Index

Note: Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.

Actresses. See Performers

Adams, Maude, 63, 65, 66

Advertising and advertisements, 2, 15, 17–19, 29, 48, 53, 59, 67, 71–73, 83, 92, 97, 98, 100–108, 124, 128, 130, 161, 175

Alcott, Louisa May, 32, 34

Alfred Greenwood & Co., 48

Allen, Mark W., 47, 48

Allen, Mrs. R. W., 47

Allen, Richard Webber, 47

American Hairdresser, The, 32, 36, 161

American Revolution, 12

André (hairstylist, NY), 19

Andrews, Eliza Frances, 36, 71

Archive, using and limits of, 3, 14, 103, 145, 164, 168, 172

Arnold, Charles Dudley, 152, 154

Art Nouveau, 62

Astor, John Jacob IV, 62

A. T. Stewart’s department store, 84

Aultman Studio, 81, 82

Austen, Alice, 122, 124, 128

Ayer’s hair vigor, 73

Babcock, Cecilia Remond, 106

Babcock, Charles, 106

Bacon, Ellen, 155, 158, 159

Bandanas, 93, 117

Bannister, Christiana Babcock Carteaux. See Carteaux, Christiana

Bannister, Edward Mitchell, 103

Barbers, 8, 29, 36, 37, 40–42, 45, 146

Barbershops, 1, 2, 8, 15, 17–19, 32, 34, 34, 35, 37, 39, 40, 42, 43, 44, 44, 45, 46, 57, 105, 110, 146, 173

Barker, Virginia Purdy (Mrs. Walter Rathbone Bacon), 6

Barry, Alexander C., 17

Barrymore, Georgie Drew, 67

Barry’s Tricopherous, 17, 18, 19

Bathing costumes, 112

Beaches, 13, 108–110, 112, 113, 114, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 124, 127, 128, 129, 175

Beaton, Cecil, 32

Beauty, concepts of, 3, 17, 69, 97, 99, 100

Bebie, Hans Heinrich (Henry), 23, 27, 28

Beckwith, James Carroll, 28

Bedrooms, 1, 2, 15, 17–29, 21, 26, 31, 32, 33, 38, 55, 57, 95, 124, 173

Bell, Charles Milton, 60

Bellows, George, 28

Belmont, Oliver Hazard Perry, 73

Bend, Amy, 59

Bernhardt, Sarah, 62–64

Bicycles, 8, 13, 108–110, 117, 121–126, 128, 129–131, 174, 175

Bien, Julius, 117

Biltmore House, 95

Blond hair, 3, 23, 28, 32, 57, 66, 67, 69, 70, 73, 75, 98, 100, 110, 112, 124, 128, 161–163, 168, 169

