USING YOUR OWN MOBILE DEVICE IN EUROPE
USING A EUROPEAN SIM CARD IN A MOBILE PHONE
UNTETHERED TRAVEL: PUBLIC PHONES AND COMPUTERS
Map: How to Navigate a Roundabout
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. To study ahead and round out your knowledge and skills, check out “Resources from Rick Steves.”
The French national tourist office is a wealth of information. Before your trip, scan their website—http://us.france.fr. It has particularly good resources for special-interest travel and plenty of free-to-download brochures. Paris’ official TI website, www.parisinfo.com, offers practical information on hotels, special events, museums, children’s activities, fashion, nightlife, and more.
In France, a good first stop is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book)—except in Paris, where they aren’t very necessary. You can get plenty of information online—but I still make a point to swing by the local TI to confirm sightseeing plans, pick up a city map, and get information on public transit (including bus and train schedules), walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Prepare a list of questions and a proposed plan to double-check. Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps and printed information for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip. Towns with a lot of tourism generally have English-speaking guides available for private hire through the TI (about €100 for a two-hour guided town walk, double that for Paris).
The French call TIs by different names: Office de Tourisme and Bureau de Tourisme are used in cities; Syndicat d’Initiative and Information Touristique are used in small towns. Also look for Accueil signs in airports and at popular sights. These information booths are staffed with seasonal helpers who provide tourists with limited, though generally sufficient, information. Smaller TIs are often closed from 12:00 to 14:00 and on Sundays.
Other Helpful Services: Several private companies offer trip-planning services for a fee. Detours in France offers self-drive itinerary packages, hotel bookings, and guided tours of any region in France—ask for helpful Sarah (tel. 09 83 20 71 56, www.detours-in-france.com, sarah@detours-in-france.com). Paris Webservices focuses on Paris-specific assistance (tel. 01 45 56 91 67 or 09 52 06 02 59, www.pariswebservices.com, contactpws@pariswebservices.com).
Emergency and Medical Help: In France, dial 112 for any emergency. For English-speaking police, call 17. To summon an ambulance (SAMU in French), call 15. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
Time Zones: France, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, see www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: You’ll find much of France closed weekdays from 12:00 to 14:00 (lunch is sacred). On Sunday, most businesses are closed (family is sacred), though some small shops such as boulangeries (bakeries) are open until noon; special events and weekly markets pop up; and museums are open all day (but public transportation options are scant). On Mondays, some businesses are closed until 14:00 and possibly all day. Smaller towns are often quiet and downright boring on Sundays and Mondays, unless it’s market day. Saturdays are virtually weekdays, with earlier closing hours at some shops. Banks are generally open on Saturday and closed on Sunday and possibly Monday. Friday and Saturday evenings are lively; Sunday evenings are quiet.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap one in Europe. You can buy low-cost hair dryers and other small appliances at Darty and Monoprix stores, which you’ll find in major cities (ask your hotelier for the closest branch).
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, many sights offer discounts for youths (usually up to age 18), students (with proper identification cards, www.isic.org), families, and groups of 10 or more. Always ask, and have your passport available at sights for proof. Seniors (age 60 and over) may get the odd discount, though these are often limited to citizens of the European Union (EU). To inquire about a senior discount, ask, “Réduction troisième âge?” (ray-dewk-see-ohn trwah-zee-ehm ahzh).
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites. You can also paste text or the URL of a foreign website into the translation window at http://translate.google.com. The Google Translate app converts spoken English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your mobile device’s camera.
This section offers advice on how to pay for purchases on your trip (including getting cash from ATMs and paying with plastic), dealing with lost or stolen cards, VAT (sales tax) refunds, and tipping.
Bring both a credit card and a debit card. You’ll use the debit card at cash machines (ATMs) to withdraw local cash for most purchases, and the credit card to pay for larger items. Some travelers carry a third card, in case one gets demagnetized or eaten by a temperamental machine. For an emergency reserve, consider bringing €200 in hard cash in €20 bills (bring euros, as dollars can be hard to change in France).
Although credit cards are widely accepted in Europe, day-to-day spending is generally more cash-based. I find cash is the easiest—and sometimes only—way to pay for cheap food, bus fare, taxis, and local guides. Having cash on hand can help you avoid a stressful predicament if you find yourself in a place that won’t accept your card.
Throughout Europe, ATMs are the easiest and smartest way for travelers to get cash. They work just like they do at home. To withdraw money from an ATM (known as a distributeur in France; dee-stree-bew-tur), you’ll need a debit card (ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo), plus a PIN code (numeric and four digits). For increased security, shield the keypad when entering your PIN code, and don’t use an ATM if anything on the front of the machine looks loose or damaged (a sign that someone may have attached a “skimming” device to capture account information). Try to withdraw large sums of money to reduce the number of per-transaction bank fees you’ll pay.
When possible, use ATMs located outside banks—a thief is less likely to target a cash machine near surveillance cameras, and if your card is munched by a machine during banking hours, you can go inside for help. Stay away from “independent” ATMs such as Travelex, Euronet, YourCash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone, which charge huge commissions, have terrible exchange rates, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (described at the end of “Credit and Debit Cards,” next). Although you can use a credit card to withdraw cash at an ATM, this comes with high bank fees and only makes sense in an emergency.
While traveling, if you want to access your accounts online, be sure to use a secure connection (see here).
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
For purchases, Visa and MasterCard are more commonly accepted than American Express. Just like at home, credit or debit cards work easily at larger hotels, restaurants, and shops. I typically use my debit card to withdraw cash to pay for daily purchases. I use my credit card sparingly: to book and pay for hotel rooms, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, to cover major expenses (such as car rentals or plane tickets), and to pay for things online or near the end of my trip (to avoid another visit to the ATM). While you could instead use a debit card for these purchases, a credit card offers a greater degree of fraud protection.
Ask Your Credit- or Debit-Card Company: Before your trip, contact the company that issued your debit or credit cards.
Confirm that your card will work overseas, and alert them that you’ll be using it in Europe; otherwise, they may deny transactions if they perceive unusual spending patterns.
Ask for the specifics on transaction fees. When you use your credit or debit card—either for purchases or ATM withdrawals—you’ll typically be charged additional “international transaction” fees of up to 3 percent (1 percent is normal). Some banks have agreements with European partners that help save on fees (for example, Bank of America customers don’t have to pay the transaction fee when using French Paribas-BNP ATMs). If your card’s fees seem high, consider getting a different card just for your trip: Capital One (www.capitalone.com) and most credit unions have low-to-no international fees.
Verify your daily ATM withdrawal limit, and if necessary, ask your bank to adjust it. I prefer a high limit that allows me to take out more cash at each ATM stop and save on bank fees; some travelers prefer to set a lower limit in case their card is stolen. Note that foreign banks also set maximum withdrawal amounts for their ATMs.
Get your bank’s emergency phone number in the US (but not its 800 number, which isn’t accessible from overseas) to call collect if you have a problem.
Ask for your credit card’s PIN in case you need to make an emergency cash withdrawal or you encounter payment machines using the chip-and-PIN system; the bank won’t tell you your PIN over the phone, so allow time for it to be mailed to you.
Chip-and-PIN Credit Cards: Europeans use chip-and-PIN credit cards (embedded with an electronic security chip and requiring a four-digit PIN). Major US banks are beginning to offer similar credit cards. Most of these are not true chip-and-PIN cards, but instead are chip-and-signature cards, for which your signature verifies your identity. These cards work in Europe for live transactions and at most payment machines, but won’t work for offline transactions such as at self-serve gas pumps.
Older American cards with just a magnetic stripe may not work at unattended payment machines, such as those at train and subway stations, toll plazas, parking garages, bike-rental kiosks, and gas pumps. If you have problems with either type of American card, try entering your card’s PIN, look for a machine that takes cash, or find a clerk who can process the transaction manually.
If you’re concerned, ask if your bank offers a true chip-and-PIN card. Andrews Federal Credit Union (www.andrewsfcu.org) and the State Department Federal Credit Union (www.sdfcu.org) offer these cards and are open to all US residents.
No matter what kind of card you have, it pays to carry euros; remember, you can always use an ATM to withdraw cash with your magnetic-stripe debit card.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants, hoteliers, or ATMs offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay even more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. Always choose the local currency.
If you lose your credit or debit card, you can stop people from using your card by reporting the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). In France, to make a collect call to the US, dial 08 00 90 06 24, then say “operator” for an English-speaking operator. European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard. For another option (with the same results), you can call these toll-free numbers in France: Visa (tel. 08 00 90 11 79) and MasterCard (tel. 08 00 90 13 87). American Express has a Paris office, but the call isn’t free (tel. 01 47 77 70 00, greeting is in French, dial 1 to speak with someone in English).
If you are the secondary cardholder, you’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for any unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping (donner un pourboire) in France isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: At cafés and restaurants, a service charge is included in the price of what you order, and it’s unnecessary to tip extra, though you can for superb service. For details on tipping in restaurants, see here.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €13, pay €14). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your French souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of about 20 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €175 (about $195) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount.
Getting your refund is straightforward and, if you buy a substantial amount of souvenirs, well worth the hassle. If you’re lucky, the merchant will subtract the tax when you make your purchase. (This is more likely to occur if the store ships the goods to your home.) Otherwise, you’ll need to:
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document, called a bordereau de détaxe. You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour before you need to check in for your flight to allow time to find the local customs office—and to stand in line. It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If they’re too large or dangerous to carry on (such as knives), pack them in your checked bags and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security; someone will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your chic new shoes, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You’ll need to return your stamped document to the retailer or its representative. Many merchants work with services, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, that have offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). At Charles de Gaulle, you’ll find them at the check-in area (or ask for help at an orange ADP info desk). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can refund your money immediately in cash or credit your card (within two billing cycles). Other refund services may require you to mail the documents from home, or more quickly, from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You are allowed to take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. You can take home many processed and packaged foods: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to France’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The black-and-white maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, and local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps. More detailed maps are sold at newsstands and bookstores.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device. Be aware that pulling up maps on the fly or looking up turn-by-turn walking directions usually requires an Internet connection—to use this feature, it’s smart to get an international data plan (see here) or only connect using Wi-Fi. With Google Maps or Apple Maps, it’s possible to download a map while online, then go offline and navigate without incurring data-roaming charges—though you can’t search for an address or get real-time walking directions. A handful of other apps, including City Maps 2Go, OffMaps, and Navfree, also allow you to use maps offline.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for Paris, Nice, Lyon, the Loire Valley châteaux, and the Dordogne’s prehistoric sights. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is on here; check online for possible museum closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late; in the off-season, hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early (arrive at least 15 minutes before opening time) or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds. For example, Paris’ Louvre and Orsay museums are open selected evenings, and the abbey at Mont St-Michel is open on summer evenings.
Many French monuments and cities (and some villages) are beautifully lit at night, making evening walks a joy. Sound-and-light shows (son et lumière) are outdoor events held at major buildings after dark; you’ll take a seat and watch an array of colored lights illuminate the facade (e.g., of the town’s cathedral) while a narrator or audioguide melodramatically tells the story of the place. These spectacles, which usually require a fee, can be a fun experience (though once is usually enough for most).
At Mont St-Michel and Carcassonne, it’s best to arrive at about 17:00, spend the night, and explore in the evening and the next morning before the crowds descend. Visit these places first thing or late in the day: Versailles, Château de Chenonceau, Les Baux, Roussillon, St-Paul-de-Vence, the Dordogne’s riverfront villages, St-Cirq-Lapopie, and Pont du Gard.
Most travelers should buy a Paris Museum Pass, which can speed you through lines and save you money. It’s also smart to book advance tickets for popular sights (for details, see here). For more money-saving tips in pricey Paris, see “Affording Paris’ Sights” on here.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit. The Louvre is more interesting if you understand why the Venus de Milo is so disarming.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Several cities offer sightseeing passes that can be worthwhile values. You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive less than 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Allow extra time for these lines in your planning. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
At churches—which often offer interesting art (usually free) and a cool, welcome seat—a modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts) is encouraged though rarely enforced.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection, which can elevate the entry price.
