INDEX

Page numbers in boldface indicate recipe.

A

Adam and Eve on a Raft, 194

Additives, 10

African cooking, 127

African Spiced Bread, 35, 137-38

Almonds, 24

toasting, 131

Alphabet Bread Sticks, 190-91

Anadama Bread, 64, 157

Anchovies, 88

Penne with Broccoli and, 164

Another Foolproof Chocolate Icing, 117

Apples, 24, 177

caramelized, 99

Sautéed, and Cream on Toast, 179

Apricot(s), 24, 27

caramelized, 99

Filling, 104

Focaccia, 24, 106-107, 135

-Plum Pudding, 128-29

Art of Eating, The (newsletter), 22

Artichokes, 90, 91

Arugula, 94, 174

and Prosciutto, Bruschetta with, 153

Paste, Very Thin Pizza with, 94

Aubergine, 25, 155

B

Baguette(s), 8, 19, 34

French, 58-59

olive, 44

Rosemary Filoncino, 40-41

Baked beans, 62, 76

Suzanne’s Version of Boston, 77

Baking, 12

holiday, 8

reasons for, 11

tactile pleasures of, 18

tenets for, 12-15

tips on, 28

Balsamic Vinegar

term, 28

White Bean and, Soup, 174

Bananas, 24, 177

Basic Pizza Crust, 83-84

Basil, 88

Bruschetta with Tomato and, 152

Beans

in soup, 174

see also Baked beans

Beaten Biscuits, My Grandmother’s, 19, 27, 63, 70-71

Beer yeasts, 29

Behr, Edward, 22

Berberé, 137, 139

Biga, 17, 21, 29, 30, 31

Buttermilk Bread, 68

Ciabatta, 42

English Muffins, 78

Filoncino Integrale, 48

My Grandmother’s Beaten Biscuits, 70

My Mother’s Sourdough Biscuits, 66

Pane Casereccio, 53

Pane Rustico, 56

Pizza Bianca alla Romana, 85

Rosemary-Pepper Bread Sticks, 142

Sourdough Caraway Rye, 50

Bigmama’s Kolaches, 24, 102-3

Biscotti, 34

Biscuits, 8, 25, 63

My Grandmother’s Beaten, 19, 27, 63, 70-71

My Mother’s Sourdough, 66-67

Blini, Buckwheat, 75

Boston Baked Beans,

Suzanne’s Version of, 77

Boston Brown Bread, 8, 16, 62, 76

Boule, 13, 14

Bread(s), 8-11, 13

basic, 9, 10, 20, 31

and Butter Pudding,

Classic, 177

and Cheese Soufflé, 20, 161

for children, 186-194

commercial, 24, 34

crisp, 36

daily, 10, 20, 34-59

for dessert, 176-180

Hazelnut-Sage, 44

in pasta and rice, 163-169

quick, 83

salt-free, 23

temperatures, 19

Bread crumbs, 146, 147, 163, 167, 177, 182-83

exotic, 181-83

Bread pudding(s), 176

brioche in, 100

Chocolate, 146, 147, 178

Bread salads, 146, 148-50

Bread soufflé(s), 73, 146, 161-62

Bread and Cheese, 20, 161

with Salmon and Capers, 162

Bread soup(s), 146, 170-75

Tuscan, 171

Bread sticks, 19, 36, 126-43

Alphabet, 190-91

Rosemary-Pepper, 20, 142-43

Breakfast breads, 24, 100

focaccia, 38

Brewer’s yeast, 29

Brioche, 12, 26, 146, 147

Classic, 18, 100-101, 177

dough, 30

Broccoli and Anchovies, Penne with, 164

Broccoli rape, 163, 166

Orecchiette with, and Hot Peppers, 166

Brownie Scout Chocolate Cake, 99, 116

Bruschetta, 23, 146

with Arugula and Prosciutto, 153

with Caponata, 155

Hazelnut-Sage and goat cheese, 46

