La Côte d’Azur: Nice • Villefranche-sur-Mer • The Three Corniches • Monaco • Antibes • Inland Riviera
Map: Public Transportation on the French Riviera
Map: Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants
Orientation to Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer Town Walk
Activities in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Sleeping in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Eating in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer Connections
Orientation to St-Paul-de-Vence
A hundred years ago, celebrities from London to Moscow flocked to the French Riviera to socialize, gamble, and escape the dreary weather at home. Today, budget vacationers and heat-seeking Europeans fill belle époque resorts at France’s most sought-after fun-in-the-sun destination.
Some of the Continent’s most stunning scenery and intriguing museums lie along this strip of land—as do millions of sun-worshipping tourists. Nice has world-class museums, a splendid beachfront promenade, a seductive old town, and all the drawbacks of a major city (traffic, crime, pollution, and so on). The day-trip possibilities are easy and exciting: Fifteen minutes east of Nice, little Villefranche-sur-Mer stares across the bay to woodsy and exclusive Cap Ferrat; the eagle’s-nest Eze-le-Village surveys the scene from high above; Monaco offers a royal welcome and a fairytale past; Antibes has a thriving port and silky sand beaches; and the inland hill towns present a rocky and photogenic alternative to the beach scene. Evenings on the Riviera, a.k.a. la Côte d’Azur, were made for a promenade and outdoor dining.
My favorite home bases are Nice, Antibes, and Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Nice is the region’s capital and France’s fifth-largest city. With convenient train and bus connections to most regional sights, this is the most practical base for train travelers. Urban Nice also has museums, a beach scene that rocks, the best selection of hotels in all price ranges, and good nightlife options. A car is a headache in Nice.
Nearby Antibes is smaller, with a bustling center, a lively night scene, great sandy beaches, grand vistas, good walking trails, and a Picasso museum. Antibes has frequent train service to Nice and Monaco. It’s the most convenient overnight stop for drivers, with light traffic and easy hotel parking.
Villefranche-sur-Mer is the romantic’s choice, with a serene setting and small-town warmth. It has sand-pebble beaches; quick public transportation to Nice, Monaco, and Cap Ferrat; and a small selection of hotels in most price ranges.
Ideally, allow a full day for Nice, a day for Monaco and the Corniche route that connects it with Nice, and a half-day for Antibes, Villefranche-sur-Mer, or Cap Ferrat (or better, a full day combining Villefranche and Cap Ferrat). Monaco and Villefranche-sur-Mer are radiant at night, and Antibes works well day (good beaches and hiking) and night (fine choice of restaurants and a lively after-hours scene). Hill-town-loving naturalists should add a day to explore the charming hill-capping hamlets near Vence.
Exchange Rate: €1 = about $1.10
Country Calling Code: 33 (see here for dialing instructions)
Medical Help: Riviera Medical Services has a list of English-speaking physicians all along the Riviera. They can help you make an appointment or call an ambulance (tel. 04 93 26 12 70, www.rivieramedical.com).
Closed Days: Mondays and Tuesdays can frustrate market lovers and museumgoers. Closed on Monday: Nice’s Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Fine Arts Museum, and Cours Saleya produce and flower market; Antibes’ Picasso Museum and market hall (Sept-May). Closed on Tuesday: the Chagall, Matisse, Masséna, and Archaeological museums in Nice. On Fridays Matisse’s Chapel of the Rosary in Vence is closed.
Sightseeing Pass: The French Riviera Pass includes entry to many museums and sights, including Monaco’s Oceanography Museum, Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on Cap Ferrat, and Nice’s Chagall Museum (which is not included in the €10 combo-ticket that covers most Nice museums). This pass is likely worthwile only if you intend to do the included Trans Côte d’Azur cruise (see “Tours in Nice”) or have an aggressive sightseeing plan (€26/24 hours, €38/28 hours, €56/72 hours, tel. 04 92 14 46 14, http://en.frenchrivierapass.com).
Events: The Riviera is famous for staging major events. Unless you’re taking part in the festivities, these occasions give you only room shortages and traffic jams. Here are the three biggies: Nice Carnival (two weeks in mid-late-Feb, www.nicecarnaval.com), Cannes Film Festival (12 days in mid-May, www.festival-cannes.com), and the Grand Prix of Monaco (4 days in late May, www.acm.mc). To accommodate the busy schedules of the rich and famous (and really mess up a lot of normal people), the film festival and car race often overlap.
Local Guides with Cars: These two energetic and delightful women have comfortable minibuses and enjoy taking couples and small groups anywhere in the region: Sylvie Di Cristo (€600/day, €350/half-day for up to 8 people, mobile 06 09 88 83 83, www.frenchrivieraguides.net, dicristosylvie@gmail.com) and Ingrid Schmucker (€490/day for 4 people or €550/day for 5-7 people, €180/half-day or €285/day if you don’t need transportation, tel. 06 14 83 03 33, www.kultours.fr, info@kultours.fr). Their websites explain their programs well. The TI and most hotels have information on more economic shared minivan excursions from Nice (roughly €50-70/person per half-day, €80-120/person per day).
Local Guides Without Cars: For a guided tour of Nice or the region using public transit or your own car, consider Pascale Rucker, an art-loving guide with 25 years of experience who teaches with the joy and wonder of a flower child (€160/half-day, €260/day, tel. 06 16 24 29 52, pascalerucker@gmail.com), or Agnès Dumartin, a good teacher who understands Nice particularly well and loves all forms of art. Agnès doesn’t drive, but she’s ideal for walks in Nice and can join you in your car for regional sights (€210/half-day, €295/day, mobile 06 81 82 17 67, agnes.dumartin@orange.fr).
Foodie Tours: For food and wine walking tours and cooking classes offered in Nice, see here.
Longer-Stay Rentals: Riviera Pebbles offers a wide range of apartments throughout the Riviera and gets good reviews from happy clients (www.rivierapebbles.com).
Connecting to the Alps: If driving from the Riviera north to the Alps (see next chapter), consider taking La Route Napoléon. After getting bored in his toy Elba empire, Napoléon gathered his entourage, landed on the Riviera, bared his breast, and told his fellow Frenchmen, “Strike me down or follow me.” France followed. But just in case, he took the high road, returning to Paris along the route known today as La Route Napoléon. (Waterloo followed shortly afterward.) The route is beautiful (from south to north, follow signs: Digne, Sisteron, and Grenoble). Little Entrevaux is worth a quick leg-stretch. Climb high to the citadel for great views and appreciate the unspoiled character of the town. Several pleasant villages with inexpensive hotels lie along this route, making an overnight easy. You can also foray into the Alps via the narrow-gauge train from Nice (see here).
If taking the train or bus, have coins handy. Ticket machines don’t take US credit cards or euro bills, smaller train stations may be unstaffed, and bus drivers can’t make change for large bills.
By Public Transportation: Trains and buses do a good job of connecting places along the coast, with bonus views along many routes. Buses also provide reasonable service to some inland hill towns, and are typically less expensive and more convenient. Trains are generally faster and more expensive.
Buses are an amazing deal in the Riviera. Any one-way bus or tram ride costs €1.50 (€10 for 10 tickets) whether you’re riding just within Nice or to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Monaco, or Antibes. The €1.50 ticket is good for 74 minutes of travel in one direction anywhere within the bus system except for airport buses. Buy your bus ticket from the driver or from machines at stops, and validate your ticket in the machine on board. Your ticket allows transfers between the buses of the Lignes d’Azur (the region’s main bus company, www.lignesdazur.com) and the TAM (Transports Alpes-Maritimes); if you board a TAM bus and need a transfer, ask for un ticket correspondance. A €5 all-day ticket is good on Nice’s city buses, tramway, and selected buses serving nearby destinations (such as Villefranche, Cap Ferrat, and Eze-le-Village). The general rule of thumb: If the bus number has one or two digits, it’s covered with the all-day ticket; with three digits it’s not.
The train is more expensive but much faster (Nice to Monaco by train is about €4, versus €1.50 by bus), and there’s no quicker way to move about the Riviera (http://en.voyages-sncf.com). Speedy trains link the Riviera’s beachfront destinations. Never board a train without a ticket or valid pass—fare inspectors accept no excuses. The minimum fine: €70. (See here for a tip on avoiding lines when buying regional train tickets in Nice.)
Nice makes the most convenient base for day trips, though public transport also works well from Riviera towns such as Antibes and Villefranche-sur-Mer. Details are provided under each destination’s “Connections” section. For a scenic inland train ride, take the narrow-gauge train into the Alps (see here).
For an overview of the most useful Riviera train and bus connections, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” chart on here.
By Car: This is France’s most challenging region to drive in. Beautifully distracting vistas (natural and human), loads of Sunday-driver tourists, and every hour being lush-hour in the summer make for a dangerous combination. Parking can be exasperating. Bring lots of coins and patience.
The Riviera is awash with scenic roads. To sample some of the Riviera’s best scenery, connect Provence and the Riviera by driving the splendid coastal road between Cannes and Fréjus (D-6098 from Cannes/D-559 from Fréjus). Once in the Riviera, the most scenic and thrilling road trip is along the three coastal roads—called “corniches”—between Nice and Monaco (see here).
By Boat: Trans Côte d’Azur offers seasonal boat service from Nice to Monaco (tel. 04 92 98 71 30, www.trans-cote-azur.com). For details, see “Getting Around the Riviera from Nice” on here.
The list of artists who have painted the Riviera reads like a Who’s Who of 20th-century art. Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Matisse, Marc Chagall, Georges Braque, Raoul Dufy, Fernand Léger, and Pablo Picasso all lived and worked here—and raved about the region’s wonderful light. Their simple, semi-abstract, and—most importantly—colorful works reflect the pleasurable atmosphere of the Riviera. You’ll experience the same landscapes they painted in this bright, sun-drenched region, punctuated with views of the “azure sea.” Try to imagine the Riviera with a fraction of the people and development you see today.
But the artists were mostly drawn to the uncomplicated lifestyle of fishermen and farmers that has reigned here since time began. As the artists grew older, they retired in the sun, turned their backs on modern art’s “isms,” and painted with the wide-eyed wonder of children, using bright primary colors, basic outlines, and simple subjects.
A collection of modern- and contemporary-art museums (many described in this book) dot the Riviera, allowing art lovers to appreciate these masters’ works while immersed in the same sun and culture that inspired them. Many of the museums were designed to blend pieces with the surrounding views, gardens, and fountains, thus highlighting that modern art is not only stimulating, but sometimes simply beautiful.
While many of the same dishes served in Provence are available in the Riviera (see “Provence’s Cuisine Scene” on here), there are differences, especially if you look for anything Italian or from the sea. When dining on the Riviera, I expect views and ambience more than top-quality cuisine.
La salade niçoise is where most Riviera meals start. A true specialty from Nice, the classic version is a base of green salad with boiled potatoes, tomatoes, anchovies, olives, hard-boiled eggs, and lots of tuna. This is my go-to salad for a tasty, healthy, cheap (€13), and fast lunch. I like to spend a couple of extra euros and eat it in a place with a nice ambience and view.
For lunch on the go, look for a pan bagnat (like a salade niçoise stuffed into a hollowed-out soft roll). Other tasty bread treats include pissaladière (bread dough topped with onions, olives, and anchovies), fougasse (a spindly, lace-like bread sometimes flavored with nuts, herbs, olives, or ham), and socca (a thin chickpea crêpe, seasoned with pepper and olive oil and often served in a paper cone by street vendors).
Bouillabaisse is the Riviera’s most famous dish; you’ll find it in seafront villages and cities. It’s a spicy fish stew based on recipes handed down from sailors in Marseille. This dish often requires a minimum order of two and can cost up to €40-60 per person.
Those on a budget can enjoy other seafood soups and stews. Far less pricey than bouillabaisse and worth trying is the local soupe de poisson (fish soup). It’s a creamy soup flavored like bouillabaisse, with anise and orange, and served with croutons and rouille sauce (but has no chunks of fish).
The Riviera specializes in all sorts of fish and shellfish. Options include fruits de mer, or platters of seafood (including tiny shellfish, from which you get the edible part only by sucking really hard), herb-infused mussels, stuffed sardines, squid (slowly simmered with tomatoes and herbs), and tuna (thon). The popular loup flambé au fenouil is grilled sea bass, flavored with fennel and torched with pastis prior to serving.
For details on dining in France’s restaurants, cafés, and brasseries, getting takeout, and assembling a picnic—as well as a rundown of French cuisine—see the “Eating” section in the Practicalities chapter (here).
Wines of the Riviera: Do as everyone else does, and drink wines from Provence. Bandol (red) and Cassis (white) are popular and from a region nearly on the Riviera. The only wines made in the Riviera are Bellet rosé and white, the latter often found in fish-shaped bottles.
Nice (sounds like “niece”), with its spectacular Alps-to-Mediterranean surroundings, is the big-city highlight of the Riviera. Its traffic-free old town mixes Italian and French flavors to create a spicy Mediterranean dressing, while its big squares, broad seaside walkways, and long beaches invite lounging and people-watching. Nice may be nice, but it’s hot and jammed in July and August—reserve ahead and get a room with air-conditioning. Everything you’ll want to see in Nice is either within walking distance, or a short bike, bus, or tram ride away.
Focus your time on the area between the beach and the train tracks (about 15 blocks apart). The city revolves around its grand Place Masséna, where pedestrian-friendly Avenue Jean Médecin meets Vieux (Old) Nice and the Promenade du Paillon parkway (with quick access to the beaches). It’s a 20-minute walk (or about €14 by taxi) from the train station to the beach, and a 20-minute stroll along the promenade from the fancy Hôtel Negresco to the heart of Vieux Nice.
A 10-minute ride on the smooth-as-silk tram through the center of the city connects the train station, Place Masséna, Vieux Nice, and the port (from nearby Place Garibaldi). Work is underway on a new tram line (much of it underground) that will parallel the Promenade des Anglais (scheduled for completion in 2019).
Nice has several helpful TIs (tel. 08 92 70 74 07, www.nicetourisme.com), including branches at the airport (daily 9:00-18:00), the train station (summer daily 9:00-19:00, rest of year Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-17:00), at 5 Promenade des Anglais (daily 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00), and on the north side of Place Masséna, called “Pavillon” (May-mid-Sept only, daily 10:00-18:00). Pick up a free Nice map, and ask for day-trip information (including maps of Monaco or Antibes, details on boat excursions, and bus stop locations and schedules).
By Train: All trains stop at Nice’s main station, called Nice-Ville (you don’t want the suburban Nice Riquier Station). With your back to the tracks, car rentals are to the right, and airport bus #99 stops in front. The TI is straight out the main doors. There’s no baggage storage at the station, but you can stash your bags a short block away at the recommended Hôtel Belle Meunière.
Nice’s single tram line zips you to the center in a few minutes (several blocks to the left as you leave the station, departs every few minutes, direction: Hôpital Pasteur; for details, see “Getting Around Nice” on here). To walk to the beach, Promenade des Anglais, or many of my recommended hotels, cross Avenue Thiers in front of the station, go down the steps by Hôtel Interlaken, and continue down Avenue Durante.
By Bus: See “Getting Around the Riviera from Nice” on here for stop information.
By Car: To reach the city center on the autoroute from the west, take the first Nice exit (for the airport—called Côte d’Azur, Central) and follow signs for Nice Centre. Hoteliers know where to park (allow €18-30/day; many hotels offer deals but space is limited—book ahead). The parking garage at the Nice Etoile shopping center on Avenue Jean Médecin is near many recommended hotels (ticket booth on third floor, about €28/day, 18:00-8:00). Other centrally located garages have similar rates. All on-street parking is metered (usually with a 2-hour limit) every day but Sunday, when it is typically free.
You can avoid driving in the center—and park for free during the day (no overnight parking)—by stashing your car at a parking lot at a remote tram or bus stop. Look for blue-on-white Parcazur signs (find locations at www.lignesdazur.com), and ride the bus or tram into town (10/hour, 15 minutes, must buy round-trip tram or bus ticket and keep it with you because you’ll need it later to exit the parking lot; for details on riding the tram, see “Getting Around Nice,” later). The easiest lot to use is Parcazur Henri Sappia, right off the Nice Nord autoroute exit—it always has room and saves you from navigating city streets (daily until 2:30). As lots are unguarded, don’t leave anything of value in your car.
By Plane: For information on Nice’s airport, see “Nice Connections” on here.
Theft Alert: Nice has its share of pickpockets (especially at the train station, on the tram, and trolling the beach). Stick to main streets in Vieux Nice after dark.
Sightseeing Tips: The Cours Saleya produce and flower market is closed Monday, and the Chagall and Matisse Museums are closed Tuesday. All Nice museums—except the Chagall Museum—share the same €10 combo-ticket (valid 48 hours, €20/7 days, buy at any participating museum).
Baggage Storage: You can store your bags near the train station at the recommended Hôtel Belle Meunière (€5/bag per day) or at the Bag Guys in Vieux Nice (€8/bag per day, daily 10:00-19:00, 22 Rue Centrale, info@bagguys.fr).
Wi-Fi: The city offers free Wi-Fi in the Promenade du Paillon, Place Masséna, Place Garibaldi, and along the Cours Saleya in Vieux Nice (network: Spot Wifi Nice).
Grocery Store: Small grocery shops are easy to find. The big Monoprix on Avenue Jean Médecin and Rue Biscarra has it all (open daily, see map on here).
Boutique Shopping: The chic streets where Rue Alphonse Karr meets Rue de la Liberté and then Rue de Paradis are known as the “Golden Square.” If you need pricey stuff, shop here.
Regional Train Tickets: If station ticket lines are long, you can buy tickets for Riviera destinations at the desk called Guichet Zou Billeterie, near the car rental offices (Mon-Fri 7:30-17:30).
Lignes d’Azur Bus Tickets: The office is located kitty-corner from the train station, where Rue Auber crosses Rue Thiers (closed Sun, 53 Rue Berlioz).
Renting a Bike (and Other Wheels): Bike-rental shops are a breeze to find in Nice, and several companies offer bike tours of the city. Bikes (vélos) can be taken on trains. Holiday Bikes has multiple locations, including one across from the train station, and they have electric bikes (www.loca-bike.fr). Roller Station is well-situated near the sea and rents bikes, rollerblades, skateboards, and Razor-style scooters (bikes-€5/hour, €10/half-day, €15/day, leave ID as deposit, open daily, 49 Quai des Etats-Unis—see map on here, tel. 04 93 62 99 05).
Car Rental: Renting a car is easiest at Nice’s airport, which has offices for all the major companies. Most companies are also represented at Nice’s train station and near the southwest side of Albert I Park.
Views: For panoramic views, climb Castle Hill (see here), or take a one-hour boat trip (here).
Beach Tips: To make life tolerable on the rocks, swimmers should buy a pair of the cheap, plastic beach shoes sold at many shops. Go Sport at #13 on Place Masséna is a good bet (open daily, see map on here). Locals don’t swim in July and August, as the warming sea brings swarms of stinging jellyfish. Ask before you dip.
Although you can walk to most attractions, smart travelers make good use of the buses and tram.
Tickets: Both buses and trams are covered by the same €1.50 single-ride ticket, or you can pay €10 for a 10-ride ticket that can be shared (each use good for 74 minutes in one direction, including transfers between bus and tram). The €5 all-day pass is valid on city buses and trams, as well as buses to some nearby destinations (but not airport buses). You must validate your ticket on every trip. Buy single tickets from the bus driver or from the ticket machines on tram platforms (coins only—press the green button once to validate choice and twice at the end to get your ticket). Passes and 10-ride tickets are also available from machines at tram stops and from the Lignes d’Azur office (see above, under “Helpful Hints”). Info: www.lignesdazur.com.
Buses: The bus is handy for reaching the Chagall and Matisse museums (for specifics, see museum listings under “Sights in Nice”), and the Russian Cathedral. Validate your ticket in the machine—watch locals to learn how. Route diagrams in the buses identify each stop.
Trams: Nice has a single modern and efficient L-shaped tram line. Trams run every few minutes along Avenue Jean Médecin and Boulevard Jean Jaurès, and connect the main train station with Place Masséna and Vieux Nice (Opéra stop), the port (Place Garibaldi stop), and buses east along the coast (Vauban stop). Trams also stop near the Chemins de Fer de Provence train station (Libération stop)—the departure point for the scenic narrow-gauge rail journey (see here).
Boarding the tram in the direction of Hôpital Pasteur takes you toward the beach and Vieux Nice (direction: Henri Sappia goes the other way). Validate your ticket on the tram (http://tramway.nice.fr).
While pricey, cabs can be useful for getting to Nice’s less-central sights (figure €8 for shortest ride, €15 from Promenade des Anglais to the Chagall Museum). Cabbies normally pick up only at taxi stands (tête de station), or you can call 04 93 13 78 78.
Uber works here like it does at home (including your US app and account), and is generally a better bet than taking taxis. Drivers are nicer and more flexible, it’s cheaper, and you can generally get a car within five minutes. Uber drivers find you and pick you up anywhere, so you don’t have to track down a taxi stand.
Nice is perfectly situated for exploring the Riviera by public transport. Monaco, Eze-le-Village, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Antibes, Vence, and St-Paul-de-Vence are all within about a one-hour bus or train ride. With a little planning, you can link key destinations in an all-day circuit. For example: Nice, Monaco, and Eze-le-Village or La Turbie, then loop back to Nice (see here for details). For a summary of train and bus connections, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” sidebar on here; see also “Nice Connections” on here.
Trains serving Nice arrive at and depart from Nice-Ville Station. To connect to regional destinations, use the following east and westbound bus stops (see maps on here and here for stop locations; www.lignesdazur.com).
Eastbound Buses: Due to tram line construction, expect some changes to bus stops. The closest stop for eastbound buses is at the Garibaldi tram stop, near Place Garibaldi (see map on here). Bus #81 to Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat likely stops only at the Promenade des Arts stop by the Modern Art Museum and at the port. Bus #100 to Monaco likely stops only at the port. Ask at the TI if a closer bus stop is available. Buses to Eze-le-Village and La Turbie leave from the Vauban tram stop. Use the tram to reach any of these eastbound buses (free transfer to all of these destinations, except Monaco).
