Makes: 4 servings
Time: 45 minutes
This savory custard is a celebration of spring. Peas, paired with their trusty sidekicks Parmesan and mint, add a mild sweetness and a beautiful green hue. You can use any vegetable purée you like to make custards, not just pea; see the list below for ideas.
1. If you are using fresh peas, steam or blanch them for just a couple of minutes, then plunge into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Combine all but ¼ cup of the peas with the cream in a pot and use an immersion blender to purée; or use a blender and then transfer the mixture to the pot. Cook the pea mixture just until it begins to steam. Add the Parmesan and stir until it melts.
2. Heat the oven to 300°F and put a kettle of water on to boil. Put the eggs and yolks, mint, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk or beat until blended. Gradually add the pea mixture to the egg mixture, whisking constantly, then add the reserved whole peas. Pour the mixture into four 8-ounce ramekins or a soufflé dish.
3. Put the ramekins or dish in a baking pan and pour hot water into the pan to within about 1 inch of the top of the dish or ramekins (see illustration). Bake for 30 to 40 minutes for ramekins, 20 to 30 minutes more for a dish, until the mixture is not quite set; it should jiggle a bit in the middle. Use your judgment; cream sets faster than milk. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold within a few hours of baking.
Shrimp Chawanmushi A classic Japanese custard flavored with dashi (stock made from dried seaweed and bonito flakes). I love the addition of chopped shrimp for texture, but you could just as easily use chicken, tofu, or vegetables: To make the dashi, combine one 2-inch piece of dried kelp (kombu) and 2 cups water in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Just before the mixture comes to a boil, turn off the heat and remove the kelp (you can use it as a vegetable in stir-fries or salads if you like). Immediately add ¼ cup dried bonito flakes and stir; let sit for a couple of minutes, then strain and cool slightly. To make the chawanmushi, put 2 tablespoons roughly chopped raw shrimp in the bottom of four 8-ounce ramekins. Mix together the eggs and yolks, 2 cups dashi, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 teaspoon mirin, and ¼ teaspoon salt, and pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a liquid measuring cup. Pour the mixture into the ramekins, and bake as directed in Step 3, for about 30 minutes. Garnish with chopped scallions.
12 Puréed Vegetables to Use in Savory Custards
Substitute about 2 cups of any of these cooked and puréed vegetables for the peas in the preceding custard recipe. Add the purée to the cream and reheat the mixture gently.
How to Customize Any Baked Egg Dish
Whether you’re making baked eggs, baked custard, or quiche, think of this as a choose-your-own-adventure guide to making them your own. As long as you don’t bog the eggs down with an absurd proportion of add-ins, you really can’t go wrong.
Mix with (or Place Under) the Eggs
▪ A tablespoon or so sautéed minced garlic, fresh ginger, or fresh chiles
▪ Ricotta, cottage cheese, or mascarpone
▪ Dijon mustard (up to a tablespoon)
▪ Hot sauce (a dash or 2)
▪ Chopped fresh herbs, like oregano, basil, thyme, or sage (up to ¼ cup)
▪ Soy sauce (up to a tablespoon) and/or fish sauce (up to a teaspoon); go easy on the salt
▪ Citrus zest (up to a tablespoon)
▪ Cooked pasta, grains, or beans
▪ Your favorite vegetables (see page 507 for suggestions on how to prepare them all)
▪ Chopped, cooked bacon, pancetta, or crumbled sausage
▪ Cooked meat, like chicken, turkey, or pork
▪ Flaked smoked fish
▪ Ground spices like cumin, cayenne, or chili powder (up to 1 teaspoon each)
▪ Reconstituted dried tomatoes, finely chopped
▪ Cubed or torn bread, preferably stale, like Ciabatta, Sourdough, or English Muffins
▪ Sliced or chopped cured meats like salami, prosciutto, or speck
▪ Chopped olives (kalamata, oil-cured, and Castelvetrano are all nice), capers, or caperberries
▪ A pinch of hot red pepper flakes
Sprinkle on Top Before Baking or Broiling
▪ Any grated or shredded hard or semihard cheese, like Parmesan, cheddar, or Gouda
▪ Any crumbled cheese, like feta, goat cheese, cotija, or blue
▪ Bread crumbs
▪ Chopped nuts