Queen Elizabeth National Park

Covering 1978 sq km, scenic Queen Elizabeth National Park (%0782-387805; www.queenelizabethnationalpark.com; adult/child US$40/20; h6.30am-7pm, park gates 7am-7pm) is one of the most popular parks in Uganda. Few reserves in the world can boast such a high biodiversity rating. With landscape including savannah, bushland, wetlands and lush forests, the park is inhabited by 96 species of mammals, including healthy numbers of hippos, elephants, lions and leopards as well as chimps and hyenas. The remote Ishasha sector, in the far south of the park, is famous for its tree-climbing lions. There’s also an amazing 611 bird species here; more than found in all of Great Britain.

Back in the 1970s, with its great herds of elephants, buffaloes, kob, waterbucks, hippos and topis, Queen Elizabeth was one of the premier safari parks in Africa. But during the troubled 1980s, Ugandan and Tanzanian troops (which occupied the country after Amin’s demise) did their ivory-grabbing, trophy-hunting best. Thankfully, animal populations are recovering.

Queen Elizabeth National Park

1Sights

1Baboon Cliffs ViewpointB2

2Equator MonumentC2

3Kalinzu Ecotourism SiteC4

4Kalinzu FRC4

5Kigezi WRB5

6Kyambura (Chambura) WRC2

7Queen Elizabeth NPB4

8Queen Elizabeth NPC1

9Rwenzori Mountains NPB1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Kazinga Channel Boat TripB3

4Sleeping

10@The RiverA5

11Bush LodgeC2

12Enjojo LodgeA5

13Ishasha Wilderness CampA4

14Jacana Safari LodgeC3

15Katara LodgeC3

16Kingfisher Lodge KichwambaC3

17Kyambura Game LodgeC3

18Mweya Safari LodgeB3

19Simba Safari CampB2

20UWA Campsite & BandasA5

UWA Guesthouse & CottagesB3

5Eating

Simba CanteenB3

Tembo CanteenB3

Information

21Queens PavillionB2

22Visitor Information CentreB3

1Sights & Activities

Wildlife Drives

Most of the wildlife-viewing traffic is in the northeast of the park in Kasenyi, which offers the best chance to see lions, as well as elephants, waterbucks and kob. It’s also one of the most scenic sections of any park in Uganda, particularly in the morning when the savannah landscape shines golden and is dotted with cactus-like candelabra trees. Night wildlife drives (per vehicle US$100, including guide) are also available.

There’s also a small network of trails between Mweya Peninsula and Katunguru gate that usually reveal waterbucks and kob, elephants and, occasionally, leopards.

As well as being famous for its tree-climbing lions, Ishasha, in the south of the Queen Elizabeth National Park, is the only place to see topis and sitatungas.

You can get just about everywhere by car if it isn’t raining, though having a 4WD is a good idea in Ishasha year-round. Taking a UWA ranger-guide (US$20) along for your drive is always a good idea, but more so in Ishasha than anywhere else because they know every fig tree in the area – the lions’ preferred perches.

Kazinga Channel Boat Trip

Almost every visitor takes a two-hour launch trip (US$30) up the Kazinga Channel to see the thousands of hippos and pink-backed pelicans, plus plenty of crocodiles, buffaloes and fish eagles. With a little luck, it’s also possible to catch sight of one of the elephant herds and – very occasionally – see a lion or a leopard. If numbers are low you may have to chip in to cover the boat’s minimum costs. The boat docks below Mweya Safari Lodge, but you buy tickets at the UWA visitor centre next door. Trips departs at 9am, 11am, 3pm and 5pm.

Chimpanzee Tracking

In the eastern region of the park in the 100m-deep Kyambura (Chambura) Gorge, you can go chimpanzee tracking (per person US$50), with walks lasting from two to four hours and departing at 8am and 2pm. You’ve got a semi-reasonable chance of finding the habituated troop, but visits are often unfruitful; mornings are probably the best bet. The gorge is a beautiful scar of green cutting through the savannah, and from the viewing platform you can sometimes see primates, including chimps, frolicking in the treetops below.

Bookings can be made at the visitor centre, or you can just show up and hope there are spots available. Children under 15 years aren’t permitted.

Nature Walks

Guided nature walks are available (US$30 per person), but aren’t overly popular. Trips on the forest trails here are taken mostly by birdwatchers, though there are nine species of primate around. Down at Ishasha, hippo encounters are pretty likely on short walks along the river and, if you’re there early in the morning, there’s a chance of spotting a giant forest hog. You won’t see much on a walk at Mweya that you can’t see just hanging around on your own.

Wildlife Research Tours

A new initiative introduced by UWA involves a range of 'experiential tourism' activities to assure closer wildlife encounters. Most popular is lion tracking (using a combo of locator devices and radio collars; including vehicle US$150) in vehicles provided by UWA that head off track; it also yields good leopard sightings too. Other activities include mongoose tracking (US$30), and assisting with the hippo census and bird species counts.

Equator

EquatorLANDMARK

The equator crosses the northern sector of the park near Kasenyi and is marked with a circular monument on either side of the road, which is predictably popular with passerbys stopping for that quintessential holiday snap.

QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Tree-climbing lions, elephants, leopards, scenic savannah landscapes, boat rides along Kazinga Channel.

When to Go

Year-round, but the dry seasons of December to March and May to August are best.

Practicalities

Park gates are open from 7am to 7pm. Katunguru is the main village in the park’s centre, which is linked by buses from Kampala and Kasese. Cars for safari drives can be rented from here too.

Budget Tips

One of the most accessible parks by public transport; with some negotiation, safari vehicles can be arranged in Katunguru. Budget accommodation is available in most sectors of the park.

TTours

All tour operators can put together a short safari to Queen Elizabeth National Park. Kampala-based Great Lakes Safaris has three-day trips (from US$290 per person with six people) departing every Wednesday and Friday, while Red Chilli Hideaway has four-day safaris from $US400 per person.

Given there are numerous communities living within the park, there are plenty of worthwhile cultural tours in the area.

Salt MineCULTURAL TOUR

(%0753-393450; US$10)

The interesting village of Katwe on the north shore of Lake Edward, 4km west of Main gate (Kabatoro gate), is famous for its salt industry. Salt mining on the crater lake behind the village dates back to at least the 15th century, and today some 3000 people still use the same traditional methods. Women pull salt from evaporation ponds when it’s dry enough (generally December to March and July to September) while men dig rock salt year-round.

Tours are booked at the Katwe Tourism Information Centre on the west side of the village, across from a defunct salt factory.

Leopard VillageCULTURAL TOUR

(%0791-492245; www.uganda-carnivores.org/leopard-village; Muhokya)

Visit Leopard Village, one of the communities within Queen Elizabeth National Park, to get insight into how locals coexisit with wildlife, among other cultural activities.

Kikorongo Women CommunityCULTURAL TOUR

(%0757-548713; kikorongowomen@gmail.com)

Visit Kikorongo Women Community for performances and craft demonstrations.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mweya Peninsula & Around

The best variety of places to stay is on the Mweya Peninsula. A lot of wildlife roams through here, so you genuinely need to be careful at night, especially if you’re walking to/from the Mweya campsite.

UWA Guesthouses & CottagesLODGES, COTTAGES

( GOOGLE MAP ; Mweya; s/d without bathroom USh20,000/40,000, r with bathroom USh80,000, cottages USh250,000-300,000)

In an effort to provide more affordable accommodation in Queen Elizabeth National Park, UWA has acquired a range of properties along Mweya. The pick are the Lower Cottages, basic, comfortable-sized rooms in close proximity to the popular Tembo Canteen. Take care walking in the evening as plenty of wild animals graze here. The laid-back Mweya Hostel across from the information centre is also managed by UWA and is undergoing refurbishment.

Self-caterers, families and groups can opt for one of the cottages equipped with fridge and cooking facilities, which can sleep six to eight people.

UWA CampgroundsCAMPGROUND

(camping USh15,000)

Although the facilities are rustic, the setting is superb, making Mweya a great place to pitch a tent. The main Mweya Campsite 3 has little shade but is set away from the development on the peninsula and looks out over the channel. Much more isolated are Campsites 1 and 2, located 3.5km and 4.5km east of the visitor centre respectively. They have nothing but pit toilets and good channel views, especially Campsite 2.

Expect a lot of animal sightings and sounds; exercise extreme caution after dark. Book all camping at the visitor centre in Mweya before setting up your tent.

oMweya Safari LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0312-260260; www.mweyalodge.com; s/d incl full board from US$220/342; aiWs)

Queen Elizabeth's iconic, classic safari lodge has a commanding location with excellent views over Lake Edward and the Kazinga Channel – full of hippos and buffaloes. Set in a resort-like complex, they offer everything from hotel-style rooms to luxury tents and plush cottages, most with views of the water. Come sunset, the terrace overlooking the water is the place to be with a cold drink.

Even if you're not staying here it's worth popping in for a meal (mains from USh20,000) or a G&T at the atmospheric bar with chesterfield couches, fireplace and hunting relics from yesteryear (including a giant set of tusks).

Tembo CanteenINTERNATIONAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; meals USh10,000-18,000; h6.30am-11pm)

A wonderful safari-style canteen, Tembo buzzes with campers, UWA staff, guides and drivers, all here for cheap, tasty food and cold beer. Head outdoors to its tables with epic lake views.

Simba CanteenSELF-CATERING

(h8am-noon & 5-8pm Tue-Sun)

Selling basic groceries, Simba store is handy for campers, and doubles as a lively bar popular with hotel and UWA workers.