with Olive Paste, 156

with Roasted Garlic and Parmesan, 158

with Shellfish, 159

with Sweet Peppers and Tuna, 154

with Tomato and Basil, 152

with Wild Mushrooms, 157

Bruschette, 56, 151-59

Bruschettine, 44, 147, 160, 181

Buckwheat Blini, 75

Bulgar wheat, 24

Bunyettes, 38

Buona Forchetta Hand Made Breads, 9, 10, 19, 23, 25, 34, 44, 146, 147, 148

Butter, 8, 28, 99, 177

for bread crumbs, 182

in panettone, 130

term, 27

Buttermilk Bread, 68

C

Caen, Herb, 20

Cake(s), 99

Brownie Scout Chocolate, 99, 116

cornmeal, 113

Gabriella’s Ricotta, 24, 99, 114

Gingerbread, 118

Sourdough Lemon, 99, 112

Campfire Roly-Polys, 193

Candied Orange and Lemon Peel, 132

Capers, Bread Soufflé with Salmon and, 162

Caponata, Bruschetta with, 155

Caramel, Pears in, with Cheese on Toast, 24, 25, 147, 180

Carbohydrates, 21

Carrot, Celeriac, Onion and Parmesan Soup, 172

Cashews, 24

Cassata, 98

Caviar, 75, 127

Celeriac, Carrot, Onion, and Parmesan Soup, 172

Chappati, 126

dough, 108

Quick, for Curry, 20, 136

Cheese, 9, 25

Bread and, Soufflé, 20, 161

and pasta dishes, 163

Pears in Caramel with, on Toast, 24, 25, 147, 180

on pizza, 91

Cheesecakes, cottage cheese in, 24

Chicken Stock, Suzanne’s Rich, 175

Children, 19, 34, 63

bread for, 186-94

bread sticks, 127

Chilli pepper,

corn bread, 8

Chilli powder, 27, 72

Chocolate Bread Pudding, 146, 147, 178

Chocolate Cake, Brownie Scout, 99, 116

Chocolate Ice Cream, Wild Turkey, 122

Chocolate Icing

Another Foolproof, 117

Foolproof, 117

Chocolate Tozzetti, 120-21

“Chowder pieces,” 162

Christmas, 8

panettone, 130

Ciabatta, 14, 20, 21, 26, 42-43

Ciccone, Virgilio, 87, 148

Cinnamon

bread sticks, 191

focaccia, 24

pinwheels, 8

Classic Bread and Butter

Pudding, 177

Classic Brioche, 18, 100-101, 177

Coffee (term), 28

Cold dough method, 10, 11

Collioure, 38

Colombo, 132

Cooke, John, 16

Cooking, tips on, 28

Cooking diary, 16

Cooking implements, 16-18

Corn Bread, Skillet, 10, 27, 63, 72

Cornmeal, 63

Spoon Bread, 73

Torta della Nonna, Golden, 113

Coriander (Cilantro), 94

Cottage cheese, 24, 114

Filling, 105

Covered bread pan method, 54

Cracked wheat, 24

Cracker dough, 12

Cream

Sautéed Apples and, on Toast, 179

term, 28

Cream bread,

My Mother’s (Pain de Mie), 54, 63, 65

Croutons, 46, 147, 182-83

exotic, 181-83

Crumb,

Brownie Scout Chocolate Cake, 116

Pane Rustico, 56

Rosemary Filoncino, 40

rye bread, 50

texture, 26

Whole Wheat Bread, 54

Crust, 9, 12, 13, 14, 26, 30

Basic Pizza, 83-84

Fougasse de Collioure, 38

Pane Rustico, 56

rye bread, 50

Cumin, 24

Currants, 24

Curry,

Quick Chappati for, 20, 136

D

Dairy products, 10, 21, 23-24

Dash (term), 28

Dates, 24

Desserts, 98, 99

bread, 146, 176-80

children’s recipes, 193

Deville, John, 192

Diced (term), 27

Diet, 21

