A Few Notes on Stockpiling Instant-Gift Stash Supplies
You’ll always be ready to make a quick homemade present if you keep some basic supplies on hand.
• Cut fabric carefully when you make projects, and you’ll soon have a stash of lovely scraps. In addition, build up a stock of neutral fabrics like natural canvas, linen, and muslin, and be on the lookout for outgrown or no-longer-loved items with great prints, textures, or graphics.
• Buy fine ribbon when it goes on sale. You will use it sooner or later, whether for embellishing or wrapping.
• Stock up on notions that will dress up a last-minute gift—brightly colored thread, eye-catching buttons, snap closures, different types of elastic, Velcro, and silk cord.
• Buy some good notepaper and save shirt or cereal-box cardboard so you can always add a sewn card or gift tag (you’ll find those projects in the previous chapter).
Okay, we’ll admit it. We don’t always plan ahead
when it comes to gifts. Even when we have time to run out to the mall, we usually decide to take the cheaper, faster, and more meaningful route by making something at home. In the 20 or 30 minutes it takes to stop off and pick up flowers or a fancy bath potion on the way to your friend’s birthday dinner, you could stitch up one of the projects in this chapter (there’s quite a few superfast projects in the previous chapters too). Plus, don’t you just adore thwarting consumerism from time to time? And isn’t it nice to know that the one-of-a-kind, love-infused doodad we sewed in minutes will be treasured forever, long after the last of that bath potion would have swirled down the drain?
P.S. This chapter title includes the phrase ″Instant Gratification.″ That’s because it’s perfectly fine to sit right down and stitch up a quick gift just to gratify yourself!
You love your sleeveless dresses, but weather and air-conditioning often call for a cover-up. Pick up some pretty yardage to match your favorite frock and stitch one up in no time. Just wrap it around you or add a snazzy brooch to pin it gracefully across your chest.
Cut the ribbon into two 18″ lengths. Pin each length of ribbon on the right side of the fabric, ¾″ in from the short (selvage) edges. Stitch around all the edges of the ribbon with a narrow zigzag.
With the embroidery thread, hand-sew a line of running stitches parallel to each short end, between the ribbon and the edge.
what you’ll need
• ½ yard of 66″-wide rayon or bamboo jersey*
• 1 spool of thread to match ribbon
• 1 yard of velvet ribbon
• Embroidery floss and embroidery needle
*Yardage is for a shawl that measures 18″ × 66″.
Debra inherited a box of fine vintage handkerchiefs from her grandmother. They were made of Madeira and Irish linen, embroidered with monograms (a curly S for Sylvia) and featuring all kinds of gorgeously stitched edges. If you have a similar treasure trove (or spot one in a flea market), here’s one way to put old hankies to a new use: holding packets of the paper version that ultimately supplanted them.
Choose the prettiest part of the hankie and cut out a piece that measures 6″ × 10″.
Press each short edge 1½″ to the wrong side. Turn the fabric right side up. Fold the short edges so they overlap at the center by ¼″ (this will be the top opening).
Press the side edges ½″ toward the back (the side opposite the overlapped flaps). Straight stitch the side folds in place with a ¼″ seam. Leave the opening unstitched for inserting the tissue pack and removing tissues.
what you’ll need
• Vintage handkerchief
• 1 spool of coordinating or contrasting thread
Once you learn to draw with your sewing machine, your desire to pretty up everything can become a bit overwhelming. Take the wire hanger. If we had a guest room, a dozen of these would hang in each closet to greet our guests.
Press the muslin, and fold it. Position the bottom edge of the hanger ½″ from the fold. Draw a line all around the hanger (skipping over the hook portion), allowing for ½″ seam allowance on all sides. Cut along the marked lines and along the fold to make two separate panels. Then, in order for the panels to be identical on each side of the hanging hook, fold them in half, bringing the points together and trimming them if necessary to even out the markings (wire hangers can be less than symmetrical).
