Where to Eat in Washington, D.C.
Finding the cuisine of your dreams is easy in Washington, where upward of 1,000(!) restaurants present a world’s choice of options, whether you crave sushi or a luscious boeuf bourguignon. Scoring a table can be the tricky part: Washingtonians dine out a lot. A LOT. Wheeler-dealers and socializing urbanistas fill restaurants throughout the city, from the U & 14th Street Corridors, where the newest and hottest eateries proliferate, to the White House neighborhood’s upscale fine dining establishments. Be sure to make a reservation, whenever possible. Two services are very helpful in booking a table: www.opentable.com and www.cityeats.com. Most D.C. restaurants belong to one or the other service, and some are registered with both. Use them.
The city is also notable for its casual dining, and often the food is as sensational in these places as at the higher priced D.C. restaurants. If you’re a fan of tacos, pizza, and burgers, you’ll love the appealing versions at Tacqueria Nacional (p. 75), Graffiato (p. 69), and Good Stuff Eatery (p. 66). Asian cuisine is increasingly a favorite, with newcomer Daikaya (p. 72) taking the popular lead. Bistros serving “small plates” of delicious tastes are clearly here to stay, no matter whether the cuisine is Mexican, as at Bandolero (p. 82), or the Middle Eastern mezze of Zaytinya (p. 72). Finally, you should know that a boisterous bar scene is now a dining-out fact of life. And it can get loud.
Good restaurants are in every neighborhood, and this chapter leads you to a range of options, spanning diverse cuisines and budget considerations.
Atlas District
Inexpensive
Ethiopic 
ETHIOPIAN According to the Ethiopian Embassy, approximately 200,000 Ethiopian émigrés live in the D.C. area, making it the largest Ethiopian community in the world, outside of Africa. Ethiopian cuisine, likewise, has found a place for itself in D.C.’s expansive dining scene, as immigrants eager to introduce Washingtonians to the authentic tastes of their country open restaurants here. In other words, if you’re already a fan of Ethiopian food or are curious to try it, D.C. is the place. And currently, Ethiopic is the best. Vegetarians, especially, rave about the vegetarian sampler: simmered collard greens; curried potatoes simmered with red onion, garlic, jalapeño pepper, olive oil, and herbs; split lentils in a spicy sauce; and yellow split peas cooked with onions and herbs. Located at the corner of H and 4th streets, it’s also a great people watching spot, as the restaurant overlooks both streets through front and side wall windowfronts (in good weather ask for sidewalk seating). In 2013, Ethiopic owners Samuel Ergete and Meseret Bekele decided to try something completely different: a European bakery/cafe. Open daily 8am to 8pm, Batter Bowl Bakery (www.the-bbb.com; 
202/675-2011) is located right next door at 403 H St. NE, and serves pastries and breads, as well as breakfast items, sandwiches, and salads. Prices range from $3.50 for Belgian waffles to $7.95 for an open-faced smoked salmon sandwich.
Keep in mind that the price categories refer to dinner prices, and that some very expensive restaurants offer affordable lunches, early-bird dinners, tapas, or bar meals. The prices within each review refer to the average cost of individual entrees, not the entire meal.
Expensive $20–plus
Moderate $10–$19
Inexpensive $10 and under
401 H St. NE (at 4th St.). www.ethiopicrestaurant.com. 
202/675-2066. Main courses $15–$24. Tues–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sun noon–10pm. Drive, take a taxi, or ride the streetcar from Union Station.
Sticky Rice SUSHI/THAI Turns out tater tots are a fabulous accompaniment to sushi, sashimi, noodles, and Sapporo beer. That’s one of the lessons learned at Sticky Rice, one of the older restaurants in the Atlas District (it’s been around for 6 years) but still one of the hottest. All sorts—girlfriend groups, families, couples, and hipsters full of attitude—flock to this sprawling, casual, three-storefront Asian eatery. Lesson #2? Entertainment along with food will keep a place popular. So when you head to Sticky Rice, expect all sorts of interesting things to be going on, like screenings of old Jamie Lee Curtis movies and karaoke nights. All of this doesn’t overshadow the food, which includes elaborately presented and fresh-tasting sushi; noodle dishes of all sorts (like one with a topping of spicy shrimp and coconut, or the noodles in a mock-chicken Szechuan entree that vegetarians love); and those terrific tater tots. Order a bucket ($8.50) for the table, or a side ($5) for two people, of either regular or sweet potato tots.
1224 H St. NE (btw. 12th and 13th sts.). www.stickyricedc.com. 202/397-7655. Main courses at lunch/dinner/brunch $14 and under. Sun–Wed 11:30am–10:30pm; Thurs–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Drive, take a taxi, or ride the streetcar from Union Station.
Capitol Hill & Barracks Row
Also see “Eating with the Insiders” box, p. 67.
Expensive
Johnny’s Half Shell 
AMERICAN/SEAFOOD Johnny’s offers the movers-and-shakers buzz of Capitol Hill, along with excellent crab cakes, soft shell crabs, and crabmeat imperial, all regional specialties. Expensive, yeah, but few restaurants serve soft shell crabs done just right as they are here, and sided with fresh corn spoonbread; and fewer still even offer crab imperial. If budget allows and you love seafood, put Johnny’s on your list. Of course there are ways to economize here: the appetizer crabcake, $17 at both lunch and dinner, is entree size, in my opinion. Or you could stop by at happy hour, 4:30 to 7:30pm weeknights, when the bar menu options range from $3 mini burgers to $14 crabcakes, and drinks are discounted, too. The folks behind Johnny’s have also opened a swell tacqueria (p. 75) in the U Street corridor area.
400 N. Capitol St. NW (at E St.). www.johnnyshalfshell.net. 202/737-0400. Main courses lunch $8.95–$35, dinner $18–$40. Mon–Fri, 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Happy hour Mon–Fri 4:30–7:30pm. Metro: Union Station (Massachusetts Ave. exit).
The Monocle AMERICAN Is the Monocle another branch of the U.S. government? It sometimes feels that way. Senators, representatives, Supreme Court justices, and their staffs often dine here at lunch and dinner, as they have since 1960, when The Monocle opened. (The Monocle backs up to Senate Office Building property.) Owner John Valanos, maitre’d Nick, and longtime staff greet frequent customers by name and with warmth, whether the patron is a lobbyist or a Senator. There’s no other place like it in the capital. The food’s pretty good, too. Usually the best picks are the specials, the salads (especially the Federal Salad and the BLT Salad), and the shrimp and asparagus orzo. Enjoy “Luncheon at the Bar,” served 11:30am to 3pm, for the best deal going: a pair of cheddar cheese and bacon-topped angus beef sliders for $6.50.
107 D St. NE. (at 2nd St.). www.themonocle.com. 202/546-4488. Main courses lunch $12–$35; dinner $16–$42. Mon–Fri 11:30am–midnight. Metro: Union Station (Massachusetts Ave. exit).
Moderate
Montmartre FRENCH When it opened down the street from Eastern Market in 2002, Montmartre stood out for being so good and so genuinely French. (Capitol Hill’s restaurant scene wasn’t much to speak of back then). Its wooden tables, yellow-splashed walls, ceiling fans, tiny bar, and sidewalk cafe looked like a little bistro you’d find in Paris. The French owner welcomed you and the chef served up French country specialties of duck confit, country pâté, hangar steak, braised rabbit, crème brulée, gratins of this and that. None of that has changed. Should you pop by without reservations and the place is full, you’ll be directed next door to Seventh Hill, Montmartre’s pizza bistro, which also serves fine salads, sandwiches, and soups.
327 7th St. SE (at Pennsylvania Ave.). www.montmartredc.com. 202/544-1244. Main courses brunch $11–$26, lunch $11–$25, dinner $19–$26. Tues–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sat–Sun 10:30am–3pm; Tues–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm; Sun 5:30–9pm. Metro: Eastern Market.
Ted’s Bulletin AMERICAN Ted’s Bulletin calls itself a family restaurant, and it is, but what you should be prepared for is that some of the “children” who come here are in their 20s and 30s and they’re drinking milkshakes laced with rum and raspberry schnapps (“Buzzed Berries”) or maybe vodka and Kahlúa (“Nutty Professor”). So it can get rowdy. What you’ll enjoy, besides the retro decor, is the well-done, comfort food menu: grilled cheese, tomato soup, creamed corn, mac and cheese, barbecued chicken, ribs, chili, sloppy joes, and breakfast items (which are served all day). Ted’s Bulletin is so popular that it opened a second location in summer of 2013 at 1818 14th St. NW ( 202/265-8337), in the U & 14th Street Corridors. One warning: Sometimes those waiting in line to get in have attitude problems (think the movie Mean Girls), so save yourself from possible aggravation by making a reservation.
