The dishes in this chapter are slightly more elaborate than the family meals but they’re still not the rich French cuisine of the old days. These are recipes for weekends, when you may have time to spend longer in the kitchen and you’re able to linger over a special meal and perhaps a glass or two of wine.
TARTELETTES DE CREVETTES THERMIDOR
Shrimp Tartlets Thermidor
Lobster thermidor is one of the great French classics, but it is expensive and a fiddle to make. My version is lighter and cheaper, using shrimp or prawns and no flour in the sauce, but it still has great flavour. You need 4 tartlet tins, 11cm in diameter and 2cm deep.
Serves 6
180G SHORTCRUST PASTRY (SEE HERE)
½ TBSP BUTTER
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND VERY FINELY CHOPPED
80ML DRY WHITE WINE
80ML FISH STOCK
½ TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
2 FREE-RANGE EGG YOLKS
100ML WHIPPING CREAM
2 TBSP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE
1 TBSP TARRAGON LEAVES
120G COOKED PEELED SHRIMP OR SMALL PRAWNS
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Roll out the pastry and use it to line the tins. Prick the pastry with a fork, then cover with greaseproof paper and fill with baking beans.
Blind-bake the tartlet cases for 20 minutes until the pastry is light brown and cooked through. Remove them from the oven and take out the paper and beans.
Melt the butter in a pan and gently cook the shallot until soft. Add the wine and boil until it has reduced by half, then add the stock and reduce again by half. Take the pan off the heat and leave to cool slightly, then mix in the mustard and egg yolks. Leave to cool for another 5 minutes.
Whisk the whipping cream until it forms peaks, then fold it into the cooled sauce with the grated Parmesan and the tarragon.
Turn the oven up to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7. Divide the shrimp or prawns between the tartlets, then pour in the sauce. Bake the tartlets in the oven for 10 minutes. Serve at once.
GIGOT DE LOTTE PIQUÉ À L’AIL ET ROMARIN
Monkfish Cooked in the Style of Lamb
This is an impressive dish but very easy and quick to cook. You do need a nice chunky piece of monkfish, though, for the recipe to work properly, so talk to your fishmonger. The sauce is full of flavour but not rich – I’ve kept the amount of cream down and there’s not a lot of oil. Lovely served with sautéed new potatoes (see here).
Serves 4
4 LARGE GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
1 LARGE MONKFISH TAIL (ABOUT 1.25KG), BONE IN, SKINNED AND TRIMMED
1 ROSEMARY SPRIG
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 LARGE SHALLOT, PEELED AND CHOPPED
150ML DRY WHITE WINE
4 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cut each clove of garlic into 4 slices. Cut little incisions in the fish and push a sliver of garlic and a few rosemary needles into each one. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Rub the fish with olive oil and season it well. Heat a tablespoon of oil in a roasting tin on the hob, add the fish and sear it on all sides. Place the tin in the preheated oven and roast the fish for 15 minutes. Remove and take the fish out of the tin, then set it aside to rest in a warm place for 10 minutes.
While the fish is resting, make the sauce. Place the roasting tin over a high heat, add the shallot and cook until it’s just starting to colour. Add the wine and any juices that have run from the resting fish and boil for 2–3 minutes. Add the crème fraîche, then bring the sauce back to the boil and check the seasoning.
Take the fish to the table to carve into portions and serve it with the sauce.
MERLANS EN COLÈRE
Angry Whiting
I think deep-fried whiting is a real treat and the tomato compote is lighter than the tartare sauce usually served with it. The whiting are ‘angry’ because they are chasing their tails! Ask the fishmonger to scale the fish and remove the gills.
Serves 4
4 WHITING (ABOUT 250G EACH), SCALED AND GILLS REMOVED
500ML MILK
BUNCH OF CURLY PARSLEY
PLAIN FLOUR
VEGETABLE OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Tomato Compote
1 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
2 SHALLOTS, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 RED CHILLI, SLICED
8 PLUM TOMATOES, PEELED, SEEDED AND CHOPPED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
SALT
For the tomato compote, heat the oil in a pan and sweat the shallots and garlic until softened. Add the sliced chilli, and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes to the pan, season with salt and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the lemon juice and set the compote aside.
