Tibet

Area 1.23 million sq km / Pop 3.2 million

Why Go?

For many people, the highlights of Tibet will be of a spiritual nature: magnificent monasteries, prayer halls of chanting monks, and remote cliffside retreats. Tibet’s pilgrims – from local grandmothers murmuring mantras in temples heavy with the aroma of juniper incense and yak butter to hard-core visitors walking or prostrating themselves around Mt Kailash – are an essential part of this appeal. Tibet has a level of devotion and faith that seems to belong to an earlier, almost medieval age. It's fascinating, inspiring and endlessly photogenic.

Tibet's other big draw is the elemental beauty of the highest plateau on earth. Geography here is on a humbling scale and every view is lit with spectacular mountain light. Your trip will take you past glittering turquoise lakes, across huge plains dotted with yaks and nomads’ tents, and over high passes draped with colourful prayer flags. Hike past the ruins of remote hermitages, stare open-mouthed at the north face of Everest or make an epic overland trip along some of the world’s wildest roads. The scope for adventure is limited only by your ability to get permits.

When to Go

AMay–Sep The warmest weather makes travel, trekking and transport easiest.

AApr & Oct–Nov The slightly colder weather means fewer travellers and a better range of vehicles.

ADec–Feb Very few people visit Tibet in winter, so you’ll have key attractions largely to yourself.

Best Places to Eat

A Sumptuous Tibetan Restaurant

A Lhasa Namaste Restaurant

A Third Eye Restaurant

Best Places to Sleep

A Kyichu Hotel

A Yeti Hotel

A Gang Gyan Orchard Hotel

Tibet Highlights

1 Lhasa Rubbing shoulders with Tibetan pilgrims in this holy city

2 Gyantse Kumbum Marvelling at the murals of angels and demons in the 108 chapels of this architectural wonder

3 Mt Kailash Erasing the sins of a lifetime on the three-day pilgrim circuit

4 Everest Base Camp Rousing yourself from a yak-wool tent or monastery guesthouse to catch sunrise

5 Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway Riding the planet’s highest rails across the roof of the world

6 Samye Monastery Exploring the mandala-shaped chapels and stupas at Tibet’s first monastery

7 Friendship Highway Hiring a vehicle for the week-long trip along one of Asia’s great road trips

History

Recorded Tibetan history began in the 7th century AD, when the Tibetan armies began to assemble a great empire. Under King Songtsen Gampo, the Tibetans occupied Nepal and collected tribute from parts of Yúnnán. Shortly afterwards, the Tibetan armies moved north and took control of the Silk Road and the great trade centre of Kashgar, even sacking the imperial Chinese city of Cháng’ān (present-day Xī’ān).

Tibetan expansion came to an abrupt halt in 842 with the assassination of anti-Buddhist King Langdarma; the region subsequently broke into independent feuding principalities. The increasing influence of Buddhism ensured that the Tibetan armies would never again leave their high plateau.

By the 7th century, Buddhism had spread through Tibet, though it had taken on a unique form, as it adopted many of the rituals of Bön (the indigenous pre-Buddhist belief system of Tibet). The prayer flags, pilgrimage circuits and sacred landscapes you’ll see across modern Tibet all have their roots in the animist religion of Bön.

From the 13th century, power politics began to play an increasing role in religion. In 1641 the Gelugpa (‘Yellow Hat’ order) used the support of Mongol troops to crush the Sakyapa, their rivals. It was also during this time of partisan struggle that the Gelugpa leader adopted the title of Dalai Lama (Ocean of Wisdom), given to him by the Mongols. From here on out, religion and politics in Tibet became inextricably entwined and both were presided over by the Dalai Lama.

With the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911, Tibet entered a period of de facto independence that was to last until 1950. In this year a resurgent communist China invaded Tibet, claiming it was ‘liberating’ more than one million Tibetans from feudal serfdom and bringing it back into the fold of the motherland.

Increasing popular unrest in response to Chinese land reform resulted in a full-blown revolt in 1959, which was crushed by the People’s Liberation Army (PLA). Amid popular rumours of a Chinese plot to kidnap him, the Dalai Lama fled to India. He was followed by an exodus of 80,000 of Tibet’s best and brightest, who now represent the Tibetan government-in-exile from Dharamsala, India.

The Dalai Lama, who has referred to China’s policies on migration as ‘cultural genocide’, is resigned to pushing for autonomy rather than independence, though even that concession has borne little fruit. The Chinese, for their part, seem to be waiting for him to die, positioning themselves to control the future politics of reincarnation. The Dalai Lama’s tireless insistence on a non-violent solution to the Tibet problem led to him winning the Nobel Peace Prize in 1989, but despite global sympathy for the Tibetan cause, few nations are willing to raise the issue and place new business deals with China’s rising economic superpower at risk.

The Chinese are truly baffled by what they perceive as the continuing ingratitude of the Tibetans. They claim that Tibet pre-1950 was a place of abject poverty and feudal exploitation. China, they say, has brought roads, schools, hospitals, airports, factories and rising incomes.

Many Tibetans, however, cannot forgive the destruction in the 1950s and 1960s of hundreds of monasteries and shrines, the restrictions on religious expression, the continued heavy military presence, economic exploitation and their obvious second-class status within their own land. Riots and protests in the spring of 2008 brought this simmering dissatisfaction out into the open, as Lhasa erupted into full-scale riots and protests spread to other Tibetan areas in Gānsù, Sìchuān and Qīnghǎi provinces. The Chinese response was predictable: arrest, imprisonment and an increased police presence in many monasteries. The increasing desperation felt by many Tibetans has led to a spate of self-immolations by Tibetans across the region, including two in Lhasa’s Barkhor Circuit in 2012.

As immigration and breakneck modernisation continue, the government is gambling that economic advances will diffuse the Tibetans’ religious and political aspirations. It’s a policy that has so far been successful in the rest of China. Whether it will work in Tibet remains to be seen.

Climate

Most of Tibet is a high-altitude desert plateau at more than 4000m. Days in summer (June to September) are warm, sunny and generally dry, but temperatures drop quickly after dark. It’s always cool above 4000m and often freezing at night, though thanks to the Himalayan rain shadow there is surprisingly little snow in the Land of Snows. Sunlight is very strong at these altitudes, so bring plenty of high-factor sunscreen and lip balm.

Language

Most urban Tibetans speak Mandarin in addition to Tibetan. Even in the countryside you can get by with basic Mandarin in most restaurants and hotels, since they are normally run by Mandarin-speaking Han or Hui Chinese. That said, Tibetans are extremely pleased when foreign visitors at least greet them in Tibetan, so it’s well worth learning a few phrases.

8Getting There & Away

For most international travellers, getting to Tibet will involve at least two legs: first to a gateway city such as Kathmandu (Nepal) or Chéngdū (China) and then into Tibet.

The most popular options from the gateway towns into Tibet are as follows: flights from Kathmandu, Chéngdū, Kūnmíng, Xī’ān or Běijīng; the train link from Qīnghǎi to Lhasa; or the overland drive from Kathmandu to Lhasa along the Friendship Hwy.

At the time of writing, bureaucratic obstacles to entering Tibet from China were many and involved signing up for a preplanned and prepaid tour. The situation from Nepal is even trickier because of ever-changing group-visa requirements. Political events, both domestic and international, can mean that regulations for entry into Tibet change overnight. Nerves of steel are definitely useful when arranging flights and permits. Always check on the latest developments before booking flights.

Note that it can be very hard to get hold of air and train tickets to Lhasa around the Chinese New Year and the week-long holidays around 1 May and 1 October.

Flights, hotels and tours can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Air

There are no direct long-haul flights to Tibet. You will probably have to stop over in Kathmandu, Chéngdū, Guǎngzhōu or Běijīng, even if you are making a beeline for Lhasa, especially considering you need to to pick up your permit in your chosen gateway city before heading to Lhasa.

Land

Many individual travellers make their way to Tibet as part of a grand overland trip through China, Nepal, India and onwards. In many ways, land travel to Tibet is the best way to go, not only for the scenery en route but also because it can help spread the altitude gain over a few days.

All overland trips inside the Tibet Autonomous Region have to be organised tours with vehicle rental and a guide.

Train

Trains to Lhasa leave from Běijīng, Chéngdū, Shànghǎi, Xīníng and Guǎngzhōu daily, and every other day from Chóngqìng (via Xī’ān) and Lánzhōu, to link with the Chéngdū and Xīníng trains, respectively. A twice-daily train service from Lhasa to Shigatse started in late 2014. Future extensions will include lines from Lhasa to Tsetang and the eastern region of Kongpo, to the Nepal border and from Golmud to Dūnhuáng in Gānsù province.

All current trains cross the Tibetan plateau during daylight, guaranteeing you great views. From Golmud, the train climbs through desert into the jagged caramel-coloured mountains of Nánshānkǒu (Southern Pass), passing what feels like a stone’s throw from the impressive glaciers beside Yùzhū Fēng (Jade Pearl Peak; 6178m). Other highlights include the tunnel through the 4776m Kunlun Pass, where you can see the prayer flags at the top of the pass, and Tsonak Lake (4608m), 9½ hours from Golmud near Amdo, claimed to be the highest freshwater lake in the world. Keep your eyes peeled throughout the journey for antelopes, foxes and wild asses, plus the occasional nomad. The train crosses into Tibet over the 5072m Tanggu-la (Tánggǔlā Shānkǒu) Pass, the line’s high point.

8Getting Around

Tibet’s transport infrastructure has developed rapidly in recent years. Most of the main highways are now paved. Airports are springing up on the plateau and the railway line is slowly extending beyond Lhasa. In 2011 Tibet’s Metok county was the very last of China’s 2100 counties to be connected by road.

ATrain Great for getting to and from Tibet but of limited use inside Tibet, unless you are just taking a short trip from Lhasa to Shigatse and back.

ACar The only way to travel around Tibet at the moment, since foreign travellers have to hire private transport as part of their obligatory tour.

ABus Lots of services, but foreigners are currently not allowed to take buses or shared taxis in Tibet.

TIBET TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS

The bottom line is that travel to the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) is radically different from travel to the rest of China; a valid Chinese visa is not enough to visit Tibet. You’ll also need several permits, foremost of which is a Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit, and to get these you have to book a tour. At a minimum you will need to hire a guide for your entire stay and transport for any travel outside Lhasa.

Travel regulations to Tibet are constantly in flux, dependent largely on political events in Lhasa and Běijīng. Don’t be surprised if the permit system is radically different from how we describe it. In fact, expect it. One of the best places for updated information is the dedicated Tibet page of Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree, at www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree.

Other good sources of permit information are the websites www.thelandofsnows.com and www.tibetpermit.org. The latter is run by an agency in Sìchuān but is generally reliable on permit matters.

Start your tour planning two months in advance. Agencies need two to four weeks to arrange permits.

All of the rules have exceptions and by the time you have finished reading the below list of tips and fine print, many of them will probably have changed:

AA valid Chinese visa is required. A Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit is also required to enter Tibet.

AYou need a TTB permit to board a train or plane to Lhasa. You will need to arrange an itinerary through a travel agent before arriving in Tibet.

AYou need travel permits to travel outside Lhasa prefecture and you can currently only get these by hiring transportation and a guide. Foreigners are not allowed to take public transport outside Lhasa.

AIf you plan to enter Tibet from Nepal, you will have to travel on a short-term group visa available in Kathmandu, which is hard to extend and can make it tricky to continue into the rest of China.

AIn Lhasa budget travellers can hire a guide without transport and just take taxis around town. You can also travel to Shigatse by train without the need for vehicle hire.

AChinese residents of Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan do not require a TTB permit to enter Tibet, though foreigners residing in China do.

AJournalists and embassy staff will find it impossible to get a TTB permit as tourists. Visitors on business, student or resident visas will have to procure a letter of introduction from their school or employer.

ANorwegians were unable to get permits to enter Tibet at the time of research.

AA few travellers have managed to sneak into Lhasa without a TTB permit and stay there, but you still need to arrange a permit there in order to travel throughout the rest of Tibet. Most hotels ask to see your TTB permit before checking you in.

ATTB permits generally take three days to process and are not available during weekends. The actual permit is a sheet of paper listing the names and passport numbers of all group members.

AIf you are planning to arrive in Lhasa on a flight or dates that differ from those of your travel companions, your agency may have to issue a separate TTB permit for the time you are by yourself. When you meet your friends you’ll then join the main permit. There doesn’t seem to be a problem getting on a flight with one or two group members not present.

