Northeastern Uganda

Kidepo Valley National Park

Offering some of the most stunning scenery of any protected area in Uganda Kidepo Valley National Park (adult/child US$40/20) is hidden away in a lost valley in the extreme northeast of Uganda. The rolling, short-grass savannah of the 1442-sq-km national park is ringed by mountains and cut by rocky ridges.

Kidepo is most notable for harbouring a number of animals found nowhere else in Uganda, including cheetahs, bat-eared foxes, aardwolves, caracals, greater and lesser kudus. There are also large concentrations of elephants, zebras, buffaloes, bushbucks, giraffes, lions, jackals, leopards, hyenas and Nile crocodiles.

Amazingly, most of these animals, including even the occasional lion, are content to graze and lounge right near the park’s accommodation, so you can see a whole lot without going very far: it’s a safari from a lounge chair (or in Apoka Safari Lodge’s case – from a bathtub!).

The bird checklist is fast approaching 500 species (second among the national parks only to the larger Queen Elizabeth National Park) and there are many ‘Kidepo specials’ – birds such as the ostrich, kori bustard, pygmy falcon, secretary bird, Karamoja apalis and Abyssinian ground hornbill – that are found in no other Ugandan national park.

KIDEPO VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Stunning scenery; best variety of wildlife in Uganda including zebras, cheetahs and ostriches to go with lions, giraffes and elephants; the chance to visit a Karamojong village.

When to Go

November to January, when you might see some of the biggest buffalo herds in Africa. The rainy season (August to September) has long grass that impedes viewing, and it can also be problematic accessing the park on muddy roads. But you’re sure to see lots of animals at any time.

Practicalities

Can be reached in a day from Kampala if you have your own car. Public transport takes a few days, with a night in Kitgum or Gulu; if approaching from the east you'll need to overnight in Moroto, Soroti or Kotdio.

Budget Tips

Apoka Hostel offers well-priced bandas at the park headquarters, as does Buffalo Base outside the park; consider getting a group together to chip in to hire a 4WD from Kampala.

2Activities & Tours

Wildlife Drives

Kidepo is the only park in Uganda where UWA has a vehicle (day/night US$90/120) but it’s not always available. For those with their own vehicles, there's an extensive network of tracks in the park, with Narus Valley being a top target for wildlife. Lions are often spotted lazing in rocky outcrops and climbing the branches of fig trees. Also popular are the borassus palm forest and Kanangorok hot springs by the Kidepo River near the South Sudan border; which is also the habitat of ostriches. With your own vehicles night drives cost US$40 for guide and spotlight.

Nature Walks

A great option for wildlife viewing is to venture out on foot, accompanied by armed rangers.

Cultural Tours

UWA can organise visits (US$30) to Karamojong and Ik villages with hiking at Mt Morungole, both memorable experiences allowing you to interact with these northeastern tribal groups.

4Sleeping & Eating

If you want to be in the thick of the action, the park maintains several isolated campsites (USh15,000) with latrines and water. You’ll be accompanied by an armed guard who can arrange firewood for cooking.

Apoka HostelBANDAS

(%0392-899500; camping USh15,000, s/d with bathroom USh60,000/70,000, without bathroom USh40,000/50,000)

The best of UWA’s park lodges, laid-back Apoka has basic bandas spread over its grassy site. There’s plenty of wildlife about, so be sure to keep your distance and always carry a torch. You've got a good chance of hearing lions roaring at night. There’s a small restaurant with a limited menu (meals USh8000) and cold beers to enjoy around the nightly campfire.

Buffalo BaseGUESTHOUSE

(%0776-146548; www.buffalobase.com; Karenga; s/d USh30,000/45,000)

Well outside the park in the small township of Karenga (8km from Kidepo's gate), this simple roadside guesthouse is a good option for those wanting to experience Karamoja culture by staying in a manyata (traditional Karamoja round hut). There are also basic rooms, and food is served in its pleasant little restaurant. Cultural performances can also be arranged.

Nga'Moru Wilderness CampLODGE

(%0754-500555; www.ngamoru.com; s/d incl full board US$160/240)

This lovely, wild and peaceful spot just outside the edge of the park’s border comprises luxury camping with bush showers and huge cottages with prime views. Lions occasionally hang out here. Owner Patrick is an excellent source of info for northern Uganda.

oApoka Safari LodgeLODGE

(%0414-251182; www.wildplacesafrica.com; s/d incl full board & 2 activities US$530/740; Ws)

If you want something really special, you want Apoka Safari Lodge. Its large, private cottages with thatched-roofs and canvas walls all look out to wildlife grazing right on your doorstep. Each features an outdoor tub (watch animals graze while you have a bath), stone showers, perfect views and a writing desk that would suit Hemingway to a tee.

It has a lovely swimming pool (US$25 for nonguests) with a rocky bottom and sweeping savannah views, and meals are ocassionally available for nonguests (lunch US$30, dinner US$45), depending on how many guests are staying. Reception displays the skull of Kidepo’s last rhino – shot by poachers in the early 1980s.

8Getting There & Away

There are two routes to reach Kidepo. The vast majority of visitors take the route through to Kitgum via Gulu, which is the shortest, easiest and safest route. Otherwise there's the more adventurous eastern route through spectacular scenery of Karamoja. Ideally one would combine the two routes into a northern loop of the country taking in Murchison National Park en route.

Undoubtedly your best bet is to rent a car, in which case you can make it in one day from Kampala to Kidepo if you get a very early start. Alternatively you could take a bus to Kitgum and negotiate a special hire from there.

Chartering a flight is another option (popular with high-end clients) as Kidepo has its own airstrip. Fly Uganda and Aerolink can arrange flights.

Otherwise Matoke Tours and Buffalo Safari Camps (%0782-805639; www.buffalosafaricamps.com) are two reputable companies that specialise in affordable Kidepo safaris.

Bus

Getting to Kidepo Valley National Park by public transport is certainly possible, but you can't make it in one day. There are two possible routes, both are long and at times difficult journeys, but this is one place where travel is its own reward.

From Kampala, most opt for the bus to Kitgum (USh30,000, seven hours via Gulu) where you'll have to overnight. From Kitgum, your best bet is to jump on a truck heading to Karenga (USh20,000, three hours), the gateway town for the park. Trucks depart Kitgum from around 8am till 10am. From Karenga, you can arrange to be picked up by the UWA vehicle (for a pricey USh4000 per km) for the 24km journey to the park’s headquarters and lodging area. Make sure you pay for 24km, not 48km. Otherwise you can try your luck hitching a ride with other travellers heading into the park – try Fugly’s, Bomah Hotel or the UWA office. A boda-boda is another option, which should cost around USh30,000 (including driver entry fees) into the park headquarters – though it can be a risky trip given the wildlife about.

The other route for getting to Kidepo from Kampala is via eastern Uganda through Karamojaland. Gateway has daily buses to Kotido (USh50,000, 15 hours), departing Kampala’s New Bus Park in the early morning. From Kotido take a shared taxi (USh6500) or bus (USh15,000) for the 72km journey to Kaabong (two to three hours), a rough ‘wild east’ town. From there, jump on the less frequent trucks to Karenga (USh15,000, two to three hours), from where you can get a boda-boda into the park. Until recently the region has been volatile, so check the security situation before taking the eastern route; see (Click here) for more information.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

JOURNEY THROUGH KARAMOJA

The far less-travelled route up to Kidepo National Park heads through the wilds of Karamojaland in the eastern reaches of Uganda, a two- or three-day journey that takes you though some of the most stunning scenery in the country. You'll pass by timeless plains peppered with tall jagged peaks and fields ablaze with sunflowers. You'll also encounter the Karamojong people – the highlight of the journey for most – pastoral herders recognisable by their traditional dress (similar to the Maasai). Males often sport dapper Dr Seuss–style top hats with a feather stuck in it, and brandish a cattle stick and a mini wooden stool (used as a seat, headrest and, in recent times, to steady their rifle for target practice!).