Bloomer, Amelia, 121

Bloomers, 117, 121, 124, 128, 131

Body hair, 8

Bonnet, 93, 95, 164, 168

Boston, MA, 36, 37, 78, 103–106

Boston Chemical Company, 101

Boston Colored Ladies’ Sanitary Commission, 105

Bragdon, May, 54, 122–124, 128

Braids, braiding, 28, 54, 58, 62, 71, 93, 110, 155, 156

Brisbois and Federmeyer, hairdressing academy of, 32

Brooks, Elizabeth Carter, 134

Brothels, 23, 28

Browne, Peter Arrell, 96

Brownell and Company, 39

Brown hair. See Brunette hair

Bruce, Senator Blanche Kelso, 86

Brunette hair, 57, 67, 69, 73, 110, 112, 168

Burnett, Joseph, 45

Burroughs, Nannie Helen, 107

Butler, Pierce Mease, 54

Byron Company, 63

Campbell, Mark, 155, 156

Caps. See Hats

Caricature, 10, 12, 95, 121, 128, 131, 134

Carpenter, Frank G., 54

Carteaux, Christiana, 3, 73, 103–106

Carteaux, Dessilin, 103

Century Magazine, 71

Champagne (d. 1658), 32

Chartran, Théobald, 62

Chase, William Merritt, 140

Children, 15, 23, 29, 34, 35, 38, 40, 69, 75, 88, 91, 97, 98, 131, 146, 154

Christy, Howard Chandler, 130

Cigarettes, 112, 114, 115, 124

Clay, Edward W., 95

Cleveland, Frances Folsom, 59, 60, 61

Cleveland, Grover, 59

Clothing, 5, 8, 9, 23, 54, 69, 78, 80, 82, 88, 91, 95, 97, 122, 131, 136

Clough & Co., 38, 39, 40, 42

Cocoaine, 45

Cocoine hair restorer, 45

Colin, Maximilien, 138

Colonial America, 9

Colored Ladies of Massachusetts, 105

Colored Women’s Auxiliary, 105

Colored Women’s League, 86

Combing. See Hair combing

Combs, 48, 93, 148

Contrelli, Addie L., 170, 172

Coolidge, John Templeman, 77

Copping, Harold, 34

Cornforth, Fanny, 69

Costume ball. See Fancy dress balls

Cox, Charles A., 128, 174

C. S. Dyer and Son, 161

Cultural geography, 1, 7, 57, 83, 91, 145, 173

Curling iron, 32, 54, 148

Curly hair, 3, 17, 62, 67, 71, 97, 98, 103, 130, 171

Currier and Ives, 32, 33, 69–71

Darly, Mary, 10

Darly, Matthias, 10

Davis, Minerva, 93

Decker, Edgar, 87

Degas, Edgar, 28

de Goncourt, Edmond, 28

Delineator, The, 19

Department stores, 47, 58, 83, 170

Detroit, MI, 47, 49

Dickens, Charles, 69

Display cases, 47, 48

Dolan, Kate, 71

Dole, Nathan Haskell, 124, 127

Douglass, Robert Jr., 78

Dressing table, 17, 23, 29

Edelstein, Albert, 53

Eden, William S., 45

Edward Rolland’s Lady’s Hair Store, 48

Élégants, 10

Elliott, Rebecca E., 100

Empress Elisabeth of Austria, 54

Empress Eugénie of France, 69

Enslaved people, 1, 4, 9, 13, 37, 86, 88, 91–98, 173

Ephemerality, 1, 5, 56, 173

Etiquette books, 2, 15, 54, 58, 69, 71, 117, 121, 122

False hair, 9, 10, 12, 13, 66, 71, 86, 157, 170

Fancy dress balls, 5, 12, 38, 58, 62, 67

Fashion plates, 3, 32, 113, 128

Federal Writers’ Project Slave Narrative Project, 93

Fisher, Harrison, 130

Fiske, Harrison Grey, 138

Fiske, Minnie Maddern, 109, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142

Flooring, 17, 23, 39, 42

Forbes, George W., 104, 105

Foucault, Michel, 8, 145

Fragrance, 9

Franklin, Benjamin, 12

Frederick A. Stokes Company, 125

Freeman, Martin Henry, 99

Frivolity, 1, 2, 10, 12, 175

Fuller, George, 90–92

Gardner, Isabella Stewart, 75

Garrity, Sallie E., 137

Gautreau, Virginie Amélie Avegno, 75

Geissler, L., 20

Géniaux, Charles, 165–167, 172

Gentieu, Pierre A., 16

George R. Lawrence Co., 111

Gibson, Charles Dana,130, 135

Gibson, Irene Langhorne, 130

Gibson Girl, 109, 130

Godefroy, Alexandre Ferdinand, 56

Godey’s Lady’s Book, 19, 105, 155

Goodridge, Glenalvin J., 80

Goodridge, Rhoda (Mrs. Glenalvin Goodridge), 80

Gorham Manufacturing Company, 150

Grand, Sarah, 130

Grateau, Marcel, 32

Gray hair, 73, 100, 103, 107, 161, 162

Greenwood, James, 161, 164

Hackley, Emma Azelia Smith, 134

Haig, Charlotte Augusta Astor, 67

Hair, animal, 9, 93, 148, 154, 159, 163, 169

Hair, brushing of, 17, 19, 23, 28, 29, 34, 41, 54, 56, 92

Hair, literary studies of, 1, 3–5, 37, 69, 96

Hair, texture of, 4, 62, 71, 96–100, 156

Hair brush, 93, 148, 150

Hair care, 3, 13, 15, 19, 54, 75, 84, 92, 100, 106, 107, 112, 173

Hair cleaning, 5, 7, 12, 15, 17, 39, 40, 54, 56, 170, 173. See also Shampooing

Hair color, 67–75. See also Blond hair; Brunette hair; Hair dye; Red hair

Hair combing, 7, 17, 28, 54, 93, 96, 110, 111

Hair curling, 5, 9, 23, 40, 54, 56, 71, 103, 148

Haircutting, 17, 32, 34, 45, 93, 103

Hairdealers Association, 32

Hairdressers and hairdressing, 1, 3, 5, 8, 10, 12, 13, 15, 23, 28, 29–56, 58, 59, 66, 73, 78, 83, 93, 100, 102–106, 110, 131, 154, 161, 170, 173

