Goat’s Cheese

Goat’s Cheese

Goat’s cheese is the Marmite of cheeses. People love it or they hate it. For goat’s cheese lovers, there are hundreds of varieties worldwide to try. And for those of you who haven’t fallen in love yet, there is nothing quite like a homemade goat’s cheese to change your mind.

Goat’s cheese is one of the oldest cheeses in the world. I adore it for many reasons, one of them being that goat’s cheese has about half the fat, cholesterol and calories of commercial cream cheese made from cow’s milk, which it sometimes resembles in texture. This is due to the fact that the cheese curds produced by goat’s milk are generally softer than those made from cow’s milk, and the resulting cheese is more acidic.

The heavenly taste of goat’s cheese has a lot to do with the way that goats, unlike cows, are ‘browsers’ rather than grazers, which means they eat a variety of grasses, weeds and wildflowers. The taste of the cheese often depends on the diet of the goat, so different areas – even within the same country – will produce different-tasting cheeses. They really are a product of their environment, which is why summer-season goat’s cheese is so delicious; it’s also a great season in which to have a go at making your own.

The production of goat’s cheese follows many of the same basic steps as for other types of cheese. Once you have become confident with the basic goat’s cheese recipe, don’t be scared to experiment; each time I make a goat’s cheese I do something different – mature it a little more, add new flavours or change the shape. Get creative!

Sainte Maure (left) is a classic goat’s cheese from the Loire, with a very recognizable shape. It is so delicate and crumbly when young that it is held together by a thin straw. The fresh cheese is ashed, then ripened to produce a log that is both creamy, sharp and full-flavoured.

Crottin de Chavignol (centre) originates from Chavignol in the Loire. This small cylindrical goat’s cheese has been produced since the sixteenth century and has a creamy, nutty taste. The more mature the cheese gets, the more it changes and develops, becoming harder with a more pronounced flavour.

Le Coup de Corne (right), from the Midi-Pyrénées, is traditionally made from cow’s milk yet the clever cheesemakers of Fromagerie Beillevaire have also made a delicious goat’s cheese version.

Creamy Goat’s Cheese

Before making goat’s cheese for the first time, I imagined milking a goat, then a dairy farm stocked with special equipment and ingredients … but making goat’s cheese at home doesn’t have to be complicated at all! This very simple version using citric acid and goat’s milk is the perfect recipe to try, especially if you are just starting out. This recipe can also be made with lemon juice instead of citric acid.

1 tsp citric acid

2.25 litres (4 pints/91/2 cups) goat’s milk

2 tsp salt

MAKES 2 x 150g (5oz) cheeses

You will need: a cheesecloth or muslin sheet, an instant-read thermometer and two goat’s cheese moulds (optional)

1 Dissolve the citric acid in 50ml (13/4fl oz) cooled boiled water, stirring until completely dissolved.

2 Put the milk and citric acid mixture into a pan and stir well. Heat the milk over a medium heat to 85°C (185°F), stirring continuously.

3 Once the milk is at the required temperature, remove from the heat. You should be able to see that the curds and whey have separated, but don’t worry if not. Set the pan aside, covered, for 30 minutes.

4 While the curds are resting, lay the cheesecloth or muslin over a colander in a bowl. When rested, gently pour in the curds. Drain, add the salt and mix gently.

5 Following the steps shown here, create a cloth bag and hang the curds over a sink or a bowl for about 1 hour to allow the whey to drain off.

6 Now you can shape the cheese by hand or ladle and press into moulds. This cheese can be eaten straight away or left in the refrigerator to firm up a little more. Store for up to 1 week in a sealed container in the refrigerator.

7 You can also add flavours to your cheese – try using fresh herbs, chopped sundried tomatoes or olives, or even sweeter flavours like raspberries and strawberries. You could also coat your goat’s cheese in herbs or black pepper. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

STAR CHEESEMAKER

KARDITSEL, BELGIUM

Cheeses: Florette, Mathilde, Cyriel, Corneel

In March 2015, cheesemakers Magda Bauweleers and Giedo De Snijder started at Karditsel. Sticking to the traditional craft of cheesemaking, they use organic goat’s milk from the Goerenhof goat farm in Lummen, Belgium. Karditsel produces 13 varied and delicious cheeses, ranging from the Florette, a young goat’s cheese with a thin layer of honey around the crust, topped with a mix of colourful, edible petals (it looks as good as it tastes); to the unusual Florence Maritime, a handmade goat’s Brie coated with a thin layer of seaweed – the taste of salty seaweed on a bed of creaminess is superb; and the Corneel, a raw milk goat’s cheese with rich flavours and a distinctive floral taste.

STAR CHEESEMAKER

CAPRIOLE, USA

Cheeses: Wabash Cannonball, Juliana, Sofia

Judy Schad has been making cheese since 1976, when she and her husband moved with their three young children from the city to a hill farm in southern Indiana. Judy makes over a dozen different goat’s cheeses with smooth, creamy and rich flavours, some harder cheeses that are very light, lemony and slightly sharp. My favourite, the fantastically named Cannonball, is by far our most well-known, best-loved cheese, and for good reason. This expressive little sphere packs a punch! Beneath her wrinkly exterior lies a complexity not often found in such a young cheese.

