The French term ‘sur le pouce’ means on the go and is generally used to describe fast food. I’m not a fan of the usual sort of fast food, but sometimes we all need to put together something good to eat in a hurry. This chapter includes my idea of fast food – omelettes and other egg dishes, open sandwiches or tartines, and dips. All are quick, easy and delicious.
OEUFS BROUILLÉS AUX ANCHOIS ET OLIVES
Scrambled Eggs with Anchovies
My favourite sort of fast food, this dish is popular all along the French Mediterranean coast. It’s made with simple store-cupboard ingredients but it has bags of flavour and is good served at any time of day. If you don’t like the saltiness of anchovies, give them a thorough rinse under cold water.
Serves 4
12 GOOD-QUALITY SALTED ANCHOVIES IN OLIVE OIL
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
10 FREE-RANGE EGGS
1 TBSP COLD BUTTER
24 GREEN OLIVES, PITTED AND HALVED
CHIVES OR SPRING ONION LEAVES, SNIPPED
TOAST, TO SERVE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Finely chop 4 of the anchovies. Warm the oil in a heavy-based pan, then gently cook the chopped anchovies and garlic. Take the pan off the heat and leave to cool.
Cut the remaining anchovies in half lengthways. Beat the eggs in a bowl, but do not season them.
Pour the eggs into the pan with the chopped anchovies and garlic and cook them over a medium heat, while stirring with a spatula or wooden spoon. When the eggs are cooked but still a little runny, take the pan off the heat and mix in the butter.
Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed. Spoon the eggs into bowls and arrange the halved anchovies and olives on top. Finish with some snipped chives or spring onion leaves, then serve at once with some toast.
CROQUE-MADAME AU FOUR AVEC OEUFS DE CAILLE
Baked Croque-Madame with Quails’ Eggs
The traditional croque-madame is made with a rich béchamel sauce and is usually fried. My baked version is just as delicious but less calorific and much easier to make for a crowd, as it is baked in the oven. The bulk of the preparation can be done in advance if you like.
Serves 6
225G STALE BREAD (SOURDOUGH IS BEST)
3 FREE-RANGE EGGS, PLUS 2 YOLKS
600ML MILK
100ML DOUBLE CREAM
1 TSP DIJON MUSTARD
90G GRUYÈRE CHEESE, GRATED
90G COMTÉ CHEESE, GRATED
GENEROUS GRATING OF NUTMEG
2 TBSP BUTTER
200G GOOD-QUALITY COOKED HAM, SLICED
6 QUAILS’ EGGS
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7. Cut the bread into 3cm cubes, put them on a baking tray and toast them in the oven until they’re dry and lightly coloured. Remove the bread and leave the oven on.
Whisk the 3 eggs, 2 yolks, milk and cream together in a bowl. Add the mustard and grated cheeses and season with nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Generously butter a roasting tin. Add a layer of bread cubes, then enough of the egg and cheese mixture to cover, followed by some slices of ham. Repeat the layers twice more until all the bread, egg mixture and ham are used up. Leave to stand for 5 minutes, pressing the layers down with a spatula to make sure the bread absorbs the liquid.
Bake in the oven for 20 minutes – you can prepare the dish in advance to this point. Take the tin out and carefully crack the quails’ eggs on top, spacing them evenly. Put the tin back in the oven, turn the temperature down to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and bake for another 10–12 minutes or until the quails’ eggs are just cooked.
Cut the croque-madame into portions, making sure there is an egg on each serving.
Baked Cheese Sandwich
The classic French cheese toastie is made with a béchamel sauce, but this is my quicker, lighter version. It’s a good way of using up any scraps of cheese in the fridge – a mixture is good – but it is important to use good-quality bread. As for the ham, cooked or air-dried are both fine and I have even used bresaola and salami.
Serves 4
200G GRATED CHEESE (I LIKE GRUYÈRE, COMTÉ AND SOME GOATS’ CHEESE, SUCH AS A CROTTIN)
2 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
4 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
1 SMALL RED ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
GRATING OF NUTMEG
8 SLICES OF BREAD
8 SLICES OF GOOD-QUALITY COOKED HAM
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Mix the grated cheese with the mustard, crème fraîche and onion and season with nutmeg and black pepper. Preheat the oven to 230°C/Fan 210°C/Gas 8.
Lightly toast the bread, then take about a third of the cheese mixture and spread it on to 4 of the slices. Add 2 slices of ham to each one, then some more of the cheese. Top with the remaining slices of bread and spread the rest of the cheese mix over them.
