French food doesn’t have to be time-consuming and take all day to prepare. In this chapter you will find plenty of recipes that are quick to make and others that can be prepped in advance and left to cook. I do think that coming together to enjoy a good meal – even if it’s only for 20 minutes – is a vital part of family life.
NOUILLES AUX CREVETTES ET PISTOU
Pasta with Prawns & Pistou
People are often surprised to learn that pasta is a staple in France, eaten on an almost daily basis. Dried egg pasta, such as tagliatelle or fettuccine, is perfect for this recipe, but any shape will do.
Serves 4
16 CHERRY TOMATOES
OLIVE OIL
320G DRIED EGG PASTA
160G COOKED PEELED PRAWNS (ABOUT 12 LARGE PRAWNS)
6 TBSP PISTOU (SEE HERE)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Cut the tomatoes in half and put them in a roasting tin. Season them with salt and pepper and drizzle with a little olive oil, then cook them in the oven for 20 minutes.
Boil the pasta in plenty of salted water until cooked.
Drain the pasta, then tip it back into the pan. Add the prawns and roasted tomatoes, then stir in the pistou and serve at once.
NOUILLES AUX POIVRONS ET TAPENADE
Pasta with Peppers & Tapenade
As I’ve said, the French love their pasta and this simple dish makes a perfect one-pot supper. You can, of course, roast and peel the peppers yourself, but for speed use a jar of piquillo peppers – they’re sweet, smoky and very convenient. Tapenade is a great thing to have in your store-cupboard but again, you can make it yourself if you prefer.
Serves 4
360G DRIED EGG PASTA
120G PIQUILLO PEPPERS, SLICED
2 TBSP TAPENADE (SEE HERE OR SHOP-BOUGHT)
OLIVE OIL
BASIL LEAVES
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions.
Once the pasta is cooked, drain it but do not rinse, then tip it back into the pan. Stir in the sliced peppers, tapenade and a little drizzle of oil, then check the seasoning. Finish with some basil and serve at once.
NOUILLES AUX TRÉSORS DES BOIS
Pasta with Wild Mushrooms
A celebration of wild mushrooms in a bowl, this is a really quick meal. If you can’t get wild mushrooms, use a mix of cultivated such as shiitake, oyster or shimeji.
Serves 4
2 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
400G MIXED MUSHROOMS, CLEANED AND TRIMMED
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 TSP THYME LEAVES
2 TBSP BRANDY
4 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
300G DRIED EGG PASTA, SUCH AS TAGLIATELLE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Heat the oil in a pan and fry the mushrooms until they have taken on a little colour. Add the shallot, garlic and thyme, then season with salt and pepper and take the pan off the heat.
Pick out about a third of the best-looking mushrooms and set them aside. Put the rest of the mushrooms in a blender, add the brandy and crème fraîche, then blend until smooth.
Meanwhile, bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions.
Drain the pasta, but do not rinse it, then tip it back in the pan. Stir in the mushroom purée and check the seasoning. Serve at once, topped with the reserved whole mushrooms.
TAGLIATELLE, SAUCE SARDINE PIMENTÉE
Pasta with Sardine & Chilli Sauce
Every French household has dried pasta and cans of fish in the store-cupboard for making speedy, tasty suppers like this one. It’s not haute cuisine but is none the worse for that.
Serves 2
180G DRIED TAGLIATELLE
2 TBSP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 SHALLOT, CHOPPED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, CHOPPED
1 FRESH RED CHILLI, CHOPPED
125G CAN OF SARDINES IN OIL
BASIL OR GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling, salted water according to the instructions on the packet. Drain, reserving a couple of spoonfuls of the cooking water.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pan and sweat the shallot, garlic and chilli for a few minutes until softened. Add the sardines (with their oil) and crush them with a fork.
Add the drained pasta to the pan, along with the spoonfuls of cooking water, then toss until mixed well and emulsified. Season to taste and serve sprinkled with a little basil or grated Parmesan.
GÂTEAU DE POMME DE TERRE AU JAMBON DE PAYS
Ham & Potato Cake
A hearty, rustic dish, this can be served on its own, with some vegetables, or you can make individual servings in little tartlet tins. In France, I would use Bayonne ham, but Parma or Serrano are also fine.