505 8th St. SE (at E St.). www.tedsbulletin.com. 202/544-8337. Main courses breakfast $9–$13, lunch $10–$15, dinner $14–$25. Sun–Thurs 7am–10pm, Fri–Sat 7am—11pm. Metro: Eastern Market.
Inexpensive
Good Stuff Eatery AMERICAN This is the “baby” of Spike Mendelsohn, who shot to fame as a Top Chef contestant and remains renowned thanks to the scrumptiousness of his burgers, fries, and shakes. (Mendelsohn also currently hosts the reality TV show Midnight Feast.) The Prez Obama Burger (with applewood bacon, onion marmalade, Roquefort cheese, and horseradish mayo sauce) is the most popular item on the menu, according to the staff; but the toasted marshmallow milkshake will always be the #1 milkshake, to my mind. Spike’s other restaurants include the pizza place next door, although We The Pizza (www.wethepizza.com; 202/544-4008), good as its pies are, never gets the crowds that Good Stuff does. Go one more storefront past We The Pizza and you reach Bearnaise (315 Pennsylvania Ave. SE; www.bearnaiserestaurant.com; 202/450-4800), the French bistro that Spike opened with his sister Micheline in late June 2013. A second Good Stuff Eatery is located in Georgetown at 3291 M St. NW; this location, unlike Capitol Hill’s, is open daily, including Sundays. Warning: Good Stuff Eatery is always jumping, with people in line on the first floor and filling upstairs and outdoor patio tables. The line moves fast and table turnover is fairly quick, but just the same, you might consider getting the burgers to go, as so many do.
You just can’t beat the atmosphere (political) and value (cheap—your meal isn’t taxed!) of the all-American food served in dining spots inside the Capitol, its office buildings, and the Supreme Court. Keep these places in mind while touring the Hill:
The Supreme Court and its Cafeteria (
202/479-3246), where you may spy a famous lawyer or member of the press but not any of the justices, who have their own dining room. The cafeteria is open weekdays 7:30am to 4pm (though it may be closed briefly between noon and 1pm to accommodate Supreme Court employees).
The House of Representatives’ immense, full-service Rayburn Café ( 202/226-9067), which is Room B357, in the basement of the Rayburn House Office Building, at 1st Street and Independence Avenue SW. Adjoining the cafeteria is a carryout that sells pizza and sandwiches.
The Longworth Café (in the Longworth Building’s Basement, Independence Ave. and S. Capitol St. SE; 202/225-6372), where you can grab a bite from a fairly nice food court.
Southside Buffet (in the Dirksen Senate Office Building, 1st St. and Constitution Ave. NW; 202/224-4249) The fried chicken, a carvery station, and a dessert station are highlights and popular among the Senate staffers who dine here.
All of the House and Senate eateries are open weekdays only. The carryouts usually stay open until late afternoon, while the other dining rooms close at 2:30pm. For a complete listing of House of Representatives dining services, go to http://go.compass-usa.com/house/content/menus.asp, and for Senate dining services, go to http://go.compass-usa.com/senate/content/menus.asp.
A final, less insidery suggestion:
The Capitol Visitor Center’s ( 202/593-1785) mammoth dining hall, which is open 8:30am to 4pm Monday through Saturday, seats 530 people and serves “meals and snacks that reflect the diverse bounty of America,” which translates into the usual hamburgers and hot dogs, croissants and bagels, pizza and pasta, but also specialty sandwiches associated with different pockets of the country, like the New England lobster roll and the Chesapeake crab cake. You won’t see any members of Congress or other political types at the CVC restaurant, but you’ll be dining in good company with fellow tourists.
303 Pennsylvania Ave. SE (at 3rd St.). www.goodstuffeatery.com. 202/543-8222. Reservations not accepted. Burgers $6–$9; milkshakes and sundaes $4–$6. Mon–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Metro: Capitol South.
Le Bon Café AMERICAN/CAFE Is Le Bon Café truly French? I wouldn’t say so. The menu includes French cafe staples, like a croque monsieur, quiche, and croissants, but they’re Americanized versions, and the rest of the menu includes things like tandoori chicken wraps and smoked turkey club sandwiches. A little bit of this, little bit of that. That being said, I can vouch for the tastiness of Le Bon Café’s offerings, great value for the price. And it’s conveniently located right behind the Madison Building of the Library of Congress, a short walk from the Capitol. Look for the blue-and-white striped awning shading a cluster of round tables outside. Inside are about eight marble-topped bistro tables and, usually, a line of Hill staffers and locals from the neighborhood waiting to place their orders. FYI: If you prefer diner fare and livelier local color, head right next door to Pete’s Diner and Carryout.
210 2nd St. SE (at Pennsylvania Ave. SE). www.leboncafedc.com. 202/547-7200. Breakfast items $2–$5; salads/sandwiches/soups $5–$9. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat 8am–3pm; Sun 8:30am–2pm. Metro: Capitol South.
Market Lunch AMERICAN/SEAFOOD Market Lunch, like Eastern Market (p. 90), where it resides, is an institution, a little slice of D.C. life. For the best insider experience, come here on weekends and you’ll see senators and representatives in line with their Capitol Hill neighbors to eat the famous blueberry buckwheat pancakes (“bluebucks”), softshell crab sandwiches, or crabcakes. The eatery consists of a few small tables and 26 stools pulled up to a wooden counter at the end of Eastern Market’s main hall. You choose what you want from the chalkboard menu and then queue to the right of the register to place your order. Once you’re seated, you get to watch all that’s going on in the market hall, as vendors and residents barter and chat. Market Lunch is open weekdays, too, but is a much quieter experience, so not nearly as much fun.
225 E. 7th St. SE, inside Eastern Market (at Pennsylvania Ave. SE). www.easternmarket-dc.org. 202/547-8444. Breakfast items $5–$13; lunch items $5–$20. Cash only. Tues–Fri 7:30am–2:30pm; Sat 8am–3pm; Sun 9am–3pm. Metro: Capitol South.
Downtown & Penn Quarter
Expensive
Central Michel Richard FRENCH BISTRO Michel Richard opened Central in 2007 and it promptly won the 2008 James Beard Award for best new restaurant. Seven years later the bistro still has that special something, even if the big man himself is seldom in the kitchen (the chef has restaurants in NYC and Las Vegas, too). A great Penn Quarter location on Pennsylvania Avenue, a generous bar, a menu that speaks to both French and American cultures (devilled eggs, croque monsieurs, fried chicken, mussels in white wine with garlic, hot dogs, trout almandine), and voila! Central is It. And the place is always full. Diners complain about the loudness of the dining room, but noise seems to be a fact of life when eating out in D.C. nowadays. At Central, the commotion signifies the happy time that most are enjoying. A couple of tips: For best value, order from the $21 three-course lunch special menu, or stop by the bar and lounge on weeknights from 5 to 6:30pm, and choose items from the bar menu, from $3 for a slider to $8 for fried chicken nuggets.
1001 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at 11th St.). www.centralmichelrichard.com. 202/626-0015. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch $14–$30, dinner $17–$34. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Metro: Metro Center (12th and F sts. exit).
Fiola 
ITALIAN For a splash-out D.C. dining experience, book a table at Fiola, a favorite among the glitterati, but also locals who simply love inventive Italian cuisine and lively atmosphere. With its wide swath of bar at the front, white banquettes, and modern art, the dining room has a glamorous, head-turning, New York feel about it, maybe informed by chef Fabio Trabocchi’s stint there not so long ago. But it’s got a friendly vibe, too, helped along by Trabocchi’s charming wife, Maria, who is usually on the scene. The main event is the seasonal Italian cuisine, which might include lobster ravioli in cream sauce, goat cheese fritters, lasagna with morels and truffles, or arugula salad with figs. The main menu changes frequently—and the variety of menus is always changing, too. There’s a real sense that Fabio and Maria are having fun as they create the light “Maria’s Lunch” menu, “Presto! Lunch@Fiola Bar for Busy Professionals,” “Bar Bites” menu, a special menu for Valentine’s Day, and a menu to celebrate spring. Also consider the Trabocchis’ casual Italian restaurant, Casa Luca, at 1099 New York Ave. NW, in the Penn Quarter, and an Italian seafood eatery, Fiola Mare (p. 80), in Georgetown’s waterfront complex, Washington Harbour.
601 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (entrance on Indiana Ave., btw. 6th and 7th sts.). www.fioladc.com. 202/628-2888. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $16–30, $28 prix-fixe light lunch menu, and $18 prix-fixe business lunch menu; dinner main courses $18–$44, 4-course tasting menu $85, 6-course tasting menu $105. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–10:30pm; Fri 5:30–11:30pm; Sat 5–11:30pm. Metro: Archives–Navy Memorial or Gallery Place/Verizon Center (7th and F sts. exit).