Until very recently Karamoja has had a deserved reputation as a dangerous destination. In the past the Karamojong have been known to ambush highway travellers: sometimes to steal food or money, sometimes for vengeance and sometimes just for fun. Safety has improved markedly since disarmament of the Karamojong people by the Ugandan military in 2011/12 when 40,000 AK-47s were confiscated. The main concern these days comes not from the Karamojong, but from the occasional skirmishes between armed Turkana people from Kenya who cross the border looking to steal cattle.

While an increasing number of tourists are travelling through these days (all without incident), it's still of paramount importance to check security warnings before setting out (national park staff will have the latest details) and again at every step of the way. Things can change very fast out here.

If coming from Kampala, the trip involves heading to Kotido, a small, gritty, dusty town with a large NGO presence. Be sure to stop by the UWA office, next to the central roundabout, where you can you can get onward travel advice. The smartest accommodation option is Kotido Resort (%0783-933700; Lomukura St; s/d incl breakfast USh31,000/40,000) with quality rooms within a secure compound. Or try the more basic Skyline Hotel (%0785-907625; s/d USh21,000/26,000), just down the road past the UWA office, with small but clean rooms and friendly staff.

Moroto is another likely stopover (particularly if heading south from Kidepo). It's 112km south of Kotido – around a three-hour drive (USh20,000). It's the biggest and most prosperous of Karamoja towns, with leafy streets and many NGOs. Keep an eye out to see if the Karamoja Museum is opened. The Mt Moroto Hotel (%0392-897300; r incl breakfast from USh75,000-140,000, cottage USh250,000; W) is easily the best pick of accommodation with a spectacular setting at the foot of Mt Moroto. Gateway buses run from Kampala (eight hours, USh14,000) via Mbale.

The bus also stops in Soroti another major town that's an option to spend the night. The former government-run Soroti Hotel (%0705-408000, 0772-301154; hotelsoroti01@gmail.com; r incl breakfast from USh70,000; W) is a very good choice with large clean rooms, a bar and restaurant.

Kitgum

Pop 57,000

Those en route to Kidepo Valley National Park are likely to overnight in Kitgum, particularly those taking public transport. It suffered badly under the LRA’s reign of terror but it’s a surprisingly bustling little town, with a sizeable NGO population.

4Sleeping & Eating

Acholi PrideGUESTHOUSE

(%0772-687793; Ogwok Rd; r with/without bathroom USh28,000/13,000)

Next door to UWA, this is by far the best cheapie in town, with simple, clean and functional rooms.

Fugly'sGUESTHOUSE

(%0785-551911; fuglys.limited@gmail.com; Church Cres; incl breakfast s/d with bathroom USh80,000-160,000, without bathroom from USh50,000/100,000; s)

South African–owned Fugly’s is popular with NGOs and diplomats for its good range of rooms, plenty of lawn, small pool and BBQs in the evening. If it's full, try the similarly priced Bomah Hotel up the road.

8Information

UWA (%0777-328886; 4 Ogwok Rd; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) has an office here, and is a good source of information. There are several banks with ATMs, and an internet cafe across from Acholi Pride guesthouse.

8Getting There & Away

The Post Bus heads to Kampala daily, as does Homeland (USh30,000, seven hours) at 8am, noon and 4pm.

Those without transport who are wanting to get to Kidepo can take a truck to Karenga (USh20,000, 3½ hours) departing from 'Little Village' opposte Stanbic around 8am to 10am. The other option is to ask around for a special hire, or enquire with UWA to see whether they have a car heading to the park (which is unlikely). Otherwise UWA can arrange a vehicle for USh750,000 for an overnight return trip.

Enquire with UWA about the state of the road and whether it's passable, particularly during rainy season.

Gulu

Pop 150,000

Unless you’re here volunteering or en route to Kidepo Valley National Park, there’s no real reason to visit Gulu. It’s the largest town in northern Uganda and one of the hardest hit during the LRA conflict. It’s a town in transit and, in a sure sign of optimism, store shelves are full and people are arriving from elsewhere in the country hoping to cash in on the coming boom. There’s no shortage of wazunga about with a lot of NGOs in town.

1Sights

Taks CentreCULTURAL CENTRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0471-433906; www.takscentre.blogspot.co.uk; 3-5 Upper Churchill Dr)

It's worth popping into this happening community arts centre to see what's on, whether it be an art exhibition or cultural perfomance, or just stopping by for a meal. There's also banda accommodation for USh50,000, including breakfast.

4Sleeping

Happy Nest HotelHOTEL

(%0372-517584; 12 Coronation Rd; r without bathroom USh30,000, s/d incl breakfast USh35,000/45,000; iW)

Great budget hotel with bright sunny rooms. Located a few blocks from the bus station.

Hotel Pearl AfriqueHOTEL

(%0774-072277; pearlafrique@yahoo.com; Odongo Rd; s/d incl breakfast from USh55,000/67,000)

A comfortable, good-value choice with spotless rooms, some with bathtubs. Pricier rooms are worth it, with tons more space. There’s a restaurant and bar with live music on weekends.

Bomah HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0779-945063; www.bomahhotels.com; 8 Eden Rd; s/d/ste incl breakfast from USh128,000/184,000/533,000; aiWs)

In a leafy part of town, the colonial-style Bomah is Gulu's smartest option with sparkling rooms in a hotel block set over many levels. There’s also an excellent gym overlooking the pool and a popular thatched-roof restaurant (mains USh18,000 to USh22,000).

5Eating & Drinking

oSankofa CafeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0776-712198; Samuel Doe Rd; pizzas from 12,000; h8am-10pm; W)

Recently relocated to a more relaxed part of town, this chilled-out, open-air eatery caters primarily to NGO workers with excellent woodfired pizzas, salads and fresh juices.

Coffee HutCAFE

(Awich Rd; coffee USh4000, wraps USh8000; W)

Across from the bus terminal, this modern cafe is the place to go for excellent coffee, wi-fi, breakfast and tasty wraps.

Hotel BinenAFRICAN

(%0772-405038; Coronation Rd; mains from USh5000)

A good place to try northern Ugandan food such as malakwang (a sour, leafy green vegetable) and lapena (pigeon peas).

BJzPUB

(Eden Rd; h6.30pm-late)

Gulu’s most popular drinking spot for locals and expats alike, with plenty of seating areas and live music on weekends.

8Information

All major banks have branches here. There's a Uchumi supermarket for those heading to Kidepo.

8Getting There & Away

To get here your best option is the Gulu–Kampala Post Bus, which continues through to Kitgum. Otherwise buses and minivans run between Kampala and Gulu (USh25,000, five hours) all day long from the bus terminal in town. Much of this road is new and in excellent shape.

Those heading to Kidepo can get a bus to Kitgum (USh12,000, three hours). Minibus taxis to Masindi (USh15,000, four hours) are infrequent, so it may be quicker to take a minibus to Kigumba (USh15,000, 2½ hours), and transfer to Masindi (USh7000, 1½ hours). There are also buses to Arua (USh 20,000, four hours).

Buses to Juba (USh60,000, 10 hours) in South Sudan also depart from here.

Southwestern Uganda

If Uganda is the ‘pearl of Africa’, then southwestern Uganda is the mother of pearl. Easily the most beautiful part of the country, it’s a lush region of lakes, islands and mountains. And whether you’re here for adventure or respite, the southwest has got you covered in spades.

There are world-class treks all along the western Rift Valley, whether it be taking in the three-nation vistas from atop the Virunga volcanoes or undergoing a weeklong slog though the otherworldly moorlands on the snowcapped Rwenzoris. After the mountains, head to the water for an all out R&R assault on Lake Bunyonyi or the Ssese Islands.

The southwest is Uganda’s top wildlife-watching region and one of the world’s best places to spot primates. There are, of course, the mountain gorillas, living la vida languorous on the steep slopes of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Kibale National Park has what’s often described as the greatest variety of primates on the planet, and this is just one of the places you can track a habituated troop of chimpanzees as they groove through the treetops. The famous tree-climbing lions steal the show at Queen Elizabeth National Park, but the area’s largest and most diverse park is also full of other big wildlife and is one place certain to satisfy your safari urge.

