LÉGUMES, LÉGUMINEUSES ET CÉRÉALES
Many people think of French food as protein led – meat or fish with vegetables simply as a garnish. That may still be true of some restaurant food, but the modern way is for vegetables, grains and pulses to be a hugely important part of the diet. There is a great market culture in France and people like buying seasonal produce that’s been grown locally and picked when at its best.
CAVIAR D’AUBERGINE FUMÉE
Smoked Aubergine Purée
Aubergine dishes can be rather heavy and oily, but cooking the aubergines whole like this means that you don’t need lots of oil but the result is still smooth and delicious. Serve the purée with crudités or croutons as a snack or an appetiser.
Serves 6–8
4 AUBERGINES
8 GARLIC CLOVES, WHOLE AND UNPEELED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
1 TSP PIMENT D’ESPELETTE (SEE HERE) OR CHILLI FLAKES
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 SPRING ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
SALT
Place the whole aubergines, without any oil, in an ovenproof cast-iron pan or on a griddle.
Place the pan over a high heat and roast the aubergines until the skins are charred, turning them regularly so they blacken on all sides. This gives them a good smoky flavour. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Add the garlic cloves and put the pan in the oven for 20 minutes. Remove and leave the aubergines and garlic to cool.
Cut the aubergines in half and scoop out all the flesh, scraping the skins to remove as much as possible. Peel the garlic.
Put the aubergine flesh and garlic in a food processor, add the lemon juice, piment d’espelette or chilli flakes and the oil, then season with salt. Blitz to a smooth texture, then tip the mixture into a bowl and stir in the spring onion.
Stuffed Aubergines Provençal
A sauce made of red, yellow and green peppers keeps this baked aubergine dish really juicy and tasty but still light, as you only need a small amount of oil. Great on its own or served with a spoonful of pistou (see here).
Serves 4
2 MEDIUM AUBERGINES
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 RED PEPPERS, CUT IN HALF
1 YELLOW PEPPER, CUT IN HALF
1 GREEN PEPPER, CUT IN HALF
1 TSP FENNEL SEEDS
1 TSP THYME LEAVES
SQUEEZE OF LEMON JUICE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Cut the aubergines in half, lengthways, then score the flesh about 1cm deep in a criss-cross pattern.
Cut the garlic into thick slices and push these into the cuts in the aubergine halves. Brush the cut sides of the aubergine with a little of the oil.
Heat a pan on the hob. Season the aubergines well and place them cut-side down in the hot pan. Once the flesh is golden, turn the aubergines and place them cut-side up in an ovenproof dish. Put them in the oven and bake for 30 minutes.
Put the peppers, skin-side up, under a hot grill until blackened and charred. Leave them to cool, then peel off the skins and cut the flesh into strips about 5mm thick. Discard the seeds and any white membrane.
Heat the remaining oil in a pan and fry the strips of pepper, then add the fennel seeds, thyme and lemon juice. Season and spread the mixture over the aubergines. Serve hot or warm.
Tomato Coulis
I make loads of this in the summer, when tomatoes are at their cheapest and best, and serve it with dishes such as grilled fish or meat. Choose tomatoes that are really ripe and flavoursome for the best results and freeze some coulis in little tubs or bags for the winter months.
Makes 1 litre
1KG RIPE TOMATOES
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TSP TOMATO PASTE
1 THYME SPRIG
1 BAY LEAF
2 TSP SUGAR
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Remove the stalks from the tomatoes, cut the tomatoes in half and squeeze out the seeds. It doesn’t matter if a few seeds remain, but you do want to get rid of excess moisture. Roughly chop the flesh.
Heat the olive oil in a pan and gently cook the chopped garlic and shallot for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Don’t let them brown. Add the tomato paste and herbs to the pan, cook for a further 2–3 minutes, then add the fresh tomatoes and sugar. Season with salt and pepper.
Cover the pan and leave to simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the herbs, then blitz the mixture to a fine purée in a food processor. If you want a really fine coulis, pass it through a sieve.
ARTICHAUTS FARCIS
Stuffed Artichokes
Globe artichokes do take a little while to prepare but they’re well worth the effort. These are stuffed with ham and eggs to make a light and elegant dish.