Katunguru & Around

Bush LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0312-294894; www.naturelodges.biz/the-bush-lodge; incl breakfast lazy camping s/d US$30/40, s/d US$100/150)

One of the park's most popular budget choices, this bush camp sits on the banks of Kazinga Channel where elephants and hippos often hang out. There's a choice between basic tents with beds (and power points), or pricier safari-tent rooms with outdoor stone bathrooms. At dinner, tables are brought around the campfire to provide some atmosphere.

Rwenzori Salaama Hotel & LodgingLODGE

(%0782-927350; s/d Ush30,000/50,000, s without bathroom USh10,000)

If you get stuck in Katunguru, this basic lodge has the cheapest and cleanest rooms and a decent attached restaurant.

Kichwamba Escarpment & Around

This ridgetop spot along the Kasese–Mbarara highway, outside the park’s eastern boundary, has some of the best views in Uganda. It looks over the Maramagambo Forest and a wide sweep of savannah out to Lake Edward and the Rwenzori Mountains. It’s a 15-minute drive to chimp tracking at Kyambura (Chambura) Gorge and 45 minutes to wildlife drives at Kasenyi. There are plenty of small-scale coffee plantations in the area.

Kingfisher Lodge KichwambaLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0774-159579; www.kingfisher-uganda.net; s/d incl half board US$110/205; piWs)

This little compound of whitewashed and thatched-roof towers is a tad dated but it's well-priced and has memorable Queen Elizabeth vistas. Rooms are smallish but nice and most come with their own porches.

oKatara LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0773-011648; www.kataralodge.com; s/d incl full board US$236/354; iWs)

A lodge worth splashing out for, with five wood, thatch and canvas cottages made for taking in the stunning savannah views: the sides roll up, the bed rolls out to the deck if you want to sleep under the stars and even the clawfoot tubs looks out over the valley. Otherwise you can enjoy the outlooks from the luxurious pool and outdoor sun beds.

oKyambura Game LodgeLODGE

(%0414-322789; www.kyamburalodge.com; Kyambura; s/d US$169/286; Ws)

One of Queen Elizabeth's best-value luxury lodges, Kyambura is a wonderful choice for those looking to slow things right down. Large rooms strike the perfect balance between deluxe and safari, with balconies made from scavenged wood and furnished with plush sofas looking over stunning savannah views. The swimming pool is lovely with hammocks and lounges on the deck – perfect for a sundowner.

The only downside is that you can see traffic passing through the park in the distance. Low-season rates offer healthy discounts.

Jacana Safari LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0414-258273; www.geolodgesafrica.com; s/d incl full board US$210/330; Ws)

Jacana’s large and luxurious cottages sit widely spaced in Maramagambo forest and all look out over Lake Nyamusingiri. Relax at the pool, in the sauna or on the lake with a kayak, and then dine lakeside or on a pontoon boat. Its isolation comes at the cost of being a long way from the best wildlife-drive locales.

Kasenyi

A few new lodges have sprung up near Lake Bunyampaka, which, though a bit desolate, is perfect for those wanting to hear wild animals at night.

Kasenyi Wild Game LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0392-847783; www.kasenyigamelodges.com; Kasenyi; s/d incl full board US$80/180)

Given its location close to the prime wildlife-viewing area, these well-spaced thatched bandas are top value. All have porches looking out to the salt lake, a popular stop on safari drives.

Kasenyi Safari CampLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0791-992038; www.kasenyisafaricamp.com; Kasenyi; cottages incl full board US$425; Ws)

This luxury lodge, still undergoing construction, promises to be a gem. It's run by an enthusiastic American-Ugandan, with classic thatched tented-cottages spread out in a location good for wildlife encounters. A swimming pool is also on the cards.

Kikorongo

Simba Safari CampLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0704-942646; www.ugandalodges.com/simba; Bwera Rd; camping US$8, dm incl breakfast US$26, s/d incl breakfast US$72/96; W)

Located just outside the northern sector of the park, Simba remains one of the best budget camps and is popular with many of the tour groups. Rooms are spotless with canopy beds and stone-floor showers. It has a social restaurant-bar and convenient location for wildlife drives in Kasenyi. To get here by public transport, take any bus from Kampala heading to Bwera and ask to be dropped off at Simba.

Ishasha

UWA Campsite & BandasCAMPGROUND

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-680463; Ishasha; camping USh15,000, banda without bathroom USh40,000)

A blissfully remote set-up with two basic bandas and a canteen serving local dishes (USh10,000). There are also two lovely campsites on the Ishasha River, which forms the border with the DRC. Be vigilant moving on foot at night as there's an abundance of wildlife present. The site shares a location with an army camp (being on the border and all), so most uniforms here aren’t UWA officers.

o@The RiverLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0787-005888; www.attheriverishasha.com; incl full board camping US$35, tented camp without bathroom per person US$60, s/d US$95/190; s)

Providing a taste of what you get at the luxury camps, @The River offers up the same kind of atmosphere and set-up at very affordable rates. It has a laid-back camp atmosphere, with tasteful cottages, a plunge pool, riverside beach and open-air showers.

Ishasha Wilderness CampLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0414-321479; www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com/ishasha-wilderness-camp; s/d incl full board US$475/720; i)

At these prices this tented camp is probably not as luxurious as it should be; rather, it's all about the location right on the Ntungwe River. It's one of the few lodges inside the park's boundaries. Rates drop during low season (April, May and November).

Enjojo LodgeLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-067070; www.facebook.com/Enjojolodge; s)

Currently under construction this Belgian resort is one to look out for. Its luxury tents and traditional bandas are surrounded by primeval palms, an attractive waterhole and swimming pool.

ISHASHA TREE-CLIMBING LIONS

Somewhat off the beaten track in the far southern sector of the park, Ishasha is famous for its population of tree-climbing lions. It’s one of the few places in Africa where lions are known to hang out in trees (you'll find them in Kidepo National Park too) and are often found lazing on the sprawling limbs of fig trees during the heat of the day. Generally the best time to spot them is outside the usual safari drive times (11am to 5pm, basically when they're not hunting). If it’s wet, the lions generally won’t climb.

Kihihi

For affordable accommodation you can stay in Kihihi, 16km from Ishasha gate – but you’ll miss out on the whole wildlife experience. Kihihi can make a handy base for those with a gorilla permit for Buhoma in Bwindi, 40km south. There's a Stanbic Bank with ATM.

Suba MotelGUESTHOUSE

(%0392-905978; www.subamotel.com; Kihihi; s/d incl breakfast US$25/35)

A clean, cheap and straightforward hotel with rooms arranged around a courtyard, and a good little restaurant that makes a useful pit stop for those passing through.

Savannah Resort HotelHOTEL

(%0777-076086; www.savannahresorthotel.com; Kihihi; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$120/165/240; Ws)

Located 4km outside Kihihi, a 30-minute drive from Ishasha, this pleasant hotel has a mix of comfortable rooms and bandas in a peaceful location surrounded by a golf course. It also has a good restaurant serving international and African dishes.

8Information

Mweya Visitor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Mweya Peninsula; h6.30am-6.30pm)

This modern visitor information centre at Mweya has good displays on the park, as well as maps, books and info on activities and UWA's accommodation and campgrounds.

Queens PavilionTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-6pm; W)

Near the equator monument, this stopover point has tourist info, a cafe with wi-fi and views over Lake George. They also sell maps and souvenirs.

8Getting There & Away

Car

The majority of people visit the park either as part of an organised tour or by renting their own car. If you’re driving, take care of animals crossing the road along the high-speed tarmac section, particularly at night. Petrol is available at Mweya, but it’s pricier than in towns.

Kazinga Channel Safari (%0772-608614; www.kc-safari.webs.com) offers competitive prices for car hire from US$50 per day.

Public Transport

There are several direct buses to Katunguru (USh25,000, seven hours) from Kampala’s main bus park including Kalita, Link, and Poko which all go via Mbarara en route to Kasese (USh4000, one hour). Once in the park, you can either hitch or arrange a special-hire taxi for wildlife drives in Katunguru.

The road from Katunguru to the village of Ishasha cuts through the park and passes Ishasha gate. Although no park entry fees are needed to travel this road, you’ll be fined US$150 if you’re caught venturing off it and into the park. The Ishasha sector is 100km from Mweya down a pretty good road (due to oil exploration in the area) in the far south of the park.

From Ishasha, you can head south for Butogota and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, reaching them in about two hours during the dry season.

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Home to almost half of the world’s surviving mountain gorillas, the World Heritage-listed Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (%0486-424121; adult/child US$40/25; hpark office 7.45am-5pm) is one of East Africa’s most famous national parks. Set over 331 sq km of improbably steep mountain rainforest, the park is home to an estimated 360 gorillas: undoubtedly Uganda’s biggest tourist drawcard.

The Impenetrable Forest, as it’s also known, is one of Africa’s most ancient habitats, since it thrived right through the last Ice Age (12,000 to 18,000 years ago) when most of Africa’s other forests disappeared. In conjunction with the altitude span (1160m to 2607m) this antiquity has produced an incredible diversity of flora and fauna, even by normal rainforest standards. And we do mean rainforest; up to 2.5m of rain falls here annually.

It contains 120 species of mammal – more than any of Uganda’s other national parks – though sightings are less common due to the dense forest. Lucky visitors might see forest elephants, 11 species of primate (including chimpanzees and L’Hoest’s monkeys), duikers, bushbucks, African golden cats and the rare giant forest hog, as well as a host of bird and insect species. For birdwatchers it’s one of the most exciting destinations in the country, with almost 360 species, including 23 of the 24 endemic to the Albertine Rift and several endangered species, such as the African green broadbill. With a good guide, sighting daily totals of over 150 species is possible. On the greener side of the aisle, Bwindi harbours eight endemic plants.

