Eastern Uganda
Eastern Uganda, where the mighty Nile begins its epic journey north, is becoming a must on any East African sojourn thanks to an intoxicating blend of adrenaline adventures and superb scenery. White-water rafting on the Nile River undoubtedly leads the way as the biggest draw card, but trekking at Mt Elgon, and stunning Sipi Falls are also beautiful spots to soak up the scenery. If you’re the adventurous sort, consider the overland assault through the heartland of the Karamojong, a tough tribe of cattle herders, where the seldom-visited route leads to Kidepo Valley National Park.
Jinja
Pop 87,400
Famous as the historic source of the Nile River, Jinja has emerged as the adrenaline capital of East Africa. Here you can get your fix of white-water rafting, kayaking, quad biking, mountain biking, horseback riding and bungee jumping. The town itself is a buzzing little place with some wonderful, crumbling colonial architecture.
Coming from Kampala, the Owen Falls Dam forms a spectacular gateway to the town; but don’t take pictures – people have been arrested for doing so, even though there are no signs informing people of this law.
Jinja
1Sights
4Sleeping
Transport
1Sights
Source of the Nile RiverRIVER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; admission per person/car/motorcycle USh10,000/2000/500; 
hadmission charged 7am-7pm, open 24hr)
The birthplace of the mighty Nile River (or one of them anyway…), here the water spills out of Lake Victoria on its journey to the Mediterranean flowing fast from the get-go. It’s estimated no more than 5% of water here will end up in Egypt. There’s a landmark identifying the source and a few restaurants and bars, which can make for a nice place for a sunset beer. Exploring the source by boat (per person USh20,000) is another popular option.
Despite being touted as one of Jinja’s premier drawcards, on the Jinja side of the river there really isn’t much to see. It’s more pleasant across the river on the western bank with the Source of the Nile Gardens ( GOOGLE MAP ; admission USh10,000) and Speke Monument – a pillar commemorating where the British explorer first laid claim to the historic source of the Nile in 1858. In recent times the source has been traced anywhere from Rwanda to Burundi.
GANDHI IN UGANDA?
A surprising find at the source of the Nile is a shrine to Mahatma Gandhi. As per his wishes, on his death in 1948 his ashes were divided up to be scattered in several of the world’s great rivers, including the Nile in Uganda. This bronze bust, donated by the Indian government, commemorates the act.
2Activities
Those planning to do a few activities should look into the combos offered by the main adventure operators as they offer decent discounts.
White-Water Rafting
The source of the Nile is one of the most spectacular white-water rafting destinations in the world and for many visitors to Uganda a rafting trip is the highlight of their visit. Here you can expect long, rollicking strings of Grade IV and V rapids, with plenty of thrills and spills. Despite the intensity of some of the rapids, most people who venture here are first-time rafters; it’s the perfect opportunity to get out of your comfort zone and try something different.
The three most reputable rafting companies are Nile River Explorers, Nalubale Rafting and Adrift, all equal in terms of professionalism and pricing, and each places an outstanding emphasis on safety (all rafting trips are accompanied by a fleet of rescue kayaks and a safety boat you can retreat to if you find things a bit too hairy for your liking).
They will also shuttle you out from Kampala for free, picking up punters from popular hostels and hotels, and bring you back again in the evening if you just want to make it a day trip. If you want to stick around, they’ll give you a free night’s accommodation in a dormitory. All also offer pick-ups from hotels in Jinja.
Besides the standard big water runs, there are also less extreme options for those who don’t want to be flung into the raging water. Family float trips are offered, which bypass the big waves and are guaranteed to garner squeals of delight from young kids. A full-day family float with Nile River Explorers and Nalubale Rafting costs US$30 per person.
All the companies take on the Big Four – monster Grade V rapids, including Itanda (The Bad Place) – but there is always a safety boat on hand if you decide the rapids are just too big for you. All of them also include a host of incentives to lure you over, including meals and beers.
Nile River ExplorersRAFTING
(NRE;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%0772-422373; www.raftafrica.com; half /full /2 day trips US$115/125/250)
Long-established company set up by a South African. Accommodation is Explorers Backpackers in town or Explorers River Camp in Bujagali.
AdriftRAFTING
(%0312-237438; www.adrift.ug; half/full/2 day trips US$115/125/250)
Rafting pioneer Adrift (originally established in Nepal) was set up by a Kiwi adventurer. They also operate bungee jumping and jet boating. Accommodation is at Nile High Camp.
Nalubale RaftingRAFTING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0782-638938; www.nalubalerafting.com; half/full/2 day trips US$115/125/250)
British-run Nalubale has risen through the ranks to become one of the leading rafting companies. Free lodging is at Nalubale Teahouse or Nile River Camp.
THE ISIMBA DAM DEBATE
Following the completion of the Bujagali Dam, which resulted in several beloved rapids being lost and rafting companies relocating their launching point 10km down river, the impending Isimba Hydro Power Project looks set to deliver rafting companies another blow. While in the worst case scenario there will still be plenty of Grade V adrenaline and adventure, if the project goes ahead as planned the whole second section of rafting could be underwater (including the famed wave 'Nile Special' and Hairy Lemon Lodge), cutting a full day's rafting in half. The battle is still being fought to reduce the dam's size to lessen impact on both the environment and tourism. Follow Save Adventure Tourism in Uganda's Facebook page for updates.
