USING A MOBILE PHONE IN EUROPE
Map: German Public Transportation
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. To round out your knowledge, check out “Resources from Rick Steves.” For more information on these topics, see www.ricksteves.com/travel-tips.
Germany’s national tourist office in the US is a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their website (www.germany.travel) for maps, as well as information on festivals, biking, and regions. Travel brochures can also be downloaded from their website.
In Berlin, tourist information offices—abbreviated TI in this book—are well-organized and have English-speaking staff. But be aware that TIs are in business to help you enjoy spending money in their town. Most Berlin TIs have been privatized—they’re essentially sales agents for big tours and hotels, and their “information” is unavoidably colored. While this corrupts much of their advice—and you can get plenty of information online—I still make a point to swing by the local TI to confirm sightseeing plans, pick up a city map, and get information on public transit (including bus and train schedules), walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Prepare a list of questions and a proposed plan to double-check.
Emergency and Medical Help: In Germany, dial 112 for police help or a medical emergency. If you get sick, do as the Germans do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
Time Zones: Germany, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, see www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: In Berlin, most shops are open from about 9:00 until 18:00-20:00 on weekdays. Banks are generally open Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 15:00 (or even later, up to 19:00). Many museums and sights are closed on Monday.
Saturdays are virtually weekdays, though banks are closed, and smaller stores generally close early—anywhere between 12:00 and 17:00. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, while shops and banks are closed, public transportation options are fewer, and there’s no rush hour. Friday and Saturday evenings are lively; Sunday evenings are quiet.
A few shops are usually open later than other stores, including shops in train stations, which often have grocery stores that are open long hours.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter plug, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 60 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights. Always ask. Some discounts are available only for citizens of the European Union (EU).
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites. You can also paste text or the URL of a foreign website into the translation window at Translate.google.com. The Google Translate app converts spoken English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your smartphone’s camera.
Here’s my basic strategy for using money in Europe:
• Upon arrival, head for a cash machine (ATM) at the airport and load up on local currency, using a debit card with low international transaction fees.
• Withdraw large amounts at each transaction (to limit fees) and keep your cash safe in a money belt.
• Pay for most items with cash.
• Pay for larger purchases with a credit card with low (or no) international fees.
Although credit cards are widely accepted in Europe, day-to-day spending is generally more cash-based than in the US. I find cash is the easiest—and sometimes only—way to pay for cheap food, bus fare, taxis, tips, and local guides. Some businesses (especially smaller ones, such as B&Bs and mom-and-pop cafés and shops) may charge you extra for using a credit card—or might not accept credit cards at all. Having cash on hand helps you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work.
I use my credit card to book hotel reservations, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, and to cover major expenses (such as car rentals or plane tickets). It can also be smart to use plastic near the end of your trip, to avoid another visit to the ATM. But keep in mind that some shops and restaurants in Germany accept only the local “EC” debit cards—not American credit cards. Larger hotels, restaurants, and shops that do take US cards more commonly accept Visa and MasterCard than American Express.
I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw local cash.
Credit Card: Use this to pay for larger items (at hotels, larger shops and restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies, and so on).
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank), in case one gets lost, demagnetized, eaten by a temperamental machine, or simply doesn’t work.
US Dollars: I carry $100-200 US as a backup. While you won’t use it for day-to-day purchases, American cash in your money belt comes in handy for emergencies, such as if your ATM card stops working.
What NOT to Bring: Resist the urge to buy euros before your trip or you’ll pay the price in bad stateside exchange rates. Wait until you arrive to withdraw money. I’ve yet to see a European airport that didn’t have plenty of ATMs.
Use this pre-trip checklist.
Know your cards. Debit cards from any major US bank will work in any standard European bank’s ATM (ideally, use a debit card with a Visa or MasterCard logo).
Newer credit and debit cards have chips that authenticate and secure transactions. In Europe, the cardholder inserts the chip card into the payment machine slot, then enters a PIN. (In the US, you provide a signature to verify your identity.)
Any American card, whether with a chip or an old-fashioned magnetic stripe, will work at Europe’s hotels, restaurants, and shops. I’ve been inconvenienced a few times by self-service payment machines in Europe that wouldn’t accept my card, but it’s never caused me serious trouble.
If you’re concerned, ask if your bank offers a true chip-and-PIN card. Cards with low fees and chip-and-PIN technology include those from Andrews Federal Credit Union (www.andrewsfcu.org) and the State Department Federal Credit Union (www.sdfcu.org).
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for all of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one and allow time to receive the information by mail.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can take out daily and ask for a higher daily withdrawal limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts; you’re unlikely to have access to your savings account.
Ask about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent), a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (1 percent), and—for debit cards—a $2-5 transaction fee each time you use a foreign ATM (some US banks partner with European banks, allowing you to use those ATMs with no fees—ask).
If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new debit or credit card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low-to-no international transaction fees.
European cash machines have English-language instructions and work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate.
In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Germany ask for a Geldautomat. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank. Ideally use it during the bank’s opening hours; if your card is munched by the machine, you can go inside for help.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later—your bank’s network may be temporarily down.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure than a bank ATM, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see below).
Avoid exchanging money in Europe; it’s a big rip-off. In a pinch you can always find exchange desks at major train stations or airports—convenient but with crummy rates. Banks in some countries may not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
European cards use chip-and-PIN technology, while most cards issued in the US use a chip-and-signature system. But most European card readers can automatically generate a receipt for you to sign, just as you would at home. If a cashier is present, you should have no problems. Some card readers will instead prompt you to enter your PIN (so it’s important to know the code for each of your cards).
At self-service payment machines (transit-ticket kiosks, parking, etc.), results are mixed, as US chip-and-signature cards aren’t configured for unattended transactions. If your card won’t work, look for a cashier who can process your card manually—or pay in cash.
Drivers Beware: Be aware of potential problems using a credit card to fill up at an unattended gas station, enter a parking garage, or exit a toll road. Carry cash and be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. When approaching a toll plaza, use the “cash” lane.
Some European merchants and hoteliers cheerfully charge you for converting your purchase price into dollars. If it’s offered, refuse this “service” (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC). You’ll pay extra for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. Some ATM machines also offer DCC, often in confusing or misleading terms. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for euros.” Always choose the local currency.
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while the fraudulent use is investigated by your bank.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see here).
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). In Germany, to make a collect call to the US, dial 0-800-225-5288. Press zero or stay on the line for an English-speaking operator. European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard.
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Germany isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: You don’t need to tip if you order your food at a counter. At German restaurants that have a wait staff, it’s common to tip by rounding up (about 10 percent) after a good meal. For details on tipping in restaurants, see here.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if your fare is €4.70, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your German souvenirs is a value-added tax (VAT) of 19 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €25 (about $28) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is usually straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount on souvenirs.
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document, called a “Tax-Free Shopping Check.” You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour before you need to check in to allow time to find the customs office—and to stand in line. Some customs desks are positioned before airport security; confirm the location before going through security.
It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If they’re too large or dangerous to carry on (such as knives), pack them in your checked bags and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security; someone will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new lederhosen, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. Many merchants work with services, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, that have offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card (within two billing cycles). Other refund services may require you to mail the documents from home, or more quickly, from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Berlin’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, and local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps. Maps with even more detail are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device. Be aware that pulling up maps or turn-by-turn walking directions on the fly requires an Internet connection: To use this feature, it’s smart to get an international data plan (see here). With Google Maps or City Maps 2Go, it’s possible to download a map while online, then go offline and navigate without incurring data-roaming charges, though you can’t search for an address or get real-time walking directions. A handful of other apps—including Apple Maps, OffMaps, and Navfree—also allow you to use maps offline.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see “Berlin at a Glance” (here). Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Given how precious your vacation time is, I recommend getting reservations for any must-see sight that offers them (see here). Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is on here; check online for possible museum closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late; in the off-season, hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Be warned that you may not be allowed to enter if you arrive less than 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Allow extra time for these lines in your planning. Most museums in Germany require you to check any bag bigger than a purse, and sometimes even purses. Museum lockers are free, but be prepared to pay a €2 deposit.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Audioguides and Apps: Most of Berlin’s top museums are run by the government, and offer excellent audioguides that are included in admission (though you’ll need to leave an ID as a deposit). Other, privately run museums charge a rental fee, often $3-5. If you bring along your earbuds, you can enjoy better sound. To save money, bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. Museums and sights often offer free apps that you can download to your mobile device (check their websites). And, I’ve produced a free, downloadable audio tour for my Best of Berlin City Walk; look for the 
symbol in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Services: Important sights may have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy places to rejuvenate during a long visit). Berlin’s state-run museums offer free loaner stools, inviting you to camp out and really ponder your favorite work of art. The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list hotels scattered throughout Berlin, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods. My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to fancy rooms with all the comforts.