AYou will likely have to wire or transfer a deposit to your travel agency’s Bank of China account in Lhasa, though some agencies accept PayPal. You will pay the balance in cash in Lhasa. Check with the agency.

TIBET TOURISM BUREAU PERMIT

Without a Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit you will not be able to board a flight or train to Tibet or cross overland from Nepal and you will not be able to secure the other permits you need to continue travelling throughout Tibet.

How these rules are interpreted depends on the political climate in Tibet. These days you can only get a TTB permit through a tour agency in Tibet (agencies outside Tibet can arrange trips, but ultimately they book through a Tibetan-based agency). Everything must be arranged beforehand, including any trekking.

To get a permit you need to:

Awork out an itinerary detailing exactly where you want to go in Tibet

Apay for a guide for every day of your tour, including arrival and departure days, at a rate of around ¥250 per day

Ahire a vehicle for all transport outside Lhasa

Aagree a price and send a deposit, normally through PayPal or a bank transfer (check the transfer charges)

Asend a scan of your passport information pages and Chinese visa

Aarrange an address in China (usually that of a hotel, guesthouse or local agency) to receive your posted TTB permit, if flying to Lhasa.

What your tour actually involves depends on the agency. Some offer all-inclusive tours, while others will arrange transport, a guide and permits but leave accommodation, food and entry fees up to you. You can book your own train or air ticket to Lhasa or have the agency arrange this. Some airline offices and online booking agencies will sell flights to Lhasa to foreigners, but others won’t unless you can show you have a TTB permit. Some agencies require you to have a prebooked ticket out of Tibet, but most are happy for you to arrange this in Lhasa. Treks fall under the same permit requirements as normal tours.

You need to have the original permit in your hands in order to board a flight to Lhasa, so most agencies arrange to post the permit through an agency or hostel. This can cost anything from ¥25 for normal post (four working days) to ¥180/280/380 for 36-/24-/18-hour express post. A photocopy or scan of an original TTB permit is currently all that is required to board a train to Tibet, which saves on postage fees. The permit is actually free, though most agencies charge a few hundred yuan per person for the bureaucratic runaround.

Agencies can only apply for some permits 15 days before departure, so there is invariably a last-minute rush to get permits posted to you in time. Travel restrictions and closures occur without warning, as with the closure of Ngari (western Tibet) for several months in summer 2014 or the whole of Tibet for a week in June 2016. Note that official regulations change particularly quickly if there are any political disturbances. In 2012 temporary regulations were introduced requiring that groups have a minimum of five persons, all of the same nationality. A few months later Tibet was closed to foreigners completely for a short time, after two cases of self-immolation in Lhasa.

TTB permits are not issued in March due to the anniversary of several politically sensitive dates. Assuming the political situation is calm, permits normally start to be reissued in the last week of March and agencies only know the new season's permit regulations for sure by the end of March. The last-minute nature and uncertainty that comes with this obviously complicates booking train and flight tickets; we recommend booking a fully refundable ticket if possible and taking out trip-cancellation insurance in case your permits fail to materialise.

ALIEN'S TRAVEL PERMITS & MILITARY PERMITS

Once you have a visa and have managed to wangle a TTB permit, you might think you're home and dry. Think again. Your agency will need to arrange an alien's travel permit for most of your travels outside Lhasa.

Travel permits are not needed for Lhasa or places just outside the city such as Ganden Monastery, but most other areas do technically require permits. Permits are most easily arranged in the regional capital, so for Ngari (western Tibet) you’ll have to budget an hour in Shigatse, and possibly also Ali or Darchen, for your guide to process the permit. Agencies can only arrange a travel permit for those on a tour with them.

Sensitive border areas – such as Mt Kailash, the road to Kashgar and the Nyingtri region of eastern Tibet – also require a military permit and a foreign-affairs permit. For remote places such as the Yarlung Tsangpo gorges in southeastern Tibet, the roads through Lhoka south of Gyantse or for any border area, you will likely not be able to get permits even if you book a tour. Regions can close at short notice. The entire Chamdo prefecture has been closed since 2010, effectively blocking overland trips from Sìchuān and Yúnnán. You’ll have to check to see if this has changed.

You should give your agency a week to 10 days to arrange your permits, and three weeks if military or other permits are required. The authorities generally won’t issue permits more than 15 days in advance. Local Public Security Bureau (PSB) officers often make the ultimate decision on whether you can visit a site, so you’ll need a certain flexibility if you're headed off the beaten track.

TOUR AGENCIES IN TIBET

In general, Tibetan tour agencies are not as professional as agencies in neighbouring Nepal or Bhutan. The following companies in Lhasa are experienced in arranging customised trips.

For good information on responsible tour companies and ecotourism initiatives in Tibet, visit www.tibetecotravel.com and www.tibetgreenmap.

Explore Tibet (%158 8909 0408, 0891-632 9441; www.tibetexploretour.com; 4-5 House, Namsel No 3, Doudi Rd) Contact Jamphel.

Namchen Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 0823; www.tibetnamchen.com; 2 Barkhor North St) At Barkhor Namchen Guest House. Contact Dhoko.

Road to Tibet (%133 0898 1522; www.roadtotibet.com; Jinzhu Xilu 8-5) Contact Woeser Phel.

Shigatse Travels ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 0489; www.shigatsetravels.com; Yak Hotel, 100 Beijing Donglu) Top-end tours from a large agency that uses European trip managers.

Spinn Café ( GOOGLE MAP ; %136 5952 3997; www.cafespinn.com; 135 Beijing Donglu) Contact Kong/Pazu.

Tibet Highland Tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 0898 5060, 0891-634 8144; www.tibethighlandtours.com; Danjielin Lu) Contact Tenzin or Dechen.

Tibet Roof of World International Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-679 1995; www.budgettibettour.com; Kailash Hotel, 143 Beijing Donglu) Offers scheduled budget tours across Tibet.

Tibet Songtsan International Travel Company ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-636 4414; www.songtsantravel.com; 2nd fl, Barkhor Sq; W) Run by Tenzin, this up-and-coming outfit is eager to serve new clients.

Tibet Tsolha Garbo Travel (%0891-633 3871, mobile 139 0891 5618; www.dmigmar.wix.com/tibet-tsolha-garbo) Contact David Migmar or Sonam Yergye.

Tibet Wind Horse Adventure ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-683 3009; www.windhorsetibet.com; B32 Shenzheng Huayuan, Sera Beilu) Top-end trips, strong on trekking and rafting.

Tibetan Guide (%136 2898 0074, 0891-635 1657; www.tibetanguide.com) Contact Mima Dhondup.

Visit Tibet Travel and Tours (%028-8325 7742; www.visittibet.com; Jiaji Lu) Can arrange Nepal add-ons.

TOUR AGENCIES ELSEWHERE IN CHINA

There are several good companies outside the TAR that can arrange tours in Tibet. Many are based in the Tibetan areas of China and operate through local contacts in Lhasa. Depending on your itinerary it can be useful to arrange your tour through one of these outfits; if catching the train from Xīníng, for example, it’s handy to use an agency there to help arrange hard-to-find train tickets and permit pickup.

Access Tibet (www.accesstibettour.com; Room 8110, Lhasa Chaoyang Grand Hotel, 81 Beijing Xilu) Also with an office in Lhasa.

China Yak (%135 5126 4372; www.chinayak.com; 14th fl, TAR Department of Commerce, Jinzhu Donglu) Part of China International Travel Service (CITS), with an office in Lhasa.

Extravagant Yak Foreign-owned company that runs tours in both Tibet and Tibetan areas of surrounding provinces.

Gesartour Strong on tours to Amdo.

Khampa Caravan Overland trips from Yúnnán to Lhasa when possible, and strong on Kham, with an emphasis on sustainable tourism and local communities. Contact Dakpa.

Leo Hostel (广聚园宾馆; Guǎngjùyuán Bīnguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6303 1595, 010 6303 3318; www.leohostel.com; 52 Dazhalan Xijie; 大栅栏西街 52号 dm ¥50-90, r ¥300-380; aiW; bLine 2 to Qianmen, exit B or C) Popular backpacker hostel that books tours through an agency in Tibet.

Mix Hostel Books standard tours and can help find other backpackers to share the cost.

Snow Lion Tours Contact Wangden Tsering.

Tibetan Connections This friendly tour company focuses on remoter parts of Amdo and Kham but can arrange trips into Tibet. Prices may be a little higher than those of local travel agencies, but staff members speak English and are good to deal with.

Tibetan Trekking Contact Gao Liqiang for treks and 4WD trips, especially in Tibetan areas of western Sìchuān.

Wild China ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010-6465 6602; www.wildchina.com; Room 803, Oriental Place, 9 Dongfang Donglu, North Dongsanhuan Rd; 东三环北路东方东路9号东方国际大厦803室 h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; bLine 10 to Liangmaqiao, exit B) Professionally run and top-end private trips.

Windhorse Tour Chinese agency, not connected to Wind Horse Adventure in Lhasa. Contact Helen.

Lhasa ལྷ་ས་ 拉萨

%0891 / Elev 3650m / Pop 257,000

The centre of the Tibetan Buddhist world for over a millennium, Lhasa (ལྷ་ས་; 拉萨; Lāsà; literally the 'Place of the Gods') remains largely a city of wonders. Your first view of the red and white Potala Palace soaring above the Holy City raises goosebumps and the charming whitewashed old Tibetan quarter continues to preserve the essence of traditional Tibetan life. It is here in the Jokhang, an other-worldly mix of flickering butter lamps, wafting incense and prostrating pilgrims, and the encircling Barkhor pilgrim circuit, that most visitors first fall in love with Tibet.

These days the booming boulevards of the modern Chinese city threaten to overwhelm the winding alleyways and backstreet temples of the Tibetan old town, but it is in the latter that you should focus your time. If possible, budget a week to acclimatise, see the sights and roam the fascinating back streets before heading off on a grand overland adventure.

Lhasa

1Top Sights

1Chagpo Ri Rock CarvingsB2

1Sights

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Potala KoraC2

5Eating

Seyzhong Nongze Bösey RestaurantD1

6Drinking & Nightlife

6Dzongyab Lukhang Park Teahouse EastC1

8Information

7China PostC2

8Nepalese Consulate-GeneralA2

9Norbulingka Ticket OfficeA2

10Tibet Tourism BureauB2

11Tibet Wind Horse AdventureC1

Transport

12Air ChinaB1

13Airport BusesC2

China SouthernC2

City Train Ticket OfficeC2

Civil Aviation Authority of China OfficeC2

14Sichuan AirlinesC2

15Tibet AirlinesA2

16Western Bus StationA2

1Sights

oPotala PalacePALACE

(པོ་ཏ་ལ་; 布达拉宫; Bùdálā Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; May-Oct ¥200, Nov-Apr ¥100; h9.30am-3pm Nov-Apr, 9am-3.30pm May-Oct, interior chapels close 4.30pm)

The magnificent Potala Palace, once the seat of the Tibetan government and the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas, is Lhasa's cardinal landmark. Your first sight of its towering, fortress-like walls is a moment you'll remember for years. An architectural wonder even by modern standards, the palace rises 13 storeys from 130m-high Marpo Ri (Red Hill) and contains more than 1000 rooms. Pilgrims and tourists alike shuffle open-mouthed through the three storeys, past the dozens of magnificent chapels, golden stupas and prayer halls.

The first recorded use of the site was in the 7th century AD, when King Songtsen Gampo built a palace here. Construction of the present structure began during the reign of the fifth Dalai Lama in 1645 and took divisions of labourers and artisans more than 50 years to complete. It is impressive enough to have caused Chinese premier Zhou Enlai to send his own troops to protect it from the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution.

The layout of the Potala Palace includes the rooftop White Palace ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (the eastern part of the building), used for the living quarters of the Dalai Lama, and the central Red Palace ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), used for religious functions. The most stunning chapels of the Red Palace house the jewel-bedecked golden chörten (Tibetan stupa) tombs of several previous Dalai Lamas. The apartments of the 13th and 14th Dalai Lamas, in the White Palace, offer a more personal insight into palace life.

Tickets for the Potala are limited and your guide will need to book a time slot several days in advance. Arrive at the palace an hour or so before your allotted time. After a security check (no water or lighters allowed), follow the other visitors to the stairs up into the palace. Halfway up you'll pass the ticket booth, where you'll buy your ticket. Note that if you arrive later than the time on your voucher (or if you forget your voucher) you can be refused a ticket. Photography isn't allowed inside the chapels.

oJokhang TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(ཇོ་ཁང༌, 大昭寺, Dàzhāo Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult ¥85; h8.30-6.30pm, most chapels closed after noon)

The 1300-year-old Jokhang Temple is the spiritual heart of Tibet: the continuous waves of awestruck pilgrims prostrating themselves outside are a testament to its timeless allure. The central golden Buddha image here is the most revered in all of Tibet.

