4

Where to Stay in Washington, D.C.

If your desire for superb accommodations trumps your concern about expense, you should have no trouble discovering just the hotel for you in Washington, D.C.’s stable of upscale properties. In shorter supply are inexpensive and moderately priced hotels. In fact, the cheapest lodging is found more readily outside the District, in suburban Virginia and Maryland motels and hotels. But do I think you should stay there? No. For a full-blooded experience of the capital, you need to stay overnight and wake up within its urban embrace.

Washington, D.C., has upwards of 130 hotels. In this chapter, I present you with descriptions of about 30 properties, all of which I have visited. The majority of the hotels skew to the more affordable, whose overnight rates can go as low as $99, but seldom higher than $250. I’ve also included several high-end options, not just for the one percenters, but for those who seek a fabulous deal at a five-star place. (For tips, read “Getting the Best Deal,” below.)

The common denominator is the “distinctly D.C.” factor, from the posh Hay-Adams (p. 49) showing off its view of the White House to the Capitol Hill Hotel (p. 43), the only hotel truly located on “The Hill.” For the most part, I’ve eschewed chains, not because they’re not worthy choices, but because the experience is somewhat predictable and usually has more to do with the hotel brand than the city itself.

Getting the Best Deal

Want the secret for getting the best hotel deal ever in Washington? Easy: Come to Washington when Congress is out, when cherry blossom season is over, or during the blazing hot days of July or August or the icy-cold days of a noninauguration-year January or February. Not possible? Okay, let’s put it this way: Don’t try to negotiate a good deal for late March or early April (cherry blossom season); hotel reservationists will laugh at you. I’ve heard them.

Consider these tips, too:

bull.jpgVisit on a weekend if you can. Hotels looking to fill rooms vacated by weekday business travelers lower their rates and might be willing to negotiate even further for weekend arrivals.

bull.jpgAsk about special rates or other discounts and whether a room less expensive than the first one quoted is available. You may qualify for substantial corporate, government, student, military, senior, or other discounts. Mention membership in AAA, AARP, frequent-flier programs, or trade unions, which may entitle you to special deals.

bull.jpgBook online. Because booking online is so often the best way to get a discount, we’ve devoted an entire box to a discussion of how to get the best deals. See p. 43.

bull.jpgLook into group or long-stay discounts. If you come as part of a large group, you should be able to negotiate a bargain rate because the hotel can then guarantee occupancy in a number of rooms. Likewise, if you’re planning a long stay (at least 5 days), you might qualify for a discount. As a general rule, expect 1 night free after a 7-night stay.

bull.jpgConsider enrolling in hotel “frequent-stay” programs, which aim to win the loyalty of repeat customers. Frequent guests can accumulate points or credits to earn free hotel nights, airline miles, in-room amenities, merchandise, tickets to concerts and events, and discounts on sporting facilities. Perks are awarded not only by many chain hotels and motels (Hilton Honors and Omni Select Guests, to name two), but also by individual inns and B&Bs.

bull.jpgFinally, whether or not you’ve gotten the best deal possible on your room rate, you can still save money on incidental costs. D.C. hotels charge unbelievable rates for overnight parking—up to $50 a night at some hotels, plus tax—so if you can avoid driving, you can save yourself quite a bit of money. Avoid dialing direct from hotel phones, which usually have exorbitant rates—as do the room’s minibar offerings.

Keep in mind that D.C. hotel sales tax is a whopping 14.5%, merchandise sales tax is 5.75%, and food and beverage tax is 10%, all of which can rapidly increase the cost of a room.

Consider Alternative Accommodations

If your luck and time are running out and you still haven’t found a place to stay, and/or if your budget constrains you from choosing one of the selections in this chapter, consider these alternatives:

bull.jpgHostelling International Washington, DC (1009 11th St. NW, at K St.; www.hiwashingtondc.org; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 888/464-4872 or 202/737-2333) is well located in the Penn Quarter and nicely equipped, with Wi-Fi, bike racks, and air conditioning. Breakfast is complimentary, and the hostel often hosts complimentary dinners. In all, there are 250 beds, all but a handful without private bath. Dorm rooms and private rooms are available at rates that range from $30 to $150 a night per person, plus $3 Hostelling International daily membership fee.

bull.jpgCheck out AirBnB, a website-based rental operation that matches people looking for a place to stay with locals interested in renting out space in their home, or sometimes the entire apartment or house, often for far less than you might pay at a hotel. At the time researched, AirBnB Washington, D.C. (www.airbnb.com/locations/washington-dc) had 1,818 listings scattered among 26 neighborhoods. Similarly,

Price categories

Expensive  $300 and up

Moderate  $200–$300

Inexpensive Under $200

What You’ll really Pay

The prices given in this chapter and the price categories established above are rack rates, the maximum that a hotel might charge for a “double” room. At most hotels, you probably won’t pay the very highest rate unless you visit in the spring—especially during cherry blossom season in late March and early April—and during inauguration Januarys, every 4 years. These categories are intended as a general guideline only, since rates can rise and fall dramatically, depending on how busy the hotel is. In this chapter, I’ve tried to show a more realistic picture, providing peak and off-peak rates, sometimes presented as a range, for each hotel.

 Discounts are often available online (see box on p. 43 for tips), or by booking through agencies. When the timing’s right, it’s not impossible to obtain a room at an expensive property for the same rate as a more moderate one. And if you’re persistent, you can try besting the hotel’s own discount by searching for a better price on the websites of the major discounters, then calling the hotel and quoting the discovered cheaper rate—it’s usually hotel policy to match the lower price.

Two notes: Quoted discount rates almost never include the hefty 14.5% hotel sales tax. The word “double” refers to the number of people in the room, not to the size of the bed. Most hotels charge one rate, regardless of whether one or two people occupy the room. In a few cases, a hotel specifies separate rates for “single” and “double” occupancy, and I provide that information.

Vacation Rentals by Owner (www.vrbo.com), FlipKey.com, and HomeAway.com, among others, offer furnished apartments for rent around the city. You might also consider BedandBreakfastDC.com (www.bedandbreakfastdc.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 877/893-3233): In business since 1978, this organization works with a large selection of private homes, inns, guesthouses, and unhosted furnished apartments to find lodging for visitors.

bull.jpgConsider house swapping. Try such organizations as The Home Exchange (www.homeexchange.com) or HomeLink International (www.homelink.org) which offer tens of thousands of would-be swaps worldwide (take into account the membership fees when looking at the overall costs).

bull.jpgCall Washington’s tourism bureau, Destination D.C. (Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 202/789-7000), and ask the tourist rep for the names and numbers of any new or about-to-open hotels. If the rep isn’t sure, ask her to check with the marketing director. Up-and-coming hotels may have available rooms, for the simple reason that few people know about them. Hotels scheduled to open in D.C. in 2015 include the Half Street Hotel and a Hampton Hotel, both near Nationals Park in the Capitol Riverfront neighborhood.

bull.jpgConsider staying outside the city. In northern Virginia, Rte. 1, also known as Jefferson Davis Highway within Crystal City limits, is lined with hotels for every budget. A good listing is available on the Metropolitan Washington Airports Authority website (www.mwaa.com/reagan/reagan.htm). Click on “Travel Tips” and then click on “Local Hotels,” in the Local Tourism section on that page, to discover the rundown of nearby hotels.

On or Near Capitol Hill

A handful of hotels form a cluster just north of the Capitol, adjacent to Union Station; just one hotel lies on Capitol Hill itself, a few minutes’ walk from the Capitol. These hotels are also within easy reach of the National Mall.

Best for: Travelers who have business at the Capitol and tourists who want to be close to the Capitol and other Hill attractions, as well as to the National Mall.

Drawbacks: These neighborhoods are in the thick of things during the day, but not so much at night.