Put the sandwiches on a baking sheet and bake them in the oven for 10 minutes. If the sandwiches are not brown enough, give them a quick blast under a hot grill.
Baked Eggs with Spinach
I usually make this simple family favourite with hens’ eggs but it is also great with duck eggs, which have a richer and deeper flavour. I like to serve this with some good bread and perhaps a few shavings of hard cheese, such as Cantal.
Serves 2
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
300G SPINACH, WASHED
2 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
GRATING OF NUTMEG
4 FREE-RANGE EGGS
SHAVINGS OF CHEESE, SUCH AS CANTAL (OPTIONAL)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Heat the olive oil in a pan, then add the garlic and cook it gently until soft without allowing it to brown. Add the spinach and let it wilt.
Tip the spinach into a sieve to drain and press it to get rid of as much water as you can. Transfer the spinach to a food processor, add the crème fraîche and blitz until smooth. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Pour this mixture into an ovenproof dish, about 20 x 30cm in size, spreading it to about 2cm thick.
Break the eggs on top. Put the dish in the oven and bake for about 12 minutes or until the whites of the eggs are set. Serve at once, scattered with some shavings of cheese, if using.
Egg Mayonnaise
I’m more than happy to eat eggs at any time of day. This recipe for egg mayonnaise is lighter than the usual, as I make it with a little cream cheese and oil instead of mayonnaise. Served with a touch of chilli oil and some crispy chicken skin it’s a real treat – most butchers will give you some chicken skin if you ask. Good with sourdough toast.
Serves 4
4 FREE-RANGE EGGS (AT ROOM TEMPERATURE)
1 TSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
1 TBSP CREAM CHEESE
4 PIECES OF CHICKEN SKIN, ABOUT THE SIZE OF YOUR HAND
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Chilli Oil
300ML OLIVE OIL
1 TBSP PIMENT D’ESPELETTE (SEE HERE) OR CHILLI FLAKES
2 TSP TOMATO PASTE
Bring a pan of water to the boil, add the eggs and cook them for 7 minutes. Drain, then put them in a bowl of iced water to stop them cooking any more.
Carefully peel the eggs and cut them in half. The yolks should be almost set – not hard. Remove the yolks and put them in a bowl or blender – set the whites aside. Add the mustard, oil and cream cheese to the yolks, then season well with salt and black pepper and mix until smooth.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Scrape the chicken skins and remove any feathers. Place the skins on a roasting tray lined with greaseproof paper and season them with salt and pepper. Bake in the oven for 20–30 minutes until the skin is golden and crisp.
For the chilli oil, put all the ingredients in a blender and blitz until smooth. Pour the oil into a jar. This makes more than you need for this recipe but you can store the oil in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.
To serve, pile the yolk mixture back into the halves. Break up the pieces of chicken skin and scatter them on top, then add a drizzle of chilli oil.
OEUFS COCOTTES ARDÈCHOISE
Baked Eggs with Chestnuts
The Ardèche is the main chestnut-growing region in France, so plenty of the local dishes contain chestnuts. They make a nice addition to this baked egg recipe, which is quick and easy to make and very tasty to eat. You can use vacuum-packed chestnuts if you like.
Serves 4
BUTTER, FOR GREASING
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
6–8 CEPS (FROZEN ARE FINE), WIPED AND SLICED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, CHOPPED
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
4 LARGE COOKED CHESTNUTS, SHELLED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
4 FREE-RANGE EGGS
360ML DOUBLE CREAM
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
You need 4 ramekins or ovenproof dishes measuring about 5cm high and 8cm in diameter. Lightly butter the insides. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Heat the oil in a frying pan and gently sauté the sliced ceps. Add the garlic and parsley, then season with salt and pepper.
Divide the ceps between the dishes and add the chestnuts. Break an egg into each dish, then divide the cream between them. Season with a little salt and pepper.
Place the dishes in a roasting tin and add enough just-boiled water to come halfway up the sides. Bake in the preheated oven for 12–15 minutes, then serve straightaway.
Scrambled Eggs with Snails
I remember gathering snails with my father when I was a child and going through the very long process of purging, then cooking them. Now we always have a jar or tin of snails in the cupboard ready to devour. This is a fairly rich and indulgent dish, but now and then it’s good to be naughty. I’ve made the crème fraîche optional but for my father it’s essential!