Serves 4
1KG FLOURY POTATOES (SUCH AS KING EDWARDS OR ROOSTERS), PEELED
2 TBSP BUTTER, PLUS EXTRA FOR GREASING
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND CHOPPED
4 FREE-RANGE EGG YOLKS
GRATING OF NUTMEG
1 BUNCH OF CHIVES
8 THIN SLICES OF AIR-DRIED HAM, SUCH AS BAYONNE (SEE HERE), PARMA OR SERRANO
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cut the potatoes in half (or into quarters if large) and boil them in salted water until just cooked. Pass them through a ricer into a bowl.
Heat the butter in a pan and gently cook the shallot. Add it to the potato with the egg yolks, nutmeg, chives and seasoning, then mix well.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Butter a 28cm flan dish and spoon in the mixture, then roll up the ham slices and place them on top. They don’t need to be too neat but push them in a little so they stay put.
Bake for 40 minutes, then leave to cool down a little before serving.
Leek & Salmon Quiche
This is a lighter, healthier variation on the traditional quiche Lorraine. I have cut back on the cream but there are dishes that just have to contain some – and this is one of them. Serve this freshly cooked and warm but never cold from the fridge, as all the delicate flavours would be lost. You will need a tart ring measuring about 26cm in diameter and 4cm in height.
Serves 6–8
1 TBSP BUTTER, PLUS EXTRA FOR GREASING
200G SHORTCRUST PASTRY (SEE HERE)
1 EGG, BEATEN (FOR EGG WASH)
1 LARGE LEEK (WHITE PART ONLY)
200G HOT-SMOKED SALMON, FLAKED
2 FREE-RANGE EGGS, PLUS 6 YOLKS
100ML DOUBLE CREAM
400ML MILK
1 PINCH OF FRESHLY GROUND NUTMEG
100G GRUYÈRE CHEESE, GRATED (OPTIONAL)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Butter the tart ring. Roll the pastry out to a thickness of 3mm and use it to line the tart ring, making sure it is well pressed into the edges. Trim off any excess pastry.
Prick the base with a fork, then line it with greaseproof paper and fill it with baking beans. Bake the pastry for 15 minutes, then remove the beans and paper. Brush the inside with beaten egg and cook for a further 10 minutes. Remove the tart case from the oven and leave it to cool. Leave the oven on.
Cut the white part of the leek in half lengthways, then across into thin slices. Wash the slices well. Melt the butter in a pan, add the leek slices and cook them gently for 20 minutes until tender. Season, then add the leek to the pastry case, followed by the salmon.
Whisk the eggs, yolks, cream and milk together in a jug and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pull the oven shelf halfway out and place the tin on the shelf. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the pastry case and sprinkle over the cheese, if using. Gently push the shelf back in.
Bake the quiche for 10 minutes, then turn the heat down to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4 and cook for a further 20 minutes. The quiche should have risen a little, have a slight wobble to it and a lovely golden colour. Leave it to cool slightly before slicing.
Tuna Steaks Antiboise
Light, quick and simple, this recipe is great with tuna, but other oily fish such as salmon and sardines also work well, as does red mullet. Antiboise sauce originated in the French city of Antibes and is a variation on sauce vierge, using the flavours of Provence.
Serves 4
2 LEMONS
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
4 X 120–160G TUNA STEAKS
1 TBSP PINE NUTS
2 MEDIUM RED TOMATOES, PEELED, SEEDED AND DICED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TBSP DICED PITTED BLACK OLIVES
1 TBSP CAPERS IN VINEGAR, DRAINED
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
HANDFUL OF BASIL LEAVES, TORN
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Peel the lemons, removing all the white pith, and divide them into segments. Do this over a bowl so you collect any juice.
Rub a little oil over the steaks and season them with salt and pepper. Place a pan over a high heat and when it’s hot, add the tuna steaks. Sear them until they’re nicely browned – 2 minutes should be enough, depending on the thickness of the steaks – then flip them over and cook them for a further 2 minutes. Take the steaks out of the pan and keep them warm.
Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan, then add the tomatoes, lemon segments and juice, garlic, olives, capers, shallot and 2 tablespoons of water and warm everything through. Add the torn basil leaves and serve the sauce warm with the tuna.