Moderate
Graffiato ITALIAN The chef/owner of Graffiato is Mike Isabella, of Top Chef fame, and you’ll understand why he was the runner-up on Top Chef All-Stars after dining here. He knows how to take classic Italian dishes and up the ante. At Graffiato, his pizzas are topped with gourmet ingredients, like fried calamari and cherry pepper aioli (“The Jersey Shore”), and then cooked in a woodburning oven, just as good pizza should be. In addition, Graffiato serves flavorful small plates: charred asparagus with hazelnuts, wild striped bass with bourbon peaches, sweet corn agnolotti—you get the picture. Best seats in the two floor restaurant are upstairs at the “ham counter” in front of the open kitchen, or downstairs at the back bar, where you can watch pizzas come and go from the oven. And the restaurant’s location can’t be beat: right across from the Verizon Center, in Chinatown. If you like Graffiato, you might want to know about Isabella’s other jumpin’ joints: In the U & 14th Street Corridors, the Greek restaurant Kapnos (2201 14th St. NW) and right next door, G (“Sandwich Shop by Day, Tasting Menu by Night”).
707 6th St. NW (at G St.) www.graffiatodc.com. 202/289-3600. Pizzas $13–$18, small plates $9–$14 each. Sun–Wed 11:30am–10pm; Thu–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Metro: Judiciary Square (F St. exit) or Gallery Place–Chinatown (7th and F sts. exit).
Hill Country Barbecue Market BARBECUE Enter Hill Country Barbecue and you leave both hip D.C. and official Washington at the door. It’s just not possible to cleave to lofty attitudes and politicking when the Red Dirt Rangers or some such band are playing up a storm, as you make your way through a mess of dry-rubbed Texas barbecued ribs (“smoked low and slow over Texas oak”), skillet corn bread, and sweet potato bourbon mash. Upstairs is where you place your order in the cafeteria/kitchen, and then carry it to your seat, either in the large dining room adjoining the cafeteria, or to your table downstairs. I recommend the downstairs. That’s where the bands play and where the lively Boots Bar is. The restaurant often hosts summer “backyard barbecues” on the lawn of the nearby National Building Museum (p. 133), selling barbecued pulled pork or chicken sandwiches or hot dogs, plus a side, for $12. Cocktails and sodas are also for sale. In 2014, the barbecues took place Thursday from 4pm to 9pm, and bands performed Thursday through Saturday, 5:30 to 8:30pm.
410 7th St. NW (at D St.). www.hillcountrywdc.com. 202/556-2050. Main courses $8.50–$29. Daily 11:30am–2am (kitchen closes 10pm Sun–Thurs, 11pm Fri–Sat; late-night menu available to 1am). Metro: Archives–Navy Memorial or Gallery Place–Chinatown (7th and F sts. exit).
Jaleo SPANISH Jaleo, at age 22, is ancient in terms of restaurant years, but she sure doesn’t act it . . . or look it. A creative re-design in 2012 added artwork by contemporary Spanish artists, foosball tables with chairs made from Vespa scooter seats, “love tables” closed off by metal curtains, and whimsical touches everywhere, even in the restrooms, where photographed faces smile up at you from the floor. Chef extraordinaire José Andrés is 22 years older as well, and in that time has grown into a culinary and personal phenomenon, with restaurants here (Zaytinya, p. 72, and Oyamel, p. 71, as well as the chef’s unique and avant garde dining experience, minibar by José Andrés) and elsewhere, a cooking show, courses at Harvard, and a number of cookbooks. But it all started here at Jaleo, when Andrés introduced his versions of Spanish tapas to the capital. Andrés or his staff may fiddle with the menu of some 60 individual small plates, but you always know you’re enjoying the best tapas in the city (some say in the country, and some of the best dining in D.C). Look for fried dates wrapped in bacon and served with an apple-mustard sauce; mini-burgers made from the “legendary, acorn-fed, black-footed Iberico pigs of Spain”; and roasted sweet onions, pine nuts, and Valdeón blue cheese. Be adventurous.
480 7th St. NW (at E St.). www.jaleo.com. 202/628-7949. Tapas $5–$18; “big plates” and paellas also available $34–$65; tasting menus: $55 (classic), $70 (the Jaleo Experience), $95 (Jose’s Way); pretheater menu (Sun–Thurs 5–6:30pm) $30. Sun 11am–10pm, Mon 11:30am–10pm; Tues–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri 11:30am–midnight; Sat 11am–midnight. Metro: Archives–Navy Memorial or Gallery Place–Chinatown (7th and F sts. exit).
Kushi Izakaya & Sushi JAPANESE The effortlessly jaunty Kushi is part grill room, sushi bar, sake pub, and oyster house. Its enormous dining room serves up seared fatty salmon negiri, skewered duck breast, grilled oysters, and the like, as well as performances of sushi chefs and grill masters in their open kitchens. You can sit at counters in front of different work areas and be entertained while you dine on small plates of sushi, as well as grilled meats, vegetables, and seafood. Thoroughly Japanese, from paper lanterns to hachimaki head wraps, Kushi draws Japanese expats and youngish others for this lively taste of cuisine and culture. (FYI: Kushi lies in the Mount Vernon Triangle, just outside the Penn Quarter, but close enough to be considered in the same geographic discussion.)
465 K St. NW (at 5th St). www.eatkushi.tumblr.com. 202/682-3123. Reservations recommended. Sushi and small plates $3–$18 Sun–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sun noon–2:30pm; Sun 5-10pm, Mon–Thurs 5–11pm; Fri–Sat 5–midnight. Metro: Mt. Vernon Square or Gallery Place/Chinatown (H St./Chinatown exit).
Matchbox PIZZA/AMERICAN Look for the flickering flame above the restaurant entrance and the line queuing up in front of it. That line could be people waiting for a table—Matchbox is awfully popular, and there’s not a lot of extra space inside for hanging out. Then again, it could be the line for the Chinatown bus, which happens to pick up New York–bound passengers at this exact spot. The sight of those lines may have prompted the owners to finally accept reservations; better yet for last-minute types, you can call ahead and put your name on the list, which reduces your wait time when you arrive. Matchbox won early acclaim for its thin-crust pizzas cooked in 900°F wood-fired brick ovens (try the spicy meatball with crispy bacon and crushed red pepper), its appetizer of mini burgers on toasted brioche topped with onion “straws” (skinny fried onion strands), its chopped salad, and entrees like the honey miso salmon, and diners keep coming back for more. Saturday and Sunday brunch is big, too. This Matchbox is the original; look for other locations on Barracks Row (521 8th St. SE) and in the U & 14th Street Corridors (1901 14th St. NW).
713 H St. NW (btw. 7th and 8th sts.). www.matchboxchinatown.com. 202/289-4441. Reservations accepted. Main courses $16–$29; pizzas and sandwiches $13–$23; brunch $6–$15. Mon–Thurs 11am–10:30pm; Fri 11am–11:30pm; Sat 10am–11:30pm; Sun 10am–10:30pm Metro: Gallery Place–Chinatown (H and 7th sts. exit).
Old Ebbitt Grill AMERICAN It’s midnight and you’re starving. Where are you gonna go? Or maybe it’s 8am and you want to get a good jump on the day ahead. Who serves a full breakfast at this hour not too far from the National Mall? Or you want a taste of both the capital’s regional dishes and insider’s culture. Who brings that to the table? It’s the Ebbitt.
Old Ebbitt is that rare place that attracts tourists and the city’s movers and shakers in equal numbers. It could so easily be a tourist trap, with its saloon decor and old-fashioned ambience, only it’s not fake. Old Ebbitt has been around since 1856, first in another nearby location, and here since 1983, and some of its furnishings date from the early days. Regulars come here precisely because they find the atmosphere genuinely comfortable. Those regulars, by the way, include Secret Service agents, as well as the people they’re protecting; hotshot attorneys from nearby law firms; and politicos visiting the White House a block away.
It’s comforting to have a conveniently located place that’s nearly always open, with four capacious bars and a menu that’s known for its untrendy dishes, like the burgers, the trout parmesan, and the house pasta, which is stuffed with spinach, mortadella ham, and three cheeses and baked in a cream sauce. Oysters are the standout, among the best and freshest in town. (Daily 3–6pm and after 11pm, all raw bar items are half off.)
675 15th St. NW (btw. F and G sts.). www.ebbitt.com. 202/347-4800. Reservations recommended. Main courses breakfast $13–$23, brunch $15–$20, lunch and dinner $15–$22; late night: $9–$26. Mon–Fri 7:30am–1am; Sat–Sun 8:30am–1am. Bar until 2am Sun–Thurs, until 3am Fri–Sat. Metro: Metro Center (13th and F sts. exit).