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item. Say the title or artist’s name, or point to the photograph in this book and ask for its location by saying, “Où est?” (oo ay).
Audioguides and Apps: Many sights rent audioguides, which generally offer worthwhile recorded descriptions in English. If you bring your own earbuds, you can enjoy better sound and avoid holding the device to your ear. To save money, bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. Increasingly, museums and sights offer apps—often free—that you can download to your mobile device (check their websites). I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for my Historic Paris Walk and self-guided tours of the Louvre, Orsay Museum, and Versailles; look for the 
in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Services: Important sights may have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
Good-value accommodations in France are generally easy to find. Choose from one- to five-star hotels (two and three stars are my mainstays), bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes, usually cheaper than hotels), hostels, campgrounds, and even homes (gîtes, rented by the week).
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list hotels scattered throughout a city, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods. My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to fancy rooms with all of the comforts.
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager and stable staff, and run with a respect for French traditions. I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a fancy gym. Most places I recommend fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations well in advance, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. Reserving ahead is particularly important for Paris—the sooner, the better. Wherever you’re staying, be ready for crowds during these holiday periods: Easter weekend; Labor Day; Ascension weekend; Pentecost weekend; Bastille Day and the week during which it falls; and the winter holidays (mid-Dec-early Jan). In August and at other times when business is slower, some Paris hotels offer lower rates to fill their rooms. Check hotel websites for the best deals.
See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in France; for tips on making reservations, see here.
Some people make reservations as they travel, calling hotels and chambres d’hôtes a few days to a week before their arrival. If you anticipate crowds (weekends are worst) on the day you want to check in, call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00, when the receptionist knows who’ll be checking out and which rooms will be available. Some apps—such as HotelTonight.com—specialize in last-minute rooms, often at business-class hotels in big cities. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest an estimated cost for a one-night stay in a standard double room with a private toilet and shower in high season, don’t include breakfast, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through a booking site, which extracts a commission and logically closes the door on special deals). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but these relative price categories remain constant.
Room rates are especially volatile at larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing” to predict demand. Rates can skyrocket during festivals and conventions, while business hotels can have deep discounts on weekends when demand plummets. For this reason, of the many hotels I recommend, it’s difficult to say which will be the best value on a given day—until you do your homework.
Once your dates are set, check the specific price for your preferred stay at several hotels. You can do this either by comparing prices online on the hotels’ own websites, or by emailing several hotels directly and asking for their best rate. Even if you start your search on a booking site such as TripAdvisor or Booking.com, you’ll usually find the lowest rates through a hotel’s own website. Some hotels offer a discount to those who stay longer than three nights. To cut costs further, try asking for a cheaper room (for example, with a shared bathroom or no window).
Additionally, some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you book. Generally, to qualify you must book directly (that is, not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show the book upon arrival, and sometimes stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
Hotels in France must charge a daily tax (taxe du séjour) of about €1-2 per person per day. Some hotels include it in their prices, but most add it to your bill.
In this book, the price for a double room ranges from €40 (very simple; toilet and shower down the hall) to €400-plus (grand lobbies, maximum plumbing, and the works), with most clustering around €80-120 (with private bathrooms; more for hotels in Paris).
The French have a simple hotel rating system based on amenities and rated by stars (indicated in this book by asterisks, from * through *****). One star is modest, two has most of the comforts, and three is generally a two-star with a fancier lobby and more elaborately designed rooms. Four-star places give marginally more comfort than those with three. Five stars probably offer more luxury than you’ll have time to appreciate. Two-star and above hotels are required to have an English-speaking staff, though nearly all hotels I recommend have someone who speaks English.
The number of stars does not always reflect room size or guarantee quality. One- and two-star hotels are less expensive, but some three-star (and even a few four-star hotels) offer good value, justifying the extra cost. Unclassified hotels (no stars) can be bargains...or depressing dumps.
Within each hotel, prices vary depending on the size of room, whether it has a tub or shower, and the bed type (tubs and twins cost more than showers and double beds). If you have a preference, ask for it. Hotels often have more rooms with tubs (which the French prefer) and are inclined to give you one by default. You can save lots by finding the rare room without a private shower or toilet.
Most French hotels now have queen-size beds—to confirm, ask, “Avez-vous des lits queen-size?” (ah-vay-voo day lee queen-size). Some hotels push two twins together under king-size sheets and blankets to make le king-size. If you’ll take either twins or a double, ask for a generic une chambre pour deux (room for two) to avoid being needlessly turned away. Many hotels have a few family-friendly rooms that open up to each other (chambres communiquantes).
Extra pillows and blankets are often in the closet or available on request. To get a pillow, ask for “Un oreiller, s’il vous plaît” (uhn oh-ray-yay, see voo play). Hotel elevators, while becoming more common, can be tiny—pack light. You may need to send your bags up one at a time.
Hotel lobbies, halls, and breakfast rooms are off-limits to smokers, though they can light up in their rooms. Still, I seldom smell any smoke in my rooms. Some hotels have nonsmoking rooms or floors—ask.
Most hotels offer some kind of breakfast (see here), but it’s rarely included in the room rates—pay attention when comparing rates between hotels. The price of breakfast correlates with the price of the room: The more expensive the room, the more expensive the breakfast. This per-person charge rises with the number of stars the hotel has and can add up, particularly for families. While hotels hope you’ll buy their breakfast, it’s optional unless otherwise noted; to save money, head to a bakery or café instead.
Some hoteliers, especially in resort towns, strongly encourage their peak-season guests to take demi-pension (half-pension)—that is, breakfast and either lunch or dinner. By law, they can’t require you to take half-pension unless you are staying three or more nights, but, in practice, some do during summer. And though the food is usually good, it limits your ability to shop around. I’ve indicated where I think demi-pension is a good value.
Hoteliers uniformly detest it when people bring food into bedrooms. Dinner picnics are particularly frowned upon: Hoteliers worry about cleanliness, smells, and attracting insects. Be tidy and considerate.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to calling an English-speaking doctor, or finding a good restaurant, Wi-Fi hotspot (point Wi-Fi, pwan wee-fee), a late-night pharmacy, or a self-service launderette (laverie automatique, lah-vay-ree oh-to-mah-teek).
Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results.
To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one.
While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, think about settling your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in. Some hoteliers will ask you to sign their Livre d’Or (literally “Golden Book,” for client comments). They take this seriously and enjoy reading your remarks.
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Modern Hotel Chains: France is littered with ultramodern hotels, providing drivers with low-stress accommodations and often located on cheap land just outside town. You’ll find some in city centers as well. The clean and inexpensive Ibis Budget chain (about €55/room for up to three people), the more attractive and spacious standard Ibis hotels (€80-110 for a double), and the cushier Mercure and Novotel hotels (€130-250 for a double) are all run by the same company, Accor (www.accorhotels.com). Though hardly quaint, these can be a good value (look for deals on their websites), particularly when they’re centrally located; I list several in this book. Other chains to consider are Kyriad, with moderate prices and good quality (www.kyriad.com) and the familiar-to-Americans Best Western (www.bestwestern.com). Château and Hotels Collection has more cushy digs (www.chateauxhotels.com).
B&Bs (chambres d’hôte, abbreviated “CH”) generally are found in smaller towns and rural areas. They’re usually family-run and a great deal, offering double the cultural intimacy for less than most hotel rooms. While you may lose some hotel conveniences—such as lounges, TVs, daily bed-sheet changes, and credit-card payments—I happily make the trade-off for the personal touch and lower rates. It’s always OK to ask to see the room before you commit. And though some CHs post small Chambres or Chambres d’hôte signs in their front windows, many are found only through the local tourist office.
I recommend reliable CHs that offer a good value and/or unique experience (such as CHs in renovated mills, châteaux, and wine domaines). While chambres d’hôte have their own star-rating system, it doesn’t correspond to the hotels’ rating system. To avoid confusion, I haven’t listed these stars for CHs. But virtually all of my recommended CHs have private in-room bathrooms and Wi-Fi, and some have common rooms with refrigerators. Doubles generally cost €60-80; fancier places are about €100-120. Breakfast is usually included—ask. Tables d’hôte are CHs that offer an optional, reasonably priced, home-cooked dinner (usually a fine value, must be requested in advance). And though your hosts may not speak English, they will almost always be enthusiastic and pleasant.
These countryside homes (pronounced “zheet”) are usually urbanites’ second homes, rentable by the week, from Saturday to Saturday. The objective of the gîte program was to save characteristic rural homes from abandonment and to make it easy and affordable for families to enjoy the French countryside. The government offers subsidies to renovate such homes, then coordinates rentals to make it financially feasible for the owner. Today, France has more than 9,000 gîtes. One of your co-authors restored a farmhouse in Burgundy, and even though he and his wife are American, they received the same assistance that French owners get.
Gîtes are best for drivers (they’re usually rural, with little public-transport access) and ideal for families and small groups (since they can sleep many for the same price). Homes range in comfort from simple cottages and farmhouses to restored châteaux. Most have at least two bedrooms, a kitchen, a living room, and a bathroom or two (BYO soap, shampoo, etc.). Sheets or linens may be included or provided for a bit extra. Like hotels, all gîtes are rated for comfort from one to four épis (ears of corn). Two or three épis generally indicate sufficient quality, but I’d lean toward three for more comfort. Prices generally range from €500 to €1,500 per week, depending on house size and amenities such as pools. Some owners may not speak English, so be prepared for doing business in French. For more information on gîtes, visit www.gites-de-france.com (with the most rentals), www.gite.com, or www.provence-guide.com.
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative to a guesthouse or hotel, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—or even cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities.
The rental route isn’t for everyone. Many places require a minimum night stay, and compared to hotels, rentals usually have less-flexible cancellation policies. Also you’re generally on your own: There’s no hotel reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as www.airbnb.com, www.roomorama.com, and www.vrbo.com let you browse properties and correspond directly with European property owners or managers. Or, for more guidance, consider using a rental agency such as www.interhomeusa.com or www.rentavilla.com. Agency-represented apartments may cost more, but this route often offers more help and safeguards than booking directly.
To find a place, try the resources listed above, or one of these: France Homestyle, run by Claudette, a service-oriented French woman from Seattle who handpicks every home and apartment she lists (US tel. 206/325-0132, www.francehomestyle.com, info@francehomestyle.com), or Ville et Village, which has a bigger selection of higher-end places (US tel. 510/559-8080, www.villeetvillage.com). For a list of rental agencies in Paris, see here.
Before you commit to a rental, be clear on the details, location, and amenities. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using the Street View feature on Google Maps. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well-connected it is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities that are important to you (elevator, laundry, coffee maker, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reading reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots that are glossed over in the official description.
Apartments and Rental Houses: If you’re staying somewhere for four nights or longer, it’s worth considering an apartment or house (anything less than that isn’t worth the extra effort involved, such as arranging key pickup, buying groceries, etc.). Apartment and house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry machines and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in. If you make good use of the kitchen (and Europe’s great produce markets), you’ll save on your meal budget.
Private and Shared Rooms: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. Some places allow you to book for a single night; if staying for several nights, you can buy groceries just as you would in a rental house. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some may be interested in getting to know the travelers who come through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer, and who can live with the idea of having strangers in their home (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). A good place to start is HomeExchange (www.homeexchange.com).
To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
These are a fun option in canalside towns; I’ve listed a few in this book. If you’re interested in renting one for more than a night or two, try Papillon Barge (mobile 06 86 28 11 55, www.burgundycanalvacations.com) or the cheaper bed-and-breakfast Barge Nilaya (May-Sept mobile 06 89 18 80 67, Oct-April UK mobile—from the US dial 011-44-7909-151-611, www.bargenilaya.com). For a comprehensive source on enjoying the rivers and canals of France, check www.french-waterways.com.
A hostel (auberge de jeunesse) provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for about €23-35 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one for a small fee). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night.
Hip Hop Hostels is a clearinghouse for budget hotels and hostels in Paris. It’s worth a look for its good selection of cheap accommodations (tel. 01 48 78 10 00, www.hiphophostels.com).
