Map: Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants
Near the Berlin Zoological Garden
Berlin has a world of ever-changing restaurants from which to choose. While the city abounds with traditional German eateries, Berliners consider this cuisine old-school; when they go out to eat, they’re not usually looking for traditional local fare. Nouveau German is California cuisine with scant memories of wurst, kraut, and pumpernickel.
Berlin is also a place to venture beyond German cuisine. As one of Europe’s primary melting pots, Berlin has a wide range of restaurants from around the world. You’ll find sushi, Turkish, Italian, Peruvian, Cuban, Thai, Georgian, Vietnamese, Indian, Argentinian—usually done quite well.
For general advice on eating in Germany, including details on dining and tipping in restaurants, where to find budget meals, and descriptions of popular German dishes and beverages, see here.
Choosing Restaurants: Berlin has far more quality restaurants than could fit in any guidebook. It’s hard to go wrong by just browsing the neighborhood you’re in until you find something that strikes your fancy. Lunches are especially easy, as the city is crammed with places selling fresh, affordable sandwiches and salads. Consider picking up the annual Zitty Essen Gehen, with reviews and photographs of the city’s hottest eateries, produced by a local culture magazine (German only, sold at newsstands, www.zitty.de/gastro).
Smoking in Restaurants: Berlin does not have a universal smoking ban. Bars that don’t serve food may permit smoking, while restaurants over a certain size can choose to have both smoking and nonsmoking areas. If you are a strict nonsmoker, ask the restaurant about their smoking policy.
Berlin Specialties: Don’t be too determined to eat “Berlin-style.” The city is best known for its street food—Currywurst and kebabs (see the “Berliner Street Fare” sidebar).
But if you do eat German food in Berlin, popular dishes include Buletten and Königsberger Klopse (both meatball dishes), plus other meaty plates, such as Schnitzel Holstein (veal cutlet with egg), Eisbein (boiled ham hock), Leber Berliner Art (veal liver), Kassler (or Kasseler; smoked pork), and Mett (or Hackepeter; minced pork). Also popular are Aal grün (boiled eel), and Rollmops (pickled herring), and Senfeier (hard-boiled eggs with potatoes). As for sweets, Berliner Pfannkuchen is the local jelly doughnut, and Berliner Luft is a popular dessert. All of these dishes are described in more detail in the Practicalities chapter (under “Traditional German Fare,” starting on here).
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
While this government/commercial area is hardly a hotspot for eateries, I’ve listed a few places handy for your sightseeing, all a short walk from Unter den Linden.
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Georgenstrasse, a block behind the Pergamon Museum and under the S-Bahn tracks, is lined with fun places (bars, sit-down eateries, frozen yogurt, designer coffee, etc.) filling the arcade of the train trestle. This strip is close to the sightseeing action, but largely undiscovered by tourists—its main clientele consists of students (and professors) from nearby Humboldt University.
$$ Deponie No. 3 is a reliable, rustic, but sophisticated Berlin Kneipe (pub). Garden seating in the back is nice if you don’t mind the noise of the S-Bahn passing directly above you. The bar interior is a cozy, wooden wonderland with several inviting spaces. They serve basic salads, traditional Berlin dishes, and hearty daily specials (daily 10:00-24:00, S-Bahn arch #187 at Georgenstrasse 5, tel. 030/2016-5740).
$$ Die Zwölf Apostel (“The Twelve Apostles”) serves up Italian dishes in a vast, romantic, dimly lit interior under frescoed arches (daily 11:00-23:00, S-Bahn arch #177 at Georgenstrasse 2, tel. 030/201-0222).
$$ Brauhaus Lemke is a big, modern, lively beer hall that makes its own brews and offers a menu of Berliner specialties and Bavarian dishes. They have decent salads and serve a six-beer sampler board (daily 12:00-24:00, across from the TV Tower and tucked a bit back from the street at Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 13, tel. 030/3087-8989).
A short walk from Museum Island and Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse, Berlin’s rebuilt “old town” (the Nikolai Quarter) is pretty soulless by day but a popular restaurant zone at night.
$$ Brauhaus Georgbräu is a thriving beer hall serving homemade suds on a picturesque courtyard overlooking the Spree River. Eat in the lively and woody but mod-feeling, hops-infused interior, or outdoors with fun riverside seating—teeming with German tourists. It’s a good place to try one of the few typical Berlin dishes: Eisbein (boiled ham hock) with sauerkraut and mashed peas with bacon. The statue of St. George once stood in the courtyard of Berlin’s old castle—until the Nazis deemed it too decadent and not “German” enough, and removed it (daily 12:00-24:00, 2 blocks south of Berlin Cathedral and across the river at Spreeufer 4, tel. 030/242-4244).