Kayaking
An alternative to rafting is to go solo and kayak through the raging river, or take a more leisurely paddle on flat water. Jinja is mostly known among freestyle kayakers for its epic Nile Special wave.
Kayak the NileKAYAKING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0772-880322; www.kayakthenile.com; white-water kayaking half/full day from US$85/115, tandem kayaking US$140, flat-water kayaking from US$75, SUP from US$75)
Run by pro-kayaking husband-wife team (Sam and Emily), the main attraction here is white-water kayaking, which is suitable for beginners (solo or tandem) and advance freestyle kayakers. White-water SUP (stand-up paddle boarding) is another thrilling activity. However it's not all about taming rapids, with relaxing flat-water trips available on sit-on-top kayaks or SUPs. Multiday trips are available too. They're based at Nile River Explorers Campsite in Bujagali.
Boating
At Ripon Landing, next to Jinja Sailing Club, you’ll find several guys hanging about the leisure centre offering trips on Lake Victoria; a half-hour ride to the source of the Nile and back costs USh20,000.
Nile CruisesBOAT TOUR
(www.raftafrica.com/site/nile-cruises.html; lunch/sunset cruise incl drink & food US$30/45)
Those who prefer to take in the river at a leisurely pace can set out on the Nile for a sunset booze cruise, or a lunchtime voyage.
African Queen CRUISE
(%0776-237438; www.wild-uganda.com; per person 2hr cruise US$45, min 4 people)
A classy way of exploring the Nile is to hop on board the African Queen, a restored 1920s steam riverboat allegedly used in the 1951 Hollywood blockbuster starring Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn. Rates include drinks and snacks.
Jet BoatingBOATING
(www.adrift.ug/adventures/wild-nile-jet; adult/child US$75/50)
Bringing a high-octane thrill to the Nile, Adrift’s Wild Nile Jet is an exhilarating 90km/h speedboat trip over the rapids with plenty of thrills, 360-degree spins, jumps and near misses.
Other Activities
Bungee JumpingADVENTURE SPORTS
(%0772-286433; www.adrift.ug/adventures/nile-high-bungee; US$115)
Nearer to Jinja, but more in tune with Bujagali’s vibe, Uganda’s only bungee jump is a 44m plunge to the Nile River from the Adrift rafting company’s Nile High Camp. Night jumps are also available. Minimum age is 13 years.
Nile Horseback SafarisHORSE RIDING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0774-101196; www.nilehorsebacksafaris.com; 1/2/3hr US$40/60/80)
Exploring Jinja via horseback is a popular activity, taking you alongside the Nile River and through local villages, tea estates and sugar plantations. There are also sunset rides (US$60) and overnight safaris (from US$265). Riders need to wear long trousers, closed shoes and there’s a 90kg weight limit. Trips depart at 10am and 2pm daily.
To get here, cross the bridge over Owen Falls dam and take a right at Kayunga Rd, from where it’s 5km; a boda-boda from Jinja will cost around Ush10,000 or, better yet, charter a water-taxi from Bujagali Dam.
Feather & FinBIRDWATCHING, FISHING
(%0772-900451; www.ffp.ug; birdwatching half-/full-day US$40/90, fishing half-/full-day US$50/110)
Whether you're looking to land a Nile perch, or tick off a fishing eagle, kingfisher or stork, Feather & Fin can sort you out for a morning/full-day session of fishing and birdwatching. Longer trips are also available.
All Terrain AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0772-377185; www.atadventures.com; 1hr/half-/full-day US$49/119/195)
Quad-biking along the beautiful banks of the Victoria Nile is a real blast. After a little spin on the practice circuit, it’s time to explore the paths and trails criss-crossing the nearby countryside. There are several possible circuits, including a twilight safari that includes dinner in a village. It offers overnight trips too, and kid-sized rides are also available. Located at Bujagali Falls.
Explorers Mountain BikingMOUNTAIN BIKING
(%0772-422373; www.raftafrica.com; from US$30)
A range of guided rides are available around Jinja, including visits to villages between Bujagali Falls and Jinja, finishing off with a boat ride to the source of the Nile River. Further afield there’s also hardcore trips through Mabira Forest Reserve (from US$45), as well as tailor-made trips. Mountain bike hire is available from US$15 for a half day and US25 for a full day.
Community WalksWALKING TOUR
(http://raftafrica.com/site/other-activities/village-walk.html#main; per person US$7)
A great opportunity to experience local culture, these three-hour walks visit places you wouldn't otherwise see, such as farms, rural villages and health clinics, and include stopovers to sample local food and village beers. Trips help fund projects in villages in the area.
FABIOCYCLING, TOURS
(First African Bicycle Information Office;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0705-935030, 0434-121255; www.fabio.or.ug; 9 Main St; 24hr bike hire USh15,000, tours USh50,000)
This NGO arranges bike tours around Jinja and Lake Victoria with a focus on discovering its rich history. They also rent out basic single-speed bikes and mountain bikes for those who prefer to go it alone.
4Sleeping
Jinja has some wonderful guesthouses in its leafy suburbs away from the dusty city centre. And there’s some good options further downriver or near Bujagali, around 5km from Jinja.