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Tracking mountain gorillas, forest walks with Twa people, birdwatching.

When to Go

December to March and June to September have the least rain, but permits are easier to obtain at other times.

Practicalities

The rainy season often brings delays due to landslides, so be sure to leave enough time to get there; ideally it's best to stay close to the region in which you'll be tracking gorillas.

Budget Tips

During April, May and November gorilla permits are $US350. Budget accommodation is available; public transport is possible, but inconvenient and time-consuming.

1Sights & Activities

Gorilla Tracking

A genuine once-in-a-lifetime experience, hanging out with mountain gorillas is one of the most thrilling wildlife encounters in the world, and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is one of the best places to see them. There are theoretically 96 daily permits available to track gorillas in Bwindi. Permits cost US$600 (including park entry) and are booked through the UWA office in Kampala. Note you must be over 15 years of age to track the gorillas.

Trips leave from the park office nearest the group you’ll be tracking at 8.30am daily, but you should report to park headquarters by 7.45am. For those who are based in Kisoro or Kabale and plan on leaving early in the morning, be mindful that during rainy season there are potential delays, such as landslides or being bogged.

Once you join a tracking group, the chances of finding the gorillas are almost guaranteed. But, as the terrain in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is mountainous and heavily forested, if the gorillas are a fair distance away it can be quite a challenge to get close. The path is often steep and slippery, and it can take anywhere from 30 minutes to five hours to reach them, so you’ll need to be in reasonable enough shape. If you think you’re going to struggle it’s strongly advised you hire a porter who can lend a hand getting up and down the hill. Walking sticks are also a very good idea and are provided by UWA.

Forest Walks

Even if you can’t afford gorilla tracking, Bwindi is a rewarding park to visit just for a chance to explore the lush virgin rainforest. Several three- to four-hour nature walks penetrate the Impenetrable Forest around Buhoma. The walks begin at 9am and 2.15pm and cost US$10.

The Waterfall Trail includes, surprise, surprise, a 33m waterfall on the Munyaga River, but just as worthwhile is the magnificently rich forest it passes through. This is the best trail for spotting both orchids and primates. Weather permitting, the Muzabijiro Loop Trail and Rushura Hill Trail offer excellent views south to the Virunga volcanoes and the Western Rift Valley in the DRC. The latter, which is a more difficult climb, also serves up views of Lake Edward and, on an exceptionally clear day, the Rwenzoris.

A longer but much easier trek is along the River Ivi Trail, which follows the path of a planned-but-never-built road between Buhoma and Nkuringo. It’s 14km through the forest and then another 6km uphill along a road to Nkuringo village; you might be able to hitch this last part.

TTours

Batwa ExperienceCULTURAL TOUR

(%0392-8887000392-888700; www.batwaexperience.com; 1hr/5hr US$30/80)

The ‘Batwa Experience’ helps preserve the culture of the Twa (Batwa) people – who were displaced from their forest habitat when Bwindi became a national park – by allowing you to both meet the Twa and see how they lived in the forest. The five-hour tours include witnessing a mock hunting party with bow and arrows, stories from Twa legend, and song and dance – an intense and often emotional experience.

Full-day prices also include a traditional meal. All proceeds go to helping Twa communities in the region.

Bwindi Community HospitalTOUR

(%0392-880242; www.bwindihospital.com; Buhoma; donation; h8am-6pm)

For something a bit different, head to this well-run hospital for a behind-the-scenes look into the workings of a rural African hospital. You'll tour its various wards (while assuring patient privacy) and be eduated on health issues faced by locals. Donations are appreciated. Check online for volunteering options. It's around 7km from Buhoma's trailhead.

Buhoma Village Tourist WalkWALKING TOUR

(www.buhomacommunity.com; per person US$15; h9am & 2pm)

Offered by the Buhoma Community Rest Camp, these popular three- to four-hour walks head to the surrounding countryside to visit local healers, watch a Twa song-and-dance show, and witness the none-too-appetising production of banana wine and gin (the bananas are mashed by foot).

Ride 4 A WomanCYCLING TOUR

(%0785-999112; www.ride4awoman.org; Buhoma; bicycle rental from US$25, tours from US$25)S

This NGO runs guided mountain-bike tours through the forest or village and rents out bikes if you want to go exploring yourself. They also have a clothing and craft store near Buhoma Hospital, where they offer sewing classes from USh30,000. All proceeds go to helping women in the community.

Nyundo Community Eco-TrailsWALKING TOUR

(%0772-930304; www.pearlsofuganda.org; per person USh20,000)

Based at Buhoma, this group offers a wide variety of village walks including several with a farming focus and others that visit caves and waterfalls. Traditional dances can also be arranged.

BWINDI GORILLAS & PERMITS

Demand for gorilla permits exceeds supply for most of the year in Bwindi. During the ‘low seasons’ of April to May and October to November (the rainiest months), you may be able to confirm a space a week or two in advance of your trip. During the rest of the year it’s not unheard of for permits to be booked up months in advance. If nothing is available that fits your schedule, check at the backpacker places in Kampala and Jinja, where the safari companies advertise excess permits they want to sell. It’s no problem to buy these, even when someone else’s name is on them. Cancellations and no-shows are rare, but you can get on the list at the park office: it’s first-come, first-served. If you haven’t prearranged a gorilla permit, this should be your number one priority upon arrival in Kampala.

At the time of research UWA were offering discount permits during the low season months of April, May and November for $US350 instead of the usual US$600.

Of the 28 gorilla groups living in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, 12 have been habituated to be visited by tourists.

Buhoma

Nestled in the northwest corner of the park, Buhoma has three groups of gorillas: Rushegura (13 members), Mubare (11) and Habinyanza (17). As the first section of the park to open for gorilla tracking, Buhoma is by far the most developed in terms of tourist infrastructure, and with the most permits available it’s also the most popular. Gorillas are probably the most accessible here too, sometimes as little as a 30-minute trek away.

Ruhija

In the northeast of the park, Ruhija has three groups: Bitukura (14 members), Oruzogo (14) and Kyaguriri (19). There’s a good range of accommodation sprouting up here but otherwise it’s also accessible from Kabale or Buhoma, a two-hour drive in either direction.

Nkuringo

While there’s only one group in Nkuringo, a family of 11 that includes two silverbacks, it’s regarded as one of the most entertaining and relaxed of the gorilla groups. Nkuringo is spectacularly set in the southwest of the park on a ridge opposite the wall of green that is Bwindi. From various spots you can spy Lake Edward, the Rwenzoris, all of the Virungas and even Nyiragongo Volcano by Goma, the DRC.

Rushaga

Located in the southeast of the park, Rushaga has 40 permits available for its five groups including Nshongi (family of eight gorillas, the most popular), Mishaya (eight gorillas), Kahungye (Bwindi's largest habituated group with 26 members), Busingye (nine gorillas) and Bweza (seven members). This lovely thick tract of forest is also home to elephants.

4Sleeping & Eating

Buhoma

Given that there are only 24 gorilla permits per day available at Buhoma, there are a lot of lodges competing for your business.

oBuhoma Community Rest CampLODGE

(%0772-384965; www.buhomacommunity.com; camping US$10, dm US$20, r with/without bathroom US$60/50)

Next door to the park headquarters, this camp is Bwindi's most popular budget option with a stunning location looking directly out to the forest. Bandas and safari tents are spaced out on a hill heading down the valley, and the best are at the bottom, which puts you right at the jungle; gorillas sometimes pass by the clearing here.

Breakfast is US$10 and a set dinner and lunch is US$17. Some of the profits go towards funding community-development projects.

Gorilla Conservation CampBANDAS

(%0782-509151; www.ctph.org; Buhoma; camping US$10, s/d incl full board US$55/100; W)S

A fantastic new budget camp set up by the community, here you get sweeping views of Bwindi from its bucolic hilltop location above Buhoma. Accommodation comprises raised self-contained safari tents with porches. All proceeds go to gorilla conservation and community projects.

Bwindi View BandasBACKPACKERS

(%0772-399224; www.gorilladestination.com; camping US$10, s/d US$50/80)

Up on the ridge directly across from the park entrance, this friendly and affordable community-run lodge offers fairly generic-style rooms with slight glimpses of the forest.

Jungle View LodgeGUESTHOUSE

(%0786-556140; s/d without bathroom USh40,000/60,000)

Strictly for penny pinchers, this guesthouse has bare-bones rooms devoid of the atmosphere you'd hope for when visiting a national park.

Bwindi LodgeLODGE

(%0414-346464; www.volcanoessafaris.com/lodges/bwindi-lodge; s/d incl full board & activities US$400/660; W)

An ultra luxurious offering by Volcanoes hotel group, Bwindi Lodge has superb thatched, farm-style cottages that open up to thick jungle.

Sanctuary Gorilla Forest CampLODGE

(www.sanctuaryretreats.com/uganda-camps-gorilla-forest; Buhoma; s/d incl full board US$600/1200; W)

The most atmospheric of Bwindi's luxury lodges, this one is tucked within the park's boundaries. Its sumptuous safari tents have mahogany floorboards with private porches and are set on the forest's misty slopes. Its campfire on the lawn is tailor-made for gorilla debriefing.

Buhoma LodgeLODGE

(%0414-321479; http://ugandaexclusivecamps.com/buhoma-lodge; s/d incl full board US$445/660)

One of the few lodges inside the park, Buhoma Lodge is perfect for those wanting to make their ‘gorilla experience’ that bit more memorable. Spacious rooms are in stilted cottages where rustic touches are mixed with polished-wood floors and plenty of natural light. Each has a private porch with fantastic views of the dense forest, and a stone bathtub with seats.