The Jokhang was originally built to house an image of Buddha brought to Tibet by King Songtsen Gampo's Nepalese wife. However, another image, the Jowa Sakyamuni, was later moved here by the king's other wife (the Chinese Princess Wencheng), and it is this image that gives the Jokhang both its name and its spiritual potency: Jokhang means 'chapel of the Jowo'.

The two-storeyed Jokhang is best visited in the morning, though the crowds of yak-butter-spooning pilgrims can be thick. Access is possible in the afternoon through a side entrance, but only the ground-floor chapels can be viewed (and then only through a grille) and there are no pilgrims.

oBarkhor CircuitPILGRIMAGE

(བར་འཁོར་, 八廓, Bākuò MAP GOOGLE MAP )F

It's impossible not to be swept up in the wondrous tide of humanity that is the Barkhor, a kora (pilgrim circuit) that winds clockwise around the periphery of the Jokhang Temple. You'll swear it possesses some spiritual centrifugal force, as every time you approach within 50m, you somehow get sucked right in and gladly wind up making the whole circuit again! It's the place to start exploring Lhasa and the last spot you'll want to see before you bid the city farewell.

As you follow the flow of pilgrims past sellers of religious photos, felt cowboy hats and electric blenders (for yak-butter tea), you’ll soon see a small building on the right, set off from the main path. This is the charming Mani Lhakhang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a small chapel that houses a huge prayer wheel set almost continuously in motion. To the right of the building is the grandiose entrance of the former city jail and dungeons, known as the Nangtse Shar.

If you head south from here, after about 10m you will see the entrance to the Jampa Lhakhang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (also known as Jamkhang or Water Blessing Temple) on the right. The ground floor of this small temple has a huge two-storey statue of Miwang Jampa, the Future Buddha, flanked by rows of various protector gods and the meditation cave of the chapel’s founder. Join the queue of pilgrims shuffling up to the upper floor to be blessed with a sprinkling of holy water and the touch of a holy dorje (thunderbolt).

Continue down the alley following the prayer wheels, then pass through a doorway into the old Meru Nyingba Monastery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). This small but active monastery is a real delight and is invariably crowded with Tibetans thumbing prayer beads or lazily swinging prayer wheels and chanting under their breath. The chapel itself is administered by Nechung Monastery, which accounts for the many images of the Nechung oracle inside. The building, like the adjoining Jokhang, dates back to the 7th century, though most of what you see today is recently constructed.

On the western side of the courtyard, up some narrow stairs, is the small Sakyapa-school Gongkar Chöde chapel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Below is the Zhambhala Lhakhang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), with a central image of Marmedze (Dipamkara), the Past Buddha, and a small inner kora path. Both are dark, moody places that resonate with the sounds of Tantric drumming. From here you can return north or head east to join up with the Barkhor circuit.

The eastern side of the circuit has more shops and even a couple of small department stores that specialise in turquoise. In the southeastern corner is a wall shrine and a darchen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (prayer pole), which mark the spot where Tsongkhapa planted his walking stick in 1409.

On the southern side of the circuit, look out for the Gendun Choephel Memorial Hall (根敦群培纪念馆, Gēndūn Qúnpéi Jìniànguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gdqpzhx.com; h9.30am-6.30pm), a dull museum on a particularly fascinating character. Choephel (1903–51) was a monk, poet, translator, scientist, travel writer, painter, linguist, medic, sexologist, scholar of Sanskrit and all-round nonconformist. The museum suffers from a dogmatic note in its commentary; you may find your eyes glazing over when text expounds on the 'caesaropapist feudal serf system'. This building, the Garushag, was Choephel's last residence and the place in which he died.

The empty southern square of the Jokhang used to host annual teachings by the Dalai Lama during the Mönlam festival. The circuit finally swings north by a police station back to Barkhor Sq.

Barkhor Area

1Top Sights

1Jokhang TempleB2

1Sights

2Barkhor SquareB2

3DarchenC3

4Gendun Choephel Memorial HallB2

Gongkar Chöde ChapelB2

5Jampa LhakhangB2

6Mani LhakhangB2

Meru Nyingba MonasteryB2

7Zhambhala LhakhangB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Barkhor CircuitB2

4Sleeping

9Banak SholD1

10Bike HostelB1

11Dōngcuò International Youth HostelD1

12House of ShambhalaC1

13Kyichu HotelA1

14Shambhala PalaceD2

15Shangbala HotelA2

16Tashi Choeta Tibetan Folk HotelB1

17Trichang Labrang HotelB3

18Yak HotelB1

5Eating

19Father Vegetarian RestaurantB1

20Lhasa KitchenA2

Lhasa Namaste RestaurantB3

21Snowland RestaurantB2

22Tibetan Family KitchenB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

23DunyaB1

Summit CaféA2

7Shopping

24DropenlingD3

25Outlook Outdoor EquipmentC1

8Information

26Shigatse TravelsB1

27Tibet Highland ToursB2

28Tibet Roof of World International TravelA1

29Tibet Songtsan International Travel CompanyB2

oChagpo Ri Rock CarvingsHISTORIC SITE

(药王山; Yàowáng Shān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Deji Zhonglu; admission ¥10; hdawn-dusk)

This hidden corner of Lhasa features more than 5000 painted rock carvings that were created on the back side of Chagpo Ri over the course of a millennium. Throughout the day, pilgrims perform full-body prostrations in front of the images, while stone carvers at the far end of the courtyard contribute to a large chörten built entirely of the carvers’ mani stones. The best way to visit the area is as part of the Lingkhor pilgrim route.

Barkhor SquareSQUARE

(八角广场, Bājiǎo Guǎngchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP )

For your first visit to the Barkhor, enter from Barkhor Sq, a large plaza that was cleared in 1985. The square has been a focus for violent political protest on several occasions, notably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was shot in the shoulder) and most recently in 2008. The square is now bordered by metal detectors, riot-squad vehicles, fire-extinguisher teams (to prevent self-immolations) and rooftop surveillance. Despite the stream of selfie-taking tourists, the atmosphere is one of occupation or siege.

Tibet MuseumMUSEUM

(འགྲེམས་སྟོན་ཁང་, 西藏博物馆, Xīzàng Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Minzu Nanlu; h9.30am‑5.30pm Tue-Sun)F

This museum has some interesting exhibits and heavy Communist Party propaganda. Starting with the prehistory of Tibet, the multiple halls cover everything from weapons and musical instruments to folk handicrafts and fine ancient thangkas (Tibetan sacred art). A useful handheld audio self-touring device (¥10) is available if you bring your passport as a deposit.

DAILY COSTS

Budget: Less than US$75

ARoom without bathroom: US$8–12

AMeal in a local restaurant: US$5

AMonastery entry fee: US$5–15

Midrange: US$75–150

ADouble room with bathroom: US$30–60

AShort taxi ride: US$1.50

AGuide per day: US$40

Top End: More than US$150

ABoutique or four-star hotel: US$90–150

AMain course in a top restaurant: US$8–10

CCourses

Higher Ground Treks & ToursTOUR

(%0891-686 5352; higherground_treks_tours@yahoo.com; 75 Beijing Zhonglu)

The head of this trekking agency, Karma Khampa, was once a manager at the long-standing Tibet International Sports Travel.

zFestivals & Events

Losar FestivalRELIGIOUS

(hFeb)

New Year celebrations take place in the first week of the first lunar month (February), with performances of Tibetan opera, prayer ceremonies at the Jokhang and Nechung Monastery, and the streets thronged with Tibetans dressed in their finest.

Saga DawaRELIGIOUS

(hMay or Jun)

The 15th day (full moon) of the fourth lunar month (May/June) sees huge numbers of pilgrims walking and prostrating along the Lingkhor and Barkhor pilgrim circuits. Follow the locals’ cue and change ¥10 into a fat wad of one-máo notes to hand out as alms during the walk.

Drepung FestivalRELIGIOUS

(hJul)

The 30th day of the sixth lunar month (July) is celebrated with the hanging at dawn of a huge thangka at Drepung Monastery. Lamas and monks perform opera in the main courtyard.

Shötun FestivalRELIGIOUS

(hAug)

The first week of the seventh lunar month (August) sees the unveiling of a giant thangka at Drepung Monastery; festivities then move down to Sera and to the Norbulingka for performances of lhamo (Tibetan opera) and some epic picnics.

Tsongkhapa FestivalRELIGIOUS

(hDec)

Much respect is shown to Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelugpa order, on the anniversary of his death on the 25th day of the 10th lunar month (December). Check for processions and monk dances at the monasteries at Ganden, Sera and Drepung.

LHASA IN...

TWO DAYS

On arrival in Lhasa you need at least two days to adjust to the altitude; you can expect to be tired and headachey most of the time. We recommend adding an extra day and taking the first day very easy.

Start at Barkhor Square, finding your legs on a relaxed stroll around the Barkhor circuit before visiting the Jokhang. Grab lunch at nearby Snowland Restaurant or Lhasa Kitchen. In the afternoon head to Sera Monastery to catch the monks debating. If your headache’s gone, round off the day with a cold Lhasa Beer at Dunya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 100 Beijing Donglu; beer ¥15; h3-11pm) or on the roof of Shambhala Palace.

On day two visit the Potala Palace at your allotted time and then spend the afternoon losing yourself in the fascinating old town.

FOUR DAYS

With four days you could leave the Potala until day three, and add on a stroll around the Potala kora ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), grabbing some sweet te a in a teahouse en route. On day four leave the city on a day trip out to Ganden Monastery, visiting the hermitage caves of Drak Yerpa (བྲག་ཡར་པ་; 扎叶巴寺; Zhā Yèbā Sì admission ¥30) on the way back. Try to budget some time for handicraft shopping at Dropenling.

4Sleeping

The Tibetan eastern end of town is easily the most interesting place to be based, with accommodation options in all budgets. There are dozens of shiny, characterless Chinese-style hotels scattered around other parts of town. You might find yourself in one of these if you arrive on a tour or book a hotel online.

Note that most of the budget places don’t accept reservations.

Banak SholHOTEL$

(八郎学宾馆, Bālángxué Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-632 3829; 8 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥50, d/tr without bathroom ¥100/150, d with bathroom ¥150-160; W)

It's a mixed picture at this backpacker stalwart. The newest triple rooms without bathroom are spacious, fresh and carpeted, and the shared shower blocks are sparkling. The recently renovated Chinese-style standard rooms with bathroom are normally the cheapest such options in town. Avoid the older roadside doubles and singles, though, as these are still small, noisy and overpriced.

Bike HostelHOSTEL$

(风马飞扬旅舍, Fēngmǎ Fēiyáng Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-679 0250; www.tibetbike.com; dm ¥33-50, d without/with bathroom ¥120/180; W)

This tidy courtyard hostel (north of Beijing Donglu behind the Yak Hotel) is a decent budget option, especially if you speak some Chinese and want to connect with the many overland Chinese cyclists here. The en-suite rooms are bright, modern and good value, and the dorms come with shared hot showers and free washing-machine access.

Dōngcuò International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(东措国际青年旅馆, Dōngcuò Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-627 3388; yhalhasa@hotmail.com; 10 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥30-55, s/d/tr with bathroom ¥120/140/180, r without bathroom ¥80-120; iW)

Lhasa's best Chinese-run hostel attracts mainly Chinese backpackers, though a few foreign travellers find their way here. Rooms are smallish but well maintained, with wooden floors and crisp white sheets, but the graffiti-covered walls beloved by Chinese backpackers add to the slightly grim, institutional feel. Bike rental (¥30) and a laundry service are bonuses. Prices rise in July and August.

oYak HotelHOTEL$$

(亚宾馆, Yà Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-630 0195; 100 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥50, d ¥240-650, r VIP ¥880; aiW)

The ever-popular Yak has matured in recent years from backpacker hang-out to tour-group favourite, eschewing the cramped dorm rooms (there are three left) for a range of comfortable en-suite rooms. Reservations are recommended through your agency (online booking websites are currently unreliable). The 5th-floor breakfast bar offers great views of the Potala. Walk-in discounts of 40% are standard.