Westbound Buses: To St-Paul-de-Vence, Vence, Cannes, and Antibes, use the Albert I/Verdun stop on Avenue de Verdun, a 10-minute walk along the parkway west of Place Masséna. See map on here.
In summer, Trans Côte d’Azur offers scenic trips several days a week from Nice to Monaco. Boats to Monaco depart at 9:30 and 16:00, and return at 11:00 and 18:00 (€39 round-trip, €32 if you don’t get off in Monaco, 45 minutes each way, June-Sept Tue, Thu, and Sat only). Drinks and WCs are available on board.
Reservations are required (tel. 04 92 00 42 30, www.trans-cote-azur.com). Boats leave from Nice’s port, Bassin des Amiraux, just below Castle Hill—look for the ticket booth (billeterie) on Quai de Lunel (see map on here). The same company also runs one-hour round-trip cruises along the coast to Cap Ferrat (see listing under “Tours in Nice,” next).
Le Grand Tour Bus provides a 14-stop, hop-on, hop-off service on an open-deck bus with headphone commentary. The route includes the Promenade des Anglais, the old port, Cap de Nice, and the Chagall and Matisse museums (1-day pass-€23, 2-day pass-€26, night tour-€15, buy tickets on bus, 2/hour, daily 10:00-19:00, 1.5-hour loop, main stop near where Promenade des Anglais and Quai des Etats-Unis meet—across from the Plage Beau Rivage lounge, tel. 04 92 29 17 00, www.nicelegrandtour.com). While neither an economical nor efficient way to get to the Chagall and Matisse museums, it works if you’re looking for a city overview.
For €10, you can spend 45 minutes on the tourist train tooting along the promenade, through the old city, and up to Castle Hill (2/hour, daily 10:00-18:00 or 19:00, recorded English commentary, meet train near Le Grand Tour Bus stop on Quai des Etats-Unis, tel. 02 99 88 47 07).
To see Nice from the water, hop on this one-hour tour run by Trans Côte d’Azur. You’ll cruise in a comfortable yacht-size vessel to Cap Ferrat and past Villefranche-sur-Mer, then return to Nice with a final lap along Promenade des Anglais.
Guides play Robin Leach (in French and English), pointing out mansions owned by famous people, including Elton John, Sean Connery, and Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen (€19, covered by French Riviera Pass—see here; April-Oct Tue-Sun 2/day, usually at 11:00 and 15:00, no boats Mon or in off-season; verify schedule, arrive 30 minutes early to get best seats; for directions to the dock and contact information, see “Getting Around the Riviera from Nice—By Boat,” earlier).
If interested in hiring a local guide for Nice and other regional destinations, see here for suggestions.
The TI on Promenade des Anglais organizes weekly walking tours of Vieux Nice in French and English (€12, May-Oct only, usually Sat morning at 9:30, 2.5 hours, reservations necessary, depart from TI, tel. 08 92 70 74 07). They also have evening art walks on Fridays at 19:00.
Charming Canadian Francophile Rosa Jackson—a food journalist, Cordon Bleu-trained cook, and longtime resident of France—runs a cooking school, Les Petits Farcis, and offers a good food-market tour in Vieux Nice (€75/person). She also teaches a variety of cooking classes that include a morning shopping trip to the market on Cours Saleya and an afternoon cooking session (€195/person, 12 Rue Saint Joseph, tel. 06 81 67 41 22, www.petitsfarcis.com).
(See “Nice” map, here.)
This leisurely, level self-guided walk, worth ▲▲▲, is a straight line along this much-strolled beachfront. It begins near the landmark Hôtel Negresco and ends just before Castle Hill. While this one-mile section is enjoyable at any time, the first half makes a great stroll before or after breakfast or dinner (meals served at some beach cafés). If extending this stroll to Castle Hill, it’s ideal to time things so you wind up on top of the hill at sunset. Allow one hour at a promenade pace to reach the elevator up to Castle Hill. To trace the route of this walk, see the map on here.
Biking the Promenade: To rev up the pace of your promenade saunter, rent a bike and glide along the coast in either or both directions (about 30 minutes each way; for rental info see here). The path to the west stops just before the airport at perhaps the most scenic boules courts in France (for more on this game, see here). If you take the path heading east, you’ll round Castle Hill to the harbor of Nice, with a chance to survey some fancy yachts.
• Start your walk at the pink-domed...
Nice’s finest hotel is also a historic monument, offering up the city’s most expensive beds and a museum-like interior. If you wonder why such a grand hotel has such an understated entry, it’s because today’s front door was originally the back door. In the 19th century, elegant people stayed out of the sun, and any posh hotel that cared about its clientele would design its entry on the shady north side. If you walk around to the back you’ll see a grand but unused front door.
The hotel is technically off-limits to non-guests, but if you explain to the doorman that you’d like to shop at their store or get a drink at Negresco’s Bar (opens 11:30 in high season, 14:30 in off-season), you may be allowed past the registration desk.
If you do get in, walk straight until you reach a huge ballroom, the Salon Royal. The chandelier hanging from its Eiffel-built dome is made of 16,000 pieces of crystal. It was built in France for the Russian czar’s Moscow palace...but thanks to the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, he couldn’t take delivery. Bronze portrait busts of Czar Alexander III and his wife, Maria Feodorovna—who returned to her native Denmark after the revolution—are to the right, facing the shops. Circle the interior and then the perimeter to enjoy both historic and modern art. Fine portraits include Emperor Napoleon III and wife Empress Eugénie (who acquired Nice for France from Italy in 1860), and Jeanne Augier (who owns the hotel).
• Across the street from the Hôtel Negresco to the east is...
When Nice became part of France, France invested heavily in what it expected to be the country’s new high-society retreat—an elite resort akin to Russia’s Sochi. The government built this fine palace for the military hero of the Napoleonic age, Jean-Andre Masséna, and his family. Take a moment to stroll around the lovely garden (free, open daily 10:00-18:00). The Masséna Museum inside (described on here) offers an interesting look at belle-époque Nice.
• From Villa Masséna, head for the beach and begin your Promenade des Anglais stroll. But first, grab a blue chair and gaze out to the...
Face the water. The body of Nice’s patron saint, Réparate, was supposedly escorted into this bay by angels in the fourth century. To your right is where you might have been escorted into France—Nice’s airport, built on a massive landfill. The tip of land beyond the runway is Cap d’Antibes. Until 1860, Antibes and Nice were in different countries—Antibes was French, but Nice was a protectorate of the Italian kingdom of Savoy-Piedmont, a.k.a. the Kingdom of Sardinia. During that period, the Var River—just west of Nice—was the geographic border between these two peoples (and to this day the river functions as a kind of cultural border). In 1850 the people here spoke Italian and ate pasta. As Italy was uniting, the region was given a choice: Join the new country of Italy or join France (which was enjoying prosperous times under the rule of Napoleon III). The vast majority voted in 1860 to go French...and voilà! (While that was the official story, in reality the Italian king needed France’s support in helping Italian regions controlled by Austria break away to join the emerging union of Italian states. Italy’s price for France’s support against Austria: the city and region of Nice.)
The lower green hill to your left is Castle Hill (the end of this walk). Farther left lie Villefranche-sur-Mer and Cap Ferrat (marked by the tower at land’s end, and home to lots of millionaires), then Monaco (which you can’t see, with more millionaires), then Italy. Behind you are the foothills of the Alps, which trap threatening clouds, ensuring that the Côte d’Azur enjoys sunshine more than 300 days each year. While half a million people live here, pollution is carefully treated—the water is routinely tested and is very clean. But with climate change, the warmer water is attracting jellyfish in the summer, making swimming a stinging memory.
• With the sea on your right, begin strolling.
Nearby sit two fine belle-époque establishments: the West End and Westminster hotels, both boasting English names to help those original guests feel at home (the West End is now part of the Best Western group...to help American guests feel at home). These hotels symbolize Nice’s arrival as a tourist mecca in the 19th century, when the combination of leisure time and a stable economy allowed visitors to find the sun even in winter.
Along the first portion of this promenade, you may notice memorials commemorating those who died in the July 2016 terror attack here. As you walk, be careful to avoid the green bike lane. The promenade you’re walking on was originally much narrower. It’s been widened over the years to keep up with tourist demand, including increased bicycle use.
You’ll pass a number of separate rocky beaches. You can go local and rent gear—about €16 for a chaise longue (long chair) and a transat (mattress), €6 for an umbrella, and €6 for a towel. You’ll also pass several beach restaurants. Some of these eateries serve breakfast, all serve lunch, some do dinner, and a few have beachy bars...tailor-made for a break from this walk.
Find the easel showing a painting of La Jetée Promenade. Even a hundred years ago, there was sufficient tourism in Nice to justify building its first casino (a leisure activity imported from Venice). Part of an elegant casino, La Jetée Promenade stood on those white-covered pilings (with flags flapping) just offshore, until the Germans destroyed it during World War II. When La Jetée was thriving, it took gamblers two full days to get to the Riviera by train from Paris. The painting shows how much of an event strolling the Promenade was—like going to the Opera, it was all about dressing up, being seen, and looking good.
Although La Jetée Promenade is gone, you can still see the striking 1927 Art Nouveau facade of the Palais de la Méditerranée, a grand casino, hotel, and theater. It became one of the grandest casinos in Europe, and today is one of France’s most exclusive hotels, though the casino feels cheap and cheesy, and the architecture overbearing.
The unappealing Casino Ruhl (with the most detested facade on the strip) disfigures the next block. Anyone can drop in for some one-armed-bandit fun, but to play the tables at night you’ll need to dress up and bring your passport.
Albert I Park is named for the Belgian king who enjoyed wintering here—these were his private gardens. While the English came first, the Belgians and Russians were also big fans of 19th-century Nice. That tall statue at the edge of the park commemorates the 100-year anniversary of Nice’s union with France. The happy statue features two beloved women embracing the idea of union (Marianne—Ms. Liberty, Equality, and Brotherhood, and the symbol of the Republic of France—and Catherine Ségurane, a 16th-century heroine who helped Nice against the Saracen pirates).
The park is a long, winding greenbelt called the Promenade du Paillon. The Paillon River flows under the park on its way to the sea. This is the historical divide between Vieux Nice and the new town. Continue along, past the vintage belle-époque carousel. You’re now on Quai des Etats-Unis (“Quay of the United States”). This name was given as a tip-of-the-cap to the Americans for finally entering World War I in 1917. The big, blue chair statue celebrates the inviting symbol of this venerable walk and kicks off the best stretch of beach—quieter and with less traffic. Check out the laid-back couches at the Plage Beau Rivage lounge and consider a beachfront drink.
Those tall, rusted steel girders reaching for the sky were erected in 2010 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Nice’s union with France. (The seven beams represent the seven valleys of the Nice region.) Done by the same artist who created the popular Arc of the Riviera sculpture in the parkway near Place Masséna, this “art” justifiably infuriates many locals as an ugly waste of money.
A block ahead, on the left, the elegant back side of Nice’s opera house faces the sea. In front of it, a tiny bronze Statue of Liberty reminds all that this stretch of seafront promenade is named for the USA. The long, low building lining the walk on the left once served the city’s fishermen. Behind its gates bustles the Cours Saleya Market—long the heart and soul of Vieux Nice, with handy WCs under its arches.
Farther along, on the far right side of the Quai des Etats-Unis, find the three-foot-tall white metal winch. It’s a reminder that long before tourism and long before Nice dredged its harbor, hard-working fishing boats, rather than vacationing tourists, lined the beach. The boats were hauled in through the surf by winches like this and tied to the iron rings on either side.
• Your walk is over. From here you have several great options: Continue 10 minutes along the coast to the port, around the foot of Castle Hill (fine views of the entire promenade and a monumental war memorial carved into the hillside); hike or ride the elevator up to Castle Hill (catch the elevator next to Hôtel Suisse, see listing for Castle Hill on here); head into the old town (you can follow my “Old Nice Walk,” next); or grab a blue chair or piece of beach and just be on vacation—Riviera style.
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
This self-guided walk through Nice’s old town, known as Vieux Nice, gives you a helpful introduction to the city’s bicultural heritage and its most interesting neighborhoods. Allow about an hour at a leisurely pace for this level walk from Place Masséna to Place Rossetti (rated ▲▲). It’s best done in the morning (while the outdoor market thrives), and preferably not on a Sunday, when things are quiet. This ramble is also a joy at night, when fountains glow and pedestrians control the streets.
• Start where Avenue Jean Médecin hits the people-friendly Place Masséna—the successful result of a long, expensive city upgrade and the new center of Nice.
The grand Place Masséna is Nice’s drawing room, where old meets new, and where the tramway bends between Vieux (Old) Nice and the train station. The square’s black-and-white pavement feels like an elegant outdoor ballroom, with the sleek tram waltzing across its dance floor. While once congested with cars, the square today is frequented only by these trams, which swoosh silently by every couple of minutes. The men on pedestals sitting high above are modern-art additions that arrived with the tram. For a mood-altering experience, return after dark and watch the illuminated figures float yoga-like above. Place Masséna is at its sophisticated best after the sun goes down.
This vast square dates from 1848 and pays tribute to Jean-André Masséna, a French military leader during the Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars. Not just another pretty face in a long lineup of French military heroes, he’s considered among the greatest commanders in history—anywhere, anytime. Napoleon called him “the greatest name of my military Empire.” No wonder this city is proud of him.
Standing on the square with your back to the fountains, start a clockwise spin tour: The towering modern swoosh sculpture in the park is meant to represent the “curve of the French Riviera”—the arc of the bay. To the right stretches modern Nice, born with the arrival of tourism in the 1800s. Avenue Jean Médecin, Nice’s main street, cuts from here through the new town to the train station. In the distance are the tracks, the freeway, and the Alps beyond. Once crammed with cars, buses, and delivery vehicles tangling with pedestrians, Avenue Jean Médecin was turned into a walking and cycling nirvana in 2007. I used to avoid this street. Now I can’t get enough of it. Businesses along it flourish in the welcoming environment of generous sidewalks and no traffic.
Appreciate the city’s Italian heritage—it feels as much like Venice as Paris. The portico flanking Avenue Jean Médecin is Italian, not French. The rich colors of the buildings reflect the taste of previous Italian rulers.
Turn to the fountains and look east to see Nice’s ongoing effort to “put the human element into the heart of the town.” An ugly concrete bus station and parking structure were demolished not long ago, and the Promenade du Paillon was created to fill the space. Today, this pedestrian-friendly parkway extends from the sea to the Museum of Modern Art—a modern-day Promenade des Anglais. Forming a key spine for biking, walking, and kids at play, this ambitious 30-acre project is another example of Nice’s determination to make its urban center more livable. Notice the fountain—its surprise geysers delight children by day and its fine lighting enhances romance at night. Beyond the fountain stands a bronze statue of the square’s namesake, Masséna. The hills beyond separate Nice from Villefranche-sur-Mer. A stroll down the Promenade du Paillon is a delight any time of day.
Turn farther to the right to see the old town, with its jumbled and colorful facades below Castle Hill. The statue of Apollo has horsy hair and holds a beach towel, as if to say, “It’s beer o’clock, let’s go.”
• Walk past Apollo into the old town. A block down Rue de l’Opéra, you’ll see a grouping of rusted beams (described on here). Turn left onto Rue St. François de Paule.
This colorful street leads into the heart of Vieux Nice. On the left is the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall). Peer into the Alziari olive oil shop (at #14 on the right). Dating from 1868, the shop produces top-quality stone-ground olive oil. The proud and charming owner, Gilles Piot, claims that stone wheels create less acidity, since metal grinding builds up heat (see photo in back over the door). Locals fill their own containers from the huge vats.
La Couqueto is a colorful shop filled with Provençal handicrafts, including lovely folk characters (santons). Walk in for a lavender smell sensation—is madame working the sewing machine upstairs?
Next door is Nice’s grand opera house. Imagine this opulent jewel back in the 19th century, buried deep in the old town of Nice. With all the fancy big-city folks wintering here, this rough-edged town needed some high-class entertainment. And Victorians needed an alternative to those “devilish” gambling houses. (Queen Victoria, so disgusted at casinos, would actually close the drapes on her train window when passing Monte Carlo.) The four statues on top represent theater, dance, music, and party poopers.
Across the street, Pâtisserie Auer’s grand old storefront would love to tempt you with chocolates and candied fruits. It’s changed little over the centuries. The writing on the window says, “Since 1820 from father to son.” The gold royal shields on the back wall remind shoppers that Queen Victoria indulged her sweet tooth here.
• Continue on, sifting your way through a cluttered block of tacky souvenir shops to the big market square.
Named for its broad exposure to the sun (soleil), Cours Saleya (koor sah-lay-yuh)—a commotion of color, sights, smells, and people—has been Nice’s main market square since the Middle Ages (flower market all day Tue-Sun, produce market Tue-Sun until 13:00, antiques on Mon). While you’re greeted by the ugly mouth of an underground parking lot, much of this square itself was a parking lot until 1980, when the mayor of Nice had this solution dug.
The first section is devoted to the Riviera’s largest flower market. In operation since the 19th century, this market offers plants and flowers that grow effortlessly and ubiquitously in this climate, including the local favorites: carnations, roses, and jasmine. Locals know the season by what’s on sale (mimosas in February, violets in March, and so on). Until the recent rise in imported flowers, this region supplied all of France with flowers. Still, fresh flowers are cheap here, the best value in this notoriously expensive city. The Riviera’s three big industries are tourism, flowers, and perfume (made from these flowers...take a whiff).
The boisterous produce section trumpets the season with mushrooms, strawberries, white asparagus, zucchini flowers, and more—whatever’s fresh gets top billing. What’s in season today?
The market opens up at Place Pierre Gautier. It’s also called Plassa dou Gouvernou—you’ll see bilingual street signs here that include the old Niçois language, an Italian dialect. This is where farmers set up stalls to sell their produce and herbs directly.
Look up to the hill that dominates to the east. In the Middle Ages, a massive castle stood there with soldiers at the ready. Over time, the city grew down to where you are now. With the river guarding one side (running under today’s Promenade du Paillon parkway) and the sea the other, this mountain fortress seemed strong—until Louis XIV leveled it in 1706. Nice’s medieval seawall ran along the line of two-story buildings where you’re standing.
Now, look across Place Pierre Gautier to the large “palace.” The Ducal Palace was where the kings of Sardinia, the city’s Italian rulers until 1860, resided when in Nice. (For centuries, Nice was under the rule of the Italian capital of Torino.) Today, the palace is the local police headquarters. The land upon which the Cours Saleya sits was once the duke’s gardens and didn’t become a market until Nice’s union with France.
• Continue down Cours Saleya. The faded golden building that seals the end of the square is where Henri Matisse spent 17 years. I imagine he was inspired by his view. The Café les Ponchettes is perfectly positioned for you to enjoy the view too if you want a coffee break. At the café, turn onto...
Look up at the first floor of the first building on your right. Adam and Eve are squaring off, each holding a zucchini-like gourd. This scene represents the annual rapprochement in Nice to make up for the sins of a too-much-fun Carnival (Mardi Gras, the pre-Lenten festival). Residents of Nice have partied hard during Carnival for more than 700 years.
Next, check out the small Baroque church (Notre-Dame de l’Annonciation) dedicated to Ste. Rita, the patron saint of desperate causes and desperate people (see display in window). She holds a special place in locals’ hearts, making this the most popular church in Nice. Drop in for a peek at the dazzling Baroque. Inside, the first chapel on the right is dedicated to St. Erasmus, protector of mariners.
• Turn right on the next street, where you’ll pass Vieux Nice’s most happening bar (Distilleries Ideales), with a Pirates of the Caribbean-style interior. Pause at the next corner and simply study the classic Vieux Nice scene. Now turn left on Rue Droite and enter an area that feels like Little Naples.
In the Middle Ages, this straight, skinny street provided the most direct route from river to sea within the old walled town. Pass the recommended restaurant L’Acchiardo. Notice stepped lanes leading uphill to the castle. Stop at Espuno’s bakery (at Place du Jésus) and say “Bonjour, what’s cooking?” to Natalie from England and her husband, Fabrice, who’s from here. Notice the firewood stacked behind the oven. Try the house specialty, tourte aux blettes (sweet or savory)—a tart stuffed with Swiss chard, apples, pine nuts, and raisins. Ask if Fabrice is making scones.
Pop into the Jesuit Eglise St-Jacques (also called Eglise du Gésu) for an explosion of Baroque exuberance hidden behind that plain facade.
We’re turning left onto Rue Rosetti...but if you continued another block along Rue Droite you’d find the Palais Lascaris (c. 1647), home of one of Nice’s most prestigious families. Today it’s a museum (covered by Nice museum combo-ticket and worth a quick look). Inside you’ll find a collection of antique musical instruments—harps, guitars, violins, and violas (good English explanations) along with elaborate tapestries and a few well-furnished rooms. The palace has four levels: The ground floor was used for storage, the first floor was devoted to reception rooms (and musical events), the owners lived a floor above that, and the servants lived at the top. Look up and make faces back at the guys under the balconies.
• You’ll cross Rue Benoît shortly after making a left on Rue Rosetti.
In the 18th century, Rue Benoît served as a ghetto for Nice’s Jews. At sunset, gates would seal the street at either end, locking people in until daylight. To identify Jews as non-Christians, the men were forced to wear yellow stars and the women wore yellow scarves. The white columns across from #19 mark what was the synagogue until 1848, when revolution ended the notion of ghettos in France.
• Continue down Rue Rosetti to...
The most Italian of Nice’s piazzas, Place Rossetti comes alive after dark—in part because of the Fenocchio gelato shop, popular for its many innovative flavors.
Check out the Cathedral of St. Réparate—an unassuming building for a big city cathedral. It was relocated here in the 1500s, when Castle Hill was temporarily converted to military use only. The name comes from Nice’s patron saint, a teenage virgin named Réparate, whose martyred body, accompanied by angels, floated to Nice in the fourth century. The beautiful interior is worth a wander.
• This is the end of our walk. From here you can hike up Castle Hill (from Place Rossetti, take Rue Rossetti uphill; see Castle Hill listing on here). Or you can have an ice cream and browse the colorful lanes of Vieux Nice. Or you can grab Apollo and hit the beach.
Some of Nice’s top attractions—the Promenade des Anglais, the beach, and the old town—are covered earlier in my self-guided walks. But Nice offers some worthwhile sights as well.