CALAMAR BRAISÉ AU VIN ROUGE
Braised Squid in Red Wine
This is a hearty dish that has bags of flavour, but is low in fat, and never fails to impress. Squid should be cooked briefly over a high heat, or for a long time over a low heat until tender, as in this recipe. Serve with boiled potatoes or some Camargue red rice (see here) to soak up the delicious sauce. Ask your fishmonger to clean the squid for you.
Serves 4–6
800G CLEANED SQUID
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 ONIONS, PEELED AND SLICED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
500ML FULL-BODIED RED WINE
3 STAR ANISE, 2 CLOVES, 1 TSP BLACK PEPPERCORNS, TIED UP IN A PIECE OF MUSLIN
2 TBSP SQUID INK
250ML GOOD-QUALITY TOMATO JUICE
250ML CHICKEN STOCK
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
If the squid is large, cut the body into rings. Small ones can be left whole, but separate the tentacles.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Heat the oil in a lidded ovenproof pan or a flameproof casserole dish and cook the sliced onions and garlic over a medium heat until they are starting to colour. Add the squid and cook for 5 minutes, then add half the wine and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry.
Add the remaining wine and the bag of spices, then season with salt and pepper and continue to simmer for 10 minutes. Add the squid ink, tomato juice and stock.
Cover the pan, place it in the oven and cook the squid for 1 hour or until tender. Add the parsley and serve.
MOULES À LA BIÈRE
Mussels with Beer
Mussels are cheap, good to eat and make a great one-pot dish. I like to cook them in beer which gives a fuller flavour and is less acidic than wine. If you like a little sharpness, add a squeeze of lemon at the end. Serve with thick slices of grilled sourdough baguette, maybe rubbed with a little garlic. If you are feeling up to it, pick all the mussels from the shells and gently reheat them in the sauce. Otherwise, I’m happy with the rustic, informal version – as they say in French ‘à la bonne franquette’.
Serves 4
1.6KG MUSSELS
340ML BEER (LIGHT LAGER OR WHEAT OR FRUIT BEER)
2 SHALLOTS, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
2 TSP CRACKED BLACK PEPPER
4 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
Wash the mussels and scrape off the beards and any barnacles. Discard any mussels that don’t close when they’re tapped.
Heat a large pan until very hot, then add the beer, shallots, garlic and cracked pepper, followed by the mussels. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid, then give the mussels a stir after 2 minutes.
The mussels should take 6–7 minutes to cook. Drain them, reserving the liquid. Discard any mussels that don’t open.
Tip the cooking liquor back into the pan and bring it to the boil, then add the crème fraîche and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Add the mussels, then serve.
FILETS DE MAQUEREAUX À LA MOUTARDE
Grilled Mackerel Fillets with Mustard
Mackerel is cheap compared to many kinds of fish and makes an excellent quick meal. No oil is needed here, as the fish is naturally oily, and the mustard provides the seasoning so you don’t have to add any salt either. The sharpness of the mustard works perfectly with the fish and I like to serve this with grilled asparagus and boiled new potatoes.
Serves 4
4 FILLETS OF MACKEREL, PIN-BONED
2 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
Take the fillets and carefully cut 5 or 6 slits, about 5mm deep, in the skin side of each one.
Brush the mustard evenly over the skin of the fillets. Preheat your grill.
Place the fillets, skin-side up, under the hot grill. The skin should blister and start to burn and the fish should take no more than 5 minutes to cook through. Serve the fish at once.
DAURADE ROYALE EN CROÛTE DE SEL
Gilthead Bream Cooked in a Salt Crust
From the northern coast of Brittany all the way round to the Italian border, this way of cooking fish is the first choice for lovers of simplicity and pure flavour. It’s so healthy too, as no fat is needed, although I do like to serve this with a dressing of herbs, olive oil and orange juice. This recipe works with most fish but for me, a wild bream is best.
Serves 2
1 X 600–800G GILTHEAD BREAM (OR COD, LING, HAKE, POLLOCK OR BASS)
1KG COARSE SEA SALT
2 TBSP PLAIN FLOUR
1 TBSP CRACKED BLACK PEPPER
2 EGG WHITES
2 BAY LEAVES, CHOPPED
1 TBSP CHOPPED THYME
1 TBSP CRUSHED FENNEL SEEDS
Herb & Orange Dressing
200ML OLIVE OIL
JUICE OF 1 ORANGE AND ZEST OF ½
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
1 TBSP CHOPPED CHIVES
1 TBSP CHOPPED DILL OR FENNEL TOPS
HANDFUL OF BASIL
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Gut the fish, if this has not already been done by your fishmonger, and snip off the fins but do not scale it.