Tashi Choeta Tibetan Folk HotelHOTEL$$

(扎西曲塔风情酒店, Zhāxī Qūtǎ Fēngqíng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 8998 5865; aiW)

This new hotel (opened in 2016) has a great location on the edge of the old town, with 58 comfortable Tibetan-style rooms ranged around a sunny atrium. The superior rooms are more spacious; all are set around a central courtyard restaurant. Prices were not fixed at the time of research.

oKyichu HotelHOTEL$$$

(吉曲饭店, Jíqǔ Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 1541; www.lhasakyichuhotel.com; 18 Beijing Donglu; r standard/deluxe from ¥480/580; aiW)

The renovated Kyichu is a friendly and well-run choice that’s very popular with repeat travellers to Tibet. Rooms are comfortable and pleasant, with wooden floors, underfloor heating, Tibetan carpets and private bathrooms, but the real selling points are the location, the excellent service and – that rarest of Lhasa commodities – a peaceful garden courtyard (with espresso coffee). Reservations recommended.

oShambhala PalaceBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(香巴拉宫, Xiāngbālā Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-630 7779; www.shambhalaserai.com; 16 Taibeng Gang; r incl breakfast ¥480-720; hclosed mid-Jan–end Apr; iW)

This quiet 17-room hotel is hidden deep in the old town, offering stylish rooms, a spacious rooftop and good service. Avoid the smallest rooms, though. Manager Nyima Tashi is particularly helpful. Low-season discounts of 20% are available.

oHouse of ShambhalaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(桌玛拉宫, Zhuōmǎlā Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-632 6533; www.shambhalaserai.com; 7 Jiri Erxiang, 吉日二巷7号 d incl breakfast ¥490-980; hclosed mid-Jan–end Apr; i)

Hidden in the old town in a historic Tibetan building, the romantic, boutique-style Shambhala mixes the neighbourhood's earthy charm with buckets of style and a great rooftop lounge, making it perfect for couples who prefer atmosphere over mod cons. The 13 rooms, decorated in natural wood and slate with antique Tibetan furniture, vary only in size.

PRICE RANGES

EATING

The following price ranges refer to a standard dish in Chinese restaurants or a main course in Western restaurants. There are no additional taxes, though some higher-end places may add a service charge.

$ less than ¥30

$$ ¥30–80

$$$ more than ¥80

SLEEPING

The following price ranges refer to a standard double room before discounts. Unless otherwise stated, breakfast is not included.

$ less than ¥200

$$ ¥200–400

$$$ more than ¥400

5Eating

The best Tibetan, Nepali and Western restaurants are in the Tibetan quarter around Barkhor Sq. Almost all places offer decent breakfasts, perhaps the best being at Lhasa Kitchen (拉萨厨房, Lāsà Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Danjielin Lu; mains ¥20-30, Nepali sets ¥35; h9am-11pm) and Snowland. Most eateries serve lunch and dinner, but you will struggle to find a meal after about 10pm. For the flashiest Chinese restaurants you’ll have to head to the western districts.

Father Vegetarian RestaurantTIBETAN$

(父亲素食厨房, Fùqīn Sùshí Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains ¥17-40; h11am-9.30pm; v)

This hole-in-the wall ('Yebche Gartse Suertob' in Tibetan) is a good place to get a cheap and authentic vegetarian lunch. There's no English menu, so consider going with your Tibetan guide. The combo dishes with rice are good value at ¥10 and the Tibetan-style fried mushrooms (臧式炒蘑菇, zāngshì chǎomógu) and dry hotpot (干锅, gànguō) dishes are particularly recommended.

Tibetan Family KitchenTIBETAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %138 8901 5053; dishes ¥15-40; h12:30-9pm; W)

For a taste of Tibetan homemade recipes such as yak meat in tomato sauce, put in an order with chef Namdon an hour or two in advance at this family-run kitchen. Better still, take the two-hour cooking class (¥100 per person, including dinner), during which you can learn to make authentic momos (dumplings) and Amdo-style noodles.

Seyzhong Nongze Bösey RestaurantTIBETAN$

(金臧特宝藏餐, Jīnzāng Tèbǎo Zāngcaān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ramoche Lam; dishes ¥15-35)

Super-convenient if you’re visiting the next-door Ramoche Temple (ར་མོ་ཆེ་, 小昭寺; Xiǎozhāo Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20; h7.30am-8pm), this pleasant upstairs Amdo Tibetan restaurant offers great views over the street below from the low Tibetan-style tables. Try the set meal of shemdre (meat, rice and curried potatoes) for ¥25 or choose something more adventurous from the photo menu, such as the sizzling beef and peppers or the tiger-skin chillies (虎皮青椒; hǔpíqīngjiāo).

oLhasa Namaste RestaurantINTERNATIONAL, NEPALI$$

(拉萨娜玛瑟德餐厅, Lāsà Nàmǎsèdé Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 11 Lugu Wu Xiang; mains ¥25-50; h11am-9:30pm)

It's worth battling the labyrinthine old-town backstreets to get to this Nepali-run restaurant, with a charming location in the garden courtyard of the Trichang Labrang Hotel (志江拉让宾馆, Chìjiāng Lāràng Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-630 9555; 11 Lugu Wu Xiang; r ¥340, ste ¥968; aiW). The rewards are some of Lhasa's tastiest curries, as well as sizzlers, yak burgers and cakes. Arrive before 6pm to get a table and leave a popcorn trail to find your way back again.

oSnowland RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$

(雪域餐厅, Xuěyù Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 7323; 8 Danjielin Lu; dishes ¥25-70; h10am-10pm)

This old-timer has a new location but is still an extremely popular place that serves a mix of excellent Continental and Nepali food in very civilised surroundings. The Indian dishes are particularly good, especially the tasty chicken butter masala (¥55) and giant naan breads. The cakes are the best in town; give the lemon pie our fond regards.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oSummit CaféCAFE

(顶峰咖啡店, Dǐngfēng Kāfēidiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thetibetsummitcafe.com; 1 Danjielin Lu; coffee ¥22-30, mains ¥50-80; h8:30am-9:30pm; W)

With authentic espresso coffee and smoothies, free wi-fi and melt-in-your-mouth cheesecakes, plus salads, paninis, pizza and American-style breakfast waffles and pancakes, this coffeehouse is mocha-flavoured nirvana. It’s in the courtyard of the Shangbala Hotel (香巴拉酒店, Xiāngbālā Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-632 3888; 1 Danjielin Lu; aW), a stone’s throw from the Jokhang. There are other, less useful branches around town.

Dzongyab Lukhang Park Teahouse EastTEAHOUSE

(龙王潭风经情茶园; Lóngwángtán Fēngqíng Cháyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tea ¥4)

One of two good teahouse restaurants in pleasant Dzongyab Lukhang Park. Grab a thermos of sweet tea or try a cheap lunch of shemdre (meat and curried potatoes; mains ¥15 to ¥20).

7Shopping

oDropenlingARTS & CRAFTS

(桌番林, Zhuōfānlín MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 0558; www.tibetcraft.com; 11 Chaktsalgang Lam; h10am-8pm)S

This impressive nonprofit enterprise aims to bolster traditional Tibetan handicrafts in the face of rising Chinese and Nepali imports. Products are unique and of high quality, and they are made using traditional techniques (natural dyes, wool not acrylic etc) updated with contemporary designs. Ask about the 90-minute artisan walking tour of Lhasa’s old town (¥30 per person).

Outlook Outdoor EquipmentSPORTS & OUTDOORS

(边塞远景户外装备, Biànsāi Yuǎnjǐng Hùwài Zhuāngbèi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 8990; 11 Beijing Donglu)

This trekking shop has a dwindling selection of Western-quality sleeping bags (¥350 to ¥600), Gore-Tex jackets, and tents, plus hard-to-find imported knick-knacks such as altimeters, trekking socks and Primus cook sets. A limited amount of gear is also available for rent.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

If you fly straight into Lhasa, remember to take things easy for your first day or two: it’s not uncommon to feel breathless, suffer from headaches and sleep poorly because of the altitude. Don’t attempt the steps up to the Potala for the first few days and drink lots of fluids.

Chinese armed-police posts and riot-squad teams currently occupy every street corner in the old town. Most Tibetans ignore them, but you should take care not to photograph any military posts or armed patrols.

Emergency Numbers

Ambulance	120
Fire	119
Police	11

Internet Access

Most public internet cafes won't accept foreigners without a local identity card. Almost all hotels and some cafes, including the Summit Café, offer free wi-fi to patrons.

Medical Services

120 Emergency CentreHOSPITAL

(急救中心, Jíjiù Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 2462; 16 Linkuo Beilu)

Part of People’s Hospital. Consultations cost around ¥150.

Tibet Military HospitalHOSPITAL

(西藏军区总医院, Xīzàng Jūnqū Zǒngyīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-625 3120; Niangre Beilu)

Travellers who have received medical attention confirm that this place is the best option (if you have an option).

Money

Bank of China (Main Office) (中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Linkuo Xilu; h9am-1pm & 3:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-4pm Sat & Sun) West of the Potala, this is the only place to arrange a credit-card advance (3% commission) or a bank transfer. The ATMs outside the building are open 24 hours.

Bank of China (Branch) (中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Beijing Donglu; h24hr) The most conveniently located branch is fully automated, with a currency-exchange machine that's converts cash currencies much more quickly than the main bank branch. Bring your cleanest notes, as the machine can be fussy. ATMs dispense cash 24 hours a day. It’s just west of the Banak Shol Hotel.

Bank of China (Branch) ( GOOGLE MAP ; Duosenge Lu; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-4pm Sat & Sun) If you actually need to talk to a human to change money, this bank branch is the closest to the Tibetan old town.

Post

China Post (中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 33 Beijing Donglu; h9am-6pm) Counter number three sells stamps and packaging for parcels. Express Mail Service (EMS) is also here. Leave parcels unsealed until you get here, as staff will want to check the contents for customs clearance. Postcards are sold at the counter to the right.

Telephone

China Mobile (中国移动通信, Zhōngguó Yídòng Tōngxìn GOOGLE MAP ; Beijing Donglu; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) This is the best place to get a local SIM card for your mobile phone. Choose from data, calls or a mixture of both. It's a fairly complicated procedure and you'll likely need a local ID card, so go with your guide. Expect to pay around ¥100 for a month of data.

Tourist Information

Norbulingka Ticket Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) The place to buy your tickets for the Norbulingka.

Tibet Tourism BureauTOURIST INFORMATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-683 4315; http://en.xzta.gov.cn; 3 Linkuo Xilu, Lhasa)

This government organisation issues the permits needed by foreigners to travel to Tibet. There's little reason to visit the office, though the website has some useful tourist information.

Visas

Lhasa City PSB (PSB, 拉萨市公安局, Lāsà Shì Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-624 8154; 17 Linkuo Beilu; h9am-12:30pm & 3:30-6pm Mon-Fri) Visa extensions of up to a week are very rarely given; if they are they will only be granted a day or two before your visa expires and only through your tour agency.

Nepalese Consulate-General (尼泊尔领事馆, Níbó’ěr Lǐngshìguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-681 5744; www.nepalembassy.org.cn; 13 Luobulingka Beilu; h10am-noon Mon-Fri) Issues visas in 24 hours. The current fee for a 15-/30-/90-day visa is ¥175/280/700. Bring a visa photo. Chinese tourists have to get their visas here and these are currently free; foreigners will find it easier to obtain visas on the spot at the Nepalese border.

PERMITS

Lhasa is currently the only part of Tibet that doesn’t require you to hire pricey transport. The only time you will be asked for your Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit is when you check into a hotel, which your guide will help you with. No other permits are required for the city or surroundings.

At the time of research you had to visit the main monasteries of Drepung, Sera and Ganden and Jokhang Temple and Potala Palace in the company of your guide, but other parts of the city were fine to explore by yourself.

8Getting There & Away

While there are a number of ways to get to Lhasa, the most popular routes are by air from Chéngdū (in Sìchuān), by train from Xīníng, and overland or by air from Kathmandu.

Air

Flying out of Lhasa is considerably easier than flying in. No permits are necessary – just turn up at the Civil Aviation Authority of China office and buy a ticket. In August and around national holidays, you’d be wise to book your ticket at least a week in advance. At other times you'll generally get a 30% discount off the full fare.

To book a ticket you'll need to complete a form, get a reservation and then pay the cashier (cash only). Sample full fares include ¥1680 to Chéngdū, ¥3260 to Běijīng (only some flights are direct) and ¥1900 to Xīníng.