Jinja
Busoga Trust GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.busogatrust.co.uk/busogatrust/guesthouse; 18 Lubogo Lane; incl breakfast dm US$12, s/d from US$14/27; 
W)
The perfect choice for those not into Jinja's backpacker scene, Busoga Trust has a chilled-out vibe with homely lounge, kitchen for self-caterers, fast wi-fi, a patio looking out to its garden, and spacious rooms. Proceeds go directly towards water sanitation projects in rural villages.
Explorers BackpackersBACKPACKERS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0434-120236; www.raftafrica.com; 41 Wilson Ave; camping/dm/d US$5/7/25; 
iW)
Jinja’s original crash pad is still the most popular budget choice in Jinja itself. Dorms are decent and there’s one double room available. Overland trucks pop in now and then, but this is a much quieter spot than Bujagali.
Safari InnHOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0434-122955; www.traveluganda.co.ug/safariinn; 3 Nalufenya Rd; s/d incl breakfast USh51,000/60,000; 
s)
Sure it's a bit scuffed around the edges, but this unpretentious hotel is easily one of the best budget deals in town; for its swimming pool, large lawn and big rooms.
Nalubale TeahouseBACKPACKERS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0782-638938; www.nalubalerafting.com/rooms.html; 38 Kiira Rd; camping US$5, dm US$10)
The base for Nalubale rafters (who stay for free), this lively backpacker hangout has clean dorms in a colonial house set in a leafy neighbourhood.
Jinja BackpackersHOSTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0774-730659; www.jinjabackpackers.com; Bridge Close; camping US$5, dm US$10, r without bathroom US$40; W)
This unassuming, relaxed backpackers is owned by a Kiwi-Aussie couple who've set up rooms in a large sheep shearing–like shed with dorms and private rooms centred around a ping-pong table. It's conveniently set just back from Bourbon bar and the waterfront.
oGately on NileBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0434-122400; www.gately-on-nile.com; 47 Nile Cres; s US$50-80, d US$70-105, house s/d US$130/150; iW)
The classiest guesthouse in Jinja, Gately's stylish rooms are split between a lovely garden premises with a selection of thoughtfully decorated rooms, and loft apartments across the road looking on to Lake Victoria. The Mediterranean-style house is a great choice for honeymooners, families or larger groups. Its restaurant is one of the best in town.
Source of the Smile GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0783-842021; www.sourceofthesmile.com; 39 Kiira Rd; incl breakfast s US$77-87, d US$88-98; Ws)
Mixing a relaxed vibe with a bohemian, arty design, flower garden and Tiki pool this guesthouse is indeed likely to bring a smile to one's face. For a bit of character, opt for the poolside rooms; otherwise there's cheaper, more conventional rooms out back.
Surjio'sBOUTIQUE HOTEL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0772-500400; www.surjios.com; 24 Kisinja Rd; s/d incl full breakfast US$80/125; Ws)
Relaxed Surjio’s is a top midrange choice with a pleasant garden set away from town near the edge of the Nile. Pricier rooms are spacious with polished blonde-wood floors, large beds and lovely bathrooms. Go for an upstairs room, which gets you a glimpse of the Nile. Staff are friendly, and it has a swimming pool and a popular woodfired pizzeria (from USh23,000).
2 Friends GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0783-160804; www.2friends.info; 5 Jackson Cres; s/d incl full breakfast from $US106/124; iWs)
A relaxed guesthouse with smart rooms, a bamboo garden and good swimming pool.
Around Jinja
Nile River Explorers CampsiteBACKPACKERS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0772-422373; http://raftafrica.com/site/accommodation/explorers-river-camp.html; Bujagali; camping US$7, dm US$12, r with/without bathroom from US$50/30; iW)
The most popular place to stay at Bujagali, this attractive camp is set on a grassy site with sensational river views. There's a good mix of budget rooms, often full with overland trucks and backpackers, but the pick of accommodation are the tented camps sloped along the terraced hill, which have superb outlooks – as do the showers!
The restaurant and its beer garden also have sensational views (definitely worth a visit, even if you're not staying here), and serve up tasty burgers and other favourites. It's packed to the rafters come evening, and is one of Jinja's best places to party.
Nile River CampCAMPGROUND, BACKPACKERS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0776-900450; www.camponthenile.com; camping US$6, dm US$12, safari tent US$54; Ws)
This laid-back site run by Nalubale Rafting has a scenic river location fringed with eucalyptus trees and an atmospheric thatched-roof restaurant-bar. There are hammocks strung about the place and the swimming pool is a huge drawcard.
oHavenBANDA
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0702-905959; www.thehaven-uganda.com; camping US$15, lazy camping incl full board s/d US$75/130, bandas s/d incl full board from US$140/230; W)
S
Located 15km from Jinja along Kayunga Rd (next to the starting point for white-water rafting), this wonderful lodge's main selling point is its sensational panoramic river location, enjoyed directly from its suave bandas and bungalows. It has numerous ecofriendly credentials, a safari-style restaurant and swimming pool with sun lounges.
The top-notch food is another draw, and non-guests can visit just for a meal (set menu breakfast US$12, lunch US$15, dinner US$18) but you must make a reservation. A boda-boda from Jinja will cost around Ush10,000.