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping chapter. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager and stable staff, and run with a respect for German traditions. I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a fancy gym. Most places I recommend fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times, such as Easter weekend, the first weekend and Ascension weekend in May, Green Week in mid-January, the ITB travel show in mid-March, or Germany Unity Day on October 3. See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Germany; for tips on making reservations, see here. Many German hotel chains have multiple branches scattered across a city; be sure you’re booking the one you want.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest an estimated cost for a one-night stay in a standard double room with a private toilet and shower in high season, include breakfast, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through a booking site, which extracts a commission and logically closes the door on special deals). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but these relative price categories remain constant.
Room rates are especially volatile at larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing” to set rates. Prices can skyrocket during festivals and conventions, while business hotels can have deep discounts on weekends when demand plummets. Of the many hotels I recommend, it’s difficult to say which will be the best value on a given day—until you do your homework.
Once your dates are set, check the specific price for your preferred stay at several hotels. You can do this either by comparing prices online on the hotels’ own websites, or by emailing several hotels directly and asking for their best rate. Even if you start your search on a booking site such as TripAdvisor or Booking.com, you’ll usually find the best deal through a hotel’s own website. (While many hotels are contractually obligated not to undercut booking site prices, when you go direct, the hotel avoids the 15-20 percent commission, giving them wiggle room to treat you better—offering perhaps a nicer room or free breakfast.)
Some hotels offer a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. To cut costs further, try asking for a cheaper room (for example, with a shared bathroom or no window) or offer to skip breakfast.
Additionally, some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify you must book directly (that is, not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve and show it upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
Berlin hoteliers charge a daily tourist tax (5 percent of the room rate). This may be included in the room price or may appear as an extra charge on your bill.
Chain hotels can be a good value, especially in Berlin; along with those listed in the Sleeping in Berlin chapter, the Europe-wide Ibis/Mercure chain has many options (www.accorhotels.com). I’m also impressed with the homegrown, Hamburg-based German chain called Motel One, which specializes in affordable style and has several branches in Berlin (www.motel-one.com).
In this book, the price for a double room in a hotel ranges from €50 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to €400-plus (maximum plumbing and the works). Breakfast is generally not included in the quoted rate, but you can usually add or remove a breakfast option when booking (sometimes continental, but often buffet; see here).
Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
Arrival and Check-In: Hotel elevators are becoming more common, though some older buildings still lack them. Bigger hotels commonly have elevators. When you’re inside an elevator, press “E” to descend to the “ground floor” (Erdgeschoss). You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up). Elevators are typically very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up without you.
When you check in, the receptionist will normally ask for your passport and keep it for anywhere from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours. The EU requires that hotels collect your name, nationality, and ID number. Relax. Americans are notorious for making this chore more difficult than it needs to be.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: In Germany, as elsewhere in northern Europe, beds don’t come with a top sheet or blankets, but only with a comforter. A double bed comes with two comforters—rather than one bigger one. It also frequently has two separate mattresses and sometimes two separate (but adjacent) frames—even if the bed is intended for couples. (A “real” double bed with a single mattress is called a Französisches Bett—a French bed.) Rooms with truly separate twin beds are less common in German hotels. When Americans request separate beds, German hotels sometimes give them normal doubles with complete sincerity—reasoning that the mattresses, though adjacent, are separate. More pillows and blankets are usually in the closet or available on request. Towels and linens aren’t always replaced every day. Hang your towel up to dry.
Most hotel rooms have a TV, telephone, and free Wi-Fi (although in old buildings with thick walls, the Wi-Fi signal doesn’t always make it to the rooms; sometimes it’s only available in the lobby). There’s often a guest computer with Internet access in the lobby. Simpler places rarely have a room phone, but often have free Wi-Fi.
Air-conditioning is rarely needed, and rare at smaller hotels. If you’re here during a heat spell, ask to borrow a fan. Learn how the windows work: You’ll often find the windows tipped open from the top to air out the room, with the window handle pointing up. To close the window, push it in and rotate the handle so it points down. The third handle position is horizontal, which lets you swing the entire window open.
Most hotels have gone completely nonsmoking. Some hotels have nonsmoking rooms or floors—let them know your preference when you book.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in. That way you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy. English works in all but the cheapest places.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a café), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one, and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen out of my room.
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and even cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum-night stay, and compared to hotels, rentals usually have less-flexible cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no hotel reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Aggregator websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Roomorama, Booking.com, and the HomeAway family of sites (HomeAway, VRBO, and VacationRentals) let you browse properties and correspond directly with European property owners or managers. If you prefer to work from a curated list of accommodations, consider using a rental agency such as InterhomeUSA.com or RentaVilla.com. Agency-represented apartments typically cost more, but this method often offers more help and safeguards than booking directly.
Before you commit, be clear on the details, location, and amenities. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using the Street View feature on Google Maps. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, laundry, coffee maker, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Be clear about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? There are typically two kinds of hosts: those who want minimal interaction with their guests, and hosts who are friendly and may want to interact with you. Read the promotional text and online reviews to help shape your decision.
Apartments: If you’re staying somewhere for four nights or longer, it’s worth considering an apartment (shorter stays aren’t worth the hassle of arranging key pickup, buying groceries, etc.). Apartment rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry machines and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in. If you make good use of the kitchen (and Europe’s great produce markets), you’ll save on your meal budget.
Private and Shared Rooms: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. Some places allow you to book for a single night; if staying for several nights, you can buy groceries just as you would in a rental house. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some may be interested in getting to know the travelers who come through their homes.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer, and who can live with the idea of having strangers in their home (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). A good place to start is HomeExchange. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require you to pay the entire balance before your trip. It’s easiest and safest to pay through the site where you found the listing. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline to avoid fees; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
A hostel (Jugendherberge) provides cheap beds where you sleep alongside strangers for about €25 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one for a small fee). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or pay extra per night.
Germanic cuisine is heavy, hearty, and—by European standards—inexpensive. Each region has its specialties, which are often good values. Order house specials whenever possible. Though it’s tasty, German food can get monotonous unless you look beyond the schnitzel and wurst. Fortunately, German chefs are increasingly adopting international influences, picking up previously unknown spices and ingredients to jazz up “Modern German” cuisine. Be adventurous.
I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest the average price of a typical main course—but not necessarily a complete meal. Obviously, expensive items (like steak and seafood), fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate a place’s personality:
Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches.
Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a straightforward, fill-the-tank meal. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a good taste of local cuisine on a budget.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and cuisine. These are ideal for a memorable meal that doesn’t break the bank. This category often includes affordable “destination” or “foodie” restaurants. And splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, pricey and intricate cuisine, and an expansive (and expensive) wine list.
I haven’t categorized places where you might assemble a picnic, snack, or graze: supermarkets, delis, ice cream-stands, cafés or bars specializing in drinks, chocolate shops, and so on.
Most Berlin hotels offer breakfast for an extra fee (it’s generally not included in the base room price). German hotels pride themselves on laying out an attractive buffet spread. Expect sliced bread, rolls, pastries, cereal, yogurt (both plain and with fruit), cold cuts, cheese, and fruit. You’ll always find coffee, tea, and some sort of Saft (juice). Along with orange, apple, and grapefruit, multivitamin juice is popular. This sweet, smooth blend of various fruits is less acidic than a citrus juice. A bottle of mineral water is standing by to mix with any juice to turn it into a Schorle (spritzer).
For breakfast, most Germans prefer a sandwich with cold cuts and/or a bowl of Müsli (an oat cereal like granola, but less sweet), sometimes mixed with corn flakes. Instead of pouring milk over cereal, most Germans begin with a dollop of yogurt (or Quark—sweet curds that resemble yogurt), then sprinkle the cereal on top. If it’s not sweet enough, drizzle on some Honig (honey). Bircher Müsli is a healthy mix of oats, nuts, yogurt, and fruit. To make a German-style sandwich for breakfast, layer Aufschnitt (cold cuts), Schinken (ham), Streichwurst (meat spread, most often Leberwurst—liver spread), and Käse (cheese) on a slice of bread or a roll.
If a buffet has eggs, they’re most likely soft-boiled (weichgekochte Eier). To eat it as the Germans do, set the egg in its stand, gently break the shell around its perimeter, remove the top half of the shell, salt it, and eat it as if from a tiny bowl. Hard-boiled eggs (hartgekochte Eier) are often served with rémoulade (similar to tartar sauce). Occasionally a buffet will have Rühreier (scrambled eggs) or Spiegeleier (fried eggs—literally “mirror eggs”—typically sunny-side up).
In some hotels, a small garbage can is set on the table for you to dispose of trash as you eat.
Traditional restaurants go by many names. For basic, stick-to-the-ribs meals—and plenty of beer—look for a beer hall (Brauhaus) or beer garden (Biergarten). Gasthaus, Gasthof, Gaststätte, and Gaststube all loosely describe an informal, inn-type eatery. A Kneipe is a bar, and a Keller (or Ratskeller) is a restaurant or tavern located in a cellar. A Weinstube serves wine and usually traditional food as well.