Fort Portal

Pop 46,300

The fort may be gone, but this city is definitely a portal to places that offer sublime scenery, abundant nature and genuine adventure. Explore the beautiful Crater Lakes, track the chimps in Kibale National Park or drop into Semuliki National Park with its hot springs and central African wildlife.

Fort Portal is the heartland of a verdant tea-growing area and an important commercial centre. Its pleasant cool climate and central location make it a very convenient base from which to explore the area, so many people end up staying here for a few days.

Fort Portal

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Kabarole ToursB2

4Sleeping

Dutchess GuesthouseB2

2Rwenzori Travellers InnA2

5Eating

3Andrew & BrothersA2

4DutchessB2

5GardensB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

6Gluepot BarA2

7The ForestA2

Information

8Barclays BankA2

9Stanbic BankB1

Transport

10Coaster to HoimaA2

11Kalita Transport OfficeB2

12Link CoachesA2

13Shared-Taxis to Kamwenge & RwaihambaB1

1Sights & Activities

Tooro Botanical GardenGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-500630; www.toorobotanicalgardens.org; entry incl tour USh10,000; h8am-5pm)

These homegrown botanical gardens have a lot of well-signed indigenous plants and trees, as well as an organic farming project that grows herbs, flowers, trees, natural dyes, vegetables and medicinal plants. Admission includes a tour through the extensive grounds. Morning and late afternoon birdwatching is a highlight. The entry is opposite the Mountains of the Moon Hotel.

Tooro PalacePALACE

( GOOGLE MAP ; guide USh5000, camera USh20,000)

Looking down over the town from its highest hill, the palace is worth a visit purely for its 360-degree panoramic views. It’s the residence of King Oyo, who ascended the throne in 1995 at the age of three! A guide will give you a quick history of the kingdom and explain the ceremonies that take place on the hill, but you can’t go inside.

The circular structure was built in 1963, but fell into ruin after the abolition of the royal kingdoms by Idi Amin. It was restored in 2001 after Colonel Gadaffi met the king and donated the money for repairs.

Karambi Royal TombsTOMB

(Kasese Rd; admission USh5000; h8am-6pm)

These royal tombs 4km south of town make for a peaceful excursion. While from outside it’s not much to look at, if you can find the caretaker he’ll let you in for a look at the tombs, which house drums, spears and other personal effects of several of the Toro kings who are buried here. The cemetery outside is the resting place for various other royal family members.

Mugusu MarketMARKET

(Kasese Rd)

The Wednesday market, 11km south of Fort Portal, is the largest market in the west and attracts traders from all over, including many from the DRC selling fresh produce, clothing and bric-a-brac.

TTours

Kabarole ToursGUIDED TOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0483-422183; www.kabaroletours.com; 1 Moledina St; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

The best way to enjoy Fort Portal and its surrounds is to stop by the reputable Kabarole Tours – guides can take you anywhere in Uganda but focus on this little corner of the country. Popular day trips are the Crater Lakes, mountain-bike tours (guided or DIY), birdwatching, village walks, and treks in the foothills of the Rwenzoris. Check the website for other trips. Also has vehicle hire (sedan/4WD with driver US$70/120) and can arrange gorilla permits for both Uganda (US$30) and Rwanda ($US50).

4Sleeping

The best accommodation is found in the scenic outskirts of Fort Portal at Boma or the nearby Crater Lakes, but there are a few decent options in the town itself.

Fort Portal

Y.E.S. HostelHOSTEL

(Youth Encouragement Services; GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-780350; www.yesugandahostel.weebly.com; Lower Kakiiza Rd; camping USh10,000, r USh20,000; W)S

Run by a charity that supports orphans, this simple and friendly hostel is exceptional value with a peaceful pastoral setting. Rooms are configured as dorms (four to six beds per room) but usually you'll get a room to yourself. There’s a large kitchen (use is USh5000 per day), solar hot-water showers and wi-fi. It’s 3km from the centre; a boda-boda costs USh2000.

Golf Course View GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-485602; golfcourse71@gmail.com; Rwenzori Rd; incl breakfast camping USh10,000, s/d with bathroom USh50,000/60,000, without bathroom USh30,000/40,000)

Just outside of town, this well-priced, relaxed guesthouse has a faded colonial charm and spacious room with huge bathrooms. There’s a restaurant, bar and kitchen that guests are free to use. On a clear day there are lovely views of the Rwenzoris.

Rwenzori Travellers InnHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0483-422075; www.travellersinn.com; 16 Kyebambe Rd; s/d incl breakfast USh52,000/64,000; iW)

This two-storey hotel on the main thoroughfare is still a popular budget choice, though it seems to be coasting on its reputation these days. There's a good restaurant, two bars, an internet cafe and craft shop.

oRuwenzori View GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0483-422102; www.ruwenzoriview.com; Lower Kakiiza Rd; incl breakfast s/d with bathoom USh125,000/180,000, without bathroom USh65,000/99,000; W)

A blissful little guesthouse run by a Dutch–Anglo couple, with a refreshingly rural and lovely homely atmosphere. The rooms with attached bathrooms have their own patios overlooking the superb garden and Rwenzori mountain backdrop. Rates include a hearty breakfast, while its social dinners (USh35,000) served around the family table are an institution (nonguests also welcome). Birdwatching tours take place here in the mornings.

Dutchess GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0704-879474; www.dutchessuganda.com; 11 Mugusrusi Rd; incl breakfast s without bathroom US$25, s/d/tr with bathroom US$60/70/90; iW)

Above its fantastic restaurant, Dutchess offers excellent-value boutique rooms with plenty of flair, big beds, couches and snazzy bathrooms. Wi-fi, powerboard adaptors and safes for laptops will please the flashpackers.

Mountains of the Moon HotelHOTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0775-557840; www.mountainsofthemoon.co.ug; Nyaika Ave; s/d incl breakfast from US$120/140; iWs)

With its classic country-club feel, this professionally run resort has comfortable rooms set among peaceful, well-maintained grounds. Guests have access to a pool, gym, sauna and business centre. It has a nice restaurant and lively bar too.

Around Fort Portal

oKyaninga LodgeLODGE

(%0772-999750; www.kyaningalodge.com; Lake Kyaninga; s/d incl full board US$260/390; Ws)

The stunning Kyaninga Lodge features eight epic thatched-roof, log cottages that soar high upon stilts. Adjoined by a wooden walking platform, they are a spectacular sight – as are the views over Kyaninga Lake. The log cabins are spacious and private, with gleaming wooden floors and bathrooms with classy touches, such as clawfoot baths and marble countertops.

The restaurant also has amazing views, both from the outdoor deck and in the cosy Nepali teahouse–like restaurant. It's popular with nonguests for lunch (two-courses USh40,000, reservations required). There’s a swimming pool and sundeck too (nonguests can use it for USh10,000).

Kyaninga Lodge is located 10km northeast of Fort Portal – either a long trek or Ush5000 by boda-boda.

5Eating & Drinking

GardensAFRICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-694482; Lugard Rd; mains from USh9000; h8am-11pm)

This extremely popular restaurant overlooking the busy junction has a quality menu of foreign and local dishes including sandwiches, stews, pizza, firinda (mashed skinless beans) and lots of mochomo (barbecued meat). There’s also a good liquor list and a large African lunch buffet. Has excellent local coffee too.

Andrew & BrothersSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lugard Rd)

For those needing to buy their own provisions, this is the best of several supermarkets in town.

oDutchessINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dutchessuganda.com/restaurant; 11 Mugusrusi Rd; mains from USh10,000-30,000; h7am-11pm; W)

Easily Fort Portal's best place to eat (if not the entire country's), Dutchess has a creative menu featuring crocodile burgers, Flemish beef stew with Guiness and mash, and a selection of 46 excellent woodfired pizzas. They bake their own breads, make their own ice cream, stock European cheeses, fresh juices and Rwenzori coffee. Grab a chair indoors, or head out to the deck overlooking the garden.

The ForestBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rukidi III St; h1pm-late)

The most popular spot for a drink in Fort Portal, this Belgian-owned bar-club has outdoor seating and plenty of screens showing sports.

Gluepot BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kaboyo Rd; h10am-late)

In the centre of town, Gluepot bar has changed ownership yet continues as a lively upstairs drinking spot.

8Information

Lugard Rd, Fort’s main drag, has just about everything travellers may need including craft shops, internet cafes, post office and banks, including Stanbic Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lugard Rd) and Barclays Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bwamba Rd).

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Kalita ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0756-897920; www.kalita.co.ug) and Link ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0312-108830) have regular buses to Kampala (USh20,000, four hours). Both also head to Kasese (USh5000, two hours), but only Kalita makes the journey to Kabale (USh35,000, eight hours), via Katunguru (USh9000, 1½ hours) in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

The easiest way to Hoima (USh25,000, six hours) is the coaster ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) that goes at 7am every other day from in front of the Bata shoe store.

Minibus Taxi

There are regularish departures from the Taxi Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; Malibo Rd) to Kampala (USh18,000, four hours), Ntoroko (USh15,000, 2½ hours) and Bundibugyo (USh10,000, 1½ hours).

Minibuses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and shared-car taxis to Mbarara (USh20,000, 3½ hours), Kamwenge (for Kibale National Park; USh15,000, 1½ hours) and Rwaihamba (for Lake Nkuruba; USh5000, 45 minutes) leave from the intersection near where the main road crosses the river.

Special-Hire Taxis

Drivers hang around the vacant lot by the Continental Hotel and charge from USh100,000 per day if you aren’t travelling too far. Kabarole Tours has cars with driver for US$70 per day.

Crater Lakes

The landscape south of Fort Portal is dotted with picturesque crater lakes (some over 400m deep), all of which are ringed with improbably steep hills. It’s a great spot to settle in for a few days to explore the footpaths or cycle the seldom-used roads. Much of the land is cultivated, but there are still plenty of primates and birds at the lakeshores. Accommodation caters for all budgets and it’s increasingly popular for visitors to stay at the lakes before continuing on to Kibale National Park.

Most lodges and guesthouses organise walks through the local villages or to other area attractions (which have entrance fees if you go without a guide), such as Top of the World (admission USh5000) viewpoint on the highest hill behind Lake Nyamirima where you can see up to five lakes (depending on the air clarity).

The common wisdom is that the lakes are bilharzia-free, but we wouldn’t risk it. Also be aware that a lone hippo roams between Nyamirima, Nyinabulitwa, Nyabikere and, according to some, Nkuruba, so check with locals before plunging into the waters.

Lake Nkuruba

Probably the winner among the contenders for the title of most beautiful crater lake, Nkuruba is one of the few still surrounded by forest. Many monkeys, including black-and-white and red colobus, frolic here.

Minibuses and shared-car taxis from Fort Portal to Rwaihamba pass Lake Nkuruba (USh5000, 45 minutes). A special-hire will set you back about USh30,000, and a boda-boda around USh10,000.

4Sleeping

Lake Nkuruba Nature Reserve Community CampsiteBANDAS

(%0773-266067; www.nkuruba.com; Lake Nkuruba; camping USh10,000, s/d without bathroom USh36,000/52,000, cottage with bathroom USh72,000)

Lake Nkuruba Nature Reserve Community Campsite is the best place to stay on the lake (not to be confused with the imitating lodge next door) with funds going towards community projects. The camp is set on a hill with nice views and easy access to the lake. The bandas are basic, but clean and comfortable. The cottage is down on the lakeshore for more privacy.

Meals are available (USh7000 to USh13,000), as are walks around the area (15,000 per person). There are plenty of birds here; keep your eye out for the great blue turaco. There are also black-and-white colobus monkeys, and it is possible to take night tours to spot bushbabies. Bicycles (USh15,000 per day) and motorcycles are available for exploring the area on your own.

Lake Nyinabulitwa

A beautiful and tranquil spot, the mid-sized ‘Mother of Lakes’ is set back a bit off the road to Kibale National Park.

4Sleeping

Nyinabulitwa Country ResortLODGE

(%0712-984929; www.nyinabulitwaresort.com; Lake Nyinabulitwa; incl breakfast camping US$15, s/d/tr from US$70/120/180)

An intimate little place on the lake’s south shore with five bandas and an excellent camping ground. With a beautiful garden setting, it’s the perfect place to catch up on your journal. They run boat trips (US$10 per person) around the lake and can deliver you to a treehouse for bird- and primate-watching. Alternatively, you can paddle around yourself for free.

It’s 20km from Fort Portal, 1.5km off the main road just before Rweetera Trading Centre.

Lake Nyabikere

The ‘Lake of Frogs’ (you’ll hear how it got its name at night!) lies just off the road to Kibale National Park, 12km northwest of Kanyanchu visitor centre or 21km from Fort Portal. A recommended footpath circles the lake.

4Sleeping & Eating

CVK Lakeside ResortLODGE

(%0772-906549; www.cvklakeside.com; Lake Nyabikere; camping from USh15,000, s/d incl breakfast USh99,000/129,000; W)

The long-established CVK Lakeside Resort has wooden cabins overlooking the lake, but despite recent refurbishments it's well overpriced these days. There's a restaurant and canoes for hire. It's just past Rweetera Trading Centre.

Chimpanzee Forest GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

(%0772-486415; www.chimpanzeeforestguesthouse.com; incl full board guesthouse s/d US$85/125, cottages US$100/160)

Not actually on Lake Nyabikere, but near enough to snatch some views of it, is the wonderful Chimpanzee Forest Guesthouse. Set on manicured gardens overlooking tea plantations, there's a choice of banda cottages or rooms in the atmospheric 1950s colonial building with a fireplace and superb collection of antique books on Africa.

Food here is quality and they grow some of their own vegetables. Birdwatching and guided walks are also on the cards. The entrance is 300m south of the Kibale National Park office on the Fort Portal Rd.

Rweteera Safari Park & Tourist CampingLODGE

(%0776-862153; www.rweteerasafaripark.com; Lake Nyabikere; camping per person US$10, tented camping s/d incl breakfast US$35/50)

The new Rweteera Safari Park gets good feedback, with simple, comfortable tent camping by the lake. Any minibus (USh5000) heading south from Fort Portal can drop you right at the entrance.

Lake Nyinambuga

Emblazoned on Uganda’s USh20,000 note, picturesque Lake Nyinambuga is a worthwhile stop with some excellent photo ops.

4Sleeping

Ndali LodgeLODGE

(%0772-221309; www.ndalilodge.com; Lake Nyinambuga; s/d incl full board US$535/720; iWs)

This luxurious, colonial-style lodge has a stunning location on a ridge above the lake. Its elegant (but well overpriced) cottages face west towards Mwamba and Rukwanzi lakes with the Rwenzori Mountains looming on the horizon. Day trippers should aim for a lunch stop here with homely toasted sandwiches served on a tranquil porch overlooking the lake.

Lake Kifuruka

Perhaps slighty less dazzling than the other crater lakes, Lake Kifuruka is beautiful nevertheless.

4Sleeping

Lake Kifuruka Eco-CampLODGE

(%0772-562513; www.ecolodge-uganda.com; Lake Kifuruka; camping USh10,000, bandas s/d without bathroom USh20,000/40,000, with bathroom USh40,000/70,000)

Located 2km southwest of Rwaihamba this camp's log cabin bandas are basic but clean, and proceeds go to funding local schools. It’s a good spot for those seeking a more authentic local experience and will suit those wanting to do a stint of volunteer teaching. They can also arrange village homestays.

Other activities include canoe hire (USh10,000 per three hours) and walks to visit all of the eight lakes (USh30,000 per person) or Mahoma Falls (entry USh15,000, guide USh10,000). Staff are friendly and meals are available from USh7000.