In Berlin, it’s easy to eat cheap, with a glut of Imbiss snack stands, bakeries (for sandwiches), and falafel/kebab counters. Train stations have grocery stores, as well as bright and modern fruit-and-sandwich bars.
Sausage stands are everywhere—including the reigning local favorites, Konnopke’s Imbiss (see here) and Curry 36 (see here and here). You may even see portable human hot-dog stands—two companies, Grillrunner and Grillwalker, outfit their cooks in clever harnesses that let them grill and sell hot dogs from under an umbrella.
Most sausage stands specialize in Currywurst, created in Berlin after World War II, when a fast-food cook got her hands on some curry and Worcestershire sauce from British troops stationed here. It’s basically a grilled pork sausage smothered with curry sauce. Currywurst comes either mit Darm (with casing) or ohne Darm (without casing). If the casing is left on to grill, it gives the sausage a smokier flavor. (Berliner Art—“Berlin-style”—means that the sausage is boiled ohne Darm, then grilled.)
Either way, the grilled sausage is then chopped into small pieces or cut in half (East Berlin style) and topped with sauce. While some places simply use ketchup and sprinkle on some curry powder, real Currywurst joints use a proper Currysauce: tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, and curry. With your wurst comes either a toothpick or small wooden fork; you’ll usually get a plate of fries as well, but rarely a roll. You’ll see Currywurst on the menu at some sit-down restaurants, but purists say that misses the point: You’ll get a more authentic dish (and pay a third less) at a street stand under elevated S-Bahn tracks.
Other (less popular) meaty street foods include Bulette (a big meatball) and Ketwurst (a sausage stuffed into the ketchup-filled hole of a long bun).
The other big Berlin street food is the kebab—either döner kebab (Turkish-style skewered meat slow-roasted and served in pita bread) or the recently trendy, healthier, vegetarian alternative, Gemüse kebab (with lots of veggies, and sometimes falafel). Other variations include the döner teller (on a plate instead of in bread) and döner dürüm (in a thin flatbread wrap, also called dürüm kebab or yufka). Just as Americans drop by a taco truck for a quick bite, Germans find a kebab stand.
(See “Historic Core Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
South of Unter den Linden, Gendarmenmarkt, with its twin churches, is a delightful place for an al fresco meal. Here you’ll find several business-lunch-type places that are handy but pricey (given the high-rent location). In addition to these options, you can also browse the eateries along Charlottenstrasse.
$$$ Lutter & Wegner Restaurant is a Berlin institution respected for its Austrian cuisine (Schnitzel and Sauerbraten). Popular with businesspeople, it’s dressy, with fun sidewalk seating or a dark and elegant interior. Lunch specials are an affordable way to sample their cooking (daily 11:00-24:00, Charlottenstrasse 56, tel. 030/202-9540, www.l-w-berlin.de).
The $ Dom Curry Currywurst stand, behind the German Cathedral, works for a quick bite out on the square (daily 11:00-18:00, closed in winter, operated by the nearby Hilton).
$$ Galeries Lafayette Food Circus is a French festival of fun eateries in the basement of the landmark department store—ideal for a quality lunch. You’ll find a variety of prices and food, including sandwiches, savory crêpes, quiches, sushi bar, oyster bar, les macarons, and so on (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, Friedrichstrasse 76, U-Bahn: Französische Strasse, tel. 030/209-480).
(See “Prenzlauer Berg Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Prenzlauer Berg is overstuffed with excellent restaurants, serving up every cuisine imaginable. Even if you’re not staying in this area, it’s worth venturing here for dinner (consider combining it with my 
Prenzlauer Berg Walk). Before choosing a restaurant, I’d spend at least a half-hour strolling and browsing through this bohemian wonderland of creative eateries. Or consider one of my recommendations (for locations, see the map on here).
(See “Prenzlauer Berg Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The epicenter of this neighborhood is Kastanienallee (between the Eberswalder Strasse U-Bahn station and Zionskirche), and surrounding streets. It’s a youthful and trendy place to eat and drink. I’ve organized my recommendations in three categories: German cuisine (both traditional and modern), international options, and cafés.
Berlin is the epicenter of Germany’s growing small-batch craft beer scene. Specialty craft-beer bars and microbreweries are popping up all around the city, such as the recommended Hopfenreich, in Kreuzberg.
The city does have its own mass-produced beers, too. Most famous are the fizzy Berliner Weisse and the basic Berliner Kindl pilsner. Berliner Weisse is commonly served mit Schuss—with a shot of fruity syrup in your suds. Choose either rot (red) or grün (green) syrup. These beers are—locals readily admit—uninspired at best. (Maybe that’s why they need to add syrup.) Berliners leave it to Bavarian brewers to be the masters of traditional brews.