Nile PorchLODGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0782-321541; www.nileporch.com; Bujagali; safari tent s/d incl breakfast US$113/136, cottages US$213; iWs)
Bringing the safari lodge experience to Bujagali, the Nile Porch has luxurious tented camps that are all superbly set on a cliff above the river. There’s a swimming pool, and family cottages (minus the views) which sleep six for those travelling in groups.
Hairy LemonBANDAS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0434-130349, 0772-828338; www.hairylemonuganda.com; incl full board camping US$30, dm from US$38, bandas s/d from US$69/118)
Situated 15km downstream from the starting point for rafting, Hairy Lemon's isolated location on a small island makes it the perfect getaway retreat. More rustic than luxurious, dorms and bandas are basic and mostly share bathrooms. A short paddle away is Nile Special, a world-class wave for kayakers. It’s essential to book ahead.
To get here, take a minibus from Jinja to Nazigo (USh4000, one hour) and then a boda-boda (USh4000) for the last 9km to the Hairy Lemon. A special-hire should be around USh60,000. There’s a wheel hub here to bang on to alert the boat driver to come and pick you up. You need to arrive before 6pm.
Houseboat SafariHOUSEBOAT
(%0772-422373; http://raftafrica.com/site/other-activities/houseboat-safaris; per person incl full board US$125)
For something a bit different, spend a night cruising Lake Victoria in this houseboat equipped with double cabins, kitchen, top deck and lounge-bar area. Also available for day-trip rental (per person US$80).
oWildwaters LodgeLODGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0772-237400; www.wild-uganda.com; s/d incl full board US$550/700; iWs)
One of Uganda's best luxury hotels, Wildwaters lives up to its name by overlooking a raging stretch of the Nile from its stunning island location. Accessed via a boardwalk, the private thatched-roof suites have canvas walls and palatial interiors with gleaming polished floorboards, poster beds and sofas. All open up to balconies with outdoor clawfoot baths overlooking unhindered Nile views.
The lovely restaurant, natural-style swimming pool and lounge deck are also perched right on the river. It’s located on the west bank of the Nile along Kayunga Rd (turn off near the Nile Brewery), about 20km from Jinja, and is accessed by a five-minute boat trip. Day trippers are charged a US$15 entrance fee.
5Eating & Drinking
Due to its sizeable expat and NGO community, Jinja has some good eating options. Most travellers aren’t here for the nightlife, though Main St offers a suitable strip for a bar crawl. Spot 6 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main St) and Babez ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main St), a few doors down from each other, are the liveliest.
oFlavoursCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.enjoyflavours.com; 12 Main St; coffee USh4500, sandwiches USh11,500; h8.30am-11pm)
Funky cafe that reminds wazungu of back home, with good coffee, baguettes and plenty of artwork on the walls. Also has a beer garden out back.
Source CaféCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.source.co.ug; 20 Main St; mains from USh6000; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; W)
This church-affiliated cafe serves some of the best coffee in town, and has free wi-fi.
LeozINDIAN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %0434-120298; 11 Main St; mains USh14,000-22,000; h8.30am-10.30pm)
This friendly laid-back Nepali-owned restaurant is the first word in authentic South Asian food, from Indian thalis to dhaal bhaat, with some Ugandan dishes also available.
Black LanternINTERNATIONAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.nileporch.com; mains USh17,000-30,000; h7.30am-9pm; W)
Bujagali's premier dining destination is set under an elegant traditional thatched-roof and has an extensive menu showcasing dishes from around the world. Spare ribs are a speciality, while tilapia grilled in banana leaves with salad is a tasty choice.
Gately on NileINTERNATIONAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.gately-on-nile.com; 47 Nile Cres; mains USh19,000-27,000; h7am-9.30pm; W)
The restaurant on the back porch of the popular boutique hotel of the same name exudes the atmosphere of a Balinese garden. The fusion menu shows plenty of international flair.
Jinja Sailing ClubINTERNATIONAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.jinjasailingclub.com; Pier Rd; mains USh25,000-30,000; h11am-11pm; W)
A long time coming, the Sailing Club has been completely rebuilt in modern resort style, but this is unimportant once you're sipping a drink on the lawn overlooking Lake Victoria. The menu features Indian, African and Western classics.
oBourbonBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Bridge Close; h10am-2am)
Right on the lakeside, Bourbon's open-air thatched bar and picnic tables set on the lawn are Jinja's liveliest spots for a drink. There are also DJs in the bar on the hill. Check the Facebook page for upcoming events.
7Shopping
Kilombera WorkshopHANDICRAFTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %0793-439619; www.facebook.com/kilomberaweaving; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
The colourful cotton textiles (place mats, table runners, bedspreads) for sale around Jinja are made on hand-operated looms at this Nile-side workshop. Visitors are welcome to stop by and watch the process. There’s a showroom here with items for sale. It’s signposted 200m off the road, halfway between Jinja and Bujagali.
8Information
You can get online at tons of places along Main St and wi-fi is available at many hotels and restaurants. Main St also has many banks with ATMs.
Immigration OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; Busoga Rd)
The Immigration Office can arrange visa extensions, and is for a less hectic alternative to Kampala.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Most rafting companies offer complimentary transport to/from Kampala; even if you're not rafting it's worth checking to see if there's a spare seat available (USh10,000).