Mix the salt with the flour, pepper, egg whites, herbs and fennel seeds. Preheat the oven to 240°C/Fan 220°C/Gas 9.
Sprinkle a third of the salt mix on the bottom of a cast-iron dish or a roasting tin. Lay the fish on top, then cover it with the remaining salt and pat it down. The fish should be completely covered.
Cook the fish in the oven for 15 minutes, then remove it and leave it to rest for 3–4 minutes.
To make the dressing, put the oil, juice, zest and herbs in a blender and blitz for 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper. This dressing can be kept in the fridge for up to 5 days, but it will lose its green colour.
Carefully break the salt crust and remove the skin from the fish. Serve the fish with the dressing.
TOMATES FARCIES À L’ANCIENNE
Stuffed Tomatoes
This is a good, economical family dish served in French households up and down the land. My mother used to cook it, so did my grandmother and so do I. It’s best made in the summer when tomatoes are at their best and cheapest. Although this is traditionally accompanied by rice to soak up the juices, you could just serve it with a salad for a lighter meal.
Serves 8
8 LARGE BEEF TOMATOES
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED
2 ONIONS, PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED
100G BREADCRUMBS
1 FREE-RANGE EGG, BEATEN
4 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
600G MINCED BEEF
200G MINCED PORK
OLIVE OIL
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Take the tomatoes and cut a slice, about 5mm thick, from the top of each one. Set these lids aside. Carefully remove all the seeds and water from the inside. Sprinkle a little salt inside the tomatoes, turn them upside down and leave them to drain for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Mix the garlic and onions with the breadcrumbs, egg and parsley. Season the mixture well and then work in the meats until well mixed. Stuff the tomatoes with the filling and put the lids on top. Place the tomatoes in a roasting tin and drizzle them with olive oil. Bake them in the preheated oven for 40 minutes.
Serve with rice or bread to soak up all the juices or just with a salad.
POULET RÔTI AUX HERBES
Roast Chicken with Herbs
A good roast chicken is always a favourite meal and this is a particularly delicious version. A herby stuffing is added under the skin to keep the meat moist while imparting lots of flavour. The stuffing is light, made with fromage blanc and very little butter. A root vegetable gratin (see here) is a good accompaniment for this.
Serves 4–6
JUICE AND ZEST OF 1 LEMON
1 TBSP BUTTER
3 TBSP FROMAGE BLANC (LIGHT CREAM CHEESE)
1 TBSP CHOPPED CHIVES
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
1 HANDFUL OF ROCKET
1 TSP THYME LEAVES
2 TBSP BREADCRUMBS
OLIVE OIL
1 X 1.6KG CHICKEN
100ML WHITE WINE
1 TSP TOMATO PASTE
120ML CHICKEN STOCK
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 240°C/Fan 220°C/Gas 9. Put the lemon juice and zest, butter, fromage blanc, chives, parsley, rocket, thyme and breadcrumbs in a blender or food processor. Season with salt and pepper, then blitz to make a smooth paste.
Lightly oil your fingers. Carefully lift the skin away from the breast and legs of the chicken, then slide your fingers under the skin to loosen it. Fill a piping bag with the stuffing and squeeze this under the skin in an even layer.
You will have some stuffing left, so put this in the cavity of the chicken. Rub the chicken with olive oil and season it, then put it in a roasting tin. Roast the chicken for 20 minutes at the high temperature, then reduce the heat to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and cook for another 30 minutes. Check that the chicken is done by piercing the thickest part of the leg with a skewer – the juices should run clear.
Transfer the chicken to a plate or board, tipping any juices from the cavity into the roasting tin. Cover the chicken with foil and leave it to rest for 20 minutes.
Place the roasting tin on the hob and simmer the cooking juices. Add the wine and tomato paste, then simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the stock and reduce again until the sauce is syrupy. Serve with the chicken.
POULET BASQUAISE
Basque-Style Chicken
This is a really good simple supper – everything you need in one pot. I like to make it with chicken legs, as they are more flavourful than breast and less likely to be dry. Espelette chillies are grown in the Basque region in southwest France and have a beautifully mild, fragrant taste that is perfect for this dish. If you can’t find any, just use other chillies to taste. This is a dish that’s even better when made in advance and then reheated.