Oyamel LATIN AMERICAN/MEXICAN Oyamel is another of José Andrés’s “small plates” restaurants (see Jaleo, above, and Zaytinya, below). Another winning one, I should add. First thing you do is order a margarita and the guacamole, so you can sip and munch on dipped chips while mulling over the list of antojitos, or Mexican “little dishes from the streets.” Need some suggestions? Try the ceviche (marinated seafood salad), papas al moles (fried potatoes in an almond and chili sauce with a touch of chocolate), house specialty chapulines (sauteed grasshoppers!), and quesadilla de chicharrones (fried pork belly in a tortilla with cheese and chile sauce). This may sound like a lot of food, but remember these are small plates meant to share. Oyamel’s carnival atmosphere is part of the fun. Window-fronted on two sides, Oyamel overlooks the Penn Quarter’s busiest artery, 7th Street; sit at the miniscule ceviche bar in the southwest pocket of the restaurant and you’re in the best spot for people-watching, inside and out.
401 7th St. NW (at D St.). www.oyamel.com. 202/628-1005. Limited reservations. Main courses lunch and dinner $9–$19, brunch $6–$14; small plates and tacos $4–$13. Sun–Wed 11:30am–midnight; Thurs–Sat 11:30am–2am. Metro: Gallery Place–Chinatown (7th and F sts. exit) or Archives–Navy Memorial.
Rasika INDIAN Try to get a reservation here, I dare you. It’s not that it’s impossible, but you do have to book far in advance. Here’s why you’d want to: Rasika serves exquisite modern Indian food (Chef Vikram Sunderam won the prestigious James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic region, in 2014) in an intimate, soft-lit, shimmering, champagne-hued setting, that’s frequented by a who’s who of the Capitol and the world beyond. Simple as that. Its specialties are griddle, open barbecue, tandoori, and regional dishes; I personally find the palak chaat (crisped spinach in a yogurt sauce) irresistible, as is the honey ginger duck and the tandoori salmon. Intrigued? Better get out your calendar. You can dine in the bar/lounge without advanced reservations but that, too, is usually pretty full and the lounge seating too low for comfortable eating. Rasika has a sister in the West End, at 1190 New Hampshire Ave. NW (www.rasikarestaurant.com/westend; 202/466-2500). It serves a similar menu, but the restaurant is larger and doesn’t have the same vibe as the Penn Quarter location.
633 D St. NW (btw. 6th and 7th sts.). www.rasikarestaurant.com. 202/637-1222. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$28; pretheater menu $35. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–10:30pm; Fri 5:30–11pm; Sat 5–11pm. Lounge stays open throughout the day serving light meals. Metro: Archives–Navy Memorial or Gallery Place/Verizon Center (7th and F sts. exit).
Zaytinya GREEK/TURKISH/MIDDLE EASTERN When it opened in 2002, Zaytinya, with its full-on, authentic, and wide-ranging tastes of the Middle East, Greece, and Turkey, was quite the culinary adventure for Washingtonians. (Crispy brussel sprouts with coriander seed, barberries, and garlic, oh my! Olive oil ice cream. How interesting!) But Washington was a different place then. Thirteen years and a boom of restaurant openings later, Zaytinya is an old friend. Those Brussels sprouts are a favorite among the dishes that appear on the four-page menu, which, in truth, has barely changed over the years. It consists, primarily, of mezze, which are Mediterranean small dishes, although some entrees appear as well. Other signature dishes include scallops in yogurt and dill sauce; roasted cauliflower with sultans, caper berries, and pine-nut puree; spanakopita with house made filo; and kibbeh nayeh (Lebanese-style beef tartare with bulgur wheat, radishes, mint, and pita chips). Zaytinya is enormous, seating 230 in the attractive dining rooms, another 52 on stools at the bar, and 65 outside on the patio. Best way to enjoy Zaytinya? Bring a crowd and order an array of tapas. Instant party!
701 9th St. NW (at G St.). www.zaytinya.com. 202/638-0800. Reservations recommended. Mezze items $6–$14; brunch items $6–$7. Sun–Mon 11:30am–10pm; Tues–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. Metro: Gallery Place–Chinatown (9th St. exit).
Inexpensive
Daikaya JAPANESE Asian cuisine, especially Japanese, is all the rage in Washington, with Daikaya being one of the top go-to hotspots. Located right next door to another local favorite, Graffiato (see p. 69), you’ll know you’ve found Daikaya when you spot the enormous steel screen with wavelike cutouts covering the facade. The restaurant is an upstairs/downstairs affair—two different places with two separate entrances—but both offering authentic Japanese specialties. Downstairs is the ramen noodle house, a 40-seat, sparsely decorated joint that lets you concentrate on slurping up one of four broths, meat-based or vegetable, filled with aged wheat noodles and topped with a bouquet of briefly stir-fried garnishes. On the second floor, which you reach via an outside staircase to the left of the ramen house, is the larger izakaya, or Japanese tavern. This dimly lit bar and grill’s decorative woodwork and Japanese fabrics lend an exotic feel, which tastes from the menu only amplify. You might try grilled avocado with fresh wasabi, crab croquettes, miso cod with pickled carrot, monk fish liver, and finally everyone’s favorite, the seaweed-covered rice balls, whose center holds a kind of sticky rice stew. Both upstairs and downstairs are always crowded, always noisy, always a thrill.
705 6th St. NW (at G St.). www.daikaya.com. 202/589-1600. Ramen noodle soups $10–$14; Japanese small plates $2–$12. Ramen noodle house Sun–Mon 11:30am–11pm, Tues–Thurs 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. Upstairs izakaya Sun 11:30am–3pm, Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm, Mon 5–10pm, Tues–Thurs 5–11pm, Fri–Sat 5pm–midnight. Metro: Gallery Place (H St./Chinatown exit).
Five Guys Burgers and Fries AMERICAN Five Guys is taking over the world! Yeah, I know it’s a chain, but it’s our chain, a family operation that got started in Arlington 29 years ago. At last count, Five Guys had more than 1,200 of its joints in 48 states, Canada, and the U.K. You’ve got your hamburgers, cheeseburgers, bacon burgers, and bacon cheeseburgers, all of which come in two sizes; assorted hot dogs; a veggie sandwich and a grilled cheese for vegetarians; and your choice of regular or Cajun-style fries. One immediate difference between Five Guys and most other popular burgeries, like D.C.’s Good Stuff Eatery (p. 66), is the absence of a “magic sauce.” You do get to add as many as 15 toppings, grilled onions to tomatoes, for free. D.C. currently has ten Five Guys, including this Penn Quarter/Chinatown location.
808 H St. NW (at 9th St.). www.fiveguys.com. 202/393-2900. Burgers $4–$7; fries $2–$5. Daily 11:30am–10pm. Metro: Gallery Place (H St./Chinatown exit).
Midtown
Moderate
Bombay Club INDIAN Located directly across Lafayette Square from the White House, Bombay Club has been a favorite of one administration after the other since it opened in 1988. This was Ashok Bajaj’s first restaurant in D.C., and though he has added other well-reviewed dining rooms since, most notably Rasika (above), Bombay Club is special, a gracious veteran that seems to appeal to everyone. A pianist plays nightly in the dining room, which is decorated in hues of pale pink and yellow. You don’t have to be Indian to appreciate the cuisine (although the Indians I know say it is the real thing). Among the popular dishes are the crispy spinach and arugula chaat, a savory snack served with date-tamarind chutney; the chicken tikka, prepared with coriander, cumin, garlic, black pepper, and yogurt; and tandoor-oven roasted eggplant served with sauteed onions, ginger, and yogurt. If you like spicy, try the chili- and ginger-infused duck kebab appetizer. To sample an assortment of tastes, order a house thali.
815 Connecticut Ave. NW (H St.). www.bombayclubdc.com. 202/659-3727. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$32; Sun brunch $21. Mon–Fri and Sun brunch 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5:30–9pm. Metro: Farragut West (17th St. exit).
Sweetgreen LIGHT FARE Sweetgreen was the brainchild of three eco-conscious Georgetown University students who wanted to provide homegrown, healthy options for their neighbors. Today, these eateries are popping up all over town, and in other cities, too. The eatery “sources local and organic ingredients from farmers we know” to create seasonal salads and wraps. Choose one of the eight or so signature salads (my fave: the kale Caesar with roasted chicken) or create your own using organic greens and all sorts of interesting fresh ingredients, like spicy pickles and roasted sweet potatoes. All Sweetgreens favor the same modern and streamlined look, but size and seating capacity vary greatly. This location has seating for about 14 inside and 40 more on the sidewalk in pleasant weather. Note: Teaism (p. 78) has a location at 800 Connecticut Ave. NW, that presents another excellent option for healthy dining in, or for a carryout picnic lunch (weekdays only, and it closes at 5:30pm).
