1.5 kg (3 lb) chicken joints
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60 g (2 oz) butter
1–2 tablespoons oil
1 onion, finely chopped
pinch dried rosemary
cup flour 2½ cups chicken stock
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup cream
½ cup chopped walnuts
NAM PRIK
This sauce is on the table with most Thai meals. Make a jar and store it in the refrigerator; only a small amount is served at a time, usually in a small dish for dipping. Serve with tiny fresh or crisp fried spring rolls, rice or noodle dishes, or salads.
NAM PRIK
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 golden shallots, chopped
1 stem lemongrass, chopped
6 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon coriander root, chopped
1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste (belacan, blachan or kapi)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
Heat the garlic, shallots, lemongrass, chillies and coriander root in a small heavy pan until they start to smoke. Place in a blender with the shrimp paste, sugar, lime juice, soy and fish sauce. Blend to a smooth paste. Stir in 1–3 tablespoons water to taste and serve in a small bowl.
NAPOLEONS
French pastries each consisting of three layers of thin, crisp puff pastry rectangles, sandwiched with crème pâtissière or whipped cream and topped with white icing, rippled with lines of chocolate.
Napoleons are similar to the French pastries Mille-Feuilles, although the name ‘Napoleons’ is rarely associated with them in any French recipe. Why these pastries were named ‘Napoleons’ and why the distinctive decorative icing was used is obscure. The explanation differs from country to country. Probably it was named after Napolitains, the imposing, and embellished, layered pastries that used to decorate formal dinner tables. This practice has now been abandoned, and although Napolitains are still made, they are usually small and known as Napoleons. Whatever the reason, Napoleons are light, delicious and found in pastry shops in many parts of the world.
NAPOLEONS
½ × 375 g (12 oz) packet frozen puff pastry, thawed, or 1 quantity Puff Pastry
2 cups Crème Pâtissière
1 quantity Glacé Icing
Chocolate decoration
60 g (2 oz) cooking chocolate
45 g (1½ oz) butter
Roll out pastry as thinly as possible to a rectangle about the size of a large baking tray. Place on dampened baking tray, pricking well all over and chill for 15 minutes. Bake in a preheated hot oven (200°C/ 400°F) for 5–10 minutes or until pale golden, then turn pastry over carefully and continue baking for a further 5 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Cut into 3 strips about 8 cm (3 in) wide. Spread one strip of pastry with half the crème pâtissière. Lay a second pastry strip on top and spread with remaining crème. Top with last pastry strip. Press down lightly and spread icing over top.
To make decoration, melt chocolate and butter in a double saucepan over warm water and cool slightly. Pipe in thin rows across the icing at 2.5 cm (1 in) intervals. Before chocolate has set use tines of a fork or back of a sharp knife to draw a line down centre of length of pastry. Draw another line in the opposite direction on each side, thus pulling chocolate into a decorative pattern. When chocolate has set, cut pastry strips crossways into pieces about 5 cm (2 in) wide, using a very sharp knife. Best served on the day they are made. Makes about 8.
NASI GORENG
One of the basic dishes of Indonesia, rather similar to fried rice. A variation is popular in Malaysia also. Meats, vegetables or seafood are cut into smallish chunks and fried in oil and, towards the end of cooking, all the ingredients are stirred together. The dish can vary from region to region but rice is always the major component.Bami goreng is a similar fried dish, but made with cooked noodles instead of cooked rice.
NASI GORENG
3 eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
oil for frying
2 onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
½ teaspoon dried shrimp paste (trasi)
500 g (1 lb) pork or lean beef steak, diced
250 g (8 oz) green prawns, shelled and de-veined
4 cups cold cooked rice
6 spring onions, finely sliced
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
3 tablespoons onion flakes
1 cucumber, finely sliced
Beat eggs with salt and pepper. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and make an omelette with half the eggs. Turn onto a plate without folding. Make another omelette with the remaining eggs. When cool, place omelettes on top of each other, roll up and cut into strips. Set aside for garnish. Put chopped onions, garlic and shrimp paste in blender and blend to a paste (or chop onions very finely, crush garlic and dissolve paste in a little hot water; combine these 3 ingredients). Heat 3 tablespoons oil in frying pan or wok and fry blended ingredients for a few minutes. Add meat and fry, stirring, until cooked. Remove meat and keep warm. Fry prawns, remove and keep warm. Add 2 tablespoons more oil and when hot stir in rice and spring onions, tossing and mixing thoroughly. Sprinkle with soy sauce and mix evenly. Return meat and prawns to pan and combine with rice. Keep hot. Place onion flakes in a wire strainer and lower them into hot oil for a few seconds or until they turn golden-brown. Drain on paper towels. Pile rice mixture on a heated serving platter and garnish with strips of omelette, fried onion flakes and cucumber slices. Serves 6–8.