Serves 4
12 NEW POTATOES, SCRUBBED
4 CHICKEN LEGS
1 TBSP SMOKED PAPRIKA
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 RED, GREEN OR YELLOW PEPPERS, HALVED AND SEEDED
2 ONIONS, PEELED AND THINLY SLICED
6 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
3 BAY LEAVES
2 THYME SPRIGS
200ML WHITE WINE
1 TBSP PIMENT D’ESPELETTE (SEE HERE) OR CHILLI FLAKES
4 LARGE TOMATOES, PEELED AND DICED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cut the potatoes in half, put them in a pan of salted water and bring to the boil. Cook them for 10 minutes, then drain and set aside.
Joint the chicken legs into thighs and drumsticks – or ask your butcher to do this for you. Season them with salt and smoked paprika. Heat the oil in an ovenproof pan or a flameproof casserole dish and fry the chicken pieces until golden brown on both sides. Remove them from the pan and set them aside.
Slice the peppers into long strips and fry them in the same pan until tender, then add the onions, garlic and par-boiled potatoes. Cook them over a medium heat for 5–6 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Tie the bay leaves and thyme sprigs together and add them to the pan along with the wine and piment d’espelette or chilli flakes. Add extra chilli if you like your food really spicy.
Add the tomatoes, then put the chicken and any juices back into the pan and stir gently. Put a lid on the pan or cover it tightly with foil and place it in the oven for 30 minutes or until the chicken juices run clear. Check the seasoning, then serve or set aside to enjoy later.
Roast Rabbit with Thyme
Rustic family fare, this is the easiest dish to prepare and produces beautiful golden-brown nuggets of meat. Just bring it all to the table and let everyone chew on the bones – very French ‘finger food’! Good served with Tomates à la Provençale (see here).
Serves 4
1 WHOLE RABBIT
2 TBSP THYME LEAVES
4–6 TBSP OLIVE OIL
12 SMALL ONIONS OR SHALLOTS, PEELED
16 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Ask your butcher to joint the rabbit, cutting the legs into 2 pieces, the saddle into 3 and the shoulders and front into 2. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Put the rabbit in a large roasting tin and season with salt and pepper and a tablespoon of the thyme leaves. Add the oil and toss until the rabbit is well coated. Place the tin in the oven and roast for 20 minutes.
Add the onions or shallots and the garlic, then stir well and roast for another 15 minutes, stirring again halfway through. Add the remaining thyme before serving.
SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE À LA DIABLE
Devilled Chicken Breasts
The traditional version of this is deep-fried, but I prefer to bake the chicken breasts for a lighter result. I serve this with a peppery watercress salad for a quick and easy meal.
Serves 4
1 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 TSP CAYENNE PEPPER, OR MORE TO TASTE
4 SKINLESS CHICKEN BREASTS
1 FREE-RANGE EGG
60G BREADCRUMBS
OLIVE OIL
SALT
Watercress Salad
240G WATERCRESS, WASHED
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND SLICED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
3 TBSP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Mix the mustard with the cayenne and spread the mixture all over the chicken breasts, then leave them to marinate in the fridge for an hour. Preheat the oven to 210°C /Fan 190°C/Gas 6½.
Beat the egg in a shallow bowl and season it with a little salt. Spread the breadcrumbs on a plate. Dip each chicken breast in the egg, then into the breadcrumbs, pressing it down so the crumbs stick to the meat.
Place the coated breasts on an oiled baking tray, then drizzle a little oil over them. Bake them in the oven for 15 minutes, then leave to rest for 5 minutes.
For the salad, put the watercress in a bowl, then mix the remaining ingredients together to make the dressing. Dress the salad and serve it with the chicken breasts.
Pork Chops with Prunes
Prunes go well with pork and this is a quick dish to make. When you’re buying chops, ask for those from nearer the neck, which tend to be more marbled with fat so not dry. Some cooks like to add cream to the sauce, but I think it’s lighter and fresher without.
Serves 4
100G PITTED PRUNES
1 TSP CASTER SUGAR
½ CINNAMON STICK
1 STAR ANISE
200ML RED WINE
1 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
4 PORK CHOPS
2 TBSP BRANDY
125ML BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Place the prunes in a pan with the sugar, spices and red wine. Simmer them for 10 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat, cover it and set it aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Heat the oil in an ovenproof pan, season the chops and cook them over a high heat until brown on both sides. Place them in the oven for 10 minutes or until cooked through, depending on the thickness of the chops. Remove them and leave them to rest in a warm place.