In Europe, camping is more of a social than an environmental experience. It’s a great way for American travelers to make European friends. Camping sites average about €24 per night, and almost every destination recommended in this book has a campground within a reasonable walk or bus ride from the town center and train station. A tent, pillow, and sleeping bag are all you need. Many campgrounds have small grocery stores and washing machines, and some even come with cafés and miniature golf. Local TIs have camping information. You’ll find more detailed information in the annually updated Michelin Camping France, available in the United States and at most French bookstores.
The French eat long and well. Relaxed and tree-shaded lunches with a chilled rosé, three-hour dinners, and endless hours of sitting in outdoor cafés are the norm. Here, celebrated restaurateurs are as famous as great athletes, and mamas hope their babies will grow up to be great chefs. Cafés, cuisine, and wines should become a highlight of any French adventure: It’s sightseeing for your palate. Even if the rest of you is sleeping in a cheap hotel, let your taste buds travel first-class in France. (They can go coach in Britain.)
You can eat well without going broke—but choose carefully: You’re just as likely to blow a small fortune on a mediocre meal as you are to dine wonderfully for €20. Read the information that follows, consider my restaurant suggestions in this book, and you’ll do fine. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” Venturing even a block or two off the main drag can lead to higher-quality food for less than half the price of the tourist-oriented places.
In Paris, lunches are a particularly good value, as most places offer the same quality and similar selections for far less than at dinner. If you’re on a budget or just like going local, try making lunch your main meal, then have a lighter evening meal at a café.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest the average price of a typical main course—but not necessarily a complete meal. Obviously, expensive items (steak, seafood, truffles), fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The dollar-sign categories also indicate the overall personality and “feel” of a place:
$ Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, bakeries selling sandwiches, and so on.
$$ Moderate eateries are typically nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a straightforward, fill-the-tank meal. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for getting a good taste of the local cuisine on a budget.
$$$ Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and cuisine. These are ideal for a memorable meal that’s still relatively casual and doesn’t break the bank. This category often includes affordable “destination” or “foodie” restaurants.
$$$$ Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion-swanky—Michelin star-type restaurants, typically with an elegant setting, polished service, pricey and intricate cuisine, and an expansive (and expensive) wine list.
I haven’t categorized places where you might assemble a picnic, snack, or graze: supermarkets, delis, ice-cream stands, cafés or bars specializing in drinks, chocolate shops, and so on.
Most hotels offer an optional breakfast, which is usually pleasant and convenient (generally €10-20). They almost all offer a buffet breakfast (cereal, yogurt, fruit, cheese, ham, croissants, juice, and hard-boiled eggs). Some add scrambled eggs and sausage. Before committing to breakfast, scan the offerings to be sure it’s to your liking. Once committed, it’s self-service and as much as you want. Coffee is often self-serve from a machine or a thermos. If there’s no coffee machine and you want to make your own café au lait, find the hot milk and mix it with your coffee. If your hotelier serves your coffee, ask for café avec du lait.
If all you want is coffee or tea and a croissant, the corner café offers more atmosphere and is less expensive (though you get more coffee at your hotel). Go local at the café and ask for une tartine (ewn tart-een), a baguette slathered with butter or jam. If you crave eggs for breakfast, drop into a café and order une omelette or œufs sur le plat (fried eggs). Some cafés and bakeries offer worthwhile breakfast deals with juice, croissant, and coffee or tea for about €7 (for more on coffee and tea drinks, see here).
To keep it cheap, pick up some fruit at a grocery store and pastries at your favorite boulangerie and have a picnic breakfast, then savor your coffee at a café bar (comptoir) while standing, like the French do.
Whether going all out on a perfect French picnic or simply grabbing a sandwich to eat on an atmospheric square, dining with the city as your backdrop can be one of your most memorable meals.
Great for lunch or dinner, French picnics can be first-class affairs and adventures in high cuisine. Be daring. Try the smelly cheeses, ugly pâtés, sissy quiches, and minuscule yogurts. Shopkeepers are accustomed to selling small quantities of produce. Get a succulent salad-to-go, and ask for a plastic fork. If you need a knife or corkscrew, borrow one from your hotelier (but don’t picnic in your room, as French hoteliers uniformly detest this). Though drinking wine in public places is taboo in the US, it’s pas de problème in France.
Assembling a Picnic: Visit several small stores to put together a complete meal. Shop early, as many shops close from 12:00 or 13:00 to 15:00 for their lunch break. Say “Bonjour madame/monsieur” as you enter, then point to what you want and say, “S’il vous plaît.” For other terminology you might need while shopping, see the sidebar on here.
At the boulangerie (bakery), buy some bread. A baguette usually does the trick, or choose from the many loaves of bread on display: pain aux céréales (whole grain with seeds), pain de campagne (country bread, made with unbleached bread flour), pain complet (wheat bread), or pain de seigle (rye bread). To ask for it sliced, say “Tranché, s’il vous plaît.”
At the pâtisserie (pastry shop, which is often the same place you bought the bread), choose a dessert that’s easy to eat with your hands. My favorites are éclairs (chocolat or café flavored), individual fruit tartes (framboise is raspberry, fraise is strawberry, citron is lemon), and macarons (made of flavored cream sandwiched between two meringues, not coconut cookies like in the US).
At the crémerie or fromagerie (cheese shop), choose a sampling of cheeses (un assortiment). I usually get one hard cheese (like Comté, Cantal, or Beaufort), one soft cow’s milk cheese (like Brie or Camembert), one goat’s milk cheese (anything that says chèvre), and one blue cheese (Roquefort or Bleu d’Auvergne). Goat cheese usually comes in individual portions. For all other large cheeses, point to the cheese you want and ask for une petite tranche (a small slice). The shopkeeper will place a knife on the cheese indicating the size of the slice they are about to cut, then look at you for approval. If you’d like more, say, “Plus.” If you’d like less, say “Moins.” If it’s just right, say “C’est bon!”
At the charcuterie or traiteur (for deli items, prepared salads, meats, and pâtés), I like a slice of pâté de campagne (country pâté made of pork) and saucissons sec (dried sausages, some with pepper crust or garlic—you can ask to have it sliced thin like salami). I get a fresh salad, too. Typical options are carottes râpées (shredded carrots in a tangy vinaigrette), salade de betteraves (beets in vinaigrette), and céleri rémoulade (celery root with a mayonnaise sauce). The food comes in takeout boxes, and they may supply a plastic fork.
Market days are a big deal throughout France. They have been a central feature of life in rural areas since the Middle Ages. No single event better symbolizes the French preoccupation with fresh products, and their strong ties to the soil, than the weekly market. Many locals mark their calendars with the arrival of fresh produce.
Markets (marchés) combine products from area farmers and artisans, and offer a mind-boggling array of choices, from the perishable (produce, meats, cheeses, breads, and pastries) to the nonperishable (kitchen wares, inexpensive clothing, brightly colored linens, and pottery). Les marchés brocantes specialize in quasi-antiques and flea-market bric-a-brac. Many marchés have good selections of produce and some brocantes.
Notice the signs as you enter towns indicating the jours du marché (essential information to any civilized soul, and a reminder not to park on the streets the night before—be on the lookout for stationnement interdit signs that mark “no parking” areas). Most marchés take place once a week in the town’s main square; larger marchés spill into nearby streets.
Usually, the bigger the market, the greater the overall selection—particularly of nonperishable goods. Bigger towns (such as Beaune and Arles) may have two weekly markets. The biggest market days are usually on weekends, so that everyone can go.
Market day is as important socially as it is commercially—it’s a weekly chance for locals to resume friendships and get the current gossip. Here neighbors can catch up on Henri’s barn renovation, see photos of Jacqueline’s new grandchild, and relax over un café. Dogs are tethered to café tables while friends exchange kisses. Tether yourself to a table and observe: three cheek-kisses for good friends (left-right-left), a fourth for friends you haven’t seen in a while. (The appropriate number of kisses varies by region—Paris, Lyon, and Provence have different standards.) It’s bad form to be in a hurry on market day. Allow the crowd to set your pace.
It’s a joy to assemble picnics at an open-air market. Most perishable items are sold directly from the producers—no middlemen, no credit cards, just really fresh produce (du pays means “grown locally”). Sometimes you’ll meet a widow selling a dozen eggs, two rabbits, and a wad of herbs tied with string. But most vendors follow a weekly circuit of markets they feel works best for them, showing up in the same spot every week, year in and year out. Notice how much fun they have chatting up their customers and one another. Many vendors speak enough English to assist you in your selection. Markets usually end by 13:00—in time for lunch, allowing the town to reclaim its streets and squares.
At a cave à vin you can buy chilled wines that the merchant is usually happy to open and re-cork for you.
At a supermarché, épicerie, or magasin d’alimentation (small grocery store or minimart), you’ll find plastic cutlery and glasses, paper plates, napkins, drinks, chips, and a display of produce. Local supermarchés are less colorful than smaller stores, but cheaper, more efficient, and offer adequate quality. Department stores often have supermarkets in the basement. On the outskirts of cities, you’ll find the monster hypermarchés. Drop in for a glimpse of hyper-France in action.
Another option is to visit open-air markets (marchés), which are fun and photogenic, but shut down around 13:00 (many are listed in this book; local TIs have complete lists). For more information, see the sidebar.
You’ll find plenty of to-go options at crêperies, bakeries, and small stands. Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and pizza-like items are tasty, filling, and budget-friendly (about €5).
Sandwiches: Anything served à la provençale has marinated peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant. A sandwich à la italienne is a grilled panini. Here are some common sandwiches:
Fromage (froh-mahzh): Cheese (white on beige)
Jambon beurre (zhahn-bohn bur): Ham and butter (boring for most but a French classic)
Jambon crudités (zhahn-bohn krew-dee-tay): Ham with tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and mayonnaise
Pain salé (pan sah-lay) or fougasse (foo-gahs): Bread rolled up with salty bits of bacon, cheese, or olives
Poulet crudités (poo-lay krew-dee-tay): Chicken with tomatoes, lettuce, maybe cucumbers, and always mayonnaise
Saucisson beurre (saw-see-sohn bur): Thinly sliced sausage and butter
Thon crudités (tohn krew-dee-tay): Tuna with tomatoes, lettuce, and maybe cucumbers, but definitely mayonnaise
Quiche: Typical quiches you’ll see at shops and bakeries are lorraine (ham and cheese), fromage (cheese only), aux oignons (with onions), aux poireaux (with leeks—my favorite), aux champignons (with mushrooms), au saumon (salmon), or au thon (tuna).
Crêpes: The quintessentially French thin pancake called a crêpe (rhymes with “step,” not “grape”) is filling, usually inexpensive, and generally quick. Place your order at the crêperie window or kiosk, and watch the chef in action. But don’t be surprised if they don’t make the crêpe for you from scratch; at some crêperies, they might premake a stack of crêpes and reheat them when they fill your order.
Crêpes generally are sucrée (sweet) or salée (savory). Technically, a savory crêpe should be made with a heartier buckwheat batter, and is called a galette. However, many cheap and lazy crêperies use the same sweet batter (de froment) for both their sweet-topped and savory-topped crêpes. A socca is a chickpea crêpe.
Standard crêpe toppings include cheese (fromage; usually Swiss-style Gruyère or Emmental), ham (jambon), egg (œuf), mushrooms (champignons), chocolate, Nutella, jam (confiture), whipped cream (chantilly), apple jam (compote de pommes), chestnut cream (crème de marrons), and Grand Marnier.
To get the most out of dining out in France, slow down. Allow enough time, engage the waiter, show you care about food, and enjoy the experience as much as the food itself.
French waiters probably won’t overwhelm you with friendliness. As their tip is already included in the bill (see “Tipping,” below), there’s less schmoozing than we’re used to at home. Notice how hard they work. They almost never stop. Cozying up to clients (French or foreign) is probably the last thing on their minds. They’re often stuck with client overload, too, because the French rarely hire part-time employees, even to help with peak times. To get a waiter’s attention, try to make meaningful eye contact, which is a signal that you need something. If this doesn’t work, raise your hand and simply say, “S’il vous plaît” (see voo play)—“please.”