NOTE: Dried shrimp paste, also known as blachan or trasi, and dried onion flakes, known as bawang goreng, are available from Asian grocery stores.
NASI GORENG (MALAYSIAN)
6 cups cold cooked rice
2 small brown onions, sliced
4 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons raisins
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 fresh red chillies, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
250 g (8 oz) green prawns, shelled and de-veined
2 spring onions, finely sliced
Stir rice to separate grains. Fry one onion gently in oil in wok or frying pan until crisp and golden-brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain and set aside for garnish. Fry raisins in same oil for 2 minutes, stirring, then remove and set aside. Pour egg into pan and make thin omelette. Roll up and slice finely. Reserve for garnish. Blend or pound together chillies, garlic and remaining onion, then fry together gently for 3–4 minutes, adding more oil if necessary. Add prawns and stir-fry until cooked. Stir in rice, increase heat and fry for about 3 minutes. Serve on a large heated platter, garnished with fried onions, raisins, omelette strips and spring onions. Serves 6–8.
NAVARIN
A French lamb or mutton stew made with a proportion of onions, carrots, turnips and sometimes potatoes, or in spring with peas and young new vegetables, when it becomes navarin à la printanière.
This substantial dish is best eaten when reheated; first refrigerate overnight to solidify the fat, then remove the fat next day and finish cooking. The dish should have a rich, full-flavoured gravy, the meat being tender and the vegetables soft without being overcooked.
NAVARIN OF LAMB
1 kg (2 lb) lamb neck chops
salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) dripping
1 tablespoon flour
3 cups warm water or beef stock
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 bouquet garni
30g (1 oz) butter
1 teaspoon sugar
8 small onions, peeled
2 large carrots, thickly sliced
1 turnip, sliced
Trim chops and season with salt and pepper. Brown in melted dripping in a flameproof casserole. Remove half the fat, then sprinkle chops with flour, turning to coat well. Cook gently until golden-brown. Add water or stock, garlic and tomato paste and bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Add bouquet garni, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour. Remove meat, strain gravy into a bowl and return meat to gravy. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Next day, remove solidified fat from the surface and place meat and liquid back in casserole. Heat gently. Melt butter and sugar in a frying pan and fry vegetables quickly until golden. Add vegetables to meat, cover and simmer very gently for 1 hour or until meat and vegetables are tender. Adjust seasoning. Serve with crusty bread or with creamy mashed potatoes seasoned with nutmeg. Serves 4–6.
NAVARIN À LA PRINTANIÈRE
500 g (1 lb) boned shoulder of lamb, trimmed and cubed
500 g (1 lb) boned breast of lamb, trimmed and cubed
60 g (2 oz) dripping
2 cups beef stock
2 tablespoons tomato paste
750 g (1½ lb) new potatoes, scraped
6 baby carrots, scraped
18 whole baby onions, peeled
1 cup shelled fresh peas, cooked
1 cup sliced green beans, cooked
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup finely chopped parsley
Brown meat in melted dripping in a frying pan. Remove and place in a flameproof casserole. Pour off fat from frying pan, then deglaze pan with 1 cup stock. Pour stock into casserole over meat and add remaining stock and tomato paste. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 1 hour. Cool and refrigerate overnight. Next day, remove solidified fat from the surface. Heat meat and liquid gently. Add potatoes, carrots and onions and simmer for about 1 hour or until meat and vegetables are tender. Skim any fat from surface, then fold in peas and beans. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for 5 minutes longer. Serve sprinkled with parsley. Serves 6–8.
NECTARINE
A superb summer stone fruit of the peach family, with a smooth skin, flushed a pinky-red. The flesh is firm and fragrant, and varies from creamy white to quite deep orange. Varieties range from small to large, some with clingstones and some with slipstones, and can be used in most recipes calling for peaches. A nectarine is delicious eaten freshly picked on its own or, perhaps, with a glass of chilled Sauternes.