Expensive

The George Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    The George, which is the best hotel closest to the Capitol, is also now a little more whimsically attractive, thanks to an early 2014 renovation. Among the changes in the 260-square-foot guest rooms, look for light cream with parchment and ink-stylized wall graphics of George Washington’s inaugural address, and accent pillows based on GW’s original uniforms. The George’s main clientele are weekday business people and weekend tourists, both of whom have agendas at the Capitol, a very pleasant 8-minute walk away. (Turn left outside the hotel and walk up the block to North Capitol St., turn right on North Capitol St., and then just head toward that big white building up in front of you.) The only other hotel closer to the Capitol is the Capitol Hill Hotel (see below), an entirely different kind of lodging. Celebrities often stay at The George, too, and not just those visiting Congress to plead the case for their pet cause. Big name musicians (ladies and gentlemen, the Rolling Stones!) like The George, and this is interesting, because the hotel is not the most obvious choice. Its location is not the hotspot of, say, a Penn Quarter or Georgetown property. Nor is The George associated with the kind of over-the-top luxury of, for instance, a Ritz-Carlton or a Four Seasons. Rather, The George offers playful personality, sumptuously comfortable guest rooms, and total discretion. The hotel’s resident restaurant, Bistro Bis, is a longtime favorite among locals and visitors, big names or not.

15 E St. NW (at N. Capitol St.). www.hotelgeorge.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/546-7866 or 202/347-4200. 139 units. Weekdays $289–$499 double; weekends $139–$299 double; $750–$1,050 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include hosted evening wine hour. Parking $45. Metro: Union Station (Massachusetts Ave. exit). Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s amenity program; concierge; small exercise room w/steam rooms; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Residence Inn Capitol Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    It’s no accident that this Residence Inn is located within walking distance of the National Museum of the American Indian. Three Native American tribes are 49% owners of the hotel, which made it the first multi-tribal partnership with nontribal partners on land off the reservation when the hotel opened in 2005. Although certain features, like stonework in the lobby and artwork throughout, hint at its Native American heritage, the hotel is otherwise similar to standard Residence Inns when it comes to amenities. All rooms are spacious suites (studio, one-bedroom, or two-bedroom) equipped with full kitchens. A $4.5-million renovation completed in 2012 added and/or replaced carpeting, granite counters, furniture, and artwork; re-designed the common areas; and expanded the business center. The hotel does lie close to a train track, so be sure to ask for a room on the other side of the hotel if you think you might be disturbed by the sounds of a train whistling by.

333 E St. SW (at 4th St.). www.marriott.com/wascp. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/331-3131 or 202/484-8280. 233 units. Peak $399 studio, $419 1-bedroom suite, $459 2-bedroom suite; off-peak $159 studio, $169 1-bedroom suite, $299 2-bedroom suite. Call about seasonal and long-term rates. Rates include hot breakfast daily, light dinner Mon–Wed, and grocery delivery service. Parking $35 plus tax. Metro: Federal Center SW or L’Enfant Plaza. Pets accepted for a fee. Amenities: Concierge, health club with fitness center, indoor pool, whirlpool, and sundeck; Wi-Fi (free).

Turning to the internet or apps for a Hotel Discount

Before going online, it’s important that you know what “flavor” of discount you’re seeking. Currently, there are three types of online reductions and one that’s app based.

1. Extreme discounts on sites where you bid for lodgings without knowing which hotel you’ll get. You’ll find these on such sites as Priceline.com and Hotwire.com, and they can be real money-savers, particularly if you’re booking within a week of travel (that’s when the hotels get nervous and resort to deep discounts to get beds filled). As these companies mostly feature major chains, it’s unlikely that you will be put up in a dump. For more reassurance, visit the website BetterBidding.com, which allows you to compare Priceline and Hotwire rates all at once, as well as read comments from actual travelers, who spill the beans on their experiences in bidding and on the hotels they wound up booking. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the quality of many of the hotels that are offering these “secret” discounts to the opaque bidding websites.

2. Discounts on the hotel’s website itself. Sometimes these can be great values, as they’ll often include such nice perks as free breakfast or parking privileges. Before biting, though, be sure to look at the discounter sites below.

3. Discounts on online travel agencies as Hotels.com, Quikbook.com, Expedia.com, and the like. Some of these sites reserve rooms in bulk and at a discount, passing along the savings to their customers. But instead of going to them directly, I’d recommend looking at such dedicated travel search engines as Hipmunk.com, HotelsCombined.com, Momondo.com and Trivago.com. These sites list prices from all the discount sites as well as the hotels directly, meaning you have a better chance of finding a discount. Note: Sometimes the discounts these sites find require advance payment for a room (and draconian cancellation policies), so double check your travel dates before booking.

  Tingo.com, a site founded by TripAdvisor, is another good source. Its model is a bit different than the others. Users make a pre-paid reservation through it, but if the price of the room drops between the time you make the booking and the date of arrival, the site refunds the difference in price.

4. Try the app HotelTonight.com. It only works for day of bookings, but WOW, does it get great prices for procrastinators (up to 70% off in many cases). A possible strategy: make a reservation at a hotel, then on the day you’re arriving try your luck with Hotel Tonight. Most hotels will allow you to cancel without penalty, even on the date of arrival.

 It’s a lot of surfing, I know, but in the hothouse world of D.C. hotel pricing, this sort of diligence can pay off.

Moderate

Capitol Hill Hotel Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    This property occupies two buildings on a residential street lined with old town houses. Neighbors include the Library of Congress, the Capitol, and the Supreme Court; just a block away is Pennsylvania Avenue SE’s stretch of fun bars and restaurants. Its location is the hotel’s prime attraction, because it is the only hotel truly on the Hill (on the House side of the Capitol). Every guest room has a kitchenette with coffeemaker, microwave, refrigerator, utensils, and glassware. Most units are studios, with the kitchenette, bed, and sofa all in the same room. Best choices are one-bedroom suites, in which the kitchenette and living room are separate from the bedroom. Some rooms have pullout sofas. Whatever the configuration, rooms are generally spacious, ranging in size from 320 to 510 square feet. A renovation completed in 2014 replaced furniture, wall coverings, and window treatments throughout the guest rooms. An ample continental breakfast of baked goods, yogurt, boiled eggs, and fruit is laid out each morning in the first floor breakfast room of the hotel’s east wing. (Guests staying in the main building, or “west wing,” must venture outside to enter the neighboring annex.) This is also where the hotel hosts a wine reception for guests every evening, 5 to 6pm. Other pluses include a well-equipped fitness center, displays of original art by local artists, and a business center.

Washington, D.C. Hotels

44.jpg

200 C St. SE (at 2nd St.). www.capitolhillhotel-dc.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/814-5983 or 202/543-6000. 153 units. Peak $250–$400 double; off-peak $139–$199 double. Extra person $20. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include continental breakfast daily and wine social nightly. Parking $44. Metro: Union Station (Massachusetts Ave. NW exit). Pets accepted. Amenities: Fitness center; coin-op washer/dryers; Wi-Fi (free).

Phoenix Park Hotel Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    The flag of Ireland flies outside the entrance to the Phoenix Park, while inside, barkeep Padriac (pronounced “Porick”) is pulling drafts of Guinness and Smithwicks (pronounced “Smidicks”) in the hotel’s lively pub, the Dubliner (p. 174). The Irish theme carries over into guest rooms, whose amenities include Irish cotton bathrobes and mahogany furnishings. Guests give top marks to the very high beds and their pillow-topped mattresses. Guest rooms vary in size from 275 to 350 square feet, though rooms in the “new wing,” added in 1997, tend to be cozier but not necessarily less expensive. For best views and spaciousness, ask for a room with two queen-size or one king-size bed facing Union Station (p. 96) and/or the National Postal Museum (p. 93). For the quietest rooms, request a room on the top floor, to escape both the sounds drifting up from the Dubliner (live music nightly!) and traffic noise. Families appreciate the bi-level suites, with pullout sofa in the living room and, up the spiral staircase, a loft bedroom. Business and leisure travelers alike choose the Phoenix Park for its convenient proximity to Union Station and to the Capitol.