Use a vanishing ink marker to draw a design at least 2″ from the top. We freehand sketched a pinecone, but you could also embellish with lines, abstract shapes, or add a simple appliqué. Using a straight stitch and the Drawing with Thread or Doodling with Thread technique (see page 134), stitch over the guidelines.
With the right sides together, straight stitch a ½″ seam on both sides from the neck to the bottom edge. Turn it right side out and insert the hanger.
what you’ll need
• Wire coat hanger
• ½ yard of muslin fabric
• 1 spool of contrasting thread
what you’ll need
• Onesie
• Scrap jersey
• 1 spool of contrasting thread
Four lines and a circle are all it takes to whip up this look for your favorite cool baby. This project is almost embarrassingly easy, but the tiny tot won’t know that! Birds, trucks, monograms, or just about any other shape, topstitched with contrasting lines, can be substituted for our simple circle.
On the scrap jersey, draw a circle or any desired shape and cut it out with sharp scissors.
Pin the appliqué on the onesie in the desired location. Taking care to only stitch through the front layer of the onesie, and starting and finishing about ½″ outside the appliqué, straight stretch stitch a line across the appliqué. Repeat, stitching three more lines to create a starburst pattern.
Stitching tip: When the stitching reaches the edges of the appliqué, use your fingers to gently apply tension to the jersey on either side of the needle to keep the fabric flowing smoothly.
Cutting tip: To cut a nice even circle, fold a square of fabric in quarters, and then cut a quarter-circle. Unfold and trim the curves as needed.
Whip up a few of these charming hair accessories to please a flower child of any age. We used solid fabric scraps, but you can experiment with a mix of prints for a cute twist.
Trace the flower templates onto the wrong side of different color fabrics and cut them out. Layer the flower shapes right side up with the smallest on top.
Use the free-motion drawing technique (see page 134) to straight stitch a circular flower center in the middle of the stacked fabrics. Then stitch narrow petal shapes. Move at your own pace and leave the needle in the fabric when you readjust your hands so the fabric doesn’t shift (our foot pressure was 0 and stitch length was 1).
Zigzag with increased presser-foot pressure (our pressure was 2, stitch width was 3, and stitch length was 1) around the perimeter of the larger flower, turning the fabric as you stitch.
With the tapestry needle and embroidery thread, make a stitch through the center of the flower, beginning and ending on the wrong side. Knot the thread around the elastic. Take one or two additional stitches, turning the flower to create an X or starburst on the right side, and firmly securing the elastic by stitching over it with each stitch. Triple knot the thread and trim.
what you’ll need
• Colorful fabric scraps (we used canvas, but any home-decor or quilting-weight fabric will do)
• Spools of contrasting thread
• Hair elastic
• Embroidery thread
• Tapestry needle
• Large and small flower templates (page 309)
what you’ll need
• ¼ yard of 54″-wide natural canvas*
• 1 spool each of turquoise and red thread
• Black all-purpose or embroidery thread and embroidery hand needle (optional)
*Makes up to 10 sheets
Stitch a love note on one of these sheets, and it will be saved for posterity. Or make a set for a gift; it’s the perfect stationery for anyone who enjoys playing with needles and thread. One young friend used them for secret notes with a vanishing-ink fabric pen, so she could reuse the sheets again and again. Clever!
Fold the fabric in half with the short edges aligned so you’ll be cutting two sheets at one time. Measure and mark the following measurements as many times as desired:
—sheet: 7″ × 5″
On each fabric sheet, mark the following guidelines: a (horizontal) top line 1½″ down from the top edge and a (vertical) margin line 1″ in from the left edge.
With the blue thread and a straight stretch stitch, sew the top line. Align the right edge of the presser foot with the sewn top line and stitch the next line beneath it. Repeat, aligning the right edge of the foot with each preceding line as you continue to stitch the horizontal lines all the way down the fabric.
With red thread and a straight stretch stitch, sew the margin line.
If you like, stitch black-thread letters with your machine (see tips for writing with thread, page 135), or hand-sew a message with embroidery thread.