All of Nice’s museums (except the Chagall Museum) share the same €10 combo-ticket (valid 48 hours, €20/7 days, buy at any participating museum). The Chagall Museum is a separate €8 admission (and well worth it).
The first two museums (Chagall and Matisse) are a long walk northeast of Nice’s city center. Because they’re in the same direction and served by the same bus line (see below), try to visit them on the same trip. From Place Masséna, the Chagall Museum is a 10-minute bus ride, and the Matisse Museum is a few stops beyond that.
Even if you don’t get modern art, this museum—with the world’s largest collection of Marc Chagall’s work in captivity—is a delight. After World War II, Chagall returned from the United States to settle in Vence, not far from Nice. Between 1954 and 1967 he painted a cycle of 17 large murals designed for, and donated to, this museum. These paintings, inspired by the biblical books of Genesis, Exodus, and the Song of Songs, make up the “nave,” or core, of what Chagall called the “House of Brotherhood.”
Cost and Hours: €8, €1-2 more with special exhibits, includes audioguide, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, Nov-April until 17:00, closed Tue year-round, Avenue Docteur Ménard, tel. 04 93 53 87 20, http://en.musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr. An idyllic $ café awaits in the corner of the garden.
Getting There: Taxis to and from the city center cost about €12. Buses connect the museum with downtown Nice and the train station. From downtown, catch bus #15 (Mon-Sat 6/hour, 10 minutes; on Sun take bus #22). Catch either bus from the east end of the Galeries Lafayette department store, near the Masséna tram stop, on Rue Sacha Guitry (see map on here). Watch for a Musée Chagall sign on the bus shelter where you’ll get off (on Boulevard de Cimiez).
Visiting the Museum: This small museum consists of six rooms: two rooms (the main hall and Song of Songs room) with the 17 murals, two rooms for special exhibits, an auditorium with stained-glass windows, and a mosaic-lined pond (viewed from inside).
In the main hall you’ll find the core of the collection (Genesis and Exodus scenes). Each painting is a lighter-than-air collage of images that draws from Chagall’s Russian folk-village youth, his Jewish heritage, biblical themes, and his feeling that he existed somewhere between heaven and earth. He believed that the Bible was a synonym for nature, and that color and biblical themes were key to understanding God’s love for his creation. Chagall’s brilliant blues and reds celebrate nature, as do his spiritual and folk themes. Notice the focus on couples. To Chagall, humans loving each other mirrored God’s love of creation. The painted harpsichord is the latest addition to the museum.
The adjacent octagonal room houses five more paintings. The paintings in this room were inspired by the Old Testament Song of Songs. Chagall was one of the few “serious” 20th-century artists to portray unabashed love. Where the Bible uses the metaphor of earthly, physical, sexual love to describe God’s love for humans, Chagall uses unearthly colors and a mystical ambience to celebrate human love. These red-toned canvases are hard to interpret literally, but they capture the rosy spirit of a man in love with life.
Back near the entry, the wall mosaic reflected in the pond evokes the prophet Elijah in his chariot of fire (from the Second Book of Kings)—with Chagall’s own addition of the 12 signs of the zodiac, which he used to symbolize time.
The auditorium is worth a peaceful moment to enjoy three Chagall stained-glass windows depicting the seven days of creation. This is also where you’ll find a wonderful film (52 minutes) on Chagall, which plays at the top of each hour (not available during special exhibits).
Leaving the Museum: From here, you can return to downtown Nice or the train station area, or go to the Matisse Museum. Taxis usually wait in front of the museum. For the bus back to downtown Nice, turn right out of the museum, then make another right down Boulevard de Cimiez, and ride bus #15 or #22 heading downhill. To continue on to the Matisse Museum, catch #15 or #22 using the uphill stop located across the street. To walk to the train station area from the museum takes about 20 minutes (turn left out of the museum, take your first left, and then go left down the path at the green wall then cross under the highway).
This small and neglected little museum, which fills an old mansion in a park surrounded by scant Roman ruins, contains a sampling of works from the various periods of Henri Matisse’s artistic career. The museum offers an introduction to the artist’s many styles and materials, both shaped by Mediterranean light and by fellow Côte d’Azur artists Picasso and Renoir.
Matisse, the master of leaving things out, could suggest a woman’s body with a single curvy line—letting the viewer’s mind fill in the rest. Ignoring traditional 3-D perspective, he expressed his passion for life through simplified but recognizable scenes in which dark outlines and saturated, bright blocks of color create an overall decorative pattern. As you tour the museum, look for Matisse’s favorite motifs—including fruit, flowers, wallpaper, and sunny rooms—often with a window opening onto a sunny landscape. Another favorite subject is the odalisque (harem concubine), usually shown sprawled in a seductive pose and with a simplified, masklike face. You’ll also see a few souvenirs from his travels, which influenced much of his work.
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice combo-ticket—described earlier, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, 164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, tel. 04 93 81 08 08, www.musee-matisse-nice.org.
Getting There: Take a cab (€15 from Promenade des Anglais). Alternately, hop bus #15 Mon-Sat or #22 on Sun (see getting to Chagall Museum above; from train station catch #17). Get off at the Arènes-Matisse bus stop (look for the crumbling Roman arena), then walk 50 yards into the park to find the pink villa.
Leaving the Museum: Turn left from the museum into the park, exiting at the Archaeological Museum, and turn right at the street. The bus stop across the street is for bus #17, which goes to the train station, and #20, which heads to the port. For buses #15 and #22 (frequent service to downtown and the Chagall Museum), continue to walk—with the Roman ruins on your right—to the small roundabout, and find the shelter (facing downhill).
This ultramodern museum features an explosively colorful, far-out, yet manageable collection focused on American and European-American artists from the 1960s and 1970s (Pop Art and New Realism are highlighted). The exhibits cover three floors and include a few works by Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Jean Tinguely, and images of Christo’s famous wrappings. You’ll find rooms dedicated to Robert Indiana, Yves Klein, and Niki de Saint Phalle. Don’t leave without exploring the views from the rooftop terrace.
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice combo-ticket, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, near Vieux Nice on Promenade des Arts, tel. 04 93 62 61 62, www.mamac-nice.org.
Housed in a sumptuous Riviera villa with lovely gardens, this museum holds 6,000 artworks from the 17th to 20th centuries. Start on the first floor and work your way up to enjoy paintings by Monet, Sisley, Bonnard, and Raoul Dufy, as well as a few sculptures by Rodin and Carpeaux.
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice combo-ticket, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon; inconveniently located at the western end of Nice, take bus #12 from train station to Rosa Bonheur stop and walk to 3 Avenue des Baumettes; tel. 04 92 15 28 28, www.musee-beaux-arts-nice.org.
This museum displays various objects from the Romans’ occupation of this region. It’s convenient—just below the Matisse Museum—but has little of interest to anyone but ancient Rome aficionados.
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice combo-ticket, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, near Matisse Museum at 160 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, tel. 04 93 81 59 57.
Like Nice’s main square, this museum was named in honor of Jean-André Masséna (born in Antibes), a highly regarded commander during France’s Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars. The beachfront mansion is worth a look for its lavish decor and lovely gardens alone (no English labels in museum, but a €3 booklet in English is available).
Cost and Hours: Covered by €10 Nice combo-ticket, always free to enter gardens, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, 35 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 93 91 19 10.
Nice’s Russian Orthodox church—claimed by some to be the finest outside Russia—is worth a visit. Five hundred rich Russian families wintered in Nice in the late 19th century, and they needed a worthy Orthodox house of worship. Czar Nicholas I’s widow provided the land and Czar Nicholas II gave this church to the Russian community in 1912. (A few years later, Russian comrades who didn’t winter on the Riviera assassinated him.) Here in the land of olives and anchovies, these proud onion domes seem odd. But, I imagine, so did those old Russians.
Pick up an English info sheet on your way in. The one-room interior is filled with icons and candles, and traditional Russian music adds to the ambience. The park around the church makes a fine setting for picnics.
Cost and Hours: Free; Tue-Sun 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, Mon 9:00-12:00; chanted services Sat at 17:30 or 18:00, Sun at 10:00; no tourist visits during services, no shorts, 17 Boulevard du Tzarewitch, tel. 04 93 96 88 02, www.cathedrale-russe-nice.ru/fr.
This hill—in an otherwise flat city center—offers sensational views over Nice, the port (to the east, created for trade and military use in the 15th century), the foothills of the Alps, and the Mediterranean. The views are best early, at sunset, or whenever the weather’s clear.
Nice was founded on this hill. Its residents were crammed onto the hilltop until the 12th century, as it was too risky to live in the flatlands below. Today you’ll find a playground, a café, and a cemetery—but no castle—on Castle Hill.
Cost and Hours: Park is free and closes at 20:00 in summer, earlier off-season.
Getting There: You can get to the top by foot, by elevator (free, daily 10:00-19:00, until 20:00 in summer, next to beachfront Hôtel Suisse), or by pricey tourist train (see here).
See the “Promenade des Anglais Walk” on here for a pleasant stroll that ends near Castle Hill.
Leaving Castle Hill: After enjoying the views and hilltop fun, you can walk via the cemetery directly down into Vieux Nice (just follow the signs), descend to the beach (via the elevator or a stepped lane next to it), or hike down the back side to Nice’s port (departure point for boat trips and buses to Monaco and Villefranche-sur-Mer).
Leave the tourists behind and take the scenic train-bus-train combination that runs between Nice and Digne through canyons, along whitewater rivers, and through tempting villages (5/day, departs Nice from Chemins de Fer de Provence Station, two blocks from the Libération tram stop, 4 Rue Alfred Binet, tel. 04 97 03 80 80, www.trainprovence.com).
An appealing stop on the scenic railway is little Entrevaux, a good destination that feels forgotten and still stuck in its medieval shell (about €25 round-trip, 1.5 scenic hours from Nice). Cross the bridge, meet someone friendly, and consider the steep hike up to the citadel (€3, TI tel. 04 93 05 46 73). Sisteron’s Romanesque church and the view from the citadel above make this town worth a stop.
The city is a walker’s delight after dark. Promenade des Anglais, Cours Saleya, Vieux Nice, Promenade du Paillon, and Place Masséna are all worth an evening wander. I can’t get enough of the night scene on Place Masséna and around the adjacent fountains.
Nice’s bars play host to a happening late-night scene, filled with jazz, rock, and trolling singles. Most activity focuses on Vieux Nice. Rue de la Préfecture and Place du Palais are ground zero for bar life, though Place Rossetti and Rue Droite are also good targets. Distilleries Ideales is a good place to start or end your evening, with a lively international crowd, a Pirates of the Caribbean interior, and a Cheers vibe (15 beers on tap, where Rue de la Poissonnerie and Rue Barillerie meet, happy hour 18:00-21:00). Wayne’s Bar is a happening spot for the younger, English-speaking backpacker crowd (15 Rue Préfecture; see map on here for both bar locations). Along the Promenade des Anglais, the plush bar at Hôtel Negresco is fancy-cigar old English.
Don’t look for charm in Nice. I prefer to stay in the new town—a 10-minute walk from the old town—for modern, clean, and air-conditioned rooms. The rates listed here are for April through October. Prices generally drop considerably November through March, but go sky-high during the Nice Carnival (two weeks in mid-late-Feb, www.nicecarnaval.com), the Cannes Film Festival (12 days in mid-May, www.festival-cannes.com), and Monaco’s Grand Prix (late May, www.acm.mc). Between the film festival and the Grand Prix, the second half of May is slammed. Nice is also one of Europe’s top convention cities, and June is convention month here. For parking, ask your hotelier, or see “Arrival in Nice—By Car” on here.
The train station area offers Nice’s cheapest sleeps, but the neighborhood can feel seedy after dark. The cheapest places are older, well-worn, and come with some street noise. Places closer to Avenue Jean Médecin are more expensive and in a more comfortable area.
$$ Hôtel Durante*** feels Mediterranean—a happy, orange building with rooms wrapped around a flowery courtyard. All but two of its quiet rooms overlook the well-maintained patio. The rooms are good enough (mostly modern decor), the price is right enough, and the parking is free on a first-come, first-served basis (family rooms, 16 Avenue Durante, tel. 04 93 88 84 40, www.hotel-durante.com, info@hotel-durante.com).
$$ Hôtel Lafayette,*** located a block behind the Galeries Lafayette department store, is a modest, homey place with 17 mostly spacious and good-value rooms (some with thin walls, some traffic noise, all one floor up from the street). It’s family-run by Kiril and George (RS%, no elevator, 32 Rue de l’Hôtel des Postes—see map on here, tel. 04 93 85 17 84, www.hotellafayettenice.com, info@hotellafayettenice.com).
$$ Hôtel St. Georges,** five blocks from the station toward the sea, offers a good location, a pleasant backyard patio, and friendly Houssein at the reception. Rooms are dark and basic but adequate and fairly priced (family rooms, limited parking—book ahead, 7 Avenue Georges Clemenceau, tel. 04 93 88 79 21, www.hotelsaintgeorges.fr, contact@hotelsaintgeorges.fr).
$$$ Hôtel Vendôme*** gives you a whiff of the belle époque, with pink pastels, high ceilings, and grand staircases in a mansion set off the street. The modern rooms come in all sizes; many have balconies (limited pay parking—first-come, first-served; 26 Rue Pastorelli at the corner of Rue Alberti, tel. 04 93 62 00 77, www.hotel-vendome-nice.com, contact@vendome-hotel-nice.com).
$$ Hôtel Ibis Nice Centre Gare,*** 100 yards to the right as you leave the station, provides a secure refuge in this seedy area. It’s big (200 rooms), modern, and a decent value with well-configured rooms, a refreshing pool, and cheap overnight parking (bar, café, 14 Avenue Thiers, tel. 04 93 88 85 85, www.ibishotel.com, h1396@accor.com).
$ Hôtel Belle Meunière,* in an old mansion built for Napoleon III’s mistress, attracts budget-minded travelers of all ages with cheap beds and private rooms a block below the train station. Creaky but well-kept, the place has adequate rooms, thin mattresses, and charismatic Mademoiselle Marie-Pierre presiding with her perfect English (family rooms, dorms, breakfast free if you book directly, no air-con, no elevator, laundry service, limited pay parking, 21 Avenue Durante, tel. 04 93 88 66 15, www.bellemeuniere.com, hotel.belle.meuniere@cegetel.net).
$ B&B Nice Home Sweet Home is a good-budget value. Genevieve (a.k.a. Jennifer) Levert rents out four large rooms and one small single in her home. Her rooms (only one of which has a private bath) are simply decorated, with high ceilings, big windows, and space to spread out (cheaper rooms with shared bath, includes breakfast, elevator, one floor up, pay washer/dryer, kitchen access, 35 Rue Rossini at intersection with Rue Auber, mobile 06 50 83 25 85, www.nicehomesweethome.com, glevert@free.fr).
Hostels: ¢ Auberge de Jeunesse les Camélias is a fun, good-value, and laid-back hostel with a handy location, modern facilities, and lively evening atmosphere (includes breakfast, rooms closed 11:00-15:00 but can leave bags, laundry, kitchen, safes, bar, 3 Rue Spitalieri, tel. 04 93 62 15 54, www.hihostels.com, accueil.nice@hifrance.org).
¢ Villa Saint Exupéry Beach is a hostel-hotel in the center of Nice with a young and friendly vibe, fun bar, cheap restaurant, and beaucoup services including laundry, yoga classes, and scuba diving (no curfew, 6 Rue Sacha Guitry—see map on here, tel. 04 93 16 13 45, www.villahostels.com, beach@villahostels.com).
These Vieux Nice hotels are either on the sea or within an easy walk of it. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$$ Hôtel la Perouse,**** built into the rock of Castle Hill at the east end of the bay, is a fine splurge. This refuge-hotel is top-to-bottom flawless in every detail—from its elegant rooms (satin curtains, velour headboards) and attentive staff to its rooftop terrace with hot tub, sleek pool, and lovely $$$$ garden restaurant. Sleep here to be spoiled and escape the big city (good family options, 11 Quai Rauba Capeu, tel. 04 93 62 34 63, www.hotel-la-perouse.com, lp@hotel-la-perouse.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Suisse,**** below Castle Hill, has Nice’s best sea and city views for the money, and is surprisingly quiet given the busy street below. Rooms are comfortable and the decor is tasteful, but the service feels impersonal. Sleep elsewhere if you don’t land a view (most view rooms have balconies, 15 Quai Rauba Capeu, tel. 04 92 17 39 00, www.hotels-ocre-azur.com, hotel.suisse@hotels-ocre-azur.com).
$$$ Hôtel Albert 1er*** is a fair deal in a great location on Albert I Park, two blocks from the beach and Place Masséna. The staff is formal and the rooms are well-appointed, with heavy brown tones. Some have views of the bay, others overlook the park, and some have small decks (4 Avenue des Phocéens, tel. 04 93 85 74 01, www.hotelalbert-1er.com, info@hotel-albert1er.com).
$$$ Hôtel Mercure Marché aux Fleurs**** is ideally situated near the sea and Cours Saleya. Rooms are sharp, and prices can be either reasonable or exorbitant (superior rooms worth the extra euros, especially those with views; 91 Quai des Etats-Unis, tel. 04 93 85 74 19, www.hotelmercure.com, h0962@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Mer** is an intimate, 12-room place with an enviable position overlooking Place Masséna, just steps from Vieux Nice. Rooms are modern, comfortable, and well-priced (4 Place Masséna, tel. 04 93 92 09 10, www.hoteldelamernice.com, hotel.mer@wanadoo.fr). They also run the $$$$ Suites Masséna in the same building, with huge, modern, high-ceilinged rooms—designed for two but with room for three (tel. 04 93 13 48 11, www.lessuitesmassena.com).
These hotels are close to the beach. The Negresco and West End are big, vintage Nice hotels that open onto the sea from the heart of the Promenade des Anglais. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$$ Hôtel Negresco***** owns Nice’s most prestigious address on the Promenade des Anglais and knows it. Still, it’s the kind of place that if you were to splurge just once in your life... Rooms are opulent, tips are expected, and it seems the women staying here have cosmetically augmented lips (some view rooms, Old World bar, 37 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 93 16 64 00, www.hotel-negresco-nice.com, reservations@hotel-negresco.com).
$$$$ Hôtel West End**** opens onto the Promenade des Anglais with formal service and decor, classy public spaces, and high prices (some view rooms, 31 Promenade des Anglais, tel. 04 92 14 44 00, www.hotel-westend.com, reservation@westsendnice.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Splendid**** is a worthwhile splurge if you miss your Marriott. The panoramic rooftop pool, bar/restaurant, and breakfast room almost justify the cost...but throw in plush rooms, a free gym, and spa services, and you’re as good as at home (pricey pay parking, 50 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 16 41 00, www.splendid-nice.com, info@splendid-nice.com).
$$$$ Hôtel Villa Victoria**** is a fine place managed by cheery and efficient Marlena, who welcomes travelers into her spotless, classy old building with a spacious, attractive lobby overlooking a sprawling garden-courtyard. Rooms are plush and well-kept (pay parking, 33 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 88 39 60, www.villa-victoria.com, contact@villa-victoria.com).
$$ Hôtel Carlton*** is well-run, unpretentious, and comfortable (26 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 88 87 83, www.hotel-carlton-nice.com, info@hotel-carlton-nice.com).
$$ Hôtel les Cigales,*** a few blocks from the Promenade des Anglais, is a sweet little pastel place with 19 sharp rooms and a nifty upstairs terrace, all well-managed by friendly Stephane, Veronique, and Elaine (RS%, 16 Rue Dalpozzo, tel. 04 97 03 10 70, www.hotel-lescigales.com, info@hotel-lescigales.com).
$$$$ Le Grimaldi,**** a traditional place with an appealing lobby, rents 48 spacious rooms with high ceilings and tasteful decor (big breakfast extra, a few suites and connecting rooms ideal for families, 15 Rue Grimaldi, tel. 04 93 16 00 24, www.le-grimaldi.com, info@le-grimaldi.com).
$$$ Hôtel Gounod*** is behind Hôtel Splendid. Because the two share the same owners, Gounod’s guests are allowed free access to Splendid’s pool, hot tub, and other amenities. Most rooms are quiet, with high ceilings but tired bathrooms (family rooms, pay parking, 3 Rue Gounod, tel. 04 93 16 42 00, www.gounod-nice.com, info@gounod-nice.com).
$$ Hôtel Victor Hugo, a traditional and spotless seven-room hotel, is an adorable time-warp place where Gilles warmly welcomes guests. It’s a short walk from the Promenade des Anglais but a long walk from Vieux Nice. All rooms come with mini kitchenettes (RS%, includes breakfast, 59 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 04 93 88 12 39, www.hotel-victor-hugo-nice.com).
Several airport hotels offer a handy and cheap port-in-the-storm for those with early flights or who are just stopping in for a single night: $$$ Hôtels Campanile (www.campanile.fr) and $$$ Nouvel (www.novotel.com) are closest; $$ Hôtel Ibis Budget Nice Aéroport (www.ibis.com) is a few minutes away. Free shuttles connect these hotels with both airport terminals.
My favorite places to eat out are in Vieux Nice. It’s well worth booking ahead for these spots—even just a day or two does it. If Vieux Nice is too far, I’ve listed some great places handier to your hotel. Promenade des Anglais is ideal for picnic dinners on warm, languid evenings or a meal at a beachside restaurant. For a more romantic (and expensive) meal, head for nearby Villefranche-sur-Mer (see here). Avoid the fun-to-peruse but terribly touristy eateries lining Rue Masséna.
Nice’s dinner scene converges on Cours Saleya, which is entertaining enough in itself to make the generally mediocre food a good deal. It’s a fun, festive spot to compare tans and mussels. Most of my recommendations are on side lanes inland from here. Even if you’re eating elsewhere, wander through here in the evening. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
While local foodies would avoid Cours Saleya like a McDonalds, the energy of wall-to-wall restaurants taking over the old town’s market square each evening is enticing. Here are two good bets—one for local cuisine and the other for pizza.
$$$ Le Safari is a fair option for Niçois cuisine and outdoor dining. This venerable place, convivial and rustic with the coolest interior on the Cours, is packed with locals and tourists, and staffed with hurried waiters (open daily, 1 Cours Saleya, tel. 04 93 80 18 44, www.restaurantsafari.fr).