This phrase should also work when you want to ask for the check. In French eateries, a waiter will rarely bring you the check unless you request it. For a French person, having the bill dropped off before asking for it is très gauche. But busy travelers are often ready for the check sooner rather than later. If you’re in a hurry, ask for the bill when your server comes to clear your plates or checks in to see if you want dessert or coffee. To request your bill, say, “L’addition, s’il vous plaît.” If you don’t ask now, the wait staff may become scarce as they leave you to digest in peace. (For a list of other restaurant survival phrases, see here.)
Note that all café and restaurant interiors are smoke-free. Today the only smokers you’ll find are at outside tables, which—unfortunately—may be exactly where you want to sit.
For a list of common French dishes that you’ll see on menus, see here. For details on ordering drinks, see here.
Tipping: At cafés and restaurants, a 12-15 percent service charge is always included in the price of what you order (service compris or prix net), but you won’t see it listed on your bill. Unlike in the US, France pays servers a decent wage. Because of this, most locals only tip a little, or not at all. If you feel the service was good, tip a little—up to 5 percent. If you want the waiter to keep the change when you pay, say “C’est bon” (say bohn), meaning “It’s good.” If you are using a credit card, leave your tip in cash—credit-card receipts don’t even have space to add a tip. Never feel guilty if you don’t leave a tip.
French cafés and brasseries provide user-friendly meals and a relief from sightseeing overload. They’re not necessarily cheaper than many restaurants and bistros, and famous cafés on popular squares can be pricey affairs. Their key advantage is flexibility: They offer long serving hours, and you’re welcome to order just a salad, a sandwich, or a bowl of soup, even for dinner. It’s also OK to share starters and desserts, though not main courses.
Cafés and brasseries usually open by 7:00, but closing hours vary. Unlike restaurants, which open only for dinner and sometimes for lunch, some cafés and all brasseries serve food throughout the day (usually with a limited menu during off hours), making them the best option for a late lunch or an early dinner. Service Continu or Service Non-Stop signs indicate continued service throughout the day. Cafés in smaller towns often close their kitchens from about 14:00 until 18:00.
Check the price list first, which by law must be posted prominently (if you don’t see one, go elsewhere). There are two sets of prices: You’ll pay more for the same drink if you’re seated at a table (salle) than if you’re seated or standing at the bar or counter (comptoir). (For tips on ordering coffee and tea, see here.)
At a café or a brasserie, if the table is not set, it’s fine to seat yourself and just have a drink. However, if it’s set with a placemat and cutlery, you should ask to be seated and plan to order a meal. If you’re unsure, ask the server before sitting down.
Ordering: A salad, crêpe, quiche, or omelet is a fairly cheap way to fill up. Each can be made with various extras such as ham, cheese, mushrooms, and so on. Omelets come lonely on a plate with a basket of bread.
Sandwiches, generally served day and night, are inexpensive, but most are very plain (boulangeries serve better ones). To get more than a piece of ham (jambon) on a baguette, order a sandwich jambon crudités (garnished with veggies). Popular sandwiches are the croque monsieur (grilled ham-and-cheese) and croque madame (monsieur with a fried egg on top).
Salads are typically large and often can be ordered with warm ingredients mixed in, such as melted goat cheese, fried gizzards, or roasted potatoes. One salad is perfect for lunch or a light dinner. See here for a list of classic salads.
The daily special—plat du jour (plah dew zhoor), or just plat—is your fast, hearty, and garnished hot plate for about €12-20. At most cafés, feel free to order only entrées (which in French means the starter course); many people find these lighter and more interesting than a main course. A vegetarian can enjoy a tasty, filling meal by ordering two entrées.
Regardless of what you order, bread is free but almost never comes with butter; to get more bread, just hold up your basket and ask, “Encore, s’il vous plaît?”
Choose restaurants filled with locals. Consider my suggestions and your hotelier’s opinion, but trust your instincts. If a restaurant doesn’t post its prices outside, move along. Refer to my restaurant recommendations to get a sense of what a reasonable meal should cost.
Restaurants open for dinner around 19:00 and are most crowded about 20:00 (21:00 in cities). The early bird gets the table. Last seating is usually about 21:00 (22:00 in cities and on the French Riviera; possibly later in Paris).
Tune into the quiet, relaxed pace of French dining. The French don’t do dinner and a movie on date nights; they just do dinner. The table is yours for the night. Notice how quietly French diners speak in restaurants and how this improves your overall experience. Learn from this.
Ordering: In French restaurants, you can choose something off the menu (called the carte), or you can order a multicourse, fixed-price meal (confusingly, called a menu). Or, if offered, you can get one of the special dishes of the day (plat du jour). If you ask for un menu (instead of la carte), you’ll get a fixed-price meal.
Ordering à la carte gives you the best selection. I enjoy going à la carte especially when traveling with others and eating family style (waiters are happy to accommodate this approach and will bring small extra plates). It’s traditional to order an entrée (a starter—not a main dish) and a plat principal (main course), though it’s becoming common to order only a plat principal. Plats are generally more meat-based, while entrées usually include veggies. Multiple-course meals, while time-consuming (a positive thing in France), create the appropriate balance of veggies to meat. Elaborate meals may also have entremets—tiny dishes served between courses. Wherever you dine, consider the waiter’s recommendations and anything de la maison (of the house), as long as it’s not an organ meat (tripe, rognons, or andouillette).
Two people can split an entrée or a big salad (small-size dinner salads are usually not offered á la carte) and then each get a plat principal. At restaurants, it’s seen as inappropriate for two diners to share one main course. If all you want is a salad or soup, go to a café or brasserie.
Fixed-price menus—which usually include two, three, or four courses—are generally a better deal than eating à la carte, and help you pace your meal like the locals. At most restaurants offering fixed-price menus, the price for a two- or three-course menu is only slightly higher than a single main course from the à la carte list. With a three-course menu you’ll choose a starter of soup, appetizer, or salad; select from three or four main courses with vegetables; and finish up with a cheese course and/or a choice of desserts. It sounds like a lot of food, but portions are smaller in France, and what we cram onto one large plate they spread out over several courses. Wine and other drinks are extra, and certain premium items add a few euros to the price, clearly noted on the menu (supplément or sup.). Most restaurants offer less expensive and less filling two-course menus, sometimes called formules, featuring an entrée et plat, or plat et dessert. Many restaurants have a reasonable menu-enfant (kid’s meal).
Lunch: If a restaurant serves lunch, it generally begins at 12:00 and goes until around 14:00, with last orders taken at about 13:30. If you’re hungry when restaurants are closed (late afternoon), go to a boulangerie, brasserie, or café (see previous section). Even fancy places usually have affordable lunch menus (often called formules or plat de midi), allowing you to sample the same gourmet cooking for generally about half the cost of dinner.
Rural Dining: Restaurants are almost always a better value in the countryside than in Paris. If you’re driving, look for red-and-blue Relais Routier decals on main roads outside cities, indicating that the place is recommended by the truckers’ union. These truck-stop cafés offer inexpensive and hearty fare.
General styles of French cooking include haute cuisine (classic, elaborately prepared, multicourse meals); cuisine bourgeoise (the finest-quality home cooking); cuisine des provinces (traditional dishes of specific regions); and nouvelle cuisine (a focus on smaller portions and closer attention to the texture and color of the ingredients). Sauces are a huge part of French cooking. In the early 20th century, the legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier identified five French “mother sauces” from which all others are derived: béchamel (milk-based white sauce), espagnole (veal-based brown sauce), velouté (stock-based white sauce), hollandaise (egg yolk-based white sauce), and tomate (tomato-based red sauce).
The following list of items should help you navigate a typical French menu. Galloping gourmets should bring a menu translator. The most complete (and priciest) menu reader around is A to Z of French Food by G. de Temmerman. The Marling Menu-Master is also good. The Rick Steves French Phrase Book & Dictionary, with a menu decoder, works well for most travelers. For dishes specific to each region, see the “Cuisine Scene” sections throughout this book.
If you’re interested in learning to cook French cuisine (not just eat it), look for my listings of food tours and cooking classes or check out L’Atelier des Chefs, a network of cooking schools located in many cities throughout France, with top classes at good rates (half-hour course-€15, 1 hour-€36, 2 hours-€72, www.atelierdeschefs.fr).
Crudités: A mix of raw and lightly cooked fresh vegetables, usually including grated carrots, celery root, tomatoes, and beets, often with a hefty dose of vinaigrette dressing. If you want the dressing on the side, say, “La sauce à côté, s’il vous plaît” (lah sohs ah koh-tay, see voo play).
Escargots: Snails cooked in parsley-garlic butter. You don’t even have to like the snail itself. Just dipping your bread in garlic butter is more than satisfying. Prepared a variety of ways, the classic is à la bourguignonne (served in their shells).
Foie gras: Rich and buttery in consistency—and hefty in price—this pâté is made from the swollen livers of force-fed geese (or ducks, in foie gras de canard). Spread it on bread, and never add mustard. For a real French experience, try this dish with a sweet white wine (such as a muscat).
Huîtres: Oysters, served raw any month, are particularly popular at Christmas and on New Year’s Eve, when every café seems to have overflowing baskets in their window.
Œuf mayo: A simple hard-boiled egg topped with a dollop of flavorful mayonnaise.
Pâtés and terrines: Slowly cooked ground meat (usually pork, though game, poultry liver, and rabbit are also common) that is highly seasoned and served in slices with mustard and cornichons (little pickles). Pâtés are smoother than the similarly prepared but chunkier terrines.
Soupe à l’oignon: Hot, salty, filling—and hard to find in Paris—French onion soup is a beef broth served with a baked cheese-and-bread crust over the top.
With the exception of a salade mixte (simple green salad, often difficult to find), the French get creative with their salades. Here are some classics:
Salade au chèvre chaud: This mixed-green salad is topped with warm goat cheese on small pieces of toast.
Salade aux gésiers: Though it may not sound appetizing, this salad with chicken gizzards (and often slices of duck) is worth a try.
Salade composée: “Composed” of any number of ingredients, this salad might have lardons (bacon), Comté (a Swiss-style cheese), Roquefort (blue cheese), œuf (egg), noix (walnuts), and jambon (ham, generally thinly sliced).
Salade gourmande: The “gourmet” salad varies by region and restaurant but usually features cured and poached meats served on salad greens with a mustard vinaigrette.
Salade niçoise: A specialty from Nice, this tasty salad usually includes greens topped with green beans, boiled potatoes, tomatoes, anchovies, olives, hard-boiled eggs, and lots of tuna.
Salade paysanne: You’ll usually find potatoes (pommes de terre), walnuts (noix), tomatoes, ham, and egg in this salad.
Duck, lamb, and rabbit are popular in France, and each is prepared in a variety of ways. You’ll also encounter various stew-like dishes that vary by region. The most common regional specialties are described here.
Bœuf bourguignon: A Burgundian specialty, this classy beef stew is cooked slowly in red wine, then served with onions, potatoes, and mushrooms.
Confit de canard: A favorite from the southwest Dordogne region is duck that has been preserved in its own fat, then cooked in its fat, and often served with potatoes (cooked in the same fat). Not for dieters. (Note that magret de canard is sliced duck breast and very different in taste.)
Coq au vin: This Burgundian dish is rooster marinated ever so slowly in red wine, then cooked until it melts in your mouth. It’s served (often family-style) with vegetables.
Daube: Generally made with beef, but sometimes lamb, this is a long and slowly simmered dish, typically paired with noodles or other pasta.
Escalope normande: This specialty of Normandy features turkey or veal in a cream sauce.
Gigot d’agneau: A specialty of Provence, this is a leg of lamb often grilled and served with white beans. The best lamb is pré salé, which means the lamb has been raised in salt-marsh lands (like at Mont St-Michel).
Le hamburger: This American import is all the rage in France. Cafés and restaurants serve it using local sauces, breads, and cheeses. It’s fun to see their interpretation of our classic dish.
Poulet rôti: Roasted chicken on the bone—French comfort food.
Saumon and truite: You’ll see salmon and trout (truite) dishes served in various styles. The salmon usually comes from the North Sea and is always served with sauce, most commonly a sorrel (oseille) sauce.