Rinse the fish under the cold tap, then put them in a bowl with the milk and leave them to soak for 20 minutes. Wash the parsley and dry it really well.
Drain the whiting, then pat them dry with a cloth or kitchen paper. Season with salt and pepper, then dust the fish in flour. Bend each fish round so that its tail fits into its mouth. Press down firmly – you may need to secure the fish with a wooden stick.
Half fill a large pan or a deep-fat fryer with oil and heat to 180°C. Add 2 of the fish and fry them for 8–10 minutes, until golden and crisp, then set them aside on some kitchen paper to drain while you fry the rest.
Deep-fry the parsley for 30 seconds to crisp it up, then drain and season. Be careful as it will spit. Serve the fish with the fried parsley and the compote.
Red Mullet Pastilla
Pastilla is usually made with pigeon and deep-fried, but this baked version with red mullet is lighter and makes a lovely starter. Brik pastry is from North Africa and is similar to filo.
Serves 4
4 FILLETS OF RED MULLET, PIN-BONED
8 SHEETS OF BRIK PASTRY
2 TBSP TAPENADE (SHOP-BOUGHT OR SEE HERE)
16 BASIL LEAVES
1 TBSP PLAIN FLOUR
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
AÏOLI (SEE HERE), TO SERVE
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cut each mullet fillet into 4 long pieces. Season with a little pepper but no salt, as the tapenade is already quite salty. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Cut the brik sheets in half and place a piece of fish in the centre of each half, then top with a little tapenade and basil leaf.
Mix the flour with 2 tablespoons of water to make a paste. Brush this over one edge of each piece of pastry, then wrap it round the fish and press to seal. The paste should stick, but if you do have trouble, secure the parcels with a little cocktail stick. Brush the parcels with olive oil.
Bake the parcels in the oven for 15 minutes until brown and crisp and serve with aïoli.
NOIX DE ST JACQUES EN CHAPELURE, AIL ET PERSIL
Scallops with Breadcrumbs, Garlic & Parsley
This is one of the simplest and most delicious ways to enjoy scallops and you don’t even need a pan! Buy your scallops whole in the shells if possible and if the roes are attached and plump, you can include them in the dish. If you don’t have scallop shells, heatproof dishes or ramekins will do fine.
Serves 4
8–12 SCALLOPS (DEPENDING ON SIZE), CLEANED AND TRIMMED
6 TBSP BREADCRUMBS
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
2 TBSP SOFTENED BUTTER
1 LEMON, CUT INTO WEDGES
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7 and preheat your grill.
Pat the scallops dry and arrange them on 4 shells – or use little heatproof dishes if you don’t have shells.
Mix the breadcrumbs with the parsley, garlic and soft butter and season well. Divide this over the scallops.
Cook the scallops in the oven for 5 minutes, then place them under the hot grill for another 2–3 minutes to brown the breadcrumbs. Serve immediately with some lemon wedges.
BAR CUIT AUX ALGUES AVEC PURÉE DE CRESSON
Sea Bass Cooked in Seaweed with Watercress Purée
Cooking the fish with seaweed gives lovely extra flavour to this simple dish. Your fishmonger should be able to supply seaweed, or gather your own if you’re at the coast. Ask your fishmonger to clean and gut the fish and trim the fins but leave the head and scales on. This adds flavour and also makes it easier to remove the skin once the fish is cooked.
Serves 2
300G SEAWEED
1 UNWAXED LEMON, SLICED
1 SEA BASS (ABOUT 800G)
1 TBSP FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
SALT
Watercress Purée
250G WATERCRESS (TOUGH STALKS REMOVED), WASHED
30ML EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
JUICE OF ½ LEMON
First make the watercress purée. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the watercress and cook for 2 minutes. Drain, then refresh the watercress in a bowl of iced water. Drain the watercress again, then put it in a food processor or blender with the olive oil and lemon juice and blitz until smooth – you may need to add a little water. Season with a touch of salt but no pepper as watercress is naturally peppery. Set the purée aside.