Germans are health-conscious and quite passionate about choosing organic (Bio) products: Bio fruits and vegetables, and even Bio bread, ice cream, and schnitzel. You’ll often see footnotes on restaurant menus marking which dishes have artificial ingredients. However, despite Germans’ healthy ways, many starchy, high-fat, high-calorie traditional foods remain staples of the national diet. (For a rundown of common German foods, see “Traditional German Fare,” later.)
Most eateries have menus tacked onto their front doors, with an English menu inside. If you see a Stammtisch sign hanging over a table at a restaurant or pub, it means that it’s reserved for regulars—don’t sit here unless invited. Once you’re seated, take your time—only a rude waiter will rush you. Good service is relaxed (slow to an American).
To wish others “Happy eating!” offer a cheery “Guten Appetit!” When you want the bill, say, “Die Rechnung, bitte” (dee REHKH-noong, BIT-teh).
Tipping: You only need to tip at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip. At restaurants with wait staff, it’s common to tip after a good meal by rounding up (roughly 10 percent). Rather than leaving coins behind on the table (considered slightly rude), Germans usually pay directly: When the server comes by with the bill, simply hand over paper money, stating the total you’d like to pay. For example, if paying for a €10 meal with a €20 bill, while handing your money to the server, say “Eleven, please” (or “Elf, bitte” if you’ve got your German numbers down). The server will keep a €1 tip and give you €9 in change.
Lately, many restaurants—especially those in well-touristed areas—have added a “Tip is not included” line, in English, to the bottom of the bill. This is misleading, as the prices on any menu in Germany do include service. I wouldn’t tip one cent more at a restaurant that includes this note on the bill. (Supposedly the trend’s been prompted by an influx of tourists from cultures where it’s not customary to round up...though I’ve seen servers circle the “tip not included” line before presenting the bill to Americans, who are known to overtip.) Many Germans are rebelling by tipping far less generously at eateries using this approach.
It’s easy to eat a meal for €10 or less here. At lunchtime, locals grab a sandwich (around €2.50) and perhaps a pastry (€1-2) from one of the ubiquitous bakeries, which often have tables to sit at (but not table service). If there aren’t any sandwiches on display at the bakery counter, ask to have one made for you.
Department-store cafeterias (usually on the top floor with a view) are common and handy, and they bridge the language barrier by letting you see your options. A Schnellimbiss is a small fast-food takeaway stand where you can get a bratwurst or other grilled sausage (usually less than €2, including a roll); for a rundown of common sausages, see here.
All schnitzeled out? Ethnic restaurants provide a welcome break from Germanic fare. Italian, Turkish, and Asian food are generally good values. A freshly baked pizza, a Turkish sandwich, or a rice or noodle dish will cost you €4-7, and can be packed up to enjoy on a park bench or in your room.
Stands and shops selling Turkish-style döner kebab—gyro-like, pita-wrapped rotisserie meat—are common (€4 at any time of day). Turkish cafés abound, selling not only the basic döner kebab, but also several variations on the theme (see sidebar on here), plus falafel (chickpea croquettes), “Turkish pizzas,” and much more.
Some restaurants offer inexpensive €6-9 weekday hot-lunch specials that aren’t listed on the regular menu (look for the Tageskarte or Tagesangebot, or just ask—sometimes available at dinner, too). For smaller portions, order from the kleine Hunger (small hunger) section of the menu. Simple dishes of wurst with sauerkraut and bread tend to run €6-8.
Here are some typical dishes you’ll see at German eateries.
Traditional German dishes tend to be meat-heavy. The classic dish is sausage—hundreds of varieties of bratwurst, Weisswurst, and other types of wurst are served with sauerkraut as an excuse for a vegetable (see here for a list of common types of wurst).
Many traditional eateries serve some kind of meat on the bone, such as pork knuckle (Schweinshaxe) or shoulder, which has been roasted tender and goes down well with a big mug of beer. The fish and venison here are also good.
Another ubiquitous meat dish is schnitzel (a meat cutlet that’s been pounded flat, breaded, and fried). Though traditionally made with veal, pork schnitzel is cheaper and more common.
You’ll often see stuck on the beginning and end of menu items a form of the word Braten (which can mean “roasted” or “grilled” or “fried”)—as in Bratkartoffeln (roasted potatoes), Schweinebraten (roasted pork), or Bratwurst (grilled sausage).
Here are a few other specialties—both regional and nationwide—to look for:
Aal Grün: Boiled eel served with Spreewaldsauce (parsley, dill, and cream sauce).
Buletten: Giant pan-fried meatball, sometimes flattened like a hamburger.
Dampfnudeln: Steamed bread roll with various toppings (also available sweet).
Eisbein (or Hachse, Haxe, Schweinshaxe): Boiled ham hock.
Flammkuchen (or Dünnele): German version of white pizza, on a thin, yeastless dough; the classic version is topped with bacon and onions.
Geschnetzeltes: Strips of veal or chicken braised in a rich sauce and served with noodles.
Kassler (or Kasseler): Salted, slightly smoked pork.
Kohlrouladen: Cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat.
Königsberger Klopse (or Sossklopse): Meatball with capers and potatoes in a white sauce (a staple of eastern Germany).
Kümmelbraten: Crispy roast pork with caraway.
Labskaus: Mushy mix of salted meat, potatoes, often beets, and sometimes herring, onions, and sour cream.
Leber Berliner Art: Pan-fried veal liver served with sautéed apple rings and onions.
Maultaschen (“mouth pockets”): Ravioli with various fillings, such as veal, cheese, and spinach.
Mett (or Hackepeter): Raw, minced pork spread onto a roll.
Ratsherrentopf: Stew of roasted meat with potatoes.
Rollmops: Pickled herring fillets wrapped around a filling of pickled cucumber or onion. A popular hangover cure.
Rostbrätel: Marinated and grilled pork neck.
Rouladen (or Rinderrouladen): Strip of beef rolled up with bacon, onion, and pickles, then braised.
Sauerbraten: “Sour”-marinated and roasted cut of beef (sometimes pork), typically served with red cabbage and potato dumplings.
Saure Zipfel: Bratwurst cooked in vinegar and onions.
Schäufele: Oven-roasted pork shoulder with gravy.
Schlachtplatte (or Schlachtschüssel): “Butcher’s plate”—usually blood sausage, Leberwurst, and other meat over hot sauerkraut.
Schnitzel Holstein: Schnitzel topped with a fried egg, capers, and anchovies.
Schweinebraten (or Schweinsbraten): Roasted pork with gravy.
Senfeier: Hard-boiled eggs in mustard sauce served with potatoes (classic eastern German dish).
Spargel: Big, white asparagus in season in May and June.
Speckpfannkuchen: Large, savory crêpe with bacon.
Stolle (or Butterbrot): Simple open-faced sandwich with butter and one topping.
Stolzer Heinrich: Grilled sausage in beer sauce (Berlin).
Sausage (wurst) is a fast, tasty staple of the Germanic diet. Most restaurants offer it (often as the cheapest thing on the menu), but it’s more commonly eaten at takeout fast-food stands (called Würstchenbude in Germany). Options go far beyond the hometown hot dog. Most are pork-based. Generally, the darker the weenie, the spicier it is.
Sausages can be boiled or grilled. The generic term Bratwurst (or Rostbratwurst) simply means “grilled sausage.” Brühwurst means boiled. Kochwurst describes sausage made of precooked ingredients, then lightly steamed. While some types of wurst can be found all over, others are unique to a particular area (as noted below).
When surveying your options at a sidewalk sausage stand or butcher (Metzgerei), these terms may help:
Blutwurst (or Blunzen): Made from congealed blood. Variations include Schwarzwurst, Rotwurst, and Beutelwurst.
Bockwurst: Thick pork-and-veal sausage with a mild, grassy flavor and a toothsome, smoky casing.
Bosna: Spicy sausage with onions and sometimes curry (Austrian).
Cervelat: Smoky, mild, chewy sausage that’s butterflied at each end before grilling (mostly Swiss).
Currywurst: Grilled pork sausage (usually Bockwurst), often chopped into small pieces, with ketchup/curry sauce, served mit or ohne Darm (with or without skin; with skin tastes smokier). Though this dish originated in Berlin, it’s popular all over.
Frankfurter: A skinny, pink, boiled sausage—the ancestor of our hot dog (also called Wienerwurst, Wienerwürstchen, or simply Wiener).
Jagdwurst: Baloney-like “hunter’s sausage”—smoked pork with garlic and mustard.
Käsekrainer: Boiled, with melted cheese inside (Austrian).
Knackwurst (or Knockwurst): Short, stubby, garlicky beef or pork sausage with a casing that “cracks” (knackt) when you bite into it.
Krakauer: Type of Polish sausage (kiełbasa).
