In the 18th century, Frederick the Great transformed Berlin into a cultural capital. In the early 20th century, the city emerged as Europe’s counterculture capital—with a flourishing of edgy performing arts, from Marlene Dietrich’s cabaret-singer origins to Bertolt Brecht’s intentionally alienating theatrical staging. And today, Berlin remains a hub of both mainstream and alternative arts. This city has three opera companies, multiple symphonies and chamber orchestras, and organ concerts in churches nearly every day of the week. But you’ll also find wild dance clubs, hipster ballrooms, dilapidated techno beach bars, and smoky jazz cellars.
This chapter focuses on two big facets of Berlin’s entertainment scene: live music and how to spend your time after hours. In this sprawling city, options are many; I’ve focused on an (admittedly narrow) selection of ideas, with an emphasis on my favorite neighborhoods. Use these resources as a starting point to find entertainment and nightlife to meet your interests.
Entertainment Info: The TI can provide basic information about what’s on; for classical music, look for the free, monthly Concerti magazine. But to really understand your options, go beyond the TI. For good listings of live music, see www.askhelmut.com. If you’re serious about tracking down the local scene, shell out a few euros for a Berlin magazine (€4-5, sold at kiosks): For the young and determined sophisticate, Zitty (www.zitty.de) and Tip (www.tip-berlin.de) are the top guides to alternative culture (mostly in German); Exberliner Magazine has fewer hard details, but is colorfully written in English (www.exberliner.com). Also pick up the free 030 schedule in bars and clubs (www.berlin030.de).
Half-Price Tickets: Hekticket, Berlin’s ticket clearinghouse, offers advance tickets to concerts, cabaret, theater, etc. And every day after 14:00, they sell deeply discounted last-minute tickets (up to half off, ticket prices usually range from €10 to €40). You can either call or check online (tel. 030/230-9930, www.hekticket.de, pay by credit card), or visit one of their locations (cash only) to see what’s on the push list for that evening. Booths are near Alexanderplatz (Mon-Fri 10:30-19:00, closed Sat-Sun, Alexanderstrasse 1 across from Hotel Park Inn) and in City West (Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00, Sun 14:00-18:00, across from Zoologischer Garten train station at Hardenbergstrasse 29).
Smoking: Berlin bars that don’t sell food can allow smoking (unlike in much of Europe). Locals who are sensitive to smoke should check in advance that their chosen bar is nonsmoking.
Late-Hours Sightseeing: Berlin’s museums typically close at 18:00, but many stay open later at least one day a week, allowing smart planners to stretch their sightseeing day. Four of the biggies are open late every day: the Reichstag (until midnight, last entry at 22:00), the Museum of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (until 22:00), the Topography of Terror (until 20:00), and the Jewish Museum (Tue-Sun until 20:00, 22:00 on Mon). All the Museum Island museums are open until 20:00 on Thursdays. Outdoor monuments such as the Berlin Wall Memorial and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe are accessible, safe, and pleasantly lit late into the night, though their visitor centers close earlier.
Housed in a striking, modern building at the Kulturforum cultural complex, the Berlin Philharmonic is a perennial Top Ten orchestra in the world rankings. It’s under the direction of Simon Rattle until 2018 or so, when the baton will be passed to Kirill Petrenko. Inexpensive and legitimate tickets are often sold on the street an hour before performances. You can also buy tickets at the box office, by phone, or online (ticket office open Mon-Fri 15:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-14:00 except closed July-Aug, tel. 030/2548-8999—answered daily 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 16:00, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de). The philharmonic also presents a popular series of free lunch concerts (most Tue at 13:00 except in July-Aug, tickets handed out in person the same day—try to arrive by 12:00). For guest performances, you must buy tickets through the organizer (see website for details). For more on the building, see the end of the Gemäldegalerie & Kulturforum Tour chapter.
Other important classical-music venues in the historic core include the gorgeous, Schinkel-designed Konzerthaus Berlin on Gendarmenmarkt (home of the Konzerthausorchester symphony orchestra, popular 45-minute “espresso concert” series Wed at 14:00, tel. 030/203-092-101, www.konzerthaus.de) and the cutting-edge, Frank Gehry-designed Pierre Boulez Saal (theater-in-the-round for chamber music, not far from Bebelplatz at Französische Strasse 33D, tel. 030/4799-7411, www.boulezsaal.de). To enjoy an affordable (sometimes free) recital by talented students, consider the Hochschule für Musik Hanns Eisler, with two venues in the historical center (facing Gendarmenmarkt at Charlottenstrasse 55, and on Museum Island at Schlossplatz 7, tel. 030/203-092-101, www.hfm-berlin.de).