Steak: Referred to as pavé (thick hunk of prime steak), bavette (skirt steak), faux filet (sirloin), or entrecôte (rib steak), French steak is usually thinner and tougher than American steak and is always served with sauces (au poivre is a pepper sauce, une sauce roquefort is a blue-cheese sauce). Because steak is usually better in North America, I generally avoid it in France (unless the sauce sounds good). You will also see steak haché, which is a lean, gourmet hamburger patty served sans bun. When it’s served as steak haché à cheval, it comes with a fried egg on top.
By American standards, the French undercook meats: Their version of rare, saignant (seh-nyahn), means “bloody” and is close to raw. What they consider medium, à point (ah pwan), is what an American would call rare. Their term for well-done, or bien cuit (bee-yehn kwee), would translate as medium for Americans.
Steak tartare: This wonderfully French dish is for adventurous types only. It’s very lean, raw hamburger served with savory seasonings (usually Tabasco, capers, raw onions, salt, and pepper on the side) and topped with a raw egg yolk. This is not hamburger as we know it, but freshly ground beef.
The cheese course is served just before (or instead of) dessert. It not only helps with digestion, it gives you a great opportunity to sample the tasty regional cheeses—and time to finish up your wine. Between cow, goat, and sheep cheeses, there are more than 350 different ones to try in France. Some restaurants will offer a cheese platter, from which you select a few different kinds. A good platter has at least four cheeses: a hard cheese (such as Cantal), a flowery cheese (such as Brie or Camembert), a blue or Roquefort cheese, and a goat cheese.
To sample several types of cheese from the cheese plate, say, “Un assortiment, s’il vous plaît” (uhn ah-sor-tee-mahn, see voo play). You’ll either be served a selection of several cheeses or choose from a large selection offered on a cheese tray. If you serve yourself from the cheese tray, observe French etiquette and keep the shape of the cheese: Shave off a slice from the side or cut small wedges.
A glass of good red wine is a heavenly complement to your cheese course.
If you order espresso, it will always come after dessert. To have coffee with dessert, ask for “café avec le dessert” (kah-fay ah-vehk luh day-sayr). See the list of coffee terms on here. Here are the types of treats you’ll see:
Baba au rhum: Pound cake drenched in rum, served with whipped cream.
Café gourmand: An assortment of small desserts selected by the restaurant, served with an espresso—a great way to sample several desserts and learn your favorite.
Crème brûlée: A rich, creamy, dense, caramelized custard.
Crème caramel: Flan in a caramel sauce.
Fondant au chocolat: A molten chocolate cake with a runny (not totally cooked) center. Also known as moelleux (meh-leh) au chocolat.
Fromage blanc: A light dessert similar to plain yogurt (yet different), served with sugar or herbs.
Glace: Ice cream—typically vanilla, chocolate, or strawberry.
Ile flottante: A light dessert consisting of islands of meringue floating on a pond of custard sauce.
Mousse au chocolat: Chocolate mousse.
Profiteroles: Cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream, smothered in warm chocolate sauce.
Riz au lait: Rice pudding.
Sorbets: Light, flavorful, and fruity ices, sometimes laced with brandy.
Tartes: Open-face pie, often filled with fruit.
Tarte tatin: Apple pie like grandma never made, with caramelized apples, cooked upside down, but served upright.
In stores, unrefrigerated soft drinks, bottled water, and beer are one-third the price of cold drinks. Bottled water and boxed fruit juice are the cheapest drinks. Avoid buying drinks to-go at street-side stands; you’ll pay far less in a shop.
In bars and at eateries, be clear when ordering drinks—you can easily pay €10 for an oversized Coke and €15 for a supersized beer at some cafés. When you order a drink, state the size in centiliters (don’t say “small,” “medium,” or “large,” because the waiter might bring a bigger drink than you want). For something small, ask for 25 centilitres (vant-sank sahn-tee-lee-truh; about 8 ounces); for a medium drink, order 33 cl (trahnte-twah; about 12 ounces—a normal can of soda); a large is 50 cl (san-kahnt; about 16 ounces); and a super-size is one liter (lee-truh; about a quart—which is more than I would ever order in France). The ice cubes melted after the last Yankee tour group left.
The French are willing to pay for bottled water with their meal (eau minérale; oh mee-nay-rahl) because they prefer the taste over tap water. Badoit is my favorite carbonated water (l’eau gazeuse; loh gah-zuhz) and is commonly available. To get a free pitcher of tap water, ask for une carafe d’eau (ewn kah-rahf doh). Otherwise, you may unwittingly buy bottled water.
In France limonade (lee-moh-nahd) is Sprite or 7-Up. For a fun, bright, nonalcoholic drink of 7-Up with mint syrup, order un diabolo menthe (uhn dee-ah-boh-loh mahnt). For 7-Up with fruit syrup, order un diabolo grenadine (think Shirley Temple). Kids love the local orange drink, Orangina, a carbonated orange juice with pulp (though it can be pricey). They also like sirop à l’eau (see-roh ah loh), flavored syrup mixed with bottled water.
For keeping hydrated on the go, hang on to the half-liter mineral-water bottles (sold everywhere for about €1-2) and refill. Buy juice in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle. Of course, water quenches your thirst better and cheaper than anything you’ll find in a store or café. I drink tap water throughout France, filling up my bottle in hotel rooms.
The French define various types of espresso drinks by how much milk is added. To the French, milk is a delicate form of nutrition: You need it in the morning, but as the day goes on, too much can upset your digestion. Therefore, the amount of milk that’s added to coffee decreases as the day goes on. The average French person thinks a café au lait is exclusively for breakfast, and a café crème is only appropriate through midday. You’re welcome to order a milkier coffee drink later in the day, but don’t be surprised if you get a funny look.
By law, a waiter must give you a glass of tap water with your coffee or tea if you request it; ask for “un verre d’eau, s’il vous plaît” (uhn vayr doh, see voo play).
Here are some common coffee and tea drinks:
Café (kah-fay): Shot of espresso
Café allongé, a.k.a. café longue (kah-fay ah-lohn-zhay; kah-fay lohn): Espresso topped up with hot water—like an Americano
Noisette (nwah-zeht): Espresso with a dollop of milk (best value for adding milk to your coffee)
Café au lait (kah-fay oh lay): Espresso mixed with lots of warm milk (used mostly for coffee made at home; in a café, order café crème)
Café crème (kah-fay krehm): Espresso with a sizable pour of steamed milk (closest thing you’ll get to an American-style latte)
Grand crème (grahn krehm): Double shot of espresso with a bit more steamed milk (and often twice the price)
Décafféiné (day-kah-fee-nay): Decaf—available for any of the above
Thé nature (tay nah-tour): Plain tea
Thé au lait (tay oh lay): Tea with milk
Thé citron (tay see-trohn): Tea with lemon
Infusion (an-few-see-yohn): Herbal tea
The legal drinking age is 16 for beer and wine and 18 for the hard stuff—at restaurants it’s normale for wine to be served with dinner to teens.
Wine: Wines are often listed in a separate carte des vins. House wine at the bar is generally cheap and good (about €3-6/glass). At a restaurant, a bottle or carafe of house wine costs €10-20. To order inexpensive wine at a restaurant, ask for table wine in a pitcher (only available when seated and when ordering food), rather than a bottle. Finer restaurants usually offer only bottles of wine.
Here are some important wine terms:
Vin du pays (van duh pay): Table wine
Verre de vin rouge (vehr duh van roozh): Glass of red wine
Verre de vin blanc (vehr duh van blahn): Glass of white wine
Demi-pichet (duh-mee pee-shay): Half-carafe
Quart (kar): Quarter-carafe (ideal for one)
Bouteille (boo-teh-ee): Bottle
Demi-bouteille (duh-mee boo-teh-ee): Half-bottle
Beer: Local bière (bee-ehr) costs about €5 at a restaurant and is cheaper on tap (une pression; ewn pres-yohn) than in the bottle. France’s best-known beers are Alsatian; try Kronenbourg or the heavier Pelfort (one of your author’s favorites). Brittany produces some fine microbrews, worth asking about if you travel there. Une panaché (ewn pah-nah-shay) is a tasty French shandy (beer and lemon soda). Un Monaco is a red drink made with beer, grenadine, and lemonade.
Aperitifs: Champagne is a popular way to start your evening in France. For a refreshing before-dinner drink, order a kir (pronounced “keer”)—a thumb’s level of crème de cassis (black currant liqueur) topped with white wine (upgrade to a kir royale if you’d like it made with Champagne). Also consider a glass of Lillet, a sweet, flowery fortified wine from Bordeaux.
After Dinner: If you like brandy, try a marc (regional brandy—e.g., marc de Bourgogne) or an Armagnac, cognac’s cheaper twin brother. Pastis, the standard southern France aperitif, is a sweet anise (licorice) drink that comes on the rocks with a glass of water. Cut it to taste with lots of water.
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer is: more easily and cheaply than you might think. For a very practical one-hour lecture covering tech issues for travelers, see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your mobile phone—either your US phone or one you buy in Europe. Or you can travel without a mobile device and use European landlines and computers to connect. Each of these options is described below, and you’ll find even more details at www.ricksteves.com/phoning.
Without an international plan, typical rates from major service providers (AT&T, Verizon, etc.) for using your device abroad are about $1.70/minute for voice calls, 50 cents to send text messages, 5 cents to receive them, and $10 to download one megabyte of data. At these rates, costs can add up quickly. Here are some budget tips and options.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, you’re best off saving most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi (pronounced wee-fee in French). You can access the Internet, send texts, and make voice calls over Wi-Fi.
Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) have free hotspots for customers; look for signs offering it and ask for the Wi-Fi password when you buy something. You’ll also often find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, important train stations, airports, aboard trains and buses, and at some autoroute (highway) rest stops.
Sign up for an international plan. Most providers offer a global calling plan that cuts the per-minute cost of phone calls and texts, and a flat-fee data plan. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Before your trip, call your provider or check online to confirm that your phone will work in Europe, and research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. When you can’t find Wi-Fi, you can use your cellular network to connect to the Internet, text, or make voice calls. When you’re done, avoid further charges by manually switching off “data roaming” or “cellular data” (in your device’s Settings menu; for help, ask your service provider or Google it). Another way to make sure you’re not accidentally using data roaming is to put your device in “airplane” or “flight” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts), and then turn on Wi-Fi as needed.
Don’t use your cellular network for bandwidth-gobbling tasks, such as Skyping, downloading apps, and watching YouTube: Save these for when you’re on Wi-Fi. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can take lots of data, so do this sparingly or use it offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates apps. It’s smart to disable these features so your apps will only update when you’re on Wi-Fi, and to change your device’s email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
It’s also a good idea to keep track of your data usage. On your device’s menu, look for “cellular data usage” or “mobile data” and reset the counter at the start of your trip.
Use Skype or other calling/messaging apps for cheaper calls and texts. Certain apps let you make voice or video calls or send texts over the Internet for free or cheap. If you’re bringing a tablet or laptop, you can also use them for voice calls and texts. All you have to do is log on to a Wi-Fi network, then contact any of your friends or family members who are also online and signed into the same service. You can make voice and video calls using Skype, Viber, FaceTime, and Google+ Hangouts. If the connection is bad, try making an audio-only call. You can also make voice calls from your device to telephones worldwide for just a few cents per minute using Skype, Viber, or Hangouts if you buy credit first.
Whether phoning from a US landline or mobile phone, or from a number in another European country, here’s how to make an international call. I’ve used one of my recommended Paris hotels as an example (tel. 01 47 05 25 45).
Initial Zero: Drop the initial zero from international phone numbers—except when calling Italy.
Mobile Tip: If using a mobile phone, the “+” sign can replace the international access code (for a “+” sign, press and hold “0”).
Dial 011 (US/Canada international access code), country code (33 for France), and phone number.
To call the Paris hotel from home, dial 011 33 1 47 05 25 45.
Dial 00 (Europe international access code), country code, and phone number.
To call the Paris hotel from Spain, dial 00 33 1 47 05 25 45.
Dial 00, country code (1 for US/Canada), and phone number.
To call from Europe to my office in Edmonds, Washington, dial 00-1-425-771-8303.
To call within France (from one French landline or mobile phone to another), simply dial the phone number, including the initial 0 if there is one.