Lake Lyantonde

Just opposite Lake Kifuruka is pretty Lake Lyantonde.

4Sleeping

Papaya Lake LodgeLODGE

(%0793-388277; www.papayalakelodge.com; Lake Lyantonde; s/d incl full board US$350/500; Ws)

An upmarket choice is the stunning new Papaya Lake Lodge with banda cottages all featuring balconies looking out to the water. It has arty touches throughout, and a memorable swimming pool perched high above everything, as well as a lakeside bar.

Lake Kasenda

Little Lake Kasenda isn’t at the end of the road, but it sure feels like it.

4Sleeping

Planet Ruigo Beach ResortGUESTHOUSE

(%0701-370674; incl breakfast camping USh10,000, s/d with bathroom USh45,000/55,000, r without bathroom USh25,000)

Planet Ruigo Beach Resort sits right down on the shore of Lake Kasenda looking up at the steep hills on the other side. Considering how few people come here it’s rather surprising how well maintained the three self-contained bandas are. The ‘treehouse’ is secluded on the other side of the lake, and is great for those who want solitude.

Despite the name, there’s no actual beach, but you can relax by the lake on its pleasant lawn. There’s plenty of thick forest for walking and you can easily wander over to nearby lakes Mulusi and Murigamire. Birdwatching and forest walks can be arranged, but meals are a bit pricey.

Ruigo Beach is 35km south of Fort Portal and 11km south of Rwaihamba, from where a boda-boda will cost USh5000. You can drive here in about one hour: call to ask if the road is still in good enough shape for a car to make it. A special-hire taxi from Fort Portal should cost around USh80,000, but drivers are unlikely to know where it is.

Kihingami Wetlands Sanctuary

Kihingami Wetlands SanctuaryRESERVE

(%0779-775790; h8am-5pm)

This eco-tourism site, set up with the help of Fort Portal’s Kabarole Tours, preserves an attractive 13-sq-km valley that otherwise would have been gobbled up by the surrounding tea plantations. Despite its small size, a remarkable 384 bird species have been spotted here, including Jameson’s wattle-eye and white-spotted flufftail. There’s also a good chance of seeing red colobus monkeys and spotted-necked otters.

Local guides lead forest walks (USh20,000 per person) and birdwatching walks (USh20,000 per person), and for an extra USh5000 you can plant a tree. You can also tour a fair-trade tea factory (US$45 per group of 10 people) at 9am and 2pm.

Kihingami is 15km east of Fort Portal, just before the Sebitoli section of Kibale National Park. Take any minibus (USh2000, 30 minutes) heading east.

Amabeere Cave

Amabeere CaveCAVE

(admission incl guide USh25,000; h8am-6pm)

The water dripping from the roof of this small cave is milky white, hence the name Amabeere (‘Breasts’). Most of the rock formations are broken, but it’s fun to walk behind the waterfall covering it and past the wall of vines along the adjacent ridge.

It’s 8km northwest of Fort Portal, signposted 1.5km off the Bundibugyo road; minibus taxis are USh3000 and take 30 minutes.

Kibale National Park

%0483

The 795-sq-km Kibale National Park (%0483-425335; adult/child US$40/20) is a lush tropical rainforest, believed to have the highest density of primates in Africa. It's most famous for being one of the best places in the world to track wild chimpanzees, with five groups habituated to human contact. It's home to 13 primate species, with rare red colobus and L’Hoest’s monkeys the other highlights.

Larger but rarely seen residents include bushbucks, sitatungas, buffaloes, leopards and quite a few forest elephants. There are also an incredible 250 species of butterfly that live here. While on the smaller side, Kibale also has a great bird list with 372 species, but keen birdwatchers may want to bypass it and spend their time in Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary or Kihingami Wetland where open-canopy and wetland species can be seen alongside most of the same forest species living in Kibale National Park.

The park visitor centre is at Kanyanchu, 35km southeast of Fort Portal.

KIBALE NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

The best place to track chimpanzees in the wild in Uganda; excellent birdwatching in nearby Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary.

When to Go

Year-round; for Chimpanzee Habituation Experience visit low season months of March, April, May and November.

Practicalities

Regular minibuses to Kamwenge from Fort Portal. Prebooking chimpanzee permits in Kampala is recommended.

Budget Tips

While US$150 for chimpanzee tracking may seem expensive, bear in mind these fees include your park permit, and offer a more affordable alternative to visiting the gorillas. Public transport and inexpensive accommodation are available.

2Activities

Chimpanzee Tracking

With around a 90% chance of finding them on any particular day, Kibale National Park is undoubtedly the most popular place to track chimpanzees in Uganda. There's a morning (8am) and afternoon (2pm) departure, and while there are plenty of hills along the trails, the walking isn’t difficult if you’re in shape. Children aged 12 and under aren’t permitted.

While you’ve a good chance of being issued a chimp permit at the park, it occasionally gets booked out during the holiday season, so reservations at the UWA office in Kampala are a good idea. Regular trackers get just one hour with the playful primates, but those on the Chimpanzee Habituation Experience (1/2/3 days US$220/440/660; h6am-6pm Mar, Apr, May & Nov) can spend the whole day with them.

Note that chimpanzees are in the process of being habituated in the Sebitoli sector, 12km east of Fort Portal, with permits expected to be issued there from late 2015.

Nature Walks

You’ll be very lucky to see chimps on a nature walk (US$30 per person, excluding park permit) but as nearly 1500 dwell here, you never know your luck, and there’s a good chance you’ll hear some scamper off through the treetops. With frequent sightings of owls, civets and the 12cm-long Demidoff’s dwarf galago, night walks (US$40) can be very rewarding.

WORTH A TRIP

BIGODI WETLAND SANCTUARY

Bigodi Wetland SanctuaryWILDLIFE RESERVE

(%0772-886865; www.bigodi-tourism.org; h7.30am-5pm)

Located 6km south of the Kibale National Park visitor centre at Kanyanchu (no park permit is required), Bigodi was established by a local development organisation to protect the 4-sq-km Magombe Swamp that's home to around 200 species of birds (highlights include papyrus gonolek, white-winged warbler and great blue turaco). It's also good for spotting butterflies and primates, with eight different species here, including grey-cheeked mangabey. Three-hour guided walks (USh40,000 per person, including binoculars and gumboots) depart on demand.

Other activities available include village walks (USh30,000 per person), Saturday-afternoon basket-weaving demonstrations, dance and drama performances, and fun interpretive meals (USh15,000 per person; book in advance) where your hosts share the stories behind the local food they serve you. Volunteer opportunities are also available. Any shared taxis (USh8000, 45 minutes) between Fort Portal and Kamwenge can drop you there.

4Sleeping

You can easily visit Kibale while spending the night in Fort Portal or at the Crater Lakes.

oKibale Forest CampLODGE

(%0312-294894; www.naturelodges.biz/kibale-forest-camp; incl breakfast camping US$10, s/d lazy camping US$30/45, tented camping US$90/115)

Nature Lodges once again succeeds in bringing luxury standards at affordable prices. The atmospheric camp is hidden away in the forest, offering tented camping with stone floors and porches, or ready-made lazy camping for the budget minded. There's also a safari-style restaurant in an attractive thatched banda. It's on the outskirts of Bigodi, 1km down a side road off the Kamwenge road.

Tinka's HomestayGUESTHOUSE

(%0772-468113; per person incl full board USh50,000)

Tinka's has recently upgraded to a larger, more modern house, but it's still perfect for those seeking more of a homestay experience. It's located 6km from Kibale HQ, right near the visitor centre of Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, convenient if you're here to see birds as well as chimps.

oChimps' NestLODGE

(%0774-669107; www.chimpsnest.com; incl breakfast r with shared bathroom US$25, s/d cottage US$90/120, treehouse US$150/190; i)

This stunner of a lodge straddles Kibale Forest and Magombe Swamp. While its basic rooms are perfect for budget travellers, and the rustic cottages with outdoor showers are charming, take the treehouse if you can. It’s perched up in the canopy among the birds and monkeys, with great 360-degree treetop views right from the bed. It's 4km down a rough road from Nkingo.