Nkuringo

Once the domain of luxury clients, the good news for budget travellers is that several budget options have recently opened up in Nkuringo. It's a wonderfully scenic place, and it's worthing staying overnight to soak up the atmosphere before your trek.

Bwindi BackpackersLODGE

(%0772-661854; www.bwindibackpackerslodge.com; incl breakfast camping US$15, dm US$20, s/d with bathroom US$50/90, s/d without bathroom US$35/60; W)

If there's one thing Nkuringo needed, it was affordable lodging. Thankfully Bwindi Backpackers stepped up with this lovely offering. Sure it has its imperfections, and rooms are basic, but all is forgiven with those full-frontal forest views! It's well located for both Nkuringo and Rushaga permit holders.

Albertine Gorilla CampsiteGUESTHOUSE

(%0782-644432; Nkuringo; camping US$7, r without bathroom USh40,000)

Conveniently located at Nkuringo's UWA trailhead, this community-run guesthouse offers a great deal for budget travellers with basic, homely rooms. Also offers community walks and activities.

oNkuringo Gorilla CampsiteLODGE

(%0754-805580; www.gorillacamp.com; Nkuringo; incl full board lazy camping s/d US$82/143, s/d without bathroom US$200/250, cottages with bathroom s/d US$300/418; W)

A wonderful set-up with views looking out to the misty Virungas, the Nkuringo Gorilla Camp is one of the best places to stay in Bwindi. Comfortable rooms and cottages mix safari-chic with boutique touches, while lazy camping provides a more cost-effective option. Little touches such as turn-over service and hot-water bottles go a long way.

The food is also good, served in the restaurant lit by paraffin lanterns with a bucket of glowing coals provided for warmth. It’s a short walk from the trailhead.

Clouds LodgeLODGE

(%0414-251182; www.wildplacesafrica.com; s/d incl full board US$795/1220; i)

No, those prices aren’t a typo. Built as a project between the Uganda Safari Company, African Wildlife Foundation, International Gorilla Conservation Programme and the local community, this lodge offers a subtle sort of luxury, but if you can afford it, you’ll enjoy it. The large stone cottages have big windows, original art and double-sided fireplaces, plus you get a butler during your stay. Rates include alcohol. Check the website for low-season discounts.

Rushaga

Rushaga is fast developing as one of Bwindi's finest places to stay with its affordable lodges surrounded by delightful nature. The rural township of Rubuguri also has an increasing number of budget lodges.

Nshongi CampBANDAS

(%0774-231913; www.nshongicamp.altervista.org; Rushaga; camping US$5, banda incl full board s/d US$48/76)

Right on the forest's edge, this delightful camp has simple mud-brick bandas scattered among its lovely garden. Friendly owner Silver is a local, and is very knowledgeable about the area. It’s only a short walk up to the trailhead. There’s no generator here, so be sure your camera batteries are fully charged.

Gorilla Valley LodgeLODGE

(%0778-531524; www.naturelodges.biz/gorilla-valley-lodge; Rushaga; s/d incl breakfast US$95/106)

Gorilla Valley delivers the complete Bwindi experience: spectacular forest views, atmospheric bar, and well-priced rooms with a rustic simplicity that one imagines would be to Dian Fossey's liking.

Nshongi Gorilla ResortLODGE

(%0785-003091; www.nshongigorillaresort.com; Rubuguri; s/d incl full board US$70/140)

Located in the small town of Rubugiri, this lodge has wonderful thatched cottages with attractive African decor. The rooms in the main building are much less appealing, however.

Gorilla Safari LodgeLODGE

(%0414-345742; www.gorillasafarilodge.com; Rushaga; s/d incl full board from US$230/360)

Blending luxury with nature, this solar-powered lodge's cottages have great views, clawfoot baths and their own fireplaces. It’s a five-minute walk from the trailhead. Discounts available.

Ruhija

Ruhija has a good mix of atmospheric, comfortable lodges and laid-back community camps, so there should no longer be the need for an early morning drive or day trip from Buhoma to visit these gorillas.

oRuhija Community Rest CampGUESTHOUSE

(%0771-846635; camping US$10, r with breakfast US$25-35, log cabin US$65)S

Proving you don't need to spend a fortune for a view, this ultra-relaxed camp has the entire forest at its feet – best enjoyed from wicker chairs on your porch. The common area has a hostel vibe with fireplace, bar and board games. Proceeds go to water projects and a local orphanage. They also offer community walks.

Ruhija Gorilla Friends Resort & CampsiteGUESTHOUSE

(%0754-323546; bitarihorobert@gmail.com; Ruhija; camping with/without tent US$10/15, s without bathroom US$20, tented r per person US$25, cottage s/d US$45/90)S

One of Bwindi's best-value options for budget travellers, here you can pitch a tent, use one of theirs, go for a room or best of all – the tented rooms with great views. Proceeds go to the community.

Bakiga LodgeLODGE

(%0774-518421; www.bakigalodge.com; Ruhija; s/d incl breakfast from US$100/160)S

Run by an NGO that funds local water projects, Bakiga Lodge offers terrific value with its mix of stilted log cabins and safari tents looking out to the forested hills.

Gorilla Mist CampLODGE

(%0756-563577; www.gorillamistcamp.com; s/d incl full board US$130/250)

A solid midrange lodge with views of hilly surrounds from its stilted thatched-roof cottages. Bathtubs and balconies add to its appeal.

8Getting There & Away

Buhoma

Whether you have your own vehicle or not, getting to Buhoma can be complicated. A special-hire vehicle is the way to go, particularly if you can muster up a group to share the costs. The four-hour trip from Kabale to Buhoma costs around USh200,000/ one way or USh300,000 return.

By public transport there are several options involving uncomfortable and often hair-raising truck journeys. If you’re lucky you’ll get a pick-up truck direct to Buhoma (USh15,000, four to six hours) from Kabale on Tuesday or Friday at around 10am. Otherwise you can try your luck with a truck from Kabale to Kihihi and disembark at Kanyantorogo (USh10,000, three hours). From here you’ll need to get either another pick-up to Butogota (USh4000, 30 minutes) or wait for the bus from Kampala to pass (as early as 3pm, but usually later). Butogota is 17km northeast of Buhoma; for the last leg of the trip you have the option of catching the daily Green Bus at 8am, an infrequent pick-up to Buhoma (USh2000, one hour), or (most realistically) a special-hire taxi for USh60,000 or boda-boda for about USh20,000.

If you’re heading to Buhoma from Kampala, there’s a daily Bismarken bus to Butogota (USh25,000, 10 to 12 hours) departing Kampala’s Buganda Bus Park around 6am; it departs in the other direction from Butogota at 3am.

If you’re driving from Kabale to Buhoma, the best route is the long way through Kanungu (which can be done in a car if you’re an experienced driver) rather than the rough road through Ruhija.

It’s also possible to access Buhoma via walking through Bwindi Impenetrable National Park to Nkuringo, a lovely 12km stretch that takes five to seven hours.

If you’re in a rush, charter flights can get you to the Kanyonza Airstrip, 19km from Buhoma.

If you’re coming from Queen Elizabeth National Park, Buhoma is best accessed from Kihihi, which is around 30 minutes outside Ishasha; a special-hire taxi is the most realistic option, costing around USh100,000 for the 40km journey.

Nkuringo

There are occasional trucks (USh8000, four hours) from Kabale to Nkuringo but realistically you'll have to take a special-hire taxi (one-way USh180,000, return 120,000, 2½ hours) or boda-boda (USh35,000).

From Kisoro a truck travels to Nkuringo (USh10,000, three hours) on Monday and Thursday. It leaves Nkuringo around 8am and returns about 3pm. A special-hire taxi from Kisoro (1½ hours) costs around USh100,000 one way or USh150,000 return. A boda-boda driver will charge you USh30,000, but it’s a long, bottom-shaking ride. Be aware of the risks during rainy season when there can be lengthy delays due to the poor condition of the road.

The best way to travel from Nkuringo (you can also do it uphill from Kisoro) is to leave the road behind. Nkuringo Walking Safaris (%0774-805580; www.nkuringowalkingsafaris.com; 2 people from US$70) will lead you on a 22km trek to Kisoro via Lake Mutanda (this can be shortened with some driving) and then a 2½-hour paddle in a dugout canoe.

You can also slip through the forest to/from Buhoma along the River Ivi Trail.

Rushaga

Located 54km from Kabale, Rushaga can be reached via a special-hire taxi (USh150,000, three hours), while a boda-boda is around USh30,000 one-way.

Otherwise it’s 32km from Kisoro, which costs USh60,000 one way and USh90,000 return by special-hire taxi (one hour) or USh15,000 by boda-boda one way. Trucks (USh4500, two hours) depart in the afternoon on Monday and Thursday, and at 10am on Friday.

Ruhija

Ruhija is about 50km (up to two hours) from Buhoma gate, and 52km from Kasese (a special-hire will cost about USh140,000 return). If you’re chancing your luck with public transport, there are pick-up trucks that leave Kabale on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, but there’s no set departure time.

Kabale

Pop 44,000

A dusty provincial town, Kabale is nothing to write home about. It's most of interest to travellers as a transport hub and gateway to both Lake Bunyonyi and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

Kabale

1Sights

1Home of EdirisaA1

4Sleeping

2Engagi GuesthouseA1

Home of EdirisaA1

3White Horse InnB2

1Sights & Activities

Home of EdirisaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-558222; www.edirisa.org; Muhumuza Rd; adult/child incl guide USh10,000/4000; h9am-9pm)

Inside the Home of Edirisa hostel, this simple and squashy (but very worthwhile) cultural museum houses a replica traditional homestead, built of sticks and papyrus, showing how the local Bakiga people lived a century ago.

