You can, of course, buy stocks and there are some good ones available now, but it is always worth making your own when you have time – that way you know exactly what’s in them. In this chapter I’ve also included some basic sauces and other recipes with a few tweaks to make them lighter or quicker than the traditional versions.
Vegetable Stock
This simple vegetable stock is ideal for soups and for cooking grains, such as buckwheat and Camargue red rice (see here).
Makes 2 litres
1 CARROT, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 SHALLOTS, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 SMALL ONION, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 CELERY STICKS, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 LEEK (GREEN TOP PART ONLY), ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 BAY LEAF
A FEW THYME SPRIGS
6 PARSLEY STALKS
Put all the vegetables in a large saucepan and cover them with 2.5 litres of cold water. Add the herbs and bring the water to the boil.
Simmer for about 35 minutes, then strain the stock through a sieve before using. The stock can be kept in the fridge for up to 5 days.
Fish Stock
Most fishmongers will give you fish bones and heads for stock if you ask. White fish, such as sole, whiting and turbot, are best. A good fish stock doesn’t take long to make and it does make such a difference to your dish.
Makes about 2 litres
1KG WHITE FISH BONES AND HEADS
4 TBSP UNSALTED BUTTER
1 SMALL ONION, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 CELERY STICK, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
60ML DRY WHITE WINE
6 PARSLEY STALKS
1 BAY LEAF
Remove any gills from the fish heads, then soak the heads and bones in cold water for 3–4 hours. Remove them from the water and chop roughly.
Melt the butter in a deep pan and sweat the onion and celery over a low heat until softened. Add the fish bones and heads and cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring frequently.
Pour in the wine, turn up the heat and reduce by half. Add 2 litres of water and the herbs, then bring to the boil, skimming frequently. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 25 minutes.
Strain the mixture through a muslin-lined sieve and leave to cool. The stock can be kept in the fridge for 2–3 days or it can be frozen.
Chicken Stock
This is a simple white chicken stock, made without roasting the bones, for use in soups and light chicken and fish dishes. Ask your butcher to split the calf’s foot for you.
Makes about 4 litres
2KG CHICKEN BONES OR WING TIPS
1 CALF’S FOOT, SPLIT
1 ONION, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 SMALL LEEK, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 CELERY STICKS, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 THYME SPRIGS
6 PARSLEY STALKS
Place the bones, or wing tips, and the calf’s foot in a large saucepan, cover with 5 litres of water and bring the water to the boil. Skim off the scum and any fat that comes to the surface. Turn the heat down, add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 1½ hours, skimming occasionally.
Pass the stock through a fine sieve and leave it to cool. It can be kept in the fridge for up to 5 days, or you can freeze the stock until needed.
Brown Chicken Stock
For a brown chicken stock, the chicken bones are roasted before boiling which gives extra colour and depth of flavour.
Makes about 5 litres
2KG CHICKEN BONES OR WING TIPS
1 CALF’S FOOT, SPLIT
OLIVE OIL
1 ONION, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 CARROT, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 CELERY STICK, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
5 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 TBSP TOMATO PASTE
2 THYME SPRIGS
Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7. Put the bones, or wing tips, and the calf’s foot in a roasting tin, drizzle them with olive oil and roast until brown.
Transfer the bones to a deep saucepan, cover with 5 litres of cold water and bring to a gentle simmer.
Meanwhile, place the roasting tin on the hob, add the vegetables and garlic and fry them until golden. Add the tomato paste, thyme and another litre of water. Bring to the boil, stirring well to scrape up any caramelised bits sticking to the bottom of the pan. Once the water is boiling, pour the contents of the tin into the saucepan with the bones and continue to simmer for 2 hours, skimming when necessary.
Pass the stock through a fine sieve and chill. It can be kept in the fridge for 5 days or it can be frozen.
Veal Stock
Ask your butcher to chop the bones and split the calf’s foot for you. This stock is ideal for the chicken breasts with Burgundy recipe here.
Makes about 3.5 litres
1.5KG VEAL KNUCKLE BONES, CHOPPED
1 CALF’S FOOT, SPLIT
OLIVE OIL
1 LARGE ONION, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 LARGE CARROTS, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 CELERY STICK, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
2 THYME SPRIGS
½ TBSP TOMATO PURÉE
Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7. Put the bones and calf’s foot in a roasting tin with a little oil and roast in the oven, turning them occasionally until they’re brown all over. Transfer them to a large saucepan.