Serves 4
2 TBSP BUTTER
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND CHOPPED
120G COOKED SNAILS, DRAINED
10 FREE-RANGE EGGS, LIGHTLY BEATEN
1 TBSP PASTIS
2 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE (OPTIONAL)
4 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
LEAVES FROM A BUNCH OF WATERCRESS, WASHED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Melt a tablespoon of the butter in a pan, add the shallot and garlic and cook them gently until softened. Add the drained snails, coat them in the butter and season with salt and pepper. Take the pan off the heat and set aside.
Meanwhile, pour the eggs into a separate pan and cook them slowly over a medium heat, stirring with a spatula or wooden spoon. Once the eggs are cooked but still a little runny, take the pan off the heat and mix in the remaining butter.
Add the pastis and the crème fraiche, if using, to the snails and simmer for 30 seconds, then add the parsley and watercress.
Serve the scrambled eggs topped with the snails.
OMELETTE AUX BLETTES
Swiss Chard Omelette
Swiss chard is full of flavour and goodness. This omelette is delicious for a quick lunch and also nice served cold for a snack or to take on a picnic.
Serves 4
400G BABY SWISS CHARD, WASHED
120G PANCETTA OR VENTRÈCHE (SEE HERE), DICED
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 TBSP BUTTER
6–8 FREE-RANGE EGGS
50G GRUYÈRE OR EMMENTAL CHEESE, GRATED
RED WINE VINEGAR
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Wash the chard well and remove any damaged leaves or stalks. Bring a pan of water to the boil, season it with salt, then add the chard and cook it for 3–4 minutes. Drain and refresh the chard in a bowl of iced water to stop the cooking process. When the chard is cold, drain it again and squeeze out as much moisture as you can. Roughly chop the leaves and stalks.
Add the pancetta or ventrèche to a frying pan over a medium heat and cook until it has rendered some of its fat. Add the shallot, garlic and oil and cook for 2–3 minutes, then add the chard, season well and fry for another couple of minutes. Tip everything into a bowl.
Heat the butter in the same frying pan until foaming. Beat the eggs in a bowl with the cheese, then add the chard mixture. Pour this into the pan and stir with a spatula until it starts to set. Cover the pan with a lid and leave the omelette to cook gently for 6–8 minutes until completely set.
Don’t fold this omelette – turn it out on to a plate and cut it into 4 wedges. Sprinkle with a few drops of vinegar and serve at once.
Souffléed Cheese Omelette
This is halfway between an omelette and a soufflé and makes a delicious quick meal. I like to use Comté cheese but any kind will do. Once you’ve mastered the basic recipe, you can try adding extras such as ham or chopped herbs to the mix. Anything goes! A little side salad is all you need with this.
Serves 2
4 FREE-RANGE EGGS, SEPARATED
2 PINCHES OF SALT
1 TBSP BUTTER
100G HARD CHEESE SUCH AS COMTÉ, GRATED
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Whisk the egg whites with the salt until they form firm peaks. Whisk the egg yolks in a separate bowl, then whisk in one-third of the whites. Gently fold in the remaining whites.
Melt the butter in a non-stick, ovenproof frying pan, then pour in the eggs. Leave the pan on the hob for 20 seconds, then sprinkle on the cheese and season with black pepper. Transfer the pan to the preheated oven for 5 minutes, then divide the omelette in half and serve.
TAPENADE
Black Olive Paste
This is one of those French classics that really can’t be improved on. Use it as a dip, spread it liberally on toast, or use a spoonful to liven up a salad dressing. Wonderful.
Serves 6–8
6 SALTED ANCHOVY FILLETS
200G PITTED BLACK OLIVES (NIÇOISE ARE BEST)
1 TBSP CAPERS IN BRINE, RINSED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
1 TSP CHOPPED THYME
1 GARLIC CLOVE, CRUSHED (OPTIONAL)
4 TBSP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Rinse the anchovies in cold water and pat them dry. Place them in a blender with the olives, capers, lemon juice, thyme and garlic, if using, and blitz. Scoop the mixture into a bowl, then stir in the oil and season with black pepper.
Cover the bowl and store in the fridge. Tapenade keeps well for about 2 weeks.
Garlic Mayonnaise
I always like to have some aïoli in the fridge. Using a whole egg and some vegetable oil makes this less rich than the traditional recipe. Be sure to remove any green bits from the garlic cloves, as they can make the mixture bitter and may be heavy on the digestion.