Pineapple Express shuttle makes a daily trip at 7.30am for Kampala/Entebbe.
The Post Bus is the best option for public transport. There are also frequent minibus taxis to Kampala (USh6000, two hours) and coasters to Kampala (USh5000), Mbale (USh10,000, two hours), Soroti (USh20,000, four hours) or Busia (USh10,000, two hours) on the Kenyan border. There’s no need to travel to Nairobi in stages as you can book tickets on the big buses passing through from Kampala.
Car
If you’re driving yourself, the best route from Kampala is the longer but faster and almost completely truck-free road north through Kayunga.
8Getting Around
The centre of Jinja is compact enough to wander about on foot. For getting elsewhere you’ll want a boda-boda; a ride to Bujagali will cost about USh5000.
Mbale
Pop 89,000
A bustling provincial city, you’ll pass through Mbale if you're planning an assault on Mt Elgon or en route to Sipi Falls. Away from the dusty centre there are pockets of charm and it does have a scenic mountain backdrop, but there’s no real reason to hang around here.
1Sights
Moses SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(Nabugoye Hill)
An unexpected find in this neck of the woods, the Jewish Abayudaya community in the outskirts of Mbale on Nabugoye Hill dates back to the early 20th century. The synagogue is a simple, yet appealing, rustic red-brick building (though there are plans to redevelop it into a modern sleek design) with services in English and Hebrew held on Fridays from 6pm to 8pm, and Saturdays at 9am. There's also a guesthouse for those interested in staying.
Former military leader Semei Kakungulu founded the sect in 1913, fusing elements of Judaism and Christianity with a disbelief in Western medicine, leading to a falling out with British rulers. During the 20th century the group withstood widespread persecution, particularly under Idi Amin, who outlawed Judaism and destroyed synagogues.
A special-hire taxi from Mbale costs USh25,000; a boda-boda is USh3000.
4Sleeping & Eating
Casa Del TuristaBACKPACKERS
(%0772-328085; 18 Nkokonjeru Tce; incl breakfast dm US$10, s/d US$16/25; W)
This friendly guesthouse is a relaxed place to hang out with fast wi-fi, spotless dorms and private beds. Its Eco Shamba cafe has quality food and top organic Mt Elgon coffee. Proceeds go to a local school.
New Mt Elgon View HotelHOTEL
(%0772-445562; 5 Cathedral Ave; s/d with bathroom USh45,000/70,000, without bathroom from USh15,000/30,000, annexe s/d/tr USh36,000/45,000/75,000)
In a busy part of town, this budget hotel has the feel of an Indian guesthouse with good-value rooms and a fantastic rooftop hangout. Room 11 has splendid mountain views, but the spacious self-contained rooms in the annex across the street are the nicest. Downstairs is the excellent South Asian Nurali’s Café (%0772-445562; 5 Cathedral Ave; mains USh9000-15,000; h8.30am-10.30pm). Note the 9am checkout time.
Landmark InnHOTEL
(%0714-328333; Wanale Rd; r incl breakfast USh35,000)
An old rundown mansion down a leafy residential street, Landmark has several massive rooms featuring high ceilings and spacious bathrooms. The downstairs restaurant serves some of the tastiest Indian food in Uganda. It's 200m from the Sports Club.
Mt Elgon HotelHOTEL
(%0454-433454; www.mountelgonhotel.com; 30 Masaba Rd; hincl breakfast s US$80-150, d US$100-160; 
aiWs)
A colonial-era stalwart with modern flair, rooms here are spacious and are quite plush at the top of the price range. It’s in a quiet area outside the city, surrounded by verdant grounds.
8Information
National Park HeadquartersTOURIST INFORMATION
(%0454-433170; www.ugandawildlife.org/national-parks/mt-elgon-national-park; 19 Masaba Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun)
Organise your Mt Elgon visit here, about 1km from the city centre.
8Getting There & Away
The Post Bus heads to/from Kampala daily via Jinja. There are frequent buses or minibuses to Kampala (USh15,000, four hours), Jinja (USh10,000, three hours), Kumi (USh7000, one hour), Soroti (USh10,000, three hours), Moroto (USh30,000, nine hours) and Kotido (USh40,000, 10 hours) from the main taxi rank off Manafa Rd. Behind it is the bus stand, with less-frequent transport to Jinja, Kampala, and Soroti. Prices are similar to minibus prices.
For Sipi Falls (USh7000, one hour), Kapchorwa (USh10,000, 1¼ hours) and Budadari (USh5000, 45 minutes), head to the Kumi Rd taxi rank northeast of town. Services are infrequent to these smaller places so it’s best to travel in the morning.
Gateway (%0414-234090; Cathedral Rd) has a bus to Nairobi (USh35,000, 12 hours).
Mt Elgon National Park
Trekking in Mt Elgon National Park (adult/child $35/5, trekking per day incl fees & guide US$90) offers a good alternative to climbing Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains or Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, with a milder climate, lower elevation and much more reasonable prices. The park encompasses the upper regions of Mt Elgon to the Kenyan border and this is said to be one of the largest surface areas of any extinct volcano in the world.