Wash the seaweed, place most of it in a roasting tin and top with half the lemon slices. Season the inside of the fish with a little salt, lay it on the seaweed and lemon, then place the rest of the seaweed and lemon on top. Season with the pepper and pour in cold water to a depth of 2cm.
Tightly cover the tin with foil and place it over a high heat for 5 minutes to bring the water to the boil. Turn down the heat and leave the fish to steam gently for 20 minutes.
Remove the foil and the top layer of seaweed and carefully peel the skin off the fish. Lift the fillet off one side of the fish, then turn it over and remove the other fillet. Serve with the watercress purée and some Jersey Royal potatoes. The purée is fine cold or you can put it in a pan and gently warm it through if you prefer.
Poached Sea Trout
A farmed sea trout is best for this beautifully light fish dish, but a wild sea bass, scorpion fish or pollock can also be cooked in this way. The leftover cooking liquor makes an excellent fish stock for soups or other fish-based sauces. If you don’t have a fish kettle, a deep roasting tray with a wire rack should do the trick.
Serves 6
1 SEA TROUT (ABOUT 1.75KG), CLEANED AND GUTTED
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 CARROT, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 ONION, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 LEEK, FINELY CHOPPED
2 CELERY STICKS, FINELY CHOPPED
1 BOUQUET GARNI (SEE HERE)
1 UNWAXED LEMON, THINLY SLICED
300ML DRY WHITE WINE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Rinse the fish under cold water and pat it dry. If you’re using sea bass, scale it or ask your fishmonger to do this for you.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Add the vegetables and cook them until tender but don’t allow them to colour.
Place the fish in a fish kettle or on a rack in a roasting tin. Season it well with salt and pepper, then add the vegetables, bouquet garni, lemon slices and wine.
Pour on enough cold water to just cover the fish. Place the pan on the hob and bring the water to a very gentle simmer, then continue to simmer for 10 minutes. Cover the kettle or roasting tin with a lid or foil, then remove it from the heat and leave the fish to rest for 10 minutes.
After 20 minutes, carefully lift the fish out of the pan. Place it on a serving dish, peel off the skin and serve it with boiled new potatoes and a light hollandaise sauce (see here).
SEICHE À LA SÈTOISE
Cuttlefish, Sète Style
Cuttlefish is delicious and good value for money. It’s popular in France and increasingly seen in fishmongers in the UK now too. Fishmongers will usually clean the cuttlefish for you or you can do it yourself, but be prepared for a bit of mess as the ink gets everywhere! This way of cooking cuttlefish makes a great one-pot meal.
Serves 4–6
1.2KG CUTTLEFISH FLESH (CLEANED WEIGHT)
3 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 ONIONS, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TBSP TOMATO PASTE
250ML DRY WHITE WINE
2 PINCHES OF SAFFRON
1 BOUQUET GARNI (MADE UP OF A BAY LEAF AND SPRIGS OF THYME, FENNEL AND PARSLEY)
6 TOMATOES, PEELED AND SEEDED
80G BLACK OLIVES, PITTED
4 TBSP AÏOLI (SEE HERE)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cut the cuttlefish into strips of about 3 x 2cm. Warm a tablespoon of the oil in a large frying pan or sauté pan and sear the cuttlefish over a high heat to extract excess water. Drain the cuttlefish and set it aside, then discard the juices in the pan.
Heat the remaining oil in the pan and gently cook the onions until tender. Add the tomato paste and cook for 3–4 minutes, then add the wine, saffron, bouquet garni, chopped tomatoes and the olives. Simmer for another 5 minutes.
Add the cuttlefish and pour in just enough water to cover. Season well with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer, cover the pan and cook for 60–80 minutes or until the cuttlefish is beautifully tender.