1901 L St. NW (at 19th St.). www.sweetgreen.com. 202/331-3355. Salads $7–$12; yogurt $4–$6. Mon–Fri 10:30am–8pm. Metro: Farragut North (L St. exit).
U & 14th Street Corridors
The trendiest restaurants in the city are right here, making 14th Street especially, and U Street to a lesser extent, D.C.’s “Restaurant Row.” Many of the hottest eateries don’t take reservations, so if you’re in the right mood, ready to go with the flow, wander here, stopping in at the excellent Spanish tapas bistro, Estadio, or at the lively seafood joint, Pearl Dive Oyster Palace (see below), until you find the right place at the right time. And if you’re not in the mood to wander? Some restaurants do take reservations.
Expensive
Le Diplomate FRENCH How hot is Le Diplomate? So hot that in the middle of a frigid winter when temperatures were in the twenties, diners were taking seats at the sidewalk tables. There were heat lamps, but still. Reservations are harder to book here than anywhere else in town, and it’s been like that since the restaurant opened in April 2013. It looks the part of a Parisian brasserie, right down to the red banquettes, large mirrors, zinc-topped bar, little lace curtains, and windowfront opening to the sidewalk. And it tastes the part, too, with its menu of Gallic staples, from escargots to steak frites to trout almandine to crème brulee. Le Diplomate is big and loud and fun, and though I wouldn’t call it romantic, myself, others obviously do; I’ve noticed lots of couples, including May-December types, and there’s a lot of kissing going on.
1601 14th St. NW (at Q St.). www.lediplomatedc.com. 202/332-3333. Reservations accepted. Lunch and brunch main courses $12–$28; dinner main courses $13–$35 (most around $25). Sat–Sun 9:30am–5pm; Sun–Tues 5–10pm; Wed–Thurs 5–11pm; Fri–Sat 5pm–midnight. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th St. exit).
Moderate
Cork AMERICAN If I lived in this neighborhood, I would probably hang out here all the time. It’s a cozy little wine bar with 160 bottles on offer (most from unusual, small producers), and a whopping 50 wines by the glass. And because wine always tastes better with food, the menu features about 20 dishes nightly, half cold, half hot, meant to be shared. Cheese and charcuterie; carrot and marcona almond salad with golden raisins and toasted cumin; a pan-crisped brioche sandwich of prosciutto, fontina, and Path Valley egg; and french fries tossed with parsley, garlic, and lemon always seem to be available, and you should order them, as they’re delish. Consider the nightly specials, too, which on my last visit included a memorably rich moussaka. Cork was a pioneer when it opened in 2008, but just these few years later, the neighborhood has more eateries and bars than one can keep up with. Nothing like Cork, though. By the way, if you like a particular wine, you can buy it across the street at Cork Market and Tasting Room, 1805 14th St. NW ( 202/265-2674).
1720 14th St. NW (at S St.). www.corkdc.com. 202/265-2675. Reservations accepted. Brunch items and dinner small plates $5–$15. Sun 11am–3pm and 5pm–10pm; Tues–Wed 5pm–midnight; Thurs–Sat 5pm–1am. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th St. exit).
Pearl Dive Oyster Palace AMERICAN/SEAFOOD The Kitchen at Pearl’s turns out some of the city’s best oyster dishes, appropriately enough, including the oyster po’ boy (cornmeal-fried oysters, house pickles, and aioli), oyster gumbo, and something called mariscos de Campechana, which is a stack of oyster, blue crab and shrimp, salsa, and avocado. But you don’t have to be a bivalve lover to come here: excellent non-oyster dishes include wood-grilled redfish and grass fed hanger steak. The only downside (which will be an upside for some): the crowd of rambunctious 20-something patrons who fill Pearl Dive’s gated front patio, like children in a playpen. Know that the dining room, with its nautical theme and friendly waitstaff, is a perfectly civilized place to eat, once you walk through the rowdy bar crowd.
1612 14th St. NW. www.pearldivedc.com. 202/319-1612. Reservations not accepted. Brunch main courses $9–$19, dinner main courses $14–$27. Fri–Sun 11am–3pm, Sun–Mon 5–10pm, Tues–Sat 5–11pm. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th St. exit).
Inexpensive
Ben’s Chili Bowl AMERICAN Ben’s opened in 1958 and it looks like it, too, with its old-fashioned storefront, Formica counters, and red bar stools. Its staying power is impressive enough, but Ben’s history is also compelling: When riots broke out throughout the city following the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. in April 1968, Ben’s stayed open to serve police officers, firefighters, and anyone who needed sustenance, even as surrounding establishments closed or were destroyed.
On that basis alone, a visit to Ben’s is warranted, and some locals do continue to stop by out of an ongoing respect for the place, and for the Ali family who own it. Walls are hung with photographs that cover the history of the city and of Ben’s, and include snapshots of the many celebrities who’ve dined here, from President Obama to Mary J. Blige.
Of course, most folks go to Ben’s for the food, which is ultra cheap and usually tasty. Most famous is the half-smoke sandwich, which is a 1⁄4-pound, half-beef, half-pork smoked sausage, served inside a warm bun, and, if you so desire, smothered with mustard, chopped onions, and a spicy chili sauce. I went to Ben’s recently with a friend and tried the half-smoke for the first time. And though it is near sacrilege in this city to admit it, I didn’t care for it. My friend, who ordered the half-smoke plus cheese fries, says it’s because I chose not to top off my half-smoke with the chili sauce and onions. Maybe. What I enjoy most at Ben’s are other items on the menu, like the flavorful turkey burger sub and the vegetarian chili (vegetarians take note: Ben’s has a few veggie-friendly options). Ben’s has locations now at Nationals Ballpark and at National Airport.
1213 U St. NW (btw. 12th and 13th sts.). www.benschilibowl.com. 202/667-0909. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $3–$10. No credit cards (there’s an ATM here). Mon–Thurs 6am–2am; Fri 6am–4am; Sat 7am–4am; Sun 11am–11pm. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th St. exit).
Tacqueria Nacional MEXICAN Johnny’s Half Shell (p. 63), on Capitol Hill, long had a little taco joint operating on the side, or more literally, behind Johnny’s, tucked inside an office building. In 2013, Johnny’s owners, Ann Cashion and John Fulchino, bestowed real restaurant status upon their popular tacqueria, took over a former post office on this side street in the U & 14th Street Corridors, and decorated the interior with beautiful Mexican tiles and grillwork, an old chandelier, and a vision of the Blessed Mother painted upon a worn plaster wall. It seats 45 max at a jumble of brightly colored tables, so from the moment it opens, the tacqueria stays busy. The menu is short but affordable, featuring fresh, authentic tacos and custom-made quesadillas and tostadas. Yucca fries, salads, guacamole, and other sides are available. (Personally, I think the guacamole could be a little spicier, and I’m a wuss when it comes to hot stuff, so that’s saying something.) Saturday/Sunday brunch (breakfast quesadilla, huevos rancheros, and Mexican fritters) is also a big hit. The beverage list is mostly nonalcoholic but does include draft beer and a $5.95 margarita.
1409 T St. NW (at 14th St.). www.tacquerianacional.com. 202/299-1122. Reservations not accepted. All items: $3–$8. Sun 10am–10pm; Mon–Wed 11am–10pm; Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri 11am–midnight; Sat 10am–midnight. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th St. exit) or take the D.C. Circulator.
Adams Morgan
Moderate
Las Canteras LATIN AMERICAN/PERUVIAN This little sleeper of a restaurant is not about trendiness, thankfully. Instead, Las Canteras introduces diners to the delights of Peruvian culture in the form of food, drinks, and atmosphere. Chef/co-owner Eddy Ancasi is from southern Peru and has decorated his intimate dining room and downstairs bar with photographs of scenes from modern Peru and with colorful handcrafts of local Peruvian artisans. His menu spans both traditional and contemporary Peruvian cuisine, but I’d recommend you go the traditional route: a pisco sour cocktail to start, followed by cebiche (fresh white fish marinated in citrus, and garnished with sweet potatoes, roasted corn, and red onions), and lomo saltado (morsels of beef wok-fried in soy sauce and served with garlic rice and French fries). Try happy hour Tuesday through Friday 5 to 7:30pm or the three-course $24 early bird special Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 7pm for best value.
2307 18th St. NW (at Kalorama Rd.). www.lascanterasdc.com. 202/265-1780. Main courses brunch $8–$13, lunch $12–$19, dinner $12–$23. Tues–Fri 11am–3pm; Tues–Thurs and Sun 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sat–Sun brunch noon–5pm. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo, with a walk.