Landjäger: Skinny, spicy, air-dried (almost withered) salami. Ahle Wurst is similar.
Leberkäse: Literally “liver cheese,” this pâté is made of pork and beef (but, confusingly, no cheese and often no liver). Leberkäsesemmel is a pâté sandwich.
Leberwurst: Usually made from pig or calf livers and customarily served as a spread on open-face sandwiches, often with mustard or pickled cucumber.
Mettwurst: Made of minced pork that’s cured and smoked.
Milzwurst: Made of pig spleen (Milzstückchen).
Saumagen: “Sow’s stomach” stuffed with meat, vegetables, and spices.
Teewurst: Air-dried, often smoked pork sausage similar to prosciutto, traditionally spread on bread and eaten at teatime (hence the name). It can also be grilled.
Thüringer: Long, skinny, peppery, and wedged into a much shorter roll. Thüringer Rotwurst is a blood-sausage variation.
Weisswurst: Boiled white sausage (peel off the casing before you eat it), served with sweet mustard and a pretzel (traditionally from Munich but served at any Bavarian-themed restaurant). If it’s frisch (fresh), you’re supposed to “eat it before the noon bell tolls.”
Zwiebelmettwurst: Spicy, soft sausage made with raw pork and onions; usually spread on bread, it comes fein (smooth) or grob (chunky).
Accompaniments: Sauces and sides include Senf (mustard; ask for süss—sweet; or scharf—hot), ketchup, curry-ketchup, or Currysauce (a tasty curry-infused ketchup), Kraut (sauerkraut), and sometimes horseradish (called Meerrettich in the north, Kren in the south and Austria).
At sausage stands, wurst usually comes with a roll (Semmel—not your typical hot-dog bun). The sausage might be inside the roll, or it may come on a plate with the roll to the side. You might be given the choice of a slice of bread (Brot), a pretzel (Brezel), or in restaurants, potato salad.
Besides bread (Brot) and potatoes (Kartoffeln; boiled, fried, or grilled), other typical starches include:
Kartoffelsalat: Potato salad.
Knödel: Large dumplings, usually made from potatoes but also from wheat, sourdough, semolina, or even liver; baseball-size dumplings are called Klöss.
Schupfnudeln: Stubby, diamond-shaped potato noodles.
Spätzle: Little noodles made from egg dough scraped through a wide-holed sieve; often served with melted cheese and fried onions as a standalone meal (Käsespätzle).
Germans make excellent salads, and most menus feature big, varied, dinner-size salad plates. Besides grüner Salat (mostly lettuce), you’ll likely come across these options:
Bauernsalat: Greek salad, sometimes with sausage.
Bohnensalat: Bean salad.
Fleischsalat: Chopped cold cuts mixed with pickles and mayonnaise.
Gemischter Salat (or Bunter Salat): A mixed salad of lettuce, fresh and (often) pickled veggies, and a tasty dressing.
Gurkensalat: Cucumber salad—usually just cukes in vinegar.
Nudelsalat: Pasta salad.
Ochsenmaulsalat: “Ox-mouth salad” with vinegar, onion, and herbs.
Oliviersalat: Russian-style salad—potatoes, eggs, vegetables, and mayonnaise.
Wurstsalat: Chopped sausage in onion and vinegar.
Pretzels (Brezeln or—in Bavaria—Brez’n), either plain or buttered, make for an inexpensive snack. The brown crust comes from dunking them in water boiled with baking soda or lye.
Brotzeit (“bread time”) is the all-purpose word for a light between-meals snack that’s served cold. Brotzeit involves cold cuts, cheeses, breads, and other cold snacks, such as salads and some sausages. Other snack items include:
Kartoffelkäse: “Potato cheese” spread made of mashed potatoes, onion, and sour cream (but no cheese).
Krautsalat: “Coleslaw,” basically cold sauerkraut.
Matjesfilet: Raw herring in yogurt.
Obatzda: Pungent Bavarian cheese spread with paprika and onions.
Schmalzbrot: Bread smeared with lard.
Schnittlauchbrot: Bread with cream cheese and diced chives.
Streichwurst: Meat spread; the most popular is Leberwurst, made from liver.
Make sure to visit a bakery (Bäckerei) or pastry shop (Konditorei) to browse the selection of fresh pastries (Feingebäck) and cakes. Pastries can include the familiar Apfelstrudel and Croissant (sometimes called Gipfel, “peak”). Pastries often have a filling; these can include jam (Marmelade or Konfitüre), apple (Apfel), cherry (Kirsche), raisins (Rosinen), nut (Nuss), almond (Mandel), poppy seeds (Mohn), or the sweet cheese curds called Quark. Don’t mistake Mohn for cinnamon, which resembles Mohn but is far less common in German desserts. Here are some other sweets you might see:
Amerikaner: A flat, round doughnut with a thick layer of glaze frosting on top.
Berliner Luft: An airy dessert made of cream, eggs, and gelatin, and served with raspberry sauce.
Berliner Pfannkuchen: A jelly-filled doughnut, known simply as a “Berliner” elsewhere in Germany (so JFK was really saying, “I am a jelly doughnut”).
Rohrnudel: Roll-like sweet dumpling with raisins.
Schnecken: “Snail”-shaped pastry roll with raisins and nuts.
Gummi Bears from the German candy company Haribo are everywhere and taste better here, close to the source. Ice-cream stores, often run by Italian immigrants, abound. While you can always get a cone to go (ask for eine Kugel, a scoop—literally “ball”), many Germans sit down to enjoy their ice cream, ordering fancy sundaes in big glass bowls.
At restaurants, waiters aren’t exactly eager to bring you Leitungswasser (tap water), preferring that you buy Mineralwasser (mit/ohne Gas—with/without carbonation). Half-liter mineral-water bottles are available everywhere for about €1. (I refill my water bottle with tap water.)
Popular soft drinks include Apfelschorle (half apple juice, half sparkling water) and Spezi (cola and orange soda). Menus list drink sizes by the tenth of a liter, or deciliter (dl): 0.2 liters is a small glass, and 0.4 or 0.5 is a larger one. Buy juice at a grocery store in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle.
At stores, most bottled water and soft drinks require a deposit (Pfand; usually €0.15 or €0.25—listed in small print on the shelf’s price label), which is refunded if you return the bottle for recycling. You can generally return bottles to any supermarket, provided the bottle is a type they sell. Some supermarkets have vending machine-like bottle-return stations (marked Leergutrückgabe or Leergutannahme) that issue a coupon after you insert your bottles (redeem when you pay for your groceries). If you don’t want to bother getting your deposit back but do care about recycling, set the bottle on top of or right next to any trash can, whether on the street or in your hotel room. Chances are someone will collect it for the extra cash.
The average German drinks 40 gallons of beer a year and has a tremendous variety to choose from. Flaschenbier is bottled, and vom Fass is on tap. For more on Berlin’s beer scene, see here. Broadly speaking, most German beers fall into four main categories:
Helles Bier: Closest to American-style beer, this is the generic name for pale lager. Light-colored (but not “lite” as in low-calorie), a helles Bier is similar to a Pilsner, but with more malt. Helles Bier is usually served either in a straight glass (Stange, meaning “rod,” which its shape resembles) or a mug. Unfiltered lager (like cask ale) is Kellerbier or Zwickelbier.
Dunkles Bier: This is a general term for dark beer. Munich-style dunkles is sweet and malty, while farther north it’s drier and hoppier. Variations include Schwarzbier (a “black” lager with a chocolaty flavor), Rauchbier (with a “smoky” flavor, from Bamberg), and Weihnachsbier (or Festbier—a seasonal Christmas beer). Dunkles Bier, like helles Bier, is typically served in a straight glass or mug.
Weissbier or Weizenbier: “White” or “wheat” beer (better known in North America as Hefeweizen) is a yeasty, highly caloric beer. It is poured slowly to build a frothy head in a tall, rounded-top glass and served with a lemon wedge. Unfiltered Weissbier, especially common in the south, is cloudy (and usually called Hefeweizen). Kristallweizen is a clear, filtered, yeast-free wheat beer. Roggenbier is darker-colored and made with rye.
Pilsner (a.k.a. Pilsener or simply Pils): This is a barley-based, bottom-fermented, flavorful, hoppy, light-colored beer. Particularly common in the north, a Pilsner is usually served in a tall, slender, tapered, and sometimes stemmed glass. If it takes a while for the beer to arrive, it’s because they’re waiting for the head to die down.
Other Beer Drinks: Radler (literally “bicyclist”—designed to be refreshing and not too intoxicating for a biker on a hot day) is half lager and half lemon soda. Wheat beer and lemon soda is Russ (or Russ’n). Cola-beer mixes are also common: Diesel (a.k.a. Schmutziges or Krefelder) is cola and lager, and Colaweizen is cola and wheat beer.