Dill Pickles, Shimek, 52

Dough

additions to, 9

basic, 10, 36-38

intuition regarding, 26-27

mixing, 25-26

shaping, 19-20

temperatures, 19

wetter than conventional, 12, 13, 14, 26, 30, 42

yeast in, 22-23

Drago, Celestino, 100

Dried fruits, 24, 54

Dried herbs, 183

Dried spices, 27

Dried vegetables, 25

Durum flour, 21

E

Easter kulich, 126

Eating as art, 8

Eggs, 23, 26, 130, 190, 194

Egyptian, 186, 189

term, 27

Egyptian eggs, 186, 189

el Din, Hamsa, 137

Elasticity, 26, 27

Emotions

and bread baking, 70

and cooking, 20

English Muffins, 62, 78-79

F

Failures, 27

Fats, 10, 21, 23-24

Fennel, wild, 168

Fermentations, 30, 31, 35

Figs, 24

Filling

Apricot, 104

Cottage Cheese, 24, 105

for Kolaches, 104-105

Poppy Seed, 104

Prune, 105

Filoncini, 9, 13

Filoncino

Hazelnut-Sage, 25, 27, 46-47, 147

Integrale, 48-49, 108

Kalamata Olive, 44-45

Olive, 34, 147, 156

Rosemary, 20, 26, 40-41

Fish

in pasta dishes, 168

in soufflé, 162

Flapjacks, Sourdough, 74

Flatbreads, 10, 12-13, 44

basic dough for, 36-38

Flavour(s),

Ciabatta, 42

combining, 10

Flaxseeds, 24

Flour(s), 20-22, 23, 25, 27, 29, 30, 31, 38

in baguettes, 58

in pizza, 82, 83

rye, 50

term, 27

Focacce, 4, 15

Focaccette, 36

Focaccia, 9, 10, 12, 14-15, 19, 20, 24, 26, 30, 31, 35, 44, 110

antipasto, 83

Apricot, 24, 106-107

apricots in, 27

basic dough for flatbreads or loaves, 36-38

bread crumbs for, 163

Kalamata, 25

mixing dough for, 26

old dough method for, 30

rosemary, 148

Foolproof Chocolate Icing, 117

Fougasse, 10, 13, 19, 36

de Collioure, 35, 38-39

Four Seasons pizza, 91

French Baguette, 58-59

French toast, 46, 192

Fresh Fruit Purée, 69, 192

Fresh Ricotta, 115

Fresh Scallop Panzanella, 150

Fruit(s), 108, 131, 176

caramelized, 147

dried and fresh, 24-25, 54

Fresh, Purée, 69, 192

purée, 112

Fruitcakes, 8

G

Gabriella’s Ricotta Cake, 24, 99, 114

Garlic, 25, 150, 152, 163

Bruschetta with Roasted, and Parmesan, 158

grilling, 158

Genzano, breads of, 53

Gingerbread Cake, 118

Golden Cornmeal Torta della Nonna, 113

Grains, 24, 54, 108

Grapes, roasted

see Roasted Grapes

Greens, 166

for croutons and bread crumbs, 183

H

Hamburger buns, 36

Hands, 18-20

Hard Sauce, 129

Hazelnut(s), 21, 27

-Sage Bread, 44

-Sage Filoncino, 25, 34, 35, 46-47, 147

Health food stores, 21, 22

Heaping (term), 28

Herbs, 54, 181

dried, 183

fresh, 183

Hot Peppers, Orecchiette with Broccoli Rape and, 166

Housewife’s Bread, 10, 14, 21, 53-54, 146

Houston, 66

Hush puppies, 72

I

Ice Cream, Wild Turkey Chocolate, 122

Icing

Another Foolproof Chocolate, 117

Pink Sugar, 130, 133, 134

Foolproof Chocolate, 117

Indian cuisine, 126

Ingredients, 9, 10

Intuition, 24, 25, 26-27

Italcheese (co.), 87, 148

Italian breads, 15, 34

textures of, 14

Italy