4Sleeping & Eating

Home of EdirisaBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-558222; www.edirisa.org; Muhumuza Rd; dm USh15,000, s/d without bathroom USh20,000/30,000, d USh40,000,; iW)

Within a very cool polka-dotted building, this chilled-out guesthouse has friendly staff and simple (but dark) rooms priced right for the budget traveller. All rooms have shared showers. The rooftop restaurant is the spot to hang out in Kabale. They also lead canoe-trekking trips on Lake Bunyonyi and run a basic bush camp, the Heart, on Lake Bunyoni.

Engagi GuesthouseBACKPACKERS

(Kabale Backpackers; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-959667; www.engagiexperience.com/guesthouse.aspx; Muhumuza Rd; camping USh9000, dm USh15,000, s/d USh25,000/35,000; iW)

Your classic budget guesthouse, Engagi has a friendly vibe, good-value private rooms and a lively bar with pool table. Its Engagi Safaris books budget tours, which are excellent value, and rents mountain bikes.

White Horse InnHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-459859; www.whitehorseinnkabale.com; Rwamafa Rd; s/d incl full breakfast USh102,000/145,000; i)

Set on five grassy acres on the outskirts of town, this faded colonial hotel (built in 1937) has hosted many a visiting dignitary, including Jimmy Carter and Bill Gates. These days it's a relic of the glory days – but still a good option for those who like their accommodation to have some character.

8Information

Pick up a copy of the free Gorilla Highlands (www.gorillahighlands.com) pocket guide, which has information and history about the area including Bunyoni, Mgahinga and Bwindi. It's available online or from the Home of Edirisa; the ebook is also available online.

Stanbic ( GOOGLE MAP ) and Barclays ( GOOGLE MAP ) banks are on the main road.

8Getting There & Away

Home of Edirisa is a good source of information for onward travel, particularly public transport to Bwindi.

The Post Bus ( GOOGLE MAP ) heads to Kabale to/from Kampala (USh25,000, eight hours) en route to Kisoro (USh10,000, two hours) at around 3pm from the post office. Other regular daily buses to Kampala – including Horizon, Bismarken and Jaguar – have similar prices and also contine to Kisoro.

There are buses to Fort Portal (Ush30,000, eight hours) via Queen Elizabeth National Park and Kasese (Ush25,000, seven hours).

Minibus taxis to the Rwandan border at Katuna (USh5000, 30 minutes) and on to Kigali are frequent. Jaguar buses also head to Kigale (USh20,000, four hours).

Lake Bunyonyi

Lake Bunyonyi (place of many little birds) is undoubtedly the loveliest lake in Uganda. Its contorted shore encircles 29 islands, and the steep surrounding hillsides are intensively terraced, reminiscent of parts of Nepal. A magical place, especially with a morning mist rising off the placid waters, it has supplanted the Ssese Islands as the place for travellers to chill out on their way through Uganda.

1Sights & Activities

All guesthouses can arrange boat trips on the lake, either in motorboats or dugout canoes, which is still how most locals get about. This is one of the few places in Uganda where you can swim, with no crocodiles, hippos or bilharzia, so go ahead and jump in.

Akampeine IslandHISTORIC SITE

Translating to `Punishment Island', this tiny island was so named because it was once the place where unmarried pregnant women were dumped to die. Their only rescue from drowning or starvation was if a man who was too poor to pay a bride-price came over to claim the banished woman as his wife. There’s nothing to see here, with just one spindly tree in its centre.

Bwama & Njuyeera (Sharp’s) IslandsHISTORIC SITE

Many boat drivers will take you to these islands, where British missionary Dr Leonard Sharp founded a leper colony and settled in 1921, but the story is more interesting than the sights. The colony on Bwama was shut down in the 1980s (there are two schools on the island now) and nearly all Njuyeera's history was stripped when it was converted into a (not recommended) hotel.

Kyahugye IslandWILDLIFE RESERVE

(/www.bunyonyiecoresort.com; per person USh10,000)

Run by Lake Bunyonyi Eco Resort, this 35-acre island is worth a visit if you want to see to wildlife such as zebras, waterbucks, ipala and kob up close. All were brought here from Lake Mburo National Park.

Canoe Trekking

The best way to get intimate with Bunyonyi is by jumping in a canoe to paddle its peaceful waters. Excellent tours (%0752-558558; www.canoetrekking.com; half-/1-/2-/3-day trek per person from US$35/50/125/185) are offered by the Home of Edirisa in Kabale, which range from five hours to its flagship three-day tour. The longer tours have the benefit of allowing you to get a very up-close look at local life with village homestays and visits to the Twa. Note prices are for groups of five.

Otherwise it's easy enough to grab a dugout canoe on your own for a leisurely paddle; but practise for a while before paddling off on an ambitious trip, as many travellers end up going round in circles, doing what’s known locally as the mzungu corkscrew. Keep an eye out for otters, particularly along the shore during early morning and late afternoon.

TTours

All of the guesthouses at Lake Bunyonyi can set you up with village walks to see, among other things, local blacksmiths (abahesi) who have replaced locally mined iron ore with scrap metal, but otherwise use traditional methods. But if you just want an easygoing amble along the lakeshore, it’s straightforward enough to find your own way around.

Batwa TodayCULTURAL TOUR

(www.edirisa.org; from $US30)

There are several Twa villages in the area, but Batwa Today is the most recommended, aiming to deliver a more authentic exchange. Trips head to Echuya Forest, the former home of local Twa, and while there's cultural performances, the experience is less contrived than those offered in Bwindi and Mghahinga. Rather than dwelling on the past, insights are offered from a more current context.

Arranged by the team from Home of Edirisa, tours are led by Twa guides and sensitively balance preserving Twa culture and identity with improving living conditions, while minimising the human zoo element. Prices exclude transport, which can be arranged for US$15 for a taxi/boda combo, or US$60 per vehicle.

TWA (BATWA) TOURS: TO GO OR NOT TO GO…

The Twa (Batwa) people have almost all been forced out of their ancestral forest homes, where they lived as nomadic hunters and gatherers, due to the clearing of forests for agriculture by neighbouring tribes or the creation of national parks. One of Africa’s most ancient tribal groups, the Twa are now faced with a plight common to many indigenous peoples: they are a marginalised sector of the Ugandan community, often living in squalid conditions.

Many Ugandans view the Twa with disdain and will tell you they’re lazy. But the Twa are uninterested in living in a modern agro-industrial society. Life in the forest was anything but easy, but this is the only life the older generation know, and even those who are making an effort to adopt farming have found it very hard to adapt to modern life.

In many of the places where the Twa now live, particularly near Lake Bunyonyi and Mgahinga, Bwindi and Semuliki national parks, guides will offer to take you to visit one of their villages. The visits invariably involve a song-and-dance demonstration, and once the music begins you can’t help but notice that they project a genuine pride.

Most Twa today still rely on handouts, and so they’re only too happy for a chance to cash in on their culture. (Your guide should be giving a good chunk of change to the village chairperson for the performance, and basketry is usually offered for sale.) In some ways it’s this very commercialisation of their culture that ensures the survival of the Twa as a distinct tribal group within Uganda.

Despite this, visits can still end up taking on a ‘human safari’ feel, which can be unfortunate for everyone involved. The best way to visit the Twa is through initiatives in Lake Bunyonyi, and Bwindi and Mgahinga national parks. These allow you to explore the forest with Twa guides, receiving demonstrations on hunting and cultural performances. All money goes to helping local Twa communities and ultimately preserving their indigenous culture.

4Sleeping & Eating

The lake has a good choice of accommodation, both on the mainland and on several islands. All have restaurants and bars (order well in advance). Most feature crayfish on the menu, a local delicacy caught fresh from the lake, that resemble small prawns in size and taste.

Mainland

Kalebas CampGUESTHOUSE

(%0772-907892; camping per person US$5, s/d safari tents US$15/20, r from US$30)

One of Bunyonyi's original lakeside lodges, Kalebas has a beautiful garden attracting plenty of birdlife. The stilted safari tents are the pick, and it's also well suited to camping. However, basic rooms are overpriced and lack atmosphere. It has a lovely restaurant with wonderful lake views.

Bunyonyi Overland ResortBACKPACKERS

(%0772-409510; www.bunyonyioverland.com; camping with/without tent US$8/12, dm US$5, s/d from US$35/45, cottage s/d US$45/60; W)

Overland's sprawling lakeside camp caters to all kinds with four-bed dorms, overlander campsites and comfortable, self-contained cottages (some with phones in them!). It’s extremely popular, and its social bar is Bunyonyi's liveliest. They hire mountain bikes (US$10) and canoes too.

Crater Bay CottageGUESTHOUSE

(%0486-426255; www.craterbaycottageslakebunyonyi.com; camping per person US$5, r without bathroom US$10, tented camping incl breakfast s/d US$20/25, cottages incl breakfast s/d US$50/70 )

A laid-back and inexpensive family-run resort, Crater Bay offers a choice of banda cottages or tented camping in its attractive grounds overlooking the lake. There are plenty of private areas to relax in the garden. For shoestringers, there are very basic rooms out back.

Arcadia CottagesLODGE

(%0793-617741; www.arcadialodges.com/lake-bunyonyi.html; s/d incl breakfast US$120/190; W)

Wow! Built high on a hill, Arcadia has intoxicating views over the lake dotted with dozens of islands and a backdrop of the Virunga volcanoes in the distance. The lower row of cottages are the pick of the accommodation, boasting unhindered views, private porches and comfortable rooms, which could, however, do with a refurb.

Even if you won’t be sleeping here, stop by for a meal for the sweeping panoramic views. On chilly nights a brazier of hot coals is provided, which makes things nice and cosy. It sits 2km uphill off the main road to the lake.