Just before serving fold in the aïoli. Serve with red Camargue rice (see here).
TERRINE D’OEUF NIÇOISE
Egg Terrine Niçoise
This looks spectacular but it’s made with simple ingredients and, although it does take a bit of work, there’s nothing difficult about it. Serve it warm from the oven or cold for a picnic or as a starter. You’ll need a terrine dish or loaf tin measuring about 28 x 12cm.
Serves 6-8
4 LARGE TOMATOES, PEELED, SEEDED AND CHOPPED
1 TSP THYME LEAVES
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TSP TOMATO PASTE
500G LARGE LEAF SPINACH, WASHED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
GRATING OF NUTMEG
OLIVE OIL, FOR GREASING
12 FREE-RANGE EGGS
90ML SINGLE CREAM
75G CRUMBLY GOATS’ CHEESE, GRATED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Put the tomatoes in a pan with the thyme, shallot and tomato paste and season with salt and pepper. Cook over a medium heat for 20 minutes to get rid of the excess water, then tip everything into a bowl and set aside.
Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the spinach, then drain and refresh it in a bowl of iced water. Drain it again, then squeeze out as much moisture as you can. Chop the spinach, put it in a bowl and add the finely chopped garlic. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then set aside.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4 and grease the terrine dish or tin. Take the tomato mixture and beat in 4 of the eggs and 30ml of the cream, then pour the mixture into the terrine. Place the dish in a roasting tin and add just-boiled water to come halfway up the sides. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven.
Beat 4 eggs and 30ml of cream into the spinach. Carefully pour this mixture on to the tomato layer and put the terrine back in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove it from the oven.
Beat the remaining eggs with the grated cheese and the rest of the cream and pour this on top of the spinach layer. Cook for a further 20 minutes.
Leave the terrine to cool a little before serving or chill it overnight, then remove it from the dish and slice.
Stuffed Cauliflower
This dish is traditionally made with cabbage but I like this cauliflower version for a welcome change. It’s a real show-stopper and makes a small amount of meat go a long way.
Serves 6
1 CAULIFLOWER (ABOUT 1KG)
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
200G BONELESS PORK SHOULDER
100G PORK FAT
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 SLICES AIR-CURED HAM, SUCH AS BAYONNE (SEE HERE)
200ML WHITE WINE
200ML CHICKEN STOCK
TOMATO COULIS (SEE HERE)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and carefully add the whole cauliflower. Cook the cauliflower for 10 minutes, then drain and refresh it a bowl of iced water.
When the cauliflower is cold, drain it again really well. Remove the outer leaves, but leave the inner ones if they are nice and fresh. Using a small, sharp knife, such as a grapefruit knife, carefully cut out the central core, without breaking off any florets. Don’t go too deep.
Line a bowl with a large piece of oiled foil and put the cauliflower inside, cavity-side up.
Put the pork shoulder, fat, parsley, garlic and seasoning through the finest plate of a mincer, then mix well. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Fill the cavity of the cauliflower with the mince, pushing it into all the little crevices with your hands. Cover the top with the slices of ham, then fold over the foil and make sure it is really well sealed.
Place the cauliflower in a roasting tin, then add the wine and stock to the tin. Cook in the preheated oven for 30 minutes, then carefully open up the foil and continue to cook at 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6, basting often, for another 45 minutes.
Gently transfer the cauliflower to a board, then whisk tomato coulis into the roasting juices. Slice the cauliflower and serve with the juices.
Stuffed Marrow with Mushrooms
Marrow can be bland but this quick and easy recipe livens it up beautifully. Serve hot with tomato coulis (see here) and a side salad.
Serves 4
60G DRIED CEPS
1 MARROW (500–600G)
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 SHALLOTS, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TBSP BREADCRUMBS
360G MINCED PORK (OR SAUSAGEMEAT)
80G SMOKED BACON OR HAM, CHOPPED
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Soak the dried mushrooms in a small bowl of warm water for about 20 minutes to reconstitute them. Drain, then chop them roughly and set aside.