flours of, 21

water, 22

J

Johnnycake pans, 17, 72

Journal of Gastronomy, The, 82

K

Kalamata

focaccia, 25

Olive Filoncino, 44-45

Kneading, 10, 25, 30

limiting, 12, 14-15, 20, 26

Kolaches

Bigmama’s, 24, 102-103

dough, 8

fillings for, 104-105

My Czech Grandmother’s, 99

Kulich, 126

Russian, 10, 132-33, 177

L

Lactobacillus sanfrancisco, 29, 48

Ladder breads, 35, 36, 38

Lago di Como, 42

Lard, 110

Leftovers, 146-183

in desserts, 176

Lemon

Cake, Sourdough, 99, 112

Candied Orange and, Peel, 132

Curd, 119

Like Water for Chocolate, 20

Little toasts, 147

Loaves

basic dough for, 36-38

Log Cabin Scrambles, 186, 190

Lost Bread, 192

M

McGee, Harold, 19, 22, 29, 31, 98

Mascarpone, 98

term, 28

Mashed (term), 27

Milk (term), 28

Millet, 24

Minced (term), 27

Mixing, 25-26, 27

Molasses, 98

Mozzarella, 82, 83, 87, 88, 148, 167

term, 28

Muffins, 24

English, 62, 78-79

Mushrooms, Bruschetta with Wild, 157

My Czech Grandmother’s Kolaches, 99

My Grandmother’s Beaten Biscuits, 19, 27, 63, 70-71

My Mother’s Cream Bread (Pain de Mie), 54, 63, 65, 75

My Mother’s Sourdough Biscuits, 66-67

N

Naan, 126

Naples, pizza of, 83

Nit’r K’ibe, 137, 138

Nuts, 24, 54, 108, 131

O

Oil, Rosemary, 41

Old dough method, 29, 30, 31

Olive(s), 21, 25

bread(s), 160, 163

Filoncino, 34, 147, 156

Filoncino, Kalamata, 44-45

Olive oil, 83, 85, 110

extra-virgin, 15, 151

term, 28

Olive paste, 94

Bruschetta with, 156

On Food and Cooking (McGee), 19, 22, 29

Onion, 25, 89

Carrot, Celeraic, and Parmesan Soup, 172

Orange and Lemon Peel, Candied, 132

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rape and Hot Peppers, 166

Organic flour, 21

Ortiz, Joe, 29

Overnight method

daily breads, 37, 42, 44-45, 46-47, 51, 53-54, 55, 57, 59

focaccia, 37

pizza, 83-84

special breads, 140

sweet loaves, 101, 108, 109

traditional breads, 64, 79

P

Pagnotta, 53, 54, 57

Pain de Mie, 25, 54, 63, 65

Pain Perdu, 8, 192

Pancakes, 24, 27

Pane Casereccio (Housewife’s Bread), 14, 21, 34, 53-54

biga for, 31

Pane Osso, 35, 53

Pane Rustico, 56-57, 75

Pane Trattoria, 35

biga for, 31

Panettone, 10, 16, 126, 130-31, 177

sponge for, 30

Panzanella (bread salad), 146, 148

Fresh Scallop, 150

Tuna, 149

Pappa di Pomodoro, 173

Parmesan, 180

Bruschetta with Roasted Grapes and, 158

Carrot, Celeriac, Onion and, Soup, 172

term, 28

Pashka, 126, 132, 133, 135

Pasta,

al dente, 163

alla puttanesca, 163

bread in, 163-69

con Sarde, 20, 168-69

Pasta sauces, 24

Peaches, 24-25

Pears, 24-25

in Caramel with Cheese on Toast, 25, 147, 180

Pecans, 24

Peel, Candied, 130, 132

Penne

all’arrabbiata, 163

with Broccoli and Anchovies, 164

Pepper (term), 28

Peppers, 25

Bruschetta with Sweet, and Tuna, 154

grilled, 92, 93

Orecchiette with Broccoli Rape and Hot, 166