Nährbier (“Near Beer”) is just that—low-alcohol lager. The closest thing to our “lite” beer is leichtes Bier—a low-calorie, low-alcohol wheat beer.
Nonalcoholic Beer: While virtually all nonalcoholic brews in the US are watery, bitter lagers, Germany produces some excellent alcohol-free white/wheat beers (Weisses), which have a somewhat sweeter flavor—very smooth drinking on a hot day. Teetotalers, or anyone who wants a refreshing beer at lunch without being tipsy all afternoon, can look for “ohne Alkohol” or “alkoholfrei.” There’s also the drink called Malztrunk (or Malzbier)—the sweet, malted beverage (resembling dark beer) that children quaff before they start drinking the real thing.
Though famous for its beer, Germany also has excellent wine. The best-known white wines are from the Rhine and Mosel, and there are some good reds (usually from the south), including Dornfelder (velvety, often oaky, sometimes sweet) and Spätburgunder (or Blauburgunder; German for “pinot noir”).
You can order Wein by the glass simply by asking for ein Glas, or to clarify that you don’t want much, ein kleines Glas (about an eighth of a liter, or 4 oz). For a mini-pitcher of wine, ask for ein Viertel (quarter-liter, about two glasses’ worth). For a half-liter pitcher (about four glasses), request ein Halber. For white wine, ask for Weisswein; red wine is Rotwein. Order your wine lieblich (sweet), halbtrocken (medium), or trocken (dry).
Here are some of the white wines you may see:
Eiswein: Ultra-sweet dessert white made from frozen shriveled grapes.
Gewürztraminer: Aromatic, intense, and “spicy.”
Grauburgunder: German for “pinot gris”—a soft, full-bodied white.
Liebfraumilch: Semisweet “beloved maiden’s milk” blending Riesling with Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau.
Müller-Thurgau: Light and flowery, best when young, smooth, and semisweet.
Riesling: Fruity, fragrant, elegant.
Silvaner (or Grüner Silvaner): Acidic, fruity white from Franconia, comes in jug-shaped bottle.
Weinschorle: A spritzer of white wine pepped up with a little sparkling water.
Many hotels serve the inexpensive Sekt, or German champagne, at breakfast. In winter, Glühwein (hot mulled wine) is popular.
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer is: more easily and cheaply than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone—either your US phone or one you buy in Europe. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. Each of these options is described below, and more details are at www.ricksteves.com/phoning. For a very practical one-hour talk covering tech issues for travelers, see www.ricksteves.com/mobile-travel-skills.
German—like English, Dutch, Swedish, and Norwegian—is a Germanic language, making it easier on most American ears than Romance languages (such as Italian and French). These tips will help you pronounce German words: The letter w is always pronounced as “v” (e.g., the word for “wonderful” is wunderbar, pronounced VOON-der-bar). The vowel combinations ie and ei are pronounced like the name of the second letter—so ie sounds like a long e (as in hier and Bier, the German words for “here” and “beer”), while ei sounds like a long i (as in nein and Stein, the German words for “no” and “stone”). The vowel combination au is pronounced “ow” (as in Frau). The vowel combinations eu and äu are pronounced “oy” (as in neu, Deutsch, and Bräu, the words for “new,” “German,” and “brew”). To pronounce ö and ü, purse your lips when you say the vowel; the other vowel with an umlaut, ä, is pronounced the same as e in “men.” (In written German, these can be depicted as the vowel followed by an e—oe, ue, and ae, respectively.) The letter Eszett (ß) represents ss. Written German capitalizes all nouns.
Though most young or well-educated Germans—especially those in the tourist trade and in big cities—speak at least some English, you’ll get more smiles if you learn and use German pleasantries. Study the German survival phrases on here. Give it your best shot. The locals will appreciate your efforts.
For more tips on hurdling the language barrier, consider the Rick Steves German Phrase Book (available at www.ricksteves.com).
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. Using your cellular network in Europe on a pay-as-you-go basis can add up (about $1.70/minute for voice calls, 50 cents to send text messages, 5 cents to receive them, and $10 to download one megabyte of data). To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Whether phoning from a US landline or mobile phone, or from a number in another European country, here’s how to make an international call. I’ve used one of my recommended Berlin hotels as an example (tel. 030/780-089-760).
Initial Zero: Drop the initial zero from international phone numbers—except when calling Italy.
Mobile Tip: If using a mobile phone, the “+” sign can replace the international access code (for a “+” sign, press and hold “0”).
Dial 011 (US/Canada international access code), country code (49 for Germany), and phone number.
To call the Berlin hotel from home, dial 011-49-30/780-089-760.
Dial 00 (Europe international access code), country code, and phone number.
To call the Berlin hotel from Spain, dial 00-49-30/780-089-760.
Dial 00, country code (1 for US/Canada), and phone number.
To call from Europe to my office in Edmonds, Washington, dial 00-1-425-771-8303.
To call within Germany (from one German landline or mobile phone to another), simply dial the phone number, including the initial 0 if there is one.
To call the Berlin hotel from Munich dial 030/780-089-760.
German Phone Numbers: Local phone numbers in Germany can vary in length (4-8 digits), as can area codes (3-5 digits). I keep it simple by always dialing the full number. Mobile phone numbers start with 015, 016, or 017, and cost more to call than landlines. Area codes are listed in this book, or you can get them from directory assistance (tel. 11833).
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: Some numbers, typically those that start with 018 (including some train and airline information numbers), are premium toll calls and cost more than a regular landline call. The per-minute charge should be listed in small print next to the phone number. International rates apply to US toll-free numbers dialed from Germany—they’re not free.
More Phoning Help: See www.howtocallabroad.com.
| European Country Codes | |
| Austria | 43 |
| Belgium | 32 |
| Bosnia-Herzegovina | 387 |
| Croatia | 385 |
| Czech Republic | 420 |
| Denmark | 45 |
| Estonia | 372 |
| Finland | 358 |
| France | 33 |
| Germany | 49 |
| Gibraltar | 350 |
| Great Britain | 44 |
| Greece | 30 |
| Hungary | 36 |
| Iceland | 354 |
| Ireland & N. Ireland | 353 / 44 |
| Italy | 39 |
| Latvia | 371 |
| Montenegro | 382 |
| Morocco | 212 |
| Netherlands | 31 |
| Norway | 47 |
| Poland | 48 |
| Portugal | 351 |
| Russia | 7 |
| Slovakia | 421 |
| Slovenia | 386 |
| Spain | 34 |
| Sweden | 46 |
| Switzerland | 41 |
| Turkey | 90 |
Before your trip, call your provider or check online to confirm that your phone will work in Europe, and research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, you’re best off saving most online tasks for Wi-Fi. You can access the Internet, send texts, and make voice calls over Wi-Fi.
Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi, but some—especially expensive hotels—charge a fee. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) have free hotspots for customers; look for signs offering it and ask for the Wi-Fi password when you buy something. You’ll also often find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can take lots of data, so do this sparingly or use it offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates apps. It’s smart to disable these features so your apps will only update when you’re on Wi-Fi, and to change your device’s email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network just long enough for the task at hand. When you’re done, avoid further charges by manually turning off data roaming or cellular data (either works) in your device’s Settings menu. Another way to make sure you’re not accidentally using data roaming is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts), and then turn your Wi-Fi back on as needed.
It’s also a good idea to keep track of your data usage. On your device’s menu, look for “cellular data usage” or “mobile data” and reset the counter at the start of your trip.
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, Viber, FaceTime, and Google+ Hangouts are great for making free or low-cost voice and video calls over Wi-Fi. With an app installed on your phone, tablet, or laptop, you can log on to a Wi-Fi network and contact friends or family members who use the same service. If you buy credit in advance, with some of these services you can call any mobile phone or landline worldwide for just pennies per minute.
Many of these apps also allow you to send messages over Wi-Fi to any other person using that app. Be aware that some apps, such as Apple’s iMessage, will use the cellular network if Wi-Fi isn’t available: To avoid this possibility, turn off the “Send as SMS” feature.
With a European SIM card, you get a European mobile number and access to cheaper rates than you’ll get through your US carrier. This option works well for those who want to make a lot of voice calls or need faster connection speeds than their US carrier provides. Fit the SIM card into a cheap phone you buy in Europe (about $40 from phone shops anywhere), or swap out the SIM card in an “unlocked” US phone (check with your carrier about unlocking it).
SIM cards are sold at mobile-phone shops, department-store electronics counters, some newsstands, and vending machines. Costing about $5-10, they usually include prepaid calling/messaging credit, with no contract and no commitment. Expect to pay $20-40 more for a SIM card with a gigabyte of data. If you travel with this card to other countries in the European Union, there should be no extra roaming fees.
I like to buy SIM cards at a phone shop where there’s a clerk to help explain the options. Certain brands—including Lebara and Lycamobile, both of which operate in multiple European countries—are reliable and economical. Ask the clerk to help you insert your SIM card, set it up, and show you how to use it. In some countries—including Germany—you’ll be required to register the SIM card with your passport as an antiterrorism measure (which may mean you can’t use the phone for the first hour or two).