Hair drying, 15, 54, 56, 170

Hair dye, 12, 48, 73, 75, 82

Hair grower tonic, 19, 21, 108

Hair jewelry, 8, 48, 155, 162, 170

Hair length, 19, 34, 42, 59, 62, 63, 86, 97–99, 130, 131, 138, 156, 163, 169

Hair market and trade, 9, 13, 14, 36, 48, 145–164, 165, 166, 167, 168–172

Hair parlors and salons, 1–3, 5, 7, 15, 17, 19, 32, 38–56, 105, 106, 173

Hair pins, 19, 29, 58, 59, 122

Hair powder, 1, 9–12, 19, 41

Hair products, 99–107. See also Hair dye; Hair grower tonic; Hair powder; Hair straightening

Hair straightening, 93, 95, 99, 101, 108

Hair studies, 1–4, 109, 146

Hairstyles, hairstyling, 1–6, 8–14, 19, 48, 58, 62, 66, 67, 73, 78, 82–86, 88, 93, 99, 100, 108–110, 122, 124, 130, 131, 134, 136, 138, 140, 155. See also Pompadour

Hairwork, 8, 148, 158, 170, 172

Hale, Sarah Josepha Buell. 105

Halévy, Geneviève, 28

Halévy, Ludovic, 28

Hall’s vegetable Sicilian hair renewer, 73

Harlem Renaissance, 131

Harper, Martha Matilda, 19

Harper method, 19

Harper’s Bazar, 19, 22, 71, 73, 161

Harper’s Weekly, 29, 31, 94, 114, 136

Harpers Ferry, NY, 37

Hartona Remedy Company, 103

Hats, 13, 112, 117, 121–124, 128, 148, 151, 168

Hawx’s Hair Cutting Rooms, 37

Hayes, Lucy, 59

Headdresses, 12, 62, 67, 153

Headwraps, 23, 88, 93, 95, 173. See also Bandanas; Tignons

Hemp, 93, 148, 159, 160

Herter, Albert, 71

Hewitt, Lucy W., 67

Histrionic Club, 105

Hodgson, Thomas, 99

Hoosier Curling Fluid Manufacturing Co., 148

Hotels, 37, 38, 42, 44–46, 117

House of Worth, 140

Hovey’s Cocoa Glycerine, 29, 30

Howells, William Dean, 29, 30

Hughes, William Charles, 147

Illness, 41, 71, 170

Immigration, 98

Imperial Hair Coloring, 100

Imperial Hair Regenerator Company, 67

Imperialism, 8, 13, 130, 145, 172

Imperial Whitener, 130

Interior decoration, 5, 13, 110

Jackson, Albert L., 54, 55

Jacobs, Harriet, 97, 98

James McCreery and Company, 84

Jones, Sissieretta (Matilda Sissieretta Joyner Jones), 67, 68, 82

J. Ottman Lithographing Company, 46, 126

Keckley, Elizabeth, 92

Kemble, Frances Ann, 54, 91

Kendall’s Amboline, 19, 20

Knecht, Gustav, 45

Knox, Dorothea and Maryal, 119

Knox, Katherine (“Kittie”) Towle, 124

Kochs, Theodore A., 40–43, 45

Labor, 8, 13, 23, 42, 48, 82–86, 103, 106, 107, 146, 161, 169

Ladies Hair Work Salon, 106

Langtry, Lillie, 78

Last Seen: Finding Family After Slavery project, 98

Lauraline, 39, 40

Lefebvre, Henri, 7

Lenthéric, Guillaume Louis, 37

Léon (hairstylist, NY), 32

Léonard (Léonard Alexis Autier), 32

Leonard, Dr. Charles Henri, 73, 75, 169

Lincoln, Mary Todd, 92

London, England, 62, 121, 148, 159, 161, 164

Long, Octavia C., 131, 133

Long Branch, NJ, 112

L’Oréal, 75

Louis XIII (king), 9

Louis XIV (king), 9, 12

Louis XV (king), 12

Low, Setha, 8, 83

L. Shaw (business), 48, 51–53

Lyceum Theatre (London, England), 62

Lyon’s Kathairon, 23, 24

Macaronis, 10

Macfadden, Bernarr, 75

Madame Delmore’s Hair Vigor, 103

Madison Square Garden, 67

Maids,10, 12, 19, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 32, 37, 38, 56, 59, 86, 88, 110