Serves 4
4 LARGE GLOBE ARTICHOKES
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
8 THIN SLICES OF BAYONNE HAM (SEE HERE) OR OTHER AIR-DRIED HAM
4 SMALL FREE-RANGE EGGS
4 TBSP DOUBLE CREAM
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Prepare the artichokes. Snap the stalk off each one and pull off the first leaves from the base. Using a knife, trim off 2 layers of leaves and cut the base flat.
Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add salt. Then add the artichokes and lemon juice and cook for 25 minutes or until a skewer easily pierces the centre of the artichoke. Drain the artichokes and turn them bottom up to dry and cool.
When the artichokes are cold, carefully pull out the centre leaves to reveal the choke, then remove the choke from each one with a spoon. Run the artichokes under a tap to rinse them clean and get rid of any remaining bits of choke.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Line the cavity of an artichoke with 2 slices of ham, then carefully crack in an egg and add a tablespoon of cream and a little black pepper. Repeat with the remaining artichokes and ingredients.
Place the filled artichokes in a roasting tin and add just-boiled water to a depth of 1cm. Bake the artichokes for 20 minutes – the egg yolks should still be runny. Serve immediately.
ASPERGES GRILLÉES AUX NOISETTES
Grilled Asparagus with Hazelnuts
A lovely vegetable dish to serve as a starter or with grilled fish, this is a real celebration of asparagus. It’s best made with medium-sized green spears.
Serves 4
1 RED ONION, PEELED
28 GREEN ASPARAGUS SPEARS
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
100G HAZELNUTS, SKINNED
4 TBSP HAZELNUT OIL
1 TBSP RED WINE VINEGAR
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Slice the onion into very fine rings. Place the rings in a bowl of cold water and leave them to soak for 20 minutes, then drain. This removes the harsh raw flavour of the onion.
Snap off the woody base of each asparagus spear and peel the stems if you think it necessary. Toss the asparagus in the oil to coat all over, then season with a little salt and pepper.
Heat a griddle pan or a barbecue and cook the asparagus on all sides until charred and tender. It shouldn’t take more than about 5 minutes – the asparagus should still have a little bite. Set it aside and keep it warm.
Put the hazelnuts in a dry pan and cook them over a medium heat until golden. Keep them moving, as they will burn quite easily otherwise.
Once the nuts are toasted, place them in a food processor and add the hazelnut oil and vinegar. Season well and blitz to make a coarse paste.
Drizzle some of the hazelnut mixture over the asparagus and scatter the drained onion slices on top. Serve warm.
ASPERGES, TOMATES ET ARTICHAUTS
Asparagus, Tomatoes & Artichokes
This is a recipe to make in spring when the first asparagus and baby artichokes make their appearance. Delicious and full of goodness, it celebrates the coming of a new season. Best enjoyed as a stand-alone dish.
Serves 6
12 BABY ARTICHOKES (POIVRADE OR VIOLET)
3 TBSP OLIVE OIL, PLUS EXTRA FOR DRIZZLING
1 SMALL ONION, CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, CHOPPED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
60ML DRY WHITE WINE
250ML VEGETABLE STOCK
200ML TOMATO PULP (CANNED CHOPPED TOMATOES OR PASSATA)
8 SALTED ANCHOVIES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
600G GREEN ASPARAGUS SPEARS
BUNCH OF CHIVES, SNIPPED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Peel the artichokes and cut them into quarters. Then cut off the excess hard leaves and remove the choke from each one.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a frying pan and fry the artichokes until they are lightly coloured. Add a little more oil, then reduce the heat, add the onion and garlic and cook them until soft.
Add the lemon juice and wine to the pan, partially cover with a lid and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Add the stock and tomato pulp and simmer for another 10 minutes, then add the anchovies and a generous amount of black pepper.
Snap off the woody base of each asparagus spear and peel the stems if you think it necessary. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the asparagus until it is tender and the point of a knife goes in easily. Cut each asparagus spear in half and add them to the pan with the artichokes and tomato, then reheat gently.
Serve drizzled with a little oil and garnished with snipped chives.