Cut the marrow in half lengthways and scoop out all the seeds.
Bring a very large pan of salted water to the boil, then plunge the marrow halves into the pan and cook for 1 minute. If you don’t have a pan big enough to completely submerge the marrow halves, cook them for 1 minute, then turn them and leave for another minute to blanch the other end.
Heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan and sweat the chopped mushrooms, shallots and garlic for 10 minutes until soft. Tip them into a bowl, season well and leave to cool slightly, then mix in the breadcrumbs, minced pork or sausagemeat, the bacon and parsley. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Fill the marrow halves with the stuffing, put them in a roasting tin and bake in the oven for 35 minutes.
Heat your grill and put the marrow halves under the grill until golden on top. Slice and serve with tomato coulis (see here).
Jellied Chicken & Bacon
This is proper French country cooking – simple ingredients but lots of flavour. Serve with a salad and grilled sourdough as a starter or with a potato salad as a summer main meal. It is vital to use stock that has lots of natural gelatine, so home-made is best (see here). If you don’t have home-made, buy a good stock and add gelatine before using.
Serves 4
4 CHICKEN LEGS, JOINTED INTO DRUMSTICKS AND THIGHS
1 TSP CRUSHED GREEN PEPPERCORNS
2 GARLIC CLOVES, CRUSHED
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
1 TBSP CHOPPED CHERVIL
60ML WHITE VERMOUTH
200ML DRY WHITE WINE
1.2 LITRES CHICKEN STOCK, HEATED
4 LEAVES OF GELATINE (OPTIONAL)
8 SLICES OF SMOKED STREAKY BACON
SALT
Joint the chicken legs into drumsticks and thighs or ask your butcher to do this for you.
Slash the skin of the chicken pieces several times and place them in an ovenproof dish that has a lid – I like to use an earthenware dish I can take to the table. Season the chicken with salt. Mix the peppercorns, garlic and herbs with the vermouth and wine, then pour this over the chicken and rub it in. Cover the dish and leave the chicken to marinate in the fridge for a couple of hours or overnight.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Remove the chicken from the fridge and pour the hot chicken stock into the dish. Lay the slices of bacon over the chicken. If you are using bought stock, soak the leaves of gelatine for a few minutes until soft, then add them to the hot stock before using.
Cover the dish with a tight-fitting lid. You can use foil but make sure it covers the dish tightly. Put the dish in the oven and cook for 2½ hours. Remove and leave to cool, then place it in the fridge for 12 hours – the chicken will keep for 7 days.
To serve, dip the base of the dish into hot water briefly, then spoon out the chicken and jelly. The jelly should be just set.
SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE SAUCE BOURGUIGNONNE
Chicken Breasts with Burgundy
The chicken does have to be marinated for a couple of hours but once that’s done, this is a quick dish to prepare and is ideal for a special supper.
Serves 2
500ML FULL-BODIED RED WINE (PREFERABLY BURGUNDY)
1 TBSP SUGAR
1 GARLIC CLOVE, CRUSHED
2 SKINLESS CHICKEN BREASTS, WINGLETS REMOVED
10 BUTTON ONIONS, PEELED
2 TBSP BUTTER
1 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
10 BUTTON MUSHROOMS, WIPED
120G SMOKED BACON
300ML BROWN CHICKEN STOCK OR VEAL STOCK
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Put the red wine, sugar and garlic in a glass or ceramic bowl (the wine can react with metal) and add the chicken breasts. Cover and leave them in the fridge to marinate for 2 hours.
Put the onions in a pan of cold water and bring the water to the boil. Take the pan off the heat and drain the onions, then set them aside.
Remove the chicken and pat it dry. Pour the marinade into a pan, bring it to the boil and reduce by two-thirds.
Heat a tablespoon of the butter and the oil in a frying pan, add the chicken breasts and fry them for 15 minutes, turning them halfway through. Remove the chicken from the pan and set it aside to rest.