Air China

China Southern

Sichuan Airlines (四川航空, Sìchuān Hángkōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-6828222; www.scal.com.cn; 41 Beijing Zhonglu)

Tibet Airlines

Bus & Minibus

To & From China

The popularity of the train has pushed the sleeper buses into irrelevancy, especially for foreigners, as they are not allowed to take these services. There are still daily sleeper services to Golmud (20 hours), Xīníng (2½ days) and even Chéngdū (three days and four nights, via Golmud), but most people take the train if they can get tickets.

Around Tibet

At the time of research foreigners were not allowed to take bus services around Tibet and had to arrange their own transport. In case this changes, the following public transport operates.

Buses to popular pilgrim destinations leave early in the morning from the corner of Duosenge and Yuthok roads. Buses leave between 6:30am and 7:30am for Ganden Monastery (¥50), Tsurphu Monastery (¥60) and Drak Yerpa (¥30). Buses depart when full, so expect lots of hanging around.

At the time of research the main Western Bus Station wasn’t selling bus tickets to foreigners. In case this changes, there are hourly services to Shigatse, Tsetang and Nagchu (Nǎqū), plus a daily service to Gyantse and long-distance services to Chamdo, Markham, Zhōngdiān, Golmud and Xīníng. Private cars also run from here for about double the cheapest bus fare per seat.

The Eastern Bus Station has frequent minibuses to Lhundrub (Línzhōu) and Medro Gongkar (Mòzhú Gōngkǎ), from outside the main station, plus daily buses to Drigung Til and Reting Monastery.

Lhasa’s Northern Bus Station has sleeper buses to Ali (60 hours) in western Tibet, as well as buses to Zhangmu, Yadong, Markham, Zhōngdiān and Shigatse.

Train

It’s possible to ride the rails up onto the Tibetan plateau to Lhasa, and even beyond to Shigatse. There are daily trains to/from Běijīng, Xī’ān, Shànghǎi and Guǎngzhōu and four daily to/from Xī’níng or Lánzhōu, and every other day to/from Chéngdū and Chóngqìng. Most trains from Lhasa depart between 8am and 2pm, while all trains to Lhasa arrive in the evening. The train station is 4km southwest of town.

A new daily train service to Shigatse started in late 2014. Fares for the three-hour trip cost around ¥41 for a hard seat or ¥120/176 for a hard/soft sleeper. Train Z8801 departs Lhasa at 8.30am, returning from Shigatse at 6.40pm.Train Z8803 departs Lhasa at 3.20pm, returning from Shigatse at 12.05pm. If your tour agency can secure tickets you may be able to add Shigatse onto a Lhasa trip without having to fork out for pricey vehicle hire.

You can buy train tickets up to two months in advance at the Lhasa train station ticket office or the more centrally located city ticket office (火车票代售处, Huǒchēpiào Dàishòuchù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beijing Donglu; commission ¥5; h8am-5:30pm). You'll need your passport. Note that it’s generally much easier to get tickets from Lhasa than to Lhasa.

A taxi to/from the train station costs around ¥30.

8Getting Around

For those travellers based in the Tibetan quarter of Lhasa, most of the major inner-city sights are within fairly easy walking distance. For sights such as the Norbulingka over in the west of town, it’s better to jump in a taxi.

To & From the Airport

Modern Gongkar airport is 66km from Lhasa, via the new expressway and Gālá Shān tunnel.

Airport buses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-682 7727; Niangre Beilu) leave up to 10 times a day (¥30, 1¼ hours) between 7:30am and 1pm from beside the CAAC building and are timed to meet flights. From the airport, buses wait for flights outside the terminal building. Some agencies will let their tourists travel by airport bus as long as they buy a return ticket for the guide. Buy tickets on the bus.

A taxi to the airport costs ¥200.

Bicycle

Bicycles are a reasonably good way to get around Lhasa once you have acclimatised to the altitude. Traffic has become surprisingly busy in recent years, so take care.

Bike Hostel rents mountain bikes for ¥25 per day with a ¥600 deposit and is a meeting place for long-distance Chinese cyclists.

Bicycle theft is a problem in Lhasa, so be sure to park your bike in designated areas. A lock and chain are essential.

Bus

Buses (¥1) are frequent on Beijing Donglu, and if you need to get up to western Lhasa this is the cheapest way to do it. That said, route maps are in Chinese only, so if you aren't with your guide it's easiest to just take an inexpensive taxi.

Pedicab

There is no shortage of pedicabs plying the streets of Lhasa, but they require endless haggling and are only really useful for short trips (around ¥5). At least most are Tibetan-owned. Always fix the price before getting in.

Public Transport

At the time of research, foreigners were not allowed to travel on public transport out of Lhasa, with the possible exception of buses to the airport.

Taxi

Taxis charge a standard fare of ¥10 for the first 3km (then ¥2 per subsequent kilometre), resulting in a ¥10 ride within the city centre.

THE WORLD’S HIGHEST TRAIN RIDE

There’s no doubt the Qīnghǎi–Tibet train line is an engineering marvel. Topping out at 5072m, it is the world’s highest railway, snatching the title from a Peruvian line. The statistics speak for themselves: 86% of the line is above 4000m, and half the track lies on permafrost, requiring a cooling system of pipes driven into the ground to keep it frozen year-round to avoid a rail-buckling summer thaw. Construction of the line involved building 160km of bridges and elevated track, seven tunnels (including the world’s highest) and 24 hyperbaric chambers, the latter to treat altitude-sick workers.

Aside from environmental concerns, Tibetans are deeply worried about the cultural and political impact of the train. The trains unload thousands of Chinese tourists and immigrants into Lhasa every day, and connecting China’s rail network to the only province in China lacking a rail link has forged Tibet and China together. A similar thing happened with the 1999 railway line to Kashgar in Xīnjiāng.

The authorities stress the economic benefits of the line: highly subsidised, it has decreased transport costs for imports by up to 75%. But Tibetans remain economically marginalised. More than 90% of the 100,000 workers employed to build the line came from other provinces and few, if any, Tibetan staff members work on the trains. The US$4.1 billion cost of building the line is greater than the amount Běijīng has spent on hospitals and schools in Tibet over the past 50 years.

As ambitious as the current line is, connecting Lhasa with the rest of China was only the beginning. An extension to Shigatse opened in 2014, and plans are in place to expand the network south to the Nepal border, and east to Tsetang, Nyingtri and Sìchuān province beyond.

Around Lhasa

Drepung Monastery འབྲས་སྤུང་ 哲蚌寺

Drepung MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(འབྲས་སྤུང་, 哲蚌寺, Zhébàng Sì GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥60; h9:30am-5:30pm, smaller chapels close at 3pm)

Along with Sera and Ganden Monasteries, Drepung functioned as one of the three 'pillars of the Tibetan state', and it was purportedly the largest monastery in the world, with around 7000 resident monks at its peak. Drepung means 'rice heap', a reference to the white buildings dotting the hillside. The 1½-hour kora (pilgrim circuit) around the 15th-century monastery, 8km west of Lhasa, is among the highlights of a trip to the city.

The kings of Tsang and the Mongols savaged the place regularly, though, oddly, the Red Guards pretty much left it alone during the Cultural Revolution. With concerted rebuilding, Drepung once again resembles a monastic village and around 600 monks reside here. At lunchtime you can see the novices bringing in buckets of tsampa (roasted-barley flour) and yak-butter tea. In the afternoons you can often see Tibetan-style religious debating (lots of hand slapping and gesticulating). The best way to visit the monastery is to follow the pilgrim groups or the yellow signs.

Nearby Nechung Monastery, a 10-minute walk downhill, was once the home of the Tibetan state oracle and is worth a visit for its blood-curdling murals.

Bus 25 (¥1) runs from Beijing Donglu to the foot of the Drepung hill, from where minivans (¥2) run up to the monastery. Most tourists take a taxi from the Barkhor area for around ¥40. There is a ¥10 to ¥20 charge per chapel for photography.

Monastery Restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; mains ¥7-12; h10am-3pm) near the bus stop serves reviving sweet tea by the glass or thermos (¥7), as well as bowls of shemdre (meat and curried potatoes) and vegetable momos (dumplings).

Ganden Monastery དགའ་ལྡན་ 甘丹寺

Elev 4300m

Just 50km northeast of Lhasa, Ganden Monastery (དགའ་ལྡན་; 甘丹寺; Gāndān Sì GOOGLE MAP ; ¥50; hdawn-dusk) was the first Gelugpa monastery and has been the main seat of this major Buddhist order ever since. If you only have time for one monastery excursion outside Lhasa, Ganden is the best choice. With its stupendous views of the surrounding Kyi-chu Valley and its fascinating kora (pilgrim circuit), Ganden makes for an experience unlike those at the other major Gelugpa monasteries in the Lhasa area.

Ganden means ‘joyous’ in Tibetan and is the name of the Western Paradise (also known as Tushita) that is home to Jampa, the Future Buddha. There is a certain irony in this because, of all the great monasteries of Tibet, Ganden suffered most at the hands of the Red Guards, possibly because of its political influence.

Ganden is also the start of the popular wilderness trek to Samye Monastery.

The Ganden Kora ( GOOGLE MAP ) is simply stunning and should not be missed. There are superb views over the braided Kyi-chu Valley along the way and there are usually large numbers of pilgrims and monks offering prayers, rubbing holy rocks and prostrating themselves along the path. There are two parts to the walk: the high kora and the low kora. The high kora climbs Angkor Ri south of Ganden and then drops down the ridge to join up with the low kora.

4Sleeping & Eating

Tourists are generally not allowed to stay overnight at Ganden, but there is a guesthouse here, so check with your tour agency.

The simple Monastery Guesthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; dm ¥20-45, d without bathroom ¥200) at Ganden was once used by trekkers headed to Samye, but it currently doesn't accept foreigners. If this changes, the better-quality double rooms are above the well-stocked monastery shop just up from the car park.

The monastery restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; dishes ¥10-20) has thugpa (Tibetan noodles) and some fried-vegetable dishes. Head for the nicer upper-storey hall.

8Getting There & Away

Pilgrim buses run to a stop at Ganden in the early morning from a block west of Barkhor Sq, but tourists are currently not allowed to take them. The road from Lhasa follows a new highway east, from which a paved road switchbacks the steep final 12km to the monastery.

On the way back to Lhasa, pilgrims traditionally stop for a visit at Sanga Monastery, set at the foot of the ruined Dagtse Dzong (or Dechen Dzong; dzong means fort).

A 4WD for a day trip to Ganden currently costs around ¥500.

Sera Monastery སེ་ར་དགོན་པ་ 色拉寺

Sera MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(སེ་ར་དགོན་པ་, 色拉寺, Sèlā Sì GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥50; h9am-5pm; g22, 23)

About 5km north of Lhasa, Sera was founded in 1419 by a disciple of Tsongkhapa as one of Lhasa's two great Gelugpa monasteries. About 600 monks are now in residence, down from an original population of around 5000. The half-dozen main colleges feature spectacular prayer halls and chapels. Equally interesting is the monk debating that takes place from 3pm to 5pm in a garden near the assembly hall. Don't miss the fine, hour-long kora (pilgrim circuit) around the exterior of the monastery.

Chapels start to close at 3pm, so it makes sense to see the monastery chapels before heading to the debating.

From Sera Monastery it's possible to take a taxi northwest for a couple of kilometres to little-visited Pabonka Monastery. Built in the 7th century by King Songtsen Gampo, this is one of the most ancient Buddhist sites in the Lhasa region.

The simple Monastery Restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; dishes ¥3-8; h10am-3pm) serves up cheap noodles and thermoses of sweet, milky tea in its back garden.

Sera is only a half-hour bicycle ride from the Barkhor area of Lhasa, or take bus 20 from Beijing Donglu, or bus 25 or minibus 2 from Niangre Lu, to a stop at the monastery. A taxi (¥20) is the easiest option.

Ü དབུས་

Ü (དབུས་) is Tibet’s heartland and has almost all the landscapes you’ll find across the plateau, from sand dunes and meandering rivers to soaring peaks and juniper forests. Due to its proximity to Lhasa, Ü is the first taste of rural Tibet that most visitors experience, and you can get off the beaten track surprisingly quickly here. Fine walking opportunities abound, from day hikes and monastery koras (pilgrim circuits) to overnight treks.

Ü is the traditional power centre of Tibet, and home to its oldest buildings and most historic monasteries. The big sights, such as Samye, are unmissable, but consider also heading to lesser-visited places such as the Drak and Ön Valleys, or to smaller monasteries like Dranang and Gongkar Chöde. Make it to these hidden gems and you’ll feel as though you have Tibet all to yourself.

