menu. Long lines are baited with octopus to catch these fish that dwell at depths of between 800 m (2,600 ft) and 1,600 m (5,250 ft). The fishermen live in dwellings along the harbour front, and their tiny chapel dates from the 15th century, but was rebuilt in 1723. The chapel is dedicated to St Nicholas, the patron saint of seafarers, and is decorated with scenes from the saint’s life, as well as vivid portrayals of drownings and shipwrecks.
Hidden Gem
Near Calheta, you’ll find one of Madeira’s most delightful villages. Sitting below cliffs, Jardim do Mar befits its name "Garden by the Sea". Take a stroll down its seafront promenade or through its twisting-turning alleyways.
C6 ~ g n Avenida Dr Manuel Gregório Pestana Júnior; 291 985 244
t Part of Porto Santo’s splendid 9-km (5.5-mile) sandy beach
Porto Santo, an island 37 km (23 miles) northeast of Madeira, is smaller, flatter and drier than its sister island. It possesses something that Madeira lacks: a natural beach of golden sand, running the entire length of the island’s south coast. There is a daily ferry between Funchal and Porto Santo, which takes 2 hours and 30 minutes. There are also daily flights that take just 15 minutes.
Porto Santo is a popular holiday destination, with hotels and holiday resorts of villas and apartments. Snorkelling is good and bicycles can be hired.
The Casa de Colombo (House of Christopher Columbus) is built from rough stone, and contains exhibits that tell Columbus’s story.
⌂ Travessa da Sacristia 2, Vila Baleira § 291 983 405 # Jul–Sep: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun; Oct–Jun: 10am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Mon, Wed–Sat, 10am–12:30pm Sun