A good place to sample the local brew is at a beer hall, beer garden, or one of the city’s Kneipen. These traditional, colorful pubs, offering a fine old-Berlin ambience, not only serve drinks, but also light, quick, and easy meals. Classic Berlin Kneipen listed in this chapter include Metzer Eck and Zum Schusterjungen (Prenzlauer Berg), Deponie No. 3 (near Museum Island), Aufsturz (in Scheunenviertel), and Dicke Wirtin (City West, near Savignyplatz).
For all its other hallmarks of a great foodie city, Berlin does not have a particularly good craft cocktail scene, though all of the standards are available. Nonalcoholic specialties to look for include Fritz-Cola, a high-end soft-drink brand, and Club-Mate (MAH-tay), a carbonated iced-tea drink made of yerba mate leaves, with as much caffeine as a cup of coffee. It comes in several varieties, and is sometimes mixed into a cocktail (which helps keep the party going).
Prater Garten, Berlin’s oldest beer garden, has been in business since 1837—back when Prenzlauer Berg was a forested hill. The rustic indoor $$ restaurant serves well-executed German classics and good salads (table service). But for most, the big draw is the mellow, shaded, super-cheap $ beer garden, with a family-friendly outdoor area, including a playground (order at the counter). Both sections proudly pour Prater’s own microbrew (restaurant open Mon-Sat 18:00-24:00, Sun from 12:00; beer garden open daily in good weather 12:00-24:00, closed in winter; cash only, Kastanienallee 7, tel. 030/448-5688).
$$ Zum Schusterjungen (“The Cobbler’s Apprentice”) is a classic, old-school, German-with-attitude eatery that retains its circa-1986 DDR decor. Famous for its filling meals (including various types of schnitzel and Berlin specialties such as pork knuckle), it’s a no-frills place with quality ingredients and a strong local following. It serves the needs of those Berliners lamenting the disappearance of solid, traditional German cooking amid the flood of ethnic eateries (small 40-seat dining hall plus outdoor tables, daily 12:00-24:00, corner of Lychener Strasse and Danziger Strasse 9, tel. 030/442-7654).
$ Konnopke’s Imbiss, a super-cheap German-style sausage stand underneath the U2 train tracks, has been a Berlin institution since 1930—it was family-owned even during DDR times. Loyal Berliners say Konnopke’s cooks up some of the city’s best Currywurst; they also serve a wide variety of other wurst specialties (Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat from 11:30, closed Sun; Schönhauser Allee 44A—underneath elevated train tracks where Kastanienallee dead-ends, tel. 030/442-7765).
$$ Ausspanne, right along Kastanienallee, looks like a traditional, uninspired hotel restaurant. But the menu boldly elevates German classics with surprising flourishes—such as a puff of habanero foam with duck breast and red cabbage. It’s an interesting and reasonably priced take on modern German cooking (Tue-Sun 18:00-22:00, closed Mon, in recommended Hotel Kastanienhof at Kastanienallee 65, tel. 030/4430-5199).
$$$ Der Hahn Ist Tot! (“The Chicken Is Dead!”) has whimsical style and cozy outdoor tables facing the Zionskirche, on a pleasant Prenzlauer Berg square. They serve only four-course, fixed-price dinners. Prices are decent, and the cuisine is a thoughtful combination of rustic German and French dishes. The name refers to a popular French children’s song. It’s as tiny as it is popular—book ahead (Tue-Sun 18:30-24:00, closed Mon, Zionskirchstrasse 40, tel. 030/6570-6756, www.der-hahn-ist-tot.de).
$$$ Altberliner (“Old Berliner”) serves hearty but refined traditional Berlin cooking in an uncluttered, upscale-bistro ambience or outside, where you’re immersed in modern Berlin. Claiming to be the oldest bar in the city, they brought the original paneling along when they relocated here from the original location in Mitte (daily 12:00-23:00, Fürstenberger Strasse 1—near the Zionskirche, facing the park at Arkonaplatz, tel. 030/449-5151, www.altberliner-restaurant.de). Note: Several Berlin eateries call themselves “Altberliner,” but this is the original.
$$ Restaurant Die Schule is a modern, no-frills eatery where you can sample traditional German dishes tapas-style. Assemble a collection of cheap little plates of old-fashioned German food you might not try otherwise. They have several varieties of Flammkuchen (German pizza—a flatbread dish from the French borderlands). The nondescript interior is perfectly fine, but I prefer their outdoor tables—along the most colorful stretch of Kastanienallee (daily 11:00-22:00, Kastanienallee 82, tel. 030/780-089-550).