520 N. Capitol St. NW (at Massachusetts Ave.). www.phoenixparkhotel.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 877/237-2082 or 202/638-6900. 149 units. Peak $149–$449 double; off-peak $99–$249 double; from $599 suite. Extra person $30. Children 16 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $50. Metro: Union Station (Massachusetts Ave. NW exit). Amenities: Irish pub; exercise room; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Penn Quarter

At the center of the city is this hot locale, jammed with restaurants, bars, museums, theaters, and the Verizon Center sports/concert arena. The plentiful hotels include modern venues catering to convention crowds and historic properties switched up for luxury-loving funseekers.

Best for: Those who love being in the thick of it all. Business travelers are within easy reach of downtown offices, the convention center, and Capitol Hill. Likewise, the Penn Quarter is prime home base for exploring tourists.

Drawbacks: Crowded sidewalks and noisy traffic can be annoying—even overwhelming.

Expensive

Willard InterContinental Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg    This historic hotel’s guest list has always included illustrious figures: President Abraham Lincoln actually lived here for 2 weeks in 1861 before moving into the White House, next door. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. stayed here in August 1963, finishing the writing of his historic “I Have a Dream” speech, before delivering it on Aug. 28, from the steps of the Lincoln Memorial to the vast crowds assembled on the National Mall. And from its very start, the Willard has hosted foreign dignitaries, from Japan’s 70 Samurai princes in 1860 to . . . well, take a look at what head of state is on the schedule to visit President Obama, and there’s a good chance that dignitary is booked at the Willard.

Guest rooms are handsomely decorated with dark wood furnishings, silken shades on lamps, and inviting flourishes, like the pretty throw laid across the end of the plumped-up bed. Ask for courtyard-facing rooms for quiet, or Pennsylvania Avenue–facing rooms for the views. Spring for an oval suite, which look down the avenue to the Capitol.

But you’re here as much for the history and ambience as for a place to sleep. You must: enjoy a cocktail at the Round Robin Bar, expertly mixed by barman Jim Hewes as he tells tales about Willard guests, from Charles Dickens to Bill Clinton; stroll through the lobby and admire its mosaic floor, marble columns, and ornate ceiling; and tour the history gallery filled with memorabilia, such as a copy of Lincoln’s hotel bill. Also check out the Willard’s calendar. Its varied events—afternoon tea, Kentucky Derby Day soiree, literary salon talks, Christmas tree decorating—attract as many locals as hotel guests.

1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at 14th St.). www.washington.intercontinental.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 866/487-2537 or 202/628-9100. 335 units. Peak weekdays from $459, weekends from $319 double; off-peak weekdays from $359, weekends from $259 double. Suites from $434 off-peak to $634 peak. Parking $45. Metro: Metro Center (13th St. exit). Small pets accepted. Amenities: Cafe w/seasonal terrace; 2 bars; seasonal afternoon tea in Peacock Alley; babysitting; concierge; thoroughly equipped health club and luxurious Red Door spa w/steam room, Jacuzzi, and sauna; room service; Wi-Fi (rates start at $11 per day/device).

Hotel Monaco Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    When it was completed in 1866, this historic, four-story, marble building served as the capital’s general post office and tariff building for an area that was largely a developing mishmash of big government and small-town buildings. Hard to imagine now. In 2015, the Monaco is celebrating its 13th year as one of the city’s top hotels, in the heart of D.C.’s hottest neighborhood, surrounded by wondrous museums, like the Smithsonian American Art/National Portrait Gallery, and trendy restaurants such as Zaytinya (p. 72) and Hill Country Barbecue Market (p. 70). Ask for an F Street or 7th Street-facing Monte Carlo room (525 sq. ft.) for best views; or a first floor guest room if quiet is preferred (some guests call this “the basement,” because it is nearly subterranean). Interior rooms overlook the large courtyard, where Poste restaurant and bar patrons sometimes get loud. Always check out special offers posted online, and loyalty program benefits, which can save you a bunch.

700 F St. NW (at 7th St.). www.monaco-dc.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/649-1202 or 202/628-7177. 183 units. Weekdays $299–$499 double, $509–$1,200 suite; weekends $169–$319 double, $269–$800 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include complimentary organic coffee in morning and a hosted evening wine hour. Parking $42. Metro: Gallery Place (7th and F sts. exit). Pets welcome—they get VIP treatment, with their own registration cards at check-in, maps of neighborhood fire hydrants and parks, and gourmet puppy and kitty treats. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s amenity program; concierge; spacious fitness center w/flatscreen TVs; room service; Wi-Fi (free, when you sign up for the no-cost loyalty program).

Moderate

Fairfield Inn & Suites Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    You’re really in the thick of things at this hotel, situated on a busy Chinatown street in the bustling Penn Quarter, a block north of the Verizon Center, and surrounded by hip eateries, like Daikaya, still a star two years after its March 2013 debut. But this is an old neighborhood, too: The bells of St. Mary Mother of God, the 1890 Catholic church across 5th Street from the Fairfield, peal from 7am to—don’t worry—9pm at night. And if you walk down H Street to #604, you’ll notice a historic plaque on the facade of what is now the Wok and Roll restaurant, identifying the structure as Mary Surratt’s Boarding House (Surratt conspired here with John Wilkes Booth to assassinate President Lincoln.) The vibrant Fairfield opened in 2011, following a remodeling of the former Red Roof Inn, and the nine-story property plays up the Chinatown connection, with the color red and Chinese symbols predominating in furnishings. Most spacious are ninth floor rooms (which also have high ceilings) and corner suites ending in “25.” Fifth Street-facing rooms offer nice city views, including St. Mary’s across the street. Deluxe king rooms have pullout sofas. Guests also like the key-only access to elevators, the availability of a coin-operated washer/dryer, and, most especially, the complimentary continental breakfast, which recently expanded to include hot items: eggs, sausage, and waffles.

500 H St. NW (at 5th St.). www.marriott.com/wasfc. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 202/289-5959. 198 units. Peak (Mar–June and Sept to mid-Nov) weekdays $259–$349 double, weekends $149–$199 double; off-peak (Jan–Feb, July–Aug, and mid-Nov to Dec) weekdays $199–$309 double, weekends $109–$189 double. Add $10 for a deluxe king room and $20 for a suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include continental breakfast. Parking $36 (no oversize vehicles). Metro: Gallery Place–Chinatown (7th and H sts. exit). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 24-hr. fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Midtown

Think of the White House as center stage, with an array of hotels, law and lobbyist office buildings, and restaurants at its feet. Several historic hotels, as well as less sophisticated, more affordable, contemporary properties, are among the options.

Best for: Travelers interested in a central location that’s less raucous than the Penn Quarter at night. Also those on business with the executive branch or at one of the law, lobbying, or association offices that line K Street.

Drawbacks: Urban sounds (traffic, construction, garbage collection) may be part of the experience.

Expensive

Donovan House Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    Like all Kimpton hotels, the Donovan is known for its hipness, newly played up in a 2014 re-design of guest rooms. Today guests sleep in a luxe and sexy niche in the room, created by the deep-purple wraparound bedstead of platform, headboard, and canopy. A faux snakeskin bench now sits below the television inset in the wall. Rooms range in size from 220 to 585 square feet. Best rooms are the largest ones, the king premiers, with floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook Thomas Circle and the John Russell Pope–designed National Christian Church on the other side of the circle. The Donovan is a good pick for couples and solo travelers, but not so much for families, especially in summer when the rooftop pool closes at 5pm and the rooftop bar opens. DNV, as the bar is called (for “Damn Nice View”), attracts local partiers, who crowd the elevators each night on their way to and from the bar. But do try the hotel’s first-floor restaurant Zentan, which serves pan-Asian tapas with an international flair.

family-friendly Hotels

Georgetown Suites Red-Star2_redstar2_box.jpg (p. 58)    Georgetown and all its attractions, which include not just restaurants and shops, but the C&O Canal path, tour boats on Washington Harbour, an ice-skating rink in winter at the Harbour Complex, and even a bunch of historical sites (see Georgetown Walking Tour, p. 204), are literally minutes from this hotel. And though Georgetown Suites does not offer a children’s program, it does have three things that I, as a parent, have always loved when traveling with kids: spacious suites so you can spread out, full kitchens so you can feed the hungry at any hour, and a nice complimentary breakfast down in the lobby, so you can shoo old-enough children out of the room in the morning, while you get ready for the day.