TOMATES À LA PROVENÇALE
Baked Tomatoes Provençal
This is my go-to accompaniment dish through the summer and autumn when tomatoes are at their best. I like to use Marmande or Oxheart but any kind of tomato will do. In the traditional recipe the tomatoes are just baked with the topping, but in my new version I caramelise them first to concentrate the wonderful flavour.
Serves 4
4 MEDIUM TOMATOES
SUGAR
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
3 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TBSP BREADCRUMBS
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
1 TBSP THYME LEAVES
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Cut the tomatoes in half and sprinkle them with a little sugar.
Heat a tablespoon of oil in a non-stick pan. When the pan is very hot, place the tomatoes cut-side down in the pan. Do not move them. Leave them to caramelise for about 3 minutes, then remove them and place them cut-side up in an ovenproof dish. Season with salt and black pepper.
Mix the garlic, breadcrumbs, parsley and thyme together and spread the mixture over the tomatoes. Drizzle over the remaining oil and bake the tomatoes in the oven for 15 minutes.
ENDIVE RÔTIE AU CITRON
Seared Chicory with Lemon
I like the slightly bitter taste of chicory, or endive as it also called, and it goes well with the sweet and sharp juices in this recipe. Serve this hot or cold, as an accompaniment to fish or as a stand-alone dish.
Serves 4
1 LARGE LEMON
4 LARGE HEADS OF CHICORY
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
JUICE OF 1 ORANGE
2 TSP SUGAR
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY (OPTIONAL)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Peel the lemon as thinly as possible and cut the peel into thin matchsticks. Put them in a small saucepan and add cold water to cover, then bring the water to the boil. Drain and repeat. Cut the lemon flesh into segments, holding it over a bowl to collect any juice.
Cut each head of chicory into quarters lengthways. Sear them in a very hot frying pan with a small amount of the oil until golden on all sides. Remove them from the pan and set aside.
Place the strips of lemon peel in the frying pan. Add the orange juice, any juice from the lemon and the sugar, place the pan over a medium heat and simmer for a couple of minutes.
Add the seared chicory and the remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. Simmer the chicory while basting with the juice and oil until the liquid is reduced and sticky. Fold in the lemon segments and chopped parsley, if using, and serve hot or cold.
POMMES NOUVELLES SAUTÉES
Sautéed New Potatoes
These potatoes are not fried, but sautéed and the way I cook them you really don’t need a lot of fat. It’s all about temperature control. You brown the potatoes in oil first over a high heat, then cook them more gently over a lower heat to give flavour and crispness. These are good with fish or meat or just on their own!
Serves 4
240G NEW POTATOES
8 GARLIC CLOVES, UNPEELED
GOOD PINCH OF SALT
1 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
1 TBSP BUTTER
1 THYME SPRIG
Scrub the potatoes well and place them in a pan with the garlic cloves and a good pinch of salt. Add water to cover, then bring to the boil and simmer the potatoes for 2–3 minutes.
Drain the potatoes and when they are cool enough to handle, cut them in half. Set the garlic aside.
Heat the oil in a frying pan and cook the potatoes over a high heat until browned, then flip them over. Turn the heat down and add the garlic, butter and thyme. Cook the potatoes for 15 minutes or until tender, tossing them frequently.
Pearl Barley with Baby Turnips
Pearl barley is a wholesome and nutritious carb with lots of fibre so it keeps you full for longer! This dish is a healthy bowl of goodness and delicious just on its own. I love that you can use the whole turnip, including the leaves.
Serves 4
400G PEARL BARLEY
1.2 LITRES VEGETABLE STOCK
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 ONION, PEELED AND CHOPPED
16 BABY TURNIPS WITH TOPS
1 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
6 ANCHOVY FILLETS
150ML OLIVE OIL
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Rinse the barley, place it in a pan with the stock and add the garlic, onion and a little seasoning. Bring the stock to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes by which time the barley should be tender. If it is still a little firm, add some hot water and continue to cook until done.
Trim off the turnip tops and set them aside, then wash the turnips. Bring a big pan of salted water to the boil, add the turnips and cook them until tender.
Wash the turnip tops and place half of them in a blender. Add the mustard, anchovy fillets, olive oil and 4 ice cubes, then blitz to a rough pesto-like paste. The ice helps the mixture to emulsify and keep the lovely fresh green colour.