To make the sauce, pour the brandy into the pan and add 200ml of the liquid from the prunes. Boil until reduced by half, then add the stock and continue to simmer until you have a syrupy sauce.
Reheat the prunes in the remaining wine and spices and serve the chops with the sauce and prunes.
PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF
Beef Olives
A cheap and filling French classic, paupiettes are similar to a British dish known as beef olives and are a good way of making a piece of meat go a little further. My version is made with beef, but you can also use veal or lamb. If you do use lamb, choose a merguez sausage. Most good butchers should be able to supply caul fat.
Serves 4
1 PIECE OF RUMP OR SIRLOIN (ABOUT 320G)
240G SAUSAGE MEAT
120G CAUL FAT
OLIVE OIL
1 ONION, SLICED
12 CHESTNUT MUSHROOMS, SLICED
125ML MADEIRA
6 SAGE LEAVES
300ML BEEF OR VEAL STOCK
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cutting against the grain of the meat, cut the beef into 4 even slices. Place each slice between 2 sheets of cling film and, using a rolling pin, flatten it out to a thickness of about 3mm.
Divide the sausage meat between the slices and roll each one up. Wrap each one in a piece of caul, then secure with butchers’ string.
Heat a little oil in a pan and sear the paupiettes until brown, then remove them and set aside. Add the onion to the pan and cook until browned, then add the mushrooms. Cook them for 5 minutes then pour in the Madeira. When that has evaporated, add the sage and the stock.
Lightly season the stock and put the paupiettes back in the pan. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover loosely with foil and cook for 15 minutes. Take out the paupiettes and boil the sauce rapidly until syrupy. Serve the paupiettes with the sauce. A root vegetable boulangère (see here) is a good accompaniment.
Beef Patties Topped with Eggs
Contrary to popular belief, this excellent dish is not made of horsemeat. The term ‘à cheval’ means on horseback, and indicates that the patties are served with a fried egg on top. Fresh beef patties are sold in most butchers in France, but you can make them yourself very easily. If making your own mince at home, use rump. I like to include a little fat in my patties, but you can go as lean as you like. This makes a great speedy supper served with a green salad and some sautéed potatoes (see here).
Serves 4
2 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
1 LARGE ONION, PEELED AND SLICED
1 TSP SUGAR
2 TSP RED WINE VINEGAR
650G MINCED BEEF
1 TBSP BUTTER
4 FREE-RANGE EGGS
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Heat a tablespoon of the oil in a pan, add the onion and sugar and season with salt and pepper. Cook the onion over a medium heat until it’s nicely caramelised, then stir in the vinegar. Remove the onion from the pan and set it aside.
Season the beef and shape it into 4 neat patties. Heat the remaining oil in the pan. Sear the patties on both sides to brown them well, then continue to cook for 6–8 minutes for pink meat.
Heat the butter in a separate frying pan and crack in the eggs. Cover the pan with a lid or some foil to create a little steam and cook the eggs gently until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny.
Serve the patties topped with some caramelised onion and a fried egg.
CHOU-FLEUR ET JAMBON AU GRATIN
Ham & Cauliflower Cheese
An excellent supper dish, this can be prepared well in advance and then finished off in the oven when you’re nearly ready to eat.
Serves 6
1 CAULIFLOWER, SPLIT INTO FLORETS
60G BUTTER
60G PLAIN FLOUR
1 LITRE MILK
GRATING OF NUTMEG
6 SLICES OF HAM
120G CHEESE (SUCH AS COMTE OR GRUYÈRE), GRATED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Bring a pan of water to the boil, add the cauliflower florets and cook for 10 minutes, then drain them well.
Melt the butter in a pan, then stir in the flour and cook over a very low heat for 5 minutes, Don’t allow the mixture to brown. Whisk in the milk, turn up the heat and bring the sauce to the boil. Season well with a grating of nutmeg and some salt and pepper, then set the pan aside. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Cut the ham into thin strips. Layer the cauliflower and ham in an ovenproof dish, then pour over the white sauce and sprinkle the cheese on top. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes, then pop the dish under the grill to brown the top more if you like. Serve with salad.