Inexpensive
Amsterdam Falafelshop MIDDLE EASTERN/DUTCH Inspired by the falafel shops of Holland, the owners opened their own D.C. version in 2004, a second location in 2013 in the U & 14th Street Corridors at 1830 14th St. NW, and franchises recently in Annapolis, MD, and in Boston. If you’re out clubbing in the neighborhood, do what D.C.’s barhoppers do and stop here for a snack at 2, 3, even 4am. The shop does a steady business all day among people who just love these toasted pita sandwiches stuffed with fried balls of mashed chickpeas, topped with as many of the 21 self-serve garnishes as you want, from crunchy onion to hummus. You’ll want to add an order of double-fried potatoes, which go best with a dab of Dutch mayo and a shake of Old Bay Seasoning. You can dine in or on the patio, but most customers carry out.
2425 18th St. NW (at Belmont Rd.). www.falafelshop.com. 202/234-1969. Reservations not accepted. Falafel $5–$7; Dutch fries $3–$4. Sun–Mon 11am–midnight; Tues–Wed 11am–2:30am; Thurs 11am–3am; Fri–Sat 11am–4am. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo, with a walk.
Expensive
Al Tiramisu ITALIAN Al Tiramisu is a find, and those who have found it include George Clooney and dad Nick Clooney, Hillary Clinton, Magic Johnson, Ethel Kennedy, and Catherine Zeta-Jones. I imagine celebrities like it for the same reason everyone else does: the infectious ebullience of chef/owner Luigi Diotaiuti, who bounces out from behind a curtain to greet you as you enter; the unpretentious feeling of this snug little restaurant, which is essentially one long room in the bottom of a Dupont Circle townhouse (people do complain that it feels cramped, but I like it); and a menu that includes excellently prepared fresh grilled fish, house-made spinach-ricotta ravioli with butter and sage sauce, and veal Milanese. This is a place to come for romance, for cheering up, for having a good time with friends, and Tiramisu has been so obliging since it opened in 1996. Check out the restaurant’s website for a hint of its personality. A little hokey, maybe, but fun.
2014 P St. NW (btw. 19th and 20th sts.). www.altiramisu.com. 202/467-4466. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$30 at lunch and dinner. Mon–Fri noon–2pm, Sun–Thurs nightly 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–11pm . Metro: Dupont Circle (19th St./South exit).
Komi NEW AMERICAN/GREEK Dining at Komi is a simply delicious experience in an intimate, somewhat casual dining room, where the best servers in the city make you feel fully at home and encourage you to focus on the food, your companions, and the exquisite pleasure of tasting the best cuisine in the capital. Because Komi’s is the best; critics tend to agree about that. Chef/owner Johnny Monis may be young, but he knows exactly what he’s doing, filling dates with mascarpone, or a brioche with monkfish liver, or charring octopus with tomato and fig. There is no printed menu. Monis just sends out 15 or more tastes of his divine inspirations, and if you know what’s good for you, you savor it. (Komi will accommodate those with allergies or dietary restrictions; just be sure to call ahead.) This is not a place for loud conversation, nor is it hoity-toity. I wouldn’t even describe it as the domain of foodies, although foodies certainly flock here. A dinner at Komi is really about slowing down for a short while, focusing, and being renewed. FYI: If you can’t book a table at Komi, try Monis’s Little Serow, a stools-only, walk-ins only, family-style restaurant in the basement of the building next door to Komi. The Northern Thai menu is prix fixe, $45 for seven courses, and authentic. You’ll know you’ve found Little Serow when you see the line.
1509 17th St. NW (near P St.). www.komirestaurant.com. 202/332-9200. Reservations a must (call a month in advance). Prix fixe $135 per person. Tues–Sat 5:30–9:30pm. Metro: Dupont Circle (Q St. exit).
Tabard Inn AMERICAN When a brunch reservation is as difficult to get as it is here, one has to wonder what all the commotions about. My guess? The freshly-made doughnuts served with whipped cream. The Tabard Inn bakes all its breads, pastries, and desserts in-house, and they’re scrumptious. Other items also prove a potent lure, like the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, crab cakes with fried green tomatoes, and the eggs Benedict served with house-smoked salmon. The fact that all of this is served in an absolutely charming, sky-lit room (just past the comfy, old, wood-paneled lounge, where live jazz performances are offered on Sunday through Tuesday evenings) doesn’t hurt. If you can’t get in for a meal (and they serve more than brunch), do stop in for a cocktail, just so you can experience the inn’s lovely ambience (it’s also a hotel; see p. 55).
1739 N St. NW (at 17th St., in the Hotel Tabard Inn). www.tabardinn.com. 202/331-8528. Reservations recommended. Main courses breakfast $5–$10, lunch and brunch $11–$18, dinner $24–$36. Mon–Fri 7–10am and 11:30am–2:30pm; Sat–Sun 7–9am; Sat–Sun brunch 10:30am–2:30pm; Sun–Wed 5:30–9:30pm; Thurs–Sat 5:30–10pm. Metro: Dupont Circle (19th St./South exit).
Pizzeria Paradiso PIZZA/ITALIAN Pizzeria Paradiso has been around since before you were born. Okay, well, certainly before the gourmet pizza trend was born. It’s 24 years old and remains a favorite among a wide field of contenders. Paradiso cooks its pizzas in a wood-burning, domed, stone oven that can withstand 650 degree heat, which gives the pizza a light but doughier crust than its rivals. The pies come in 8” and 12” sizes, and the 47-item toppings list includes anything you might imagine, from mussels to vegan mozzarella. Paninis and salads, too, get high marks. Pizzeria Paradiso also has a Birreria, where patrons interested in microbrews and handcrafted beers can select from 12 drafts and 200 bottles. Paradiso’s other locations are in Georgetown, at 3282 M St. NW ( 202/337-1245), and in Old Town Alexandria, at 124 King St. ( 703/837-1245).
2003 P St. NW (btw. 20th and 21st sts.). www.eatyourpizza.com. 202/223-1245. Reservations not accepted. Pizzas $12–$20; sandwiches and salads $8–$13. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight; Sun noon–10pm. Metro: Dupont Circle (19th St./South exit).
Teaism Dupont Circle ASIAN FUSION I have long been a fan of this homegrown teahouse enterprise, which in 2012 added a fourth location, in Old Town Alexandria. The District’s Teaisms are mostly alike in their menus of bento boxes, aromatic teas, savory sandwiches, and sweets, though they differ in appearance. (Old Town’s is an exception, a bit more sophisticated in its menu.) This one, in Dupont Circle, is the original, a homey, two-level restaurant and shop tucked inside a century-old building with French windows that overlook the tree-lined street. The Penn Quarter’s Teaism is busier, as you might expect from the neighborhood, and its shop is situated separately, one storefront away from the restaurant. No matter the Teaism, you’ll find these are casual eateries, where you order from a menu that might include curried chicken salad, Vietnamese wrapped sandwiches (of chicken with spicy lime mayo), udon noodle soup, daily specials (such as Korean beef tacos), and a constantly updated inventory of about 36 teas.
Visit Teaism Lafayette Square, 800 Connecticut Ave. NW ( 202/835-2233), near the White House; and Teaism Penn Quarter 
, 400 8th St. NW ( 202/638-6010), which is the only branch that serves beer, wine, and cocktails; and Teaism Old Town at 682 N. Asaph St. ( 703/684-7777).
2009 R St. NW (btw. Connecticut and 21st sts.). www.teaism.com. 202/667-3827. All items $3–$12. Mon–Thurs 8am–10pm; Fri 8am–11pm; Sat 9am–11pm; Sun 9am–10pm. Metro: Dupont Circle (Q St. exit).
Foggy Bottom/West End
Moderate
Founding Farmers AMERICAN An international clientele gathers at Founding Farmers, thanks to the fact that the restaurant is located on the ground floor of the International Monetary Fund, one block from World Bank Headquarters, and within a short walk of the Pan American Health Organization and the State Department. But the real reason for its popularity may be that it’s one of only a few good dining room restaurants (as opposed to fast food joints and delis) in this neck of the woods. So expect a full house, a frenetic ambience, and noise. That’s especially true downstairs, which holds a big bar and communal farm tables, as well as booths and tables. Upstairs tends to be quieter, with silo-shaped booths and small clusters of more intimate seating. So what to order? Founding Farmers fans enthuse about the fancy cocktails, the New Orleans–style French toast available at brunch, and, at lunch and dinner, the crispy shrimp and the griddled farm bread topped with brie, onion jam, and sliced apples. But the options are endless and include meatless entrees that the menu describes as “Prepared on dedicated meatless equipment.” The restaurant is also committed to eco-friendly practices, and uses them even in the restaurant’s design.
Hungry? Make Like a Local and Follow the food trucks
“Meet you at McPherson Square—lobster rolls!” “Time for a cupcake break—corner of 3rd and D.” All day long weekdays and somewhat on weekends, D.C. workers of all trades and echelons text, tweet, e-mail, or phone friends to arrange a food-on-the-move rendezvous. They track the routes of favorite “food trucks,” that most unappetizing name for the legion of mobile cook-and-serve vendors, each hocking its own irresistible specialty: gourmet macaroni and cheese, empanadas, Philly cheesesteaks, Maine lobster rolls, all sorts of desserts—you get the idea.
Traditional sidewalk and roadway merchants selling hot dogs and T-shirts still abound in all the usual sightseeing places, including in clusters around the National Mall. These are not them. This next generation of food trucks switches up street fare, tweets its location so hungry patrons know where to go, and still manages to keep prices reasonable (generally ranging from $3 for a Curbside Cupcake to $15 for a Red Hook Lobster Pound lobster roll). These days, close to 200 different trucks roll around town, setting up shop at designated spots before driving on to their next location.
For a complete list of D.C.’s food trucks, go to www.foodtruckfiesta.com, which also displays a map in real time of food-truck stops and messages. The website includes links to each truck’s website, where menus, travel routes, and prices are posted.
Laws prohibit gourmet food trucks from parking and serving on federal property, so you won’t find these trucks parked along the inside roads (Jefferson and Madison drives) of the National Mall (though the aforementioned stationary vendors selling hot dogs and T-shirts are allowed, for some reason). They’re never far away, though.
1924 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at 20th St.). www.wearefoundingfarmers.com. 202/822-8783. Reservations recommended. Main courses breakfast and brunch $5–$15, lunch and dinner $8–$35 (most under $20). Mon 7am–10pm; Tues–Thurs 7am–11pm; Fri 7am–midnight; Sat 9am–midnight; Sun 9am–10pm. Metro: Foggy Bottom.
Inexpensive
Paul FRENCH BAKERY/CAFE Talk about an appreciative audience! French expats, embassy staff, francophiles like moi—and everybody else who loves croissants, gateau, baguettes, brioche, crepes, eclairs, and macarons—plan their runs to Paul with quiet regularity. I am not embarrassed to say that I have visited all four District shops of this French chain. I’m partial to this one because it is so large and has so many places to perch. There are hundreds of Pauls around the world, all descendants of the one that opened in 1889 in Croix, near the city of Lille in northern France. Besides bread and pastries, Paul sells soups, salads, and sandwiches. In the D.C. area you’ll find Pauls in Penn Quarter (801 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202/524-4500), Georgetown (1078 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202/524-4630), and in Midtown (1000 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202/524-4860).
2000 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (entrance on 20th St.). www.paul-usa.com. 202/524-4655. Reservations not accepted. Breads and pastries $1–$8; sandwiches and salads $7–$14. Mon–Fri 7am–8pm; Sat–Sun 8am–6pm. Metro: Foggy Bottom.
Georgetown
The closest Metro stop to Georgetown is the Blue Line’s Foggy Bottom station; from there you can walk or catch the D.C. Circulator bus on Pennsylvania Avenue.
Expensive
1789 AMERICAN One of the city’s top tables, the 1789 is the standard bearer for Old World charm. The restaurant’s six dining rooms occupy a renovated Federal-period house on a back street in Georgetown. Equestrian and historical prints, tables laid with Limoges china and silver, and antique furnishings throughout add touches of elegance. Women usually dress up and men are advised to wear jackets (the staff have lender attire for those who forget). Romancing couples, like Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban, world leaders, like President Obama and German Chancellor Angela Merkel, and locals celebrating birthdays and anniversaries are among those who dine here for the intimate atmosphere and sense of momentousness the 1789 confers upon any occasion.
The kitchen has seen chefs come and go in the past few years, but the 1789, at 55 years old, is an old hand at handling change. Its cuisine has always been and always will be American, the emphasis more and more on produce purchased from local farms, and meats, seafood, and poultry bought “direct from their native regions.” The menu tells you where everything comes from, listed in categories such as “Sustainable Seafood,” where you learn that the potato-crusted rockfish is from Rock Hall, MD; in the “Humanely Farmed Animals” section you find country ham from Waynesboro, VA, served with creamy collard greens.
1226 36th St. NW (at Prospect St.). www.1789restaurant.com. 202/965-1789. Reservations recommended. Jacket suggested for men. Main courses $34–$52. Mon–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri 6–11pm; Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5:30–10pm.
Fiola Mare ITALIAN Strictly speaking, the Potomac River is not Il Mare, but as the watery view for one of the newest, and certainly one of the finest seafood restaurants in D.C, the river certainly will do. This younger sister (opened March 2014) to Fabio Trabocchi’s highly regarded Fiola (p. 69) in the Penn Quarter, Fiola Mare is worth a visit, if only to take in terrific river-side vistas; in fact only a handful of D.C. restaurants are waterfront, and no other is of this caliber. Sit at one of the many outdoor balcony tables and you’ll be gazing out at Roosevelt Island, Key Bridge, and a slice of Georgetown’s waterfront to your right, and the Watergate apartments and the Kennedy Center to your left. Great views are also available within. The sprawling, modern interior has a front bar and a back bar, and more than one dining area in between. The quietly proficient staff serve up a slate of specialty cocktails, like the standout Bellini. Trabocchi shines in his mastery of Italian seafood. A recent dinner started with a generous portion of top grade tuna tartare, graced with a hint of tomato essence, followed by a too-generous portion of poached Alaska halibut topped with Ossetia caviar and succulent oysters. Also done to perfection was a bowl of lobster ravioli in a simple, herb-scented lobster broth, together with juicy lobster claw and tail, tasting as if the crustacean had just been pulled from the water. End with the bombolini: half a dozen ricotta doughnuts dusted with sugar, complemented by a warm chocolate sauce and a generous portion of vanilla gelato bearing chocolate crunches.
chocolate Lounges & Cupcake Shops
Busted! Washingtonians are finally exposed for what we are: chocoholics and sweet-cake addicts. An explosion of chocolate lounges and cupcake shops has forced us to come clean. Outposts of Sprinkles and Crumbs keep popping up around town, as do those of Paul Bakery (see p. 79). But let’s talk about excellent homegrown sweet shops, shall we? If you answer to the same passion for something desserty, join the queue at one of these four personally vouched-for places:
Co Co. Sala, 929 F St. NW (www.cocosala.com; 202/347-4265): This chocolate lounge and boutique is a sweet refuge in the heart of the Penn Quarter, dispensing coffees, cocoas, pastries, and small plates of light fare throughout the day. Dessert cocktails and chocolate-spiked liqueurs are on tap into the wee hours.
Georgetown Cupcake, 3301 M St. NW (www.georgetowncupcake.com; 202/333-8448): Two sisters, 12 daily flavors, darling designs and packaging, and superb baked goods. Locals vote the chocolate ganache the best cupcake in the city; I love the lemon cupcake with lemon cream cheese frosting. Georgetown Cupcake is so popular that the TLC network developed a reality TV show featuring the lovely cupcake makers, Sophie LaMontagne and Katherine Kallinis. Georgetown Cupcake now has locations in New York, Los Angeles, Atlanta, and Boston.
Hans Pedr’ Kaffé, 1781 Florida Ave. NW (www.hanspedrkaffe.com; 202/518-2570): The Adams Morgan–based Hans Pedr’ Kaffé was already a Belgian chocolate confiserie when it launched its cafe with sidewalk seating. Chocoholics can sip chocolate-enhanced coffee and hot cocoas, and savor an assortment of cakes, Belgian waffles, pastries, and created-on-the-premises chocolate bonbons.
Red Velvet Cupcakery, 505 7th St. NW (www.redvelvetcupcakery.com; 202/347-7895): Located in the heart of the Penn Quarter, Red Velvet stays open until 11pm nightly, happy to accommodate the bar and club crowd when a yen for a sweet something hits. It also serves hot chocolate to go.
3050 K St. NW, Suite 101 (at 31st St. NW and the Washington Harbour waterfront). www.fiolamaredc.com. 202/628-0065. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $16–36, $24 prix-fixe light lunch menu; brunch main courses $16–$28; dinner main courses $20–$42. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sat–Sun 11:30am–2:45pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30pm–10:30pm Fri 5:30–11pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–9pm.
La Chaumiere FRENCH Sometimes you just are not in the mood for trendy. Sometimes you simply want delicious food, service that is solicitous but not in the way, a pretty but not splashy dining room, and tables set enough apart to allow for private conversation. La Chaumiere is the answer. A “grown-up” restaurant in Georgetown that’s been around for 38 years, it pleases with its French country decor, its white tablecloth-covered tables, and rush-bottom chairs arranged around the large center hearth, where a fire crackles in winter. Le Chaumiere’s menu is a joy for lovers of French classics, like French onion soup, lobster bisque, steak au poivre, and St. Jacques a la Provençale (sea scallops with garlic and tomatoes). The clientele usually skews older, but young couples, families, and business people are among the grateful patrons, too.
Nearly every restaurant welcomes families these days, starting, most likely, with the one in your hotel. Cafes at sightseeing attractions are always a safe bet, and so are these:
Lebanese Taverna (p. 84) Its location down the hill from the National Zoo and its kids menu of $6.50 items, each served with hummus, rice, carrots, and celery, make the Taverna attractive to Mom, Dad, and the whole caboodle. Around for 24 years, the Taverna is a favorite among locals.
Five Guys Burgers and Fries (p. 73) Duh. Burgers. Fries. Hot dogs. Sodas. Grilled cheese. Indestructible environment. And the Guys are everywhere you turn. Last but not least, the price is right: Burgers are $4–$7, fries $2–$5.
Ted’s Bulletin (p. 66) This boisterous, laid-back place in the Barracks Row section of Capitol Hill welcomes children of all ages with a retro menu of comfort food, like grilled cheese, Pop-Tarts, mac and cheese, and tomato soup. Breakfast is served all day, so that might decide things right there. Or how about this: thick and creamy milkshakes in awesome flavors like Oreo and Heath bar almond. There’s always a lot going on here, so you never have to worry about your children making too much noise. Prices: breakfast $9–$13, lunch $10–$15, dinner $14–$25. Milkshakes are $6.49 each.
2813 M St. NW (at 28th St.) www.lachaumieredc.com. 202/338-1784. Reservations accepted. Main courses lunch $14–$18, dinner $17–$37 (most under $30). Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm.
Moderate
Bandolero MEXICAN Bandolero is one of those places where it always seems like a party’s in progress. This small plates eatery has figured out how to make people happy: Combine conversation-making decor (look for depictions of mustachioed Mexican bad guys, skulls, and graveyard posts and tombstones); strong drinks (tequila gets its own menu, with 26 kinds listed, and there are seven versions of margaritas); and most importantly, shareable, familiar cuisine that’s done differently enough to inspire oohs and aahs. Some of the highlights here are suckling pig with apple and habanero sauce, queso fundido (cheese dip) served with a sunny-side-up egg on top, and crispy Brussels sprouts in lemon vinaigrette with coconut-habanero sauce. Diners have complained about the noise level and the dim lighting, though the last time I visited, the dining room did seem better lit. Noise level? Remains loud.
3241 M St. NW (btw. Potomac St. and Wisconsin Ave.). www.bandolerodc.com. 202/625-4488. Reservations accepted. Small plates $8–$15 each. Mon–Wed, Thurs 4–11pm, Fri 4pm–midnight; Sat–Sun 10am–midnight. Bar stays open later.
Martin’s Tavern AMERICAN Martin’s turns 82 in 2015, and in its lifetime has served every president from Harry Truman to George W. Bush. The tavern is best known as the place where JFK, then a U.S. Senator, proposed to Jacqueline Bouvier on June 24, 1953. Hardbacked wooden booths line the walls of the restaurant, and many bear a plaque identifying the former President or famous person who dined within; #3 is the “Proposal Booth.” Fourth generation Billy Martin is usually behind the bar, attending to the regulars who frequent the place. That’s largely what Martin’s is these days: a restaurant for folks from the neighborhood, many of them generational iterations of earlier customers. People who aren’t regulars sometimes feel left out, but that’s part of the experience, too. “Tavern” is exactly the word to describe Martin’s food, which is okay American and, in some cases, Colonial American: Shepherd’s pie and Brunswick stew are listed, and so is Martin’s Delight, which is roasted turkey on toast, smothered in rarebit sauce. Martin’s offers a bit of old-guard Washington and Georgetown you’re not going to get anywhere else, and that’s mostly why I recommend it.
1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW (at N St.). www.martins-tavern.com. 202/333-7370. Reservations accepted. Main courses breakfast $8–$18, lunch/brunch $8–$27; dinner $12–$35. Sun 8am–1:30am; Mon–Thurs 11am–1:30am; Fri 11am–2:30am, Sat 9am–2:30am.
Inexpensive
Ching Ching Cha CHINESE You’d never guess this kind of place might exist in wild and woolly Georgetown, and it’s right in the thick of things, too, on Wisconsin Avenue, just past Blues Alley. Although it’s been here since 1998, many locals don’t even know about Ching, and maybe that’s why there’s never a line. You’re here for an authentic tearoom experience, where the emphasis is on enjoying tea in a tranquil environment. The skylit space is furnished with cushioned platform seating and chairs set at rosewood tables. Try one of the flowering teas, listed among Artisan Teas, in which the brewed tea opens up a jasmine or orange blossom. Seventy teas in all are listed: scented, black, green, oolong, decaffeinated, tisanes, you name it. A short list of menu options ranges from the $5 Mongolian dumpling to the $14 tea meal (soup, rice, marinated cold vegetables, and a main dish, such as mustard miso salmon.) A fine selection of teaware products gifts is for sale.
1063 Wisconsin Ave. NW (near M St.). www.chingchingcha.com. 202/333-8288. Reservations not accepted. All food items $4–$12; pot of tea $6–$20. Daily 11am–9pm.
Surfside AMERICAN/LATIN/SEAFOOD Here it is that 20- and 30-somethings gather on the rooftop deck to sip margaritas and dive into guacamole, while down in the colorful and casual eatery, their married-with-children peers, families in tow, nosh on tacos, quesadillas, burritos, and salads. Surfside is especially known for its fresh grilled fish tacos, but its menu covers assorted options, including a pork carnitas taco served with pineapple jalapeño salsa on corn tortillas, that I like. But if the menu combinations don’t appeal, you fill out a form indicating your desired ingredients so the cook can custom-prepare your order. Good to know: Surfside does a brisk takeout business, too, and it now operates a food truck—look for its signature ocean-blue van prowling downtown streets. Technically, Surfside is in a neighborhood called Glover Park, which is just north of Georgetown, so not far.
2444 Wisconsin Ave. NW (near Calvert St.). www.surfsidedc.com. 202/337-0004. Reservations accepted. Main courses dinner $7–$14, brunch $7–$10. Sun–Wed 11am–9:30pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–10pm. Bar daily until midnight.
Moderate
Indique INDIAN Staff from the Indian Embassy and others who know authentic Indian cuisine consider Indique’s regional dishes the real deal. Favorite dishes are too many to mention, but definitely order the vegetable samosa chaat, the chicken curry, and the tandoori shrimp. The two-level town house offers two different dining spaces: Upstairs is a beautiful room of red and gold walls and blue painted ceilings, with best tables overlooking the atrium; downstairs includes the lively windowfronted bar area, a good spot for watching commuters emerging from the Cleveland Park subway station and all else that’s happening on busy Connecticut Avenue.
3512–14 Connecticut Ave. NW (btw. Porter and Ordway sts.). www.indique.com. 202/244-6600. Reservations accepted. Main courses $12–$23, Sun brunch $24. Fri–Sat noon–3pm; Sun 11am–3pm, Sun–Thurs 5:30–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm. Metro: Cleveland Park (Connecticut Ave. west exit).
Lebanese Taverna MIDDLE EASTERN Open since 1990, the family-owned Lebanese Taverna received a much-needed renovation in 2012. The re-design added the inevitable bar (13 seats) and lounge, and created a contemporary look in the dining room that now intersperses natural walnut wood panels with hand-laid fieldstone walls, and crowns the room overall with a high sweep of white double-vaulted ceiling. The place feels streamlined and airy. The menu continues to emphasize traditional Middle Eastern dishes, but presents them in more up-to-date ways. For instance, the hummus bar offers three flavors (traditional, spicy, garlic), 11 toppings, and four dippers (crackers, vegetables, fries, and pita toasts). Entrees, such as the lamb sharhat (sliced lamb loin with three green-herb sauce), and mezza items, from tabbouleh to spinach pastries, continue to draw the neighborhood here. All meals begin with fresh-from-the-oven puffs of pita bread with olive oil. The proper ending is an order of Turkish doughnuts, honey-drizzled creamy pudding on the side for dipping.
2641 Connecticut Ave. NW (near Woodley Rd.). www.lebanesetaverna.com. 202/265-8681. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$24 (most $15–$17); mezze items $6–$11. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo (Connecticut Ave. south exit).