To call the Paris hotel from Nice, dial 01 47 05 25 45.
French Phone Prefixes: France doesn’t use area codes. French phone prefixes vary by region or type of call. For instance, all Paris landline numbers start with 01, and all landlines in Provence and the Riviera begin with 04.
Any number beginning with 06 or 07 is a mobile phone, and costs more to dial.
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: France’s toll-free numbers start with 0800 and are called numéro vert (green number); they work only from French phones. Any 08 number without a 00 directly following is a toll call (generally €0.10-0.50/minute; cost announced in French; you can hang up before being billed). International rates apply to US toll-free numbers dialed from France—they’re not free.
More Phoning Help: See www.howtocallabroad.com.
| European Country Codes | |
| Austria | 43 |
| Belgium | 32 |
| Bosnia-Herzegovina | 387 |
| Croatia | 385 |
| Czech Republic | 420 |
| Denmark | 45 |
| Estonia | 372 |
| Finland | 358 |
| France | 33 |
| Germany | 49 |
| Gibraltar | 350 |
| Great Britain | 44 |
| Greece | 30 |
| Hungary | 36 |
| Ireland & N. Ireland | 353 / 44 |
| Italy | 39 |
| Latvia | 371 |
| Montenegro | 382 |
| Morocco | 212 |
| Netherlands | 31 |
| Norway | 47 |
| Poland | 48 |
| Portugal | 351 |
| Russia | 7 |
| Slovakia | 421 |
| Slovenia | 386 |
| Spain | 34 |
| Sweden | 46 |
| Switzerland | 41 |
| Turkey | 90 |
To text for free over Wi-Fi, try apps like Google+ Hangouts, WhatsApp, Viber, Facebook Messenger, and iMessage. Make sure you’re on Wi-Fi to avoid data charges.
This option works well for those who want to make a lot of voice calls at cheap local rates, and those who need faster connection speeds than their US carrier provides. Either buy a basic cell phone in Europe (as little as $40 from mobile-phone shops anywhere), or bring an “unlocked” US phone (check with your carrier about unlocking it). With an unlocked phone, you can replace the original SIM card (the microchip that stores info about the phone) with one that will work with a European provider.
In Europe, buy a European SIM card. Inserted into your phone, this card gives you a European phone number—and European rates. SIM cards are sold at mobile-phone shops, department-store electronics counters, newsstands, and vending machines. Costing about $5-10, they usually include about that much prepaid calling credit, with no contract and no commitment. A SIM card that also includes data costs (including roaming) will cost $20-40 more for one month of data within the country you bought it. This can be faster than data roaming through your home provider. To get the best rates, buy a new SIM card whenever you arrive in a new country.
I like to buy SIM cards at a mobile-phone shop where there’s a clerk to help explain the options and brands. Certain brands—including Lebara and Lycamobile, both of which operate in multiple European countries—are reliable and economical. Ask the clerk to help you insert your SIM card, set it up, and show you how to use it. In some countries you’ll be required to register the SIM card with your passport as an antiterrorism measure (which may mean you can’t use the phone for the first hour or two).
Find out how to check your credit balance. When you run out of credit, you can top it up at newsstands, tobacco shops, mobile-phone stores, or many other businesses (look for your SIM card’s logo in the window), or online.
It’s possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can check email or browse websites using public computers and Internet cafés, and make calls from your hotel room.
Phones in your hotel room generally charge a fee for placing local and “toll-free” calls, as well as long-distance or international calls—ask for the rates before you dial. Since you’re never charged for receiving calls, it’s better to have someone from the US call you in your room.
If these fees are low, hotel phones can be used inexpensively for calls made with cheap international phone cards (carte international). These cards are not widely used in France, but they can be found at some newsstands, street kiosks, tobacco shops, and train stations. You’ll either get a prepaid card with a toll-free number and a scratch-to-reveal PIN code, or a code printed on a receipt.
Public computers are not always easy to find. Some hotels have one in their lobby for guests to use; otherwise you might find one at an Internet café or public library (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). If typing on a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. To type an @ symbol on French keyboards, press the “Alt Gr” and “à/0” key. If you can’t locate a special character, simply copy it from a Web page and paste it into your email message.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.” The French postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com). French post offices are referred to as La Poste or sometimes the old-fashioned PTT, for “Post, Telegraph, and Telephone.” Hours vary, though most are open weekdays 8:00-19:00 and Saturday morning 8:00-12:00. Stamps and phone cards are also sold at tabacs. It costs about €1 to mail a postcard to the US. One convenient, if expensive, way to send packages home is to use the post office’s Colissimo XL postage-paid mailing box. It costs €50-90 to ship boxes weighing 5-7 kilos (about 11-15 pounds).
If you’re debating between using public transportation, renting a car, or flying between destinations in Europe, consider these factors: Cars are best for three or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who don’t want to drive. Intra-European flights are an increasingly inexpensive option. While a car gives you more freedom, trains and buses zip you effortlessly and scenically from city to city, usually dropping you in the center, often near a TI. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, including trains, flying, renting a car, and driving, see www.ricksteves.com/transportation.
In cities, arriving by train in the middle of town makes hotel-hunting and sightseeing easy. But in France, many destinations are small, remote places far from a station, such as Honfleur, Mont St-Michel, D-Day beaches, Loire Valley châteaux, Dordogne caves, and villages in Provence and Burgundy. In such places, taking trains and buses can require great patience, planning, and time. If you’ll be relying on public transportation, focus on fewer destinations, or hire one of the excellent minivan tour guides I recommend.
I’ve included two sample itineraries—by car and by public transportation—to help you explore France smoothly; you’ll find these in the Introduction.
France’s SNCF rail system (short for Société Nationale Chemins de Fer) sets the pace in Europe. Its super TGV (tay zhay vay; Train à Grande Vitesse) system has inspired bullet trains throughout the world. The TGV, which requires a reservation, runs at 170-220 mph. Its rails are fused into one long, continuous track for a faster and smoother ride. The TGV has changed commuting patterns throughout France by putting most of the country within day-trip distance of Paris.
Any staffed train station has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination. For more on train travel, see www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Schedules change by season, weekday, and weekend. Verify train times shown in this book—online, check www.bahn.com (Germany’s excellent all-Europe schedule site), or check locally at train stations. The French rail website is www.sncf.com; for online sales, go to http://en.voyages-sncf.com. If you’ll be traveling on one or two long-distance trains without a rail pass, it’s worth looking online, as advance-purchase discounts can be a great deal.
Bigger stations may have helpful information agents roaming the station (usually in bright red or blue vests) and at Accueil offices or booths. Make use of their help; don’t stand in a ticket line if all you need is a train schedule.
Long-distance travelers may save money with a France Rail Pass, sold only outside Europe (through travel agents or Rick Steves’ Europe). For roughly the cost of a full-fare Paris-Avignon-Paris ticket, the France Rail Pass offers three days of travel (within a month) anywhere in France. You can add up to six more days, each for the cost of a two-hour ride. You’ll save money with the second-class version, but first class gives you more options when reserving popular TGV routes. A first-class pass grants you access to lounges in railway stations at Paris Est, Paris Nord, Paris Montparnasse, Paris Gare de Lyon, Strasbourg, Bordeaux, Marseille, Nantes, Rennes, Lille Flandres, Lille Europe, and Lyon Part-Dieu. The France Rail Pass plus regular seat reservation fee (up to €35) also covers you beyond national borders on direct TGV or Thalys fast trains to Amsterdam, Brussels, Cologne, Barcelona, Madrid (from Marseille), Turin, Milan, and Basel.
Each day of use allows you to take as many trips as you want on one calendar day (you could go from Paris to Beaune in Burgundy, enjoy wine tasting, then continue to Avignon, stay a few hours, and end in Nice—though I wouldn’t recommend it). Buy second-class tickets in France for shorter trips, and save your valuable pass days for longer trips. Note that if you’re connecting the French Alps with Alsace, you might travel through Switzerland, a route that requires France Rail Pass holders to buy a ticket for that segment (about €50).
A Global Pass can work well throughout most of Europe, but it’s a bad value for travel exclusively in France. A cheaper version, the Select Pass, allows you to tailor a pass to your trip, provided you’re traveling in two to four adjacent countries directly connected by rail or ferry. For instance, with a three-country pass allowing 10 days of train travel within a two-month period (about $630 for a single adult in 2016), you could choose France-Switzerland-Italy or Germany-France-Spain. The saver pass version of any pass gives two or more people traveling together a 15 percent discount.
Note that France’s TGV trains require advance seat reservations, which are limited for pass holders. Reserving these fast trains at least several weeks in advance is recommended (for strategies, see “Reservations,” later).
Online: While there’s no deadline to buy any train ticket, the fast, reserved TGV trains get booked up. Buy well ahead for any TGV you cannot afford to miss. Tickets go on sale 90 to 120 days in advance, with a wide range of prices on any one route. The cheapest tickets sell out early and reservations for rail-pass holders also go particularly fast.
To buy the cheapest advance-discount tickets (up to 60 percent less than full fare), visit http://en.voyages-sncf.com, three to four months ahead of your travel date. (A pop-up window may ask you to choose between being sent to the Rail Europe website or staying on the SNCF page—click “Stay.”) Next, choose “Train,” then “TGV.” Under “Book your train tickets,” pick your travel dates, and choose “France” as your ticket collection country. The cheapest (nonrefundable) tickets are called “Prems”; be sure it also says “TGV” (avoid iDTGV trains—they’re very cheap, but this SNCF subsidiary doesn’t accept PayPal). Choose the eticket delivery option (which allows you to print at home), and pay with your PayPal account to avoid credit-card approval issues. These low-rate tickets may not be available from Rail Europe or other US agents.
After the “Prems” rates are sold out, you can buy other fare types on the French site with a US credit card if it has been set up for the “Verified by Visa,” “MasterCard SecureCode,” or “American Express SafeKey” program. For a credit-card purchase, choose “USA” as your ticket collection country.
Otherwise, US customers can order through a US agency, such as at www.ricksteves.com/rail, which offers both etickets and home delivery, but may not have access to all the cheapest rates; or Capitaine Train (www.captaintrain.com), which sells the “Prems” fare and iDTGV tickets.
Travelers with smartphones have the option of saving tickets and reservations directly to their phones (choose “m-ticket”). For more details, see http://en.voyages-sncf.com/en/mobile.
In France: You can buy train tickets in person at SNCF Boutiques or at any train station, either from a staffed ticket window or from a machine. You can buy tickets on the train for a €4-10 surcharge depending on the length of your trip, but you must find the conductor immediately upon boarding; otherwise it’s a €35 minimum charge.
The ticket machines available at most stations are great time savers when other lines are long. But the machines probably won’t accept your American credit card even if it has a chip, so be prepared with euro coins and bills. Some machines have English instructions, but for those that don’t, here are the prompts. (Turn the dial or move the cursor to your choice, and press “Validez” to agree to each step.)
1. Quelle est votre destination? (What’s your destination?)
2. Billet Plein Tarif (Full-fare ticket—yes for most.)
3. 1ère ou 2ème (First or second class; normally second is fine.)
4. Aller simple ou aller-retour? (One-way or round-trip?)
5. Prix en Euro (The price should be shown if you get this far.)
Reservations are required for any TGV train, couchettes (sleeping berths) on night trains, and some other trains where indicated in timetables. You can reserve any train at any station anytime before your departure or through SNCF Boutiques. If you’re buying a point-to-point ticket for a TGV train, you’ll reserve your seat when you purchase your ticket.
Popular TGV routes usually fill up quickly, making it a challenge to get reservations (particularly for rail-pass holders, who are allocated a very limited number of seats). It’s wise to book well ahead for any TGV, especially on the busy Paris-Avignon-Nice line. If the TGV trains you want are fully booked, ask about TER trains serving the same destination, as these don’t require reservations.
If you’re using a rail pass, reservations cost €9-18 to for domestic travel, depending on the kind of train they’re for and where you buy them. Seat reservations on Thalys, Artesia, and international TGV trains range from €10 to €35, but the price also depends on class of service (they can cost up to €50 in first class on TGV trains to Swiss destinations). Eurostar trains to London don’t accept rail passes but do offer pass holders some ticket discounts.