Makes a big bowlful
4–6 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 FREE-RANGE EGG
2 TSP DIJON MUSTARD
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
PINCH OF SALT
250ML SUNFLOWER OIL
125ML OLIVE OIL
Put the garlic in a blender with the egg, mustard, lemon juice and salt. Blitz for a few seconds until the mixture starts to emulsify. Then, with the motor running, slowly pour in the oils.
Scoop the aïoli into a bowl and cover. Serve with socca (see here), sticks of raw vegetables, whatever you like. This keeps well in the fridge for about a week.
Anchovy Dip
Serve this classic dip with sticks of raw vegetables or spread it on toast for a tasty snack. My version is lighter than the usual recipe and contains less oil.
Serves 6–8
200G SALTED ANCHOVIES
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CRUSHED
80ML EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
2 TBSP WHITE WINE VINEGAR
2 TBSP ROUGHLY CHOPPED PARSLEY
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Rinse the anchovies under cold water to remove excess salt, then pat them dry.
Place the anchovies in a blender with the garlic and blitz to a smooth paste. With the motor still running, add the oil and vinegar and season with black pepper. Serve garnished with chopped parsley.
SOCCA
Chickpea Pancakes
Street food from Nice, socca are simple, cheap and addictive! Serve them with dips such as tapenade (see here) or aïoli (see here) and grilled aubergines, or with salads. They’re fine finished under a grill, but if you have a wood-fired oven they will be even more delicious.
Makes about 8
150G CHICKPEA (GRAM) FLOUR
1 TSP SALT
½ TSP GROUND CUMIN
OLIVE OIL
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Mix the flour, salt and cumin in a bowl and season with pepper. Then whisk in 320ml of water and a tablespoon of oil to make a nice smooth batter. It should have a pouring consistency, like thick double cream. Cover the bowl and leave the batter to rest for an hour.
Preheat your grill. Heat an ovenproof frying pan and grease it with a tablespoon of oil. Pour in just enough batter to cover the base of the pan and use the back of a spoon or palette knife to spread it evenly to a thickness of about 5–10mm. Leave the pan on the hob until the batter sets, then place it under the hot grill until the socca blisters and even burns a little around the edges. Tip it out on to a board and repeat until you’ve used all the batter.
Serve the socca with dips or simply drizzle them with oil and season with salt.
Open Sandwich with Beef, Shallots & Watercress
Tartines, or open sandwiches, are a great light meal and a good way to use up leftovers! These are excellent with leftover roast beef, or you could cook a steak specially and slice it.
Serves 4
2 SHALLOTS, PEELED AND SLICED
200ML RED WINE
1 TBSP BROWN SUGAR
2 TBSP HAZELNUT OIL
2 TSP RED WINE VINEGAR
4 SLICES OF WHOLEMEAL COUNTRY-STYLE BREAD, ABOUT 1CM THICK
2 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
260G COOKED BEEF, THINLY SLICED
HANDFUL OF WATERCRESS, WASHED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Put the shallots in a pan with the red wine and sugar, then simmer until the wine has completely evaporated. Set the shallots aside.
Whisk the hazelnut oil with the vinegar and season with salt and pepper to make a dressing.
Toast the bread on both sides, then spread mustard over one side of each slice. Add slices of beef and top with the sticky shallots. Toss the watercress with the dressing and serve with the tartines.
Salami & Cheese Open Sandwich
I’ve suggested sourdough bread and Emmental cheese here but any kind of bread will do, as long as it’s good quality, and you can use oddments of cheese. You could also make mini versions of this recipe to serve as snacks or canapés.
Serves 2
2 SLICES OF SOURDOUGH, 1CM THICK
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
5 CORNICHONS, CHOPPED
2 TBSP MAYONNAISE
6–8 THIN SLICES OF EMMENTAL CHEESE
6–8 SLICES OF SALAMI OR SAUCISSON SEC
LETTUCE LEAVES, WASHED
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
If the bread is super-fresh, there’s no need to toast it. Otherwise, toast it lightly.
Mix the parsley and cornichons with the mayonnaise.
Arrange the cheese, salami or saucisson and lettuce leaves on the slices of bread. It’s nice to curl the cheese and salami slices slightly to provide some height.
Dot the mayonnaise mixture over each tartine and season with a little black pepper.