Serve the barley and turnips in deep plates and drizzle the turnip top mixture on top.
CANELÉS DE LÉGUMES
Vegetable Cakes
These savoury versions of the traditional little Bordeaux cakes known as canelés are a real treat. They’re packed with vegetables, so reasonably healthy, and they keep well for a couple of days. I like to make small ones for snacks or larger ones to serve as a meal. The traditional moulds are copper and need to be well buttered, but modern silicone moulds are much more practical and don’t need any greasing. You can also use muffin tins for the large canelés.
Makes 10 big or 30 small
560ML MILK
50G BUTTER
160G CARROTS, PEELED AND DICED
GRATING OF NUTMEG
PINCHES OF GROUND CAYENNE, SALT AND SAFFRON THREADS
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
60G PARSNIP, PEELED AND DICED
60G SPRING ONIONS, DICED
60G COURGETTE, DICED
2 FREE-RANGE EGGS, PLUS 2 YOLKS
20G SUGAR
80G PLAIN FLOUR
SALT
Put the milk in a pan with the butter and 100g of the diced carrots. Add a grating of nutmeg and generous pinches of cayenne pepper, salt and saffron. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes until the carrots are done. Tip everything into a blender and blitz until smooth, then set the mixture aside to cool.
Heat the oil in a pan and gently cook the remaining carrots and the rest of the vegetables until tender. Season them with a little salt, then leave to cool. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Whisk the eggs, yolks and sugar together and add a couple of tablespoons of the milk and carrot purée to help loosen the mixture. Add the flour and mix well. Finally, fold in the cooked vegetables and the rest of the milk and carrot purée.
Grease your moulds if necessary – see above. Pour the mixture into the moulds and place them in the oven. For small canelés, cook at 240°C/Fan 220°C/Gas 9 for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 160°C/Fan 140°C/Gas 3 for another 20 minutes. For large ones, cook for 15 minutes at 240°C/Fan 220°C/Gas 9 and then 20 minutes at 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Turn the cakes out of the moulds and serve warm or cold.
Jerusalem Artichoke & Potato Gratin
I like to adapt the classic potato boulangère by adding other root vegetables – in this instance, Jerusalem artichokes. A wholesome and filling dish, this is easy to prepare and will keep in the fridge for a week. Good with chicken and red meat.
Serves 6
1 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
2 ONIONS, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
2 TBSP BUTTER
500G WAXY POTATOES, PEELED AND SLICED 5MM THICK
800G JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, PEELED AND SLICED 5MM THICK
4 BAY LEAVES
350ML WHITE CHICKEN STOCK
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Heat the oil in a pan and gently cook the onions and garlic until soft. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Lightly grease an ovenproof dish with some of the butter. Add layer of potatoes and artichoke slices, followed by a couple of bay leaves and half the onions. Season with salt and pepper. Repeat the layers, then pour over the stock. Press the layers down and dot with the remaining butter.
Cover the dish with foil and cook in the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Turn the heat down to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6, remove the foil and cook for a further 45 minutes.
Camargue Red Rice
Red rice, grown on the wetlands of the Camargue in southern France, makes a pleasant change from other rice and has an appealing flavour and chewy texture. It lends itself to all cooking styles and is good for salads. This rice is also said to be particularly nutritious.
Serves 4
3 TBSP OLIVE OIL
160G CAMARGUE RED RICE
360ML VEGETABLE STOCK
2 GARLIC CLOVES, FLATTENED WITH A KNIFE
1 ROSEMARY SPRIG
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in an ovenproof pan. Add the rice and cook it for 3–4 minutes over a medium heat, stirring well to coat all the grains with oil. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Add the stock, garlic and rosemary. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and bake the rice in the oven for 60 minutes.
Remove the pan from the oven and set it aside for 10 minutes with the lid on. Then remove the garlic and rosemary, season well and drizzle over the remaining oil. Serve hot or cold.
Crushed Potatoes
This is an excellent accompaniment for a roast – it’s not just potatoes but packed full of green goodness as well. Serve with a slice of ham and it’s a meal.