Present this little item tucked into a book chosen especially for the recipient, and you’ve got a truly meaningful gift. It’s a thrifty way to use up scraps left over from other leather projects, but you can also purchase inexpensive leather sheets at a craft store.
Measure and mark the following pieces on the wrong side of the leather, then cut them out:
—bookmark: 8″ × 2″
—tassel: 8″ × ¼″
If necessary, mark the location of the square designs as desired with a fine pencil line on the leather. Using one color at a time and a straight stitch, stitch the square outlines (our stitch length was 4). When you’re happy with the number of square outlines in one thread color, change the thread color and continue stitching the square outlines. Vary the sizes and allow the square outlines to overlap.
Cut a small slit at the top of the bookmark, about ¼″ from the edge. Thread the tassel piece through the slit and make a slip-knot.
what you’ll need
• Leather scrap, at least 8″ × 2¼″
• 2 to 4 spools of contrasting thread
Design tip: Add a name or monogram to personalize this little gift even more.
Here’s a lovely way to use up scraps of just about any fabric you like.
We chose a pretty strip of jersey that we upcycled from a screen-printed shirt. With some seed beads sewn on, it looks really special.
Press the edges of both long sides ½″ to the wrong side.
Fold roughly in thirds, so that the finished width of the cuff will be about 1½″.
From the right side, zigzag all around perimeter of the bracelet, very close to the edge.
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, attach two snaps at the opening of the cuff as shown.
With a beading needle, thread, and seed beads, stitch beads to the right side of the cuff as desired.
what you’ll need
• 5″ × 8″ piece of fabric (we used a swatch from a t-shirt, but just about any fabric will do)
• 2 sets of 
″ pearl snaps
• 1 spool of coordinating or contrasting thread
• Seed beads
• Beading needle and thread
what you’ll need
• 1 yard of white linen or Birdseye cotton (44″ wide)*
• ¼ yard of cotton print fabric
• 1 spool of coordinating thread
*Makes four towels. You can also purchase plain guest towels and decorate them.
These updated versions of the lacy numbers your mom got as a wedding present make even the most modest bathroom seem chic. The best part is that they’ll give you an excuse to buy a tiny amount of that out-of-your-price range fabric you’ve been dreaming about. They make a really classy hostess gift too.
Fold the white fabric with the right sides together and the selvages aligned. Measure, mark, and cut the following:
Cut from the white fabric:
—main body (cut 4): 22″ × 14″ (cut across the fabric then parallel to the fold, include selvages)
Cut from the printed fabric:
—top trim (cut 4): 3½″ × 13″
—bottom edge trim (cut 4): 2″ × 13″
Make a ¼″ double-fold hem on both long sides (chapter 1, page 19) of each towel. Stitch the hems with a narrow zigzag.
Press ¼″ to the wrong side around all four edges of each of the top trim pieces. Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle to make them easier to hem.
For each towel, pin the top piece so it folds over and encloses the panel’s top raw edge.
Pin the rest of the trim in place on the front side of the panel (no other edge wraps around to the back side). Narrow zigzag (our stitch width was 2) the folded-over edge of the trim 
″ from the top edge of the towel. Edgestitch the remaining three sides with the same narrow zigzag.
Repeat to sew the top trim to all the main body panels.
Press ¼″ to the wrong side around all four edges of each of the bottom trim pieces. Pin the trim on the main body panel, 1″ from the bottom edge. Edgestitch the trim in place with the same narrow zigzag. Trim the edges and, if desired, leave raw.
what you’ll need
• Half-pint mason jar*
• ¼ yard of linen
• 2 spools of contrasting thread
• Pinking shears
*Any straight-sided glass jar in your recycling bin will work for this project.
For a quick excursion into the fabulous realm of thread sketching, this fast and pretty votive is ideal. Begin by stitching a field of straight lines, then cut loose by layering free-motion circles over the lines. The final result will give your home a warm glow. This also makes the perfect holder for a small posy.
For a half-pint mason jar, measure, mark, and cut out the following piece:
—votive cover: 3″ × 8½″
To use a jar other than a half-pint mason jar, just measure the height of the jar from the bottom to just beneath the lid threads. Next, measure the circumference and add ½″ for seam allowance. Mark and cut the fabric accordingly.
Straight stretch stitch straight lines across the width of the fabric at ¼″ intervals. Leave the edges raw.
Practice the Sketching with Thread technique (page 134) on a scrap of the project fabric. With the contrasting thread and using a straight stretch stitch (set the presser-foot pressure on 1), sketch circles over the lines. Turn the fabric slowly as you stitch.
Pin the short edges with the wrong sides together. Straight stitch two seams, ¼″ and ″ from the edge. Pink the raw edges. Slip the cover over the jar.
Design tip: We love the look of linen’s frayed raw edges on this project, but for a more formal finish, add ½″ to the height measurement. Before step 2, turn, press, and stitch a ¼″ hem along both long edges.
what you’ll need
• 1 yard of 60″-wide canvas (the outdoor kind is best for this project)
• 102″ (2 yards + 30″) of 3½″ jute strapping
• 1 spool of contrasting upholstery thread
• Denim needle
• Large pins (safety pins may work best)
Indoor/outdoor fabric comes in fantastic colors these days, and you only need a yard to make this practical gift. The ruggedly attractive jute strapping can be found at the hardware or fabric store.
With the iron set on low, press both short edges of the canvas 1″ to the wrong side. Zigzag the edges in place. Repeat to hem the long edges, letting the hems overlap at the corners.
Fold the fabric in half so the short edges align, and lightly press the crease. Unfold and lay out the fabric in a single layer with the right side facing up. Measure and mark a dot on the pressed crease 5″ in from each edge.
Start pinning the strapping to the fabric with one end at the pressed crease and the outer edge aligned at the dot, as shown. Pin every 2″, extending the strapping toward the top edge. At the top edge, curve the strapping in a U shape to create the handle (each handle measures 18″). Continue pinning the strapping straight back down to the pressed crease so the outer edge of the strapping aligns with the other dot.
Continue pinning the strapping across the pressed crease onto the opposite side of the fabric in the same way (forming a U-shaped handle on the bottom edge).
The two ends of the strapping should meet at the fold.
Attach the strapping to the fabric by zigzagging along both long edges. Add extra stitched lines for reinforcement across the straps near the top and bottom edges of the canvas panel and at the point where the strap ends meet.
For carrying ease, fold under the edges along the center of the handles and stitch them in place with a straight stretch stitch.
Here’s a sweet slip-on hat for a newly arrived beastie boy or girl. Choose the softest wool jersey or a fine cotton fleece (cotton jersey will work well for a summer baby). Make the matching sweater on page 296, and you’ve got an outfit.
With the wrong side of the fabric up, measure, mark, and cut the following piece:
—hat: 9″ × 14″ (cut longer dimension on straight grain)
Topstich ″ from the short edges of the hat piece with a decorative utility stitch.
With the right side facing up, fold the short edges so they overlap by ¾″ in the center; pin them together.
Straight stitch a scant ¼″ seam along the top edge to sew the hat closed.
Starting at the bottom edge, zigzag the overlapping edges together for 1″. Take care to only stitch the overlapping edges and not through to the other side of the hat.
Starting at the top edge, hand-stitch the overlapping edges together for 1″, as for the bottom edge.
Turn the hat right side out.
what you’ll need
• ¼ yard of wool jersey or cotton fleece
• 1 spool of contrasting thread
• Hand-sewing needle
Get ready for total adorableness when you slip this little number on your favorite new babe. Add a matching Wild Thing Newborn Bonnet (page 294) to up the cute quotient even higher. By the way, adjust the measurements as needed, and this also works as a quick new outfit for a beloved doll or teddy bear.
With the right side of the fabric facing up, measure, mark, and cut the following piece:
—sweater: 15″ × 20″
Fold the fabric in half with the short edges aligned and the right sides together; fold it in half again so the short edges align once more. The fabric should now measure 7½″ × 10″.
Fold the paper circle into quarters. Lay the folded circle over the inner corner of the folded fabric (the corner with no open edges) and trace around it. Cut along the traced line through all the thicknesses of fabric.
what you’ll need
• ½ yard of wool jersey or fine cotton fleece (a sturdy cotton jersey also works for a summer baby)
• Contrasting fabric scrap (we used felted wool)
• 1 spool of contrasting thread
• 4″-diameter paper circle
• Sew-on snap
• Embroidery thread and needle
Design tip: At this point, you’ve completed a pullover, but pullover sweaters can be hard to get on and off a squirmy little one, we suggest creating a cardigan.
Lay out the still folded fabric with the neck opening at the top left. Mark the sleeve depth and hem width measurements as shown, and then freehand draw a swooping curve to connect the sleeve with the bottom edge. Cut along the marked line through all the fabric layers.
Unfold the fabric so the front and back panels are aligned, with the right sides together. Use a knit or stretch stitch to sew the sides and sleeves with ½″ seams.
Mark the center line of the front panel, and cut along the line.
With the embroidery thread and needle, hand-stitch the snap closure in place at the top corner of the neck opening, making sure to sew the pieces very securely so they don’t fall off and become a choking hazard.
Trace or draw a 1½″ × 1″ heart on the contrasting scrap and cut it out. Pin it to the sweater to cover the exposed snap stitching near the neckline. Attach it to the sweater with hand-sewn running stitches around the inside edges.
This tie-on wrist adornment is a last-minute gift any girlfriend would be thrilled to receive. Choose a motif to suit that gal (though if you’re drawing a blank, flowers are always a good bet). We used a scrap of stretch silk, but a lightweight, silky jersey in wool, rayon, or cotton would be nice too. Remember, the design needn’t be perfect; its wabi-sabi is what makes it special.
Fold the fabric with right sides together and short edges aligned. Trace the template and cut along the marked lines.
Zigzag all the edges around the bracelet.
If desired, draw a design on the right side of the fabric (or just freestyle stitch). Turn the bracelet lengthwise to sew, so you have ample fabric to grab. Using the Doodling with Thread or Sketching with Thread technique (see page 134) (our presser-foot pressure was 0), stitch your design.
what you’ll need
• Scrap of solid color stretch silk, 2″ × 14″ (a longer piece if cut on the crossgrain)
• 1 spool of contrasting thread
• Bracelet template (page 304)
Stitching tip: The center of the presser foot should align with the fabric edge, so the stitches truly lie right on the edges.
A showcase for bits of gorgeous fabric, this necklace is fast to make and easy to wear. Whether you make it with one stunning pendant, or string a few on the cord, you end up with an eye-catching, conversation-starting accessory.
Press the fusible web to the wrong side of the canvas as directed by the manufacturer. Peel off the paper backing and place the canvas on top of the print fabric, wrong sides together. Press the pieces to fuse them.
Carefully cut out motifs from the fabric, or trace a jar lid, cookie cutter, or other simple shape onto the fabric and cut out.
Use a small zigzag (our stitch width was 3, stitch length was 1, and presser-foot pressure was 2) to edgestitch around the perimeter of each shape.
To create reinforced holes for the neck cord, mark a dot on both sides of the center of the pendant, just inside the stitched edge. Using the Doodling with Thread technique (see page 134) and a straight stitch (our stitch length was 1; presser-foot pressure was 0), sew at least five circular orbits around the dot, leaving an open center through which the tapestry needle and cord will pass.
Thread the tapestry needle with the cord and thread the pendants on the cord, running the needle through the center of the circular stitching. Make a knot behind each pendant hole if you don’t want the pieces to slide along the cord. Tie the cord with a bow around the wearer’s neck.
what you’ll need
• Scraps of print fabric
• Scraps of canvas or other heavy fabric
• 1 spool of contrasting thread
• Paper-backed fusible web
• Silk or leather cord, length of desired necklace including knot
• Tapestry needle