Perry, Charles, 82

Pickles, Shimek Dill, 52

Pie Crust Pinwheels, 187

Piemonte, 10

Piga, Gabriella, 114

Pine nuts, 24

Pink Sugar Icing, 133, 134

Pistachios, 24

Pizza, 12, 22, 82-95

ai Funghi, 86

alla Griglia, 92-93

bianca, 14, 34, 167

Bianca alla Romana, 85-86

con Carciofi, 90

con Cipolle, 86

con Olio di Tartuffo, 86

con Rughetta (arugula) or Salvia (sage), 86

Crust, Basic, 83-84

dough, 10, 18, 22, 27

Margherita, 87

Napoletana, 88

Quattro Stagione, 91

With Potatoes and Rosemary, 89

Pizza stone, 84

Pizze, 15

square, 19

Plasticity, 26

Plum puddings, 126, 128, 129

Apricot-Plum, 128-29

Plums, 24

Pomodori al Riso, 20

Poppy Seed Filling, 8, 104

Poppy seeds, 24

Potatoes on pizza, 89, 90

Pottery mixing bowl, 17

Preservatives, 9

Prosciutto, Bruschetta with Arugula and, 153

Proteins, 21

in flour, 22, 25

Prune

and Walnut Bread, 108-109

Filling, 105

Pudding

Apricot-Plum, 128-29

Chocolate Bread, 147, 178

Classic Bread and Butter, 177

Pudding moulds, 17

Purée, Fresh Fruit, 69, 192

Puris, 126

Q

Quick Chappati for Curry, 136

R

Raisins, 54, 99, 110

dried, 24

Ramos, Leonel, 9

Red Flame grapes, 99, 111

Red wine, 21

Reggiano Rocca, 28

Rice

bread in, 163-69

Ricotta, 114

Cake, Gabriella’s, 24, 99, 114

Fresh, 115

Roasted Grapes, 27, 177

Schiacciata with, 10, 24, 99, 110-11

Suzanne’s, 111

Rolls, 8, 13, 24

Truffle, 10, 20, 140-41

Roman Dipping Cookies, 120-21

Rome, 34

pizza of, 82, 83

Rosemary, 15, 40

bread, 159

Filoncini, 26

Filoncino, 20, 40-41

Oil, 41

-Pepper Bread Sticks, 20, 142-43

on pizza, 89

Rotelle alla Romana, 165

Rough and ragged (term), 28

Russian Easter, 126

Russian Kulich, 10, 132-33, 177

Rye, 24

Rye breads, 8

Sourdough Caraway Rye, 50-51

S

Sabadas, 98

Sage, 25, 27

Hazelnut-, Bread, 44

Hazelnut-, Filoncino, 25, 34-35, 46-47, 147

Salads, bread, 147, 148-50

Salmon, 168

and Capers, Bread Soufflé with, 162

Salt, 20, 21, 23, 25, 30

term, 28

Same day method

daily breads, 40, 44, 46, 51, 53, 55, 57, 58-9

focaccia, 36

pizza, 83

special breads, 140

sweet loaves, 101, 108

traditional breads, 64, 79

San Francisco, 29, 48

Sand toks, 8

Sandwich bread/rolls, 54, 56

Sardines, 168

cleaning, 169

Sautéed Apples and Cream on Toast, 179

Schiacciata with Roasted Grapes, 10, 24, 27, 99, 110-11

Seasonings

for croutons and bread crumbs, 183

Seeds, 24, 54

Sesame seeds, 24

Shellfish,

Bruschetta with, 159

Shimek Dill Pickles, 52

Sicily, 163

Simplicity, 15, 148,

Simply Perfect Tomato Sauce, 95

Skillet Corn Bread, 10, 27, 63, 72

Slipper Bread, 42-43

Soufflé(s), 73, 146, 161-62

Bread, with Salmon and Capers, 162

Bread and Cheese, 20, 161

Soups, bread, 146, 171-75

Tuscan, 171

Sourdough, 29, 48

Flapjacks, 74

Lemon Cake, 99, 112

starter, 30, 31, 48, 66

Sourdough biscuits, 8