Birdnest@Bunyoni ResortRESORT

(%0754-252560; www.birdnestatbunyonyi.com; s/d incl full breakfast US$150/175; Ws)

Resembling some sort of thatched palace, the Belgian-owned Birdnest is an impressive sight. It's the most upmarket choice in Bunyonyi, but remains excellent value. Open-plan rooms have vibrant decor with lovely private balconies looking out to the lake, while the outside terrace decking has a swimming pool with huge hammocks and free canoe hire.

The restaurant has a quality European menu and a good wine list.

Lake View Coffee HouseCAFE

(h6am-5pm; W)

Marking the starting point of Bunyonyi is this open-air cafe with decking looking out to the lake. Stop by for coffee, cold beer, crayfish and wi-fi.

Islands

Secure parking is available by the Rutinda landing for those driving here.

oByoona AmagaraLODGE

(%0752-652788; www.lakebunyonyi.net; Itambira Island; camping USh12,000, dm USh20,000-26,000, geodome per person USh43,000-58,000, cabin per person USh48,000, cottage USh215,000; i)

Byoona Amagara bills itself as a backpackers' paradise, and it’s hard to disagree. There’s a great choice of rooms, most built with natural materials and reasonably priced. The stars of the show are the open-faced geodome huts – birds and lizards can come in, but so do the unencumbered views – with comfortable beds, warm blankets, mosquito nets and thoughtfully positioned outdoor showers looking out to the lake.

The originality continues in the kitchen, which turns out tasty, creative dishes. There's even a cinema (USh2000) for hire. A dugout canoe from Rutinda is free until 6pm. Note private rooms have a two-person minimum during peak holiday periods, and a 25% single supplement at other times.

Bushara Island CampLODGE

(%0772-464585; www.busharaislandcamp.com; Bushara Island; camping US$6, safari tents s/d US$35/40, cottages s/d/tr US$35/40/58)

One of Bunyonyi's best choices, this ultra-relaxed camp offers a wonderful selection of cottages and safari tents, all widely spaced through the eucalyptus forest. The ‘treehouse’ cottage (US$38) set on stilts is wonderfully rustic and features a great balcony. All have memorable outdoor showers. With top service (breakfast delivered to your door!), it’s no surprise that there are many return visitors.

The thatched-roof restaurant serves excellent food and has a roaring fireplace. A motorboat transfer from Rutinda is free unless you’re camping (per trip USh15,000). Other perks are free birdwatching tours and a fun rope swing into the lake. It's run by the Church of Uganda to raise funds for community development projects.

Lake Bunyonyi Eco ResortLODGE

(%0392-080344; www.bunyonyiecoresort.com; Kyahugye Island; camping USh15,000, s/d incl full board US$90/150)

It's always nice to find somewhere that does things a bit differently, and this resort on Kyahugye Island certainly fits the bill, with its small population of zebras, kob, impala and bushbucks (and one monkey) imported from Lake Mburo to Lake Bunyonyi! Rooms are in private, wooden thatched cottages with lake views. Call ahead to arrange pick-ups from the pier to avoid the long climb up.

Nature’s Prime IslandBUNGALOW

(%0772-423215; www.naturesprimeisland.com; Akarwa Island; incl breakfast safari tents s/d from US$35/50, cabins US$40/80)

Occupying a lovely little wooded island right near Rutinda, Nature Prime mixes it up with Scandinavian-style rustic log cabins and safari tents set on raised platforms. Use of canoes is complimentary as is the boat transfer.

8Getting There & Away

Rutinda, where most of Bunyonyi's lodging and the main jetty are found, is situated 9km from Kabale. To get here take a special-hire taxi (USh20,000) or boda-boda (USh6000).

Kisoro

Pop 12,700

While Kisoro – a gritty town with a frontier atmosphere – may not be much to look at, its verdant surrounds are undeniably beautiful. On a clear day the backdrop of the Virunga chain of volcanoes is stunning. Kisoro serves as a popular base for tourists, here primarily to access nearby Mgahinga Gorilla National Park to see mountain gorillas (if they’re this side of the border, that is), track golden monkeys or climb volcanoes. It’s also a convenient base for those with gorilla permits in the southern sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park or even Parc National des Virungas at Djomba, just over the border in the DRC. If you’re en route to/from Rwanda it makes a pleasant place to spend the night.

Cold winds blow through town, so pack that jacket.

Kisoro

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Mountain Gorilla Coffee ToursB1

2United Organisation for Batwa Development in UgandaB2

4Sleeping

3Countryside GuesthouseA2

4Golden Monkey GuesthouseB1

5Mucha Bistro & GuesthouseC2

6Sawasawa Guest HouseA2

7Travellers Rest HotelA2

8Virunga HotelA1

5Eating

9Coffee Pot CaféB2

Transport

Bismarken BusD2

10Horizon CoachesD2

11Jaguar CoachesD2

12Post BusD1

13Taxi ParkC1

TTours

There’s not much to see and do in Kisoro itself, with Mgahinga Gorilla National Park and Lake Mutanda the real attractions, just outside of town. Kisoro’s Monday and Thursday markets are large, colourful affairs, well worth some of your time.

United Organisation for Batwa Development in UgandaCULTURAL TOUR

(UOBDU; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-660810; 3 Bazanyamaso Rd; h8am-5.30pm)

If you’re interested in visiting a Twa (Batwa) village, this organisation will ensure that your trip is culturally sensitive. If you have the chance, it's better to do the Batwa Trail in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park.

Mountain Gorilla Coffee ToursTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0777-412288; www.mountaingorillacoffeetours.shutterfly.com; Main St; 1-/2-people US$30/45)

These excellent coffee tours, run by knowledgeable guides, take you through the whole process from bean to cup. It finishes with a cupping session to compare notes on aromas and tastes using different brewing and roasting techniques. A bag of coffee is included in the price. They also rent mountain bikes, and run other tours, including canoeing Lake Mutanda and village homestays.

4Sleeping & Eating

There's quality sleeping options at nearby Mgahinga Gorilla National Park and at Lake Mutanda.

Golden Monkey GuesthouseBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-435148; www.goldenmonkeyguesthouse.com; dm US$10, r without bathroom US$15, s/d with bathroom US$25/35; W)

Friendly and welcoming, Golden Monkey is popular with NGOs and return visitors. Well-maintained rooms are basic but good value, and it has the best menu in town. They also run Virunga Adventure Tours, and can arrange trips across Uganda. If it's full, they've got Rafiki Guesthouse up the road.

Sawasawa Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785-642114; www.facebook.com/sawasawaguesthouse; Bunagana Rd; s/d incl breakfast from USh30,000/50,000)

Run by a friendly team, low-key Sawasawa makes an excellent budget choice with sparkling rooms and reliable hot water. The food is also good.

Mucha Bistro & GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0784-478605; www.hotel-mucha.com/bistroandguesthouse; Kabale-Kisoro Rd; s/d USh35,000/45,000; W)

The idea of a designer guesthouse on this stretch of highway seems unlikely, but German-Bulgarian–owned Mucha pulls it off with affordable, clean and comfortable rooms. Its smart bistro is also a winner. Their flagship lodge is based in Lake Mutanda.

Lake Chahafi ResortLODGE

(www.lakechahafiresort.com; Lake Chahafi; incl breakfast camping with/without tent US$8/12, dm US$20, s/d US$40/50)

Located 15km outside Kisoro, on the road to the Rwanda border, these cottages are a great place to hide away by the lake. There are plenty of activities including biking, birding and canoeing on the lake. The site has a remarkable history as the place of a WWI battle that saw British/Belgian troops up against the Germans in 1915; trenches can still be seen.

Countryside GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0782-412741; countrysideguesthouse@yahoo.com; Bunagana Rd; camping USh10,000, s/d/tr USh30,000/50,000/65,000; p)

Another laid-back guesthouse with well-priced rooms and a manager who's a good source of local info.

Virunga HotelBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0782-360820; camping US$6, dm US$10, r with bathroom US$25-50)

One of Kisoro's original backpackers, Virunga Hotel is where overland trucks end up. Its rear block has new, modern rooms.

oTravellers Rest HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0772-533029; www.gorillatours.com/accommodations/travellers-rest/; Mahuabura Rd; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$82/95/125; iW)

This is a hotel with a history. It was once run by the so-called father of gorilla tourism, Walter Baumgärtel, and Dian Fossey called it her ‘second home’. Through various thoughtful touches such as Congolese crafts, this otherwise simple place has become a lovely little oasis. The garden has lots of shade, and an atmospheric bar with fireplace.

It's also known for its set four-course dinners (USh38,000) which are worth the splurge; visitors need to prebook by 3.30pm.

Coffee Pot CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffee-pot-cafe.com; Bunagana Rd; coffee USh5000, mains from USh10,000-20,000; h8.30am-9.30pm; W)

A smart German-owned cafe with decent coffee, burgers, BLTs and meatball dishes. They sell secondhand books and quality crafts next door.

8Information

There are several banks with ATMs. There’s also a few internet places along the main road.

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0414-680793; Main St; h8am-5pm)

The place to book your gorilla permits, they have information about everything in and around Kisoro.

8Getting There & Away

The Post Bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) heads to Kampala (USh30,000, eight hours) via Kabale (USh10,000, 1½ hours)​ daily at 6am. Several bus companies (including Bismarken ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Jaguar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )) also have departures during the morning, as do minibus taxis.

The Rwandan border south of Kisoro at Cyanika is now open 24 hours and it’s a pretty simple, quick trip to Musanze (Ruhengeri). To the border a boda boda is around USh5000 and special-hire taxi is USh25,000.