Male gaze, 28

Malone, Annie Turnbo, 108

Manet, Edouard, 69

Manicuring, 48, 53

Marcel wave, 32

Marie Antoinette, 10, 32

Martha’s Vineyard, MA, 37

Martin, Bradley, 38

Martin, Cornelia Sherman, 38

Mary Magdalene, 62

Masculinity, 9

Mattison, Reverend Hiram, 97

McCabe, James Dabney, 57, 58, 67

Meurent, Victorine, 69

Millais, John Everett, 71

Millinery, 103, 136. See also Hats

Miró, Esteban Rodriguez, 86

Mirrors, 17, 19, 28, 29, 42, 44, 45, 48, 95, 104, 110–112, 173

Missing-person advertisements, 83, 92, 96, 98

Mlle. Louise (Brooklyn, NY), 151

Mobility and mobilities studies, 7, 8, 13, 15, 83, 106, 109, 155, 170, 172, 175

Modjeska, Helena, 62

Mount Vernon, 9, 88

Mrs. H. E. Wilson’s Hair Dressing, 107

Mrs. Putnam’s Medicated Hair Tonic, 106

Mucha, Alphonse, 62–64

Murray & Lanman’s Florida Water, 23

Nadar (Studio of), 63

N. A. Moses & Co., 114

Nannies, 88, 88, 90

Narragansett, RI, 117

National Association of Colored Women, 86

Nesbit, Evelyn, 130

Netscher, Caspar, 23

New Negro movement, 107, 131

Newport, RI, 37, 112, 124

New Woman, 12, 13, 36, 84–86, 109, 130–134, 138, 140

New York Crystal Palace, 45

Nichols and Co. (Chicago, IL), 148

Osborne, Garrett, and Company, 161

Otto Sarony Co. studio, 66, 140

Ozono, 101, 102

Pach Brothers, 63

Palmer, Bertha Honoré Potter, 146

Paris, 32, 38, 62, 148, 156, 164, 165

Parties, 1, 34, 38, 57, 58, 67, 82, 117, 173

Patriarchy, 8, 13, 29, 96, 140, 145

Patti, Adelina, 67

Penfield, Edward, 121

Penny, Virginia, 34, 36–38

Performers, 53, 54, 57, 59, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 66, 67, 71, 75, 78, 91, 105, 109, 138, 140

Perfume, 45, 154

Petit, Auguste,37

Peyton, Anne Ridgeley du Pont, 16

Phalon’s Saloon, NY, 44, 45

Photograph album, 21

Photography studio, 47, 57, 63, 78, 138

Picquet, Louisa, 97

Place, cultural geographical concept of, 1, 2, 4–9, 13, 14, 17, 45, 56–58, 82, 83, 88, 91, 97, 105, 108, 109, 145, 172, 173, 175

Plantations, 9, 54, 88, 91

Pollock, Griselda, 28

Pomade, 93, 94, 99–101, 154

Pompadour, 67, 78, 82, 109, 131, 140

Poro College, 108

Portrait studios, 75–82

Portraiture, 5, 9, 47, 48, 62, 71, 75–82, 88, 95, 104, 136, 138–140, 173

Potter, Eliza, 37, 98

Prang and Company, 71

Prather, Laura C., 73, 74

Pre-Raphaelites, 3, 69, 71

Prendergast, Maurice Brazil, 124, 127

Prostitutes, 23, 27, 28

Providence, RI, 38–40, 42, 54, 73, 103–106

Providence Art Club, 106

Putnam, Caroline Remond, 106

Racism, 3, 91, 95–99, 145, 146, 154, 168

Railroads, 8, 13, 108, 110, 111, 112, 143

Red hair, 67, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 128, 138–140

Redmond, Helen Bulkeley, 67

Remond, Charles Lenox, 106

Remond, Maritcha, 106

Remond, Sarah Parker, 106

Renoir, Pierre-Auguste, 28

Rhead, Louis John, 71, 72

Ripley, Eliza, 91

Roberts, Sarah Lawrence “Susan” Endicott, 59

Roberts, William, 44

Robinson, William H., 93

Rochon, Joannes (John), 59

Rogers, William Allen, 29, 31

Rossetti, Dante Gabriel, 69

Rowland, Alexander, 159

Rue de la Paix, Paris, 38

Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, 38

R. W. Allen Wig Making and Hair Goods, 47

Saratoga, NY, 37, 112

Sardou, Victorien, 62

Sargent, John Singer, 62, 75–78

Sarony, Napoleon, 68

Sarony, Otto, 66, 140

Sarony photography studio, 63, 75, 138

Schueller, Eugène, 75

Seaside. See Beaches

Servants, 9, 23, 37

Seven Sutherland Sisters, 21, 27

Sewing, 84, 92, 107, 131

Shampooing, 7, 17, 19, 34, 39–42, 48, 54, 56, 103, 104, 106, 170, 173

Shaw, Lawrence, 53

Shaw, Louise, 53

Siddall, Elizabeth, 69

Sinks, 40, 110, 173

Sloan, John, 28

Southworth and Hawes, 78

Space, cultural geographical concept of, 1, 2, 4–10, 13, 14, 28, 29, 45, 48, 57, 83, 88, 91, 94, 97, 100, 140, 143, 145, 173–175

Squires, Constant F., 133

Standard Fashion Company, 113

Steamships, 8, 36, 110, 112

Tackitt, Mattie, 19

Terry, Ellen, 62, 71

Thaxter, Celia, 154

Theaters, 5, 13, 57, 62–69, 105

Thompson, Mrs. C., 161, 162

Thrift, Nigel, 7, 15, 23, 57, 91, 94, 145

Tiffany & Company, 148, 152, 153

Tignons, 23, 86, 88. See also Headwraps

Time, 4–7, 13, 14, 17, 38, 53–56, 84, 91, 96, 97, 112, 163, 173–175

Toombs, Jane Mickens, 93

Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de, 28

Trade cards, 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, 32, 38, 39, 112, 114, 114, 175

Trains. See Railroads

Trollope, Thomas Adolphus, 164

Troubetzkoy, Amélie Rives, 75

Truth, Sojourner, 99

Tuan, Yi-Fu, 7, 15, 45, 57, 94, 109, 173

Turbans, 88, 93. See also Headwraps

Turner, M. C., 101

Tuskegee Institute, 86

U.S. Civil War, 2, 32, 83, 105

Usher, Nora C., 36

Vanderbilt, Alice Claypoole, 73

Vanderbilt, Alva Belmont, 67, 73

Vanderbilt, Consuelo, 73

Vanderbilt, William Kissam, 67

Voyeurism, 28, 91

Walker, Madame C. J. (Sarah Breedlove McWilliams Walker), 107, 108, 127

Walker, William Henry, 128, 129

Ward, Helen, 75

Ward, Maria E. (Violet), 122

Washington, Booker T., 86

Washington, George, 9, 88

Weaving, 92

Weddings, 54, 91, 94, 94, 95, 121

Weidner, Carl A., 6, 79

Weidner, Fredrika, 6, 79

Wells, Ida B., 109, 110, 134, 136–138, 140, 146

White House, The, 59, 67

Wigs, 9–12, 36, 47, 48, 57, 59, 67, 82, 103, 106, 110, 148, 161–163, 170

Wilkin’s Hairdressing, 47

Willard, Frances E., 37, 58, 69

Williams, Fannie Barrier, 107

Williams, Mary Rogers, 121

William S. Kimball & Company, 112, 115–117

Willing, Ava, 62

Willing, Violet Lee, 62

Willson, Josephine Beall, 37, 86, 87

Wilson, Harriet E. (Hattie), 98, 106, 107

Window displays, 13, 47, 48

Workplaces, 1, 5, 13, 83–95

World Woman’s Christian Temperance Union, 58, 121

World’s Columbian Exposition (Chicago, 1893), 14, 67, 136, 145–149, 152, 154, 155, 158, 163, 164, 168, 172

Zorn, Anders Leonard, 60