Add the blanched onions and the mushrooms to the frying pan and cook them for a few minutes. Drain off the excess fat, add the bacon and cook until browned. Pour the reduced marinade into the pan, add the stock and boil rapidly until the mixture is syrupy. Stir the remaining butter into the sauce.
Serve the chicken with the onion and mushroom sauce and the potato and root vegetable cake here.
Potato & Root Vegetable Cake
This is the ideal accompaniment for the chicken breasts with Burgundy (opposite), as it soaks up the lovely winey juices.
Serves 2 generously
2 FLOURY POTATOES, PEELED
1 SHALLOT, PEELED
½ CARROT, PEELED
½ PARSNIP, PEELED
1 SMALL TURNIP, PEELED
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
2 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
BUTTER
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 210°C/Fan 190°C/Gas 6½.
Coarsely grate all the vegetables and mix them together in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper and add the chopped parsley. Place the mixture in a clean cloth and squeeze as much water out as possible.
Heat the oil in an ovenproof 20–24cm frying pan. Tip the vegetable mixture into the pan and press it down well, then add a few knobs of butter on top. Put the pan in the oven for 15 minutes.
Remove the pan from the oven, turn the cake out on to a board and then slide it back into the pan, underside up. Put the pan back in the oven for another 10 minutes. Leave the cake to cool slightly before serving.
PINTADE AU VIEUX VINAIGRE
Guinea Fowl with Vinegar
You need good-quality vinegar for this recipe, such as a Lyonnaise or Burgundy. Guinea fowl is a favourite in France and is often served in preference to chicken for special occasions. It has a slightly stronger, gamier flavour and not as much meat on it, but it’s definitely worth a try. It’s a healthy meat too, as it is lean with little fat.
Serves 2 generously
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 GUINEA FOWL
1 TSP TOMATO PASTE
1 CARROT, FINELY DICED
1 ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
1 CELERY STICK, FINELY DICED
4 TBSP RED WINE VINEGAR
300ML BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
1 TSP THYME LEAVES
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Preheat the oven to 230°C/Fan 210°C/Gas 8. Rub about a tablespoon of the oil over the bird and season it well with salt and pepper.
Place the bird in a roasting tin and roast for 20 minutes, then turn the oven down to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and roast for a further 20 minutes. Cooking the bird at a high temperature and with little fat like this is similar to cooking on a spit and results in a crisp skin and smoky flavours.
Take the guinea fowl out of the oven, remove it from the tin and place it on a board, loosely covered with foil. Set it aside to rest for 15 minutes.
Put the roasting tin on the hob and add the remaining oil, the tomato paste and the vegetables. Cook for 2–3 minutes, then add the vinegar and stock. Boil until you have a chunky sauce, then check the seasoning and add the thyme leaves. A French bean salad (see here) makes a nice accompaniment.
PARMENTIER DE CONFIT DE CANARD
Duck Confit Pie
Parmentier was the man who popularised potatoes in France in the 18th century. Whenever you see his name on a dish, it will contain potatoes. This dish is a special version of cottage or shepherd’s pie and very delicious. In France, you can buy confit duck legs in most butchers’ shops, but if you have trouble finding them in the UK, look for vacuum-packed or canned.
Serves 4
1KG FLOURY POTATOES (KING EDWARDS OR ROOSTERS), PEELED
4 GARLIC CLOVES, LEFT WHOLE AND UNPEELED
250ML MILK
60G BUTTER
4 CONFIT DUCK LEGS
1 ONION, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
30G TRUFFLE, SLICED (OPTIONAL)
2 TBSP BREADCRUMBS
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cut the potatoes into quarters. Put them in a pan of water with the garlic cloves and season with salt. Simmer until cooked, then drain, tip the potatoes and garlic back in the pan and leave them to steam and dry.
Remove the garlic, pop the skins off and put the flesh in a small pan with the milk. Simmer for 5 minutes, then blend until smooth.
Pass the potatoes through a ricer, mix in 30g of the butter and the garlicky milk, then season well. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Remove the skin and bones from the duck legs and shred the meat.