$ Pizzeria Rossopomodoro is a fun little place serving excellent, wood-fired Naples-style pizzas either inside or on the square (closed Wed and Sun, 26 Cours Saleya, tel. 04 93 80 02 99).
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
$$ L’Acchiardo is a homey eatery that mixes loyal clientele with hungry tourists. As soon as you sit down you know this is a treat. Its simple, hearty Niçois cuisine is served by Monsieur Acchiardo and his good-looking sons Jean-François and Raphael. The small plaque under the menu outside says the restaurant has been run by father and son since 1927 (closed Sat-Sun and Aug, indoor seating only, 38 Rue Droite, tel. 04 93 85 51 16).
$ Chez Palmyre, your best budget bet in the old town, is tiny and popular, so book ahead (two weeks is advised). The ambience is rustic and fun, with people squeezed onto shared tables to enjoy the home-style cooking. Philippe serves everyone his three-course, €17 menu, which changes every two weeks (closed Sat-Sun, 5 Rue Droite, tel. 04 93 85 72 32).
$$$ Bistrot du Fromager, run by brothers crazy about cheese and wine, is a find. Come here to escape the heat and dine in cozy, cool, vaulted cellars surrounded by shelves of wine. Hugo cooks while gregarious Gregoire serves delicious dishes featuring fresh fish, pasta, and ham—most with cheese as a key ingredient. This is a good choice for vegetarians, and for singles who enjoy eating at the counter and watching the chef work (book ahead, closed Sun for dinner, just off Place du Jésus at 29 Rue Benoît Bunico, tel. 04 93 13 07 83).
$$$ Bistrot D’Antoine has street appeal. It’s a warm, popular, vine-draped option whose menu emphasizes Niçois cuisine and good grilled selections. The food is delicious and the prices are reasonable. Call several days ahead to reserve a table—the upstairs room is quieter (closed Sun-Mon, 27 Rue de la Préfecture, tel. 04 93 85 29 57).
$$ La Merenda is a shoebox where you’ll sit on small stools and dine on simple, home-style dishes in a communal environment. The menu changes with the season, but the hardworking owner, Dominique, does not. This place fills fast, so arrive early, or better yet, drop by during lunch to reserve for dinner—there are two seatings at 19:00 and 21:00 (closed Sat-Sun, cash only, 4 Rue Raoul Bosio, no telephone).
$ Lou Pilha Leva delivers fun and cheap lunch or dinner options with Niçois specialties and always-busy, outdoor-only, picnic-table dining (daily, located where Rue de la Loge and Rue Centrale meet).
$$$ Oliviera venerates the French olive. This shop/restaurant serves both oil tastings and a menu of dishes paired with specific oils (like a wine pairing). Owner Nadim speaks excellent English, knows all his producers, and provides “Olive Oil 101” explanations with his tastings (best if you buy something afterward or have a meal). You’ll learn how passionate he is about his products, and once you’ve had a taste, you’ll want to stay and eat—allow €40 with wine (Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Sun-Mon, indoor seating only, 8 bis Rue du Collet, tel. 04 93 13 06 45).
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
$$$$ Restaurant Castel is a fine eat-on-the-beach option, thanks to its location at the very east end of Nice, under Castle Hill. The city vanishes as you step down to the beach. The food is creative and nicely presented, and the tables feel elegant, even at the edge of the sand. Arrive for the sunset and you’ll have an unforgettable meal (open for dinner mid-May-Aug, lunch April-Sept, 8 Quai des Etats-Unis, tel. 04 93 85 22 66, www.castelplage.com). Sunbathers can rent beach chairs and have drinks and meals served literally on the beach (lounge chairs €16/half-day, €19/day).
(See “Vieux Nice Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Gelato lovers should save room for the tempting ice-cream stands in Vieux Nice (open daily until late). Fenocchio is the city’s favorite, with mouthwatering displays of dozens of flavors ranging from lavender to avocado (two locations: 2 Place Rossetti and 6 Rue de la Poissonnerie). Gelato connoisseurs should head for Oui, Jelato, where the quality is the priority rather than the selection (5 Rue de la Préfecture, on the Place du Palais).
(See “Nice Restaurants” map, here.)
An appealing lineup of bistros overflowing with outdoor tables stretches along the broad sidewalk on Rue Biscarra (just east of Avenue Jean Médecin behind Nice Etoile, all closed Sun). Come here to dine with area residents away from the tourists. $$ Le 20 sur Vin is a neighborhood favorite with a cozy, wine-bar-meets-café ambience (tel. 04 93 92 93 20).
(See “Nice Restaurants” map, here.)
$$ Le Luna Rossa is a small neighborhood place serving delicious French-Italian dishes. Owner Christine welcomes diners with attentive service and reasonable prices. Dine inside (classy tables) or outside on a sidewalk terrace (closed Sun-Mon, just north of parkway at 3 Rue Chauvain—see map on here, tel. 04 93 85 55 66).
$$ L’Ovale takes its name from the shape of a rugby ball. Come here for an unpretentious and local café-bistro experience. Young Matthieu serves while David cooks traditional dishes from southwestern France (rich and meaty). Dining is inside only. Consider the cassoulet, the hearty salade de manchons with duck and walnuts, or the €18-23 three-course menus (daily, 29 Rue Pastorelli, tel. 04 93 80 31 65).
$$$ Les 5 Sens (The Five Senses) is a lively, smart, and welcoming bistro serving classic French fare at reasonable prices (daily, 37 Rue Pastorelli, tel. 09 81 06 57 00).
$$$ La Maison de Marie is a surprisingly high-quality refuge off Nice’s touristy restaurant row—Rue Masséna. The interior tables are candlelit, white-tablecloth classy, while the tables in the courtyard are relaxed with a bistro feel. Expect some smokers outside. The menu is a good value (daily, 5 Rue Masséna, tel. 04 93 82 15 93).
(See “Nice Restaurants” map, here.)
Both of these restaurants, a block below the train station, provide good indoor and outdoor seating as well as excellent value.
$ Voyageur Nissart has blended good-value cuisine with friendly service since 1908. Kind owner Max and his able assistant Cédric make great hosts, and the quality of their food makes this place both very popular and a good choice for travelers on a budget (book ahead, leave a message in English). Try anything à la niçoise, including the fine salade niçoise (good €18 three-course menus, inexpensive wines, closed Mon, 19 Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine, tel. 04 93 82 19 60).
$ Zen Japanese Restaurant provides a break from French cuisine. Interior seating is arranged around the chef’s stove, and the tasty specialties draw a strong following (open daily, 27 Rue d’Angleterre, tel. 04 93 82 41 20).
(See “Nice Restaurants” map, here.)
$$$$ Rolancy’s Restaurant & Bistrot des Viviers attract those looking for formal service and authentic Niçois cuisine with a big emphasis on fish. This classy splurge offers two intimate settings: a soft, formal restaurant (menus from €52), and a cozy bistro (€38 menus) with some outdoor seating (closed Sun, 5-minute walk west of Avenue Jean Médecin at 22 Rue Alphonse Karr, tel. 04 93 16 00 48).
$$$ Coco & Rico is a find away from the tourist fray. Kind Isabelle welcomes you to her cozy bistro with homemade dishes. The cuisine and wine list represent many regions of France, with a focus on fish and fresh ingredients (bistro closed Sun-Mon, indoor seating only; wine shop open Tue-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun-Mon; 3 Rue Dalpozzo, tel. 04 83 50 09 60).
$ Crêperie Bretonne is the only crêperie I list in Nice. Dine on the broad terrace or inside with relaxed service and jukebox-meets-gramophone ambience. Their top-end, house-special crêpes are creative and enticing. Split a salad to start—try the goat cheese salad with honey (closed Sun, on Place Grimaldi, tel. 04 93 82 28 47).
For a comparison of train and bus connections from Nice to nearby coastal towns, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” sidebar on here.
Most long-distance train connections to other French cities require a change in Marseille. The Grande Ligne train to Bordeaux (serving Antibes, Cannes, Toulon, and Marseille—and connecting from there to Arles, Nîmes, and Carcassonne) requires a reservation.
From Nice by Train to: Cannes (2/hour, 30 minutes), Antibes (2/hour, 20 minutes), Villefranche-sur-Mer (2/hour, 10 minutes), Eze-le-Village (2/hour, 15 minutes to Eze-Bord-de-Mer, then bus #83 to Eze, 8/day, 15 minutes), Monaco (2/hour, 20 minutes), Menton (2/hour, 25 minutes), Grasse (15/day, 1 hour, better by bus), Marseille (18/day, 2.5 hours), Cassis (hourly, 3 hours, transfer in Toulon or Marseille), Arles (11/day, 4 hours, most require transfer in Marseille or Avignon), Avignon (10/day, most by TGV, 4 hours, many require transfer in Marseille), Paris’ Gare de Lyon (hourly, 6 hours, may require change; 11-hour night train goes to Paris’ Gare d’Austerlitz), Aix-en-Provence TGV Station (10/day, 2-3 hours, usually changes in Marseille), Chamonix (4/day, 10 hours, many change in St-Gervais and Lyon), Beaune (7/day, 7 hours, 1-2 transfers), Florence (6/day, 8 hours, 1-3 transfers), Milan (3 Thello trains/day, 4 hours, www.thello.com), Venice (5/day, 9 hours, all with transfers), Barcelona (1/day via Montpellier, 10 hours, more with multiple changes).
Regardless of length, most one-way rides on regional buses (except express airport buses) cost €1.50. Tickets are good for up to 74 minutes of travel in one direction, including transfers.
From Nice by Bus to: Cannes (#200, 4/hour Mon-Sat, 2/hour Sun, 2 hours), Antibes (#200, 4/hour Mon-Sat, 2/hour Sun, 1.5 hours), Villefranche-sur-Mer (#100, 3-4/hour, 20 minutes; or #81, 2-3/hour, 20 minutes), St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (#81, 2-3/hour, 30 minutes), Eze-le-Village (#82 or #112, 16/day Mon-Sat, 8/day Sun, 40 minutes), La Turbie (6/day, 45 minutes, Mon-Sat #116 from Vauban tram stop, Sun #T-66 from Pont St. Michel tram stop), Monaco (#100, 3-4/hour, 45 minutes), Menton (#100, 3-4/hour, 1.5 hours), St-Paul-de-Vence (#400, 2/hour, 45 minutes), Vence (#400, 2/hour, 50 minutes), Grasse (#500, 2/hour, 1 hour).
Nice’s easy-to-navigate airport (Aéroport de Nice Côte d’Azur, airport code: NCE) is literally on the Mediterranean—with landfill runways—a 30-minute drive west of the city center. Planes leave roughly hourly for Paris (one-hour flight, about the same price as a train ticket, check www.easyjet.com for the cheapest flights to Paris’ Orly airport). The two terminals are connected by shuttle buses (navettes). Both terminals have TIs, banks, ATMs, and buses to Nice (tel. 04 89 88 98 28, www.nice.aeroport.fr).
By Taxi: A taxi into the center is expensive considering the short distance (figure €35 to Nice hotels, €60 to Villefranche-sur-Mer, €70 to Antibes, small fee for bags). Nice’s airport taxis are notorious for overcharging. Before riding, confirm that your fare into town is roughly €35 (or €40 at night or on Sun). Don’t pay much more. It’s always a good idea to ask for a receipt (reçu).
By Airport Shuttle: These work better for trips from your hotel to the airport, since they require you to book a precise pickup time in advance—even though you can’t ever know exactly when your flight will actually arrive. Shuttle vans offer a fixed price (about €30 for one person, a little more for additional people or to Villefranche-sur-Mer). Your hotel can arrange this. Try Nice Airport Shuttle (1-2 people-€32, additional person-€14, mobile 06 60 33 20 54, www.nice-airport-shuttle.com) or Med-Tour (tel. 04 93 82 92 58, mobile 06 73 82 04 10, www.med-tour.com). Several other shuttle options exist.
By Bus: Two bus lines connect the airport with the city center, offering good alternatives to high-priced taxis. Bus #99 (airport express) runs to Nice’s main train station (€6, 2/hour, 8:00-21:00, 30 minutes, drops you within a 10-minute walk of many recommended hotels). To take this bus to the airport, catch it right in front of the train station (departs on the half-hour). If your hotel is within walking distance of the station, #99 is your best budget bet.
Bus #98 runs along Promenade des Anglais and along the edge of Vieux Nice (€6, 3/hour, from the airport 6:00-23:00, to the airport until 21:00, 30 minutes, see map on here for stops).
For all buses, buy tickets from the driver. To reach the bus information office and stops at Terminal 1, turn left after passing customs and exit the doors at the far end. Buses serving Terminal 2 stop across the street from the airport exit (information kiosk and ticket sales to the right as you exit).
To get to Villefranche-sur-Mer from the airport, take bus #98 (described above) to Place Garibaldi. From there, use the same ticket to transfer to bus #81 or #100 (see “Nice Connections—By Bus,” earlier, for bus frequencies and the map on here for stop locations; note that in 2017 you’ll likely need to walk to the Promenade des Arts stop by the Modern Art Museum or to the port to catch eastbound buses due to work on the tram system). Consider an airport shuttle van.
To reach Antibes, take bus #250 from either terminal (about 2/hour, 40 minutes, €10). For Cannes, take bus #210 from either terminal (1-2/hour, 50 minutes on freeway, €20). Express bus #110 runs from the airport directly to Monaco (2/hour, 50 minutes, €20).
Nice’s port is at the eastern edge of the town center, below Castle Hill; the main promenade and old town are on the other side of the hill. Cruise ships dock at either side of the mouth of this port: Terminal 1 to the east, or Terminal 2 to the west.
Getting into the City Center: To reach Vieux Nice or the tram, head to Place Garibaldi by walking or riding the shuttle bus to the top of the port, then angling up Rue Cassini to the square (20-minute walk from either cruise terminal). From here it’s a short walk to Vieux Nice or to the tram stop. You can ride the tram to Place Masséna for the start of my “Old Nice Walk” or to catch a bus to the Chagall or Matisse museums (#15 or #22).
If arriving at Terminal 2 and heading to Vieux Nice, you can skip the walk to Place Garibaldi and stroll directly there by heading around the base of the castle-topped hill, with the sea on your left (10-15 minutes).
Other options to get into town include a taxi from the terminals (about €20 to points within Nice) or the hop-on, hop-off bus, which has a stop at the top of the port (see here).
Getting to Nearby Destinations: To visit Villefranche-sur-Mer or Monaco, it’s best to take bus #100 (the train is faster, but the bus stop is much closer to Nice’s port). The bus stops along the top of the port, near the right end of Place de l’Ile de Beauté (see map on here).
To take the train to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Monaco, Antibes, Cannes, or elsewhere, hop on the tram (stop near Place Garibaldi, described earlier), then ride to the Gare Thiers stop and walk one long block to the main train station. For bus and train connections to nearby destinations, see here.
Taxis at the terminals charge about €40 one-way to Villefranche-sur-Mer, or €95 one-way to Monaco.
In the glitzy world of the Riviera, Villefranche-sur-Mer offers travelers an easygoing slice of small-town Mediterranean life. From here convenient day trips allow you to gamble in Monaco, saunter the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, or enjoy views from Eze-le-Village and the Grande Corniche.
Villefranche-sur-Mer feels more Italian than French, with pastel-orange buildings; steep, narrow lanes spilling into the sea; and pasta on menus. Luxury yachts glisten in the bay. Cruise ships make regular calls to Villefranche-sur-Mer’s deep harbor, creating periodic rush hours of frenetic shoppers and bucket-listers. Sand-pebble beaches, a handful of interesting sights, and quick access to Cap Ferrat keep other visitors just busy enough.
The TI is off the road that runs between Nice and Monaco, located in a park (Jardin François Binon) below the Nice/Monaco bus stop, labeled Octroi (mid-June-mid-Sept daily 9:00-18:00; mid-Sept-mid-June Mon-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sun; tel. 04 93 01 73 68, www.villefranche-sur-mer.com). Pick up regional bus schedules and information on seasonal sightseeing boat rides. The TI has an excellent brochure-map showing seaside walks around neighboring Cap Ferrat and information on the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild’s gardens.
By Bus: Get off at the Octroi stop. To reach the old town, walk downhill past the TI along Avenue Général de Gaulle, take the first stairway on the left, then make a right at the street’s end.
By Train: Not all trains stop in Villefranche-sur-Mer (you may need to transfer to a local train in Nice or Monaco). Villefranche-sur-Mer’s train station is just above the beach, a short stroll from the old town and most of my recommended hotels (or take a taxi for about €15).
By Car: From Nice’s port, follow signs for Menton, Monaco, and Basse Corniche. In Villefranche-sur-Mer, turn right at the TI (first signal after Hôtel la Flore) for parking and hotels. For a quick visit to the TI, park at the pay lot just below the TI (first 20 minutes free; enter license plate number). Some hotels have their own parking. You’ll pay to park in all public parking except during 19:00-9:00 (€15 weekly pass available). The waterfront Wilson parking lot costs €2/hour.
By Plane: Allow an hour from Nice’s airport to Villefranche-sur-Mer (for details on this connection, see here).
Market Day: A fun bric-a-brac market enlivens Villefranche-sur-Mer on Sundays (on Place Amélie Pollonnais by Hôtel Welcome, and in Jardin François Binon by the TI). On Saturday and Wednesday mornings, a small food market sets up in Jardin François Binon. A small trinket market springs to action on Place Amélie Pollonnais whenever cruise ships grace the harbor.
Wi-Fi: There’s free city Wi-Fi at the port. On Place du Marché, both Chez Net and L’X Café have Wi-Fi.
Laundry: A self-serve launderette is just below the main road on Avenue Sadi Carnot (daily 7:00-20:00, opposite #6).
Electric Bike Rental: The adventurous can try Eco-Loc electric bikes as an alternative to taking the bus to Cap Ferrat, Eze-le-Village, or even Nice. You get about 25 miles on a fully charged battery (after that you’re pedaling; €20/half-day, €30/day, mid-April-Sept daily 9:00-17:00, deposit and ID required, best to reserve 24 hours in advance; helmets, locks, and baskets available; pick up bike by cruise terminal entry at the port, mobile 06 66 92 72 41, www.ecoloc06.fr).
Spectator Sports: Lively boules action takes place each evening just below the TI and the huge soccer field (for more on this sport, see here).
By Bus: Little minibus #80 saves you the sweat of walking uphill, but it runs only about once per hour from the old port to the top of the hill, stopping at Place Amélie Pollonnais, Hôtel la Fiancée du Pirate, and the Col de Villefranche stop (for buses to Eze-le-Village), before going to the outlying suburban Nice Riquier train station (€1.50, runs daily 7:00-19:00, see map on here for stop locations, schedule posted at stops and available at TI). Many buses serve Villefranche from other Riviera towns (see here).
By Taxi: General taxi tel. 04 93 55 55 55. Beware of taxi drivers who overcharge. The five-minute trip from the waterfront up to the main street level (to bus stops on the Low Corniche or to the train station) should be about €10. Normal weekday, daytime rates to outside destinations should be about €25 to Cap Ferrat, €40 to central Nice or Eze-le-Village, and €60 to the airport or Monaco. For a reliable taxi in Villefranche-sur-Mer, call or email Didier (mobile 06 15 15 39 15, taxididier.villefranchesurmer@orange.fr).
(See “Villefranche-sur-Mer” map, here.)
For tourists, Villefranche is a tiny, easy-to-cover town that snuggles around its harbor under its citadel. This quick self-guided walk laces together everything of importance, starting at the waterfront near where cruise-ship tenders land and finishing at the citadel.
• If arriving by bus or train, you’ll walk five minutes to the starting point. Go to the end of the little pier directly in front of Hôtel Welcome, where we’ll start with a spin tour (spin to the right) to get oriented.
The Harbor: Look out to sea. Cap Ferrat, across the bay, is a landscaped paradise where the 1 percent of the 1 percent compete for the best view. The Rothschilds’ pink mansion, Villa Ephrussi (slightly left of center, hugging the top), is the most worthwhile sight to visit in the area. To its right, in the saddle of the hill, the next home, with the big red-tiled roof, belongs to Paul Allen. Geologically, Cap Ferrat is the southern tip of the Alps. The range emerges from the sea here and arcs all across Europe, over 700 miles, to Vienna.
At 2,000 feet, this is the deepest natural harbor on the Riviera and was the region’s most important port until Nice built its own in the 18th century. Today, ships bring not pirates but tourists. The bay here is generally filled with beautiful yachts. (In the evenings, you might see well-coiffed captains being ferried in by dutiful mates to pick up statuesque call girls.)
Up on the hill, the 16th-century citadel (where this walk ends) is marked by flags. The yellow fisherman’s chapel (with the little-toe bell tower) has an interior painted by Jean Cocteau. Hôtel Welcome offers the balconies of dreams. Up the lane is the baroque facade of St. Michael’s Church. The promenade, lined by fancy fish restaurants, leads to the town beach. Fifty yards above the beach stands the train station, and above that, supported by arches, is the Low Corniche road, which leads to Monaco. Until that road was built in the 1860s, those hills were free of any development all the way to Monaco. The big, yellow building beyond is rentable for €300,000 a month (as Madonna did for a recent birthday).
• Walk left 30 yards past the last couple of fishing boats surviving from the town’s once-important fishing community to a small bronze bust of Jean Cocteau, the artist who said, “When I look at Villefranche, I see my youth.” Step up to the little chapel he painted.
Chapel of St. Pierre (Chapelle Cocteau): This chapel is the town’s cultural highlight. Cocteau, who decorated the place, was a Parisian transplant who adored little Villefranche-sur-Mer and whose career was distinguished by his work as an artist, poet, novelist, playwright, and filmmaker. Influenced by his pals Marcel Proust, André Gide, Edith Piaf, and Pablo Picasso, Cocteau was a leader among 20th-century avant-garde intellectuals. At the door, Marie-France—who is passionate about Cocteau’s art—collects a €3 donation for a fishermen’s charity. She then sets you free to enjoy the chapel’s small but intriguing interior. She’s happy to give explanations if you ask (open Wed-Mon 10:00-12:00 & 15:00-19:00, usually closed Tue, hours vary with cruise-ship traffic and season).