$$$ Les Valseuses is a hole-in-the-wall French bistro. Everything is simple and unpretentious, from the subway tile-clad exterior to the cozy, stripped-down interior to the short menu. Reserve ahead (daily 18:30-23:00, Eberswalder Strasse 28, tel. 030/7552-2032).
$$$ Osmans Töchter (“Ottoman Daughters”), run by sisters from Istanbul, is a fun mash-up of industrial-mod interior and modern Turkish cuisine. Although the service can be a bit full of itself, this popular restaurant is the most appealing place in Prenzlauer Berg to sample well-executed Turkish dishes. Reservations are smart (daily 17:30-24:00, Pappelallee 15, tel. 030/3266-3388, www.osmanstoechter.de).
$$ La Bodeguita del Medio is purely fun-loving Cuba—graffiti-caked walls, Che Guevara posters, animated staff, and an ambience that makes you want to dance. Come early to eat or late to drink. This restaurant has been here since 1994—and in fast-changing Prenzlauer Berg, that’s an eternity. The German-Cuban couple who run it take pride in their food, and the main dishes are big enough to split. You can even puff a Cuban cigar at the sidewalk tables (Tue-Sun 18:00-24:00, closed Mon, cash only, a block from U2: Eberswalder Strasse at Lychener Strasse 6, tel. 030/4050-0601).
$ Maria Bonita is an American-run Mexican bistro on a busy street offering some of the most authentic tacos in Berlin (daily 12:00-23:00, equidistant from Kollwitzplatz and Eberswalder Strasse U-Bahn at Danziger Strasse 33, tel. 030/2025-5338).
Browsing Kastanienallee: For other ethnic options, simply wander down Kastanienallee from the Eberswalder Strasse trestle. In just a few blocks, you’ll see Italian, Vietnamese, falafel, Gemüse kebab, and other cuisines, along with burgers, funky cafés, colorful Kneipe, and much more (plus the recommended Prater Garten, Die Schule, Ausspanne, and Café Morgenrot).
The following places are good for lingering over a drink and/or snack, ideally at an outdoor table where you can soak up the essence of Prenzlauer Berg (Engelberg also works well for a full meal). Most of these are on Oderberger Strasse, a wide street branching off from Kastanienallee (and seemingly every Berliner’s favorite street).
$$ Engelberg is a delightful little café serving authentic southern German fare imported from Bavaria, including sausages, spätzle, and streusel. Stop by here for breakfast, lunch, or coffee and cake in a relaxed, convivial atmosphere (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Oderberger Strasse 21, tel. 030/4403-0637).
Kauf Dich Glücklich makes a great capper to a Prenzlauer Berg dinner. It serves an enticing array of sweet Belgian waffles and homemade ice cream in a candy-sprinkled, bohemian lounge on a great street (daily 11:00-24:00, indoor and outdoor seating—or get your dessert to go, Oderberger Strasse 44, tel. 030/4862-3292).
Bonanza Coffee is one of Berlin’s most respected artisanal coffeehouses (Mon-Fri 8:30-18:00, Sat-Sun from 10:00, Oderberger Strasse 35, tel. 030/208-488-020).
Café Morgenrot (“Red Dawn”) is a Prenzlauer Berg classic—a holdover from the neighborhood’s squatter days, and still run by an artists’ collective (closed Mon, vegan options, 85 Kastanienallee, tel. 030/4431-7844).
(See “Prenzlauer Berg Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
This small neighborhood, a few blocks east of Kastanienallee, is Prenzlauer Berg’s gentrified heart—quieter and more residential. Hip parents bring their hip kids to the leafy playground park at its center, Kollwitzplatz. The first listing (Gugelhof) is a pricier sit-down option right on the park; the others allow you to enjoy great food and this area on the cheap. Some of these (and many others in the neighborhood) offer take-away; grab something to go, and find a bench on this prime square.
$$$ Gugelhof, right on Kollwitzplatz, is an institution famous for its Alsatian German cuisine—French quality with German proportions. An enthusiastic local crowd fills its minimalist yet classy interior. In good weather, outdoor seating sprawls along its sidewalk. Their fixed-price meals are fun, and they welcome swapping (Mon-Fri 17:00-23:00, Sat-Sun from 12:00, reservations smart, where Knaackstrasse meets Kollwitzplatz, tel. 030/442-9229, www.gugelhof.de).
$ Imbiss 204 is a bit farther from the core of Prenzlauer Berg, but worth the trek for huge portions of traditional German dishes. Highlights include wiener schnitzel and Buletten. This place—popular with food-loving tourists who’ve done their homework—is tiny and crowded, and they don’t take reservations. Come at an off time or expect to wait outside. Be ready to share a table and make new friends (Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00, closed Sat-Sun, Prenzlauer Allee 204, tel. 030/2403-8543).