Hotel Monaco Red-Star2_redstar2_box.jpg (p. 47)    You’re in the heart of the city, literally surrounded by attractions (International Spy Museum, two Smithsonian museums, the National Crime and Punishment Museum, and the Verizon Center), with the National Mall just a few blocks away. The Red Line Metro stop is across the street. Meanwhile the hotel’s KimptonKids program offers welcome gifts, a list of kid-friendly activities, and the loan of high chairs, cribs, and other equipment. The hotel’s excellent restaurant, Poste, offers a fun and tasty kid’s menu. And as with all Kimptons, you get a goldfish delivered to your room if you so desire.

Omni Shoreham Hotel Red-Star3_redstar3_box.jpg (p. 60)    With two pools, including a kiddie pool, loads of lawn to wander around and Rock Creek Park beyond that, the National Zoo up the street, as well as the Metro nearby to take you throughout D.C., the Omni is the best hotel in town for families. The hotel sweetens the deal with its children’s amenities: a backpack filled with games and bottled water that the child can wear when you set off sightseeing; and cookies and milk left in the room at turndown the first night. The hotel’s restaurant also offers a children’s menu.

1155 14th St. NW (at Thomas Circle). www.donovanhousehotel.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/383-6900 or 202/737-1200. 193 units. Weekdays $249–$499 double; weekends $179–$459 double; from $449 suite. Third person $30. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Valet parking $45. Metro: McPherson Square (Franklin Square/14th St. exit). Pets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; concierge; state-of-the-art fitness center; rooftop pool; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Hay-Adams Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg    Ho hum. In 2014 the Hay-Adams was named to Condé Nast Traveler’s Gold List as one of the “World’s Best Places to Stay,” just one of several recent awards. But excellence is never boring, and, says a staff person on my recent visit to the hotel, “people depend on that consistency and tradition.” The 87-year-old hotel’s tagline “Where nothing is overlooked but the White House,” would be corny if it were not true. The Hay-Adams is known for its sublime service as well as for being the hotel that lies closest to the White House and the only one with such straight-on views, best seen from guest rooms on the top floors six through eight. (One can also see Lafayette Square, the Washington Monument, and the Jefferson Memorial.) Views in other rooms are of historic St. John’s Episcopal Church (see p. 208) and downtown buildings. So it makes sense that views determine guest room rates. Rooms are similarly sized, about 385-square-feet, and furnished with creamy white and tan toile fabrics, European linens, marble bathrooms. The interior designs that were here when Amelia Earhart stayed at the Hay in 1928—intricate plaster moldings, walnut wainscoting, and high ceilings—are still in place. Two things that were not here then are the Top of the Hay, a fabulous, private function, rooftop terrace with panoramic views, and the Off the Record bar, a regular hangout for the press and politicos.

1 Lafayette Square (at 16th and H sts.). www.hayadams.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/853-6807 or 202/638-6600. 145 units. Weekdays $425–$1,250 double; weekends $329–$929 double; from $829 junior suite; from $1,299 1-bedroom suite. Two-bedroom suites available. Third person $30. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Valet parking $49. Metro: Farragut West (17th St. exit). Pets under 25 lb. accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; state-of-the-art fitness facility; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Hampton Inn White House Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    Housed in the former Kiplinger Editors building located a block from the White House, the Hampton Inn opened on June 1, 2013 and started selling out immediately. Visitors, whether business or leisure, really like having a moderately priced option in this part of town, where it’s possible to walk most everywhere: to the White House, the National Mall, Georgetown. For spots further away, like the Capitol, the Metro awaits. Look for interior design references (word plays and artful lettering) to the building’s journalism roots throughout the expansive lobby/living room, where the popular, complimentary hot breakfast includes eggs, sausages or bacon, and waffles. Another plus is the 24-hour grab and go market in the lobby. Families take note: The hotel has 89 standard king rooms, which accommodate a maximum of two people, and 26 double queen rooms, which hold four maximum, and there are no connecting rooms. The hotel has a very urban feel, which means city sounds will be part of your experience and views are mainly of office buildings.

1729 H St. NW (btw. 17th and 18th sts.). www.washingtondcwhitehouse.hamptoninn.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/HAMPTON (426-7866) or 202/296-1006. 116 units. Year-round weekdays $259–$499; weekends $149–$299. Rates include “Hot Breakfast Buffet.” Parking $35 (height and length limits). Metro: Farragut West (17th and I Sts. exit). No pets. Amenities: Concierge; fitness center; small indoor pool; coin-op laundry room; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

The Quincy Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    The Quincy is nothing fancy, but it’s perfectly adequate, especially for its reasonable rates, which is saying something in this part of town. The White House is a couple of blocks away; the K Street and Pennsylvania Avenue corridors of lobbying, law, and international organization offices are directly south of The Quincy’s L Street location. Weekdays, The Quincy’s clientele draws from these segments—the World Bank has an ongoing contract here. Weekends, the hotel belongs to tourists and families, who appreciate The Quincy’s low weekend rates and convenient access to nearby Metro stops. The Quincy calls all of its rooms “suites,” but not all contain two rooms. Some are open-plan king studios with wet bars (minifridge, microwave, and Keurig coffeemaker), others are simply rooms with two double beds, and queen efficiencies, in which the sofa pulls out into a bed and the full kitchen is in a separate room. All of the suites are 400 square feet in size. Good to know: The Quincy hosts a complimentary sangria hour Wednesday evenings.

1823 L St. NW (btw. 18th and 19th sts.). www.thequincy.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/424-2970 or 202/223-4320. 99 units. Year-round weekdays $189–$289; weekends $99–$149. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $30 (in adjoining garage). Metro: Farragut North (L St. exit). Pets welcome for $25 a day. Amenities: Free passes to nearby full-service Gold’s Gym; room service from Mackey’s restaurant (next door); Wi-Fi (free).

   Extended Stays in the Heart of the City

Travelers to Washington, D.C. who plan to visit for a week or longer should know about the centrally located AKA White House District Black-Star3_bstar3.jpg apartments/hotel, 1710 H St. NW (www.stayaka.com; Black-Phone_bphone.jpg 202/904-2500). The D.C. location is one of ten AKA properties (others are in NYC, Beverly Hills, Philadelphia, London, and Arlington, VA), all of which offer luxuriously furnished one- and two-bedroom apartments, for short term and extended stays. AKA offers tremendous value, especially when your timing is right: I plugged in some July dates in 2014 and found that a one-bedroom suite was available at the White House District location for $205 a night, which was lower than the $214 rate offered for a studio suite at the nearby budget hotel The Quincy. I know which one I’d choose! Check out the website to see for yourself some of the property’s fine appointments and amenities, including fully equipped kitchens, stylish decor, free Wi-Fi, an on-site fitness center, and a washer/dryer in each apartment. K Street law offices, the White House, the Corcoran Contemporary, National Gallery, and excellent restaurants, like Bombay Club (p. 73), are just some of the property’s notable neighbors. FYI: While it’s true that AKA serves mainly as an extended stay property, it also accommodates visitors for nightly or a few nights’ stay, as availability allows.

Adams Morgan

The hotel listed here is situated just north of Dupont Circle, at the mouth of Adams Morgan rather than within its actual boundaries.

Best for: Travelers who want to stay “in” the city but out of the fray.

Drawbacks: The closest Metro stop (Dupont Circle) is several blocks away.

Moderate

The Normandy Hotel Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    This boutique hotel is charming, it’s Parisian, and it’s pretty. The six-floor Normandy lies on a tree-shaded street lined with embassies, Macedonia’s, Algeria’s, and Senegal’s among them; not surprisingly, the clientele is an international mix. You’re a peaceful detour right off of busy Connecticut Avenue and only minutes away, by foot, from the heart of the Dupont Circle, Adams Morgan, and Woodley Park neighborhoods. The Normandy’s 75 rooms range in size, measuring between 210 and 352 square feet, and each makes good use of the space with cleverly designed and positioned furnishings: long, skinny desks, clever little reading lamps whose stems you can twist out of the walls just so; and compact Nespresso coffee machines and glass-fronted refrigerators placed out of the way. Front-facing rooms overlook tranquil Wyoming Avenue, while those at the back survey the courtyard. Three first floor rooms open to a private garden terrace. Also on the first level is the parquet-floored lounge, with little sofas, armchairs, round tables, and a fireplace. Guests enjoy the $12 continental breakfast here or in the petite courtyard each morning and the complimentary wine and cheese hour held every evening.