My Mother’s, 66-67

Sourdough breads, 29

Caraway Rye, 10, 50-51

Filoncino Integrale, 48-49

Spaghetti alio, olio, pepperoncino, 163

Special breads, 126-43

Spices

for croutons and bread crumbs, 181, 183

dried, 25

Sponge, 30, 31, 35

Classic Brioche, 100

panettone, 130

special breads, 132-33

Spoon bread, 8

Cornmeal, 28, 73

Sprinkles

for bread sticks, 191

Starters, 29-30

in cakes, 99, 112, 113, 116, 118

gauging temperatures of, 19

sourdough, 30, 31, 48, 66

Sourdough Flapjacks, 74

things to remember about, 31

why use, 31

yeast for, 23

see also Biga

Stirring, 26

Straight dough method, 29, 30, 31, 54

Stuffing, 72

corn bread, 72

Hazelnut-Sage

Filoncino for, 46

Surface area in relation to volume, maximizing, 12-14, 158

Sugar, 10, 21, 23-24, 98-99

added to yeast, 23, 29

Sugar Icing, Pink, 133, 134

Supplí, 167

Suzanne’s Rich Chicken Stock, 175

Suzanne’s Roasted Grapes, 111

Suzanne’s Version of Boston Baked Beans, 77

Sweet loaves, 98-122

Sweet Peppers, Bruschetta with, and Tuna, 154

T

Tabouleh, 24

Tangerine Peel, 132

Tarte Tatin, 179, 187

Taste, 12, 35, 181

starters and, 31

Taster(s), 16

Tea sandwiches, 65

Temperatures, 19

Terms, clarification of (list), 27-28

Texture, 18, 23, 25-26, 27, 30, 35, 181

Ciabatta, 42

pasta dishes, 163

pizza dough, 83

rye bread, 50

sweet breads, 110

Thanksgiving, 8

Tiramisú, 98

Toast, 108

Pears in Caramel with Cheese on, 25, 147, 180

Sautéed Apples and Cream on, 179

Toasted ingredients, 24

Tomato and Basil, Bruschetta with, 152

Tomato sauce, 83

Simply Perfect, 95

Tomatoes, 25, 148, 173

Tools, 16-18

necessities (list), 17

other useful items (list), 17-18

Toppings

for bruschettine, 160

Tozzetti, 21, 99, 166

Chocolate, 120-21

Tozzetto, 26, 99

Traditional breads, 62-79

Tramezzini, 65

Trifles, 176

Truffle(s), 140

oil, 10, 127, 140

Rolls, 10, 20, 140-41

Tuna

Bruschetta with Sweet Peppers and, 154

Panzanella, 149

Tuscan Bread Soup, 146, 171

Tuscany, 23

“Twisties,” 102, 103

U

Umbria, 10

V

Valrhona chocolate, 120, 178

Vegetable shortening, 28

Vegetables, 25

in bread soup, 172

on pizza, 91, 92

Very Thin Pizza with Arugula Paste, 94

Village Baker, The (Ortiz), 29

Vinegar, 148

see also Balsamic Vinegar

W

Walnut(s), 24

Prune and, Bread, 108-109

Water, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 27, 29, 30, 31

Wheat bread flour, 22

Wheats, 22

White Bean and Balsamic Vinegar Soup, 174

White breads, 8, 65

White truffle oil, 10, 127

Whole Wheat Bread, 54-55, 108

sourdough, 48

Wild Mushrooms,

Bruschetta with, 157

Wild Turkey Chocolate Ice Cream, 99, 122

Y

Yeast, 15, 20, 21, 22-23, 25, 26, 29, 30, 31, 83

in cakes, 99

quick-rising, 84

in starters, 29-30

sugar and, 24

wild, 22-23

Ye-Wolo Ambasha, 127, 137-38

Your Very Own Bread, 188