Berlin also has multiple opera venues. The most historic is the stately Staatsoper, on Bebelplatz overlooking Unter den Linden. While that building is being renovated, the Berlin State Opera is performing at the Schiller Theater (in City West, just north of the Savignyplatz hotel and restaurant neighborhood, U2: Ernst-Reuter-Platz, box office tel. 030/2035-4555, www.staatsoper-berlin.de). Quite different is Berlin’s famous Komische Oper, with a long tradition for avant-garde, adventurous performances of operas and operettas (near Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse at Behrenstrasse 55, tel. 030/4799-7400, www.komische-oper-berlin.de). And finally, the modern Deutsche Oper building (in Charlottenburg, near City West, just northwest of the Savignyplatz area) houses both its own opera company and the Berlin State Ballet (Bismarckstrasse 35, U2: Deutsche Oper, tel. 030/3438-4343, www.deutscheoperberlin.de).
Several Berlin churches and other venues offer frequent daytime and early evening concerts. Note that each of these is a historic building described in the Sights in Berlin chapter (and often in one of my walks or tour chapters). Even “free” concerts request a donation. Any of these can cancel unexpectedly, so confirm before making a special trip.
Marien Church, along Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse near the TV Tower, hosts free organ concerts twice weekly (Thu and Fri at 13:30, www.marienkirche-berlin.de), as well as a variety of other concerts.
Nikolaikirche, in the Nikolai Quarter, hosts 30-minute organ concerts on Friday afternoons (at 17:00, €8, www.en.stadtmuseum.de/nikolaikirche).
French Cathedral, on Gendarmenmarkt, hosts 30-minute organ concerts on Tuesdays (at 15:00, €3, www.franzoesische-friedrichstadtkirche.de), as well as a variety of other organ and choral worship services.
St. Hedwig’s Catholic Cathedral, on Bebelplatz, has free 30-minute organ concerts on Wednesdays (at 15:00, www.hedwigs-kathedrale.de).
Berlin Cathedral, on Museum Island, hosts evening concerts, ranging from organ to choral (often on weekends, starting between 18:00-20:00, tickets at the door—prices vary from free to €50, but often €10, www.berlinerdom.de).
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, the modern annex next to the WWII-ruined church in City West, hosts a series of quality concerts (sporadic schedule, often choral, some are free and others charge, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de).
Clärchens Ballhaus—not a church but the Scheunenviertel’s beloved classic ballroom—hosts concerts most Sunday evenings in its twinkling upstairs Mirror Room, the Spiegelsaal (often piano or small ensembles, €12—or €8 if you buy ahead, usually begins at 19:00 or 19:30, www.sonntagskonzerte.de).
Berlin has a lively jazz scene (for schedules, see www.jazzclubsinberlin.com). Here are some favorites that are close to my recommended accommodations. Each has live music nightly from 21:00 (doors open at 20:00).
In City West (near Savignyplatz), consider A Trane Jazz Club (great stage and intimate seating, €10-25 cover depending on act, Bleibtreustrasse 1—see map on here, tel. 030/313-2550, www.a-trane.de).
Near the TV Tower, B-Flat Acoustic Music and Jazz Club has live shows and jam sessions (from free to €10-14, in Alexanderplatz at Dircksenstrasse 40—see map on here, tel. 030/283-3123, www.b-flat-berlin.de).
Kunstfabrik Schlot, in a cellar between the Nordbahnhof and the Natural History Museum (northwest of Scheunenviertel), is another respected venue (from free to €12-15, tucked back in a courtyard at Invalidenstrasse 117, see map on here, U6: Naturkundemuseum, tel. 030/448-2160, www.kunstfabrik-schlot.de).
Since the cabaret days, Berlin has had a flair for the dramatic. Most of these offerings are in German only. If you’re adventurous or speak some German, this can be a plus; if not, confirm the language carefully before you book. For the big spectacles, the language matters less.