Yarlung Tsangpo Valley ཡར་ཀླུང་གཙང་པོའི་གཞུང་ 雅鲁流域

The serene waters of the braided Yarlung Tsangpo (ཡར་ཀླུང་གཙང་པོའི་གཞུང་; 雅鲁流域; Yǎlǔ Liúyù) meander through a swathe of land flanked by dramatic sand dunes and rich in Tibetan history. It’s only a couple of hours from Lhasa and the numerous attractions are relatively near one another, allowing you to see the main sights in two or three days. Remote monasteries, royal tombs, ruined stupas, meditation retreats and medieval palaces are only some of the highlights you can visit in a three-day itinerary. With more time you could spend days exploring the various side valleys on foot or by mountain bike.

Samye MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(བསམ་ཡས་དགོན་པ་; 桑耶寺; Sāngyē Sì GOOGLE MAP )

About 170km southeast of Lhasa, on the north bank of the Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra) River is Samye Monastery, the first monastery in Tibet. Founded in 775 by King Trisong Detsen, Samye is famed not just for its pivotal history but for its unique mandala design: the main hall, or Ütse ( GOOGLE MAP ; ¥40; h7.30am-5.30pm), represents Mt Meru, the centre of the universe, while the outer temples represent the oceans, continents, subcontinents and other features of the Buddhist cosmology.

Simple accommodation is available at the Monastery Guesthouse (桑耶寺宾馆, Sāngyésì Bīnguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0893-783 6666; d without bathroom ¥160, d/tr ¥240/300), outside the monastery walls, with comfortable doubles and a hot-water shower. The monastery restaurant serves good momos (dumplings) and Chinese dishes with bags of local atmosphere. The Friendship Snowland Restaurant (雪域同胞旅馆, Xuěyù Tóngbāo Lǚguǎn, Gangjong Pönda Sarkhang GOOGLE MAP ; meals ¥16-50; h8.30am-11pm), outside the east gate, serves better Chinese and Tibetan dishes, banana pancakes and milky tea. Dorm rooms (¥50) with real (not foam) mattresses are available upstairs. There are several other decent accommodation options nearby, including the friendly Tashi Guesthouse (扎西旅馆, Zhāxī Lǚguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %189 8993 7883; dm/r ¥60/120).

If you are heading to Everest Base Camp or the Nepali border, a visit here will only add one day to your itinerary. You may have to detour briefly to the nearby town of Tsetang (泽当; Zédāng) for your guide to pick up a required travel permit.

The Yarlung Tsangpo Valley is easily accessible and most places are within a three-hour drive of Lhasa on good roads. A rail spur line is currently under construction from Lhasa to Tsetang but will take a few years to complete.

Southern Ngari

The tarmacking of the 500km section of road from Saga to Hor Qu is now completed, which means driving times from Lhasa to Mt Kailash have been reduced to as little as three days. It is important that you don't rush, however, but take time to acclimatise.

Saga is the last major town along the southern route and a usual overnight stop. It is at the junction of roads from Lhasa and Nepal.

Even if you're coming from Lhatse, consider adding three days or so to your itinerary and continuing along the Friendship Hwy to visit Everest Base Camp and Tingri and enjoy the stunning lake views of Peiku-tso.

Saga ས་དགའ་; 萨嘎

%0892 / Elev 4610m

The sprawling truck-stop town of Saga (ས་དགའ་; 萨嘎; Sàgá), on the banks of the Yarlung Tsangpo river, is the last town of any size on the southern route and a logical overnight stop on the way to Mt Kailash. It's the only place until Darchen that has reliable electricity. There's little to see in town – most people use the time to wash up, check emails and stock up on supplies.

Saga is a full day's drive from Shigatse or Darchen. Closer destinations include Lhatse (306km) and Paryang (246km).

Tsang གཙང

For most travellers, the former province of Tsang (གཙང) is either the first or last place they experience in Tibet, and the setting for two of Asia's great mountain drives: out to far western Tibet and across the Himalaya to Nepal. The great overland trip across Tibet – from Lhasa along the Friendship Hwy to the Nepali border via Gyantse, Shigatse and Mt Everest Base Camp – goes straight through Tsang, linking most of the highlights of the region on one irresistible route. Along the way are fantastic day walks, several multiday treks, an adventurous detour to the base of Mt Everest and a scattering of ancient Tibetan monasteries and historic towns. Dozens of smaller monasteries just off the highway offer adventurers plenty of scope to get off the beaten track and experience an older TIbet.

8Permits

As with the rest of Tibet, you need permits to visit anywhere in Tsang and for this you will need to travel with an organised tour with a guide and transport. Your guide will most likely need to register and get an alien's travel permit while in Shigatse.

Special trekking permits are needed if you plan to trek in the Everest region beyond Base Camp.Trekking permits for Camp III (also known as Advanced Base Camp or ABC) are issued by the China Tibet Mountain Association. Trekkers will need help from an agency to get the permits.

8Getting There & Around

Public transport runs along the Northern Friendship Hwy to the Nepal border but foreigners are not allowed to take it. The Qīnghǎi–Tibet railway extension from Lhasa to Shigatse opened in 2014 and Shigatse now has its own airport with direct flights to Chéngdū.

Gyantse རྒྱལ་རྩེ་ 江孜

%0892 / Elev 3980m / Pop 15,000

Lying on a historic trade route between India and Tibet, Gyantse (རྒྱལ་རྩེ་; 江孜; Jiāngzī) has long been a crucial link for traders and pilgrims journeying across the Himalayan plateau. It was once considered Tibet’s third city, behind Lhasa and Shigatse, but in recent decades has been eclipsed by fast-growing Chinese-dominated towns like Bāyī and Tsetang. Perhaps that’s a good thing, as Gyantse has managed to hang onto its small-town charm and laid-back atmosphere.

Gyantse’s greatest sight is the Gyantse Kumbum, the largest chörten remaining in Tibet and one of its architectural wonders, but there's plenty more to see. With good hotels and restaurants, Gyantse is the town in Tibet that most warrants an extra day to explore little-visited nearby monasteries or wander the town's charming back streets.

1Sights

oGyantse KumbumBUDDHIST STUPA

(རྒྱན་སྐུ་འབུམ་; 江孜千佛塔; Jiāngzī Qiānfótǎ GOOGLE MAP ; incl with Pelkor Chöde Monastery)

Commissioned by a Gyantse prince in 1427 and sitting inside the Pelkor Chöde complex, the Gyantse Kumbum is the town’s foremost attraction. The 32m-high chörten, with its white layers trimmed with decorative stripes and its crown-like golden dome, is awe-inspiring. But the inside is no less impressive, and in what seems an endless series of tiny chapels you’ll find painting after exquisite painting (kumbum means ‘100,000 images’).

Pelkor Chöde MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(白居寺; Báijū Sì GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥60; h9am-6:30pm, some chapels closed 1-3pm)

The high red-walled compound in the far north of town houses Pelkor Chöde Monastery, founded in 1418. The main assembly hall is the main attraction but there are several other chapels to see. There’s a small but visible population of 80 monks and a steady stream of prostrating, praying, donation-offering pilgrims doing the rounds almost any time of the day.

Gyantse DzongFORT

(江孜宗; Jiāngzī Zōng GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-817 2116; admission ¥30; h9:30am-6:30pm)

The main reason to make the 20-minute climb to the top of the Gyantse Dzong is for the fabulous views of the Pelkor Chöde Monastery and Gyantse's whitewashed old town below. Most visitors drive up halfway to the top but there is also footpath access via a gate just north of the main roundabout in town.

zFestivals & Events

Dhama FestivalCULTURAL

If you happen to be in Tibet in mid-July, you can catch Gyantse's three-day Dhama Festival, featuring 19 local villages trying to outdo each other in horse races, yak races, wrestling and traditional dances. Accommodation is tight in Gyantse during the festival, but you could easily commute from Shigatse, 90 minutes away.

4Sleeping & Eating

Gyantse is a popular stop for tours and has a good range of accommodation and food along north–south Yingxiong Nanlu.

oYeti HotelHOTEL$$

(雅迪花园酒店; Yǎdí Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-817 5555; www.yetihoteltibet.com; 11 Weiguo Lu; d incl breakfast ¥328; aiW)

The revamped three-star Yeti is easily the best midrange option in Gyantse, offering 24-hour hot water, clean carpeted rooms, quality mattresses and reliable wi-fi, so make sure you reserve in advance. The cafe and excellent lobby restaurant serve everything from yak steak to pizza, alongside one of Tibet's best buffet breakfasts.

Jiànzàng HotelHOTEL$$

(建藏饭店; Jiànzàng Fàndiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-817 3720; jianzanghotel@yahoo.com.cn; 14 Yingxiong Nanlu; 英雄南路14号 dm ¥60, d with breakfast ¥260; W)

The Jiànzàng, with English-speaking staff, offers decent rooms in a quiet new courtyard block with ensuite rooms and 24-hour hot water. The budget triples and quads come with an ensuite squat toilet and hot showers down the hall. The 2nd-floor Tibetan-style restaurant is a cosy option for breakfast or a thermos of tea.

Tashi RestaurantNEPALI, INTERNATIONAL$$

(扎西餐厅; Zhāxī Cāntīng GOOGLE MAP ; Yingxiong Nanlu; mains ¥30-50; h7:30am-11pm; v)

This Nepali-run place (a branch of Tashi in Shigatse) whips up tasty and filling curries, pizza and yak sizzlers. It also has the best range of Western breakfasts. The decor is Tibetan but the Indian movies and Nepali music give it a head-waggling subcontinental vibe.

8Information

Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国农业银行; Zhōngguó Nóngyè Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Weiguo Lu; h9:30am-12:30pm & 3:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun)

At the time of research, the ATM here was not accepting foreign cards or changing cash, so you'll have to go to Shigatse to access your money.

8Getting There & Around

Minibuses and taxis shuttle the 90km between Gyantse and Shigatse but don't take foreigners. The drive to Shigatse takes around 90 minutes, but allow half a day with stops en route.

All of Gyantse’s sights can be reached comfortably on foot, but there are rickshaws and even taxis if you need them. Negotiate all prices before you head out.

Shigatse གཞི་ཀ་རྩེ་ 日喀则

%0892 / Elev 3840m / Pop 80,000

Tibet’s second-largest town and the traditional capital of Tsang province, Shigatse (གཞི་ཀ་རྩེ་; 日喀则; Rìkāzé) is a modern, sprawling city, with wide boulevards humming with traffic (even in the pedestrian-only street). As you drive in across the plains, the site of the Potala-lookalike Shigatse Dzong, high on a hilltop overlooking the town, will probably fire your imagination, but the fort is empty and most of what you see dates from a 2007 reconstruction. It is the Tashilhunpo Monastery, to the west of town, that is the real draw. Since the Mongol sponsorship of the Gelugpa order, Shigatse has been the seat of the Panchen Lama, and this seat was traditionally based in the monastery.

History

As the traditional capital of the central Tsang region, Shigatse was long a rival with Lhasa for political control of the country. The Tsang kings and later governors exercised their power from the imposing heights of the (recently rebuilt) Shigatse Dzong. Since the time of the Mongol sponsorship of the Gelugpa order, Shigatse has been the seat of the Panchen Lamas, the second-highest-ranking lamas in Tibet. Their centre was and remains the Tashilhunpo Monastery.

Shigatse

1Top Sights

1Wordo MuseumD4

1Sights

2Tashilhunpo MonasteryA2

4Sleeping

3Gang Gyan Orchard HotelB3

4Qomolangzong HotelC3

5Tibet Zangba HotelC2

5Eating

Sumptuous Tibetan RestaurantB3

6Third Eye RestaurantB3

Wordo KitchenD4

7Shopping

7Tibet Gang Gyen Carpet FactoryB3

8Tibetan MarketB1

1Sights

Buy your tickets to Tashilunpo Monastery at the ticket booth by the main southern entrance.

Tashilhunpo MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(བཀྲ་ཤིས་ལྷུན་དགོན་; 扎什伦布寺; Zhāshílúnbù Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥80; h9am-7:30pm)

One of the few monasteries in Tibet to weather the stormy seas of the Cultural Revolution, Tashilhunpo remains relatively unscathed. It is a real pleasure to explore the busy cobbled lanes twisting around the aged buildings. Covering 70,000 sq metres, the monastery is now the largest functioning religious institution in Tibet and one of its great monastic sights. The huge golden statue of the Future Buddha is the largest gilded statue in the world.

zFestivals & Events

Tashilhunpo Monastery FestivalCULTURAL

During the second week of the fifth lunar month (around June/July), Tashilhunpo Monastery becomes the scene of a three-day festival, featuring masked dances, the creation of a sand mandala and the unveiling of a huge thangka.