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

Although it’s the smallest of Uganda’s national parks at just 34 sq km, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (%0486‑430098; adult/child US$40/20) punches well above its weight. Tucked away in the far southwest corner of the country, the tropical rainforest cloaks three dramatic extinct volcanoes and, along with the contiguous Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda and Parc National des Virungas in the DRC (which together with Mgahinga form the 434-sq-km Virunga Conservation Area), this is the home of half the world’s mountain gorilla population. Elephants and buffaloes are rarely seen, but they’re also out there, and 115 species of bird flutter through the forests, including the Rwenzori turaco and mountain black boo boo.

Gorilla tracking is still the main attraction here, but it’s less popular than Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, due to the one habituated family having a tendency to duck across the mountains into Rwanda or the DRC. But there’s much more on offer here than just gorillas. Mgahinga also serves up some challenging but rewarding treks and an interesting cave, plus golden monkey tracking is almost as fun as hanging out with the big boys.

All activities are booked through UWA in Kisoro, or otherwise at the Mgahinga trailhead.

MGAHINGA GORILLA PERMITS

Unlike permits for Bwindi, bookings for Mgahinga Gorilla National Park aren’t taken at the UWA head office in Kampala. You must make your reservation by calling the park office in Kisoro no more than two weeks in advance. You pay at the park on the day of your tracking. Because of this system, tour operators rarely come here, making it a good place to get permits at the last minute. It is also possible to book permits in Kisoro for Rushaga at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

MGAHINGA GORILLA NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Mountain gorillas; golden monkeys; volcano trekking in the stunning Virungas; Batwa Trail.

When to Go

Year-round, but be sure to check the gorillas are here, as they sometimes hang out on the Rwandan side. The dry seasons (mid-December to February and June to October) are best for tracking primates.

Practicalities

Most travellers spend the night in Kisoro, a short drive from the park headquarters, but there are some good sleeping options in the park.

Budget Tips

Golden-monkey tracking offers a more affordable alternative to tracking the gorillas. Nearby Kisoro is a very backpacker-friendly town, but there's also affordable lodging at Mgahinga Gorilla National Park and Lake Mutanda.

2Activities

Gorilla Tracking

If you plan to come here specifically for gorillas, the first step is to check they’re on this side of the border. When the gorillas are living on Ugandan soil, eight people can visit per day. The cost is US$600, including the entrance fee, a ranger-guide and armed guards. Due to the higher altitude, gorillas here have a fuzzier, luxuriant coat.

Trips depart from park headquarters at 8.30am, but check in at the park office in Kisoro the day before your trip to confirm your arrival.

Volcano Trekking

The park has three dormant volcanoes that can be climbed, which, though strenuous, require no mountaineering experience. Each volcano costs US$80 to climb, which includes park entry and a guide. The most popular climb is Mt Sabyinyo (3669m), which involves breathtaking walks along gorges and a few challenging ladder ascents with the reward of getting to the third and final peak where you’ll be standing in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC all at once. It's a 14km, eight-hour trek.

There's also the 12km, seven-hour trek to the crater lake at the summit of Mt Muhavura (4127m). It's the tallest of the volcanoes and almost too perfect to be true, with views reaching all the way to the Rwenzori Mountains. Mt Gahinga (3474m) is the least taxing of the climbs, an 8km, six-hour trek up to its swampy summit through bamboo zone. All treks lead you into the otherworldly Afro-alpine moorland, home of bizarre plants such as giant groundsel and lobelias.

Two less demanding treks (US$30 including guide), both about 10km long and great for birdwatchers, are the Border Trail, which starts at Sabyinyo but then cuts back south along the Congolese border, and the Gorge Trail, which heads to a small waterfall in a gorge halfway up Sabyinyo. You could combine these into one longer trek.

Golden-Monkey Trekking

While inevitably overshadowed by the gorillas, golden monkeys (a very rare subspecies of the rare blue monkey found only in this part of the world) are another top lure to Mgahinga. For US$90 (including park entry) you spend an hour with these beautiful creatures who live in large groups and are quite playful. Tracking starts at 8.30am, and the guides can find the habituated troop 85% of the time, though they are less easily spotted if it's raining.

If you're really into the idea, there's longer four-hour trips ($US100 excluding entry fees) which allow you to be involved with the habituation process.

TTours

Batwa TrailCULTURAL TOUR

(incl guide US$80)

These forest tours are led by the local Twa (Batwa), who explain how they used to live in the forest before they were forcibly removed from Mgahinga when it was turned into a national park. The 3½-hour tours include tales from Twa legend, demonstrations of day-to-day practices such as hunting and fire lighting, and a visit to the 342m-long Garama Cave, a historic residing spot of the Twa, where you’ll get a song-and-dance performance.

While at times it feels a bit contrived, the tour provides a much better insight to the Twa people than the often depressing village visits.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

JOHN MUGISHA: UWA RANGER

John Mugisha was born in a village 1km from Mgahinga and has worked as a ranger/guide in both Bwindi and Mgahinga national parks for over a decade.

What do you like about Mgahinga? Well it's a tropical rainforest that's only 33sq km, yet it has three volcanoes, the golden monkeys and mountain gorillas all in one!

Which volcano do you recommend to climb? My favourite volcano is Sabyinyo. In the local language Sabyinyo means 'old man's teeth' due to its jagged peaks. Up the top of the third peak not only will you be in three countries at once, but you can see all of the Virungas and other volcanoes in the DRC and Rwanda.

What about the golden monkeys? What is special about them is that here in Virunga are the only existing habituated groups in the world. So it's the only place where you can pause and view them in their natural habitat. It's a very rare species and is not found in any zoos. They have a beautiful golden colour and beautiful faces and are so playful and lovely.

What's the difference between seeing gorillas in Bwindi and Mgahinga? Mgahinga were the first gorillas to be habituated so they are very used to people. But the main difference is that in Mgahinga the gorillas are a bigger size, which people believe is because they eat bamboo here – which they don't in Bwindi.

Your most memorable experience? I very much like the gorillas. One day in Bwindi it rained so much while we were tracking the Nshongi group that the river became flooded, yet the gorillas wanted to cross. So we saw the silverback break a tree and carry it across and hold it down over the river so the others could cross safely. That was very nice. Another time when tracking gorillas in Mgahinga we unexpectedly encounted another (unhabituated) family who had crossed the border from Congo. The Congo group started fighting them and tried to overpower them, so 'our' group came to us rangers for protection, nestling behind us! The other group feared us and luckily ran away!

4Sleeping

Most people sleep in Kisoro, but there are two lovely choices just outside the park gate.

Amajambere Iwacu Community CampgroundCAMPGROUND

(%0782-306973, 0382-278464; www.mcdoa.org; camping with/without tent US$5/10, dm US$10, banda US$30)S

Right at the park's gate, this friendly and extremely peaceful camp – set up and run by the local community – has a variety of rooms with nice verandahs for relaxing. It's a good choice for those seeking a local experience, and has volunteer opportunities. Proceeds fund school projects in the area.

Mt Gahinga LodgeLODGE

(%0414-346464; www.volcanoessafaris.com; s/d incl full board US$236/285)

Set within a rocky garden that blends in beautifully with the natural surrounds, this luxury lodge oozes charm. The homestead-style cottages have volcano views, plenty of space, sofas and even their own fireplaces. Rates include alcohol and a massage – both perfect after a day's trekking.

8Getting There & Away

There’s no scheduled transport along the rough 14km track between Kisoro and the park headquarters. You can try to hitch, although traffic is light so it’s best to arrange a ride the night before.

A special-hire taxi (around USh60,000) or boda-boda (USh10,000 return) are the most straightforward way of getting to the park, but be prepared for a long rough, slippery ride if it's wet.

Lake Mutanda

This scenic lake lies just north of Kisoro and stretches not far south of Bwindi, making it a relaxing base for your gorilla trip. It's a pretty spot, with a misty Virunga backdrop comprising a string of volcanoes and a lake ringed by papyrus swamp, and is a good alternative for those who find Lake Bunyonyi overdeveloped. There are also dugout canoes for hire if you fancy a paddle; you don’t need to worry about hippos, crocodiles or bilharzia here.

It's easily accessible from Kisoro. The easiest, though not most direct, route is to head west to the hospital and then ask someone to show you which gap in the hills to cross. A boda-boda or special-hire taxi should cost USh5000 and USh20,000 respectively.

Lake Mutanda is also the starting point for eight-hour treks into Bwindi Impenetrable National Park with Nkuringo Walking Safaris.

4Sleeping

Mutanda Eco-Community CentreBUNGALOW

(%0772-435148; www.mcdoa.org/MECC.aspx; camping per tent US$6, dm US$10, cottage US$40)

Run by the local community, the delightfully simple stilted cabins (number 4 and 5 have excellent lake views) and grassy campground all blend beautifully into the surrounds. The staff will cook local food from USh7000 and rent you a dugout canoe (per hour US$10). It even has a small beach.

MuchaHOTEL

(%0755-700362; www.hotel-mucha.com; Bwindi Rd; s/d incl breakfast US$110/165; W)

While the idea of slick modern hotel rooms in such a pastoral setting is confounding, Mucha pulls it off. Choose between volcano views or creekside rooms. The European restaurant is a classy affair.

Mutanda Lake ResortLODGE

(%0789-951943; www.mutandalakeresort.com; s/d incl full board $US155/220; W)

In a superb location, plonked directly on the lake, this relaxed Dutch-owned resort has luxury tents raised on wooden platforms with lovely porches and polished wooden floorboards. It's within striking distance of gorillas at Nkuringo, Ruhaja and Mgahinga.