Serves 4
500G WAXY POTATOES, SUCH AS CHARLOTTES
100G BABY SPINACH LEAVES, WASHED
12 WILD GARLIC LEAVES, IF AVAILABLE, OR 2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 TBSP SNIPPED CHIVES
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Wash the potatoes and cook them in a pan of salted water until tender, then drain them and peel off the skins. Put them back in the pan.
Put the spinach in a food processor with the garlic, crème fraîche, olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Blitz until smooth.
Add the spinach mixture to the potatoes and mix with a fork, crushing the potatoes but keeping them fairly chunky. Warm everything through gently, then add the chives and parsley and serve.
LENTILLES À LA MAROCAINE
Lentils Moroccan Style
French cookery has been much influenced by North African cuisine and this is a perfect example. This is a dish that’s easy to make and is full of warmth and goodness.
Serves 4
240G BROWN LENTILS
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 MEDIUM ONION, PEELED AND CHOPPED
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 TBSP RAS-EL-HANOUT
1 TSP CUMIN SEEDS
4 LARGE TOMATOES, PEELED, SEEDED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
ABOUT 350ML VEGETABLE STOCK
2 TBSP FLAKED ALMONDS
1 BUNCH OF CORIANDER, CHOPPED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Rinse the lentils and check them over for stones, then put them in a large pan and add enough water to cover. Bring to the boil and cook the lentils for 15 minutes, then drain them and set aside.
Rinse and dry the pan, then heat the oil and add the onion and garlic. Cook them gently until tender, stirring often, but don’t let them brown.
Add the spices to the pan and continue to cook for 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes and the drained lentils. Season and add enough vegetable stock to come level with the contents of the pan. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, toast the almonds in a dry pan.
When the lentils are ready, add the coriander, then tip everything into a serving bowl and top with the toasted flaked almonds.
Rice with Peppers, Basque Style
This is a hearty dish that makes an excellent accompaniment to grilled fish or can be served on its own, hot or cold. Do use a proper Spanish short-grain rice such as Calasparra or Bomba.
Serves 6
3 TBSP OLIVE OIL, PLUS EXTRA TO SERVE
2 ONIONS, PEELED AND SLICED
3 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND SLICED
6 PLUM TOMATOES, PEELED, SEEDED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED
3 RED PEPPERS, SEEDED AND THINLY SLICED
1 TSP THYME LEAVES
2 TSP SMOKED PAPRIKA
2 TSP PIMENT D’ESPELETTE (SEE HERE), OR CHILLI FLAKES
400G SPANISH SHORT-GRAIN RICE
800ML VEGETABLE STOCK
4 TBSP COARSELY CHOPPED PARSLEY
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Heat the olive oil in a large ovenproof pan, then add the onions and garlic and cook them gently until soft.
Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, then add the peppers, thyme, paprika and piment d’espelette or chilli flakes (add more chilli if you like your food spicy), followed by the rice. Continue to cook for another 5 minutes while stirring to coat the rice with the tomatoes and spices.
Pour in the stock, season and bring to the boil. Cover the pan, place it in the oven and cook for 25–30 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork, then serve garnished with parsley and a little extra oil.
LENTILLES DU PUY
Green Lentils
Considered the best of all lentils, Puy lentils are grown in the region around Le Puy in south-central France. They have a fine flavour and hold their shape well when cooked so they’re good for salads as well as soups and other dishes. They are traditionally served with sausages in France but they make a good meal on their own too.
Serves 6
250G GREEN PUY LENTILS
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
80G SMOKED BACON OR VENTRÉCHE (SEE HERE), DICED
1 CELERY STICK, DICED
1 CARROT, PEELED AND DICED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, CRUSHED
1 ONION, PEELED
2 CLOVES
1 BOUQUET GARNI (SEE HERE)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
To serve (optional)
BUTTER OR OIL
FRENCH DRESSING (SEE HERE)
Rinse the lentils in cold water and check them over for stones. Warm the oil in a pan, add the bacon or ventréche and cook it over a medium heat until just starting to brown. Add the celery, carrot and garlic and cook gently for 5–6 minutes, stirring often.
Stud the onion with the cloves and place it in the pan, then add the bouquet garni and lentils.
Pour in 600ml of water and bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a gentle simmer. Skim any scum off the surface, then partially cover the pan and leave the lentils to simmer for 30 minutes. They should be tender but still holding their shape.