BAKED NECTARINES
6–8 ripe nectarines, peeled
juice ½ lemon
1½ cups sugar
1 cup water
6–8 cloves
Cover nectarines with cold water and lemon juice to prevent discoloration. Place sugar and water in a saucepan and stir over medium heat until sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil for 5 minutes without stirring. Remove each nectarine from the water, dry and stick with a clove. Arrange in a baking dish and pour syrup over. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 20 minutes or until tender, basting 2–3 times with syrup. Remove from oven, cool then chill. Serve with whipped cream. Serves 3–4.
SUGARED NECTARINES
8 ripe slipstone nectarines
¼ cup caster sugar
juice 1 lemon
Slice nectarines into a glass bowl by making an incision down the natural division of the fruit deep enough to reach stone. Make another incision beside it and slice out section. Continue in this way around fruit to give even slices. Sprinkle sugar over fruit, then lemon juice. Serve immediately. Serves 4–6.
SMETNA WITH NECTARINES
A marvellous combination of smetna (the Russian name for sour cream) and brown sugar makes the difference in this dessert. Equally good when used with peaches.
¾ cup firmly packed brown sugar
1½ cups sour light cream
8 large ripe yellow nectarines, stoned and sliced
toasted flaked almonds to decorate
Combine brown sugar and sour cream. Spoon alternate layers of cream and fruit into a dessert bowl or soufflé dish. Cover and chill for 2 hours. Sprinkle with toasted flaked almonds before serving. Serves 6.
NECTARINES IN WHITE WINE
A simple, yet quite stunning summer dessert. Peaches can be used instead with equally delicious results.
6 large ripe nectarines, stoned and sliced
¼ cup caster sugar
white wine, chilled
Place nectarines in large wine glasses. Sprinkle with sugar, pour over white wine and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Serves 4.
NESSELRODE PUDDING
Originally this pudding was a very rich frozen confection full of candied fruits, chestnuts and liqueurs. It was invented by the chef to a Russian statesman, Count Nesselrode, who had a taste for lavish living. Today, the pudding is less rich and may be served unfrozen, but is still delicious. Set in an attractive bowl, this smooth, light and creamy dessert looks very festive with its decoration of rum-soaked cherries and a scattering of grated chocolate.
NESSELRODE PUDDING
3 egg yolks
¾ cup sugar
2½ cups cream
1 tablespoon powdered gelatine softened in 2 tablespoons cold water
½ cup canned crushed pineapple, drained
½ cup raisins
2 tablespoons glacé cherries, soaked in
2 tablespoons rum
¼ cup finely chopped dark chocolate
glacé cherries soaked in rum and dark chocolate, grated, to decorate
Combine egg yolks with sugar in the top of a double saucepan. Gradually stir in 1½ cups cream, the softened gelatine and crushed pineapple. Stir over simmering water until custard has thickened slightly. Pour into a chilled ice cream tray and freeze until just firm. Spoon mixture into a chilled bowl and beat with an electric or rotary beater until smooth and creamy. Fold in raisins, cherries and chocolate. Whip remaining cream and fold in. Pour into a decorative freezer-proof bowl and return to freezer for several hours or until frozen firm. Remove to refrigerator 30 minutes before serving to soften slightly. Serve decorated with glacé cherries and grated chocolate. Serves 8–10.
NIÇOISE
The word ‘niçoise’ conjures up foods ripened by the warm sun of southern France. Dishes à la niçoise are made from foods of the region around Nice and can be based on fish or vegetables. They are flavoured with garlic and have as their main ingredients tomatoes, black olives and fruity olive oil.
SALADE NIÇOISE
Salade niçoise is a rustic country salad, made with ingredients on hand and in season. Tuna fish can be added, or the lettuce omitted as desired.
1 lettuce, washed and dried
1 × 50 g can anchovy fillets, drained
3 tomatoes, peeled and quartered
3 hard-boiled eggs, quartered
1 cucumber, peeled and sliced
2 sticks celery, sliced
1 white onion, sliced
1 small green or red pepper, cored, seeded and sliced
½ cup black olives
1 tablespoon capers (optional)
Dressing
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (parsley, chives, oregano)
½ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons wine vinegar
2 teaspoons tarragon vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice or to taste
Place lettuce leaves in salad bowl or on a platter. Arrange anchovy fillets, tomatoes, eggs, cucumber, celery and onion slices over lettuce. Garnish with pepper slices, black olives and capers if using.
To make dressing, mix mustard, sugar, salt, pepper, garlic and herbs. Gradually beat in oil and lastly beat in wine and tarragon vinegars. Add lemon juice to taste. Beat again before using. Spoon dressing over salad and serve. Serves 4.