Primate LodgeLODGE

(%0414-267153; www.ugandalodges.com/primate; Kanyanchu; camping without breakfast US$14, incl breakfast s/d treehouse US$49/64, safari tent US$113/128, cottage US$266/414; W)

Inside the park next to the UWA headquarters, this deluxe lodge is perfectly located for those tracking chimps. The lovely cottages have stone floors and verandahs, while safari tents come with hardwood floors. Brave souls can take the rickety treehouse secluded in the forest 800m from the lodge, which overlooks an elephant wallow; if you’re very lucky you might see one. Discounts available in low season.

Sebitoli

In the northern end of the park along Kampala Rd, this seldom visited part of the forest will change when the chimpanzees who live here are fully habituated, which is expected to occur in the next few years.

Sebitoli Forest CampLODGE

(%0782-761512; camping USh15,000, s/d USh32,000/42,000)

This UWA-run camp has a relaxing location surrounded by trees with black-and-white colobus monkeys. Rooms here are great value, with a canteen and friendly staff.

Jacaranda Hilltop GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

(%0483-422183; Kasunga; s/d incl breakfast USh55,000/65,000)

Immersed within the tea plantations, this atmospheric guesthouse is located inside a colonial building that was the former residence of the tea-estate manager. Its simple rooms have a relaxed rural feel. Bikes are available for hire (per day US$10), perfect for exploring the surrounding countryside. It's well placed on the fringes of Kibale for walks into the park; and chimpanzee tracking once they're habituated.

It's 5km off Kampala Rd; any bus plying the Fort Portal route can drop you at the sign.

8Getting There & Away

Minibuses to Kamwenge from Fort Portal pass the park visitor centre (USh7000, one hour). For Sebitoli, take any minibus (USh2000, 30 minutes) heading east from Fort Portal.

Semuliki National Park

The Semliki Valley is a little corner of Congo poking into Uganda. The only tropical lowland rainforest in East Africa is a continuation of the huge Ituri Forest in the DRC and forms a link between the heights of East Africa and the vast, steaming jungles of central Africa. The Semuliki National Park (%0382-276424; adult/child US$35/5) covers 220 sq km of the valley floor and harbours some intriguing wildlife, though sightings are difficult due to the thick vegetation. It's most famous for its primordial hot springs.

Birdwatchers come to look for over 440 birds, particularly the central African species, such as the Congo serpent eagle, residing at their eastern limits. At least 133 of the 144 Guinea–Congo forest species have been recorded here and nearly 50 species are found nowhere else in East Africa. There are nine primate species, including the De Brazza’s monkey, and many mammals not found elsewhere in Uganda, such as Zenker’s flying mice. Both the resident elephants and buffaloes are the forest variety, smaller than their savannah brethren.

SEMULIKI NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Sulphur hot springs, a feel for Congo tropical lowland rainforest, primate walks, birdwatching

When to Go

Year-round

Practicalities

Minibuses and pick-ups head from Fort Portal to Bundibugyo, near park headquarters. There’s only basic accommodation here, so day trips are a popular way to see the park.

Budget Tips

Public transport, UWA campsites and canteen meals make Semuliki an affordable park to visit, but bear in mind visits to the hot springs costs an additional $30 per person on top of park entry.

1Sights & Activities

Hot Springs

Most people come here to see Semuliki's two boiling sulphur hot springs. Entry to the springs costs US$30 per person (excluding park entry), which includes a guided walk to them.

The female hot spring is where women from the Bamaga clan would make sacrifices to the gods before bathing naked in the natural springs. Its soupy atmosphere has a distinct prehistoric feel, and features a small burbling geyser. Your guide can demonstrate the water’s temperatures by boiling an egg – available from the information centre for USh500 each; though with the stench of sulphur it’s probably the last thing you feel like eating.

A half-hour’s walk from the 'female' spring, the male hot spring is where the men carried out their sacrificial rituals. It is accessed via a muddy forest trail with plenty of primates and birdlife along the way. It leads to a verdant clearing of swamp where a boardwalk passes through sweeping grass and squawking frogs to the hot spring located in a 12m pool.

Walking Trails

Walking options include the 11km Kirimia Trail, which is a full-day romp through the heart of the forest and the favoured destination of birdwatchers, and the somewhat shorter but hillier Red Monkey Trail. Both end at the Semliki River, which forms the border between Uganda and the DRC.

4Sleeping

Bumaga CampsiteCAMPGROUND

(%0772-367215; camping USh15,000, banda USh80,000-120,000)

Bumaga is a pleasant grassy campsite on the edge of the forest with several bandas, and a campsite with showers and latrines. There’s a lovely elevated dining area, but you may need to bring your own food. You’ll need to arrange accommodation at the UWA office at the Sempaya gate. The campsite is located 2km past the gate.

Ntoroko Game Lodge LODGE

(%0756-000598; www.ntorokogamelodge.com; s/d incl breakfast US$202/304; iW)

Sitting directly on the shores of Lake Albert these thatched-roof tented camps have wooden floors and patios overlooking the water. There's a good selection of activities including walks, community visits and biking, as well as trips into the park.

8Getting There & Away

Semuliki National Park is just 52km from Fort Portal, but plan on taking two hours to reach it by car in the dry season.

There are regular minibuses and pick-ups between Fort Portal and Bundibugyo that pass the park (USh12,000, three hours). The last one heads to Fort Portal around 4pm, so if you leave early and hustle on the trails, you can see the hot springs and hike the Red Monkey Trail as a day trip. You can also catch Kalita Transport’s Kampala–Bundibugyo bus in Fort Portal departing at approximately 5pm for USh12,000; it returns to Fort Portal around 5am.

Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve

The Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve (%0772-649880; adult/child US$35/5) is the oldest protected natural area in Uganda, having first been set aside in 1926. Once one of the best-stocked and most popular wildlife parks in East Africa, it suffered significant poaching during the civil war years and after the war with Tanzania.

Wildlife is recovering and you may encounter waterbucks, reedbucks, bushbucks, chimpanzees, pygmy hippos, buffaloes, leopards, elephants and hyenas. A number of lions have also recently returned to the reserve, most likely refugees from the conflict in the DRC.

2Activities

Chimp Tracking

Likely the best wildlife experience in the park is the morning chimp tracking (which UWA prefers to call a primate walk; per person US$30). The hiking is more difficult than in Kibale and you’re less likely to encounter chimps (around a 30% chance), but if you do, the thinner forest means your views are superior. These are rare ‘dry-habitat chimps’ that spend considerable time in the savannah and so walk upright more often than the others.

Wildlife Drives

With a line of mountains behind it, the savannah scenery from the main road is often superb, but the wildlife viewing along it isn’t: Ugandan kob and baboons are the only sure things. Best to get a ranger (US$20) from the park headquarters to lead you down other tracks.

Nature Walks

Rangers lead nature walks (per person US$30) in various places around the park, including Nyaburogo Gorge behind the headquarters (which has lots of primates and butterflies), along the shore of Lake Albert and – via a steep climb to great views atop the mountains – on the southeastern edge of the park.

Boat Trips

A Lake Albert boat trip will likely reveal hippo and crocodiles, but it’s mostly undertaken by birdwatchers for the near-guaranteed shoebill stork sightings. Semliki Safari Lodge charges US$180 for a half-day on the water. You could also arrange the trip with fishers in Ntoroko village for about half the price, in a boat about half the size.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ntoroko has some basic guesthouses but they are not recommended and attract some shady characters; if you try them, don’t leave any valuables behind in your room.

UWA CampCAMPGROUND

(%0772-911499; camping USh15,000, banda without bathroom USh40,000)

The small UWA campsite at Ntoroko is on the shores of Lake Albert, meaning you often have hippos joining you in the evening. There are three bandas without bathrooms and the canteen can cook you meals.