Remove the onion and bouquet garni, then season with salt and pepper.
If serving the lentils as a vegetable, stir in a little butter or olive oil to taste. If serving as a salad, drain off any excess liquid and dress with a classic French dressing.
FLAGEOLETS AUX OIGNONS NOUVEAUX
Flageolet Beans with New Season Onions
Flageolet are my favourite beans. The canned versions are fine but when cooked from dried, flageolet are something else and they keep well in the fridge for up to 10 days. Serve these beans hot with roast lamb or grilled sausages, blitz them into a soup, or leave them to cool and mix them into a salad. Versatile, delicious and inexpensive.
Serves 4
250G DRIED FLAGEOLET BEANS
1 CARROT, PEELED AND CUT INTO BATONS
1 ONION, PEELED AND STUDDED WITH 2 CLOVES
2 BAY LEAVES
8 NEW SEASON ONIONS WITH GREEN TOPS (OR 12 SPRING ONIONS)
2 TBSP BUTTER
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Soak the beans overnight, then drain them and put them in a large pan with the carrot, clove-studded onion and the bay leaves. Cover with cold water by about 3cm, bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes.
Add the white part of the onions, cover and simmer for a further 45 minutes. You may need to top up the pan with some boiling water.
When the beans are tender, take the pan off the heat, add some of the sliced green part of the onions and mix in the butter. Season well and serve.
TARTE À LA TOMATE
Tomato Tart
Delicious any time, this tart is a favourite of mine in the summer months. The richness of the pastry is offset by the light filling and the mustard adds extra flavour. Don’t be tempted to leave out the polenta – it soaks up any juices so keeps the pastry crisp.
Serves 6
8–12 TOMATOES (A MIXTURE OF COLOURS IS NICE)
200G PUFF PASTRY
2 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 TBSP POLENTA
1 TBSP THYME LEAVES
ABOUT 1 TBSP GOOD OLIVE OIL
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Slice the tomatoes 5mm thick and lay them out on a rack. Sprinkle a little salt over them and leave them for 20 minutes to render excess water. Pat the slices dry with a clean tea towel or some kitchen paper.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Roll out the puff pastry to fit a 26cm flan ring. Prick the pastry with a fork, then line it with greaseproof paper and fill it with baking beans.
Blind-bake the tart case for 20 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and bake for another 10 minutes. Remove the tart case from the oven. Leave the oven on.
Spread the mustard over the base of the tart, then sprinkle over the polenta. Arrange the tomato slices in the tart, then season with a little pepper and the thyme leaves.
Drizzle the olive oil over the tomatoes and bake the tart for 20 minutes. Serve hot, warm or cold.
TARTES FINES AUX PETIT POIS
Pea & Mint Tarts
Light and delicious, brik pastry is Tunisian in origin, but has become a staple ingredient in France. It is similar to filo but more robust and easier to work with. Using brik instead of shortcrust or puff in these tarts makes them lighter and less calorific than the traditional versions.
Serves 6
OLIVE OIL
12 SHEETS OF BRIK PASTRY
320G PEAS (FROZEN ARE FINE)
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED
ZEST AND JUICE OF 1 LEMON
2 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
2 SPRING ONIONS, SLICED
BUNCH OF MINT, CHOPPED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Brush 4 tartlet tins, 8cm in diameter, with a little olive oil. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Cut out 12 circles of brik pastry measuring about 10cm in diameter – you can use a side plate as a template. Layer 3 sheets into each tin, brushing each layer with a little olive oil. Add some baking paper and baking beans to each tin to weigh the pastry down. Bake the pastry cases for 20 minutes until they are crisp and browned. Leave them to cool, then take them out of the tins.
Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the peas and the garlic and bring the water back to the boil. (If you are using fresh peas, you might need to cook them for a little longer until they’re tender.) Drain and refresh the peas in a bowl of iced water, then drain them again.
Put half the peas with the garlic in a blender and add the lemon zest, crème fraîche and 4 tablespoons of water. Season with salt and pepper, then blitz until smooth. Spoon the mixture into the tart cases.
Dress the remaining peas with the lemon juice, sliced spring onions, mint and a tablespoon of olive oil and season. Divide the peas between the tarts, then serve.