Elgon, whose name is derived from the Maasai name, Ol Doinyo Ilgoon (‘Breast Mountain’), has five major peaks with the highest, Wagagai (4321m), rising on the Ugandan side. It’s the second tallest mountain in Uganda (after Mt Stanley at 5109m) and the eighth tallest in Africa, though millions of years ago it was the continent’s tallest. The mountain is peppered with cliffs, caves, gorges and waterfalls, and the views from the higher reaches stretch way across eastern Uganda’s wide plains.
The lower slopes are covered in tropical montane forest with extensive stands of bamboo. Above 3000m the forest fades into heath and then Afro-alpine moorland, which blankets the caldera, a collapsed crater covering some 40 sq km. The moorland is studded with rare plant species, such as giant groundsel and endemic Lobelia elgonensis, and you’ll often see duikers bounding through the long grass and endangered lammergeier vultures overhead. In September it’s decorated with wildflowers. You’ll probably see a few primates and lots of birds, including the rare Jackson’s francolin, alpine chat and white-starred forest robin, but you’ll be lucky to spot a leopard, hyena, buffalo, elephant or other big mammal.
MT ELGON NATIONAL PARK
Why Go
Uganda’s second-highest peak, Wagagai (4321m); trekking routes into Kenya or Sipi Falls.
When to Go
Year-round, but generally less rain from June to August and December to March. From September to October there are wildflowers.
Practicalities
Decent trekking equipment can be rented at Rose’s Last Chance in Budadari. The park is best accessed via Mbale, a three-hour drive from Kampala.
Budget Tips
Rose's Last Chance can arrange a number of walks in the area that don't require paying for a park permit.
1Trekking Mt Elgon
Mt Elgon may be a relatively easy climb, but this is still a big, wild mountain. Rain, hail and thick mists aren’t uncommon, even in the dry season, and night-time temperatures frequently drop below freezing. Pack adequate clothing and at least one day’s extra food, just in case. Altitude sickness is rarely a problem, but heed the warning signs. It’s also wise to check the latest security situation, as there are occasional incidents along the Kenyan border; an armed escort is provided.
While you can climb Mt Elgon year-round, the best time is from June to August or December to March. Seasons are unpredictable and it can rain at any time. You can get information and organise your trek at the Mt Elgon National Park Headquarters (%0454-433170; 19 Masaba Rd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun) in Mbale or at the visitor centres at each of the trailheads, all open in theory from 8am to 5pm weekdays, and 8am to 3pm weekends.
Even as the number of visitors on Mt Elgon increases, tourism remains relatively underdeveloped and no more than 250 people reach the caldera in the busiest months. It’s possible to hike for days without seeing another climber. The climb is nontechnical and relatively easy, as far as 4000-plus-metre ascents go.
If you're not up for the full climb there are also numerous options for day hikes.
Costs
Trekking on Mt Elgon costs US$90 per person per day, which covers park entry fees and a ranger-guide. Permits are issued at UWA offices at each trailhead. Guides are mandatory whether heading to the summit or just doing a day trip. Camping fees are USh15,000 more per night and porters, who are highly recommended, charge USh15,000 per day for carrying 18kg. Also factor in tips, which are highly appreciated.
Supplies
Rose’s Last Chance in Budadari rents tents (USh10,000), trekking boots (USh10,000), sleeping bags (USh5000) and mats (USh5000) per night.
If you're not up for organising the trip independently, Sipi River Lodge offers well-organised and well-priced Mt Elgon tours.
There are several supermarkets in Mbale for stocking up on supplies. Porters can make campfires for cooking but, for environmental reasons, the park requests that you bring a campstove if you have one.
Trails
There are four routes up the mountain. Many people combine different routes going up and down for maximum variety. We’ve given the standard travel times for the various routes, but if you’re up to the challenge these can all be shortened by a day or two. On the other hand, you may want to add an extra day to further explore the caldera or visit the Suam Gorge, or let the guides take you to waterfalls and caves. If summiting at Wagagai, it only takes an extra hour to hit Jackson’s Summit (4165m) via Jackson’s Pool, a little crater lake. You must use designated campsites, all of which have tent pads, latrines, rubbish pits and nearby water sources.
Climbers have the option of continuing their trek into Kenya. Park staff at the headquarters will take you to the immigration office in Mbale for the requisite paperwork and then hand you off to the Kenya Wildlife Service at the hot springs in the caldera. It’s a two-day hike down the Kenyan side.
There are also many options for day hikes, with the most popular being a trio of short loops around the Forest Exploration Centre at the start of the Sipi Trail. Rose's Last Chance offers day walks for USh30,000 (including lunch) or a two-day Budadari to Sipi Falls walk along the slopes of Mt Elgon, visiting villages and coffee plantations en route (USh300,000 per person inclusive of food, tents, guide, porter); no park permit required.
Sasa Trail
The Sasa Trail is the original route to Wagagai, and still the busiest as it can easily be reached by public transport from Mbale. It’s a three- to four-day round trip to the summit with a 1650m ascent on day one. From Budadari, which is considered the trailhead, a road leads 5km to Bumasola (you can take a car up this leg if you want) then it’s a short walk to the forest. Almost as soon as you enter the forest, you reach Mudangi Cliffs, which are scaled via ladders, then it’s 2½ hours of pure bamboo forest. The second day is an easier walk. On summit day, it’s four hours from your campsite to Wagagai.