Warm a little of the fat from the confit in a frying pan and sweat the chopped onion until soft and lightly browned. Add the duck meat, parsley and the truffle, if using, and check the seasoning.
Tip the mixture into a pie dish and press it down. Spread the mashed potato on top and run a fork over it to make a pattern. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top and bake the pie in the oven for 20 minutes. Place the pie under a preheated grill to brown the top.
SUPRÊMES DE CANARD ET RAISINS AU GENIÈVRE
Duck Breasts with Grapes & Juniper
My version of this duck dish is rich in flavour but not in fat– there’s only a small amount of cream per person. It’s indulgent but not heavy. This sauce also goes well with game.
Serves 4
ABOUT 150G WHITE SEEDLESS GRAPES
4 DUCK BREASTS
2 TBSP BRANDY
120ML SWEET WINE (SUCH AS MUSCAT OR RASTEAU)
12 JUNIPER BERRIES, CRUSHED
100ML CRÈME FRAÎCHE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Take 24 of the plumpest grapes and peel them carefully with a small sharp knife.
Blitz the remaining grapes in a food processor or a blender, then pass them through a fine sieve to get about 200ml of juice.
Score the skin of the duck breasts and place them skin-side down in a warm frying pan. Season the duck and slowly bring the heat up, then cook until the fat renders and the skin turns golden brown. Turn the breasts and cook them for a further 7–8 minutes for pink meat. Remove the duck breasts from the pan and set them aside to rest. Discard the fat.
Pour the brandy and sweet wine into the pan, bring to the boil and reduce by half. Add the grape juice and crushed juniper berries and continue to boil rapidly until again reduced by half.
Whisk in the crème fraîche, season and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Add any juices that have run from the duck and the peeled grapes to warm through.
Serve the duck breasts with the sauce and grapes and some greens, such as spinach or chard, on the side.
Minute Steak
A minute steak is exactly that: a steak cooked in a minute. To do this, you need a very hot pan or skillet and a thin steak at room temperature. Most cuts work, but my favourite is rib-eye, which has a nice piece of fat running through it, but flat iron and rump are also fine. Bavette or onglet is often used in France, and if you want lots of flavour and don’t mind a little chewiness, is truly great.
Serves 2
2 X 120–180G STEAKS (1.5CM THICK)
2 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
1 TBSP BUTTER
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 TSP CRACKED BLACK PEPPER
1 TBSP BRANDY
60ML WHITE WINE
2 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
SALT
Take the steaks out of the fridge an hour before you want to cook them to make sure they are at room temperature. Heat a heavy-based pan until it’s very hot.
Brush the steaks with oil on both sides and season them with a little salt. Place them in the pan and let them sear for 20 seconds – don’t shake the pan or prod the meat. Turn the steaks and continue to cook for 30 or so seconds, then add the butter and baste. The steaks should be nicely seared and even a little charred.
Take the steaks out of the pan and leave them on a plate to rest.
Add the shallot to the pan, followed by the pepper, then stir and cook for 15 seconds. Pour in the brandy and wine, which should boil immediately. Add the crème fraîche and take the pan off the heat. Pour any juices from the resting steak into the sauce. Serve the steaks with the sauce and a salad.
JARRET DE BOEUF EN COCOTTE
Pot-Roast Beef Shin
Slow cooking turns this cheap cut of beef into a feast – soft, tender and full of flavour. It’s a great alternative to roast beef and it’s cooked in one pot so very easy to prepare. Ask your butcher to bone and tie the meat for you.
Serves 8
1 BEEF SHIN (ABOUT 2.8KG), BONE IN, TRIMMED AND TIED
10 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
3 ONIONS, PEELED AND SLICED
1 ROSEMARY SPRIG
2 BAY LEAVES
50ML BRANDY
500ML RED WINE
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 LITRES VEAL OR BEEF STOCK
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Put the beef in a large, deep bowl and add the garlic, onions, herbs, brandy and wine. Roll the beef in this marinade, then cover the bowl and leave it in the fridge for 8–12 hours. Turn the meat at least once to ensure the marinade gets to all parts.