NOCKERL
These Austrian dumplings are usually served in soups, stews and goulashes or as an accompaniment for other dishes. However, Salzburger Nockerl is a wonderfully light, fluffy dessert made from puffs of soufflé that bear little resemblance to the general concept of a dumpling. As the name implies the dish is a specialty of Salzburg but has spread throughout neighbouring Germany. Serve elegantly, with champagne or a chilled Moselle wine.
SALZBURGER NOCKERL
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
½ teaspoon grated lemon rind
1 tablespoon flour
4 egg whites
pinch salt
2 tablespoons caster sugar
icing sugar, sifted
Beat egg yolks lightly and stir in vanilla, lemon rind and flour. In another bowl, beat egg whites with salt until they hold firm peaks. Beat in sugar and continue beating until stiff and glossy. Stir a large spoonful of egg white into egg yolk mixture, then fold quickly and lightly into remaining egg white. Spoon in 4 mounds in a well-buttered 20 × 25 × 5 cm (8 × 10 × 2 in) ovenproof dish; it does not matter if mounds touch each other. Bake in centre of a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for about 10 minutes or until very pale brown on the outside but still soft and moist on the inside. Sprinkle generously with icing sugar and serve immediately with whipped Crème Anglaise. Serves 4.
NOODLES, CHINESE
In China, noodles are the mein in chow mein, and differ from other noodles in that the strands are ‘thrown’ by hand to form the customary long, thin strands or ‘strings’; these vary in diameter from that of Italian spaghetti to that of the finest vermicelli. Many large Chinese restaurants throughout the world are beginning to put on displays of noodle-throwing for their delighted clientele. It is fascinating to see how readily a ball of dough becomes an armful of fine threads in the hands of a true craftsman.
The Chinese have always regarded noodles as a symbol of longevity because of their great length, and therefore they never cut them. However, like all noodles, the Chinese types come in a variety of shapes and sizes, some being small, and often as fine as thread.
Chinese noodles can be served in a sauce of meat or vegetables, in soup, or fried. Chinese fried noodles are given different treatments in different places. Some restaurants (and recipes) call for the noodles to be parboiled, rinsed in cold water, formed into a nest and then fried until crisp; they are then often topped with a savoury dish of meat or vegetables in a sauce. In China, the noodles are boiled, rinsed, then shallow-fried with meat, vegetables and seasonings or served as a complete dish.
Rice stick noodles, or cellophane noodles:
These are also found in Chinese cooking. They are thread-like and clear in colour, and are about the same length as chopsticks. They are found in Chinese food stores and are used more in southern China.
Commercially made noodles: These are sold packaged in fine, medium or wide widths. Some are cut into squares and some fine noodles are shaped into nests. There are also dried soup noodles from Japan, China, Taiwan, Singapore, etc., and packaged noodle dinners. The method for cooking all of these is usually printed on the packet.
To cook: Allow 1 bundle Chinese egg noodles for each person. Soak noodles in hot water for about 10 minutes. The strands will separate and enable the noodles to cook evenly. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and add a spoonful of peanut oil. Drain the soaked noodles and drop them into the boiling water. When water returns to the boil, cook fine noodles for 2–3 minutes, wide noodles for 3–4 minutes. Do not overcook. Like properly cooked pasta, noodles should be tender but still firm to the bite.
At end of cooking time, drain noodles in a large colander, then run cold water through the noodles to rinse off excess starch and to cool them so they don’t continue to cook in their own heat. Drain thoroughly. Use in soups or braised noodle dishes – spread the noodles out on a damp (not wet) tea-towel, spreading them apart with chopsticks so they dry out a little before using as directed in recipe.
Soft-fried Chinese noodles: Cook noodles as described above and spread out to dry. A little peanut oil may be sprinkled over them to prevent them from sticking.
Heat 2 tablespoons each of peanut oil and sesame oil in a wok or frying pan, and when very hot add a handful of noodles. When golden on one side, turn and fry other side. Repeat with remaining noodles, draining on paper towels before serving at once. It may be necessary to add more oil to the pan if a large quantity of noodles is being fried, but make sure the fresh oil is very hot before adding noodles.
Serve them with beef, pork, poultry or vegetable dishes, or combine with stir-fried ingredients for Chow Mein.
Crisp-fried Chinese noodles: These crisp noodles are used mainly as a garnish. Rice vermicelli and cellophane noodles may be fried in deep hot oil straight from the packet. Egg noodles need to be cooked first as for Soft-fried Noodles. Use a larger amount of peanut oil and deep-fry in handfuls until crisp and golden-brown. Drain on paper towels before serving.