TARTINE BRETONNE
Open Sandwich with Sardines & Red Onion
Canned sardines are held in high esteem in France and they’re an excellent item to have in your store-cupboard. Some of the best are from Brittany and come with different oils and flavourings. You can also get great canned mussels, octopus, squid, oysters, mackerel and cod liver and they all make excellent tartines. Roscoff onions are extra-special onions grown in Brittany, but regular red onions are fine too.
Serves 4
4 SLICES OF BREAD, 1CM THICK (SOURDOUGH IS GOOD)
1 TBSP SALTED BRITTANY BUTTER
1 RED ONION OR OIGNON DE ROSCOFF
220G CANNED SARDINES OR OTHER SEAFOOD
HANDFUL OF LAMB’S LETTUCE (CORN SALAD), WASHED
60G SAMPHIRE, WASHED
1 TBSP WHITE WINE VINEGAR
Toast the bread on both sides and spread butter on one side of each slice. Slice the onion into super-fine rings.
Divide the ingredients between the slices of toast, arranging them to give a bit of height. Then drizzle with a little oil from the sardine can and some vinegar.
Open Sandwich with Goats’ Cheese & Figs
Figs and goats’ cheese go beautifully together and this open sandwich is popular in Provence. Goats’ curd is a lovely fresh cheese that makes a good contrast with the stronger hard cheese.
Serves 4
4 TBSP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
4 SLICES OF BREAD, 1CM THICK (WALNUT BREAD IS PARTICULARLY NICE HERE)
6 FRESH FIGS, CUT INTO QUARTERS
2 TBSP CLEAR HONEY
3 TBSP GOATS’ CURD
1 HARD GOATS’ CHEESE (SUCH AS CROTTIN OR PÉLARDON), GRATED
HANDFUL OF ROCKET LEAVES, WASHED
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Drizzle a little of the oil on to the slices of bread and grill them on a hot griddle pan until nicely charred on both sides.
Put the figs on a baking sheet and drizzle them with the honey. Place them under a hot grill until they’re lightly caramelised.
Spoon the goats’ curd on to the slices of griddled bread and divide the figs between them. Top with the grated hard cheese and the rocket leaves. Drizzle on the remaining olive oil and finish with a little pepper.
TARTINE NORMANDE
Open Sandwich with Cheese, Apples & Calvados
There are so many delicious cheeses from Normandy it’s hard to choose between them, but the ones that I think work best for this dish are Camembert, Pont l’Evêque or Pavé d’Auge. Apples and cider are also a speciality of Normandy and are a perfect combination.
Serves 4
2 APPLES
2 TBSP BUTTER
1 TBSP SUGAR
100ML DRY CIDER
4 SLICES OF BREAD (SOURDOUGH IS BEST)
1 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
1 TBSP CALVADOS
200G CHEESE (SEE ABOVE), SLICED
HANDFUL OF BITTER SALAD LEAVES, WASHED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Peel one of the apples and cut it into small wedges. Place the wedges in a hot pan with the butter and sugar and cook until caramelised, then add the cider and boil rapidly until the liquid has completely evaporated. Take the pan off the heat and set aside.
Toast the bread. Mix the crème fraîche with the calvados, then season with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture on to the slices of toast. Add slices of cheese, the cooked apple and salad leaves. Cut the remaining apple into fine matchsticks and sprinkle them on top.
TARTINE PROVENÇALE
Provençal Open Sandwich
With the flavours of Provence on an open sandwich, this tastes as good as it looks.
Serves 4
1 MEDIUM FENNEL BULB
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
12 GOOD-QUALITY SALTED ANCHOVIES IN OIL
4 SLICES OF BREAD, 1CM THICK (SOURDOUGH OR A GOOD-QUALITY BAGUETTE BOTH WORK WELL)
4 TBSP TAPENADE (SEE HERE)
12 CHERRY TOMATOES, HALVED
HANDFUL OF ROCKET LEAVES, WASHED
2 TBSP TOMATO AND GARLIC PURÉE (SEE HERE)
ROCKET OR BASIL LEAVES, WASHED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Trim the fennel bulb and remove the outer leaves. Using a mandolin, slice the fennel lengthways into super-thin shavings. Place these in a bowl of iced water, leave them for 10 minutes and they will curl attractively.
Drain the fennel well, then dress it with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Drain the anchovies and cut them in half lengthways.
Lightly toast the bread and spread some tapenade on each slice. Add fennel, anchovies, tomatoes and rocket, arranging them in whatever order you like. Finish with dots of tomato and garlic purée and some basil leaves.