• From the chapel, stroll the harbor promenade 100 yards past romantic harborside tables. Restaurant La Mère Germaine is named for Mother Germaine, who famously took care of US Navy troops in World War II (step inside to see sketches and old photos on the wall). Just past the restaurant, a lane (signed Vieille Ville) leads up into the old town. Walk a few steps until you reach a long tunnel-like street.
Rue Obscure, the Old Town, and St. Michael’s Church: Here, under these 13th-century vaults, you’re in another age. Before the long stepped lane (which we’ll climb later), turn right and walk to the end of Rue Obscure (which means “dark street”). At the end, wind up to the sunlight past a tiny fountain at Place du Conseil, and a few steps beyond that to a viewpoint overlooking the beach. Then stroll back past the fountain and gently downhill. At Place des Deux Canons, turn right and climb the stepped lanes, and then take your first left at Le Serre restaurant to St. Michael’s Church, facing a delightful square (Place de l’Eglise) with a single magnolia tree. The church features an 18th-century organ, a particularly engaging crucifix at the high altar, and (to the left) a fine statue of a recumbent Christ—carved, they say, from a fig tree by a galley slave in the 1600s.
• Leaving St. Michael’s, go downhill halfway to the water, where you hit the main commercial street. Go right on Rue du Poilu to Place de la République. (Browse real-estate windows if you’d like to move here.) Head through the square and angle left, up the hill to the...
Citadel: The town’s mammoth castle was built in the 1500s by the Duke of Savoy to defend against the French. When the region joined France in 1860, the castle became just a barracks. Since the 20th century, it’s housed the police station, city hall, a summer outdoor theater, and art galleries. The single fortified entry—originally a drawbridge over a dry moat (a.k.a. kill zone)—still leads into this huge complex. The exterior walls slope thickly at the base, indicating that they were built in the “Age of Black Powder”—the 16th century—when the advent of gunpowder made thicker, cannonball-deflecting walls a necessity for any effective fortification. The bastions are designed for smarter crossfire during an attack.
• And that concludes our introductory walk.
To view this beautiful coastline from the sea, consider taking a quick sightseeing cruise with AMV (€11-21 cruises, some as far as Monaco, select days June-Sept, departs across from Hôtel Welcome, tel. 04 93 76 65 65, www.amv-sirenes.com). You can also rent your own motor boat through Dark Pelican (€100/half-day, €170/day, deposit required, on the harbor at the Gare Maritime, tel. 04 93 01 76 54, www.darkpelican.com).
A seaside walkway originally used by customs agents to patrol the harbor leads under the citadel and connects the old town with the workaday harbor (Port de la Darse). At the port you’ll find a few cafés, France’s Institute of Oceanography (an outpost for the University of Paris oceanographic studies), and an 18th-century dry dock. This scenic walk turns downright romantic after dark. You can also wander the other direction along Villefranche-sur-Mer’s waterfront and continue beyond the train station for postcard-perfect views back to Villefranche-sur-Mer (ideal in the morning—go before breakfast).
This fort, with a remarkable setting on the high ridge that separates Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer, is a good destination for hikers (also accessible by car; info at TI). From the TI, walk on the main road toward Nice about 500 yards past Hôtel La Flore. Look for wooden trail signs labeled Escalier de Verre and climb about 45 minutes as the trail makes long switchbacks through the woods up to the ridge. Find your way to Mont-Alban Fort (interior closed to tourists) and its view terrace. (To visit with a much shorter hike, bus #14 from Nice drops you five minutes away.)
($$$$ = Splurge, $$$ = Pricier, $$ = Moderate, $ = Budget)
You have a handful of good hotels to choose from in Villefranche-sur-Mer. The ones I list have sea views from at least half of their rooms—well worth paying extra for.
$$$$ Hôtel Welcome**** has the best location in Villefranche-sur-Mer, and charges for it. Anchored seaside in the old town, with all of its 35 comfortable, balconied rooms overlooking the harbor and a lounge/wine bar that opens to the water, this place lowers my pulse (pricey parking garage—must reserve, 3 Quai Amiral Courbet, tel. 04 93 76 27 62, www.welcomehotel.com, resa@welcomehotel.com).
$$$ Hôtel La Flore*** is a fine value if your idea of sightseeing is to enjoy the view from your spacious bedroom deck. It’s a 15-minute uphill hike from the old town, but the parking is free, and the bus stops for Nice and Monaco are close by (on main road at 5 Boulevard Princesse Grace de Monaco; tel. 04 93 76 30 30, www.hotel-la-flore.fr, infos@hotel-la-flore.fr).
$$$ Hôtel la Fiancée du Pirate*** is a family-friendly refuge high above Villefranche-sur-Mer on the Middle Corniche with no street appeal (best for drivers, although it is on bus lines #80, #82, and #112 to Eze-le-Village and Nice). Inside, Eric and Laurence offer 15 bright, tasteful, and comfortable rooms, a large pool, a nice garden, and a view lounge area. The big breakfast features homemade crêpes (RS%, laundry service, free parking, 8 Boulevard de la Corne d’Or, Moyenne Corniche/N-7, tel. 04 93 76 67 40, www.fianceedupirate.com, info@fianceedupirate.com).
$ Hôtel de la Darse** is a shy little hotel burrowed in the shadow of its highbrow neighbors and the only budget option in Villefranche. It’s less central—figure 10 scenic minutes of level walking to the harbor and a steep 15-minute walk up to the main road (hourly minibus #80 stops in front). Seaview rooms are easily worth the extra euros (no elevator, tel. 04 93 01 72 54, www.hoteldeladarse.com, info@hoteldeladarse.com). From the TI, walk or drive down Avenue Général de Gaulle (walkers should turn left on Allée du Colonel Duval into the Jardins de Narvik and follow steps to the bottom; for drivers, free parking is usually available nearby).
(See “Villefranche-sur-Mer” map, here.)
Comparison-shopping is half the fun of dining in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Make an event out of a predinner stroll through the old city. Check what looks good on the lively Place Amélie Pollonnais (next to Hôtel Welcome), where the whole village seems to converge at night; saunter the string of pricey candlelit places lining the waterfront; and consider the smaller, less expensive eateries embedded in the old town.
$$$ La Grignotière, hiding in the back lanes, serves generous and tasty plats. The mixed-seafood grill is a smart order, as are the spaghetti and gambas (shrimp), and the chef’s personal-recipe bouillabaisse. Dining is inside, making this a good choice for cooler days (daily except closed Wed Nov-April, 3 Rue du Poilu, tel. 04 93 76 79 83).
$$$ L’Aparté is where locals go for fresh cuisine and a special experience. Book ahead, then order from the chalkboard. The focus is seafood, servings are generous, and the presentation is tops (closed Mon, a few steps up from the port at 1 Rue Obscure, tel. 04 93 01 84 88).
$ Le Serre, nestled in the old town below St. Michael’s Church, is a simple place with a hardworking owner. Sylvie serves well-priced dinners to a loyal local clientele. Choose from the many pizzas (named after US states), salads, and meats; or try the three-course menu (open evenings only, cheap house wine, 16 Rue de May, tel. 04 93 76 79 91).
$$$$ La Mère Germaine, right on the harbor, is the only place in town classy enough to lure a yachter ashore. It’s dressy, with formal service and high prices. The name commemorates the current owner’s grandmother, who fed hungry GIs during World War II. Try the bouillabaisse, served with panache (daily, reserve for harborfront table, 9 Quai de l’Amiral Courbet, tel. 04 93 01 71 39, www.meregermaine.com).
$$ La Trinquette is a relaxed, low-key place away from the fray on the “other port,” next to the recommended Hôtel de la Darse (a lovely 10-minute walk from the other recommended restaurants). Jean-Charles runs the place with charm. The cuisine is good, and weekends bring a cool live-music scene (daily in summer, closed Wed off-season, 30 Avenue Général de Gaulle, tel. 04 93 16 92 48).
On Place Amélie Pollonnais: $$ Les Palmiers and $$ Le Cosmo each serves average brasserie fare on the town’s appealing main square (daily).
Grocery Store: A handy Casino is a few blocks above Hôtel Welcome at 12 Rue du Poilu (Thu-Tue 8:00-12:30 & 15:30-19:30 except closed Sun afternoon and all day Wed).
Dinner Options for Drivers: If you have a car and are staying a few nights, take the short drive up to Eze-le-Village or, better still, La Turbie (dining suggestions for each later in this chapter). If it’s summer (June-Sept), the best option of all is to go across to one of Cap Ferrat’s beach restaurants for a before-dinner drink or a dinner you won’t soon forget.
For a comparison of connections by train and bus, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” sidebar on here. If you’re going to Nice’s airport, take a cab or an airport shuttle van (see “Nice Connections” on here).
Trains are faster and run later than buses (until 24:00). It’s a level, 10-minute walk from the port to the train station.
From Villefranche-sur-Mer by Train to: Monaco (2/hour, 10 minutes), Nice (2/hour, 10 minutes), Antibes (2/hour, 40 minutes), and Eze-Bord-de-Mer (2/hour, 5 minutes)—transfer to bus #83 for Eze-le-Village (see here).
All buses in this area cost €1.50 per ride (buy ticket from driver). Tickets are good for 74 minutes in one direction and for transfers. In Villefranche-sur-Mer, the most convenient stop is Octroi, just above the TI.
These are the key routes: Bus #81 follows a circular route from Nice through Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, then to all Cap Ferrat stops, ending at the port in the village of St-Jean (2-3/hour, daily 6:35-20:15 from Nice, last return trip from St-Jean at 20:50). Bus #100 runs along the coastal road between Nice, Monaco, and Menton (3-4/hour). The last bus leaves Nice for Villefranche-sur-Mer at about 19:45; the last bus from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Nice departs at about 20:30.
From Villefranche-sur-Mer by Bus to: St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (#81, 20 minutes; for other transportation options, see “Getting to Cap Ferrat,” later), Beaulieu-sur-Mer (#81 or #100, 10 minutes), Monaco (#100, 35 minutes), Nice (#81 or #100, 20 minutes), and Eze-le-Village (#100 to Eze-Bord-de-Mer and transfer to #83; also #82 or #112 from Col de Villefranche stop).
Tenders deposit passengers at a slick terminal building (Gare Maritime) at the Port de la Santé, right in front of Villefranche-sur-Mer’s old town.
Getting into Town: It’s easy to walk to various points in Villefranche-sur-Mer. The town’s charming, restaurant-lined square is a straight walk ahead from the terminal, the main road (with the TI and bus stop) is a steep hike above, and the train station is a short stroll along the beach. Minibus #80, which departs from in front of the cruise terminal, saves you some hiking up to the main road and bus stop (see here).
Getting to Nearby Towns: To connect to other towns, choose between the bus or train. Leaving the terminal, you’ll see directional sights pointing left, to Town center/bus (a 10- to 15-minute, steeply uphill walk to the Octroi bus stop with connections west to Nice or east to Monaco); and right, to Gare SNCF/train station (a 10-minute, level stroll with some stairs at the end). See train and bus connections above.
Taxis wait in front of the cruise terminal and charge exorbitant rates (minimum €15 charge to train station, though many will refuse such a short ride). For farther-flung trips, see the price estimates on here. For an all-day trip, you can try negotiating a flat fee (e.g., €300 for a 4-hour tour).
Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Monaco are linked by three coastal routes: the Low, Middle, and High Corniches. The roads are nicknamed after the decorative frieze that runs along the top of a building (cornice). Each Corniche (kor-neesh) offers sensational views and a different perspective. You can find the three routes from Nice by driving up Boulevard Jean Jaurès past Vieux Nice. For the Low Corniche, follow signs to N-98 (Monaco par la Basse Corniche), which leads past Nice’s port. Shortly after the turnoff to the Low Corniche, you’ll see signs for N-7 (Moyenne Corniche) leading to the Middle Corniche. Signs for the High (Grande) Corniche appear a bit after that; follow D-2564 to Col des 4 Chemins and the Grande Corniche.
Low Corniche: The Basse Corniche (also called “Corniche Inférieure”) strings ports, beaches, and seaside villages together for a traffic-filled ground-floor view. It was built in the 1860s (along with the train line) to bring people to the casino in Monte Carlo. When this Low Corniche was finished, many hill-town villagers descended to the shore and started the communities that now line the sea. Before 1860, the population of the coast between Villefranche-sur-Mer and Monte Carlo was zero. Think about that as you make the congested trip today.
Middle Corniche: The Moyenne Corniche is higher, quieter, and far more impressive. It runs through Eze-le-Village and provides breathtaking views over the Mediterranean, with several scenic pullouts.
High Corniche: Napoleon’s crowning road-construction achievement, the Grande Corniche caps the cliffs with staggering views from almost 1,600 feet above the sea. Two thousand years ago, this was called the Via Aurelia, used by the Romans to conquer the West.
Villas: Driving from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Monaco, you’ll come upon impressive villas. A particularly grand entry leads to “La Leopolda,” the sprawling estate named for a previous owner, King Leopold II of Belgium in the 1930s (who owned the entire peninsula of Cap Ferrat in addition to this estate). Those driving up to the Middle Corniche from Villefranche-sur-Mer can look down on this yellow mansion and its lush garden, which fill an entire hilltop. The property was later owned by the Agnelli family (of Fiat fame and fortune), and then by the Safra family (Brazilian bankers). Its current value is a half-billion dollars.
The Best Route: For a ▲▲▲ route, drivers should take the Middle Corniche from Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer to Eze-le-Village; from there, follow signs to the Grande Corniche and La Turbie, keeping an eye out for brilliant views back over Eze-le-Village, then finish by dropping down into Monaco. Buses travel each route; the higher the Corniche, the less frequent the buses.
This exclusive peninsula, rated ▲▲, decorates Villefranche-sur-Mer’s views. Cap Ferrat is a peaceful eddy off the busy Nice-Monaco route (Low Corniche). You could spend a leisurely day on this peninsula, wandering the sleepy port village of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (usually called “St-Jean”), touring the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild mansion and gardens, and walking on sections of the beautiful trails that follow the coast. If you owned a house here, some of the richest people on the planet would be your neighbors.
Tourist Information: The main TI is near the harbor in St-Jean (May-Sept Mon-Sat 9:30-18:30, Sun 10:00-17:30; Oct-April Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun; 5 Avenue Denis Séméria, bus #81 stops here at the office du tourisme). A smaller TI is near the Villa Ephrussi (closed Sun and Sat off-season, 59 Avenue Denis Séméria, tel. 04 93 76 08 90, office-tourisme@saintjeancapferrat.fr).
Here’s how I’d spend a day on the Cap: From Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer, take the bus (#81) to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild stop (called Passable), then visit the villa. Walk 30 minutes, mostly downhill, to St-Jean for lunch (many options, including grocery shops for picnic supplies) and poke around the village. Consider the 45-minute walk on the Plage de la Paloma trail (ideal for picnics). After lunch, follow a beautiful 30-minute trail to the Villa Kérylos in Beaulieu-sur-Mer and tour that villa (see “Walks around Cap Ferrat,” later). Return to Villefranche-sur-Mer, Nice, or points beyond by train or bus.
Here’s an alternative plan for the star-gazing, nature-loving beach bum: Visit Villa Ephrussi first thing, walk to St-Jean for lunch, hike six miles around the entirety of Cap Ferrat (2-3 hours), and enjoy the late afternoon on the beach at Plage de Passable. At sunset, have dinner at the recommended Restaurant de la Plage de Passable, then walk or catch a taxi back.
From Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer: Bus #81 (direction: Port de St-Jean) runs to all Cap Ferrat stops (see “Villefranche-sur-Mer Connections,” earlier). For the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, get off at the Passable stop (allow 30 minutes from Nice and 10 minutes from Villefranche-sur-Mer’s Octroi stop). The return bus (direction: Nice) begins in St-Jean. Warning: Late-afternoon buses back to Villefranche-sur-Mer or Nice along the Low Corniche can be jammed (worse on weekends), potentially leaving passengers stranded at stops for long periods. To avoid this, either take the train or board bus #81 on the Cap itself (before it gets crowded).
Cap Ferrat is quick by car (take the Low Corniche) or taxi (allow €26 one-way from Villefranche-sur-Mer, €55 from Nice).
In what seems like the ultimate in Riviera extravagance, Venice, Versailles, and the Côte d’Azur come together in the pastel-pink Villa Ephrussi. Rising above Cap Ferrat, this 1905 mansion has views west to Villefranche-sur-Mer and east to Beaulieu-sur-Mer.
Cost and Hours: Palace and gardens-€13.50, includes audioguide; mid-Feb-Oct daily 10:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00; Nov-mid-Feb Mon-Fri 14:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00; tel. 04 93 01 33 09, www.villa-ephrussi.com.
Getting There: With luck, drivers can find a free spot to park along the entry road just inside the gate. There’s a small turnaround at the top. The nearest bus stop is Passable, just a few minutes after the bus turns onto Cap Ferrat (bus #81, 10-minute walk uphill to the villa). If returning to Nice or Villefranche-sur-Mer by bus, check the posted schedule, and keep in mind that you’re only a minute from the time-point listed for Port de St-Jean.
Visiting the Villa: Pick up the audioguide and garden map as you enter, then start with the well-furnished belle époque interior (well-described by the audioguide). Upstairs, an 18-minute film (with English subtitles) explains the gardens and villa and gives you good background on the life of rich and eccentric Béatrice, Baroness de Rothschild, the French banking heiress who built and furnished the place. Don’t miss the view over the gardens from the terrace.
As you stroll through the rooms, you’ll pass royal furnishings and personal possessions, including the baroness’s porcelain collection and her bathroom case for cruises. Her bedroom, sensibly, has views to the sea on both the port and starboard sides, and toward the bow, stretching like the prow of a vast cruise ship, is her garden. An appropriately classy $$ garden-tearoom serves drinks and lunches with a view (12:00-17:30).
The gorgeous gardens are why most come here (pick up the garden map when you get your audioguide). The literally shipshape gardens were inspired by Béatrice’s many ocean-liner trips. She even dressed her small army of gardeners like sailors. Behind the mansion, stroll through the seven lush gardens re-created from locations all over the world and with maximum sea views. Don’t miss the Jardin Exotique’s wild cactus, the rose garden at the far end, and the view back to the house from the “Temple of Love” gazebo.
This pebbly little beach, located below the Villa Ephrussi, comes with great views of Villefranche-sur-Mer. It’s a peaceful place, popular with families. One half is public (free, with snack bar, shower, and WC), and the other is run by a small restaurant (€25-35 includes changing locker, lounge chair, and shower; they have 260 “beds,” but still reserve ahead in summer or on weekends as this is a prime spot, tel. 04 93 76 06 17). If you were ever to do the French Riviera rent-a-beach ritual, this would be the place.
To park near the beach (curbside or in a nearby lot), figure about €8/day. Bus #81 stops just above the beach.
For me, the best reason to come here is for dinner. Arrive before sunset, then watch as darkness descends and lights flicker over Villefranche-sur-Mer’s heavenly setting. $$$ Restaurant de la Plage de Passable is your chance to dine on the beach with romance and class while enjoying terrific views and the sounds of children still at play (daily late May-early Sept, always make a reservation, tel. 04 93 76 06 17, www.plage-de-passable.com).
This half-private, half-public beach is a 10-minute walk from St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. For €25 you get a lounge chair and the freedom to relax on the elegant side. Or enjoy the pebbly free beach (with shower and WC).
$$$ Plage de la Paloma Restaurant is inviting for dining on the beach, with salads for lunch and elegant dinners (daily from 12:00 and from 20:00, closed late Sept-mid-April, tel. 04 93 01 64 71, www.paloma-beach.com).
This quiet harbor town lies in Cap Ferrat’s center, yet is off most tourist itineraries and feels overlooked. St-Jean houses yachts, boardwalks, views, and boutiques packaged in a “take your time, darling” atmosphere. It’s a few miles off the busy Nice-to-Monaco road—convenient for drivers. A string of restaurants line the port, with just enough visitors to keep them in business. St-Jean is especially peaceful at night.
For picnics, the short pedestrian street in St-Jean has all you need (grocery store, bakery, charcuterie, and pizza to go), and you’ll have no trouble finding portside or seaside seating. Plage de la Paloma, described earlier, is a 10-minute walk away.
(See “Cap Ferrat” map, here.)
The Cap is perfect for a ▲▲ walk; you’ll find well-maintained foot trails covering most of its length. You have three easy, mostly level options of varying lengths. The TIs in Villefranche-sur-Mer and St-Jean have maps of Cap Ferrat with walking paths marked.
A level 30-minute walk takes you past sumptuous villas, great views, and fun swimming opportunities. From St-Jean’s port, walk along the harbor and past the beach with the water on your right. Head up the steps to Promenade Maurice Rouvier and continue. Before long you’ll see smashing views of the whitewashed Villa Kérylos—in 1902, an eccentric millionaire modeled this mansion after a Greek villa (€11.50, audioguide included; June-Sept daily 10:00-19:00, shorter hours off-season; tel. 04 93 01 47 29, www.villakerylos.fr).
To get from Beaulieu-sur-Mer to St-Jean or the Villa Ephrussi, start at the Villa Kérylos (with the sea on your left), walk toward the Hôtel Royal Riviera, and find the trail. If going to St-Jean, stay left at the Villa Sonja Rello (about halfway down); if going to the Villa Ephrussi, look for signs leading uphill before Villa Aurora (walk up the path to Avenue Henri Honoré Sauvan, then keep going). If you’re walking from St-Jean to the Villa Ephrussi, turn left off the trail about 50 yards after passing Villa Aurora.
Just east of St-Jean’s port, a scenic 45-minute trail offers an easy sampling of Cap Ferrat’s beauty. From the port, walk or drive about a quarter-mile east (with the port on your left, passing Hôtel La Voile d’Or); parking is available at the port or on streets near Plage de la Paloma. You’ll find the trailhead where the road comes to a T—look for a Plage Paloma sign pointing left, but don’t walk left. Cross the small gravel park marked Jardin de la Paix to start the trail, and do the walk counterclockwise. The trail is level and paved, yet uneven enough that good shoes are helpful. Plunk your picnic on one of the benches along the trail, or eat at the restaurant on Plage de la Paloma at the end of the walk (described earlier).