4Sleeping

Shigatse has a good range of decent hotels, most with flush toilets and 24-hour hot water.

oGang Gyan Orchard HotelHOTEL$

(日喀则刚坚宾馆; Rìkāzé Gāngjiān Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-882 0777; 77 Zhufeng Lu; dm ¥50, d with bathroom ¥200; aW)

This hotel offers modern, Western-style rooms with comfortable beds and clean, hot-water bathrooms. Best of all is the convenient location, right across from Tashilhunpo Monastery, less than 100m from the Tashilhunpo kora and next to two of Shigatse's best restaurants. Ask for a room overlooking the interior courtyard as these are much quieter.

Tibet Zangba HotelHOTEL$$

(臧巴大酒店; Zāngbā Dàjiŭdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-866 7888; 9 Renbu Lu; d/tr ¥240/340; aW)

This three-star Tibetan place is a good choice. The rooms are fresh, modern and carpeted, with contemporary bathrooms and lots of Tibetan touches, including a good Tibetan restaurant. Side rooms are quietest.

Gesar HotelHOTEL$$$

(格萨尔酒店; Gésà'ěr Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-880 0088; Longjiang Lu; r standard/deluxe incl breakfast ¥380/480; aiW)

This new four-star giant has clean and modern Tibetan-style rooms, each decorated with its own thangka of Gesar Ling, and a pleasant rooftop teahouse, though the location in the southern suburbs is a bit of a drag. The deluxe rooms are huge but the glass-walled bathrooms won't work unless you and your room-mate are very close friends.

Qomolangzong HotelHOTEL$$$

(乔穆朗宗酒店; Qiáomùlǎngzōng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-866 6333; cnr Shanghai Zhonglu & Zhufeng Lu; d incl breakfast ¥780)

This plush hotel opened in 2015, offering an impressive lobby of stone and wood, and spacious Tibetan-style rooms, though even here you can't escape the occasional stinky bathroom. The top-floor teahouse offers fine views over the city. Surprisingly little English is spoken.

5Eating

oSumptuous Tibetan RestaurantTIBETAN$

(丰盛臧式餐厅; Fēngshèng Zāngshì Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhufeng Lu; mains ¥15-50; h10am-11pm)

A great option next to the Gang Gyan Orchard Hotel that's always buzzing and full of Tibetans. Choose from comfy TIbetan-style seats and decor inside or the pleasant back terrace. Prices are reasonable, the food is good and the waiters eager to please. The menu and management are the same as the Tibet Family Restaurant's.

oWordo KitchenTIBETAN$$

(吾尔朵厨房; Wú'ěrduǒ Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-882 3994; 8 Zhade Donglu; mains ¥15-70; h9:30am-11pm)

For something a bit special, head out to this stylish restaurant and museum in the southeast of town. The pleasant Tibetan seating is decorated with old prayer wheels, and yak-butter pots and live music gets things going in the evenings. Dishes range from curried potatoes and potato momos to more ambitious yak ribs and lamb's leg.

Ask for Kelsang to explain the Tibetan menu and make sure you head upstairs to the museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 8992 0067; Wordo Kitchen, Zhade Donglu; ¥20, for restaurant customers ¥15; h9:30am-11pm) before or after dinner. There are plans to move both the restaurant and museum to south Shigatse in 2018.

oThird Eye RestaurantNEPALI$$

(雪莲餐厅; Xuělián Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-883 8898; Zhufeng Lu; dishes ¥25-50; h9am-10pm)

A Nepali-run place that is popular with both locals and tourists. Watch as locals sip thugpa while travellers treat their taste buds to the city's best Indian curries and sizzlers. The chicken tikka masala and the yak steak are both excellent. It’s upstairs, next to the Gang Gyan Orchard Hotel.

7Shopping

Tibetan MarketARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bangjiakong Lu; h10am-6pm)

The open-air market in the Tibetan old town is a good place to pick up low-grade Tibetan crafts and souvenirs, such as prayer wheels, rosaries and traditional Tibetan boots. Bargain hard. The street market just to the east is the best place to get a Tibetan chuba (cloak).

Tibet Gang Gyen Carpet FactoryCARPETS

(西藏刚坚地毯厂; Xīzàng Gāngjiān Dìtǎn Chǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 0892 1399; www.tibetgang-gyencarpet.com; 9 Zhufeng Lu; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)

Beside the Gang Gyan Orchard Hotel, 100m down a side alley, this workshop hires and trains impoverished women to weave high-quality wool carpets. Upon arrival you’ll be directed to the workshop, where you can watch the 80 or so women work on the carpets, singing as they weave, dye, trim and spin; you’re free to take photos.

8Information

Bank of China (Main Branch)BANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Shanghai Zhonglu; h9:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun)

The main branch is just south of the Shigatse Hotel and has a 24-hour ATM.

Bank of ChinaBANK

(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Zhufeng Lu; h9:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)

A short walk from the Gang Gyan Orchard Hotel, this useful branch has a 24-hour ATM.

China PostPOST

(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Shandong Lu & Zhufeng Lu; h9:30am-6:30pm)

It’s possible to send international letters and postcards from here, but not international parcels.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB; 公安局; Gōng'ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0892-882 2240; Jilin Nanlu; h9:30am-12:30pm & 3:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1:30pm Sat & Sun)

Your guide will likely have to stop here for half an hour to register and/or pick up an alien's travel permit for the Friendship Hwy or western Tibet. It's in the southern suburbs, near the Gesar Hotel.

Ticket BoothBOOKING SERVICE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Buy your tickets to Tashilunpo Monastery at this ticket booth by the main southern entrance.

8Getting There & Away

Tibet Airlines operates four flights a week from Shigatse’s Peace Airport, 45km east of town, to Chéngdū (¥1880).

Minibuses, buses and taxis travel from Shigatse to Lhasa and run in the morning to Sakya (four hours), Lhatse (five hours) and Gyantse (1½ hours), but foreign tourists aren't allowed to take them.

The 250km train spur line from Lhasa to Shigatse opened in late 2014 and foreigners can now theoretically take these trains as part of their guided tour. It's certainly a lot faster given the number of checkposts currently in place on the Lhasa–Shigatse road.

Train Z8804 departs Shigatse at 12:05pm, while train Z8802 departs at 6:40pm. Both services run daily and take just under three hours. A hard-seat ticket costs ¥41, while a seat in soft sleeper costs from ¥170. The station is about 10km south of town on the road to Gyantse.

Lhatse ལྷ་རྩེ་; 拉孜; Lāzī

%0892 / Elev 3950m

Approximately 150km southwest of Shigatse and some 30km west of the Sakya turn-off, the modern town of Lhatse (ལྷ་རྩེ་; 拉孜; Lāzī) is a convenient overnight stop for travellers headed to western Tibet. Lhatse is more or less a one-street town with a small square near the centre. The 3km-long main street runs east–west and used to be part of the Friendship Hwy, but this has now been diverted to the north. Passing traffic will mostly be heading to Everest Base Camp, the Tibet–Nepal border or the turn-off for western Tibet, about 6km out of town past a major checkpoint.

If you have time to kill you could visit the renovated Changmoche Monastery at the western end of town.

Daily morning minibuses (five hours) run between Shigatse and Lhatse and a couple of buses a day pass through en route to Shegar and Saga, although tourists cannot take these services. Lhatse is 50km from Sakya and 150km from Shigatse.

Sakya ས་སྐྱ་ 萨迦

%0892 / Elev 4320m

A detour to visit the small town of Sakya (ས་སྐྱ་; 萨迦; Sàjiā) is pretty much de rigueur for any trip down the Friendship Hwy. The town is southeast of Shigatse, about 25km off the Southern Friendship Hwy, accessed via a paved road through a pretty farming valley. The draw is Sakya Monastery, which ranks as one of the most atmospheric, impressive and unique monasteries in Tibet. Moreover, Sakya occupies a pivotal place in Tibetan history.

In recent years Sakya village has transformed from a village into a town and the area around the monastery has been developed by a private company to include a huge parking lot and a hefty new entry fee, but Sakya still feels somewhat off the grid.

1Sights

oSakya MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(萨迦寺; Sàjiā Sì admission ¥180; h9am-6pm)

The immense, grey, thick-walled southern monastery is one of Tibet’s most impressive constructed sights, and one of the largest monasteries. Established in 1268, it was designed defensively, with watchtowers on each corner of its high walls. Inside, the dimly lit hall exudes a sanctity and is on a scale that few others can rival. As usual, morning is the best time to visit as most chapels are closed from 1:30pm to 3:30pm.

4Sleeping & Eating

Manasarovar Sakya HotelHOTEL$$

(神湖萨迦宾馆; Shénhú Sàjiā Bīnguǎn %0892-824 2555; 1 Gesang Xilu; d/tr ¥220/280; W)

The renovated rooms at this modern hotel are spacious and comfortable, with hot-water bathrooms and electric blankets, making it the best value in town.

Yuan Mansion HotelHOTEL$$$

(元府大酒店; Yuánfǔ Dàjiǔdiàn %0892-824 2222; Gesang Xilu; d ¥480; aW)

Sakya's newest hotel is run by the next-door Manasarovar Sakya Hotel and is similar, but boasts newer bathrooms and better furniture.

Sakya Farmer's Taste RestaurantTIBETAN$

(萨迦农民美食厅; Sàjiā Nóngmín Měishítīng %0892-824 2221; dishes ¥20-35)

Overlooking the main street, this Tibetan place has a cosy atmosphere amid Tibetan decor. The waiters are friendly and will help explain the various Tibetan and Chinese dishes available. The food is tasty but portions are small.

8Getting There & Away

Sakya is 25km off the Friendship Hwy. En route you'll pass the impressive ridgetop Tonggar Choede Monastery. Just 5km before Sakya at Chonkhor Lhunpo village is the Ogyen Lhakhang, where local farmers go to get blessings from relics said to be able to prevent hailstorms.

Everest Region

For foreign travellers, Everest Base Camp has become one of the most popular destinations in Tibet, offering the chance to gaze on the magnificent north face of the world’s tallest peak, Mt Everest (珠穆朗玛峰; Zhūmùlǎngmǎ Fēng; 8848m). The Tibetan approach provides far better vistas than those on the Nepali side, and access is a lot easier as a road runs all the way to base camp.

Everest’s Tibetan name is generally rendered as Qomolangma, and some 27,000 sq km of territory around Everest’s Tibetan face have been designated as the Qomolangma Nature Preserve.

Most visitors are content with early morning views of the mountain from Rongphu Monastery and the viewpoint above Everest Base Camp, though we recommend throwing in some explorations on foot and then exiting the region via the little-used dirt road to Old Tingri.

1Sights

Everest Base CampCAMPGROUND

(ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མའི་གཤམ་འོག་; 珠峰基地營; Zhūfēng Jīdìyíng )

Endowed with springs, Everest Base Camp (5150m) was first used by the 1924 British Everest expedition. Tourists are not allowed to visit the expedition tents a few hundred metres away, but you can clamber up the small hill festooned with prayer flags for great views of the star attraction. Be prepared for plenty of crowds and selfie sticks.

Rongphu MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(绒布寺; Róngbù Sì admission ¥25)

Although religious centres have existed in the region since around the 8th century, Rongphu Monastery (4980m) is now the main Buddhist centre in the valley. While not of great antiquity, Rongphu can at least lay claim to being the highest monastery in Tibet and, thus, the world. It's worth walking the short kora path around the monastery's exterior walls. The monastery and its large chörten make for a superb photograph with Everest thrusting its head skyward in the background.

4Sleeping

Rongphu Monastery GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(绒布寺招待所; Róngbù Sì Zhāodàisuǒ %136 2892 1359; dm ¥60, tw without bathroom ¥200)

The monastery-run guesthouse at Rongphu is probably the most comfortable place to stay at Everest. The private rooms with proper beds and stone walls tend to be warmer than the tent camp and there's certainly more privacy. Best value are the beds in a four-bed room. All rooms share the pit toilets.

8Information

Apart from the normal Tibet travel permits, you need to buy an entry ticket for the Qomolangma Nature Preserve to visit the Everest region, either at the main turn-off from the Friendship Hwy or in Old Tingri. The ticket costs ¥400 per vehicle plus ¥180 per passenger. Your guide (but not driver) will also need a ticket. Make sure you are clear with your agency about whether this cost is included in your trip (it usually isn’t).

Your passport and PSB permit will be scrutinised at the major checkpoint 6km west of Shegar, where you'll have to personally walk through the passport check. Queues can be long here, especially after lunch, as even Chinese and local Tibetans need to register here.