Put the onion, carrots and celery into the roasting tin and roast them in the oven until golden, turning them from time to time with a wooden spatula. Pour off any excess fat and put the vegetables into the pan with the bones. Place the roasting tin over a high heat and add 500ml of water. Bring to the boil, scraping the bottom of the tin to loosen any caramelised bits, then pour everything into the pan with the bones.
Add the remaining ingredients and another 4½ litres of water and bring to the boil. Skim off any scum and fat, then turn down the heat and simmer gently for 3½ hours, skimming occasionally. Pass the stock through a fine sieve and leave to cool. The stock can be kept in the fridge for up to 7 days, or it can be frozen.
Beef Stock
Marrowbones, knuckles, ribs or oxtail tips with little or no meat on them are all fine for this stock. Ask your butcher to chop the bones up for you.
Makes about 4 litres
2KG BEEF BONES, CHOPPED
2 CARROTS, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 ONION, PEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 LEEK, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 CELERY STICKS, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 BAY LEAVES
OLIVE OIL
500ML WHITE WINE
1 TBSP BLACK PEPPERCORNS
Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7. Put the bones in a large roasting tin. Add the vegetables, garlic and bay leaves to the bones and drizzle them with a little olive oil. Roast for about 30 minutes until the bones and vegetables are browned and caramelised, turning them a couple of times.
Transfer everything to a deep stock pan or a large saucepan, discarding any fat in the roasting tin. Put the tin on the hob and add the wine. Deglaze, scraping up any sticky bits from the bottom of the tin, then add this to the bones in the pan.
Add cold water to cover the bones and vegetables by at least 20cm. Bring to the boil and add the peppercorns, then turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer. Skim well and cook for at least 6 hours. You may need to top up the liquid with a little hot water from time to time to ensure the bones stay covered.
Leave to cool, then skim off any fat and strain the stock though a fine sieve. Use immediately or chill for later use. This stock freezes well.
Basil Sauce
This wonderfully fragrant sauce is similar to Ligurian pesto but without any cheese or pine nuts. It’s usually used to flavour soups and salads but also makes a nice dip to serve with crudités. I know it’s harder work but it is best to make this with a pestle and mortar if you can. If you do use a food processor, don’t blitz the sauce until smooth – leave a little texture.
Makes about 200ml
200G BASIL LEAVES
1 TBSP COARSE SEA SALT
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CRUSHED
1 TSP GROUND BLACK PEPPER OR CHILLI POWDER
ZEST OF 1 UNWAXED LEMON (OPTIONAL)
160ML EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
Place the basil leaves, salt and garlic in a mortar and crush them until coarse. Stir in the pepper or chilli powder, lemon zest and olive oil.
If making this in a food processor, mix until combined but not too smooth.
Spoon the pistou into a bowl, cover and store in the fridge. This keeps well for about 2 weeks.
Light Hollandaise Sauce
The traditional version of this sauce is laden with butter and can be too rich and heavy. Thankfully, there is a lighter way of making it and the sauce is still delicious. Serve with vegetables, such as asparagus. It’s also lovely with fish.
Serves 6
1 FREE-RANGE EGG, PLUS AN EXTRA YOLK
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 TBSP BUTTER
1 TBSP WHITE WINE VINEGAR
2 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
SALT AND WHITE PEPPER
Crack the whole egg into a pan and add the extra yolk. Add 100ml of water, then the oil and butter and season well with salt and white pepper.
Place the pan over a medium heat and whisk with a balloon whisk until the mixture is light and fluffy. It should be thick enough to hold in the whisk as you lift it.
Take the pan off the heat and whisk in the vinegar and crème fraîche.
Mornay Sauce
Another classic French sauce, this is similar to Béchamel, but enriched with grated cheese. It’s good served with gougères (see here).
Makes about 300ml
1 TBSP BUTTER
2 TBSP FLOUR
250ML WHOLE MILK
60G COMTÉ, GRUYÈRE OR EVEN BLUE CHEESE OR A DRY GOATS’ CHEESE, GRATED
½ TSP SALT
WHITE PEPPER
GRATING OF NUTMEG
Melt the butter in a small pan. Add the flour and cook for 5 minutes over a low heat, then slowly add the milk, mixing well to avoid lumps.
Bring back to the boil and cook for 2–3 minutes. Take the pan off the heat, then beat in the grated cheese. Season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg.
Garlic & Pepper Sauce
There are many different versions of this delicious sauce, but this is one that I particularly like. Rouille is mostly served with fish soup or bouillabaisse but it’s also good on salads or spread on slices of grilled baguette.