Semliki Safari LodgeLODGE

(%0414-251182; www.wildplacesafrica.com; s/d incl full board & activities US$455/700; Ws)

One of the first luxury lodges in Uganda, here there are eight luxury tents set under thatched bandas, all with sumptuous Persian carpets and four-poster beds. While it’s well overpriced for what you get, the prices include all food, alcohol and park activities.

8Getting There & Away

Semliki Safari Lodge can arrange flights (one-way US$270, return US$450) from Entebbe airport.

Car

From Fort Portal, head west toward Bundibugyo and then fork right at Karugutu, 27km from Fort Portal; the headquarters is 3km further on. A car can handle travel inside the reserve, but ask about conditions between Fort Portal and Karugutu as the road can be quite poor.

Minibus & Truck

Connecting Fort Portal to Ntoroko (USh12,000, three hours), minibuses and trucks can drop you at the park headquarters. You could also get one of the more frequent Bundibugyo-bound vehicles and get off at Karugutu (USh6000, 1½ hours), to continue on from there.

Kasese

Pop 71,700

The long-closed Kilembe Copper Mines once brought great prosperity to this drab, dusty town, and the now-defunct train line from Kampala used to deposit a steady stream of visitors here. But these days Kasese seems to have passed its use-by date and the only reason travellers come here is to organise a trip to the Rwenzori Mountains.

Nearby Kilembe, 12km away in the foothills of the Rwenzoris, is an interesting town to walk through with old mining equipment and company housing.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are some fairly well-stocked supermarkets for those heading up to the mountains, including Titi’s (Rwenzori Rd), ASWT (Margarita St) and City Top (Rwenzori Rd).

White House HotelGUESTHOUSE

(%0782-536263; whitehse_hotel@yahoo.co.uk; 46 Henry Bwambale Rd; s/d without bathroom USh21,000/35,000, r with bathroom USh40,000; iW)

A mix of cleanliness and good prices makes White House one of Kasese’s most popular budget options. The garden restaurant next door is the best in town for a feed and cold beer (mains from USh15,000).

Hotel MargheritaHOTEL

(%0483-444015; www.hotel-margherita.com; s/d/ste/apt incl breakfast from US$70/95/140/190; paiW)

Though it’s the fanciest option around, Hotel Margherita’s long silent corridors and faded '70s decor make you feel like you’re stepping onto the set of The Shining. It has a delightful setting looking out towards the Rwenzoris, and some rooms feature amazing views. It’s located 3km out of town on the road up to Kilembe. It has an excellent restaurant too.

8Information

Stanbic BankBANK

(Stanley St)

BarclaysBANK

(cnr Margherita St & Rwenzori Rd)

8Getting There & Away

The quickest connection to Kampala (USh20,000, five hours) is the Link or Kalita bus via Fort Portal (USh4000, one hour).

Getting to Queen Elizabeth National Park is straightforward. Catch any Mbarara-bound vehicle to Katunguru (USh4000, one hour).

Rwenzori Mountains National Park

The legendary, mist-covered Rwenzori Mountains are presumed to be the Mountains of the Moon, described in AD 350 by Ptolemy, who proclaimed them to be the source of the Nile River. Because of both its beauty and biodiversity, Unesco named Rwenzori Mountains National Park (www.ugandawildlife.org/explore-our-parks/parks-by-name-a-z/rwenzori-mountains-national-park; adult/child $35/5) a World Heritage Site. It’s the tallest mountain range in Africa and several of the peaks are permanently covered by ice and glaciers. The three highest peaks in the range are Margherita (5109m), Alexandria (5083m) and Albert (5087m), all on Mt Stanley, the third highest mountain in Africa.

The mountain range, which isn’t volcanic, stretches about 110km by 50km wide and is a haven for an extraordinary number of rare plants and animals, and new examples of both are still being discovered. Two mammals are endemic to the range, the Rwenzori climbing mouse and the Rwenzori red duiker, as are 19 of the 241 known bird species. There’s thick tropical rainforest on the lower slopes transitioning to the bizarre afro-alpine moorland on higher reaches.

1Trekking the Rwenzoris

Back in Uganda’s heyday, the Rwenzoris were as popular with travellers as Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya, but this is definitely a more demanding expedition. The Rwenzoris (known locally as the 'Rain Maker') have a well-deserved reputation for being very wet and muddy, with trails that are often slippery and steep. There are treks available to suit all levels and needs, from one-day jaunts in the forest to 10-day treks with technical climbs. The six-day treks are the most popular.

Two companies offer trekking in the Rwenzoris: the popular Rwenzori Trekking Services (RTS; %in Kampala 0774-114499, in Kilembe 0774-199022; www.rwenzoritrekking.com), which looks after the Kilembe Trail, and the long-established, community-owned Rwenzori Mountaineering Services (RMS; %Kampala 0784 308425, Kasese 0751-684363, Nyakalengija Office 0784-327754; www.rwenzorimountaineeringservices.com; Rwenzori Rd, Kasese) based in Kasese, which arranges treks from Nyakalengija. The Muhoma Nature Trail is open to all, but Ruboni Community Campsite can assist with arranging guides, as can UWA.

The best times to trek are from late December to mid-March and from mid-June to mid-August, when there’s less rain. Even at these times, the higher reaches are often enveloped in mist, though this generally clears for a short time each day. April and October are the wettest months.

Guides, who are compulsory, even if you’ve conquered the seven summits, are on perpetual standby so you can book in the morning and leave the same day.

Walking trails and huts are in pretty good shape, particularly on the Kilembe trail, where huts use polynum insulation to make life more comfortable. There are wooden pathways over the bogs and bridges over the larger rivers lessening the impact of walkers on the fragile environment.

Note trekkers should check their travel insurance policy carefully to ensure they're covered for adventure/mountaineering activities above 4000m.

Clothing & Equipment

The routes to the peaks on Mt Stanley require the use of ice-axes, ropes and crampons (depending on conditions you may have to rope in for Mts Baker and Speke), but you don’t need mountaineering experience to reach the summits if your guide is experienced – the catch is that not all of them are. From all reports, the guides from Rwenzori Trekking Services (RTS) are the most reliable. No special equipment is required for a trek if you don’t go onto the ice or snow (and if you do, this gear can be hired at the trailhead), but bring plenty of warm, waterproof clothing (temperatures often drop below zero). You’ll also want a good sleeping bag. The most important item is a good, broken-in pair of trekking boots to get you over the slippery rock slabs, which can be quite treacherous at times. Rubber boots are also essential for the bogs – so ensure these are available. A small day pack is useful as your porters will travel at their own pace.

Before attempting a trek in the Rwenzoris get a copy of the Guide to the Rwenzori (2006) by Henry Osmaston, which covers routes, natural history and all other aspects of the mountains. A good companion to Osmaston’s opus is Rwenzori Map & Guide, an excellent large-scale contour map by Andrew Wielochowski.

Safety

Be aware of the dangers of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS, altitude sickness), in which symptoms can manifest above 3000m. In extreme cases it can be fatal. If exhibiting severe symptoms (headaches, hallucinations, and breathlessness) you'll need to descend immediately to the camp below. To reduce likelihood of AMS it's best to take the first day easy to acclimatise and not rush up. Drinking plenty of water is also essential.

RWENZORI MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Trekking along Africa’s tallest mountain range; ever-changing vegetation zones; snow-capped peaks.

When to Go

Year-round, but expect rain daily; late December to mid-March and mid-June to mid-August are less muddy.

Practicalities

Treks are booked at the park through Rwenzori Trekking Services (for the Kilembe Trail) and Rwenzori Mountaineering Services (for the Nyakalengija Trail). Kasese is best accessed either from Fort Portal or Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Budget Tips

You can only trek with a trekking company so keeping costs down is tricky, but packing your own equipment can save you money. Shorter treks require less of an outlay and still provide the Rwenzori experience; otherwise, hikes in Rwenzori's foothills don't require park permits.