Sipi Trail
The Sipi Trail, which begins at the Forest Exploration Centre in Kapkwai, has become a popular return route as it allows you to chill out at Sipi Falls following your trip to the top. It’s four to seven days round trip, though you can opt to descend via the Sasa Trail, an easier route. On the first day you can camp inside the huge Tutum Cave, which has a small waterfall over its entrance and once attracted elephants who dug salt out of the rock, much like some more famous caves on the Kenyan side still do.
Piswa Trail
Starting high, the Piswa Trail has a gentler ascent than the Sipi Trail. It’s the best wildlife-watching route as it doesn’t pass through bamboo stands, and it also offers the longest pass through the other-worldly moorland in the caldera. It’s a six-day journey when returning by the Sasa Trail and seven days when coming back via the Sipi Trail. Piswa Trail is less used because it begins in the difficult to reach village of Kapkwata.
Suam Trail
The rarely used Suam Trail is a five-day route starting at a higher elevation than the Sasa Trail and climbing through the Suam Gorge right along the Kenyan border.
4Sleeping & Eating
oRose's Last ChanceGUESTHOUSE
(%0772-623206; www.roseslastchance.yolasite.com; camping USh15,000, dm USh20,000, s/d USh30,000/40,000)
Located near the trailhead in Budadari, Rose's is a laid-back, comfortable, fun and friendly place that brings guests closer to the local scene. Testing local brews is a favourite activity and Rose sometimes brings in musicians and dancers at night. The dining room has good vibes and bedrooms are cosy and clean. It’s located a few doors down from the UWA office.
Forest Exploration CentreGUESTHOUSE
(camping USh15,000, dm USh10,000, s/d USh40,000/55,000)
This lovely spot run by UWA is right at the Sipi trailhead and has a little restaurant.
Wirr Community CampsiteCAMPGROUND
(camping USh10,000)
This campsite is just outside the park gate next to the Forest Education Centre, but the community seem to have given up on it. Sipi Falls is a better bet if you’d rather not pay the park fee on the first night.
Kapkwata GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(camping USh15,000, r USh35,000)
This simple place serves the Piswa trailhead. Bring your own food.
Suam GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE
(camping USh15,000, r USh35,000)
A budget UWA lodge (cold water only) at Suam trail where you'll need to bring your own food.
8Getting There & Away
Sasa Trail
There are regular minibuses from Mbale to Budadari (USh5000, one hour).
Sipi Trail
There’s no regular transport to the Forest Exploration Centre, but minibuses between Mbale and Kapchorwa (USh10,500, 1½ hours) pass the signposted turn-off to Kapkwai and get off at Chuma, 6km up from Sipi, from where it’s a 6km walk to the centre. A boda-boda from Sipi should cost USh10,000 to USh15,000 depending on how dry the road is; a fair special-hire price from Mbale to Kapkwai is around USh80,000. A more interesting way to get to the centre is to hire a guide at Sipi to walk you through the villages, about a 90-minute trip.
Piswa Trail
Getting to the Piswa trailhead in Kapkwata takes some effort. The excellent paved road ends at Kapchorwa. From here you’ll have to take a minivan taxi to Kapkwata (USh10,000) for the often rough 33km trip that can take up to four hours. They run until around 3pm, so it’s possible to make it from Mbale in a day.
Suam Trail
From Mbale you could try for a minivan taxi to the Kenya border at Suam (USh35,000, five to six hours). Failing that there are minivans to Kapchorwa (USh10,000 1½ hours) from where you'll catch another to Suam (USh25,000, four hours). Otherwise there are trucks here from Kapkwata via a terrible road. You reach the border by early afternoon and should have little problem moving straight on to Kitale by matatu. There’s basic lodging if you can’t.
Sipi Falls
Sipi Falls, in the foothills of Mt Elgon, is a stunner – arguably the most beautiful waterfall in all of Uganda. There are three levels, and though the upper two are beautiful, it’s the 95m main drop that attracts the crowds, and most of Sipi’s lodging looks out over it. Not only are the falls spectacular, so too are the views of the wide plains disappearing into the distance below. It’s well worth spending a night or two in this peaceful, pretty place.
2Activities & Tours
Guides for activities are best organised through your hotel or the grassroots Sipi Falls Tourism Guide Association (%0753-331078) based outside Sipi Falls Resort.
Rob's Rolling RockABSEILING, ROCK CLIMBING
(%0776-963078; www.rollingrocksipifalls.wordpress.com; abseiling/rock climbing US$50/40)
Next to Lacam Lodge, this reliable local outfit's mainstay is a 100m abseil (US$50) alongside the main falls – providing the undisputed best views in Sipi! They've also bolted in 14 rock-climbing routes (easy to intermediate), and there are plans to open accommodation and a bar on the property.
Walks to Sipi Falls
There are some excellent walks on a network of well-maintained local trails with beautiful scenery in every direction. The most popular walk is to the bottom of the falls, which during the rainy season is an awe-inspiring sight. It’s a steep climb down through villages and crops, and a sweaty, exhausting climb back up. There’s a cave behind the easy-to-reach second falls, that's really worth the climb. If it's a clear day you can literally see halfway across Uganda from the ridge at the top.