$ Chutnify offers a modern take on Indian street food. You can get a dosa (southern India’s version of a burrito, with various fillings), a thali (mixed platter), or a curry, either to eat in the cozy interior or to go (daily 12:00-23:00, Sredzkistrasse 43, tel. 030/4401-0795).
$ Zula is handy for cheap hummus wraps. The main draw here is the location: You can either sit at an outside table on one of Prenzlauer Berg’s finest streets, or enjoy your food at Kollwitzplatz, just down the street (daily 11:00-23:00, Husemannstrasse 10, tel. 030/4171-5100).
Pubs near Senefelderplatz: These two options—a few blocks south of Kollwitzplatz, handy to the Senefelderplatz U-Bahn—are good choices for beer with grub. The first is old-school, the other modern. $ Metzer Eck is a time-warp Kneipe with cozy charm and a family tradition dating to 1913. It serves cheap, basic, typical Berlin food with five beers on tap, including the Czech Budvar (Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat from 18:00, closed Sun, Metzer Strasse 33, on the corner with Strassburger Strasse, tel. 030/442-7656). $$ Leibhaftig is the modern yin to Metzer’s yang, serving their own brews and small plates of nouveau German cuisine. The cellar setting is tight but convivial (Mon-Sat 18:00-24:00, closed Sun, Metzer Strasse 30, tel. 030/5481-5039).
(See “Scheunenviertel Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Of Berlin’s trendy dining zones, this is the closest from the main sightseeing core. Most of these places are a reasonable walk from Unter den Linden and within 10 minutes of the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Scheunenviertel Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The best place to find good eateries in Scheunenviertel is along or near Auguststrasse, Berlin’s “art gallery row” (close to the New Synagogue and my Scheunenviertel Walk). Though the other areas I cover (Rosenthaler Platz and Hackescher Markt) are easier to reach, Auguststrasse is worth the short detour, as it’s attracted a fun cross-section of creative chefs that make it your best choice for a good meal.
Note: The nearby and much bigger Oranienburger Strasse is jammed with dime-a-dozen Indian, Cuban, and Singapore-themed restaurants serving tropical cocktails. While this street is trendy (and not a terrible choice for a practical meal), the places I recommend here are more interesting and more respected by locals.
$$ Mogg Deli, run by an expat Brooklynite, is a foodie favorite, serving a short but thoughtful menu of soups, salads, and sandwiches. They’re known for their home-cured pastrami, especially their monster, easily splittable Reuben (daily 11:00-22:00, inside the huge red-brick former Jewish girls school at Auguststrasse 11, tel. 030/330-060-770).
$$ Gipsy Restaurant fills the courtyard in front of Clärchens Ballhaus (a classic old Berlin ballroom) with twinkle lights, ramshackle furniture, and a bohemian-chic atmosphere—especially nice on a balmy evening. They serve good, reasonably priced German and Italian dishes, including brats, pizza, and homemade cakes (daily 12:30-23:00, Auguststrasse 24, tel. 030/282-9295). At lunch, climb the stairs to the delightful old $$ Spiegelsaal dining hall, with faded-elegant decor and flickering chandeliers that take you back to Berlin’s Weimar-era glory days (lunch only, Mon-Fri 11:00-15:00, closed Sat-Sun).
$$ Schwarzwaldstuben is a Black Forest-themed pub—which explains the antlers, cuckoo clocks, and painting of a thick forest on the wall. It’s friendly, with good service, food, and prices. The staff chooses the music (often rock or jazz), and the ambience is warm and welcoming. If they’re full, you can eat at the long bar or at one of the sidewalk tables (daily 12:00-23:00, Tucholskystrasse 48, tel. 030/2809-8084).
$$$ Cordobar is a cozy wine bar with a clean, trendy vibe and an appealing range of both German and international wines by the glass, paired with upscale small plates. Come here not for a filling meal, but to enjoy a posh local scene and try some interesting wines. It’s quite popular, so reserve ahead (Tue-Sat 19:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon, Grosse Hamburger Strasse 32, tel. 030/2758-1215).
$$ Aufsturz is a lively pub that’s more for serious drinkers than serious eaters. It has a huge selection of beer and whisky and dishes up traditional Berliner pub grub to a young crowd (daily 12:00-24:00, Oranienburger Strasse 67, tel. 030/2804-7407).
Coffee: At The Barn, curt baristas serve up some of Berlin’s best gourmet coffee with an extra shot of pretense. Hipster coffee snobs will be satisfied (Mon-Fri 8:30-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00, Auguststrasse 58). Another branch is near Senefelderplatz in Prenzlauer Berg (Schönhauser Allee 8).