Makes a big bowlful
PINCH OF SAFFRON
1 TBSP LEMON JUICE
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CRUSHED
2 ANCHOVY FILETS
1 RED PEPPER
1 FREE-RANGE EGG YOLK
200ML OLIVE OIL
PINCH OF CHILLI FLAKES, TO TASTE
SALT
Put the saffron in a small bowl with the lemon juice and leave for 10 minutes to soften.
Chop the garlic and rinse the anchovies.
Roast the pepper under a hot grill, turning it regularly until blackened all over. Place it in a bowl, cover with cling film and leave to cool. When cool, peel off the black skin, remove the stalk, core and seeds and roughly chop the flesh.
Place all the ingredients, except the oil, salt and chilli flakes, in a blender and blitz until smooth. Slowly add the oil until the mixture emulsifies. Scoop into a bowl and season with salt and chilli flakes to taste.
Cover and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Tomato & Herb Sauce
This sauce is best made a few hours before serving or even a day ahead to allow time for the flavours to develop. It’s a perfect accompaniment for white fish or grilled vegetables.
Serves 4–6
6 TOMATOES, PEELED AND SEEDED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 TBSP CHOPPED TARRAGON
1 TBSP CHOPPED CHERVIL
JUICE AND ZEST OF 1 LARGE LEMON
200ML EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 TSP CORIANDER SEEDS, CRUSHED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Finely chop the tomatoes and put them in a bowl. Add all the other ingredients, mix well and season with salt and pepper.
This is best served at room temperature, not cold from the fridge.
Tomato & Garlic Purée
This can be used for adding flavour to salads or sandwiches or even as a dip. It’s best to use dried tomatoes that still have some moisture – sometimes called sun-blushed or semi-dried. If you have a jar of tomatoes in oil, the oil can be used instead of, or as some of, the oil in the recipe.
Makes a small bowlful
120G SUN-DRIED OR SUN-BLUSHED TOMATOES
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CRUSHED
1 TSP CHILLI FLAKES
HANDFUL OF BASIL LEAVES
Place all the ingredients in a food processor with 2 tablespoons of water and blitz until emulsified, but not too smooth.
Scoop into a bowl and cover. This keeps in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Traditional Shortcrust Pastry
This recipe is for a classic shortcrust and ideal for dishes such as the leek and salmon quiche here.
Makes about 300g
200G PLAIN FLOUR
100G BUTTER, SOFTENED, PLUS EXTRA FOR GREASING THE TART RING
1 FREE-RANGE EGG
½ TSP SALT
Pile the flour on your work surface and make a well in the middle. Put the softened butter, egg and salt in the well and using your fingertips work them together until creamy. Gradually work in the flour and finally add a tablespoon of cold water to bring it all together. Do not overwork the pastry.
Wrap the pastry in cling film and leave it in the fridge until needed.
Light Sweet Pastry
A crumbly sweet pastry, this is made with half cream cheese, half butter to give it a lovely light texture. It’s a little less rich than the usual recipe but still indulgent and with great depth of flavour.
Makes about 350g
1 FREE-RANGE EGG YOLK
60G ICING SUGAR
1 PINCH OF SALT
½ TSP VANILLA EXTRACT
60G CREAM CHEESE
60G BUTTER, SOFTENED
200G PLAIN FLOUR
Beat the egg yolk with the sugar, salt and vanilla in a bowl until pale. Add the cream cheese and butter, then work in the flour to form a dough. Add a little more flour if needed. Don’t overwork the dough.
Wrap the dough in cling film and leave it in the fridge to rest for 30 minutes before using.
FEUILLETAGE RAPIDE
Quick Puff Pastry
Traditional puff pastry takes up to 6 hours to make and needs a lot of resting time, rolling and folding. This method is much quicker and produces pastry that is just as delicious and flaky.
Makes about 550g
250G COLD BUTTER
300G PLAIN FLOUR, PLUS EXTRA FOR DUSTING
1 TSP SALT
Cut the butter into large dice, add them to the flour and salt in a bowl and work the butter and flour together loosely with your fingertips. Don’t overwork it – you must be able to see bits of butter.
Add 160ml of cold water and bring the dough together. Wrap the dough in cling film and leave it to rest in the fridge for 20 minutes.
Roll out the dough on a floured surface to make a rectangle of about 20 x 50cm. Fold the top third down to the centre and the bottom third up and over that. Give the dough a quarter turn and roll, then repeat the folds.
Leave the dough in the fridge for another 20 minutes, then it is ready to use.