Although The Normandy is perfect for couples and solo travelers, Avenue Suites (see listing on p. 56), in the same hotel family, might be a better choice for groups, large families, and those who crave a lot of space.

2118 Wyoming Ave. NW (at Connecticut Ave.). www.thenormandydc.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 202/483-1350. 75 units. $129–$299 double. Call or access The Normandy’s website for best deals, which can fall well below the rack rate, and may include discounts on parking. Rates include evening wine and cheese hour and coffee and tea throughout the day. Extra person $20. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Limited parking $34 plus tax. Metro: Dupont Circle (North/Q St. exit). Dogs 20 lb. or under allowed. Amenities: Free fitness passes to nearby Mint Fitness Center and 10% off services at its spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Dupont Circle

This neighborhood of quaint town houses and beautiful embassies, bistro restaurants, art galleries, and bars is home to more hotels than any other neighborhood in the city. Boutique hotels reign supreme, though several chains have outposts here, too.

Best for: Travelers who love a city scene minus the office buildings. Also for gay and lesbian visitors, since Dupont Circle is LGBT Central.

Drawbacks: If you have business on Capitol Hill or in the Penn Quarter, this might not be your first choice, since there are plenty of closer options.

Expensive

The Jefferson Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg    If you can afford to, stay at The Jefferson, which I consider to be D.C.’s best hotel. And if you can’t afford to, at least stop in at Quill Black-Star3_bstar3.jpg (p. 176), the hotel’s delightful bar, where the bartender will invent a cocktail to please you, right on the spot, or serve you a concoction, such as the William Shakespeare (gin, sherry—favored in Elizabethan times—lime juice, Triple Sec, a drop of absinthe, and a rose petal garnish), created in April 2014 to celebrate Shakespeare’s birthday and National Poetry Month. Located slightly off the beaten track, about 12 mile north of the White House, The Jefferson is an exclusive refuge for privacy seekers, and truly exudes the ambience of a country house hotel. Decor throughout pays homage to Thomas Jefferson in all his passions, from Quill’s display of 18th-century maps tracing the oenophile’s journeys through the wine regions of France, to guest room fabrics imprinted with architectural and agricultural scenes of Monticello. A handful of rooms catch glimpses of the Washington Monument a mile away, another few look to the White House, at the end of 16th Street; none, alas, capture the sight of the Jefferson Memorial a bit beyond. In addition to Quill and the lovely, skylit Greenhouse restaurant, the hotel’s dining options include the sublime, 17-table Plume restaurant, which serves seasonal menus inspired by the harvest from Thomas Jefferson’s kitchen gardens at Monticello.

1200 16th St. NW (at M St.). www.jeffersondc.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 202/448-2300. 95 units. $350–$600 double; $650–$11,000 suite. Extra person $30. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $45. Metro: Farragut North (L St. and Connecticut Ave. exit). Dogs welcome. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar/lounge; children’s amenities; concierge; in-house historian on site Saturdays 9am–1pm to answer questions and dispense advice about touring historic sites (free); 24-hr. on-site fitness center; spa w/hair salon, massages, and facials; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

The Dupont Circle Hotel Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    The Dupont Circle Hotel is now the sole D.C. property of the Dublin-based hotel company the Doyle Collection, which, in 2013, sold its two other hotels here. Doyle intends to hold on to the Dupont—it spent $52 million on a grand renovation in 2009 to 2010, after all, and in the fall of 2014 completed an extensive overhaul of its three main ballrooms. You’ll hear some Irish accents here, for sure, as well as various languages of the Dupont’s international clientele, some of whom have business at nearby embassies. (Most of the capital’s embassies are headquartered along Massachusetts Avenue in this Dupont Circle neighborhood.) Guest rooms are quite chic, with frosted glass doors separating bathroom from bedroom, wooden blinds on windows, and leather-wrapped headboards on beds. Level Nine is the hotel’s concierge floor, offering the choice of luxury service and suites (glass balconies! hardwood floors!) at an otherwise moderately priced property. No other hotel sits right on Dupont Circle, which is the name not only for the neighborhood but also for the urban park around which the traffic swirls. The park is a performance space in its own right. So don’t miss the chance to sit outside on the terrace of the Café Dupont and enjoy a drink or a meal and watch the goings-on.

1500 New Hampshire Ave. NW (across from Dupont Circle). www.thedupontcirclehotel.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 866/534-6835 or 202/483-6000. 327 units. From $239 double; from $650 suite. Extra person $20. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $32. Metro: Dupont Circle (either exit). Dogs 20 lb. or under allowed, with flat $150 nonrefundable fee. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; concierge-level rooms; state-of-the-art fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Embassy Circle Guest House Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    A number of D.C.’s bed and breakfast inns have closed or gone bankrupt in recent years, but the Embassy Circle and its sibling Woodley Park Guest House are thriving. In fact, says innkeeper Laura Saba, “The average reservation is for 4 nights,” by way of noting the enduring popularity of both Washington, D.C. and the guest houses, which Laura and husband Raymond Saba opened in 2000 (Woodley Park inn) and 2007 (Embassy Circle inn). The www.dcinns.com website links you to both inns. Of the two, Embassy Circle, housed in a turn-of-the-20th-century mansion, is the more upscale and sophisticated option, reflecting its Embassy Row neighborhood of chancelleries and embassies and the artistic vibe of Dupont Circle, with its galleries and hip cafes. Guests are welcome to enjoy complimentary wine and snacks each evening in the elegant parlor, and an extensive complimentary breakfast, including a hot entree, every morning in the dining room. Guest rooms take their decorative cues and their names from the antique Persian carpet displayed in each. So room no. 124, the Pearl Gazvin, presents the carpet of that name and a creamy, tranquil decor to complement it. The Red Kashan carpet adds vivid color to its namesake, room no. 111, further enhanced by the room’s brilliant paintings and furnishings. As at the Woodley Park Guest House, all of the Embassy Circle’s artworks are original pieces created by artists who have stayed there. The inn also has an elevator, a rare feature of older buildings and one that comes in handy for guests with heavy luggage or disabilities. For lovely lodging at slightly lower rates, do check out the Woodley Park Guest House, located near the National Zoo.

2224 R St. NW (at Massachusetts Ave.). www.dcinns.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 877/232-7744 or 202/232-7744. 11 units, each with private bathroom. High season $240–$310 double, low season $180-$240 double. Rates include extensive continental breakfast and evening wine and snacks. Limited parking; call for specific dates and information. Metro: Dupont Circle (Q St. exit) or Foggy Bottom. (Well-behaved) children 8 and older. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Helix Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    The Helix is the perfect place to stay if you’re interested in exploring the city’s hottest neighborhood, the U & 14th Street Corridors. Simply venture a few yards to your right on exiting the hotel, and you reach 14th Street, one of the two heartbeats of this district. Turn in either direction at the corner and start your engine: Estadio, Birch and Barley, Churchkey, and many other happenin’ eateries and bars await. The Helix is perfect because it is the hotel closest to the action, but also because it speaks the same trendy language. Take your cues from the neon green–colored furniture, striped fabrics, the PEZ and Pop Rocks candies in the minibar, the Andy Warholish artwork, and other attention-grabbing decor, and have fun, fun, fun! Guest rooms, averaging 400 square feet, aim for uncluttered comfort: thick-mattressed platform beds sit inside alcoves (in king deluxe rooms), a petite settee backs up against a triangular desk, leaving much wide open space. There are 18 suites, each with bedroom separate from the living room. The Kimpton Specialty rooms here feature “Eats” rooms, which have fully equipped kitchenettes; and “Bunk” rooms, popular with families. And just so you know: The closest Metro stop is about a half-mile away, so the DC Circulator bus, which stops a couple of blocks away every 10 minutes, might be a better bet. But this is compact Washington, so you’re never far from many attractions.

   All That Jazz

For a pleasurable evening’s entertainment, you sometimes need look no further than the bar/lounge or in-house restaurant of your hotel—or one nearby. The genre is usually jazz, the performers are top-notch, and the admission is free for guests and non-guests alike. So if it’s a Sunday, Monday, or Tuesday night, you might want to plant yourself in the paneled parlor of the Hotel Tabard Inn (p. 55) to listen to bassist Victor Dvoskin or another local musician play world-class jazz, usually accompanied by a guitarist or pianist. And every single night starting at 9pm, the Phoenix Park Hotel’s (p. 46) Dubliner restaurant is the place to be if you enjoy hoisting a pint to the tune of “Danny Boy” and rowdier Irish ballads, performed live by musicians with names like Conor Malone and Andy O’Driscoll.

1430 Rhode Island Ave. NW (btw. 14th and 15th sts.). www.hotelhelix.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/706-1202 or 202/462-9001. 178 units. $149–$329 double. Expect to pay an additional $30+ for specialty rooms, an additional $100-$200 for suites. Best rates usually Fri–Sun. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include hosted evening “bubbly hour” (champagne). Parking $42. Metro: McPherson Square (Vermont St./White House exit). Pets welcome. Amenities: Bar/cafe; bikes; children’s amenity program; exercise room; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Madera Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    A 2013 renovation held on to the Madera’s overall earthy vibe but switched out animal prints and dark woods, replacing them with colorful Polynesian accents. Red, nubby terrycloth wraps the rippled headboards, and vibrant batik fabrics cover pillows and bed throws. Rooms are still large and comfortable, with some offering balconies overlooking New Hampshire Avenue and the Dupont Circle neighborhood, others, on floors six and higher at the rear of the hotel, overlooking some of Rock Creek Park, and northwest to the Washington National Cathedral. Best are the executive king rooms, which have a small sitting area with a pullout sofa. Firefly remains a favorite restaurant, enjoyed as much for its craft cocktails as for its seasonally driven menu.

1310 New Hampshire Ave. NW (btw. N and O sts.). www.hotelmadera.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/430-1202 or 202/296-7600. 82 units. $149–$439 double. Add $40 for a specialty room. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include complimentary morning coffee (6–9am) and hosted evening wine hour. Parking $46. Metro: Dupont Circle (South/19th St. exit). Pets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; babysitting; bikes; children’s amenity program; concierge; complimentary access to the gym at nearby sister hotel, Hotel Palomar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Rouge Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg The Rouge comes by its name honestly, as you’ll note when you step across the red terrazzo tile floor in the lobby or take in the guestrooms’ red faux-leather headboards and bed frames covered with red-piping-bordered white duvets. The fun continues in the dressing room, which holds a brilliant orange dresser, with contents including a built-in minibar and goofy goodies like red wax lips. Spacious rooms easily accommodate Italian-style lounge chairs, pedestal nightstands modeled after Grecian columns, a huge mirror positioned to reflect the living-room-like space, and a 10-foot-long mahogany desk. Specialty rooms are available, including the Bunk Room, which has a space for Mom and Dad and a separate, cozy little nest of a bunk bed for the kids, with drapes to pull closed for privacy and secrets, and a tiny fridge stocked with kiddie treats.

1315 16th St. NW (at Massachusetts Ave. and Scott Circle). www.rougehotel.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/738-1202 or 202/232-8000. 137 units. $149–$359 double. Add $40 for a specialty room. Best rates available on the website or by calling the toll-free reservations number and asking for promotional price. Rates include complimentary Bloody Marys and cold pizza weekend mornings 11am–noon and hosted evening wine hour weeknights 5–6pm. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $42. Metro: Dupont Circle (South/19th St. exit). Pets welcome and pampered. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; children’s amenity program; bikes; modest-sized fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Topaz Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    Other hotels may be dispensing with in-room minibars, but not Kimptons and not the Topaz, whose honor bars in 2014 held goodies such as Honest Tea, Luna bars, and mineral water. And as with all Kimpton hotels, guests who sign up for the no-cost loyalty program receive a $10 credit toward a minibar purchase, as well as free Wi-Fi access. The minibar’s exotic teas and other soothing items give you a hint that the Topaz is aiming to be an “urban oasis, a warm and tranquil escape from the hustle bustle,” as the website helpfully points out. Decor throughout guest rooms leans toward tranquility, too: Comfy platform beds are triple-sheeted and topped with down comforters; furnishings are done in inky black and mesmerizing shades of purple, blue, and pale green; a yoga mat comes with the room. Rooms measure a generous 375 square feet; some have alcoves and dressing rooms. Best spots for quiet and views are N Street–facing rooms on the upper floors. Best spots for revelry are the Topaz bar to start with, then out to nearby Dupont Circle clubs for heartier times.

1733 N St. NW (btw. 17th and 18th sts., next to the Hotel Tabard Inn [see below]). www.topazhotel.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/775-1202 or 202/393-3000. 99 units. $149–$369 double; $45 more for specialty rooms. It is very likely you can get a much lower rate by calling direct to the hotel or by booking a reservation online. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include complimentary morning coffee and tea service, and hosted evening wine reception. Parking $43. Metro: Dupont Circle (North/Q St. NW). Pets welcome. Amenities: Bar/restaurant; babysitting; bikes; children’s amenity program; concierge; complimentary access to nearby health club; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Hotel Tabard Inn Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg     Fans of quaintness and quirks will continue to find them throughout the three joined 19th-century town houses that make up the inn. Nooks, bay windows, exposed brick walls, vibrant colored walls (shades of purple, or chartreuse, or periwinkle, for instance), flea market finds, and antiques are some of the characteristics of individual guest rooms. Quaintness also means that there are no televisions in guestrooms and no elevator, which can pose a challenge to those trudging upstairs with or without luggage to lodging on the third or fourth floors. The Tabard is a beloved institution to locals, who flock to the Tabard Inn’s charming and highly acclaimed restaurant (p. 55) and to the adjoining, paneled lounge for drinks and, on Sunday through Tuesday nights, jazz.

Note: Its narrow hallways and lack of elevators means the inn is not a good choice for guests with disabilities.

1739 N St. NW (btw. 17th and 18th sts.). www.tabardinn.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 202/785-1277. 38 units, 29 with private bathroom (6 with shower only). $125–$155 single with shared bathroom; $165–$265 single with private bathroom. Add $20 for second person. Rates include continental breakfast. Limited street parking, plus nearby public parking garages. Metro: Dupont Circle (South/19th St. exit). Small and confined pets accepted for a $25 fee. Amenities: Restaurant w/lounge (free live jazz Sun–Tues evenings); free computer access in lobby (fax and printing available for small fee); free access to nearby YMCA w/extensive facilities that include indoor pool, indoor track, and racquetball/basketball courts; Wi-Fi (free).

Foggy Bottom/West End

This section of town is halfway between the White House and Georgetown; Foggy Bottom lies south of Pennsylvania Avenue, and the West End north. Together the neighborhoods are home to town-house–lined streets, the George Washington University, International Monetary Fund offices, World Bank headquarters, and mostly all-suites and upscale lodging choices.

Best for: Parents visiting their kids at GW, international business travelers, and those who desire proximity to the Kennedy Center, also located here.

Drawbacks: There are 10,000 undergraduate students who attend GW and who sometimes make their presence known throughout the Foggy Bottom neighborhood in ways you’d rather they wouldn’t. On the flip side, the West End might seem too quiet if you like being where the action is.

Moderate

Avenue Suites Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    When Avenue Suites debuted in the spring of 2012, it garnered as much press for its bar, A BAR, as for its transformation of the old Washington Suites hotel. Granted, the terrace lounge with its comfy furniture, fire pit, and green garden wall is a charming place to enjoy the nightly happy hour, as the city’s 20-somethings often do. But let’s cut to the chase: All of the 124 suites in this all-suite hotel are one-bedroom, measure a remarkably spacious 600 to 650 square feet, and include a sleep sofa in the separate living room, a fully equipped kitchen (Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s stores are nearby), and a trendy but comfortable decor, all at quite an affordable rate, though that varies by peak/off-peak times. A helpful feature on the hotel’s website is an availability chart that also posts daily rates. Other things to recommend the hotel are its prime location on the cusp of Georgetown and within walking distance of the White House, a Metro stop, and other attractions and pool privileges at nearby sister hotel, One Washington Circle (see below). By the way, interior rooms at the back of the house overlook A BAR, so during the warm seasons, especially, you might want to try for a top floor room on the 25th Street side.

2500 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at 25th St.). www.avenuesuites.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 888/874-0100 or 202/333-8060. 124 units. Peak: $295–$349, off-peak: $129–$269. Extra person $20. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $34 plus tax. Pets: $25 per day fee. Metro: Foggy Bottom. Amenities: Bar; concierge; fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

The River Inn Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg    Nestled among quaint town houses on a quiet side street a short walk away from the Kennedy Center, Georgetown, the White House, and the Foggy Bottom Metro station, The River Inn is a comfortable refuge for all sorts except rabble-rousers. Most of the units in the all-suite property are studios, in which the bedroom and living room are combined; 31 units, the Potomac Suites, are one-bedrooms, which are roomier and include a king-size bed and a second TV in the separate bedroom. All guest rooms provide a full kitchen, bed topped with pillowtop mattress, cushy armchair, a sophisticated decor, and a sleep sofa. Upper floor suites offer views of the Potomac River and two, nos. 702 and 802 catch sight of the Washington Monument. Complimentary bikes (based on availability), on-site coin-operated laundry machines, and an especially gracious staff are among the pluses that keep the inn steeped in bookings from happy repeat customers.

924 25th St. NW (btw. K and I sts.). www.theriverinn.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 888/874-0100 or 202/337-7600. 125 units. Peak weekdays $299–$354 double, weekends $149–$199 double; off-peak weekdays $159–$255 double, weekends $99–$149 double. Add $35 for 1-bedroom suite. Extra person $20. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $34 plus 18% tax. Metro: Foggy Bottom. Pets under 40 lb. welcome for nonrefundable $150 fee. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; concierge; small fitness center; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

One Washington Circle Hotel Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    Even this hotel’s smallest room (measuring 390 sq. ft.) is more spacious than the largest room at some other D.C. hotels. The biggest suites here encompass more than 700 feet. All of the rooms are suites, with separate full kitchens in 90% of the units and kitchenettes in the remainder. Families especially, but also business travelers, love the chance to spread out, the outdoor pool, the on-site restaurant, and the location near the Foggy Bottom Metro stations, Georgetown, and the White House. Most rooms have walkout balconies. One Washington Circle is situated, as it sounds, right on Washington Circle, and across from the George Washington University Hospital. Double-paned windows help screen some of the siren sounds, but for quietest sleep, ask for a room on the 8th or 9th floor facing L Street or New Hampshire Avenue. George Washington University–affiliated guests may be eligible for discounts.

1 Washington Circle NW (btw. 22nd and 23rd sts. NW). www.thecirclehotel.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/424-9671 or 202/872-1680. 151 units. Weekdays $159–$299 smallest suites, $199–$339 largest suites; weekends $109–$199 smallest suites, $159–$239 largest suites. Call hotel or look on the website to get best rates, including special offers. Extra person $20. Pets accepted. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include complimentary specialty drink (could be wine, sangria, locally brewed beer) and a chef-picked appetizer 5–6pm nightly in the lobby; fresh apples and fruit-infused water available all day in lobby. Parking $40. Metro: Foggy Bottom. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness center; outdoor pool; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Georgetown

Bustling day and night with shoppers and tourists, Georgetown’s handful of hotels range from the city’s most sublime accommodations to one that I believe offers one of the best values in town.

Best for: Shopaholics, tourists, and parents, students, and academics visiting Georgetown University.

Drawbacks: Crowds throng sidewalks; cars snarl traffic daily. College kids and 20-somethings party hearty here nightly, but especially on weekends.

Expensive

Capella Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg    One of the capital’s newest hotels (it opened March 2013) is also its most decadently luxurious. Personal assistants are at your service 24/7. The hotel has a resident stylist, who is available to take you on after-hours shopping sprees at Saks Fifth Avenue and other upscale retailers, or will shop for you. Would you like to surprise your tiny dancer with a walk-on role in The Washington Ballet’s performance of The Nutcracker, or a chance to sit in on rehearsal? Done. And then there are the practical pluses, like the hotel’s flexible check-in/checkout policy; the complimentary continental breakfast available daily in the hotel’s Living Room; and the complimentary stock of juice, bottled water, coffee, and sodas on hand in each guest room. The Capella sits alongside the C&O Canal, and some of its 49 rooms overlook the canal, as do the bar and the seasonal outdoor terrace: very nice. Rooms range in size from 359 to 504 square feet; suites go up from there. Guest room furnishings make fashion statements with their mix of contemporary accents, dark hardwood floors, and pewter lamps. A rooftop lounge includes a fitness center, indoor/outdoor relaxation pool, and views of Georgetown, the Kennedy Center, a bit of the Potomac River, and the Washington Monument. The Capella’s Rye Bar is already a hot spot, while the Grill Room restaurant is gaining in acclaim.

1050 31st St. NW (below M St.). www.capellawashingtondc.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 855/922-7355 or 202/617-2400. 49 units. Off peak: from $595 double, from $1,545 suite; Peak: from $745 double, from $2,295 suite. Rates include complimentary continental breakfast daily. Parking $48. Metro: Foggy Bottom. Pets accepted with refundable $250 deposit. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting; children’s programs; concierge; rooftop fitness center and relaxation pool; in-room spa services; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

The Graham Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    Following the multimillion dollar renovation of the property previously known as The Monticello, The Graham Georgetown opened April 15, 2013, and it’s a stunner. Named for the inventor of the telephone, Alexander Graham Bell, who once lived and worked nearby (who knew?), the seven-story hotel holds 57 rooms, nearly half of them standard guest rooms with either a king bed or two queens; the rest suites, either junior or full, each with a king bed. Largest are king suites, which have a king-size pullout sofa in the separate living room. Each unit is similarly and stylishly decorated in shades of grays, whites, and pale blue, with white, tufted-leather headboards on beds made up in Irish linens. The pretty bathrooms feature white marbled floors and walls, Mexican accent tiles, and L’Occitane amenities. There’s a darling restaurant on the lower level, A.G.B. (after you-know-who), whose exposed brick, paneled walls, and dark hardwood floors add pubby charm. Meanwhile, the seasonal (spring through fall) Observatory rooftop bar offers ones of the best views in town; it wraps around the building, so you’re able to take in Georgetown and the cityscape, including the Washington Monument, from various angles. The bar welcomes hotel guests and attracts a sea of scene-seeking Washingtonians, as well, which means: 1. You must reserve a spot, and 2. You might want to consider wearing something trendy, though not too trendy: There’s a dress code! The hotel website turns up some pretty good deals, especially if you can be flexible and are able to book your stay in advance.

1075 Thomas Jefferson St. NW (just below M St.). www.thegrahamgeorgetown.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 855/341-1292 or 202/337-0900. 57 units. Rates: from $300 for a king or double queen room off-peak to $600 for a king suite in peak times; check the website for best rates. Extra person $25. Children under 8 stay free in parent’s room. Parking $48. Pets not allowed. Metro: Foggy Bottom. Amenities: Restaurant, rooftop bar and lounge, bikes, concierge, exercise room; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Georgetown Suites Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg    The pros: The location is unbeatable, just off busy M Street in Georgetown, seconds away from the picturesque C&O Canal and its towpath, but also nearby posh shops and fun restaurants and bars. Staff is cheery. Suites are quite spacious (studios measure 500 sq. ft., one-bedrooms 800 sq. ft.). All have full kitchens, which in 2014 received new flooring, cabinetry, appliances, and granite countertops. The same renovation replaced old bed frames with platform beds, changed out desks and dressers, added luxury linens, and installed a new state of the art wireless internet system. The hotel is also “working with a design team to assist with updating artwork, wall covering and color schemes in the guest rooms,” says Pam, director of sales. The expanded and updated lobby lounge is the location for a complimentary continental breakfast. The hotel’s second location, at the Harbour Building on 29th Street, lies just across from the Washington Harbour Complex, whose attractions include tour boats that cruise the Potomac River and an ice skating rink that is the largest outdoor rink in the city. The Harbour Building was also renovated.

New Hotels Are popping up All Over

Washington, D.C. is in the middle of a hotel construction boom; Destination D.C., Washington’s tourism and convention corporation, estimates that more than 20 properties are in the pipeline for completion in the next few years. That’s a lotta lodging! The interesting thing is where these hotels are popping up: NoMa. Southwest Waterfront. Capitol Riverfront. Mount Vernon Square. Sound familiar? Probably not. But these neighborhoods are where big things are happening, as D.C.’s economy continues to flourish, attracting developers, entrepreneurs, international investors, and residents to explore new pockets. In fact, the city’s biggest new hotel (the city’s biggest hotel now, period, with 1,175 rooms), the Marriott Marquis Washington, D.C., is located in a freshly revitalized quarter called Mount Vernon Square, due north of the Penn Quarter and the greater downtown. The hotel, which opened in May 2014, is the Walter E. Washington Convention Center’s hotel, and is, in fact, connected to the convention center by underground passage.

 So before you decide to look only in downtown or Georgetown or the usual familiar spots for your stay in the capital, be sure also to check out some of the lesser known areas (see chapter 2 for neighborhood descriptions), where new hotels are opening all the time. Because here’s the thing: You just might be able to negotiate a better rate at a hotel in an off-the-radar neighborhood; you’ll enjoy individual characteristics not found elsewhere (like the Waterfront’s waterfront!); and you can be assured that no matter the neighborhood, you’re never far from the center of town, in this compact city. Interested? Here are some of the hotels that debuted in late 2014 or are slated to open in 2015. Why not give these a go:

Mount Vernon Square:

Marriott Marquis, Washington, D.C.; 901 Massachusetts Ave. NW; Red-Phone_redphone_box.jpg 202/824-9200; www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/wasco -marriott-marquis-washington-dc.

Cambria Suites Washington, D.C. Convention Center, 899 O St. NW, Red-Phone_redphone_box.jpg 202/299-1188; www.cambriasuites.com/hotel-washington-district_of_columbia-DC018.

NoMa: Hyatt Place Washington, D.C./US Capitol, 33 New York Ave. NE, Red-Phone_redphone_box.jpg 202/289-5599; www.washingtondcuscapitol.place.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html.

Southwest Waterfront: Hyatt Place Washington D.C. Capitol/National Mall, 400 E St. SW. (phone number and website not available at time of research).

Capitol Riverfront:

Half Street Hotel, 55 M St. SE, www.halfstreet.com.

Hampton Inn, N St. and First St. SE. (website and phone number not available at time of research.)

The cons: The hotel will always have a whiff of college dorm about it, thanks to its architecture and layout, and a clientele often made up of college-visiting students. The noise of traffic and revelers is an annoying factor for rooms on the lower floors of the 30th Street building, despite the hotel’s recessed position off the street. The Harbour Building lies right next to the Whitehurst Freeway, so rooms facing the freeway get those unattractive views and the racket of traffic.

Conclusion: You won’t find better value in the city, and certainly not in Georgetown. At the 30th Street location, ask for a room on an upper floor, or, if budget allows, consider one of the two-level, two-bedroom town houses or one of the penthouse suites, whose terraces overlook Georgetown rooftops. At the 29th Street location, ask for a courtyard-side suite.

1111 30th St. NW (just below M St.) and 1000 29th St. NW (at K St.). www.georgetownsuites.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/348-7203 or 202/298-7800. 220 units. Weekdays $185 studio, $215 1-bedroom suite; weekends $155 studio, $185 1-bedroom suite; penthouse suites from $350; town houses from $425. Rollaway or sleeper sofa $10 extra. Rates include continental breakfast. Limited parking $20. Metro: Foggy Bottom. Amenities: Executive-level rooms; small exercise room; Wi-Fi (free).

Woodley Park

This Connecticut Avenue–centered upper northwest enclave is a residential neighborhood of little stores and restaurants, the National Zoo, and two of Washington’s biggest hotels.

Best for: Families who like a tamer experience than found downtown and proximity to Rock Creek Park and the zoo. Business travelers attending a meeting in one of Woodley Park’s big hotels.

Drawbacks: This area may be a little too quiet for some, especially at night.

Moderate

Omni Shoreham Hotel Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg    Step from the jammed up streets of D.C. into the Omni Shoreham’s lovely and enormous lobby and it really does feel like you’ve arrived at a resort. It’s the towering ceiling, the chandeliers, and the sheer expanse of lobby leading back, down through the dining room and out the French doors to the terrace and the acres of landscaped lawns, all backing up to Rock Creek Park. Truly, one of the pleasures of staying here is exploring the premises. Poke your head in the Palladian Ballroom to inspect its muralled scenes of Monticello; the Palladian and the Diplomat (modeled after the East Room of the White House) ballrooms were spruced up in 2013. The Omni was built in 1930 as a hotel and apartment building, so its guest rooms are of varying sizes and interesting shapes. For best views and quiet, ask for a parkview room at the back of the house, preferably with a balcony (15% of the rooms have them), and within sight of the Washington Monument. You should also sign up (it’s free) for the Omni Select Guest Loyalty program, which allows you a complimentary bundle of worth-it privileges, such as Wi-Fi, morning beverage room service, pressing service, and shoe shine. The Omni attracts a lot of groups, thanks to its size (11 acres, 836 rooms, 24 meeting rooms, several ballrooms), but families love it, too, for its large seasonal pool and smaller kiddie pool, children’s amenities (backpack of games given at check-in, cookies and milk delivered on the first evening), its onsite restaurants, and its proximity to Rock Creek Park and the National Zoo.

2500 Calvert St. NW (near Connecticut Ave.). www.omnihotels.com/dc. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 800/843-6664 or 202/234-0700. 836 units. $199–$359 double; from $350 suite. Call the hotel directly for best rates. Extra person $30. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Parking $35. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo. Pets under 25 lb. allowed; $50 cleaning fee. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar/lounge; children’s amenities program; concierge; fitness center w/heated outdoor pool, separate kids’ pool, whirlpool, and spa services by appointment; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Kalorama Guest House Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg    Kalorama’s rambling red-brick house blends right in among the large town houses and family dwellings in this residential neighborhood. Built in 1910, the house retains an old-timey feeling about it. That’s partly due to its 115-year old design: old wood floors, fireplaces (decorative only) in lots of rooms, paneled wainscoting along the stairwell, a tin ceiling here and there. And it’s partly due to the furnishings, which come from estate sales and antiques auctions. Owner Jack Shrestha adds to the homey feel, fussily offering cookies and coffee and pointing out the communal family room, kitchen and laundry room facilities, even as he’s pulling out photos to show you of his 2-year-old daughter. (Speaking of children, Shrestha notes that the inn is best for well-behaved children over 6.) Least expensive rooms are two in the basement that share a bathroom; these two rooms, plus a large room on this floor with its own television, have their own entrance from the street. Basement rooms, by the way, do have windows, and are as pleasantly furnished as any upstairs. Nicest, in my opinion, is the sole room on the first floor; built-in bookcases and a sleigh bed are part of its charm. You’re in a great area, with the zoo, good restaurants, Rock Creek Park, and the Woodly Park Metro stop all within a short walk.

2700 Cathedral Ave. NW (off Connecticut Ave.). www.kaloramaguesthouse.com. Red-Phone_redphone.jpg 202/588-8188. 10 units, 8 w/private bath. $109–$249 single or double. Rates include expansive breakfast and complimentary wine and cookies. Extra person (including children) $25. Street parking permit $15 plus 18% tax. Metro: Woodley Park–Zoo. Amenities: Access to gym at nearby Marriott with $10 pass; Wi-Fi (free).