Dessert: For your afternoon Kaffee und Küchen, stop at Princess Cheesecake, beloved by locals and selling several varieties of cheesecake (daily 10:00-19:00, Tucholskystrasse 37, tel. 030/2809-2760).
(See “Scheunenviertel Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
This busy neighborhood with some enticing options is roughly between Scheunenviertel and Prenzlauer Berg (near the U8: Rosenthaler Platz station, and on the tram #M1 line that runs between Kastanienallee and the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station).
$$ Transit is a popular, tight, affordable eatery that cranks out Thai/Indonesian/pan-Asian small plates. Sit at one of the long shared tables and dig into the creative menu. Two people can make a filling meal out of three or four dishes. This place can be crowded, and they don’t take reservations, so come at an off time or expect to line up on the street (daily 11:00-24:00, cash only, Rosenthaler Strasse 68, tel. 030/2478-1645).
St. Oberholz Café, filling a fine old two-story space overlooking the busy Rosenthaler Platz intersection, epitomizes today’s Berlin: a hipster coffee shop where startup types sip lattes waiting for inspiration. Customers can rent tables to work at, and everyone seems to have the latest MacBook. The owner even wrote a how-to book on building a Berlin startup (daily 8:00-24:00, Rosenthaler Strasse 72A).
Eclectic Eats on Weinbergsweg: If you’re sniffing around for a meal in this area, don’t miss the first block of Weinbergsweg, the narrower, tram track-lined lane that heads north to Prenzlauer Berg. In just one block, you’ll find cafés, bakeries, superfoods and organic juice, Gemüse kebab, döner kebab, an Italian deli, Mexican street food, Russian, Korean barbecue, a French bistro, Chinese dumplings, gelato, and more.
(See “Scheunenviertel Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
$$$ Hasir Turkish Restaurant is a popular, upscale, somewhat stuffy opportunity to splurge on Anatolian specialties amid candles and hardwood floors. While a bit past its prime and with hit-or-miss service, Hasir remains fairly respected, and enjoys a handy location in a courtyard next to the Hackesche Höfe shopping complex (large and splittable portions, daily 11:00-24:00, a block from the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station at Oranienburger Strasse 4, tel. 030/2804-1616).
$$ Weihenstephaner Bavarian Restaurant serves upmarket traditional Bavarian food in an atmospheric cellar, on an inner courtyard, or on a busy people-watching terrace facing the delightful Hackescher Markt square; and, of course, it has excellent beer (daily 11:00-24:00, Neue Promenade 5 at Hackescher Markt, tel. 030/8471-0760).
To dig into Berlin’s up-and-coming food scene, head to Kreuzberg. This southern Berlin neighborhood—historically known for its large immigrant community and counterculture squatter types—has taken off as the place for upwardly mobile young Berliners to eat out. I list a few options in some of the most appealing areas. As this is a very trendy destination, it’s smart to reserve ahead at most of these—especially on weekends—or avoid prime meal times. For more on Kreuzberg and its various Kieze (smaller sub-neighborhoods), see here.
Cozy Hangouts in Graefekiez: In addition to its fascinating Turkish Street Market (see here), the area just south of the Landwehr Canal is home to the delightful Graefekiez neighborhood (U8: Schönleinstrasse). On its main drag, Graefestrasse, you’ll find several tempting options, such as the inviting $ Kaffeebar, serving drinks, breakfast, and sandwiches (Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00, Sat-Sun 9:30-19:00, Graefestrasse 8). Closer to the river—near the bridge (Admiralbrücke)—locals flock to the Isabel ice-cream parlor (daily 10:00-18:00, Böckhstrasse 1) and the cheap-and-cheery $ Il Casolare pizzeria (daily 12:00-24:00, Grimmstrasse 30).
High-End Foodie Splurges on Paul-Lincke-Ufer: This strip—along the north bank of the Landwehr Canal (across from the Turkish market)—is home to several top-tier Berlin eateries (U8: Schönleinstrasse). Close to the bridge (Kottbusser Brücke) are $$$$ Horváth, a Michelin-star restaurant featuring elevated Austrian/international-fusion fare (Wed-Sun 18:30-22:30, closed Mon-Tue, #44a, tel. 030/6128-9992, www.restaurant-horvath.de) and $$ Cocolo Ramen X-berg, an outpost of a high-end Japanese restaurant, serving slurpy noodle bowls (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 18:00-23:00, #39, tel. 030/9833-9073, www.kuchi.de). Farther east along the canal are $$$$ Lode & Stijn, featuring the eclectic high-end cooking (without pretense) of two talented Dutch-transplant chefs (Tue-Sat 18:00-22:30, closed Sun-Mon, Lausitzer Strasse 25, tel. 030/6521-4507, www.lode-stijn.de) and $$$$ Restaurant Volt, with upscale international dishes in a former power station (Tue-Sat 18:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon, #21, tel. 030/338-402-320, www.restaurant-volt.de).