Drain the shin and the vegetables and herbs, and reserve the liquid. Pat the meat dry. Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole dish and sear the beef on all sides – it’s very important to get it well caramelised.
Set the beef aside, then put the vegetables and herbs from the marinade in the dish and cook until they’re well caramelised. This will take about 20 minutes – keep scraping the bottom of the pan to lift off all the sugars. Preheat the oven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5.
Pour the reserved marinade liquid into the dish, bring to the boil and reduce by half. Add the stock and the beef, season with salt and pepper, then bring to a simmer. Place a lid on the dish, put it in the oven and cook for 3 hours, turning the meat after 1½ hours. Leave to cool a little before serving with mashed potatoes.
If you want a slightly more elegant sauce, remove the meat from the casserole dish once it is cooked and set it aside. Pass the cooking liquid and vegetables through a sieve back into the dish, pressing well to mash the vegetables and thicken the sauce. Bring the liquid back to the boil and serve with the meat.
CARRÉ D’AGNEAU EN CROÛTE D’OLIVE
Rack of Lamb with an Olive Crust
Straight out of Provence, this rack of lamb dish is good served with braised fennel and some roasted new potatoes. Rack is a prime cut – pricey but ideal for a special treat.
Serves 4–6
60G PITTED GREEN OLIVES
40G GROUND ALMONDS
30G BREADCRUMBS
ZEST AND JUICE OF 1 LEMON
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
2 RACKS OF LAMB (FRENCH TRIMMED)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Braised Fennel
2 FENNEL BULBS
2 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 TBSP PASTIS
1 TSP FENNEL SEEDS
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
200ML VEGETABLE OR CHICKEN STOCK
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Place all the ingredients for the lamb, except for the meat, in a food processor and blend until smooth. The mixture should come together as a paste. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Season the racks, then place them fat-side down in a pan over a medium heat to render the fat and brown the skin. When the racks are nicely brown, take the pan off the heat. Turn the racks over and spread the olive paste all over the browned meat and skin, then transfer them to a roasting tin.
Roast the lamb racks for 12 minutes for pink meat. Take them out and leave them to rest for 7–8 minutes before carving.
Meanwhile, trim the fennel bulbs and cut them into quarters. Heat the oil in a pan and carefully fry the fennel on all sides until lightly coloured. Add the pastis, followed by the fennel seeds, lemon juice and stock.
Season and simmer until the fennel is tender and the liquid has almost completely evaporated, then serve with the lamb.
Lamb with Haricot Beans
This was traditionally made with mutton and it’s just as good with hogget or lamb – but not spring lamb. It’s really a French version of Lancashire hotpot and a good hearty, healthy meal, all in one pot.
Serves 6
500G DRIED HARICOT BEANS
2 ONIONS, PEELED AND DICED
1 BAY LEAF
4 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CRUSHED
2 BOUQUETS GARNIS
4 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
1.2KG BONED LAMB NECK OR SHOULDER, CUT INTO 4CM PIECES
2 CARROTS, PEELED AND DICED
2 TBSP TOMATO PASTE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Soak the beans in cold water overnight. Drain them, put them in a pan with half the diced onions and the bay leaf, then cover generously with cold water. Add 2 of the garlic cloves and a bouquet garni and bring to the boil. Simmer for 45 minutes or until almost tender – the beans will be cooked again later. Drain the beans and set them and the cooking liquid aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large flameproof casserole dish and sear the meat until golden. It’s best to do this in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan. Remove each batch as it is browned.
Discard any fat in the pan. Add the rest of the oil and cook the remaining onion and garlic with the carrots over a medium heat until lightly coloured.
Add the tomato paste and the remaining bouquet garni and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan well. Put the meat back in the pan with enough of the bean cooking liquid to cover. Season, cover the pan and simmer gently for 45 minutes. Add the beans with more water if needed and simmer for a further 30 minutes. Serve in wide bowls.