Rail-pass holders can book TGV reservations directly at French stations up to the departure; reservations, if still available, can also be booked anytime as etickets at www.raileurope.com (if lower-priced pass-holder reservations are sold out, try for the “Easy Access” rate). Given the possible difficulty of getting TGV reservations with a rail pass, make those reservations online before you leave home.
If you’re taking one of the rare overnight trains in France and need a couchette, it can be booked in advance through a US agent (such as www.raileurope.com).
Reservations are generally unnecessary for non-TGV trains (verify ahead, as some Intercité trains require reservations, like the Nice-Bordeaux train), but they are advisable during busy times (for example, Friday and Sunday afternoons, Saturday mornings, weekday rush hours, and holiday weekends; see “Holidays and Festivals” on here).
Baggage check (Consigne or Espaces Bagages) is available only at a handful of the biggest train stations (about €5-10/bag per day depending on size), and is noted where available (which can depend on current security concerns, so be prepared to keep your bag). For security reasons, all luggage should carry a tag with the traveler’s first and last name and current address (though it’s not enforced). This applies to hand luggage as well as bigger bags that are stowed. Free tags are available at train stations in France.
Other baggage-check options in cities are becoming more common, often near train stations (also noted in this book). Here’s a tip: Major museums and monuments usually have free baggage check for visitors. Even if the sight is not particularly interesting to you, the entry fee may be worth it if you need to stow your bags for a few hours.
• Arrive at the station with plenty of time before your departure to find your platform (platform numbers are posted about 15 minutes prior to departure), confirm connections, and so on. Large stations have separate information (accueil) windows; at small stations the ticket office gives information.
• Small stations are minimally staffed; if there is no agent at the station, go directly to the tracks and look for the overhead sign that confirms your train stops at that track.
• Larger stations have platforms with monitors showing TGV layouts (numbered forward or backward) so you can figure out where your car (voiture) will stop on the long platform and where to board each car.
• You’re required to activate (composter, kohm-poh-stay) all train tickets and reservations (when printed on official ticket stock) before boarding any SNCF train. Look for a yellow machine near the platform or waiting area to stamp your ticket or reservation. Reserved tickets that are printed at home on plain paper don’t need validation (and won’t fit in the machine). You also don’t need to activate etickets on your phone.
• If you have a rail pass, activate it at a ticket window before using it the first time (don’t stamp it in the machine). If you’re traveling with a pass and have a reservation for a certain trip, you must activate the reservation by stamping it.
• If you have a rail flexipass, write the date on your pass each day you travel (before or immediately after boarding your first train).
• Before getting on a train, confirm that it’s going where you think it is. For example, if you want to go to Bayeux, ask the conductor or any local passenger, “A Bayeux?” (ah bah-yuh; meaning, “To Bayeux?”).
• Some longer trains split off cars en route. Make sure your train car is continuing to your destination by asking, for example, “Cette voiture va à Avignon?” (seht vwah-toor vah ah ah-veen-yohn; meaning, “This car goes to Avignon?”).
• If a non-TGV train seat is reserved, it’ll likely be labeled réservé, with the cities to and from which it is reserved.
• If you don’t understand an announcement, ask your neighbor to explain: “Pardon madame/monsieur, qu’est-ce qui se passe?” (kehs kee suh pahs; meaning, “Excuse me, what’s going on?”).
• Verify with the conductor all of the transfers you must make: “Correspondance à?”; meaning, “Transfer to where?”
• To guard against theft, keep your bags in sight (directly overhead is ideal but not always possible—the early boarder gets the best storage space). If you must store them in the lower racks by the doors (available in most cars), pay attention at stops. Your bags are most vulnerable to theft before the train takes off and whenever it stops.
• Note your arrival time, so you’ll be ready to get off.
• Use the train’s free WCs before you get off (but not while the train is stopped in a station).
Regional buses work well for many destinations not served by trains. Buses are almost always comfortable and air-conditioned.
A few bus lines are run by the SNCF rail system and are covered by your rail pass (show rail pass at station to get free bus ticket), but most bus lines are not covered. Bus stations (gare routière) are usually located next to train stations. Train stations usually have bus information where train-to-bus connections are important—and vice versa for bus companies.
• Read the train tips described earlier, and use those that apply (check schedules in advance, arrive at the station early, confirm the destination before you board, find out if you need to transfer, etc.).
• The bus company websites I’ve listed in this book are usually in French only. Here are some key phrases you’ll see: horaires (schedules), en semaine (Monday through Saturday), dimanche (Sunday), jours fériés (holidays), année (bus runs all year on the days listed), vac (runs only during summer vacations), scol/scolaire (runs only when school is in session), ligne (route or bus line), and réseau (network—usually all routes).
• Use TIs to help plan your trip and verify times (TIs have regional bus schedules).
• Be aware that service is sparse or nonexistent on Sunday. Wednesday bus schedules often are different during the school year, because school is out this day (and regional buses generally operate school service).
• Confirm a bus stop’s location in advance (rural stops are often not signed) and be at bus stops at least five minutes early.
Worthwhile day tours are generally available in regions where bus and train service is sparse. For the D-Day beaches, Loire Valley châteaux, Dordogne Valley villages and caves, Cathar castles near Carcassonne, Provence’s villages and vineyards, the Route du Vin (Wine Road) in Alsace, Brittany sights (including Mont St-Michel), and wine tasting in Burgundy, I list reliable companies that provide this helpful service at fair rates. Some of these minivan excursions just offer transportation between the sights; others add a running commentary and information on regional history.
You’ll find Uber only in bigger cities in France. It works like it does in the US. In general, Uber works better than taxis. Drivers are nicer and more flexible, it’s cheaper, and you can generally get a car within five minutes. The app from the US works here if you have a US Uber account. They can find you on a map and pick you up anywhere so you don’t have to track down a taxi stand, and you can text them if you can’t find them.
Rental companies require you to be at least 21 years old and to have held your license for one year. Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young-driver surcharge, and some rental companies do not rent to anyone 75 or older. If you’re considered too young or old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less-stringent age restrictions.
Research car rentals before you go. It’s cheaper to arrange car rentals from the US. Consider several companies to compare rates. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt, and the French agency, ADA (www.ada.fr). It can be cheaper to use a consolidator, such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com—or the often cheaper www.autoeurope.eu) or Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com), which compares rates at several companies to get you the best deal—but because you’re working with a middleman, it’s especially important to ask in advance about add-on fees and restrictions.
Always read the fine print carefully for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.” You may need to query rental agents pointedly to find out your actual cost.
For the best deal, rent by the week with unlimited mileage. I normally rent the smallest, least-expensive model with a stick shift (generally cheaper than an automatic). This size works well for two people; I’d go up a size for more than two (e.g. equivalent to a Renault Mégane in size). Almost all rentals are manual by default, so if you need an automatic, request one in advance and be warned that these cars are usually larger models. Roads and parking spaces are narrow in France, so you’ll do yourself a favor by renting the smallest car that meets your needs.
Figure on paying roughly $260 for a midsize, one-week rental during busy seasons. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. For trips of three weeks or more, leasing can save you money on insurance and taxes.
Picking Up Your Car: Big companies have offices in most cities (train stations, airports, and downtown), but small local rental companies can be cheaper.
Compare pick-up costs (downtown can be less expensive than the airport or train station) and explore drop-off options. Verify the hours of the location you choose: Most close on Sunday and at lunch (about 12:00-13:30). At major locations like rail stations, you can usually drop off a car after-hours (put keys in lockbox).
When selecting a location, don’t trust the agency’s description of “downtown” or “city center.” In some cases, a “downtown” branch can be on the outskirts of the city—a long, costly taxi ride from the center. Before choosing, plug the addresses into a mapping website. You may find that the “train station” location is handier. But returning a car at a big-city train station or downtown agency can be tricky; get precise details on the car drop-off location and hours, and allow ample time to find it.
If you want a car for only a day or two (e.g., for the Côtes du Rhône wine route, Luberon villages, D-Day beaches, or Loire Valley châteaux), you’ll likely find it easy to rent on the spot just about anywhere in France. In many cases, this is a worthwhile splurge. All you need is your American driver’s license and a major credit card (figure €60-90/day; some include unlimited mileage, others give you 100 kilometers—about 60 miles—for free).
When you pick up the rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe are very strict when it comes to charging for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Before driving off, find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
When you rent a car, you are liable for a very high deductible, sometimes equal to the entire value of the car. Limit your financial risk with one of these options: Buy Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company, get coverage through your credit card (free, if your card automatically includes zero-deductible coverage), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW includes a very high deductible (typically $1,000-1,500), costs $10-30 a day (figure roughly 30 percent extra), and reduces your liability, but does not eliminate it. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you’ll technically have to decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card (which can be up to the full value of the car). In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges with your credit-card company. Before you decide on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save lots of money on tax and insurance. Leasing provides you a brand-new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. Pick-up and drop-off locations are limited to a few major cities (listed on websites). You can lease for as little as 21 days to as long as five and a half months; Idea Merge offers two-week leases. Car leases must be arranged from the US; some companies allow drop off in different countries.
These reliable companies offer 21-day lease packages:
Auto France (Peugeot cars only, US tel. 800-572-9655, www.autofrance.net)
Europe by Car (Citroën and Renault cars, US tel. 800-223-1516, www.ebctravel.com)
Idea Merge (ask about two-week leases; Volkswagen, Citroën, Renault, and Peugeot, US tel. 503-715-5810, www.ideamerge.com)
Kemwel (Peugeot cars only, US tel. 877-820-0668, www.kemwel.com)
Even given the extra fuel costs, renting your own rolling hotel can be a great way to save money, especially if you’re sticking mainly to rural areas. Keep in mind that RVs in France are much smaller than those you see at home. Companies to consider:
Van It (rents pop-top VW Eurovan campers that are easy to maneuver on small roads, mobile 06 70 43 11 86, www.van-it.com)
Idea Merge (best resource for small RV rental, see listing above)
Origin (current-model Volkswagen vans fully equipped for 2-3 people, rates less than RVs, mobile 06 80 01 72 77, www.origin-campervans.com)
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Device: The mapping app on your mobile phone works fine for navigation in Europe, but for real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic updates, you’ll generally need access to a cellular network. A helpful exception is Google Maps, which provides turn-by-turn directions and recalibrates even when it’s offline.
To use Google Maps offline, you must have a Google account and download your map while you have a data connection. Later—even when offline—you can call up that map, enter your destination, and get directions. View maps in standard view (not satellite view) to limit data demands.
GPS Devices: If you prefer the convenience of a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car ($10-30/day). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of a smartphone mapping app. Note that the unit may only come loaded with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Also make sure your device’s language is set to English before you drive off.
A less expensive option is to bring a GPS device from home. Be aware that you’ll need to buy and download European maps before your trip.
Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always make it a point to have a paper map. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at European gas stations, bookshops, newsstands, and tourist shops.
Michelin maps are available throughout France at bookstores, newsstands, and gas stations (about €6 each, cheaper than in the US). The Michelin #721 France map (1:1,000,000 scale) covers this book’s destinations with good detail for drivers. Drivers should also consider the soft-cover Michelin France atlas (the entire country at 1:200,000, well-organized in a €20 book with an index and maps of major cities). Spend a few minutes learning the Michelin key to get the most sightseeing value out of these maps.
It’s a pleasure to explore France by car, but you need to know the rules.
Road Rules: Seat belts are mandatory for all, and children under age 10 must be in the back seat. In city and town centers, traffic merging from the right (even from tiny side streets) may have the right-of-way (priorité à droite). So even when you’re driving on a major road, pay attention to cars merging from the right. In contrast, cars entering the many suburban roundabouts must yield (cédez le passage). You can’t turn right on a red light, U-turns are illegal, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right.
Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times (in France, they must be used in any case of poor visibility), and nearly all forbid talking on a mobile phone without a hands-free headset. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Speed Limits: Because speed limits are by road type, they typically aren’t posted, so it’s best to memorize them:
• Two-lane D and N routes outside cities and towns: 90 km/hour
• Two-lane roads in villages: 50 km/hour (unless posted at 30 km/hour)
• Divided highways outside cities and towns: 110 km/hour
• Autoroutes (toll roads): 130 km/hour (unless otherwise posted)
If it’s raining, subtract 10 km/hour on D and N routes and 20 km/hour on divided highways and autoroutes. Speed-limit signs are a red circle around a number; when you see that same number again in gray with a broken line diagonally across it, this means that limit no longer applies. Speed limits drop to 30-50 km/hour in villages (always posted) and must be respected.
Road speeds are monitored regularly with cameras—a mere two kilometers over the limit yields a pricey ticket (a minimum of about €68). The good news is that signs warn drivers a few hundred yards before the camera and show the proper speed (see image above). Look for a sign with a radar graphic that says Pour votre sécurité, contrôles automatiques. The French use these cameras not to make money but to slow down traffic—and it works.
Don’t Drink and Drive: The French are serious about curbing drunk driving. All motorists, including those in rental cars, are required to have a self-test Breathalyzer on hand so they can tell if they’re over the legal blood-alcohol limit (0.05mg/ml—which is lower than in the US—drinker beware). When you pick up your rental car, ask if it has a kit.
Tire Pressure: In Europe, tire pressure is measured in bars of pressure. To convert to PSI (pounds per square inch) the formula is: bar × 14.5 = PSI (so 2 bars would be 2 × 14.5, or 29 PSI). To convert to bar pressures from PSI, the formula is: PSI × 0.07 = bar (so 30 PSI × 0.07 would be 2.1 bar). Your car’s recommended tire pressure is usually found on a sticker mounted on the driver-side doorframe.
Pulling to the Side of the Road: All rental cars are equipped with a yellow safety vest and triangle. You must wear the vest and display the triangle whenever you pull over on the side of the road (say, to fix a flat tire). If you don’t, you could be fined.
Fuel: Gas (essence) is expensive—about $6 per gallon. Diesel (gazole) costs less—about $5 per gallon. Know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Many Americans get marooned by filling with unleaded in a diesel car. Most rentals are diesel; if yours is one of them, use the yellow pump. Fuel is most expensive on autoroutes and cheapest at big supermarkets. Your US credit and debit cards without a chip won’t work at self-serve pumps—so you’ll need to find gas stations with attendants, or get a chip-and-PIN card before your trip (see here).
Plan ahead for Sundays, as most gas stations in town are closed. I fill my tank every Saturday. If stuck on a Sunday, use an autoroute, where the gas stations are always staffed.
Autoroutes and Tolls: Autoroute tolls are pricey, but the alternative to these super-“feeways” usually means being marooned in countryside traffic—especially near the Riviera. Autoroutes save enough time, gas, and nausea to justify the cost. Mix high-speed “autorouting” with scenic country-road rambling.
You’ll usually take a ticket when entering an autoroute and pay when you leave. Figure roughly €1 in tolls for every 15 kilometers driven on the autoroute (or about €15 for two hours). Cash (coins or bills under €50) is your best payment option as most US credit cards won’t work (for more on paying at tollbooths, see the sidebar on here).
Autoroute gas stations are open on Sundays and usually come with well-stocked minimarts, clean restrooms, sandwiches, maps, local products, cheap vending-machine coffee, and Wi-Fi. Many have small cafés or more elaborate cafeterias with reasonable prices. For more information, see www.autoroutes.fr.
Highways: Roads are classified into departmental (D), national (N), and autoroutes (A). D routes (usually yellow lines on maps) are often slower but the most scenic. N routes and important D routes (red lines) are the fastest after autoroutes (orange lines on maps). Green road signs are for national routes; blue are for autoroutes. Some roads in France have had route-number changes (mostly N roads converting to D roads). If you’re using an older map, the actual route name may differ from what’s on your map. Navigate by destination rather than road name...or buy a new map. There are plenty of good facilities, gas stations (most closed Sun), and rest stops along most French roads.
Parking: Finding a parking place can be a headache in larger cities. Ask your hotelier for ideas, and pay to park at well-patrolled lots (blue P signs direct you to parking lots in French cities). Parking garages require that you take a ticket with you and pay at a machine (called a caisse) on your way back to the car. US credit cards won’t work in these machines, but euro coins will (some accept bills too). If you don’t have enough coins to pay the fee, find the garage’s accueil office, where the attendant can help or direct you to a nearby shop where you can change bills into coins. Overnight parking in garages (usually 19:00-8:00) is generally reasonable (priciest in cities like Paris, Nice, Avignon, and Antibes).
Curbside metered parking also works (usually free 12:00-14:00 & 19:00-9:00, and all day and night in Aug). Look for a small machine selling time (called an horodateur, usually one per block), plug in a few coins (€1.50-2 buys about an hour, varies by city), push the button, get a receipt showing the amount of time you have, and display it inside your windshield. (Avoid spaces outlined in blue, as they require a special permit.) For cheap overnight parking until the next afternoon, buy three hours’ worth of time after 19:00. This gets you until noon the next day, after which two more hours are usually free (12:00-14:00), so you’re good until 14:00.
Theft: Theft is a problem, particularly in southern France. Thieves easily recognize rental cars and assume they are filled with a tourist’s gear. Try to make your car look locally owned by hiding the “tourist-owned” rental-company decals and putting a French newspaper in your back window. Be sure all of your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk—or, even better, with you or in your room. And don’t assume that just because you’re parked on a main street that you’ll be fine. Thieves work fast.
• France is riddled with roundabouts—navigating them is an art. The key is to know your direction and be ready for your turnoff. If you miss it, take another lap (or two). See the diagram on here.
• At intersections and roundabouts, French road signs use the name of an upcoming destination for directions—the highway number is usually missing. That upcoming destination could be a major city, or it could be the next minor town up the road. Check your map ahead of time and get familiar with the names of towns and cities along your route—and even major cities on the same road beyond your destination.
• When navigating into cities, approach intersections cautiously, stow the map, and follow the signs to Centre-Ville (city center). From there, head to the TI (Office de Tourisme) or your hotel.
• When leaving or just passing through cities, follow the signs for Toutes Directions or Autres Directions (meaning “anywhere else”) until you see a sign for your specific destination. Look also for Suivre signs telling you to follow (suivre) signs for the (usually more important) destination listed to continue toward your destination.
For American drivers, getting through the toll payment stations on France’s autoroutes is mostly about knowing which lanes to avoid—and having cash on hand. Skip lanes marked with a lowercase “t”—they’re reserved for cars using the automatic Télépéage payment system. A pictograph of a credit card (usually a blue sign) means credit or debit cards only (your US card very likely won’t work, so avoid this line). Look instead for green arrows above the tollbooth and/or icons showing bills or coins, which indicate booths accepting cash (booths often allow more than one payment method). Slow down as you approach tollbooths to study your options, and pull off to the side if you aren’t positive of the tollbooth to choose.
Exits are entirely automated (if you have a problem at the tollbooth, press the red button for help). Have smaller bills ready (payment machines won’t accept €50 bills). Shorter autoroute sections have periodic tollbooths, where you can pay by dropping coins into a basket (change is given for bills, but keep a good supply of coins handy to avoid waiting for an attendant).
To estimate how much cash to have on hand for tolls, use the planning tool at ViaMichelin.com.
• Driving on any roads but autoroutes will take longer than you think, so allow plenty of time for slower traffic (tractors, trucks, and hard-to-decipher signs all deserve blame). First-timers should estimate how long they think a drive will take...then double it. I pretend that kilometers are miles (for distances) and base my time estimates accordingly.
• While locals are eating lunch (12:00-14:00), many sights (and gas stations) are closed, so you can make great time driving—but keep it slow when passing through villages.
• Be very careful when driving on smaller roads—many are narrow and flanked by little ditches that lure inattentive drivers. I’ve met several readers who “ditched” their cars (and had to be pulled out by local farmers).
• On autoroutes, keep to the right lanes to let fast drivers by, and be careful when merging into a left lane, as cars can be coming at high speeds.
• Motorcycles will scream between cars in traffic. Be ready—they expect you to make space so that they can pass.
• Keep a stash of coins handy for parking and small autoroute tolls.
You’ll find areas in France where public transportation is limited and bicycle touring might be a good idea. For many, biking is a romantic notion, and the novelty wears off after the first hill or headwind. Realistically evaluate your physical condition, be clear on the limitations bikes present, and consider an electric bike. Start with an easy pedal, then decide how ambitious you feel. Most find that one hour on a narrow, hard seat is enough. I’ve listed bike-rental shops where appropriate (TIs can also guide you), and I’ve suggested a few of my favorite rides. For a good touring bike, figure about €14 for a half-day and €20 for a full day. You’ll pay more for better equipment; generally the best is available through bike shops, not at train stations or other outlets. French cyclists often do not wear helmets, though most rental outfits have them (for a small fee).
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is www.kayak.com. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try www.skyscanner.com.
Flying to Europe: Start looking for international flights at least four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Off-season tickets can usually be purchased a month or so in advance. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see our hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at www.ricksteves.com/hub-airports.
Flying Within Europe: If you’re visiting one or more French cities on a longer European trip—or linking up far-flung French cities (such as Paris and Nice)—a flight can save both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
Well-known cheapo airlines include easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Also check Air France for specials. But be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying with a discount airline: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, pricey and time-consuming treks to secondary airports, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. If you’re traveling with lots of luggage, a cheap flight can quickly become a bad deal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print before you book. These days you can also fly within Europe on major airlines affordably—and without all the aggressive restrictions—for around $100 a flight.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport. It’s also important to charge your electronic devices before you board because security checks may require you to turn them on (see www.tsa.gov for latest rules).
Begin your trip at www.ricksteves.com: My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, photos, and radio interviews organized by country; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; monthly travel news dispatches; a collection of over 30 hours of practical travel talks; my travel blog; my latest guidebook updates (www.ricksteves.com/update); and my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook and Twitter.
Our Travel Forum is an immense yet well-groomed collection of message boards, where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (www.ricksteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers travel bags and accessories that I’ve designed specifically to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular bags (rolling carry-on and backpack versions, which I helped design...and live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, other accessories, and a wide selection of guidebooks and planning maps.
Choosing the right rail pass for your trip—amid hundreds of options—can drive you nutty. Our website will help you find the perfect fit for your itinerary and your budget: We offer easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets.
Tours: Want to travel with greater efficiency and less stress? We organize tours with more than three dozen itineraries and more than 900 departures reaching the best destinations in this book...and beyond. We offer an 11-day Paris and the Heart of France tour (focusing on the best of the north), a 13-day Loire to the South of France tour, a 14-day Best of Eastern France tour, a 7-day in-depth Paris city tour, and a 13-day My Way France tour. You’ll enjoy great guides, a fun bunch of travel partners (with small groups of around 24 to 28 travelers), and plenty of room to spread out in a big, comfy bus when touring between towns. You’ll find European adventures to fit every vacation length. For all the details, and to get our Tour Catalog, visit www.ricksteves.com or call us at 425/608-4217.
Books: Rick Steves France 2017 is one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country guidebooks; city guidebooks (Paris, Rome, Florence, London, etc.); Snapshot guidebooks (excerpted chapters from my country guides); Pocket guidebooks (full-color little books on big cities, including Paris); “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed country guidebooks in a full-color, easy-to-scan format); and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. Most of my titles are available as ebooks.
My phrase books—for French, Italian, German, Spanish, and Portuguese—are practical and budget-oriented. My other books include Europe 101 (a crash course on art and history designed for travelers); Mediterranean Cruise Ports and Northern European Cruise Ports (how to make the most of your time in port); and Travel as a Political Act (a travelogue sprinkled with tips for bringing home a global perspective). A more complete list of my titles appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes. To watch full episodes online for free, see www.ricksteves.com/tv.
Travel Talks on Video: You can raise your travel I.Q. with video versions of our popular classes (including my talks on travel skills, packing smart, cruising, tech for travelers, European art for travelers, travel as a political act, and individual talks covering most European countries, including France). See www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
Audio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. A complete archive of 10 years of programs (over 400 in all) is available at www.ricksteves.com/radio. Most of this audio content is available for free through my Rick Steves Audio Europe app (see here).