Your ticket will be checked again just before Rongphu Monastery. If you are driving in from Tingri, you'll go to the checkpoint at Lungchang. A military checkpost at Rongphu will also want to check your permits.

8Getting There & Away

There is no public transport to Everest Base Camp. It’s either trek in or come with your own vehicle. From Chay it's 91km to Base Camp; from Tingri it's around 70km on an unpaved road.

Tingri དིང་རི་ 定日

%0892 / Elev 4330m

The village of Tingri (དིང་རི་; 定日; Dìngrì or Tingri Gankar) comprises a gritty kilometre-long strip of restaurants, guesthouses and truck-repair workshops lining the Friendship Hwy. Sometimes called Old Tingri, it overlooks a sweeping plain bordered by towering Himalayan peaks (including Everest) and is a common overnight stop for tours heading to or from the Nepali border. On clear days there are stunning views of Cho Oyu from Tingri; if you can’t make it to Everest Base Camp, at least pause here and take in the Himalayan eye candy.

It is possible to trek between Everest Base Camp and Tingri, though the route now follows a dirt road.

oKangar HotelHOTEL$$

(岗嘎宾馆; Gǎnggā Bīnguǎn %0892-826 5777; www.tibetshangrila.com/hotel.html; d/tr ¥260/360; W)

This option on the east end of town is well run, offering comfortable rooms, a fine sunroof sitting area, a modern restaurant and great views of the mountains. Water pressure can be iffy upstairs so ask the staff to adjust the pump when you want a shower. Probably your best bet in town.

oBase Camp RestaurantTIBETAN$$

(大本营餐厅; Dàběnyíng Cāntīng dishes ¥30-50; h11am-10pm)

The best place in town is this pleasant Tibetan-style restaurant attached to Héhū Bīnguǎn hotel, boasting traditional furniture, helpful staff and tasty Chinese and Tibetan dishes. Prices are reasonable for Tingri.

Qomolangma Nature Preserve Ticket OfficeTICKETS

(%156 9262 6148)

Entry tickets to Qomolangma Nature Preserve are available at this office within the compound of the Snow Leopard Guesthouse (雪豹客栈; Xuěbào Kèzhàn %0892-826 2711; d/tr ¥250/320).

From Tingri down to Zhāngmù on the Nepal border it's an easy half-day drive of just under 200km. If you are coming the other way, you should break the trip into two days to aid acclimatisation. The highest point along the paved road is the Tong-la pass (5140m), 95km from Tingri, from where you can see a horizon of 8000m Himalayan peaks.

FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY (NEPAL TO TIBET)

The 1000km-or-so stretch of road between Kathmandu and Lhasa is without a doubt one of the most spectacular in the world. There are currently two routes from Kathmandu. The oldest route is via the border crossing at Kodari (1873m) and Zhāngmù (2250m), but this section was badly affected by Nepal's 2015 earthquake and remains closed to international traffic.

The main Nepal–Tibet border crossing has shifted to Rasuwa at the meeting of Nepal's Langtang region and Tibet's Kyirong Valley. Chinese travellers have been using the border crossing for a few years now, but it was only opened to foreigners in 2016. It's a spectacular route that allows you to combine a trek in Nepal's Langtang region with a visit to lovely Peiku-tso on the Tibetan side. The section of road on the Tibetan side is paved, but the Nepali road is slow going, especially during the monsoon months from June to September.

The closure of the border at Kodari means that Zhāngmù and Nyalam (3750m), where travellers used to spend their first night, are now virtual ghost towns. The two routes join just north of the La Lung-la (4845m) on the Friendship Hwy and continue to Tingri.

It is essential to watch out for the effects of altitude sickness during the early stages of this trip. If you intend to head up to Everest Base Camp (5150m), you really need to slip in a rest day at Tingri or Kyirong.

China is 2¼ hours ahead of Nepali time.

Far West Ngari

Tibet’s far wild west has few permanent settlers but is nevertheless a lodestone to a billion pilgrims from three major religions (Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism). They are drawn to the twin spiritual power places of Mt Kailash and Lake Manasarovar, two of the most legendary and far-flung destinations in the world.

This part of Ngari is a huge, expansive realm of salt lakes, Martian-style deserts, grassy steppes and snowcapped mountains. It’s a mesmerising landscape, but it's also intensely remote: a few tents and herds of yaks may be all the signs of human existence you'll come across in half a day’s drive.

Darchen & Mt Kailash དར་ཆེན། གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ་ 塔钦、冈仁波齐峰

%0897 / Elev 4670m

Sacred Mt Kailash (གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ་; Kang Rinpoche, or 'Precious Jewel of Snow' in Tibetan; 冈仁波齐峰; Gāngrénbōqí Fēng in Chinese) dominates the landscape of western Tibet with the sheer awesomeness of its four-sided summit, just as it dominates the mythology of a billion people. The mountain has been a lodestone to pilgrims and adventurous travellers for centuries, but until recently very few had set eyes on it. This is changing fast.

Nestled in the foothills at the base of Mt Kailash, the small town of Darchen (དར་ཆེན།; 塔钦; Tǎqīn) is the starting point of the sacred mountain's famous kora (pilgrim circuit). It is a rapidly expanding settlement of hotel compounds, tourist restaurants and pilgrim shops. Almost everyone spends a night here before setting off on the kora, and many spend a second night after the trek, taking advantage of the facilities to grab a hot shower and check their emails.

2Activities

The main reason anyone comes to Darchen is to to make the three-day walk around the Mt Kailash kora, but there are also a couple of good acclimatisation hikes around town.

The age-old path around Mt Kailash is one of the world’s great pilgrimage routes and completely encircles Asia’s holiest mountain. With a 5630m pass to conquer, this kora is a test of both the mind and the spirit.

There’s some gorgeous mountain scenery along this trek, including close-ups of the majestic pyramidal Mt Kailash, but just as rewarding is the chance to see and meet your fellow pilgrims, many of whom have travelled hundreds of kilometres on foot to get here. Apart from local Tibetans, there are normally dozens of Hindus on the kora during the main pilgrim season (June to September). Most ride horses, with yak teams carrying their supplies. There are also plenty of Chinese tourists.

The route around Mt Kailash is a simple one: you start by crossing a plain, then head up a wide river valley, climb up and over the 5630m Drölma-la, head down another river valley, and finally cross the original plain to the starting point. It’s so straightforward and so perfect a natural circuit that it’s easy to see how it has been a pilgrim favourite for thousands of years.

The Mt Kailash trekking season runs from mid-May until mid-October, but trekkers should always be prepared for changeable weather. Snow may be encountered on the Drölma-la at any time of year and the temperature will often drop well below freezing at night. The pass tends to be snowed in from early November to early April.

The kora is becoming more and more popular. A tent and your own food are always a nice luxury, but there is now accommodation and simple food at Dira-puk and Zutul-puk. Guides can even book you a room here in advance. Bottled water, beer, instant noodles and tea are available every few hours at teahouse tents. Natural water sources abound, but you should bring the means of water purification. A dirt road now encircles two-thirds of the kora, but traffic is light and it's fairly easy to avoid.

Horses, yaks and porters are all available for hire in Darchen, the gateway town to the kora. Big groups often hire yaks to carry their supplies, but yaks will only travel in pairs or herds, so you have to hire at least two. Horses are an easier option but are surprisingly expensive because they are in great demand by Indian pilgrims. Most hikers carry their own gear or get by with the services of a local porter (¥210 per day for a minimum of three days). All guides and pack animals have to be arranged through a central office (岗仁波齐牛马运输服务中心; Gǎngrén Bōqí Niúmǎ Yùnshū Fúwù Zhōngxīn %porters 139 8907 5383, yaks & horses 136 3897 3593) in Darchen.

Your guide will register your group with the PSB (PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú %0897-260 7018; h24hr) in Darchen. The entrance fee to Mt Kailash is ¥150 per person and is paid at a large entry gate before you arrive in Darchen.

zFestivals & Events

Saga DawaRELIGIOUS

(hMay or Jun)

The festival of Saga Dawa marks the enlightenment of Sakyamuni, and occurs on the full-moon day of the fourth Tibetan month. In the Kailash region the highlight is the raising of the Tarboche prayer pole in the morning. Monks circumambulate the pole in elaborate costumes, with horns blowing. After the pole has been raised, about 1pm, everyone sets off on their kora.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most travellers spend a night in Darchen before the kora. Many guesthouses offer basic accommodation (no running water, outdoor pit toilets). Bigger places can be fully booked with large groups of Indian pilgrims during the summer months of June, July and August.

Supplies on the Mt Kailash kora are limited to instant noodles and beer, so stock up on snacks in Darchen's supermarkets before heading off.

Kailash and Holy Lake Guest HouseHOTEL$$

(神山圣湖宾馆, Shénshān Shènghú Bīnguǎn %136 2891 8072; dm ¥50, d ¥200-240)

One of the best options in Darchen, this is the first hotel you come to as you enter town from the south. It's far from perfect – the wi-fi only really works in the lobby and you should check the plumbing before accepting a room – but the hot water is pretty reliable and rooms are spacious. It's next to the Himalaya Hotel.

The simple dorm rooms are out the back in a glasshouse-style building.

Markham TeahouseTIBETAN$

(芒康藏餐, Mángkāng Zāngcān dishes ¥15-30)

A cosy and friendly Tibetan teahouse whose comfy sofas beckon for sweet tea, breakfast omelettes, noodles and fried dishes, all easy to order on a picture menu. It's on the upper floor, above a shop, on the southwestern corner of Darchen's central crossroad.

8Information

Almost all hotels and even restaurants offer free wi-fi. On the kora you can use your cell phone's 3G connection to go online.

8Getting There & Away

Darchen is 3km north of the main Ali–Saga road, about 12km from Barkha, 107km north of Purang, 330km southeast of Ali and a lonely 1200km from Lhasa.

Lake Manasarovar མཚོ་མི་ཕམ་ 玛旁雄错

Elev 4560m

Sacred Lake Manasarovar (མཚོ་མི་ཕམ་; Mapham Yum-tso, or Victorious Lake, in Tibetan; 玛旁雄错; Mǎpáng Xióngcuò, in Chinese) is the most venerated of Tibet’s many lakes and one of its most beautiful. With its sapphire-blue waters, sandy shoreline and snowcapped-mountain backdrop, Manasarovar is immediately appealing, and a welcome change from the often forbidding terrain of Mt Kailash.

Most visitors base themselves at picturesque Chiu village, site of Chiu Monastery, on the northwestern shore of the lake. Indian pilgrims often drive around the lake, immersing themselves in the sacred waters at some point. You'll also see Tibetan pilgrims walking the four-day kora path around the lake.

The lake area has a one-time admission fee of ¥150 per person (the Mt Kailash fee does not cover this).

Tashi GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(吉鸟扎西宾馆, Jíniǎo Zhāxī Bīnguǎn %138 8907 3536; dm ¥60)

This is probably the most popular of the half-dozen guesthouses lining the Manasarovar shoreline at Chiu. Rooms are simple, with pit toilets outside, but there's a cosy dining room.

Chiu, at the northwestern corner of the lake, is 15km south of Barkha junction, from where it is 22km west to Darchen or 22km east to Hor Qu. The only way to get around is to have your own transport or hike around the lake.

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Around Lhasa

Drepung Monastery འབྲས་སྤུང་ 哲蚌寺

Ganden Monastery དགའ་ལྡན་ 甘丹寺

Sera Monastery སེ་ར་དགོན་པ་ 色拉寺

Ü དབུས་

Yarlung Tsangpo Valley ཡར་ཀླུང་གཙང་པོའི་གཞུང་ 雅鲁流域

Southern Ngari

Saga ས་དགའ་; 萨嘎

Tsang གཙང

Gyantse རྒྱལ་རྩེ་ 江孜

Shigatse གཞི་ཀ་རྩེ་ 日喀则

History

Lhatse ལྷ་རྩེ་; 拉孜; Lāzī

Sakya ས་སྐྱ་ 萨迦

Everest Region

Tingri དིང་རི་ 定日

FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY (NEPAL TO TIBET)

Far West Ngari

Darchen & Mt Kailash དར་ཆེན། གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ་ 塔钦 、冈仁波齐峰

Lake Manasarovar མཚོ་མི་ཕམ་ 玛旁雄错

Darchen & Mt Kailash དར་ཆེན། གངས་རིན་པོ་ཆེ་ 塔钦、冈仁波齐峰