Bar Jeder Vernunft, in City West, offers modern-day cabaret a short walk from my recommended Savignyplatz hotels. This variety show—under a classic old tent perched atop the modern parking lot of the Berliner Festspiele theater—is a hit with German speakers and can be worthwhile for those who don’t speak the language (as some of the music shows are in a sort of Deutsch-English hybrid). Some Americans even perform here periodically. Tickets run about €25-30, and shows change regularly (performances generally Tue-Sat at 20:00, Sun at 19:00, seating can be cramped, south of Ku’damm at Schaperstrasse 24—see map on here, U3 or U9: Spichernstrasse, tel. 030/883-1582, www.bar-jeder-vernunft.de).
Just north of Unter den Linden, the Friedrichstadtpalast stages glitzy spectacles—going for Las Vegas-style bombast (Friedrichstrasse 107, www.palast.berlin). Nearby, a bit closer in to Unter den Linden, the historic Admiralspalast Theater features lower-key concerts, plays, and musicals (including the Distel Cabaret Theater company; Friedrichstrasse 101, www.mehr.de/en/venues/admiralspalast-berlin).
Other venues to consider: Theater RambaZamba, in Prenzlauer Berg’s Kulturbrauerei, highlights performers who are disabled and creatively transforms those “disabilities” into assets (www.theater-rambazamba.org). Chamäleon, inside Hackesche Höfe and handy to many recommended accommodations, is an intimate venue that tries to channel the creative spirit of 1920s Berlin (www.chamaeleonberlin.com). Kookaburra, between my Scheunenviertel and Prenzlauer Berg hotels, is a comedy club that regularly presents acts in English (usually Tue at 20:00, Schönhauserallee 184, www.comedyclub.de). And the Berliner Festspiele hosts a variety of performances, often Off-Broadway-type fringe theater (check their website to see what they’re up to lately: www.berlinerfestspiele.de).
Berlin has a staggering array of smaller music venues. Equip yourself with good information (see sources at the start of this chapter) and cast a wide net. In addition to the classical and jazz venues described earlier, here’s a sampling worth consideration: Frannz Club, in Prenzlauer Berg’s Kulturbrauerei, has been around since 1970 and was a DDR-era hotspot; today it attracts talented rock and alternative bands (www.frannz.com). Bassy Club, near Senefelder Platz in Prenzlauer Berg, is a surreal cowboy-themed club boasting “wild music before 1969,” with a loyal local following (www.bassyclub.com). Though it’s a dance hall, Clärchens Ballhaus also has live music Friday and Saturday nights; Ballhaus Berlin is another good option (see descriptions for both later, under “Dancing”). Aufsturz pub, the recommended pub in the Scheunenviertel, hosts jazz and other music (see here, www.aufsturz.de). And SO36, on Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg, is Berlin’s most venerable punk venue (www.so36.de).
Big concerts are often held at Olympic Stadium, Mercedes-Benz Arena in Friedrichshain, the Spandau Citadel, and the outdoor Waldbühne (“Forest Stage”).
Berliners have a knack for enjoying life without spending a lot of money. On a warm summer evening, it seems everyone’s out, simply enjoying their city. Here are some ideas for how to join them.
Great places to stroll while people-watching Berliners include the Spree riverbank (especially around Monbijoupark and Museum Island); Prenzlauer Berg’s Kastanienallee, Oderberger Strasse, and Helmholtzplatz; and Kreuzberg’s Paul-Lincke-Ufer, a leafy embankment on the Landwehr Canal with upscale homes and a lively boules court (see here). The Scheunenviertel’s Oranienburger Strasse (near the New Synagogue) and City West’s Europaplatz/Kurfürstendamm boulevard are packed, but are more tourist-oriented.
To nurse a drink, stop by a Biergarten. Big, beloved, and lively choices include Prater Biergarten, in Prenzlauer Berg (here); Schleusenkrug in City West, tucked back in the park near the Zoologischer Garten train station (here); and Golgatha Gaststätten in Kreuzberg’s Viktoriapark (here).