Find out how to check your credit balance. When you run out of credit, you can top it up at newsstands, tobacco shops, mobile-phone stores, or many other businesses (look for your SIM card’s logo in the window), or online.
It’s possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel (or the increasingly rare public phone), and check email or browse websites using public computers.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls—ask for rates before you dial. You can use a prepaid international phone card (available at post offices, newsstands, street kiosks, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel. Dial the toll-free access number, enter the card’s PIN code, then dial the number. Even small hotels in Germany tend to have a direct-dial system, so callers can reach you without going through reception. Ask the staff for your room’s specific telephone number.
You’ll see public pay phones in post offices and train stations. The phones generally come with multilingual instructions; most don’t take coins but instead require insertable phone cards (sold at post offices, newsstands, etc.). With the exception of Great Britain, each European country has its own insertable phone card—so your German card won’t work in a French phone.
Avoid using an international phone card at a German pay phone—a surcharge for their use effectively eliminates any savings.
Most hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you can find them at Internet cafés (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). German keyboards are a little different from ours; to type an @ symbol, press the “Alt Gr” key and Q at the same time. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy it from a Web page and paste it into your email message.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.”
Get stamps at the neighborhood post office, newsstands within fancy hotels, and some minimarts and card shops. Avoid standing in line at the post office by using the handy yellow stamp (Briefmarke) machines found just outside the building. Warning: These machines give change only in stamps, not in coins.
The German postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).
If your trip will cover more of Germany than just Berlin, you may need to take a long-distance train or bus, rent a car, or fly. I give some specifics on all of those options here. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see www.ricksteves.com/transportation.
German trains—most operated by the Deutsche Bahn (DB), Germany’s national railway—are speedy, comfortable, and nonsmoking. Though German trains are fairly punctual, very tight connections can be a gamble. Once the obvious choice for long-distance travel within Germany, trains now face competition from buses offering ultra-low fares (described later).
If you have a rail pass, you can hop on any train without much forethought (though for a small fee, you can reserve a seat on a fast train). Without a rail pass, you can save a lot of money by understanding the difference between fast trains and cheaper “regional” trains.
Germany’s three levels of trains differ in price, speed, and comfort. ICE trains (white with red trim and streamlined noses) are the fastest, zipping from city to city in air-conditioned comfort, and costing proportionately more. Midlevel IC and EC trains are also white with red trim, but look older than the ICEs. Regional trains (mostly red and labeled RB, RE, IRE, or S on schedules) are slowest but cost much less. Milk-run S and RB trains stop at every station.
If you have a rail pass, take the fastest train available; rail-pass holders don’t pay a supplement for the fast ICE trains. If you’re buying point-to-point tickets, taking a slower train can save a lot of money. You also save with day-pass deals valid only on slower trains.
Schedules change by season, weekday, and weekend. Verify train times listed in this book at www.bahn.com. This website also includes public transport in cities (buses, trams, and subways). The DB Navigator app is also a useful tool.
At staffed train stations, attendants will print out a step-by-step itinerary for you, free of charge. You can also produce an itinerary yourself by using the trackside machines marked Fahrkarten (usually silver, red, and blue). The touch-screen display gives you an English option; choose “Timetable Information,” indicate your point of departure and destination, and then hit “Print” for a personalized schedule, including transfers and track numbers.
If you’re changing trains en route and have a tight connection, note the numbers of the platforms (Bahnsteig or Gleis) where you will arrive and depart (listed on itineraries). This will save you precious time hunting for your connecting train.
To reach Germany’s train information number from anywhere in the country, dial toll tel. 0180-699-6633 and ask for an English speaker.
The single-country German Rail Pass can be a great value, often saving money while allowing you to hop on trains at your convenience (for the most part, most daytime routes in Germany, including fast ICE trains, do not require seat reservations). Rail passes are an even better deal if you’re under 28 (you qualify for a youth pass) or traveling with a companion (you save with the “twin” rate). For only shorter hops, a rail pass probably isn’t worth it, especially if you get discounts on point-to-point tickets and day passes (explained below).
If you’re traveling in a neighboring country, two-country Eurail Select Passes allow you to pair Germany with Austria, Switzerland, France, the Benelux region, Denmark, Poland, or the Czech Republic. Three- and four-country versions of the Select Pass add more connecting countries (but not Poland). All passes allow up to two kids (ages 4-11) to travel free with an adult.
Your rail pass covers certain extras, including travel on city S-Bahn systems (except in Berlin, where it’s only good on S-Bahn lines between major train stations), German buses marked “Deutsche Bahn” or “DB” (run by the train company), and international express buses operated by Deutsche Bahn (covered by either a German Rail Pass or a pass for both countries of travel).
For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Ticket fares are shown in the “Rail Passes and Train Travel in Germany” sidebar, and for some journeys, at www.bahn.com (though not for most trains outside of Germany). Deutsche Bahn can charge a wide variety of fares for the same journey, depending on the time of day, how far ahead you purchase the ticket, and other considerations. Know your options to get the best deal.
First Class vs. Second Class: First-class tickets usually cost 50 percent more than second-class tickets. While first-class cars are a bit more spacious and quieter than second class, the main advantage of a first-class ticket is the lower chance that the cars will fill up. Riding in second class gets you there at the same time, and with the same scenery. As second-class seating is still comfortable and quiet, most of my readers find the extra cost of first class isn’t worth it. Germans tell me they never ride in first class unless someone else is paying for it.
A German Rail Pass lets you travel by train in Germany for 3 to 15 days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. Discounted “twin” rates are offered for two people traveling together. Germany can also be included in a Eurail Select Pass, which allows travel in two to four neighboring countries over two months, and it’s covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.
Rail passes are available through travel agents in the US or from Rick Steves’ Europe; the German Rail Pass (unlike Eurail-brand passes) is also sold at main train stations and airports in Germany. For more on the ins and outs of rail passes, including prices, download my free guide to Eurail Passes (www.ricksteves.com/rail-guide) or go to www.ricksteves.com/rail.
If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, buying individual point-to-point tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.
This map shows approximate costs, in US$, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.
Full-Fare Tickets (Normalpreis): The most you’ll ever have to pay for a journey is the unrestricted Normalpreis. This full-fare ticket allows you to easily change your plans and switch to an earlier or later train, without paying a penalty. (If you buy a Normalpreis ticket for a slower train, though, you can’t use it on a fast one without paying extra.)
Discount Fares (Sparpreis): If you reserve a ticket on a fast train at least a day in advance and are comfortable committing to specific departure times, you can usually save 25-75 percent over the Normalpreis. But these tickets are more restrictive; you must take the train listed on the ticket or pay a €17.50 change fee. Discounted fares go on sale nine months in advance and remain available until one day before departure, though the cheap seats often sell out earlier.
Savings on Slow Trains: You can always save money on point-to-point tickets if you’re willing to skip Germany’s high-speed trains (IC, EC, and ICE) and limit yourself to regional trains (most commonly labeled RB, RE, IRE, or S, but also a range of region-specific names). For example, Freiburg to Baden-Baden might cost €30 by ICE, €25 by EC, and €20 by RE train. To limit your search to these slower, cheaper trains, select “only local transport” on the Deutsche Bahn website or at ticket machines.
You may save even more with three types of extremely popular day passes valid only on slow trains: the various Länder-Tickets, the Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket, and the Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket. They are most cost-effective for groups of two to five people, but single travelers can benefit from them, too.
With a Länder-Ticket, up to five people traveling together get unlimited travel in second class on regional trains for one day at a very cheap price. There are a few restrictions: A Länder-Ticket only covers travel within a certain Land (Germany’s version of a US state, such as Brandenburg, where Berlin is), doesn’t work for the fastest classes of trains (ICE, IC, EC), and doesn’t cover travel on weekdays before 9:00. Still, Länder-Tickets offer big savings, don’t require advance purchase, and are also valid on local transit. For example, a Brandenburg-Berlin-Ticket covers five people traveling between Berlin and Wittenberg or Berlin and Potsdam for €29.
The Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket works like a Länder-Ticket, but gives you the run of the whole country. It’s valid on any regional train anywhere in Germany, but doesn’t include city transit (first person-€44, each additional passenger-€8, maximum of 5 travelers, only valid weekdays after 9:00).
The Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket is a cheaper weekend version of the Quer-durchs-Land Ticket, with looser conditions: It’s valid on all regional trains on a Saturday or Sunday (starting at midnight, not 9:00), it does cover local transit in some areas (buses, trams, subways—check specifics when you buy), and additional travelers pay only €4 extra (first person-€40, maximum 5 travelers).
Kids ages 6-14 travel free with a parent or grandparent, but the ticket needs to list the number of children (unless purchased from a regional-train ticket machine). Kids under age 6 don’t need tickets.
At the Station: Major German stations have a handy Reisezentrum (travel center) where you can ask questions and buy tickets (with a €2 markup for the personal service). You can also buy tickets from machines, which come in three types.
The silver, red, and blue touch-screen machines (marked with the Deutsche Bahn logo and Fahrkarten, which means “tickets”) are user-friendly. They sell both short- and long-distance train tickets, and print schedules for free. Touch the flag to switch to English (some rare screens are German-only). You can pay with bills, coins, or credit cards—but US credit cards may not work. There’s one exception: Any trip that is entirely within the bounds of a regional transport network (i.e., Berlin-Potsdam) is considered local: Tickets can only be bought on the day of travel, and you must pay cash.
Each German city and region also has its own machines that sell only same-day tickets to nearby destinations (usually including Länder-Ticket day passes). In cities, these machines also sell local public transit tickets. At some smaller, unstaffed stations, these machines are the only ticket-buying option. You’ll see the logo of the city or regional transport network on the machine. Increasingly, these machines are multilingual, with touch screens, and some even take American cards with a PIN (though others take only cash and German cards).
Some cities and regions still have older, silver ticket machines with smaller screens and plenty of buttons. To buy a train ticket from these machines, press the flag button until it gives you a screen in English. Then look for your destination on the long list of towns on the left side. If your destination isn’t on the list (because it’s too far away), you can buy the ticket on board (let the conductor know where you boarded so you won’t have to pay the small markup for buying a ticket on the train). If your destination is on the list, note its four-digit code and enter it on the number pad. The machine defaults to a one-way (Einfache) second-class ticket, but you can alter that with the buttons below the keypad (press Hin- und Rückfahrt for a round-trip ticket, and 1./2. Klasse for first class; also note the buttons for Länder-Ticket day passes and children’s tickets). Feed the machine cash (small bills are OK, but it won’t take credit cards), then collect your ticket and change. Gut gemacht! (Well done!)
On the Train: If you have enough cash, you can buy a ticket on board from the conductor for a long-distance journey by paying a small markup (US credit cards won’t work unless they have a chip). But if you’re riding a local (short distance) train, you’re expected to board with a valid ticket...or you can get fined. Note that ticket-checkers on local trains aren’t necessarily in uniform.
Online: You can buy German train tickets online and print them out, or have them sent to your phone as an eticket; visit www.bahn.com and create a login and password. If you print out your ticket, the conductor will also ask to see your passport. You can also book seat reservations (optional) with a rail pass for trips within Germany—start to buy a regular ticket, then check the box for “reservation only.”
As you board or exit a train, you’ll usually have to push a button or flip a lever to open the door. Watch locals and imitate.
On the faster ICE, IC, and EC trains, it costs €4.50 extra per person to reserve a seat, which you can do at a station ticket desk, a touch-screen machine, or online (especially useful with a rail pass or a second-class ticket). If buying a first-class ticket on these trains, you can add a seat assignment for free at the time of purchase. German trains generally offer ample seating, but popular routes do fill up, especially on holiday weekends. If your itinerary is set, and you don’t mind the small fee, seat reservations can be worth it for the peace of mind. They’re especially smart for small groups and families (€9 reservation cap for families).
On ICE trains, families with small children can book special compartments called Kleinkindabteil, which have extra room for strollers and diaper changing, for the regular seat-reservation price.
With rare exceptions, there’s no need to go through a US agent to make a seat reservation in advance of your trip; just do it online or at a German station. Reservations may be required on international trains and buses (specified in schedule). Slower regional trains don’t even accept them.
If you have a seat reservation, while waiting for your train to arrive, note the departure time and Wagen (car) number and look along the train platform for the diagram (Wagenstandanzeiger) showing what sector of the platform the car will arrive at (usually A through F). Stand in that sector to avoid a last-minute dash to the right car or a long walk through the train to your seat. This is especially important for ICE trains, which are often divided into two unconnected parts.
If you’re traveling without a reservation and are looking for an open seat, check the displays (or, in older trains, the slips of paper) that mark reserved seats. If you have a hard time finding an unreserved seat, take a closer look at the reservations—if you find a seat that’s reserved for a leg of the journey that doesn’t overlap with yours, you’re free to take the seat.
In stations without elevators, you can take advantage of the luggage belts along the stairs to each platform. They start automatically when you put your bag on the bottom or top of the belt.
Your bike can travel with you for €5 per day on regional trains or €9 per trip on fast trains. Deutsche Bahn’s helpful website even has a list of bike-rental shops that are in or near train stations. Rentals usually run about €10-15 a day, and some rental outfits offer easy “pick up here and drop off there” plans.
While most American travelers still find the train to be the better option (mainly because rail passes make German train travel affordable and no-hassle), ultra-low-fare long-distance buses are worth considering.
While buses don’t offer as extensive a network as trains, they do cover the most popular cities for travelers, often with a direct connection. The primary disadvantage to buses is a lack of travel flexibility: Buses are far less likely than trains to have a seat available for those who show up sans ticket (especially on either end of a weekend). And compared to trains, buses also offer fewer departures per day, though your options probably aren’t too shabby on major routes served by multiple operators. Trains also beat buses in travel time and convenience, although often not by much.
Bus tickets are sold on the spot (on board and/or at kiosks at some bus terminals), but because the cheapest fares often sell out, it’s best to book online as soon as you’re sure of your plans (at a minimum, book a few days ahead to nab the best prices). The main bus operators to check out are FlixBus (with the most extensive network, www.flixbus.de) and Berlin Linien Bus (www.berlinlinienbus.de).
Though not as comfortable as trains, each company’s brightly colored buses are surprisingly well outfitted and make for a more pleasant ride than your average Greyhound trip. Most offer free Wi-Fi and on-board snack bars and WCs.
Bus terminals vary; you may find a true depot with ticket kiosks and overhead shelter, or just a stretch of street with a cluster of bus stops. Serious bus stations are labeled across Germany as “ZOB” (for Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof—central bus station). While most cities’ bus terminals are usually a block or two from the train station, in some bigger cities (such as Munich and Berlin), bus travelers have to go a little farther afield to catch their ride.
Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. In many cities, couples can travel short distances by cab for little more than two bus or subway tickets. Taxis can be your best option for getting to the airport for an early morning flight or to connect two far-flung destinations. If you like ride-booking services like Uber, these apps usually work in Europe just like they do in the US: You request a car on your mobile device (connected to Wi-Fi or a data plan), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card. For more about taxis in Berlin, see here.
Rental companies require you to be at least 21 years old and to have held your license for one year. Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young-driver surcharge, and some rental companies do not rent to anyone 75 or older. If you’re considered too young or old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less-stringent age restrictions.
Research car rentals before you go. It’s cheapest to arrange most car rentals from the US. Consider several companies to compare rates.
Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. It can be cheaper to use a consolidator, such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com—or the often cheaper www.autoeurope.eu) or Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com), which compares rates at several companies to get you the best deal—but because you’re working with a middleman, it’s especially important to ask in advance about add-on fees and restrictions.
Always read the fine print or query the agent carefully for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
For the best deal, rent by the week with unlimited mileage. Be aware that diesel cars may not be allowed in Berlin, Munich, or other big cities—confirm with your rental company. I normally rent the smallest, least-expensive model with a stick shift (generally cheaper than an automatic). Almost all rentals are manual by default, so if you need an automatic, request one in advance; be aware that these cars are usually larger models (not as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads).
Figure on paying roughly $250 for a one-week rental. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. For trips of three weeks or more, leasing can save you money on insurance and taxes. Be warned that international trips—say, picking up in Berlin and dropping off in Prague—while efficient, can be expensive (it depends partly on distance).
As a rule, always tell your car-rental company up front exactly which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain types of cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off (especially if you’re crossing borders into non-Schengen countries, such as Croatia, where you might need to present proof of insurance).
Picking Up Your Car: Compare pickup costs (downtown can be less expensive than the airport) and explore drop-off options. Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting a location, don’t trust the agency’s description of “downtown” or “city center.” In some cases, a “downtown” branch can be on the outskirts of the city—a long, costly taxi ride from the center. Before choosing, plug the addresses into a mapping website. You may find that the “train station” location is handier. Returning a car at a big-city train station or downtown agency can be tricky; get precise details on the car drop-off location and hours, and allow ample time to find it.
When you pick up the car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Before driving off, find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
When you rent a car, you are liable for a very high deductible, sometimes equal to the entire value of the car. Limit your financial risk with one of these three options: Buy Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company, get coverage through your credit card (free, if your card automatically includes zero-deductible coverage), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW includes a very high deductible (typically $1,000-1,500), costs $15-30 a day (figure roughly 30-40 percent extra) and reduces your liability, but does not eliminate it. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you’ll technically have to decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card (which can be up to the full value of the car). In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges with your credit-card company. Before you decide on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save lots of money on tax and insurance. Leasing provides you a new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. You can lease for as little as 21 days to as long as five and a half months. Car leases must be arranged from the US. Two of many companies offering affordable lease packages are Europe by Car and Auto Europe.
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Device: The mapping app on your mobile phone works fine for navigation in Europe, but for real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic updates, you’ll generally need Internet access. And driving all day while online can be very expensive. Helpful exceptions are Google Maps, Here WeGo, and Navmii, which provide turn-by-turn voice directions and recalibrate even when they’re offline.
Download your map before you head out—it’s smart to select a large region. Then turn off your cellular connection so you’re not charged for data roaming. Call up the map, enter your destination, and you’re on your way. View maps in standard view (not satellite view) to limit data demands.
GPS Devices: If you prefer the convenience of a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car ($10-30/day). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. Note that the unit may only come loaded with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Also make sure your device’s language is set to English before you drive off.
A less-expensive option is to bring a GPS device from home. Be aware that you’ll need to buy and download European maps before your trip.
Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always make it a point to have a paper map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in when my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at European gas stations, bookshops, newsstands, and tourist shops.
Road Rules: Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and nearly all forbid talking on a mobile phone without a hands-free headset. In Germany, kids under age 12 (or less than about 5 feet tall) must ride in an appropriate child-safety seat. Seat belts are mandatory for all, and two beers under those belts are enough to land you in jail. You’re required to use low-beam headlights if it’s overcast, raining, or snowing. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light, unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click on “Travel & Transportation”).
Fuel: Unleaded gasoline comes in “Super” (95 octane) and “Super Plus” (98 octane). Pumps marked “E10” or “Super E10” mean the gas contains 10 percent ethanol—make sure your rental can run on this mix. You don’t have to worry about learning the German word for diesel. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at self-service gas pumps. Pay the attendant or carry enough euros.
Navigation: Use good local maps and study them before each drive. Learn which exits you need to look out for, which major cities you’ll travel toward, where the ruined castles lurk, and so on. Every long drive between my recommended destinations is via the autobahn (super-freeway), and nearly every scenic backcountry drive is paved and comfortable. Learn the universal road signs (explained in charts in most road atlases and at service stations). To get to the center of a city, follow signs for Zentrum or Stadtmitte. Ring roads go around a city.
The Autobahn: The shortest distance between any two points is the autobahn (no speed limit in many sections, toll-free within Germany). Blue signs direct you to the autobahn. To understand this complex but super-efficient freeway, look for the Autobahn Service booklet at any autobahn rest stop (free, lists all stops, services, road symbols, and more). Learn the signs: Dreieck (“three corners”) means a Y-intersection; Autobahnkreuz is where two expressways cross. Exits are spaced about every 20 miles and often have a gas station, a restaurant, a minimarket, and sometimes a tourist information desk. Exits and intersections refer to the next major city or the nearest small town. Peruse the map and anticipate which town names to look out for. Know what you’re looking for—miss it, and you’re long autobahn-gone. When navigating, you’ll see Nord, Süd, Ost, and West. Electronic signs warning of dangerous conditions may include one of these words: Unfall (accident), Nebel (fog), or Stau (congestion).
Autobahns in Germany are famous for having no speed limit, but some sections actually do have a limit, particularly in urban areas and near complicated interchanges. Sometimes there are electronic signs with “dynamic” limits that change depending on traffic conditions. There are also cameras that take pictures of the speeder’s license plate—so obey the law or be prepared to pay. In areas without an “official” maximum speed, you will commonly see a recommended speed posted. While no one gets a ticket for ignoring this recommendation, exceeding this speed means your car insurance no longer covers you in the event of an accident.
It’s important to stay alert on the autobahn: Everything happens much more quickly, and the speed differential between lanes can be dangerous for unaccustomed drivers. Watch for potential lane changers, whether from your right or from behind—a roaring Mercedes can appear out of thin air in your rearview mirror.
Even if you’re obeying posted limits, don’t cruise in the passing lane; stay right. Since it’s illegal to pass on the right on the autobahn, drivers will angrily flash their lights, and possibly tailgate, if you drive in a passing lane. Obstructing traffic on the autobahn is against the law—so running out of gas, or even cruising in the far-left lane—is not only dangerous, it can earn you a big ticket. In fast-driving Germany, the backed-up line caused by an insensitive slow driver is called an Autoschlange, or “car snake.” What’s the difference between a car snake and a real snake? According to locals, “On a real snake, the ass is in the back.”
Umweltplakette for Driving in German Cities: To drive into specially designated “environmental zones” (Umweltzone) in the centers of many German cities—including Berlin—you are required to display an Umweltplakette sticker. Literally “environmental sticker,” these already come standard with most German rental cars (ask when you pick up your car). If you’re renting a car outside of Germany and plan to enter one of these cities, be sure you have one (sold cheap—around €10—at the border and at gas stations; you’ll need the registration and legal paperwork that came with your rental; see www.umwelt-plakette.de).
Parking: To park on the street, pick up a cardboard clock (Parkscheibe, available free at gas stations, police stations, and Tabak shops). Display your arrival time on the clock and put it on the dashboard, so parking attendants can see you’ve been there less than the posted maximum stay. Your US credit and debit cards may not work at automated parking garages—bring cash.
Theft: Thieves easily recognize rental cars and assume they are filled with a tourist’s gear. Be sure all your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk, or even better, with you or in your room.
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is Kayak.com. An alternative is Google Flights, which has an easy-to-use system to track prices. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try Skyscanner.com.
Flying to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Off-season tickets can usually be purchased a month or so in advance. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see my hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at www.ricksteves.com/hub-airports.
Flying within Europe: If you’re considering a train ride that’s more than five hours long, a flight may save you both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
Well-known cheapo airlines include EasyJet and Ryanair. Others with strong presence in Germany are Air Berlin, Eurowings, Condor, WizzAir, and TUIfly. But be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying with a discount airline: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, pricey and time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. If you’re traveling with lots of luggage, a cheap flight can quickly become a bad deal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print before you book. These days you can also fly within Europe on major airlines affordably—and without all the aggressive restrictions—for around $100 a flight. For the best fares on these (which are often not changeable or refundable), you’ll want to book well in advance.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport. It’s also important to charge your electronic devices before you board because security checks may require you to turn them on (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
Begin your trip at www.ricksteves.com: My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, photos, and radio interviews organized by country; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; monthly travel news dispatches; a video library of my travel talks; my travel blog; and my latest guidebook updates (www.ricksteves.com/update).
Our Travel Forum is an immense yet well-groomed collection of message boards, where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (www.ricksteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers travel bags and accessories that I’ve designed specifically to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, other accessories, and a wide selection of guidebooks and planning maps (www.ricksteves.com/shop).
Choosing the right rail pass for your trip—amid hundreds of options—can drive you nutty. Our website will help you find the perfect fit for your itinerary and your budget: We offer easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (www.ricksteves.com/rail).
Small Group Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We offer more than 40 itineraries and have over 900 departures annually reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. We offer a 13-day Best of Germany tour; a 14-day tour of Germany, Austria, and Switzerland; a 12-day tour of Berlin, Prague, and Vienna; an 8-day tour of Munich, Salzburg, and Vienna; and a My Way: Alpine Europe in 12 days “unguided” tour (covering hotel and transportation) of alpine destinations in Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, and France. You’ll enjoy great guides, a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of 24 to 28 travelers), and plenty of room to spread out in a big, comfy bus when touring between towns. You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to get our Tour Catalog, visit www.ricksteves.com/tours or call us at 425/608-4217.
Books: Rick Steves Berlin is one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country guidebooks, city and regional guidebooks, Snapshot guidebooks (excerpted chapters from my country guides), Pocket guidebooks (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed country guides in a full-color, easy-to-scan format), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. Most of my titles are available as ebooks.
My phrase books—for German, French, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese—are practical and budget-oriented. My other books include Europe 101 (a crash course on art and history designed for travelers); Mediterranean Cruise Ports and Northern European Cruise Ports (how to make the most of your time in port); and Travel as a Political Act (a travelogue sprinkled with tips for bringing home a global perspective). A more complete list of my titles appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes, and we’re working on new shows every year. We have seven episodes on Germany—that’s over three hours of vivid video coverage of one of my favorite countries. To watch full episodes online for free, see www.ricksteves.com/tv.
Travel Talks on Video: You can raise your travel I.Q. with video versions of our popular classes (including talks on travel skills, packing smart, cruising, tech for travelers, European art for travelers, travel as a political act, and individual talks covering most European countries). See www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US, and you can also listen to it as a podcast on iTunes, iHeartRadio, Stitcher, Tune In, and other platforms. A complete archive of programs (over 400 in all) is available at www.soundcloud.com/rick-steves.
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve also produced dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe, including a City Walk tour in Berlin. My audio tours and other audio content are available for free through my Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized into handy geographic playlists. For more on my app, see here.