◁ Crumbly Goat’s Cheese

This recipe makes a perfect batch of crumbly goat’s cheese. By leaving the cheese to dry out for longer, it becomes drier and more crumbly than the smooth goat’s cheese. You can form the cheese in a shaped mould (as below) or make a herbed roll. Here I have used ash, or activated charcoal powder (see here), which creates a beautiful and rich cheese.

1 tsp citric acid

2.25 litres (4 pints/91/2 cups) goat’s milk

1–2 tsp salt, to taste

ash, to finish

You will need: a cheesecloth or muslin sheet, an instant-read thermometer and two goat’s cheese moulds (optional)

MAKES 2 x 150g (5oz) cheeses

1 Dissolve the citric acid in 50ml (13/4fl oz) cooled boiled water, stirring until completely dissolved.

2 Pour the goat’s milk into a pan and heat slowly over a medium heat until the temperature reaches 87°C (190°F). Make sure you keep stirring the milk so that it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan, and do not allow the milk to boil as this will affect the taste of the cheese.

3 You will see some steam and foam appear. Turn the heat down before the foam disappears and add the citric acid mixture. Stir and carry on cooking for a further minute over a low heat.

4 Remove from the heat and stir gently until you see the curds and whey separate. The curds will appear quite small and look different to cow’s milk curds. Don’t worry – keep at it.

5 Line a colander with a layer of cheesecloth or muslin. Slowly and gently pour the curds in. Leave to drain for 15 minutes.

6 Mix the salt into the curds and stir, then carefully gather the edges of the cloth together to create a bag shape. Press gently to get rid of any excess whey. Leave the cheese to sit for a further hour. The longer you leave the cheese, the firmer the end product will be. Then spoon into your moulds or shape by hand.

7 To finish, sprinkle the cheese with ash pushed through a tea strainer. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

◁ Courgette (Zucchini) and Goat’s Cheese Tart

Nestled in the heart of this flaky puff pastry tart is a mouthwatering combination of salty goat’s cheese, succulent courgettes (zucchini) and creamy crème fraîche. Perfect to serve at a summer party, as it is great for sharing.

2 tbsp olive oil

2 courgettes (zucchini), cut into 1cm (1/2-inch) slices

200ml (7 fl oz/generous 3/4 cup) crème fraîche

2 eggs

250g (9oz) crumbly goat’s cheese (see here)

1 sheet of puff pastry

salt and freshly ground black pepper

SERVES 6

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas Mark 6).

Heat the olive oil in a pan, then add the courgette (zucchini) slices and cook for about 10 minutes until browned.

In a mixing bowl, combine the crème fraîche and the eggs, then crumble in the goat’s cheese and add a little salt and pepper.

Lay the pastry dough over a 30 x 20cm (12 x 8-inch) baking tray (sheet), then use a fork to make small holes in the pastry dough. Place half the courgette (zucchini) slices over the pastry dough, then pour over the egg and cheese mixture, and finish with the rest of the courgette (zucchini) slices on top of the tart.

Bake for 30–40 minutes until browned. The tart can be eaten warm or left to cool. Serve with a rocket (arugula) and red onion salad.

STAR CHEESEMAKER

CYPRESS GROVE, USA

Cheeses: Humboldt Fog, Bermuda Triangle

Cheesemaker Mary Keehn became interested in Alpine dairy goats while searching for a healthy source of milk for her young children. In 1983, Mary officially launched Cypress Grove. She tasted and tested and learned from the masters and makers of Brie, Camembert, Morbier and more in France, and suffice to say, Mary found her muse. At the time, commercial goat’s cheese production was nearly unheard of in the US, but Mary and a few other goat’s cheesemakers began to spread the word. Today, Cypress Grove is known worldwide for its fresh, soft and aged cheeses.

◁ Goat’s Cheese and Spinach Filo Swirls

This is my take on the Greek spanakopita, a crispy filo (phyllo) pastry with a wonderfully cheesy spinach filling. The traditional spanakopita spiral is made with feta, but I love the tanginess that goat’s cheese brings to it.

cooking oil spray

2 large onions, thinly sliced

1 tsp light brown sugar

300g (101/2oz) fresh spinach, cooked and drained

4 small sheets of filo (phyllo) pastry

50g (13/4oz) creamy or crumbly goat’s cheese (see here or here)

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

handful of black sesame seeds

SERVES 4

Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas Mark 5).

Spray a little oil into a non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a low heat and cook the onions for 5 minutes, then add the sugar and cook for a further 5–6 minutes until the onions are golden brown. Stir through the spinach, then set aside to cool.

Lay out your pastry sheets and divide the onion and spinach mixture equally between them. Spread out evenly over the sheets, then top with the cheese. Season with the black pepper. Roll into sausage shapes and then into coils.

Spray a baking tray with oil and lay the coils on the tray (sheet). Bake for 8–10 minutes until golden brown.

Top with the sesame seeds, and serve.