Chameleon Hill LodgeLODGE

(www.chameleonhill.com; s/d incl breakfast US$330/460; W)

Finally a lodge in Uganda that's trying something original, hilltop Chameleon provides a memorable first impression with a series of multicoloured surrealist chimney-stack buildings. The flair doesn't stop there, with plenty of arty touches and colour in its comfortable chalets, all with porches and soaring lake panoramas.

Mbarara

Pop 82,000

Mbarara is a large, gritty town that hosts many Ugandan business travellers. Unless you're an NGO or are wanting to break up your trip there's zero reason to stay here.

4Sleeping

Westland HotelHOTEL

(%0772-586769; Bananuka Dr; s/d with bathroom USh25,000/45,000, without bathroom USh15,000/21,000)

A construction project that just never ends, this labyrinth place offers passable budget rooms, but avoid ones on the bottom-end of the price scale.

Lake View Resort HotelHOTEL

(%0772-367972; www.lakeviewresorthotel.co.ug; s/d incl breakfast from US$65/80; iWs)

On the outskirts of town off the road to Kasese, this modern hotel sits in front of a tiny lake and is easily the best option in town.

8Getting There & Away

Departing from side-by-side parks, there are frequent buses and minibuses to Kampala (USh20,000, 4½ hours), Masaka (USh8000, 2½ hours) and Kabale (USh15,000, 3½ hours). For Kasese (USh13,000, three hours) and Queen Elizabeth National Park (Katunguru), jump on the daily Kalita bus at 11am. You can also catch the Kigali-bound buses that begin in Kampala.

WORTH A TRIP

HIGHWAY CULTURAL STOPS

Igongo Cultural CentreMUSEUM

(www.igongo.co.ug; 16km Mbarara-Masaka Rd; adult/child USh20,000/3000; h7.30am-10pm)

Located 12km from Mbarara on the road to Kampala, this new centre is worth a look. Set on the grounds of a former palace of the Ankole king, its quality museum explores the peoples of southwestern Uganda, particularly the Ankole, through artefacts, a cultural village replica and a heap of info. Also here is a restaurant serving traditional Ankole dishes, such as smoked Ankole cow milk and boiled meats.

There’s a great bookshop with an interesting selection of Ugandan reading material, and newly opened resort-style accommodation. Directly across from the centre is Biharwe Eclipse Monument atop Biharwe Hill. It was built to commemorate a victory for Ankole kingdom 500 years ago, following an eclipse that saw the invading king retreat in fear (and never return), spooked as day plunged into sudden darkness.

Great Lakes MuseumMUSEUM

(www.greatlakesmuseum.co.ug; adult/child USh5000/4000; h7.30am-8pm)

Along the highway on approach to Kabale, keep an eye out for this museum. It has a varied collection of artefacts and masks, information on clans, and more quirky items such as displays on the evolution of phones and cameras. The cafe selling Ugandan coffee offers accommodation and mountain-bike hire.

Lake Mburo National Park

The 370-sq-km Lake Mburo National Park (%0751-046904; adult/child US$40/20; h7am-6.30pm) is an increasingly common stop on the safari circuit as it’s the only place in southern Uganda to see zebras. It’s also the only park in the country with impalas, slender mongooses and giant bush rats, and is a great place to look for hyenas, leopards, topis and elands. Furthermore, it's rumoured giraffes will soon be introduced here. Lions are rarely sighted – it's thought there's only one left here. Some of the 325 species of bird include the martial eagle and red-faced barbet in the acacia-wooded savannah, and the papyrus yellow warbler and African finfoot in the wetlands.

Adjacent to the park are the ranches of the Bahima people, who herd the famed long-horned Ankole cattle, which are a common sight here (all too often inside as well as outside the park).

LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK

Why Go

Most accessible park to Kampala; zebras, elands and impala; healthy population of hippos and crocodiles; hyena nature walk; horseback safari.

When to Go

Year-round.

Practicalities

It's a 3½-hour drive from Kampala. Reservations for boat trips are recommended from June to August and in December.

Budget Tips

If you don't have your own vehicle, a combination of bus and boda-boda can get you to the park headquarters, from where activities can be arranged. There's also camping and affordable bandas.

2Activities

Launch Trip

The 1½-hour boat trips run by UWA are popular on Lake Mburo to get up close and personal with hippos, crocodiles and waterbirds. Trips cost US$15 per person and depart at 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm and 5.30pm. If there’s fewer than four people, prices rise to US$40 per person. Fishing permits (US$15) are also available, but you’ll need to bring your own equipment.

Wildlife Drives

Animals are most abundant in the south during the dry season (as this is where the permanent water is) and in the northeast in the wet season. Guides cost US$20; night drives (US$30 per person) are also possible.

Wildlife Walks

Lake Mburo has some good nature walks (US$30 per person, particularly the guided early morning hyena walk at 6.30am. The other popular pedestrian destination is an observation blind overlooking a salt lick. Both walks take two hours. Birdwatchers should enquire about the Rubanga forest, which has a closed canopy in some places and you may find birds not yet recorded on the park’s official list.

Horseback Safari

A novel way to explore the park is on horseback safari. Without the engine noise of a 4WD it’s a peaceful way to get around to see wildlife and the park’s lakes. Rides are booked through Mihingo Lodge and cost US$40 for one hour, US$100 for a half day and US$200 for a full day. can also arrange overnight and multiday trips.

LONG-HORNED ANKOLE

Sure there are the gorillas, the Big Five, and even shoebills, but one striking animal that also manages to turn heads, yet without getting its due credit, is the remarkable long-horned Ankole cow. Common in southwest Uganda, the domestic Ankole cow is pretty much your ordinary cow except for one notable feature – its extreme horns that reach out as long as 2m, with some extending up to 3.7m! Revered among many pastoralist indigenous groups as a status symbol, animal numbers are unfortunately on the decline, as farmers continue to abandon them in favour of more commercial breeds that yield more milk and meat.

The Names of Ankole Cows (2003) is a quirky book about these striking animals, available from Igongo Cultural Centre's bookshop.

4Sleeping & Eating

Rwonyo Rest CampBANDA, CAMPGROUND

(camping USh15,000, banda s/d/f without bathroom USh35,000/40,000/60,000, safari tents s/d USh30,000/40,000)

UWA's accommodation at the park headquarters has camping, simple bandas and safari tents on wooden platforms, all with shared bathroom facilities. Overall, it’s a very nice set-up with a classic park feel. They sell beers and drinks, but the closest food is 1.25km away at the Lakeside Restaurant or upmarket Arcadia Cottages; UWA can arrange a boda-boda for USh10,000.

UWA CampsitesCAMPGROUND

(camping per person USh15,000)

There are three campsites, but most opt for the attractive Lakeside Camp 2, located 1.25km from the park headquarters. It has the scenic Lakeside Restaurant (mains USh15,000-20,000; h7am-10pm), which is good if you can spare a long time to wait for your food. If you have your own vehicle, consider Kingfisher Campsite 3, which is more rustic. Be mindful of encounters with wildlife, particularly hippos.

Eagles Nest Lake MburoLODGE

(%0312-294894, 0777-820071; www.naturelodges.biz; s/d incl breakfast US$60/70)

Up the top of an impossibly steep hill outside the park, this new Dutch-owned lodge has memorable views out to Mburo's distant plains and lakes. Tented safari-style accommodation is simple, but fantastic value at these prices.

oMihingo LodgeLODGE

(%0752-410509; www.mihingolodge.com; s/d incl full board from US$360/500; Ws)

One of Uganda's best park lodges lies just outside Mburo's eastern border, with rustic tent-cottages spread along the ridge. All have amazing views, including some over a watering hole busy with zebras, impala and warthogs. Its luxurious pool also has views out to a salt lick. Another highlight of the lodge is its family of habituated bushbabies who are regular visitors at night. They also run horseriding safaris.

Rwakobo RockLODGE

(%0755-211771; www.rwakoborock.com; s/d incl full board US$150/250; W)S

It may officially be outside the park, but you'll feel well and truly immersed within, particularly with the soaring Mburo views from its namesake rock. Bandas are nestled away in the bush, while the thatched-roof restaurant has more views and excellent meals. It has good eco credentials too. Check the website for activities on offer including bike safaris, cultural walks and wildlife drive/walk combos.

Kimbla-Mantana Lake Mburo CampLODGE

(%0392-967368; www.kimbla-mantana.com; s/d incl full board US$220/330)

A classy camp offering luxury tents with commanding views of Lake Mburo (and sunsets behind the hills) available right from the hammocks on the big porches.

Arcadia CottagesLODGE

(%0486-26231; www.arcadiacottages.net/mburo; s/d incl full board US$150/220)

Near but not right on the lake, this camp features bright, attractive cottages that are a melange of concrete, canvas, wood and thatch. The small daily menu (USh20,000) always has something Italian on it; non-guests are welcome to dine here.

8Getting There & Away

There are two possible ways into the park from the main Masaka–Mbarara road.

Car

If you’re driving your own vehicle, it’s better to use the Nshara gate, 13km after Lyantonde because you’ll see much more wildlife on the drive in.

Special-Hire Taxi, Boda-Boda & Minibus

If you’re hoping to hitch in or arrange a special-hire taxi (USh60,000) or boda-boda (USh15,000), it’s best to use the route from the Sanga gate, 27km after Lyantonde and 40km from Mbarara. Minibus taxis to Sanga cost USh6000 from Mbarara (45 minutes) and USh10,000 from Masaka (two hours). It’s about a 25km drive to Rwonyo from either gate.

If you’re really rushed, Lake Mburo can be done as a day trip from Kampala. It’s about a 3½-hour drive each way. A bus to Kampala is USh17,000.