Kebabs and Fried Chicken near Oranienstrasse: At the scruffy Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station (U1/U8), you’ll find several hole-in-the wall $ kebab stands (good choices include Konak Grill at Reichenberger Strasse 10 and Doyum Restaurant at Admiralstrasse 36). A block north of Kottbusser Tor runs the east-west thoroughfare Oranienstrasse. At the intersection with Adalbertstrasse is an outpost of $$$ Hasir, the high-end Turkish restaurant based at Hackescher Markt—see listing on here (daily 12:00-24:00, Adalbertstrasse 12). A couple of blocks north is the old-school local favorite $ Henne, which serves just one thing: fried chicken (Tue-Sun 18:00-24:00, closed Mon, Leuschnerdamm 25). East on Oranienstrasse—on Heinrichplatz—is the funky $ Angry Chicken, selling spicy Korean fried chicken (daily 12:00-22:00, Oranienstrasse 16).
Markthalle Neun: Kreuzberg’s best foodie destination is this beautifully renovated 19th-century market hall, filled with local producers and fun food stalls (U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof). You’ll find gourmet butchers, wine shops, tapas, Berlin meatballs (Buletten), tofu sandwiches, fair trade spices, Turkish dishes, and an Aldi supermarket. This is Berlin’s answer to London’s Borough Market or New York’s Chelsea Market (on a much smaller scale; most vendors open Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun, busiest on Tue and Fri-Sat; for location see map on here). It’s most worthwhile on “Street Food Thursdays,” when extra eateries open up (weekly 17:00-22:00); Eisenbahnstrasse 42, event schedule at www.markthalleneun.de). Note: The Görlitzer Bahnhof area can feel seedy; on arrival, head straight for Lausitzer Platz, marked by the big church, then cut up to the top of the park and keep going 1.5 blocks to the market. Attached to the market are a good gourmet coffee shop (Café 9) and $$$ Weltrestaurant Markthalle, with classic Kneipe decor and big portions of traditional German dishes (daily 12:00-24:00, Pücklerstrasse 34).
Wrangelkiez: This area is loaded with restaurants (U1: Schlesisches Tor). Beer pilgrims appreciate Hopfenreich, with 22 good microbrews on tap, but no food (daily 16:00-24:00, Sorauer Strasse 31, tel. 030/8806-1080). For a delicious and authentic Georgian meal, make your way to $$ Schwiliko—with owners (and ingredients) imported from the Republic of Georgia (daily 17:00-24:00, Schlesische Strasse 29, tel. 030/6162-3588, www.schwiliko-berlin.de). $$ Freischwimmer, serving a range of European dishes, is a great place to break on a sunny day thanks to its peaceful spot right on the river (daily 12:00-22:00, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, tel. 030/6107-4309).
Bergmannkiez: Another fine market hall is located in this upscale Kreuzberg neighborhood (U7: Gneisenaustrasse). $ Marheineke Markthalle is filled with appealing food counters serving Greek, Asian, Spanish tapas, French crêpes and galettes, grilled fish, pizza, Berlin specialties, and so on (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat until 18:00, closed Sun, Marheinekeplatz 15; for location see map on here). Facing the same square are a pair of related restaurants that Berliners swear by for traditional Austrian cuisine: the aptly named $$$ Austria Restaurant, in business since 1858 (Tue-Sun 12:00-23:00, Mon from 18:00, cash only, Bergmannstrasse 30, tel. 030/694-4440), and their smaller, trendier-feeling annex, $$ Felix Austria (daily 10:00-24:00, just a half-block away toward the market hall at Bergmannstrasse 26, tel. 030/6167-5451). Nearby, the wine bar Not Only Riesling has an array of German vintages (Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00, closed Sun, Schleiermacherstrasse 25, tel. 030/6953-8866).
At the opposite (west) end of Bergmannkiez, the thriving $$ Golgatha Gaststätten beer garden sits at the base of Viktoriapark’s Kreuzberg monument (daily in good weather 9:00-18:00, Dudenstrasse 40, tel. 030/785-2453).
Famous Street Food at Mehringdamm: Two beloved-by-Berliners street food joints stand a few steps apart along the west side of Mehringdamm street, near the U-Bahn stop of the same name (U6/U7). $ Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebab is famous for its top-quality kebabs (both meat and vegetarian versions)...and its extremely long lines. Nearby, $ Curry 36 is a local favorite for Currywurst and generally has a shorter/faster-moving line (both places open long hours daily).