For a longer 2-3 hour hike that circles the cape, follow the signs below the Villa Ephrussi marked Plage Passable (10 minutes downhill on foot from the villa, parking available near the trailhead). Walk down to the beach (you’ll find a good café that’s ideal for lunch), turn left, and cross the beach. Go along a paved road behind the apartment building, and after about 60 yards, take the steps down to the trail (Sentier Littoral). It’s about six miles (10 kilometers) around the cape. Near the end of the trail, you’ll pass by the port of St-Jean, from where you can take bus #81 back to Villefranche-sur-Mer, walk back to the Villa Ephrussi and Plage de Passable via the shorter inland route, or continue on to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and take a bus to Monaco or Nice.
Capping a peak high above the sea, flowery and flawless Eze-le-Village (don’t confuse it with the seafront town of Eze-Bord-de-Mer) is entirely consumed by tourism. This village d’art et de gastronomie (as it calls itself) is home to perfume outlets, stylish boutiques, steep cobbled lanes, and magnificent views. Touristy as it is, its stony state of preservation and magnificent hilltop setting over the Mediterranean affords a fine memory. Day-tripping by bus to Eze-le-Village from Nice, Monaco, or Villefranche-sur-Mer works well. While Eze-le-Village can be tranquil early and late, during the day it is mobbed by cruise-ship and tour-bus groups.
There are two Ezes: Eze-le-Village (the spectacular hill town on the Middle Corniche) and Eze-Bord-de-Mer (a modern beach resort far below the “village” of Eze).
From Nice and upper Villefranche-sur-Mer, buses #82 and #112 provide 16 buses per day to Eze-le-Village (8 on Sun, 30 minutes from Villefranche). From Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer, or Monaco, you can also take the train or the Nice-Monaco bus to Eze-Bord-de-Mer, getting off at the Gare d’Eze stop. From there, take the infrequent #83 shuttle bus straight up to Eze-le-Village (8/day, daily about 9:00-18:00, schedule posted at stop, 15 minutes).
To connect Eze-le-Village directly with Monte Carlo in Monaco, take bus #112 (6/day Mon-Sat, none on Sun, 20 minutes). A taxi between the two Ezes or from Eze-le-Village to La Turbie will run you about €27 (tel. 06 09 84 17 84).
The helpful TI is adjacent to Eze-le-Village’s main parking lot, just below the town’s entry. Ask here for bus schedules. Call a week in advance to arrange a €10, one-hour English-language tour of the village that includes its (€6) gardens (TI open April-Oct daily 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00; Nov-March Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun; Place de Gaulle, tel. 04 93 41 26 00, www.eze-tourisme.com).
The stop for buses to Nice is across the road by the Avia gas station, and the stops for buses to Eze-Bord-de-Mer and Monaco are on the village side of the main road, near the Casino grocery. Public WCs are just behind the TI and in the village behind the church. For food, there’s a handy Casino grocery at the foot of the village by the bus stop (daily 8:00-19:30) and a sensational picnic spot at the beginning of the trail to Eze-Bord-de-Mer. Or try Le Cactus, near the entry to the old town (daily, tel. 04 93 41 19 02). For a splurge, dine at Château Eza (described next, on my “Eze-le-Village Walk”).
This self-guided walk gives you a quick orientation to the village.
• From the TI and parking lot, hike uphill into the town. You’ll come to an exclusive hotel gate and the start of a steep trail down to the beach, marked Eze/Mer. For a panoramic view and an ideal picnic perch, side-trip 80 steps down this path (for details, see “Hike to Eze-Bord-de-Mer,” later). Continuing up into the village, find the steps immediately after the ritzy hotel gate and climb to...
Place du Centenaire: In this square, a stone plaque in the flower bed (behind the candy stand) celebrates the 100th anniversary of the 1860 plebiscite, the time when all 133 Eze residents voted to leave the Italian Duchy of Savoy and join France. A town map here helps you get oriented.
• Now pass through the once-formidable town gate and climb into the 14th-century village.
As you walk, stop to read the information plaques (in English) and contemplate the change this village has witnessed in the last 90 years. Eze-le-Village was off any traveler’s radar until well after World War II (running water was made available only in the 1930s), yet today hotel rooms outnumber local residents two to one (66 to 33).
• Wandering the narrow lanes, follow signs to the...
Château Eza: This was the winter getaway of the Swedish royal family from 1923 until 1953; today it’s a hotel. The château’s tearoom (Salon de Thé), on a cliff overlooking the jagged Riviera and sea, offers you the most scenic coffee or beer break you’ll ever enjoy—for a price. The sensational view terrace is also home to an expensive-but-excellent $$$$ restaurant (open daily, tel. 04 93 41 12 24).
• Backtrack a bit and continue uphill (follow signs: Jardin Exotique). The lane ends at the hilltop castle ruins—now blanketed by the...
Jardin d’Eze: You’ll find this prickly festival of cactus and exotic plants suspended between the sea and sky at the top of Eze-le-Village. Since 1949, the ruins of an old château have been home to 400 different plants 1,400 feet above the sea (€6, daily, hours usually June-Sept 9:00-19:00, Oct-May until dusk, well-described in English, tel. 04 93 41 10 30). At the top, you’ll be treated to a commanding 360-degree view, with a helpful table d’orientation. On a clear day (they say...) you can see Corsica. The castle was demolished by Louis XIV in 1706. Louis destroyed castles like this all over Europe (most notably along the Rhine), because he didn’t want to risk having to do battle with their owners at some future date.
• As you descend, drop by the...
Eze Church: Though built during Napoleonic times, this church has an uncharacteristic Baroque fanciness—a reminder that 300 years of Savoy rule left the townsfolk with an Italian savoir faire and a sensibility for decor.
This factory, with its huge tour-bus parking lot, lies on the Middle Corniche, 100 yards below Eze-le-Village. Designed for tour groups, it cranks them through all day long. If you’ve never seen mass tourism in action, this place will open your eyes. (The gravel is littered with the color-coded stickers each tourist wears so that salespeople know which guide gets the kickback.) Drop in for an informative and free tour (2/hour, 15 minutes). You’ll see how the perfume and scented soaps are made before being herded into the gift shop.
Cost and Hours: Daily 8:30-18:30; best Mon-Fri 9:00-11:00 & 14:00-15:30, when the “factory” actually has people working; tel. 04 93 41 05 05.
A steep trail leaves Eze-le-Village from the foot of the hill-town entry, near the fancy hotel gate (60 yards up from the main road), and descends 1,300 feet to the sea along a no-shade, all-view trail. The trail is easy to follow but uneven—allow 45 minutes (good walking shoes are essential; expect to be on all fours in certain sections). Once in Eze-Bord-de-Mer, you can catch a bus or train to all destinations between Nice and Monaco. While walking this trail in the late 1800s, Friedrich Nietzsche was moved to write his unconventionally spiritual novel, Thus Spoke Zarathustra.
High above Monaco, on the Grande Corniche in the overlooked village of La Turbie, lies the ancient Roman “Trophy of the Alps,” one of this region’s most evocative historical sights (with dramatic views over the entire country of Monaco as a bonus). Rising well above all other buildings, this massive monument, worth ▲, commemorates Augustus Caesar’s conquest of the Alps and its 44 hostile tribes. It’s exciting to think that, in a way, Le Trophée des Alpes (also called “Le Trophée d’Auguste” for the emperor who built it) celebrates a victory that kicked off the Pax Romana—joining Gaul and Germania, freeing up the main artery of the Roman Empire, and linking Spain and Italy.
Walk around and notice how the Romans built a fine stone exterior, filled in with rubble and coarse concrete. Flanked by the vanquished in chains, the towering inscription (the longest such inscription surviving from ancient times) tells the story: It was erected “by the senate and the people to honor the emperor.” The good little one-room museum shows a reconstruction and translation of the dramatic inscription, which lists all the feisty alpine tribes that put up such a fight.
Cost and Hours: €6, Tue-Sun mid-May-mid-Sept 9:30-13:00 & 14:30-18:30, off-season 10:00-13:30 & 14:30-17:00, closed Mon year-round; audioguide-€3; tel. 04 93 41 20 84, www.la-turbie.monuments-nationaux.fr.
Getting There: By car, take the High Corniche to La Turbie, ideally from Eze-le-Village (La Turbie is 10 minutes east of, and above, Eze-le-Village), then look for signs to Le Trophée d’Auguste. Once in La Turbie, park in the lot in the center of town (Place Neuve, follow Monaco signs for a short block) and walk from there (go five minutes around the old village, with the village on your right); or drive to the site by turning right in front of La Régence Café. Those coming from farther afield can take the efficient A-8 to the La Turbie exit. To reach Eze-le-Village from La Turbie, follow signs to Nice, and then look for signs to Eze-le-Village.
From Nice, you can get here weekdays and Saturday on bus #116 (from the Vauban tram stop); on Sunday take bus #T-66 (from the Pont St. Michel tram stop). Both buses run about 6 times day and take 45 minutes. From Monaco, bus #11 connects to La Turbie (8/day Mon-Sat, 5/day Sun, 30 minutes). La Turbie’s bus stop is near the post office (PTT), on Place Neuve.
Eating in La Turbie: The sweet old village of La Turbie sees almost no tourists, but it has plenty of cafés and restaurants. $$ Restaurant La Terrasse is your best bet, with tables under umbrellas and big views (daily for lunch and dinner, near the post office at the main parking lot, 17 Place Neuve, tel. 04 93 41 21 84).
Despite high prices, wall-to-wall daytime tourists, and a Disney-esque atmosphere, Monaco is a Riviera must. Monaco is on the go. Since 1929, cars have raced around the port and in front of the casino in one of the world’s most famous auto races, the Grand Prix de Monaco. The modern breakwater—constructed elsewhere and towed in by sea—enables big cruise ships to dock here, and the district of Fontvieille, reclaimed from the sea, bristles with luxury high-rise condos. But don’t look for anything too deep in this glittering tax haven. Many of its 36,000 residents live here because there’s no income tax—there are only about 6,000 true Monegasques.
This minuscule principality (0.75 square mile) borders only France and the Mediterranean. The country has always been tiny, but it used to be...less tiny. In an 1860 plebiscite, Monaco lost two-thirds of its territory when the region of Menton voted to join France. To compensate, France suggested that Monaco build a fancy casino and promised to connect it to the world with a road (the Low Corniche) and a train line. This started a high-class tourist boom that has yet to let up.
Although “independent,” Monaco is run as a piece of France. A French civil servant appointed by the French president—with the blessing of Monaco’s prince—serves as state minister and manages the place. Monaco’s phone system, electricity, water, and so on, are all French.
The glamorous romance and marriage of the American actress Grace Kelly to Prince Rainier added to Monaco’s fairy-tale mystique. Princess Grace first came to Monaco to star in the 1955 Alfred Hitchcock movie To Catch a Thief, in which she was filmed racing along the Corniches. She married the prince in 1956 and adopted the country, but tragically, the much-loved princess died in 1982 after suffering a stroke while driving on one of those same scenic roads. She was just 52 years old. The death of Prince Rainier in 2005 ended his 56-year-long enlightened reign. Today Monaco is ruled by Prince Albert Alexandre Louis Pierre, Marquis of Baux—son of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace.
Monaco is a special place: There are more people in Monaco’s philharmonic orchestra (about 100) than in its army (about 80 guards). Yet the princedom is well-guarded, with police and cameras on every corner. (They say you could win a million dollars at the casino and walk to the train station in the wee hours without a worry.) Stamps are printed in small quantities and increase in value almost as soon as they’re available. And collectors snapped up the rare Monaco versions of euro coins (with Prince Rainier’s portrait) so quickly that many Monegasques have never even seen one.
The principality of Monaco has three tourist areas: Monaco-Ville, Monte Carlo, and La Condamine. Monaco-Ville fills the rock high above everything else and is referred to by locals as Le Rocher (“The Rock”). This is the oldest part of Monaco, home to the Prince’s Palace and all the sights except the casino. Monte Carlo is the area around the casino. La Condamine is the port, which lies between Monaco-Ville and Monte Carlo. From here it’s a 25-minute walk up to the Prince’s Palace or to the casino, or three minutes by bus to either (see “Getting Around Monaco,” later).
The main TI is at the top of the park above the casino (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-13:00, 2 Boulevard des Moulins, tel. 00-377/92 16 61 16 or 00-377/92 16 61 66, www.visitmonaco.com). The TI may move locations in 2017, though it will remain near the casino. Another TI is at the train station (Tue-Sat 9:00-18:00, also open Sun-Mon in July-Aug, closed 12:00-14:00 off-season).
By Bus from Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer: Bus riders need to pay attention, as stops are not always announced. Cap d’Ail is the town before Monaco, so be on the lookout after that (the last stop before Monaco is called “Cimetière”). You’ll enter Monaco through the modern cityscape of high-rises in the Fontvieille district. When you see the rocky outcrop of old Monaco, be ready to get off.
There are three stops in Monaco. Listed in order from Nice, they are Place d’Armes (at the base of Monaco-Ville), Princesse Antoinette (on the port), and Monte Carlo-Casino (near the casino and the TI on Boulevard des Moulins).
By Train from Nice: You know your train is in Monaco when you’re in a long, modern underground station. The station is in the center of Monaco, a 15-minute walk to the casino or to the port, and about 25 minutes to the palace. The station has no baggage storage.
The TI, train-ticket windows, and WCs are up the escalator at the Italy end of the station. There are three exits from the train platform level (one at each end and one in the middle).
To reach Monaco-Ville and the palace, take the exit at the Nice end of the tracks (signed Sortie Fontvieille/Le Rocher), which leads through a long tunnel to the base of Monaco-Ville at Place d’Armes. From here, it’s about a 15-minute hike up to the palace, or take the bus (#1 or #2).
To reach Monaco’s port and the casino, take the middle exit, following Sortie Port signs down the steps and escalators, and then Accès Port signs until you pop out at the port, where you’ll see the stop for buses #1 and #2 across the busy street. From here it’s a 20-minute walk to the casino (up Avenue d’Ostende to your left), or a short trip via buses #1 or #2.
To return to Nice by train after 20:30, when ticket windows close, buy your return tickets now or be sure to have about €4 in coins for the ticket machines.
By Car: Follow Centre-Ville signs into Monaco (warning: traffic can be heavy), then watch for the red-letter signs to parking garages at Le Casino (for Monte Carlo) or Le Palais (for Monaco-Ville). You’ll pay about €10 for four hours.
Combo-Ticket: If you plan to see both of Monaco’s big sights (Prince’s Palace and Oceanography Museum), buy the €20.50 combo-ticket.
Changing of the Guard: This popular event takes place daily in good weather at 11:55 at the Prince’s Palace. Arrive by 11:30 to get a good viewing spot.
Loop Trip from Nice to Monaco: From Nice you can get to Monaco by bus or train, then take a bus from Monaco to Eze-le-Village or La Turbie, and return to Nice from there by bus. For bus numbers, frequencies, and stop locations, see “Monaco Connections” on here.
Evening Events: Monaco’s Philharmonic Orchestra (tel. 00-377/98 06 28 28, www.opmc.mc) and Monte Carlo Ballet (tel. 00-377/99 99 30 00, www.balletsdemontecarlo.com) offer performances at reasonable prices.
Passport Stamp: For an official memento of your visit, get your passport stamped at the TI (listed earlier).
By Local Bus: Buses #1 and #2 link all areas with frequent service (single ticket-€2, 6 tickets-€11, day pass-€5.50, pay driver or save a little and buy from curbside machines, 10/hour, fewer on Sun, buses run until 21:00). You can split a six-ride ticket with your travel partners. Bus tickets are good for a free transfer if used within 30 minutes.
For a cheap and scenic loop ride through Monaco, ride bus #2 from one end to the other and back (25 minutes each way). You need two tickets and must get off the bus at the last stop and then get on again.
By Open Bus Tour: You could pay €22 for a hop-on, hop-off open-deck bus tour that makes 12 stops in Monaco, but I wouldn’t. If you want a scenic tour of the principality that includes its best views, take local bus #2 (see above).
By Tourist Train: “Monaco Tour” tourist trains are an efficient way to enjoy a blitz tour of Monaco. They begin at the Oceanography Museum and pass by the port, casino, and palace (€9, 2/hour, 40 minutes, recorded English commentary).
By Taxi: If you’ve lost all track of time at the casino, you can call the 24-hour taxi service (tel. 00-377/93 15 01 01)...provided you still have enough money to pay for the cab home.
(See “Monaco” map, here.)
All of Monaco’s major sights (except the casino) are in Monaco-Ville, packed within a few cheerfully tidy blocks. This self-guided walk connects these sights with a tight little loop, starting from the palace square.
• To get from anywhere in Monaco to the palace square (Monaco-Ville’s sightseeing center and home of the palace), take bus #1 or #2 to the end of the line at Place de la Visitation. Turn right as you step off the bus and walk five minutes down Rue Emile de Loth. You’ll pass the post office, a worthwhile stop for its collection of valuable Monegasque stamps.
If you’re walking up from the port or the Place d’Armes stop for bus #100, a well-marked lane leads directly to the palace.
This square is the best place to get oriented to Monaco. Facing the palace, go to the right and look out over the city (er...principality). This rock gave birth to the little pastel Hong Kong look-alike in 1215, and it’s managed to remain an independent country for most of its 800 years. Looking beyond the glitzy port, notice the faded green roof above and to the right: It belongs to the casino that put Monaco on the map in the 1800s. It was located away from Monaco-Ville because Prince Charles III (r. 1856-1889) wanted to shield his people from low-life gamblers.
The modern buildings just past the casino mark the eastern limit of Monaco. The famous Grand Prix runs along the port and then up the ramp to the casino (at top speeds of 180 mph). Italy is so close, you can almost smell the pesto. Just beyond the casino is France again (which flanks Monaco on both sides)—you could walk one-way from France to France, passing through Monaco in about 60 minutes.
The odd statue of a woman with a fishing net is dedicated to the glorious reign of Prince Albert I (1889-1922). The son of Charles III (who built the casino), Albert I was a true Renaissance Man. He had a Jacques Cousteau-like fascination with the sea (and built Monaco’s famous aquarium, the Oceanography Museum) and was a determined pacifist who made many attempts to dissuade Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm II from becoming involved in World War I.
• As you head toward the palace, you’ll find a statue of a monk grasping a sword nearby.
Meet François Grimaldi, a renegade Italian dressed as a monk, who captured Monaco in 1297 and began the dynasty that still rules the principality. Prince Albert is his great-great-great... grandson, which gives Monaco’s royal family the distinction of being the longest-lasting dynasty in Europe.
• Now walk to the...
A medieval castle sat where the palace is today. Its strategic setting has had a lot to do with Monaco’s ability to resist attackers. Today, Prince Albert and his wife live in the palace, while poor Princesses Stephanie and Caroline live down the street. The palace guards protect the prince 24/7 and still stage a Changing of the Guard ceremony with all the pageantry of an important nation (daily at 11:55, fun to watch but jam-packed, arrive by 11:30). Audioguide tours take you through part of the prince’s lavish palace in 30 minutes. The rooms are well-furnished and impressive, but interesting only if you haven’t seen a château lately.
Cost and Hours: €8, includes audioguide, €20.50 combo-ticket also covers Oceanography Museum; hours vary but generally April-Oct daily 10:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00, closed Nov-March; tel. 00-377/93 25 18 31, www.palais.mc.
• Head to the west end of the palace square. Below the cannonballs is the district known as...
Monaco’s newest, reclaimed-from-the-sea area has seen much of Monaco’s post-WWII growth (residential and commercial—notice the lushly planted building tops). Prince Rainier continued—some say, was obsessed with—Monaco’s economic growth, creating landfills (topped with apartments, such as in Fontvieille), flashy ports, more beaches, a big sports stadium marked by tall arches, and a rail station. (An ambitious new landfill project is in the works and would add still more prime real estate to Monaco’s portfolio.) Today, thanks to Prince Rainier’s past efforts, tiny Monaco is a member of the United Nations. (If you have kids with you, check out the nifty play area just below.)
• With your back to the palace, leave the square through the arch on the right (Rue Colonel Bellando de Castro) and find the...
The somber but beautifully lit cathedral, rebuilt in 1878, shows that Monaco cared for more than just its new casino. It’s where centuries of Grimaldis are buried, and where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier were married. Inside, circle slowly behind the altar (counterclockwise). The second tomb is that of Albert I, who did much to put Monaco on the world stage. The second-to-last tomb—inscribed “Gratia Patricia, MCMLXXXII” and displaying the 1956 wedding photo of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier—is where Princess Grace was buried in 1982. Prince Rainier’s tomb lies next to Princess Grace’s (daily 8:30-19:15).
• Leave the cathedral and dip into the immaculately maintained Jardin Botanique, with more fine views. In the gardens, turn left. Eventually you’ll find the impressive building housing the...
Prince Albert I built this cliff-hanging aquarium in 1910 as a monument to his enthusiasm for things from the sea. The museum’s aquarium, which Jacques Cousteau captained for 32 years, has 2,000 different specimens, representing 250 species. You’ll find Mediterranean fish and colorful tropical species (all well described in English). Rotating exhibits occupy the entry floor. Upstairs, the fancy Albert I Hall is filled with ship models, whale skeletons, oceanographic instruments and tools, and scenes of Albert and his beachcombers hard at work—but sadly, only scant English information is provided here. Don’t miss the elevator to the rooftop terrace view café.
Cost and Hours: €11-16, kids-€7-12, €20.50 combo-ticket includes Prince’s Palace; daily April-Sept 10:00-19:00, July-Aug 9:30-20:00, Oct-March 10:00-18:00; down the steps from Monaco-Ville bus stop, at the opposite end of Monaco-Ville from the palace; tel. 00-377/93 15 36 00, www.oceano.mc.
• The red-brick steps across from the Oceanography Museum lead up to stops for buses #1 and #2, both of which run to the port, the casino, and the train station. To walk back to the palace and through the old city, turn left at the top of the brick steps. If you’re into stamps, walk down Rue Emile de Loth to find the post office, where philatelists and postcard writers with panache can buy—or just gaze in awe at—the impressive collection of Monegasque stamps (Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00, Sat 8:00-13:00, closed Sun).