It’s easy enough to ramble off on your own, but a guide is highly recommended as you’ll cross much private property (without a guide you’ll need to pay at several points) and will also be asked for money by children (either to be your guide or just because). Figure on about USh15,000 to get to the bottom of the main drop and USh25,000 for the four-hour, 8km walk to all three.
There are also village walks and the forest walking trails at Mt Elgon National Park’s Forest Exploration Centre nearby, though you have to pay the national park fees to hike there.
Coffee Tours
A highlight of visiting Sipi is taking a coffee tour that walks you through the whole process: from picking the coffee berries, to shelling them, grinding them with a traditional mortar and pestle, roasting them on an open fire and – of course – finishing with a fine cup of strong arabica coffee (including a bag for you to take home). Tours cost USh25,000 per person and involve a village visit to one of the mudbrick houses that have a small coffee plantation plot.
Mountain Biking
Sipi River Lodge is in the process of developing a selection of mountain-biking routes ranging from hardcore technical rocky climbs to downhill sections; definitely one to keep your eye on. Bike hire is also on the cards.
4Sleeping & Eating
Sipi has a good range of tasteful lodges. A word of warning: food can take a very long time to cook, so it’s best to preorder.
Crow's NestGUESTHOUSE
(%0772-687924; thecrowsnets@yahoo.com; camping USh10,000, dm USh20,000, cabins USh40,000-120,000)
Set up by Peace Corps volunteers, Crow's Nest's log cabins are Scandinavian in style with private bathrooms and views of all three waterfalls from their terraces (go for cabin 2 or 3). They can arrange cultural walks (USh30,000) that cover everything from throwing spears to learning how to ward off evil spirits. Yes, someone really did make a mess of the email address: crowsnets, not nest!
Moses' CampsiteGUESTHOUSE
(%0752-208302; camping USh10,000, bandas per person USh20,000)
Sipi’s original backpacker, this small, laid-back operation has a good view of the falls from its wonderful rickety terrace and unhindered views of the plains below from a rocky cliff. The bandas are decent, the staff friendly and colobus monkeys often hang around here.
Sipi River LodgeLODGE
(%0751-796109; www.sipiriverlodge.com; incl full board dm US$60, banda s/d US$90/124, cottage d/q US$236/407)
This attractive lodge has a tranquil setting among a garden full of flowers, with a flowing creek and Sipi's second waterfall as a memorable backdrop. Rooms range from charming country-style cottages, to bandas and 'dorms' (which you're unlikely to have to share) with wide, comfy beds.
Many of the ingredients on the menu come from the on-site vegetable garden. A nightly set menu (USh40,000 for drop-in diners) is served around an atmospheric dining room with a log fire and well-stocked bar. There are plenty of activities too, from Mt Elgon treks, mountain biking, fly fishing and coffee tours on their plantation.
Sipi Falls ResortLODGE
(%0753-153000; sipiresort@gmail.com; camping USh30,000, s/d/tr incl breakfast USh152,000/180,000/222,000)
A very good all-round choice, Sipi Falls Resort's sublime waterfall views, good food, and affordable, character-filled bandas (with open-air private showers) ensure a memorable stay. The old house was used as a residence by the last British governor of Uganda, but the rooms in there are overpriced and lack atmosphere.
Lacam LodgeLODGE
(%0752-292554; www.lacamlodge.co.uk; camping from USh65,000, dm from USh80,000, r without bathroom from s/d USh90,000/120,000, bandas s/d/tr from USh130,000/220,000/300,000)
This very attractive lodge is the closest to the big waterfall, and from the viewing area you can see the water crash on land. Accommodation here, from the three-bed dorms to the large bandas, is very stylish and comfortable, and the service is good. Rates include full board and fluctuate seasonally.
7Shopping
Sipi Women's Craft ShopCRAFTS
(h7am-7pm)
Made by local women, proceeds from the quality crafts, clothes and accessories sold here go to the community. They also sell Sipi coffee and honey. It's on the outskirts of town as you approach from Mbale.
8Getting There & Away
Minibus taxis run between Mbale and Sipi Falls (USh10,000, one hour), but can take a long time to fill up.
For the return trip, most minibuses start at Kapchorwa and are often full when they pass through Sipi, so you may end up waiting a while. Ask at your lodge if they know when any minibuses will start the trip in Sipi.
To Mbale expect to pay around USh40,000 for a special hire or USh7000 for a boda-boda.
Nyero Rock Paintings
Of the many ancient rock-art sites scattered around eastern Uganda, this is one of the easiest to reach, and one of the few that's worth the effort to do so. The main site, known as Nyero 2, is a big white wall covered in groups of red circles, boats and some vaguely human and animal forms. Archaeologists have yet to unravel the significance of the designs, who painted them and even when they did so. If the caretaker is around, he’ll charge USh5000 for an informative tour, otherwise local kids will show you around. Nyero 1, with a few more circles, lies just below the main site while Nyero 3, where you probably won’t notice the modest painting unless someone shows you, is a few hundred metres north. The surrounding countryside is littered with bouldery peaks and cacti, giving it a Wild West feel.
The Nyero rock paintings are 9km west of Kumi, an easy day trip from Mbale (USh7000, one hour), Sipi or even Jinja. From Kumi the round trip (including waiting time) by special hire costs USh30,000 and by boda-boda around USh4000.