These eateries are of interest primarily to travelers sleeping here. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “City West Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
While not worth a special trip, many good restaurants are on or within 100 yards of Savignyplatz, near my recommended hotels. Savignyplatz is lined with attractive, relaxed, mostly Mediterranean-style places. Take a walk and survey the places I list here; continue your stroll along Bleibtreustrasse to discover many trendier, creative little eateries.
$$$ Restaurant Marjellchen is a trip to East Prussia, with big portions of hearty, delicious German/Polish cuisine. Dine in cozily cluttered elegance in one of two six-table rooms. While it doesn’t have to be expensive, plan to go the whole nine yards here, as this can be a great experience, with caring service. The menu is inviting, and the place family-run—all the recipes were brought to Berlin by the owner’s East Prussian mother after World War II. Reservations are smart (daily 17:00-22:30, Mommsenstrasse 9, tel. 030/883-2676, www.marjellchen-berlin.de).
$$ Dicke Wirtin (“Fat Landlady”) has a traditional old-Berlin Kneipe atmosphere, seven good beers on tap (including Andechs from Bavaria), and solid home cooking at reasonable prices—such as their famously cheap Gulaschsuppe. Their interior is fun and pubby, with soccer on the TV; their streetside tables are also inviting. Pickled eggs are on the bar—ask about how these can help you avoid a hangover (daily 11:00-23:00, dinner served from 18:00, just off Savignyplatz at Carmerstrasse 9, tel. 030/312-4952).
$$$$ Café im Literaturhaus sits above a rare-books shop on a delightfully tranquil garden courtyard, facing the Käthe Kollwitz Museum. It has the ambience of an Old World villa, with classy gold Art Deco accents—perfect for their evening poetry and other literary readings. While the full menu is quite pricey, you can enjoy the place far more affordably with a sandwich or coffee and cake (daily 9:30-24:00, smart to reserve for dinner if eating inside, Fasanenstrasse 23, tel. 030/882-5414).
$ Heno Heno is a very popular Japanese hole-in-the-wall, serving a variety of rice bowls, noodle dishes, and soups (but no sushi) in a long, sleek, minimalist space (Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, closed Sun, Wielandstrasse 37, tel. 030/6630-7370).
$ Diener Tattersall is a neighborhood favorite Kneipe with a complicated history. The building started as a horse riding school, later became a casino, and was eventually bought by the German heavyweight champion Franz Diener, who attracted an eclectic clientele of boxers and artists to his Kneipe. Today it’s known for the affordable menu, specializing in homemade liver sausage (daily from 18:00, Grolmanstrasse 47, tel. 030/881-5329).
$$ Weyers offers modern German cuisine in a simple, elegant setting, with dining tables in the summer spilling out into the idyllic neighborhood park in front (daily 8:00-24:00, Pariser Strasse 16—facing Ludwigkirchplatz at intersection with Pfalzburger Strasse, tel. 030/881-9378).
On Bleibtreustrasse: On the stretch just south of the Savignyplatz S-Bahn tracks, Bleibtreustrasse is lined with an eclectic array of dining options—wander and take your pick: $$ Zillemarkt, an old-time beer hall with nice atmosphere and uninspired service (#48A); $$$ Die Zwölf Apostel, with Italian dishes and sophisticated ambience (#49); neighborhood budget favorite $ Ali Baba, with pizzas and outdoor seating (#45); plus $ Repke Spätzlerei (Spanish tapas, including buttery dumplings) and Nibs Cacao (churros and chocolate; both at #46).
(See “City West Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
In addition to a beer garden and department-store cafeteria, there’s plenty of fast food near the Zoologischer Garten station and on Ku’damm.
$ Curry 36—the locally beloved Currywurst vendor from Kreuzberg (see here)—has a handy outpost just outside of the Zoologischer Garten station.
$$ Schleusenkrug beer garden is hidden in the park overlooking a canal between the Zoologischer Garten and Tiergarten stations. Choose from an ever-changing self-service menu of huge salads, pasta, and some German dishes (daily 10:00-24:00, food served 12:00-22:00, shorter hours and more basic menu off-season, cash only; from Zoologischer Garten station it’s a 5-minute walk following the path into the park between the zoo and train tracks; tel. 030/313-9909).
KaDeWe: The top floor of this famous department store holds the $$ Winter Garden Buffet cafeteria, while its sixth-floor deli/food department is a picnicker’s nirvana. Its arterials are clogged with more than 1,000 kinds of sausage and 1,500 types of cheese (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz).