Entertainment & Nightlife
Nightlife in the capital is rollicking and diverse. You can play bocce at Black Jack on 14th St. (p.174), head to U Street to dance your heart out at Marvin (p. 175), take a turn at karaoke at Hill Country Barbecue (p. 174) in the Penn Quarter, or settle in for top-notch jazz at Blues Alley (p. 177) in Georgetown. Internationally renowned performing-arts venues like the Kennedy Center (p. 171) host performances by top theater and dance companies, while smaller theaters such as Studio Theatre (p. 173) stage bold new productions. Washington’s nightlife scene offers something for everyone.
The truth is that D.C. nightlife is not only vigorous but also competitive. One third of the city’s population is between 20 and 35; thanks to the capital’s strong economy, most people have jobs and are ready to party. And then there is everyone else, from Hill staffers to expense-account attorneys, many of whom seek entertainment after a long day at the desk. Whether you’re trying to score tickets to The Tempest at the Shakespeare Theatre (p. 172) or nab a seat at the bar at hotspot The Observatory (p. 175), success requires a get-there-first strategy.
The best neighborhoods for nightlife are Adams Morgan; the U & 14th streets NW crossroads (U St. between 16th and 9th sts., and 14th St. btw. P and V sts.); north and south of Dupont Circle along Connecticut Avenue; all over the Penn Quarter; Georgetown; the Atlas District; and Columbia Heights, an area east of Adams Morgan and north of the U Street district.
Most of D.C.’s clubs and bars stay open until 1 or 2am Monday through Thursday and until 3am Friday and Saturday; what time they open varies. It’s best to call ahead or check the website.
For current concert and club offerings, check the Washington Post’s online “Going Out Guide” (www.washingtonpost.com/gog), which covers all entertainment options, including nightlife, reported minute by minute, venue by venue, by the paper’s “going out gurus.” If you’re here on a weekend, try to pick up a copy of the Post’s Friday “Weekend” section. Washington City Paper, available free at restaurants, bookstores, and other places around town, and online at www.washingtoncitypaper.com, is another excellent resource.
The Performing Arts
Washington’s performing-arts scene has an international reputation. We have not just one but two Shakespeare theaters. Our Arena Stage is renowned for its innovative productions of American masters and new voices. The Kennedy Center reigns over all, staging something for everyone in every genre. Don’t assume that these three theaters present only classic renditions from a performing-arts hit list; no, they are each wildly creative in their choices and their presentations. On the other hand, for truly avant-garde theater, seek out smaller stages, like Woolly Mammoth and Studio theaters.
Most performing-arts and live-music venues mentioned in this chapter require tickets, which you can purchase online at the venue’s website, in person at the venue’s box office, or through one of the ticket vendors listed below.
The best deals in town might be those posted on the website www.goldstar.com. It costs nothing to subscribe, and you’ll immediately start receiving e-mail notices of hefty discounts on admission prices to performances and venues, including museums, all over the city.
Washington’s discount-ticket outlet, TICKETPLACE, sells half-price tickets online at www.ticketplace.org until 4pm for that day’s performances. TICKETPLACE is a program of the Cultural Alliance of Washington.
Ticket sellers Live Nation (www.livenation.com) and Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.com; 
800/745-3000) merged in January 2010, which means that you can buy full-price tickets for many performances in town from either operation. Expect to pay taxes plus a service charge, an order-processing fee, and a facility fee (if a particular venue tacks on that charge). Or you can visit the Ticketmaster sales booth at the Verizon Center, at 601 F St. NW (Metro: Gallery Place/Verizon Center). For the same kinds of performances, also check out www.ticketfly.com ( 877/435-9849).
Finally, check out www.instantseats.com, which bills itself as the place to go for “online ticketing for the performing arts.” (The site also sells tickets for river cruises on the Potomac, so perhaps the company defines “performing arts” to cover a multitude of entertainment.) This is the site that handles sales of tickets to embassy events (see “The Best of D.C.’s International Scene,” box, p. 180 for more information).
Theater seasons generally span the months of September through May, with the Shakespeare Theatre’s calendar often extending into July. The Kennedy Center’s season is year-round, though it is certainly less busy in July and August. Performance times at all theaters are usually at 7:30pm or 8pm nightly, with Saturday and Sunday matinee performances at 2pm and occasional Wednesday noon matinee performances on the schedule, especially at Arena Stage and the Shakespeare Theatre.
The bad news is that, as popular as theater-going is in the capital, ticket prices have gone through the roof in the past couple of years. A lot of locals subscribe to the big three (Kennedy Center, Shakespeare, Arena), which leaves fewer one-off tickets available. Expect to pay $75 to $100-plus for a ticket—unless you’re able to obtain a discounted ticket directly from the theater or from a discounted ticket service; see the “Getting Tickets” box, above.
Major Theaters & Companies
Arena Stage 
Arena Stage is located in the Southwest Waterfront neighborhood of D.C., away from the downtown area. You’ll see much construction underway that will soon make this a happenin’ place, but until then, Arena Stage is the neighborhood’s main attraction. And an attraction it is, drawing 300,000 people annually to its productions dedicated to “putting the American spirit in the spotlight.” A major expansion in 2010 made Arena Stage D.C.’s second largest theater space after the Kennedy Center. Officially called “The Mead Center for American Theater,” the venue’s three staging areas are the theater-in-the-round Fichandler, the fan-shaped Kreeger, and the intimate (200-seat), oval-shaped Kogod Cradle. Founded in 1950, Arena Stage was a pioneer and remains a leader in the regional theater movement.
Arena’s 2014 to 2015 season highlights include world premiere productions of Baskerville: A Sherlock Holmes Mystery by Ken Ludwig and The Originalist, a political drama by John Strand; a presentation of Christopher Durang’s Tony-winning comedy, Vanya and Sonia and Masha and Spike; and the musical Fiddler on the Roof, celebrating its 50th anniversary.
1101 6th St. SW (at Maine Ave.). www.arenastage.org. 
202/488-3300 for tickets, or 202/554-9066 for general information. Tickets $50–$109; discounts available for students, people with disabilities, groups, and seniors. Metro: Southwest/Waterfront.
John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts The capital’s most renowned theater covers the entire realm of performing arts: Ballet, opera, plays, musicals, modern dance, classical and chamber music, and children’s theater all take the stage at this magnificent complex overlooking the Potomac River. As a living memorial to President John F. Kennedy, the Center considers itself the nation’s theater and is committed to fulfilling the president’s mission to make the performing arts available to everyone.
Within this 17-acre arts facility lie six different theaters: the Opera House, the Concert Hall, the Terrace Theater, the Eisenhower Theater, the Theater Lab, and the Family Theater. And on their stages you can expect to see world-class performances across the cultural and entertainment spectrum. Highlights from the 2014 to 2015 season give you a hint: Lerner & Loew’s classic musical Gigi; the Scottish Ballet’s interpretation of Tennessee Williams’s Streetcar Named Desire; the National Symphony Orchestra’s 3-week celebration of Tchaikovsky; the Washington National Opera’s performance of Puccini’s La Boheme; and Iberian Suite: Arts Remix Across Continents, which is a 3-week festival highlighting the cultures of Spain and Portugal.
Visit the KenCen to attend a performance, for sure, but also consider stopping by for one of the free guided tours, which take place throughout the day. Finish the visit by attending the free “Millennium Stage” concert staged every single evening at 6pm in the Grand Foyer, each night featuring a different act, local artists mostly, but nationally known and international performers from time to time, too.
Longer than the Washington Monument Is Tall
Most Kennedy Center performances take place in theaters that lie off the Grand Foyer. But even if the one you’re attending is on the Roof Terrace level, one floor up, make sure you visit the foyer anyway. The Grand Foyer is one of the largest rooms in the world. Measuring 630 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 60 feet high, the foyer is longer than the Washington Monument is tall (5555⁄8 ft.). Millennium Stage hosts free performances here nightly at 6pm, the famous Robert Berks sculpture of President John F. Kennedy is here, and just beyond the foyer’s glass doors is the expansive terrace, which runs the length of the building and overlooks the Potomac River.
Otherwise, expect to pay ticket prices that range from $15 for a family concert to $300 for a night at the opera; most tickets cost between $45 and $100.
Whatever performance you attend, make sure you head out to the terrace for a grand view of the Potomac.
2700 F St. NW (at New Hampshire Ave. NW and Rock Creek Pkwy.). www.kennedy-center.org. 800/444-1324 or 202/467-4600. 50% discounts are offered (for select performances) to students, seniors 65 and over, people with permanent disabilities, enlisted military personnel, and persons with fixed low incomes ( 202/416-8340 for details). Garage parking $22. Metro: Foggy Bottom (though it’s a fairly short walk, there’s a free shuttle btw. the station and the Kennedy Center, departing every 15 min. 9:45am–midnight Mon–Fri, 10am–midnight Sat, and noon–midnight Sun). Bus: 80 from Metro Center.
National Theatre 
Open since 1835, the National is the capital’s oldest continuously operating theater and the country’s third oldest. In earlier days, the like of Sarah Bernhardt, Helen Hayes, and John Barrymore took the stage, and Presidents Lincoln and Fillmore and others were among those in the audience. These days, the National is almost entirely about Broadway musicals. Among the productions coming our way in the 2014-2015 season are Pippin, Chicago, Dame Edna, and Newsies. The 1,672-seat National continues its free, family-oriented, public-service programs: Saturday-morning children’s theater (puppets, clowns, magicians, dancers, and singers), and free screenings of classic films shown on select Monday nights throughout the year. 1321 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at 13th and E sts.). www.thenationaldc.com. 202/628-6161 for general information, 202/783-3372 for info about free programs, and call 800/514-3849, or go to www.etix.com to charge tickets. Tickets $48–$153 (most are in the $70–$90 range); discounts available for students, seniors, military personnel, and people with disabilities. Metro: Metro Center (13th and G sts. exit) or Federal Triangle.
Shakespeare Theatre Company at the Lansburgh Theatre and Sidney Harman Hall So popular are the Shakespeare Theatre Company’s productions that the company has two downtown locations (literally within a stone’s throw of each other, the 451-seat Lansburgh Theatre, at 450 7th Street NW, and the 775-seat Sidney Harman Hall, at 610 F St. NW, across the street from the Verizon Center), and both houses frequently sell out. Critics laud these performances as well, as the company’s 2012 Regional Theatre Tony Award indicates. You can count on imaginative and superb performances, though not all of them are Shakespeare’s works. Take a look at the 2014 to 2015 season whose plays include As You Like It, and The Tempest, but also Moliere’s Tartuffe, and the musical Man of La Mancha. The Shakespeare Theater also screens live performances of London’s National Theatre productions of Shakespeare plays.
An annual plum presentation is the “Free For All,” which stages free performances of a Shakespeare play for 2 weeks in late August into September; The Winter’s Tale was the feature in 2014.
Also check out Happenings at the Harman, which stages free acts by comedy troupes, avant-garde dance companies, and community organizations, targeting the 20- to 30-somethings. Another great deal for the under-35s is the sale of $18 tickets available after 10am every Tuesday, for performances taking place through the following Sunday. Lansburgh Theatre: 450 7th St. NW (btw. D and E sts.). Sidney Harman Hall: 610 F St. NW. www.shakespearetheatre.org. 202/547-1122. Tickets $20–$110; discounts available for students, military, patrons 21–35, seniors, and groups. Metro: Archives–Navy Memorial or Gallery Place/Verizon Center (7th St./Arena exit).
Smaller but no less compelling, these theaters stage productions that are consistently professional and often more contemporary and daring than those you’ll find in the better-known theaters. These more intimate theaters have their own strong followings, which means their performances often sell out.
Studio Theatre 
at 1501 14th St. NW, at P Street (www.studiotheatre.org; 
202/332-3300), since its founding in 1978, has grown in leaps and bounds into a four-theater complex, helping to revitalize this downtown neighborhood in the process. Productions are provocative and the season jam-packed, with 10 plays on tap for the 2014 to 2015 calendar. Former artistic director Joy Zinoman, who retired in 2010, helped to create buzz for Washington’s theater scene as well as for the U & 14th Street neighborhood in which Studio resides. Her legacy lives in Studio’s continuing success in showcasing contemporary plays and in nurturing Washington acting talent.
The Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company (www.woollymammoth.net; 202/393-3939) offers as many as six productions every year, specializing in new, offbeat, and quirky plays, often world premieres. The Woolly resides in a 265-seat, state-of-the-art facility at 641 D St. NW (at 7th St. NW), in the heart of the Penn Quarter.
In addition, I highly recommend productions staged at the Folger Shakespeare Library (201 E. Capitol St. SE, at 2nd Street; www.folger.edu; 202/544-7077), which celebrates its 83rd anniversary in 2015. Plays take place in the library’s Elizabethan Theatre, which is styled after the inn-yard theater of Shakespeare’s time. The theater is intimate and charming, the theater company is remarkably good, and an evening spent here guarantees an absolutely marvelous experience. The Elizabethan Theatre is also the setting for musical performances, lectures, readings, and other events.
Headliner Concert Venues
When Lady Gaga, Bruce Springsteen, or Beyoncé come to town, they play at the 20,600-seat Verizon Center, 601 F St. NW, at 7th Street (www.verizoncenter.com; 202/628-3200). Situated in the center of downtown, the Verizon Center hosts plenty of concerts and is also Washington’s premier indoor sports arena (see “Spectator Sports,” later in this chapter).
DAR Constitution Hall on 18th Street NW, between C and D streets (www.dar.org; 202/628-4780), is housed within a beautiful turn-of-the-20th-century Beaux Arts building and seats 3,746. Its excellent acoustics have supported an eclectic group of performers, from John Legend to John Fogerty.
In summer 2013, the 9:30 Club (see p. 178) took over the operation of the historic Lincoln Theatre 
, 1215 U St. NW, at 13th Street (www.thelincolndc.com; 202/328-6000), and thankfully has breathed new life into it. Look for indie favorites like Natalie Merchant and Ingrid Michaelson in the lineup. Once a movie theater, vaudeville house, and nightclub featuring black stars like Louis Armstrong and Cab Calloway, the theater closed in the 1970s, then reopened in 1994 after a renovation restored it to its former elegance. But somehow the theater’s appeal just never took off. Looks like this latest manoeuver by the 9:30 Club may finally have saved the Lincoln from obscurity.
The Warner Theatre , 513 13th St. NW, between E and F streets (www.warnertheatredc.com; 202/783-4000), opened in 1924 as the Earle Theatre (a movie/vaudeville palace) and was restored to its original, neoclassical-style appearance in 1992. It’s worth coming by just to see its ornately detailed interior. The 2,000-seat auditorium offers year-round entertainment, alternating dance performances, like the Washington Ballet’s Christmas performance of the Nutcracker, with comedy acts including Russell Brand, Margaret Cho, or John Oliver, and headliner musicians like Boz Scaggs.
Washington has a thriving and varied bar scene. But just when you think you know all the hot spots, a fresh batch pops up. Lately it’s the rooftop bars that draw the largest crowds. Here’s a smattering of some favorites, old and new.
Black Jack Downstairs is the super popular Pearl Dive Oyster Palace (p. 75) restaurant, and upstairs is its super-cool bar. Red velvet curtains part to reveal the fully stocked bar, and old movies project black-and-white images on the brick walls. Other bars may have pool tables and DJs; Black Jack has two full-size bocce courts, with 19 stadium seats for spectators. Lots of comfortable red vinyl seating, crafty cocktails, and “really good house-made pies,” as in pizzas, make Black Jack everyone’s favorite hangout. 1612 14th St. NW (at Corcoran St.). www.blackjackdc.com. 202/319-1612. Metro: U St./Cardozo (U and 13th sts. exit).
ChurchKey This mellow hangout draws a diverse mix, boomers to their 20-something children, all sprawled upon loungey banquettes or perched upon stools at the long bar. This is a haven for beer lovers, especially, with its 50 drafts, 500 bottles, and 5 cask ales on tap. ChurchKey’s downstairs sibling, Birch & Barley, is a popular restaurant. 1337 14th St. NW (at Rhode Island Ave.). www.churchkeydc.com. 202/567-2576. Metro: McPherson Sq. (14th St. exit) or U St./Cardozo (U and 13th sts. exit).
The Dubliner Capitol Hill big names and the media that cover them, as well as neighborhood regulars, hang here for no other reason but that the atmosphere’s Irish and the bar’s got Guinness on tap. Open from breakfast through last call, the Dubliner features live Irish music nightly. In the Phoenix Park Hotel, 520 N. Capitol St. NW (separate entrance on F St. NW). www.dublinerdc.com. 202/737-3773. Metro: Union Station.
The Gibson 
If the word “mixologist” is in your vocabulary, you’ll like The Gibson, where expert drink-makers will concoct a libation just for you, based on your taste preferences. You can throw anything at them: smoky and tequila or citrusy and sweet, or cinnamon and scotchy, and presto! A cocktail answering to those very whims is placed before you. It’s clear that they are having fun, and so will you. You’ll need to know that the speakeasy is small, dark, and requires a reservation for entry. On busy nights, you’re only allowed 2 hours here, but that ought to do it. 2009 14th St. NW (at U St.). www.thegibsondc.com. 202/232-2156. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th St. exit).
Hill Country Barbecue Everybody knows to go to this Penn Quarter restaurant for awesome barbecue, strong drinks, and, downstairs, live music nearly nightly. The music tends toward outlaw country and honkytonk. But one of the most popular acts in town is one that patrons themselves deliver here every Wednesday night (usually after tossing back a couple of tequilas). The HariKaraoke Band provides live backup as a singer takes the microphone and “rocks ’n twangs” her heart out. 410 7th St. NW (at D St.). www.hillcountrywdc.com. 202/556-2050. Metro: Gallery Place/Chinatown (7th and F sts. exit) or Archives–Navy Memorial.
Lucky Bar You looking for a good old-fashioned bar with booths, couches, a pool table, a jukebox, and cheap beer? Lucky Bar’s the place. It’s also Soccer Central, with TV screens broadcasting soccer matches from around the globe. Monday through Wednesday and Friday, Lucky Bar’s happy hour runs from 3pm to 8pm. And there are nightly specials, like 50¢ tacos on Monday nights and half-price burgers on Wednesdays. 1221 Connecticut Ave. NW (at N St.). www.luckybardc.com. 202/331-3733. Metro: Dupont Circle (South/19th St. exit) or Farragut North (L St. exit).
Cheap Eats: happy hours to Write Home About
Good-value promotions are often available at area bars and nightclubs, like Lucky Bar’s half-price burgers every Wednesday night and 50¢ tacos on Mondays. A step above these are certain restaurants around town that set out tasty bites during happy hour, either free or for an astonishingly low price. Here are several you might like:
In the bar and lounge of Ceiba, 701 14th St. NW, at the corner of G Street NW (www.ceibarestaurant.com; 202/393-3983), not far from the White House, signature cocktails like margaritas and mojitos are $5 each, Monday to Saturday from 3 to 6pm and again from 9:30pm (Fri–Sat from 10pm) to close. Bar-food items that range from a $9 pork pupusa to a $12 fish taco are offered at $6 each.
In Georgetown, Morton’s Steakhouse, 3251 Prospect St. NW, just off Wisconsin Ave. NW (www.mortons.com/georgetown; 202/342-6258), serves up “Power Hours” bar bites in its bar, Sunday to Thursday 5pm to closing. Drinks are specially priced—$5.50 for beer, $7 for wine, and $8 for certain cocktails—and the bar-bites menu features a variety: cheeseburger trio, four petite filet mignon sandwiches, blue cheese french fries, and so on, each priced at $6 or $7 per plate.
On Capitol Hill, Johnny’s Half Shell, 400 N. Capitol St. NW (www.johnnyshalfshell.net; 202/737-0400), pulls in young Hill staffers Monday through Friday 4:30 to 7:30pm, not for its deals on drinks—$5.50 drafts, $7 to $9 cocktails—but for its delicious bites of miniburgers, shrimp and grits, and the like, priced from $3 to $14.
Finally, in the Penn Quarter’s Oyamel, at 401 7th St. NW (www.oyamel.com; 202/628-1005), has happy-hour specials 4 to 6pm Sunday through Friday featuring $5 margaritas, Dos Equis, or the Mexican ponche (tequila, white wine, Cointreau, agave nectar, and fresh fruit), and, for another $4, two of Oyamel’s superb tacos.
Marvin Downstairs is a Belgian bistro, upstairs is the bar, which includes a lounge, rooftop beer garden, and DJ space. Washington’s 20-somethings come here to dance, and it’s always crowded after 10pm. 2007 14th St. NW (at U St.). www.marvindc.com. 202/797-7171. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th St. exit).
The Observatory Crowning Georgetown’s The Graham hotel is this rooftop bar, which wraps around the entire building, so you’re able to view Georgetown and the city, including the Washington Monument, from various angles. The fact that the bar is open not just to hotel guests but to Washington’s rowdy drinking crowd means you must reserve a spot, and you must pass the bar’s “Georgetown chic” dress code inspection (though we’re not sure what that means). It’s a comfortable place to lounge, too, with pretty teal-colored cushions and a partially protected bar area. You’re here to drink only; no food is served. At The Graham Hotel, 1075 Thomas Jefferson St. NW (just below M St.). www.thegrahamgeorgetown.com. 202/337-0900. Metro: Foggy Bottom, with a 20-minute walk.
Not everyone in Washington, D.C., goes out at night to imbibe at bars. Some imbibe at bookstores.
Bookstore nightlife? Oh yes, and only in the capital, which a 2014 Central Connecticut State University Study reported as being the most literate city in the country, based on number of bookstores and other factors. So we like to hang out at bookstores; it’s only natural. Only, it isn’t completely about the books these days. Politics and Prose (5015 Connecticut Ave. NW; www.politics-prose.com; 202/364-1919) serves beer and wine at book signings and hosts trivia nights. Kramerbooks & Afterwords Cafe (1517 Connecticut Ave. NW; www.kramers.com; 202/387-1400), in addition to its bookshop, has a restaurant and bar, stages concerts Wednesday through Saturday nights, stays open all weekend, and is famous for launching romances. Salon/bookstore/restaurant Busboys and Poets (2021 14th St. NW; www.busboysandpoets.com; 202/387-7638) has it all going on; spoken word performances and poetry slams, lounge lingering, and political debates. Busboys has other locations at 1025 5th St. NW ( 202/789-2227), and in Arlington, Virginia (4251 Campbell Ave.; 703/379-9756). Even traditional stores, like Barnes and Noble (555 12th St. NW; www.bn.com; 202/347-0176) and Books-A-Million (11 Dupont Circle; www.booksamillion.com; 202/319-1374), host nighttime events. So do what the reading locals do while you’re here, and stop by one of D.C.’s bookstores of an evening. Hey, and while you’re at it: Buy a book!
Quill A pianist plays Tuesday through Saturday starting at 9pm, perfect accompaniment to that Kentucky Salty Dog cocktail you’re sipping and plate of charcuterie you’re nibbling, at this chicest of lounges inside the city’s chicest hotel. In the Jefferson Hotel, 1200 16th St. NW (at M St.). www.jeffersondc.com. 202/448-2300. Metro: Dupont Circle (19th St./South exit) or Farragut North (L St. exit).
Tune Inn Open since 1955, this Capitol Hill is a veritable institution. So when a serious fire engulfed the place in 2011, the community was devastated. Five months later, the Tune Inn reopened, and now it’s business as usual. The divey Tune Inn is open from early morning ’til late at night serving policeman, Hill staffers and their bosses, and folks from the neighborhood. Sometimes they eat here, too: burgers, fries, and crabcakes. 3311⁄2 Pennsylvania Ave. SE (at 4th St.). 202/543-2725. Metro: Capitol South.
The Club & Music Scene
Live Music
If you’re looking for a tuneful night on the town, Washington offers everything from hip jazz clubs to DJ-driven dance halls—both places where you sit back and listen and places where you can get up and rock out. Here are some of the best live-music venues.
Jazz & Blues
If you’re a jazz fan and are planning a trip to D.C. in early to mid-June, check out www.dcjazzfest.org for exact dates of the fabulous, week-long DC Jazz Festival, which showcases the talents of at least 100 musicians in various venues around town, including free blowout concerts on the National Mall. And if you’re a jazz or blues fan and you’re coming to town at some other time of the year, check out the following venues.
The Birchmere Music Hall and Bandstand This place started out 40 years or so ago showcasing bluegrass and country acts primarily. Take a look at the calendar now and you’ll see the range stretches from Maysa & Her Jazz Funk Soul Symphony to John Hiatt. Located in Alexandria, 6 miles and a $12 cab fare from downtown D.C., the Birchmere is well worth the trip. The hall seats 500 and serves food. Purchase tickets at the box office or online from www.ticketmaster.com. 3701 Mt. Vernon Ave. (off S. Glebe Rd.), Alexandria, VA. www.birchmere.com. 703/549-7500. Tickets $17–$60. Take a taxi or drive.
Blues Alley An inconspicuous alley off of busy Wisconsin Avenue in Georgetown delivers you to the door of Blues Alley and another world entirely. Jazz greats like Wynton Marsalis and Ahmad Jamal and lesser-known artists play here nightly, usually two sets a night, at 8 and 10pm, with the occasional midnight show thrown in on weekends. Blues Alley is a tiny joint filled with small, candlelit tables, so reservations are a must for the first-come-first-served seating. The supper club has been around since 1965 and looks it, but that’s part of its charm. Its Creole menu features dishes named after stars (try Dizzy Gillespie’s Jambalaya). 1073 Wisconsin Ave. NW (in an alley below M St.). www.bluesalley.com. 202/337-4141. Tickets $16–$75 (most $20–$40), plus a $12-per-person food or drink minimum, plus $4.50 per-person ticket surcharge. Metro: Foggy Bottom, then walk or take the D.C. Circulator.
Bohemian Caverns Despite increasing competition from nearby Howard Theatre (see below) and other venues, the Caverns remains a player, hosting both its own orchestra and international jazz artists like Federico Peña. Decades ago, the likes of Duke Ellington and Billie Holiday performed here. The supper club usually presents two performances a night, 5 to 7 nights a week. 2001 11th St. NW (at U St.). www.bohemiancaverns.com. 202/299-0800. Cover $7–$45. Metro: U St./Cardozo (U and 13th sts. exit).
Gypsy Sally’s D.C.’s newest live music venue features bluegrass and “Americana” acts. Performances take place in the Music Room, which holds 300 people, and follow a Wednesday through Saturday schedule. Most shows offer a mix of reserved seating and general admission standing. The club incudes the Vinyl Lounge bar and a private event space; food and full bar are offered throughout. Gypsy Sally’s is located in Georgetown, right down by the waterfront, underneath the Whitehurst Freeway. 3401 K St. NW (at 34th St.). www.gypsysallys.com. 202/333-7700. Most tickets $10-$15. Metro: Foggy Bottom, then walk or take the D.C. Circulator.
Howard Theatre A $29-million renovation of this historic arts landmark theater, built in 1910, has helped restore not just the building but also a piece of history. The Howard Theatre of old was the Black Broadway showcase for musicians like Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald, and later hosted performances by Marvin Gaye and the Supremes. The theater reopened in April 2012, with a lineup of stars from the Roots to Mos Def. With its 1,200 seats arranged at tables, the venue is both supper club and concert venue. Cuisine is American with a soul influence, naturally, and food and drink are served throughout the show. A gospel brunch takes place every Sunday. 620 T St. NW (at 7th St.). www.thehowardtheatre.com or www.howardtheatre.org. 202/588-5595. Tickets $15–$95 (most $25–$55). Metro: Shaw/Howard University (7th and S sts. exit.)
The Hamilton Located on the subterranean level of a large restaurant is this live music venue, with blues, rock, jazz, R&B, and folk performances staged nightly. You sit at communal tables and dine from the upstairs menus. Located in the heart of the Penn Quarter, the Hamilton debuted December 2011, and everybody’s still talking about it. 600 14th St. (at F St.). www.thehamiltondc.com. 202/787-1000. Live music acts $15–$50; most main courses under $20. Metro: Metro Center (13th St. exit).
HR-57 Amid the Atlas District’s of-the-moment hipster bars, restaurants, and alternative music clubs, HR-57 stands out for being the sole jazz club. Its name derives from the 1987 House Resolution that designated jazz “a rare and valuable national American treasure.” The club is also the Center for the Preservation of Jazz and Blues. Jam sessions take place Wednesday and Thursday evenings, seasoned artists perform on weekends. 816 H St. NE (at 9th St.). www.hr57.org. 202/253-0044. Cover $8 Wed–Thurs; $15 Fri–Sat. Drive, take a taxi, or hop the streetcar from Union Station.
Madam’s Organ Restaurant and Bar Everyone stops by the legendary Madam’s at some point or another. There’s a lot going on throughout its eclectically decorated three levels and it’s all fun: live music nightly on the first floor, from funk/jazz/blues on Sunday and Monday to regional blues bands on weekends; the second floor Big Daddy’s Love Lounge & Pick-Up Joint (it is what it is); and the year-round rooftop deck, for mingling, playing darts, and taking in the fine view. 2461 18th St. NW (at Columbia Rd.). www.madamsorgan.com. 202/667-5370. Cover $3–$7. Metro: U St./Cardozo or Woodley Park–Zoo, then catch the D.C. Circulator bus.
Rock, Hip Hop & DJs
Below are primarily live-music clubs but also a sprinkling of nightclubs known for their DJs and dance floors.
9:30 Club The 9:30 rules over the live music scene. It’s a 1,200-person capacity concert hall with excellent sightlines, state-of-the-art sound system, four bars, and of course most important, a nightly concert schedule that features every possible star, rising or arrived, in today’s varied rock world, from Passenger to Adele. The 9:30 Club is always winning awards, the latest being Third Place in Rolling Stone Magazine’s 2013 America’s Best Music Venues listing. 815 V St. NW (at 9th St.). www.930.com. 202/265-0930. Metro: U St./Cardozo (10th St. exit).
Black Cat This club is D.C.’s flagship venue for alternative music. When it opened on 14th Street in 1993, the neighborhood was a red-light district and D.C. was not a major player when it came to a vibrant live-music scene. So hats off to the Black Cat, who played a part in the changes that have happened since. Local, national, and international groups play here, everyone from The Arcade Fire to Black Lips. The Black Cat has two stages: its main concert hall, which holds more than 600 people, and Backstage, the place for soloists, smaller bands, DJs, film screenings, and poetry readings. The Red Room Bar features pinball machines, a pool table, and a jukebox. Concerts are nightly, sometimes twice in a single night, on different stages. 1811 14th St. NW (btw. S and T sts.). www.blackcatdc.com. 202/667-4490. Cover $5–$25 for concerts; no cover in the Red Room Bar. Metro: U St./Cardozo (13th and U sts. exit).
Eighteenth Street Lounge Ever the hotspot, ESL is the place to go for dressing sexy and dancing to live music and DJ-spun tunes, a range of acid jazz, hip hop, reggae, Latin jazz, soul, and party sounds. The setting is somewhat surprising: a restored, century-old mansion, once the home of Teddy Roosevelt, with fireplaces, high ceilings, and an outside deck. It’s open Tuesday through Friday from 5:30pm, Saturday and Sunday from 9:30pm. 1212 18th St. NW (at Jefferson Place and Connecticut Ave.). www.eighteenthstreetlounge.com. 202/466-3922. No cover Tues–Thurs and Sun; cover $5–$15 after 10pm Wed and Fri–Sat. Metro: Dupont Circle (South/19th St. exit) or Farragut North (L St. exit).
Rock & Roll Hotel Located in the Atlas District, this club features a second-floor pool hall, 400-person concert hall, a separate, comfy bar for hanging out, and year-round rooftop deck and bar. Nightly acts range from local garage bands to national groups on tour. FYI: Don’t expect to stay overnight; despite its name, the hotel is just a club. 1353 H St. NE (at 14th St.). www.rockandrollhoteldc.com. 202/388-7625. Cover $8–$15. Drive here or take a taxi.
Comedy Clubs
In addition to these two comedy venues, the Warner Theatre (see “Headliner Concert Venues,” p. 173) and Harmon Hall at the Shakespeare Theatre (see p. 172) also occasionally feature big-name comedians or troupes.
The Capitol Steps How to Succeed in Congress without Really Lying is the name of the latest album released by this musical political satire troupe, following fast on the heels of Fiscal Shades of Gray—just three out of the more than 30 albums the troupe has produced since it debuted in 1981. But really, it’s best to see them perform their songs and skits in person, which you can do nearly every weekend at the Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center. The performers are former congressional staffers, and therefore well equipped to satirize politicians and government. In the Ronald Reagan Building, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at 13th St.). www.capsteps.com. 202/312-1555. Tickets $41. Metro: Federal Triangle.
The Improv The Improv features headliners on the national comedy-club circuit as well as comic plays and one-person shows. Shows are about 11⁄2 hours long and include three comics (an emcee, a feature act, and a headliner). Showtimes are 8pm Tuesday through Sunday, with a second show at 10:30pm on Friday and Saturday. You must be 18 to enter. 1140 Connecticut Ave. NW (btw. L and M sts.). www.dcimprov.com. 202/296-7008. Tickets $15–$35, plus a 2-item minimum per person. Metro: Farragut North (L St. exit).
The Gay & Lesbian Scene
Dupont Circle is the gay and lesbian hub of Washington, D.C., with at least 10 gay or lesbian bars within easy walking distance of one another. Here are two from that neighborhood, plus another with two locations, the original on Capitol Hill and the second—you guessed it—in Dupont Circle.
Cobalt This is “D.C’s premier gay bar and nightspot.” So says Cobalt’s owners, but so does everyone else, too. Cobalt is actually the name of the club’s third-floor dance space, the first floor holding the club’s Level One restaurant and the second floor its 30 Degrees lounge. The clubs hosts themed parties, like karaoke on Wednesdays, and annual events, such as the wildly popular Bare White Party ladies night. 1639 R St. NW (at 17th St.). www.cobaltdc.com. 202/232-4416. Cover $6–$10, usually Fri–Sat only. Metro: Dupont Circle (Q St. exit).
J.R.’s Bar and Grill This friendly place is always packed, whether it’s during the nightly happy hour or Thursday night at midnight when patrons get free shots. The all-male Dupont Circle club attracts an attractive crowd, here to play pool, participate in sing-alongs, or simply hang out and drink. 1519 17th St. NW (btw. P and Q sts.). www.facebook.com/JRsBarDC. 202/328-0090. Metro: Dupont Circle (Q St. exit).
The Best of D.C.’s International Scene
Washington is home to more than 180 embassies and international culture centers, which greatly contribute to the city’s cosmopolitan flavor. There are a number of ways to soak up this international scene, starting with a detailed walking tour of Embassy Row, in chapter 10 of this book. The tour takes you past the embassies, but not inside them, because few embassies are open to the public. If you’re in D.C. in May, however, you may have the opportunity to tour embassies that participate in one of two programs, the Around the World Embassy Tour, held on the first Saturday in May, and the European Union Open House, held on the second Saturday in May (go to www.culturaltourismdc.org and click on “Passport DC” for more information.).
The helpful website www.embassy.org provides a list of all the embassies with links to their websites. If you explore these individual websites, you’ll find that lots of embassies host events that are open to the public—sometimes for free, sometimes at minimal cost. In my opinion, the French Embassy’s Maison Française (www.ambafrance-us.org) and the Swedish Embassy’s House of Sweden (www.houseofsweden.com) offer the most interesting events. A highlight is Nordic Jazz Week, cosponsored by the embassies of Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Finland, and Iceland every June, with the best performances staged on the roof of the House of Sweden building on the Georgetown waterfront overlooking the Potomac River. The cost is usually $35 per person per concert; the experience is priceless.
Finally, you can buy tickets for Embassy Series (www.embassyseries.com; 202/625-2361) program events. These are world-class, mostly classical-music performances hosted by individual embassies, held at the embassy or at the ambassador’s residence. Tickets are expensive for the intimate experience. For instance, on June 20, 2014, the South African ambassador hosted a tribute to Nelson Mandela at his residence, serving South African food, with performances by South African musicians. It was $150 per ticket, but totally worth it!
Phase 1 Open since 1970, Phase 1 is the oldest continuously operating lesbian bar in the country. Part of its secret must be the no-pressure vibe here. During the week, you might see a mix of persuasions in this neighborly joint; come the weekends, the place is packed with women. Phase 1 now has Phase 1 at Dupont (“the East Coast’s largest lesbian bar”), at 1415 22nd St. NW (at P St.). 525 8th St. SE (at G St.). www.phase1dc.com. 202/544-6831. Metro: Eastern Market.
Spectator Sports
Washington, D.C. has professional football, basketball, baseball, ice hockey, and soccer teams, and of those five, it’s the Capitals, the ice hockey team, whose fans are the most passionate. And visible: In season you’ll see the red-jersey’d devotees swarming the downtown before and after the match at the Verizon Center. Tickets to the Caps games are attainable but not cheap. It’s the tickets to the Redskins football matches that remain most elusive, thanks to a loyal subscription base.
Marine Corps Marathon Thirty thousand runners compete in this 26.2-mile race (the third largest marathon in the United States), which winds past major memorials. The race takes place the last Sunday in October; 2015 marks its 40th year. www.marinemarathon.com. 800/786-8762.
Citi Open (formerly know as the Legg Mason Tennis Classic This U.S. Open series event attracts more than 72,000 people to watch tennis pros compete for big bucks. The classic benefits the Washington Tennis and Education Foundation. The tournament takes place for about 9 days, from late July into early August, at the Fitzgerald Tennis Center in Rock Creek Park. www.citiopentennis.com. 202/721-9500.
General Spectator Sports
Baseball Washington, D.C.’s Major League Baseball team, the Nationals, play at the finely designed Nationals Ballpark (www.nationals.com; 202/675-6287) located in southeast Washington. The 41,000-seat stadium is sparking development in this old neighborhood, which now goes by the name “Capitol Riverfront.”
Basketball The 20,600-seat Verizon Center, 601 F St. NW, where it meets 7th Street (www.verizoncenter.com; 202/628-3200) in the center of downtown, is Washington’s premier indoor sports arena, where the Wizards (NBA), the Mystics (WNBA), and the Georgetown University Hoyas basketball teams play.
Football The Redskins National Football League team plays at the 85,000-seat stadium FedEx Field, outside of Washington, in Landover, Maryland. Obtaining tickets is difficult thanks to season ticket holders, but if you want to try, visit www.redskins.com/fedexfield.
Ice Hockey The Capitals of the National Hockey League are beloved in this city. The team rink is inside the 20,600-seat Verizon Center, 601 F St. NW (www.verizoncenter.com; 202/628-3200), in the center of downtown.
Soccer D.C.’s men’s soccer team, D.C. United (www.dcunited.com), has been around since 1994 but continues to play its matches at the creaky 55,000-seat Robert F. Kennedy Memorial Stadium, 2400 E. Capitol St. SE ( 202/547-9077).
Tennis World Team Tennis franchise team, the Washington Kastles (www.washingtonkastles.com), plays at the beautiful, 2,600-seat, waterfront Kastles Stadium at the Wharf, within view of the Washington Monument, Jefferson Memorial, and the Potomac River. WTT is a co-ed professional tennis league; the Kastles team includes Martina Hingus and Leander Paes. Kastles Stadium at the Wharf, 800 Water St. SW ( 202/483-6647).