This cliffside municipal garden, located above Monaco-Ville, has eye-popping views from France to Italy. It’s home to more than a thousand species of cacti (some giant) and other succulent plants, but worth the entry only for view-loving botanists (some posted English explanations provided). Your ticket includes entry to a skippable natural cave, an anthropological museum, and a view snack bar/café. You can get similar views over Monaco for free from behind the souvenir stand at the Jardin’s bus stop; or, for even grander vistas, cross the street and hike toward La Turbie.
Cost and Hours: €7.20, daily 9:00-19:00, Oct-April until about dusk, take bus #2 from any stop in Monaco, tel. 00-377/93 15 29 80, www.jardin-exotique.com.
Monte Carlo, which means “Charles’ Hill” in Spanish, is named for the prince who presided over Monaco’s 19th-century makeover. In the mid-1800s, olive groves stood here. Then, with the construction of casino and spas, and easy road and train access, one of Europe’s poorest countries was on the Grand Tour map—the place for the vacationing aristocracy to play. Today, Monaco has the world’s highest per-capita income.
The Monte Carlo casino is intended to make you feel comfortable while losing your retirement nest egg. Charles Garnier designed the place (with an opera house inside) in 1878, in part to thank the prince for his financial help in completing Paris’ Opéra Garnier (which the architect also designed). The central doors provide access to slot machines, gaming rooms, and the opera house. The gaming rooms occupy the left wing of the building.
Cost and Hours: Hours and entry fees are shuffled regularly. Plan on €10 to enter at any hour, whether you gamble or not. Public areas are open daily 9:00-12:00 (no gambling). Take an English brochure and tour on your own. From 14:00 to very late the gaming rooms are open to appropriately attired humans over 18 (bring your passport as proof). Tel. 00-377/92 16 20 00, www.montecarlocasinos.com.
Dress Code: Before 19:00, shorts are allowed in the atrium area, though you’ll need decent attire to go any farther. After 19:00, shorts are off-limits everywhere, and tennis shoes are not permitted. Men should wear a jacket and slacks, and women should dress appropriately.
Eating: The casino has two dining options. The $$$$ Train Bleu restaurant is for James Bond types for whom price is no object and elegance is everything. $$$ Le Salon Rose offers brasserie food—big salads and pasta dishes. Show your casino ticket to be reimbursed for the entrance fee before asking for the bill.
Visiting the Casino: Count the counts and Rolls-Royces in front of Hôtel de Paris (built at the same time, visitors allowed in the hotel, no shorts, www.montecarloresort.com), then strut inside the casino to the sumptuous atrium. This is the lobby for the 520-seat opera house (open Nov-April only for performances). A model of the opera house is at the far right side of the room, near the marble WCs.
The first rooms (Salle Renaissance, Salon de l’Europe, and Salle des Amériques) have European and English roulette, plus Trente et Quarante, Punto Banco—a version of baccarat—and slot machines. The more glamorous game rooms (Salons Touzet, Salle Medecin, and Terrasse Salle Blanche) have those same games and Ultimate Texas Hold ’Em poker, but you play against the cashier with higher stakes.
The park behind the casino offers a peaceful café with a good view of the building’s rear facade and of Monaco-Ville.
Take the Money and Run: The stop for buses returning to Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer and for local buses #1 and #2 is on Avenue de la Costa, at the top of the park above the casino (at the small shopping mall). To reach the train station from the casino, take bus #1 or #2 from this stop, or walk about 15 minutes down Avenue d’Ostende toward the port, and follow signs to Gare SNCF.
(See “Monaco” map, here.)
($$$$ = Splurge, $$$ = Pricier, $$ = Moderate, $ = Budget)
Sleeping in Monaco-Ville: $$ Hôtel de France** is centrally located, comfortable, well run by friendly Sylvie, and reasonably priced—for Monaco (air-con, no elevator, includes breakfast, near west exit from train station at 6 Rue de la Turbie, tel. 00-377/93 30 24 64, www.hoteldefrance.mc, hoteldefrance@monaco.mc).
Eating on the Port: Several cafés serve basic, inexpensive fare (day and night) on the port. Troll the places that line the flowery and traffic-free Rue de la Princesse Caroline between Rue Grimaldi and the port. $$$ Huit et Demi is a reliable choice, with a white-tablecloth-meets-director’s-chair ambience and good outdoor seating (closed Sun, 7 Rue de la Princesse Caroline, tel. 00-377/93 50 97 02).
Eating in Monaco-Ville: You’ll find massive pan bagnat, quiche, and sandwiches at the yellow-bannered $ Boulangerie, a block off Place du Palais (open daily until 19:00, 8 Rue Basse). At $$ U Cavagnetu, just a block from Albert’s palace, you’ll dine cheaply on specialties from Monaco (daily, 14 Rue Comte Félix Gastaldi, tel. 00-377/97 98 20 40). Monaco-Ville has other pizzerias, crêperies, and sandwich stands, but the neighborhood is dead at night.
For a comparison of train and bus connections, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” sidebar on here. Most trains heading west will stop in Villefranche-sur-Mer and Nice (ask). Note that the last train leaves Monaco for Villefranche-sur-Mer and Nice at about 23:30. If you plan to leave Monaco by a late train (after 20:30, when ticket windows close), buy your tickets in advance or bring enough coins for the machines.
From Monaco by Train to: Villefranche-sur-Mer, Nice, Antibes, or Cannes (2/hour).
Bus #100, which runs along the Low Corniche back to Nice (3-4/hour, 45 minutes), is often crowded. To have a better chance of securing a seat, board it at the stop near the TI on Avenue de la Costa (see map on here) rather than the stop near Place d’Armes. Bus #100 also stops near Cap Ferrat (20 minutes plus 20-minute walk or transfer to bus #81) and in Villefranche-sur-Mer (35 minutes). The last bus leaves Monaco for Nice at about 20:00. In the other direction, bus #100 goes to Menton (40 minutes).
Bus #112, which goes along the scenic Middle Corniche to Eze-le-Village (6/day Mon-Sat, none on Sun, 20 minutes), departs Monaco from Place de la Crémaillère, one block above the main TI and casino park. Walk up Rue Iris with Barclays Bank to your left, curve right, and find the bus shelter across the street at the green Costa à la Crémaillère café (bus number not posted).
Bus #11 to La Turbie (8/day Mon-Sat, 5/day Sun, 30 minutes) stops just past the TI (same side of street).
Bus #110 express takes the freeway to Nice Airport (2/hour, 50 minutes, €22).
Cruise ships tender passengers to the end of Monaco’s yacht harbor, a short walk from downtown. It’s a long walk or a short bus ride to most sights in town. To reach other towns, such as Villefrance-sur-Mer or Nice, you can take public transportation. To summon a taxi (assuming none are waiting when you disembark), look for the gray taxi call box near the tender dock—just press the button and wait for your cab to arrive.
Getting into Town: To reach Monaco-Ville, which towers high over the cruise terminal, you can either hike steeply and scenically up to the top of the hill, or walk to Place d’Armes and hop on bus #1 or #2, which will take you up top sweat-free. It’s a 15-minute, level walk to the bus stop from the port: Cross Boulevard Albert I, follow green Gare S.N.C.F./Ferroviare signs, and take the public elevator to Place d’Armes.
The ritzy skyscraper zone of Monte Carlo is across the harbor from the tender dock, about a 25-minute walk. You can also ride the little electric “bateau bus” shuttle boat across the mouth of the harbor (works with a bus ticket). To reach the upper part of Monte Carlo—with the TI and handy bus stops (including for Eze-le-Village and La Turbie)—catch bus #1 or #2 at the top of the yacht harbor, along Boulevard Albert I.
Getting to Sights Beyond Monaco: Monaco is connected to most nearby sights by both train and bus. Trains run about twice hourly to Villefranche-sur-Mer (10 minutes), then on to Nice (20 minutes). The train station is about a 20-minute walk from the tender harbor—first walk to Place d’Armes (directions above), then follow Rue Grimaldi to find stairs and an elevator to the station.
Buses run regularly to nearby towns (see “By Bus,” earlier, for bus stop locations and frequencies). If taking bus #112 to Eze-le-Village or bus #11 to La Turbie, first ride bus #1 or #2 to the TI and casino, then follow the directions above.
Antibes has a down-to-earth, easygoing ambience. Its old town is a warren of narrow streets and red-tile roofs rising above the blue Med, protected by twin medieval towers and wrapped in extensive ramparts. Visitors making the short trip from Nice can browse Europe’s biggest yacht harbor, snooze on a sandy beach, loiter through an enjoyable old town, and hike along a sea-swept trail. The town’s cultural claim to fame, the Picasso Museum (closed on Mondays), shows off its appealing collection in a fine, old building.
Though much smaller than Nice, Antibes has a history that dates back just as far. Both towns were founded by Greek traders in the fifth century B.C. To the Greeks, Antibes was “Antipolis”—the town (polis) opposite (anti) Nice. For the next several centuries, Antibes remained in the shadow of its neighbor. By the turn of the 20th century, the town was a military base—so the rich and famous partied elsewhere. But when the army checked out after World War I, Antibes was “discovered” and enjoyed a particularly roaring ’20s—with the help of party animals like Rudolph Valentino and the rowdy (yet silent) Charlie Chaplin. Fun seekers even invented water-skiing right here in the 1920s.
Antibes’ old town lies between the port and Boulevard Albert I and Avenue Robert Soleau. Place Nationale is the old town’s hub of activity. Stroll above the sea between the old port and Place Albert I (where Boulevard Albert I meets the water). The best beaches lie just beyond Place Albert I, and the walk is beautiful. Good play areas for children are along this path and on Place des Martyrs de la Résistance (close to recommended Hôtel Relais du Postillon).
The TI is a few blocks from the train station at 42 Avenue Robert Soleau (July-Aug daily 9:00-19:00; Sept-June Mon-Fri 9:00-12:30 & 13:30-18:00, Sat 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, Sun 9:00-13:00; free Wi-Fi, tel. 04 22 10 60 10, www.antibesjuanlespins.com).
By Train: Bus #14 runs frequently from the train station to the gare routière (bus station; near several recommended hotels and the old town), and continues to the fine Plage de la Salis, with quick access to the Phare de la Garoupe trail (2/hour, none on Sun, bus stop 100 yards to right as you exit train station). Taxis usually wait in front of the station.
To walk to the port, the old town, and the Picasso Museum (15 minutes), cross the street in front of the station, skirting left of the café, and follow Avenue de la Libération downhill as it bends left. At the end of the street, head right along the port. If you walk on the water’s edge, you’ll see the yachts get bigger as you go. To walk directly to the TI and recommended hotels in the old town, turn right out of the station and walk down Avenue Robert Soleau.
There’s no baggage check at the station. The last train back to Nice leaves at about midnight.
By Bus: Regional buses (including airport bus #250) stop at the long bus platform behind the train station (called the Pôle d’Echange, bus info office). Take the pedestrian overpass from behind the train station. City buses use the bus station at the edge of the old town on Place Guynemer, a block below Place Général de Gaulle (info desk open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00, Sat 8:30-12:00 & 14:30-17:30, closed Sun, www.envibus.fr).
By Car: Day-trippers follow signs to Centre-Ville, then Port Vauban. The easiest place to park is a convenient but pricey underground parking lot located outside the ramparts near the archway leading into the old town (€9/4 hours, €20/12 hours, see map on here). A free lot is available opposite Fort Carré (north of the port). It’s a 15-minute walk to the old town from here; you can also catch bus #14. Street parking is free Monday through Friday (12:00-14:00 & 19:00-8:00), and all day Saturday and Sunday.
If you’re sleeping here, follow Centre-Ville signs, then signs to your hotel. The most appealing hotels in Antibes are best by car, and Antibes works well for drivers—compared with Nice, parking is easy, traffic is minimal, and it’s a convenient springboard for the Inland Riviera. Pay parking is available at Antibes’ train station, so drivers can ditch their cars here and day-trip from Antibes by train.
Markets: Antibes’ old-time market hall (Marché Provençal) hosts a vibrant produce market (daily until 13:00, closed Mon Sept-May), and a lively antiques/flea market fills Place Nationale and Place Audiberti, next to the port (Thu and Sat 7:00-18:00). A clothing market winds through the streets around the post office on Rue Lacan (Thu 9:00-18:00).
English Bookstore: Antibes Books has a welcoming vibe and a good selection of new and used books, with many guidebooks—including mine (Tue-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun-Mon 11:00-18:00, 13 Rue Georges Clemenceau, tel. 04 93 61 96 47, www.antibesbooks.com).
Laundry: There’s a launderette at 19 Avenue du Grand Cavalier (daily 8:00-20:45).
Taxi: For a taxi, call 04 93 67 67 67.
Car Rental: The big-name agencies have offices in Antibes (all close Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00 and all day Sun). The most central are Avis (at the train station, tel. 04 93 34 65 15) and Hertz (across from the train station at 52 Avenue Robert Soleau, tel. 04 92 91 28 00).
Bike Rental: The TI has a list of places where you can rent bikes (including electric bikes). A bike path leads along the sea toward Nice, and bikes are a good way for nondrivers to reach the hikes described later.
Boat Rental: You can motor your own seven-person yacht thanks to Antibes Bateaux Services (€100/half-day, at the small fish market on the port, mobile 06 15 75 44 36, www.antibes-bateaux.com).
Antibes’ buses (Envibus) cost €1 and are handiest for carless travelers wanting access to Cap d’Antibes. Bus #14 links the train station, bus station, old town, and Plage de la Salis. It also takes you to Fort Carré, where free parking is available. Bus #2 provides access to the best beaches, the path to La Phare de la Garoupe, and the Cap d’Antibes trail. It runs from the bus station down Boulevard Albert I (daily 7:00-19:00, every 40 minutes). Pick up a schedule at the bus station.
A tourist train offers 40-minute circuits around old Antibes, the port, the ramparts, and to Juan-les-Pins (€8, departs from pedestrian-only Rue de la République).
This 40-minute self-guided walk will help you get your bearings, and works well day or night.
• Begin at the old port (Vieux Port) at the southern end of Avenue de Verdun. Stand at the port, across from the archway with the clock.
Old Port: Locals claim that this is Europe’s first and biggest pleasure-boat harbor, with 1,600 stalls. That star-shaped stone structure crowning the opposite end of the port is Fort Carré, which protected Antibes from foreigners for more than 500 years.
The pathetic remains of a once-hearty fishing fleet are moored in front of you. The Mediterranean is pretty much fished out. Most of the seafood you’ll eat here comes from fish farms or the Atlantic.
• With the port on your left, pass the sorry fleet and duck under the arches to the shell-shaped...
Plage de la Gravette: This normally quiet public beach is tucked right in the middle of old Antibes. Consider the scale of the ramparts that protected this town. Because Antibes was the last fort before the Italian border, the French king made sure the ramparts were top-notch. The twin towers crowning the old town are the church’s bell tower and the tower topping Château Grimaldi (today’s Picasso Museum). As you face the old town, forested Cap d’Antibes is the point of land in the distance to the left. Is anyone swimming? Locals don’t swim much in July and August because of jellyfish—common now in warmer water. Throughout the Mediterranean, you’ll see red flags warning of dangerous storms or tides. Many beaches now also have white flags with jellyfish symbols warning that swimming might be a stinging experience.
• For a close-up look at the megayachts and a walk along the ramparts, follow this fun detour. Otherwise, skip ahead to the “Market Hall” stop.
Antibes’ Megayacht Harbor: For a glimpse at the epitome of conspicuous consumption, take a three-block detour to the right as you leave Plage de la Gravette. You’ll walk along the harbor under the ramparts; enjoy the historic drawings and photos of the port along the wall.
You’ll eventually reach a restricted area harboring massive yachts. Walk in and browse the line of huge pleasure craft stern-tied to the pier (which was built in the 1970s with financial aid from mostly Saudi Arabian yacht owners, who wanted a decent place to tie up). Locals call this the Quai des Milliardaires (“billionaire’s dock”).
Just outside the restricted area, climb up the rampart and make your way to the modern white sculpture. Nomade—a man of letters looking pensively out to sea—was created in 2010 by the Spaniard Jaume Plensa. You can sit in it and ponder how communication forms who we are and links all people.
• Now let’s backtrack to where we started and enter Antibes’ old town through the arch under the clock. You can walk directly up the main street to get to our next stop, but here’s a more scenic option: Passing through the gate, turn immediately left, walk along the wall, and then up the stairs. At the terrace corner is another fine viewpoint. Turn right and walk straight through the arch at #14 and into Place du Revely, the most picturesque corner of the old town. On Place du Revely, turn right, and go downhill under three arches. Continue down the ramp and uphill straight into the old town and Antibes’ market hall, Le Marché Provençal.
Market Hall: Antibes’ market hall bustles under a 19th-century canopy, with flowers, produce, Provençal products, and beach accessories. The market wears many hats: produce until 13:30 (daily except closed Mon Sept-May), handicrafts most afternoons (Thu-Sun), and fun outdoor dining in the evenings, on Cours Masséna.
On the right (at the corner of Rue Sade), a pretty shop hides an atmospheric absinthe bar in its ninth-century vaulted cellar. You’re welcome to go through the shop (or enter on Rue Sade) and descend to find an amazing collection of absinthe fountains, the oldest dating from the 1860s. Frédéric will gladly show you his memorabilia. You can even taste the now-legal drink to better understand Picasso.
• Facing the front of the market, go left uphill on Rue Christian Chessel and find the pretty pastel...
Church of the Immaculate Conception: Built on the site of a Greek temple, this is worth a peek inside. A church has stood on this site since the 12th century. This one served as the area’s cathedral until the mid-1200s. The stone bell tower standing in front of the church predates it by 600 years, when it was part of the city’s defenses. Many of those heavy stones were pillaged from Antibes’ Roman monuments.
• Looming above the church on prime real estate is the white-stone...
Château Grimaldi: This site was home to the acropolis of the Greek city of Antipolis and later a Roman fort. Later still, the château was the residence of the Grimaldi family (a branch of which still rules Monaco). Today it houses Antibes’ Picasso Museum. Its proximity to the cathedral symbolized the sometimes too-cozy relationship between society’s two dominant landowning classes: the Church and the nobility. (In 1789, the French Revolution changed all that.)
• After visiting the Picasso Museum (described below), exit to the left. Work your way through the warren of pretty lanes, then head out to the water, turn right along the ramparts, and find a sweeping sea view. As you walk, you’ll pass a charming neighborhood (La Commune Libre du Safranier) on your right. The rampart walk leads to a viewpoint atop the History and Archaeology Museum.
Viewpoint: From this perch you can enjoy a clear view of Cap d’Antibes (to the south), crowned by its lighthouse and studded with mansions (a proposed hike here is described later). The Cap was long the refuge of Antibes’ rich and famous, and a favorite haunt of F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway.
• After taking a quick spin through the History and Archaeology Museum (see here), continue hugging the shore past Place Albert I until you see the views back to old Antibes. Benches and soft sand await. Energetic walkers can continue on the trail, which leads all the way to Cap d’Antibes (see here); others can return to old Antibes and wander around in its peaceful back lanes.
Sitting serenely where the old town meets the sea, this compact three-floor museum offers a manageable collection of Picasso’s paintings, sketches, and ceramics. Picasso lived in this castle for four months in 1946, when he cranked out an amazing amount of art (most of the paintings you’ll see are from this short but prolific stretch of his long and varied career). He was elated by the end of World War II, and his works show a celebration of color and a rediscovery of light after France’s long nightmare of war. Picasso was also re-energized by his young and lovely companion, Françoise Gilot (with whom he would father two children). The resulting collection (donated by Picasso) put Antibes on the tourist map.
Cost and Hours: €6; mid-June-mid-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00 plus July-Aug Wed and Fri until 20:00, mid-Sept-mid-June Tue-Sun 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Mon year-round; tel. 04 92 90 54 20, www.antibes-juanlespins.com.
Visiting the Museum: The museum’s highlight is on the top floor, where you’ll find the permanent collection of Picasso’s works. Visitors are greeted by a large image of Picasso and a display of photographs of the artist at work and play during his time in Antibes. The first gallery room (up the small staircase to your left) houses several famous works, including the lively, frolicking, and big-breasted La Joie de Vivre painting (from 1946). This Greek bacchanal sums up the newfound freedom of a just-liberated France and sets the tone for the rest of the collection. You’ll also see the colorless, three-paneled Satyr, Faun, and Centaur with Trident and several ceramic creations. Tour the rest of the floor clockwise, noticing the focus on sea creatures, tridents, and other marine themes (oursin is a sea urchin, poulpe is an octopus, and poisson is, well, fishy). Nature morte means still life, and you’ll see many of these in this collection.
As you tour the museum, you’ll see both black-and-white and colorful ink sketches that challenge the imagination—these show off Picasso’s skill as a cartoonist and caricaturist. Look also for the Basque fishermen and several Cubist-style nudes (nus couchés), one painted on plywood.
Near the end, don’t miss the wall devoted to Picasso’s ceramic plates. In 1947, inspired by a visit to a ceramics factory in nearby Vallauris, Picasso discovered the joy of this medium. He was smitten by the texture of soft clay and devoted a great deal of time to exploring how to work with it—producing over 2,000 pieces in one year. In the same room, the wall-sized painting Ulysses and the Sirens screams action and anxiety. Lashed to the ship mast, Ulysses survives the temptation of the sirens.
More than 2,000 years ago, Antibes was the center of a thriving maritime culture. It was an important Roman city with aqueducts, theaters, baths, and so on. This museum—the only place to get a sense of the city’s ancient roots—displays Greek, Roman, and Etruscan odds and ends in two simple halls (no English descriptions). Your visit starts at an 1894 model of Antibes and continues past displays of Roman coins, cups, plates, and scads of amphorae. The lanky lead pipe connected to a center box was used as a bilge pump; nearby is a good display of Roman anchors made of lead.
Cost and Hours: €3; mid-June-mid-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, mid-Sept-mid-June Tue-Sun 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Mon year-round; on the water between Picasso Museum and Place Albert I, tel. 04 92 95 85 98, www.antibes-juanlespins.com.
This impressively situated, mid-16th-century citadel, on the headland overlooking the harbor, protected Antibes from Nice (which until 1860 wasn’t part of France). You can tour this unusual star-shaped fort (€3) for the fantastic views over Antibes, but there’s little to see inside.
Good beaches stretch from the south end of Antibes toward Cap d’Antibes. They’re busy but manageable in summer and on weekends, with cheap snack stands and good views of the old town. The closest beach to the old town is at the port (Plage de la Gravette), which seems calm in any season.
I list two good hikes below. Where Boulevard Albert I meets the beach (at Place Albert I), you get a good view of Plage de la Salis and Cap d’Antibes. That tower on the hill is your destination for the first hike. The longer Cap d’Antibes hike begins on the next beach, just over that hill. The two hikes are easy to combine by bus, bike, or car.
The territorial views—best in the morning, skippable if hazy—from this viewpoint more than merit the 20-minute uphill climb from Plage de la Salis (a few blocks after Maupassant Apartments, where the road curves left, follow signs and the rough, cobbled Chemin du Calvaire up to lighthouse tower). An orientation table explains that you can see from Nice to Cannes and up to the Alps.
Getting There: Take bus #2 or bus #14 to the Plage de la Salis stop and find the trail a block ahead. By car or bike, follow signs for Cap d’Antibes, then look for Chapelle et Phare de la Garoupe signs.
Cap d’Antibes itself is filled with exclusive villas and mansions protected by high walls. Roads are just lanes, bounded on both sides by the high and greedy walls in this home of some of the most expensive real estate in France (and where “public” seems like a necessary evil). But all the money in the world can’t buy you the beach in France, so a thin strip of rocky coastline forms a two-mile long, park-like zone with an extremely scenic, mostly paved, but often rocky, trail (Sentier Touristique de Tirepoil).
As you walk, you’ll have fancy fences with security cameras on one side and dramatic sea views on the other. The public space is rarely more than 50 yards wide and often extremely rocky—impassible if not for the paved trail carved out of it for the delight of hikers.
At a fast clip you can walk the entire circle in just over an hour. Don’t do the hike without the tourist map (available at hotels or the TI). While you can do it in either direction (or in partial segments), I’d do the entire loop counterclockwise like this:
From the La Fontaine bus stop (see “Getting There,” later), walk five minutes down Avenue Mrs. L. D. Beaumont to the gate of the Villa Eilenroc. From here leave the road and enter a trail, skirting the villa on your left, and walk five more minutes to the rocky coastal trail. Now turn left and follow the trail for nearly an hour around Cap Gros. There’s no way to get lost without jumping into the sea or scaling villa security walls. You return to civilization at a tiny resort (Plage de la Garoupe), with an expensive restaurant, a fine beach (both public and private), and a fun and inexpensive beachside bar/restaurant. From here it’s a 10-minute walk uphill to your starting point and the bus stop. With a car (or bike), you could start and end at Plage de la Garoupe. For a shorter version, walk from Plage de la Garoupe to Cap Gros and back.
Getting There: Ride bus #2 from Antibes for about 15 minutes to the La Fontaine stop at Rond-Point A. Meiland (next to the recommended Hôtel Beau-Site). By car or bike, follow signs to Cap d’Antibes, then to Plage de la Garoupe, and park there. The trail begins at the far-right end of Plage de la Garoupe.
The low-rise town of Juan-les-Pins, sprawling across the Cap d’Antibes isthmus from Antibes, is where the action is...after hours. It’s a modern waterfront resort with good beaches, plenty of lively bars and restaurants, and a popular jazz festival in July. The town is also known for its clothing boutiques that stay open until midnight (people are too busy getting tanned to shop at normal hours). As locals say, “Party, sleep in, shop late, party more.”
Getting There: Buses, trains, and even a tourist train (see “Getting Around Antibes” on here) make the 10-minute trip to and from Antibes constantly.
($$$$ = Splurge, $$$ = Pricier, $$ = Moderate, $ = Budget)
Several sleepable options are available in the town center, but my favorite Antibes hotels are farther out and most convenient for drivers.
$$$ Hôtel Pension le Mas Djoliba*** is a traditional manor house with chirping birds and a flower-filled moat. While convenient for drivers, it’s workable for walkers (10-minute walk to Plage de la Salis, 15 minutes to old Antibes). Bigger rooms are worth the additional cost, and several rooms come with small decks (several good family rooms, no elevator but just three floors, boules court and loaner balls; 29 Avenue de Provence—from Boulevard Albert I, look for gray signs two blocks before the sea, turn right onto Boulevard Général Maizière, and follow signs; tel. 04 93 34 02 48, www.hotel-djoliba.com, contact@hotel-djoliba.com, Delphine).
$$$ Hôtel la Jabotte** is a cozy boutique hotel hidden along an ignored alley a block from the famous beaches and a 15-minute walk from the old town. Run with panache by Nathalie, the hotel’s rich colors and decor show a personal touch. The cozy rooms have tight bathrooms and individual terraces facing a small, central garden where you’ll get to know your neighbor (free breakfast for Rick Steves readers, free parking for Rick Steves readers if available, 13 Avenue Max Maurey, take the third right after passing Hôtel Josse, tel. 04 93 61 45 89, www.jabotte.com, info@jabotte.com).
$$$ Hôtel Beau-Site,*** my only listing on Cap d’Antibes, is a 10-minute drive from town. It’s a terrific value if you want to get away...but not too far away. (Without a car, you’ll feel isolated.) Helpful Nathalie and Francine welcome you with a pool, a comfy patio garden, and free, secure parking. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, and several have balconies (electric bikes available, 141 Boulevard Kennedy, tel. 04 93 61 53 43, www.hotelbeausite.net, contact@hotelbeausite.net). The hotel is a 10-minute walk from Plage de la Garoupe on the Cap d’Antibes loop hike (described earlier).
$$ Bastide de la Brague is an easygoing bed-and-breakfast hacienda up a dirt road a 10-minute drive east of Antibes. The fun-loving family (wife Isabelle, who speaks English, and hubby Franck) rent seven comfy rooms; several are ideal for families. For a down-home experience, consider staying here (RS%, family rooms, includes breakfast, 55 Avenue No. 6, tel. 04 93 65 73 78, www.labastidedelabrague.com, bastidebb06@gmail.com). From Antibes, follow Nice par Bord de la Mer signs, turn left toward Marineland, then right at the roundabout (toward Groules), then follow the green signs. Antibes bus #10 drops you five minutes away, and if arranged in advance, they can pick you up at the Biot or Antibes train station.
$$$ Hôtel la Place*** is central, pricey, and cozy. It overlooks the ugly bus station with tastefully designed rooms and a comfy lounge (no elevator, 1 Avenue 24 Août, tel. 04 97 21 03 11, www.la-place-hotel.com, contact@la-place-hotel.com).
$$ Hôtel Relais du Postillon,** with cute rooms at good rates, is a mellow place above a peaceful café on a central square. There are a few cheap true singles and 16 tastefully decorated doubles, some with small balconies, and others with good terraces (tiny elevator, pay parking, 8 Rue Championnet, tel. 04 93 34 20 77, www.relaisdupostillon.com, relais@relaisdupostillon.com).
$ Modern Hôtel,** in the pedestrian zone behind the bus station, is suitable for budget-conscious travelers. The 17 standard-size rooms are simple and spick-and-span (no elevator, 1 Rue Fourmillière, tel. 04 92 90 59 05, www.modernhotel06.com, modern-hotel@wanadoo.fr).
(See “Antibes” map, here.)
($$$$ = Splurge, $$$ = Pricier, $$ = Moderate, $ = Budget)
Antibes is a fun place to dine out. With so many good options, all within a few blocks of each other, I’d take a walk and survey these places for yourself.
Antibes’ market hall (Marché Provençal) is chockablock with diners each evening after the market stalls close. The food can be good, prices are usually reasonable, and sucking snails under a classic 19th-century canopy can make for a great memory. If considering dinner here, remember that tourists generally eat early while the locals dine late.
$$ Chez Lulu is a fun family dining adventure that seems out of place on the Riviera. Diners fork over €25, and owner Greg (who speaks good English) does the rest, dishing out charcuterie, salads, a main course, and desserts to be shared family-style. Tables seat 6-10, and the setting is warm. It’s a great way to meet others (book a day ahead or arrive early, opens at 19:00, closed Sun-Mon, tel. 04 89 89 08 92, 5 Rue Frédéric Isnard).
$$ L’Aubergine’s is an intimate and feminine-feeling little place where Jenny delivers fine cuisine at fair prices, including good vegetarian options (from 18:30, closed Wed, 7 Rue Sade, tel. 04 93 34 55 93).
$$$$ Le Vauban is a dressy place, popular with locals for a special event and its seafood (closed for lunch Mon and Wed and all day Tue, opposite 4 Rue Thuret, tel. 04 93 34 33 05, www.levauban.fr).
$$$ Le Brulot, an institution in Antibes, is known for its Provençal cuisine and meats cooked on an open fire. It’s a small place, overflowing onto the street, with a few outside tables and a dining room below (big, splittable portions, closed Sun, 2 Rue Frédéric Isnard, tel. 04 93 34 17 76).
$$ Le Brulot Pasta & Vino serves hearty pizza and big portions of pasta. This family-friendly place has indoors-only seating in a noisy and fun, air-conditioned cellar under stone arches (daily, dinners only, 3 Rue Frédéric Isnard, tel. 04 93 34 19 19).
$$$ La Taille de Guêpe is a local favorite with fresh, colorful, and light cuisine. The interior blends stone walls with feminine decor and modern touches. The well-presented and health-conscious cuisine is delicious, and the moëlleux au chocolat is a perfect way to end your meal (reservations recommended, closed Sun-Mon, 24 Rue de Fersen, tel. 04 93 74 03 58).
Picnic on the Beach or Ramparts: Romantics on a shoestring can drop by the handy L’Épicerie du Marché (a little grocery store open daily until 23:00, up the hill from the market hall at 3 Cours Masséna) and assemble their own picnic dinner to enjoy on the beach or ramparts. There’s also a Monoprix, located on Place Général de Gaulle (Mon-Sat 8:30-20:30, Sun 9:00-12:30).
For a comparison of train and bus connections, see the “Public Transportation in the French Riviera” sidebar on here.
From Antibes by Train: TGV and local trains serve Antibes’ little station. Trains go to Cannes (2/hour, 15 minutes), Nice (2/hour, 20 minutes), Grasse (1/hour, 40 minutes), Villefranche-sur-Mer (2/hour, 40 minutes), Monaco (2/hour, 50 minutes), and Marseille (16/day, 2.5 hours).
By Bus: All the buses listed below serve the Pôle d’Echange bus stops behind the train station. Handy bus #200 ties everything together, but runs at a snail’s pace when traffic is bad (4/hour Mon-Sat, 2/hour Sun, any ride costs €1.50). This bus goes west to Cannes (35 minutes) and east to Nice (1.5 hours).
Bus #250 runs from behind Antibes’ train station to Nice Airport (2/hour, 40 minutes, €11; cross over the tracks on the pedestrian bridge—it’s the last shelter to the right).
For a verdant, rocky, fresh escape from the beaches, head inland and upward. Some of France’s most perfectly perched hill towns and splendid scenery hang overlooked in this region that’s more famous for beaches and bikinis. Driving is the easiest way to get around, though the bus gets you to many of the places described. Vence and St-Paul-de-Vence are well served by bus from Nice (see “Nice Connections” on here). For a scenic inland train ride, take the narrow-gauge train from Nice into the Alps (see here).
This most famous Riviera hill town is also the most-visited village in France. And it feels that way—like an overrun and over-restored artist shopping mall. Its attraction is understandable, as every cobble and flower seems just so, and the setting is postcard-perfect. Avoid visiting between 11:00 and 18:00, particularly on weekends. Beat the crowds by skipping breakfast at your hotel and eating it in St-Paul-de-Vence, or come for dinner and experience the village at its tranquil best.
The helpful TI, just through the gate into the old city on Rue Grande, has maps with minimal explanations of key buildings (daily 10:00-18:00, June-Sept until 19:00, closed for lunch on weekends). The TI offers walking tours with English translations, including tours focused on history, art, and pétanque (boules). Call or email in advance to reserve (€7, tel. 04 93 32 86 95, www.saint-pauldevence.com, serviceguide@saint-pauldevence.com).
Arrive early to park near the village (cars are not allowed inside St-Paul). Bus #400 (connects with Nice and Vence) stops on the main road, a short walk from the village. If the traffic-free lane leading to the old city is jammed, walk along the road that veers up and left just after Café de la Place, and enter the town through its side door.
St-Paul’s old city has no essential sights, though its lovely cobbled lanes and peekaboo views delight most who come. You’ll pass the vintage Café de la Place on entering the village—a classic place to have a coffee and croissant and watch as waves of tourists crash into the town (daily from 7:00, tel. 04 93 32 80 03). On the square, serious boules competitions take place all day long. Meander deep into St-Paul-de-Vence’s quieter streets to find panoramic views. Visit Marc Chagall’s grave in the cemetery at the opposite end of town (from the cemetery entrance, turn right, then left; it’s the third gravestone). Walk up the stairs to the view platform and try to locate the hill town of Vence at the foot of an impressive mountain. Is the sea out there—somewhere?
This inviting, pricey, and far-out private museum is situated a steep walk or short drive above St-Paul-de-Vence. Fondation Maeght (fohn-dah-shown mahg) offers an excellent introduction to modern Mediterranean art by gathering many of the Riviera’s most famous artists under one roof. Sadly, there are no English explanations anywhere.
Cost and Hours: €15, €5 to take photos, daily July-Sept 10:00-19:00, Oct-June 10:00-18:00, tel. 04 93 32 81 63, www.fondation-maeght.com.
Getting There: The museum is a steep uphill-but-doable 20-minute walk from St-Paul-de-Vence and the bus stop. Signs indicate the way (parking is usually available at the upper lot). From the lower lot, signed Parking Conseille, a shortcut on a steep, dirt path through the trees leads directly to the green gate in front of the ticket booth.
Visiting the Museum: The founder, Aimé Maeght, long envisioned the perfect exhibition space for the artists he supported and befriended as an art dealer. He purchased this arid hilltop, planted 35,000 plants, and hired an architect (José Luis Sert) with the same vision.
A sweeping lawn laced with amusing sculptures and bending pine trees greets visitors. On the right, a chapel designed by Georges Braque—in memory of the Maeghts’ young son, who died of leukemia—features a moving purple stained-glass work over the altar. The unusual museum building is purposely low profile, to let its world-class modern-art collection take center stage. Works by Fernand Léger, Joan Miró, Alexander Calder, Georges Braque, and Marc Chagall are thoughtfully arranged in well-lit rooms. The backyard of the museum has views, a Gaudí-esque sculpture labyrinth by Miró, and a courtyard filled with the wispy works of Alberto Giacometti. The only permanent collection in the museum consists of the sculptures, though the museum keeps a good selection of paintings by the famous artists here year-round. There’s also a great gift shop and cafeteria.
$$$ Le Tilleul is the place to dine well in St-Paul, with inviting tables on a broad terrace or in the cozy interior (à la carte only, open daily, tel. 04 93 32 80 36, www.restaurant-letilleul.com).
Book well ahead at $$$$ La Colombe d’Or, a historic place where the menu hasn’t changed in 50 years. Back when the town was teeming with artists, this restaurant served as their clubhouse. Walls are covered with paintings by Picasso, Miró, Braque, Chagall, and others, who were given free meals in exchange for their art. Dine on good-enough cuisine inside by the fire to best feel its pulse; figure €60/person with wine (across from Café de la Place, closed Nov-Dec, tel. 04 93 32 80 02, www.la-colombe-dor.com; for reservations, email contact@la-colombe-dor.com).
Vence is a well-discovered yet appealing town set high above the Riviera. While growth has sprawled beyond Vence’s old walls, and cars jam its roundabouts, the mountains are front and center, and the breeze is fresh. Vence bubbles with workaday life and ample tourist activity in the day but is quiet at night, with fewer visitors and cooler temperatures than along the coast. Vence makes a handy base for travelers wanting the best of both worlds: a hill-town refuge near the sea.
Vence’s fully loaded TI faces the main square at 8 Place du Grand Jardin, across from the merry-go-round. It offers free Wi-Fi, bus schedules, and a city map with a well-devised self-guided walking tour that incorporates informative wall plaques. Pick up the list of art galleries with helpful descriptions of the collections. Ask about their pétanque instructions with boules to rent and about guided walking tours in English (April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-18:00; Nov-March Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun; tel. 04 93 58 06 38, www.ville-vence.fr).
Bus #94 or #400 (from Nice, Cagnes-sur-Mer, and St-Paul-de-Vence) drops you at the bus stop labeled Halte Routière de l’Ara, which is on a roundabout at Place Maréchal Juin. It’s a 10-minute walk to the town center along Avenue Henri Isnard or Avenue de la Résistance. If arriving by car, follow signs to cité historique and park in the underground Parking Grand Jardin, across from the TI. Some hotels offer discounted rates for parking.
Market day in the cité historique (old town) is on Friday mornings on Place Clemenceau. A big all-day antiques market is on Place du Grand Jardin every Wednesday. If you miss market day, a Monoprix supermarket is on Avenue de la Résistance, across from the entrance to the Marie Antoinette parking lot (grocery store upstairs, Mon-Sat 8:30-20:00, Sun 9:00-13:00). For a taxi, call 04 93 58 11 14.
This 17th-century mansion, adjoining an imposing 12th-century watchtower, bills itself as “one of the Riviera’s high temples of modern art,” with a rotating collection. Check with the TI to see what’s playing in the temple.
Cost and Hours: €6, Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00, closed Mon, tel. 04 93 58 15 78.
The chapel, a short drive or 20-minute walk from town, was designed by an elderly and ailing Henri Matisse as thanks to the Dominican sister who had taken care of him (he was 81 when the chapel was completed). While the chapel is the ultimate pilgrimage for his fans, the experience may underwhelm others. (Picasso thought it looked like a bathroom.)
Cost and Hours: €5; Mon, Wed, and Sat 14:00-17:30, Tue and Thu 10:00-11:30 & 14:00-17:30, Sun only open for Mass at 10:00 followed by tour of chapel, closed Fri and mid-Nov-mid-Dec; 466 Avenue Henri Matisse, tel. 04 93 58 03 26.
Getting There: It’s a 20-minute walk from the TI. Turn right out of the TI and take your first right and then a quick left onto Avenue Henri Isnard, then continue all the way to the traffic circle. Turn right across the one-lane bridge on Avenue Henri Matisse, following signs to St-Jeannet.
Visiting the Chapel: The modest chapel holds a simple series of charcoal black-on-white tile sketches and uses three symbolic colors as accents: yellow (sunlight and the light of God), green (nature), and blue (the Mediterranean sky). Bright sunlight filters through the stained-glass windows and does a cheery dance across the sketches.
Your entry ticket includes a 20-minute tour from one of the kind nuns who speaks English. Photography is not allowed. Downstairs you’ll find displays of the vestments Matisse designed for the priests, his models of the chapel, and sketches.
Matisse was the master of leaving things out. Decide for yourself whether Matisse met the goal he set himself: “Creating a religious space in an enclosed area of reduced proportions and to give it, solely by the play of colors and lines, the dimension of infinity.”
($$$$ = Splurge, $$$ = Pricier, $$ = Moderate, $ = Budget)
These places tend to close their reception desks between 12:00 and 16:00. Make arrangements in advance if you plan to arrive during this time.
$$$ La Maison du Frêne is a modern, art-packed B&B with four sumptuous suites centrally located behind the TI. Energetic and art-crazy Thierry and Guy make fine hosts (includes good breakfast, kids sleep free; next to the Château de Villeneuve at 1 Place du Frêne—turn right out of the TI, then right again, then left; tel. 04 93 24 37 83, www.lamaisondufrene.com, contact@lamaisondufrene.com).
$ Auberge des Seigneurs feels medieval. It’s a central, funky, dark-wooded place in a 17th-century building with six simple but spacious rooms over a restaurant. Ring the bell if no one is present (Wi-Fi in lobby, includes parking voucher, 1 Rue du Docteur Binet, tel. 04 93 58 04 24, www.auberge-seigneurs.com, sandrine.rodi@wanadoo.fr).
To melt into the Inland Riviera’s quiet side, drive 15 minutes from Vence to the remarkably situated, no-tourist-in-sight hill town of St-Jeannet. Views are endless and everywhere. It’s so quiet, it’s hard to believe that the beach is only 10 miles away.
At $$ The Frogs’ House, Benôit and Corinne welcome travelers with a full menu of good rooms, cooking lessons, hikes in the area, and day trips. If you don’t have wheels, they’ll pick you up at the train station or airport. Rooms are small but sharp (some rooms with balconies, family rooms, includes hearty breakfast, full-house rentals available in winter, tel. 04 93 58 98 05, mobile 06 28 06 80 28, www.thefrogshouse.fr, info@thefrogshouse.fr). A parking lot is at the bottom of St-Jeannet, a few blocks from this small hotel.
Tempting outdoor eateries litter the old town. Lights embedded in the cobbles illuminate the way after dark.
$$$ La Cassolette is an intimate place with reasonable prices and a romantic terrace across from the floodlit church (closed Tue-Wed except July-Aug, 10 Place Clemenceau, tel. 04 93 58 84 15, www.restaurant-lacassolette-vence.com).
At $$$ Les Agapes, Chef Jean-Philippe goes beyond the standard fare with lavish presentations, creative food combinations, and moderate (for the Riviera) prices. Try the sphere chocolat dessert to round out your meal (closed Mon and also Sun in off-season, 4 Place Clemenceau, tel. 04 93 58 50 64, www.les-agapes.net).
Nearby, $$$ La Litote is lauded by locals as a good value, with outdoor tables on a quiet, hidden square, and a cozy interior (closed Sun, 7 Rue de l’Evêché, tel. 04 93 24 27 82).
For less expensive, casual dining, head to Place du Peyra, where you’ll find ample outdoor seating and early dinner service. At $$ Bistro du Peyra, enjoy a relaxed dinner salad or pasta dish outdoors to the sound of the town’s main fountain (daily April-Oct, off-season closed Wed-Thu at lunch, closed Jan-Feb, 13 Place du Peyra, tel. 04 93 58 67 63).