An even more summery variation is Berlin’s emerging beach bar scene—where people grab a drink along the riverfront and watch the excursion boats go by. The classic spot is the Strandbar Mitte in Monbijoupark, with a breezy and scenic setting overlooking the Bode Museum on Museum Island. Others are farther afield, in the Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg neighborhoods: Yaam is funky, with playgrounds, real sand, an African theme, and often live music (near the Ostbahnhof and Radialsystem—described later, www.yaam.de). Two more are farther east (close to U1: Schlesisches Tor): Badeschiff, a floating swimming pool with a bar (May-Sept daily, www.arena.berlin/en/location/badeschiff); and Club der Visionaere, a very cramped wooden pier with DJs spinning throbbing electronic music (Mon-Fri 15:00-late, Sat-Sun 12:00-later, www.clubdervisionaere.com).
Berlin, a magnet for new artists, is a great city for gallery browsing. Many galleries stay open late and welcome visitors who are “just looking.” The most famous gallery district is in the Scheunenviertel, along Auguststrasse (branches off from Oranienburger Strasse). Check out the Berlin outpost of the edgy-yet-accessible art of the New Leipzig movement at Galerie Eigen+Art (Tue-Sat 11:00-18:00, closed Sun-Mon, Auguststrasse 26, tel. 030/280-6605, www.eigen-art.com). The other gallery area is in City West, along Fasanenstrasse (near the Käthe Kollwitz Museum).
The old ballroom Clärchens Ballhaus has been a Berlin institution since 1913 (described on here of the Scheunenviertel Walk). At some point, everyone in Berlin comes through here, as the dance hall attracts an eclectic Berlin-in-a-nutshell crowd of grannies, elegant women in evening dresses, yuppies, scenesters, and hippies. The music changes every day—swing, waltz, tango, or cha-cha—with live music on Friday and Saturday (from 23:15, €7-9 cover; dance hall open daily from 11:00 until the last person goes home, in the heart of the Auguststrasse gallery district at Auguststrasse 24—see map on here, S-Bahn: Oranienburger Strasse, tel. 030/282-9295, www.ballhaus.de). Dancing lessons are also available (€9, beginner lessons Thu at 19:30 and Sun at 12:00, 1.5 hours). The $$ Gipsy Restaurant, which fills a huge courtyard out front, serves reasonably priced German and Italian food. If you enjoy the Ballhaus scene, consider the campy (and less venerable) Ballhaus Berlin, just west of Prenzlauer Berg (Chausseestrasse 102, U6: Naturkundemuseum, www.ballhaus-berlin.de).
Berlin boasts the largest tango scene outside Buenos Aires (well-described at www.tangoberlin.de). In summer, it’s easy to get a taste of tango on any balmy night in the riverside Monbijoupark, between Museum Island and Hackescher Markt. Most nights also include sessions with one or two other dance styles (€7 beginner classes often available; www.monbijou-theater.de). Also check out Tangoloft in Wedding, northwest of Prenzlauer Berg (Gerichtstrasse 2, take S-Bahn to Wedding station, www.tangoloft-berlin.de).
The “free” tour companies that cater to students offer wildly popular pub crawls, promising “four cool bars and one hot club” for about €12. Just imagine what kind of bar lets in a tour of 70 college kids. It can be fun...if you want to get drunk with a bunch of American students in a foreign country.
Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuzberg both have pockets of excitement. But these days, the most happening scene is a few tram stops or U-Bahn stops farther from the center, in the neighborhood of Friedrichshain (just east of Prenzlauer Berg). While this area is famous for its rowdy and exclusive dance clubs, here are some more accessible options.
One particularly striking Friedrichshain venue is Radialsystem, a red-brick industrial building right by the water and near the East Side Gallery. Priding itself on being a “space for arts and ideas,” they host everything from classical music to electronica (and good €5 meals to boot, Holzmarktstrasse 33, take S-Bahn to Ostbahnhof station, www.radialsystem.de).
The edgier RAW-Tempel, just north of the Warschauerstrasse S-Bahn station, is a huge complex of industrial buildings that have been renovated by a community group dedicated to hosting low-cost arts events, including club nights, concerts, a bar, and even a circus. It’s a ramshackle wonderland of twinkle lights and graffiti (www.raw-tempel.de).
Across from the Warschauerstrasse S-Bahn station is the iconic Monster Ronson’s karaoke bar, complete with private cabins and live music (daily 24 hours, Warschauerstrasse 34, www.karaokemonster.de).