4Sleeping & Eating

Rwenzori Trekkers HostelHOSTEL

(Rwenzori Backpackers; %0774-199022; www.backpackers.co.ug/rwenzoribackpack.html; Kyanjuki; camping USh15,000, dm USh25,000, s/d USh40,000/60,000; p)

Run by Rwenzori Trekking Services, this scenic and peaceful option is located in Kyanjuki just above Kilembe, 12km outside Kasese, a perfect starting point if you plan on tackling this side of the Rwenzori. Rooms are in restored miners’ housing and are slightly run-down with peeling linoleum floors, but they're fine for the price.

The restaurant has a great trekking menu comprising T-bone steaks, Aussie meat pies, pizzas and a good vegetarian selection. They do some excellent work in the community, and also offer village walks and cultural performances.

Ruboni Community CampsiteHUT

(%0752-503445; www.rubonicamp.com; camping with/without tent US$5/15, r without bathroom per person US$20, banda per person US$25)S

This community-run place down the road from Nyakalengija is at the base of the hill just outside the park boundary, with an attractive setting and comfortable lodging. All profits go towards a health centre, tree planting projects and more. They also offer guided walks into the hills outside the park, drumming lessons and traditional dance performances.

oEquator Snow LodgeLODGE

(%0414-258273; www.geolodges.com; s/d incl full board US$132/242)

Conveniently located for the Central (and Mahoma) Trail, this luxury mountain lodge at the foot of the Rwenzoris has large cottages surrounded by plenty of forest and views from its porch. There's a heap of trekking opportunities in the immediate area, even if you're not keen on a hardcore mountaineering expedition. All up, excellent value.

TREKKING ROUTES IN THE RWENZORIS

The peaks are accessed via two routes: the Kilembe Trail and the long-standing Central Circuit that starts from Nyakalengija village. For those short on time there's also the two- to three-day Muhoma Nature Trail, a 28km circuit set up by Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) in 2012, that's a shortened version of the Central Circuit.

All prices include guides, porters, accommodation and rescue fees. However they don't include park fees, which are an additional US$35 per day.

FROM KILEMBE

Kilembe Trail is a hit among trekkers. Organised through Rwenzori Trekking Services, this company has both lifted the standards and breathed new energy into trekking in the Rwenzoris. While treks to the main peaks are further away compared with the Nyakalengija route, it receives glowing reviews for its professional guides, quality equipment and safety measures, as well as comfortable mountain huts along the route.

For groups of one to two people, prices per person start at US$40 for one-day treks, US$190 for two days, US$330 for three days, $US470 for four days, US$610 for five days, US$790 for six days and US$1028 for nine-day treks to Margherita Peak. Prices include guides, porters, equipment, food and accommodation, but sleeping bags, waterproof items and bags are extra.

A range of tailor-made treks are offered, from technical climbs to leisurely strolls in the forested foothills. The most popular is the six-day trek to Weismann’s Peak, which is at times steep and strenuous; there are no ropes or climbing equipment involved. During April to May and September to October, it’s common to experience snowfalls.

TO WEISMANN’S PEAK: DAY 1

Starting from Rwenzori Trekkers Hostel in Kilembe, you'll pass scenic villages and coffee plantations en route to the trailhead. From here it's a relatively easy three-hour trek that takes you through untouched montane forest that’s home to abundant birdlife. Continuing over several river crossings and ridge climbs, keep an eye and ear out for chimps, before you reach the bamboo forest that leads to the first overnight stop at Sine Camp (2596m).

DAY 2

Day 2 involves a four- to six-hour trek beginning in bamboo forest before hitting heather zones in a series of climbs and descents that lead through misty valleys looking out to Queen Elizabeth National Park, past moss-covered rocks, spongy grassy escarpments and giant heather trees draped in lichen. You'll spend the night at Mutinda Camp (3688m). The day also include an acclimatisation hike up to magnificent Mutinda Lookout (3975m) for views of Weissman's Peak, often coverved in snow.

DAY 3

Prepare to get muddy as you trudge through boggy moorland, through Namusangi Valley with waterfalls and views of Mutinda Peak, and hit the alpine zone. It's a four- to six-hour trek ending at Bugata Camp (4062m) overlooking Lake Kopello and Weismann’s Peak.

DAY 4

A five-hour trek through scenic Namusangi valley, with the reward of reaching the top of Weissman's Peak (sometimes requiring ropes in inclement weather). There's also the option of scaling Stella Peak (4620m) before returning to spend the night at Bugata Camp.

DAY 5

Your descent begins as you push down to Kiharo (3460m) or Samalira (3170m) past magnificent giant lobelia plants, giant groundsel, luxuriant grass and spongey moss for a memorable three- to four-hour trek.

DAY 6

The last day of the trek takes you down through rocky valleys with flowing streams, sections of bamboo and montane forest, arriving back at Kilembe mid-afternoon.

FROM NYAKALENGIJA

The Central Circuit that starts from Nyakalengija village is arranged through Rwenzori Mountaineering Services. Long-established RMS has received some negative feedback for using dodgy equipment and failing to maintain huts.

The standard six-day, five-night Central Circuit trek costs US$680 per person. It’s US$780 if you want to summit Margherita Peak. Extra days cost US$120 and extra peaks are US$150. You can either arrange your own food or pay US$120 for RMS to buy it. Gas cookers can be hired for US$60, or you can hire a cook for US$20 per day. Prices do not include equipment, but they do have the following for hire at US$25 a pop: climbing boots, crampons, harnesses, ice-axes, ropes, rubber boots and sleeping bags.

The Central Trail loops back between the peaks of Mts Baker and Stanley.

DAY 1

Nyakalengija (1646m) to Nyabitaba Camp (2650m) is a fairly easy walk, taking about five hours. There are many primates and some forest elephants around.

DAY 2

The trail drops to cross the Bujuku River and then begins a long ascent on a rough, muddy path that eventually enters the amazing Afro-alpine zone just before arriving at John Mate Camp (3505m). At least seven hours, this section is the most difficult.

DAY 3

On this three- to five-hour trek you'll slog, often knee-deep, through Lower and Upper Bigo Bogs (there’s a boardwalk on part of this path) before things dry out and you reach lovely Lake Bujuku, plopped between Mts Baker, Stanley and Speke. After more mud you reach Bujuku Camp (3962m), the base for climbing Mt Speke. There’s usually time to check out the Irene Lakes or, if you want a more alpine experience, continue for three more difficult hours and sleep at Elena Camp (4541m), the primary starting point for ascending Mt Stanley.

DAY 4

The trail cuts through a profusion of giant groundsel before crossing Scott Elliot Pass (4372m), the highest point on the Central Circuit. There are great views of Margherita Peak and the Elena and Savoia glaciers. The circuit weaves though boulders at the foot of Mt Baker and passes the twin Kitandara lakes before reaching lakeside Kitandara Hut (4023m).

DAY 5

Begin with a long climb to Freshfield Pass (4282m) and then it’s all downhill to the scenically set Guy Yeoman Hut (3505m). On the descent, you pass through a bog to the attractive Kabamba rock shelter and waterfall. It's at least five hours, but on this muddy, slippery stage it often takes longer.

DAY 6

The start of the trail descends very steeply and follows the Mubuku River down for five hours to Nyabitaba Hut. It’s possible to spend the night here but by this point almost everyone is ready for a warm shower and a cold beer and continues the last two to three hours back to the bottom. Keep in mind that about an hour from Guy Yeoman Hut there’s an unbridged river crossing, and when the river is high it can be dangerous. Your guides will surely want to get over it as fast as possible, but if you have any reservations about this, wait for the river level to fall.

8Getting There & Away

Nyakalengija is 25km from Kasese, though minibuses only run as far as Ibanda (USh5000, one hour). From here you can take a boda-boda to Nyakalengija (USh4000) or Ruboni Community Campsite (USh3500). Chartering a special-hire taxi from Kasese will set you back USh50,000.

For Kilembe (USh4000, 30 minutes), take one of the frequent shared-car taxis from near the Shell petrol station on Kilembe Rd. A special-hire taxi will cost around USh25,000 and boda-boda around USh7000.