NOODLES AND CHICKEN BROTH
This is one of the simplest Chinese noodle dishes to prepare and one which is as excellent as it is substantial. As a quick lunch dish it cannot be surpassed.
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup shredded chicken meat
¼ cup light soy sauce
¼ onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
¼ cup Chinese wine or dry sherry
1–2 cups boiling chicken broth or stock
250 g (8 oz) Chinese egg noodles
pinch salt
Heat oil in a wok or deep frying pan. When very hot, add chicken and stir-fry 3–4 minutes. Add soy sauce, onion, ginger and 1 cup broth or enough to cover noodles completely. When boiling hard, add noodles and salt and cook until done. Serve hot. Serves 4.
NOODLES WITH CHICKEN BROTH
A perfect comfort soup.
125 g (4 oz) Chinese egg noodles, cooked
½ cup shredded cooked chicken meat
2 slices cooked ham, shredded
3 cups chicken broth or stock
½ teaspoon salt
pinch freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons soy sauce
4 spring onions, shredded
Place cooked noodles in heated serving bowl. Arrange chicken and ham on top of noodles. Heat broth, adding salt, pepper and soy sauce. Pour hot broth over noodles, top with spring onions and serve hot. Serves 4.
BRAISED NOODLES WITH CHICKEN
4 bundles wide Chinese egg noodles
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry
4 chicken fillets (skinless, boneless, half-breasts), cubed
½ Chinese cabbage
1 tablespoon cornflour
2 tablespoons cold water
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 cup chicken stock
5 spring onions, chopped
Soak noodles in hot water for 10 minutes, then cook as directed on the packet for 3–4 minutes or until tender but still firm. Do not overcook. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water to stop cooking. Drain. Pour soy sauce and wine or sherry over chicken. Mix and leave to marinate. Cut stalks of Chinese cabbage into bite-size pieces. Mix cornflour with cold water, oyster sauce and salt, and set aside.
Heat oil in a wok or frying pan and gently fry garlic and ginger for a few seconds. Add chicken and stir-fry over high heat for 2 minutes or until colour changes. Add cabbage and fry, stirring, for 1 minute longer. Add stock, bring to the boil, add cornflour mixture and stir until thick. Add well-drained noodles and heat through, tossing to mix evenly. Garnish with spring onions. Serves 4–5.
CHINESE CHICKEN AND NOODLE SALAD
4 half-breasts of chicken
salt
1 bay leaf
1 slice onion
few black peppercorns
375 g (12 oz) Chinese egg noodles
1 tablespoon oil
Sesame Peanut Sauce
3 spring onions, finely sliced, and 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds to garnish
Place chicken breasts in a saucepan, and add salted water to cover, along with bay leaf, onion and peppercorns. Simmer gently for 10 minutes. Cool in water. Cook noodles according to packet directions or as. Drain, and rinse under cold running water. Drain thoroughly and toss lightly with oil to prevent sticking. Drain chicken, remove skin and bones, and slice flesh finely. Place noodles in a large heated serving dish, top with chicken and pour sesame peanut sauce over. Garnish with sliced spring onions and toasted sesame seeds. Toss salad gently and serve. Serves 6–8.
FRAGRANT NOODLES
20 dried shrimp
½ cup peanut oil
3 medium onions, diced
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 teaspoons Chinese wine or dry sherry
2 cups water
500 g (1 lb) Chinese egg noodles
Soak dry shrimp in cold water for 10 minutes, then drain and clean. Heat half of the oil in a frying pan or wok, add onions and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes. Lower heat slightly, add shrimp and cook, stirring, until only residual moisture is left and oil splatters when in contact with moisture. Remove from heat. Heat rest of oil in a small saucepan, add shrimp mixture, soy sauce and wine or sherry and stir-fry for about 1–2 minutes. Add water and simmer for 30 minutes or until water has nearly evaporated. Meanwhile, cook noodles according to packet directions or as. Drain, rinse quickly under cold running water and drain again. Reheat all ingredients together and serve. Serves 4.
NOTE: Dried shrimp can be bought from Chinese groceries.
PRAWN CHOW MEIN
250 g (8 oz) Chinese egg noodles
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1½ cups small, shelled green prawns, de-veined
3 tablespoons soy sauce
½ cup Chinese wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
vinegar to serve
Cook noodles according to packet directions. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Distribute noodles as thinly as possible on a damp (not wet) cloth and place them in a cool, airy place to dry. Place one-third of the oil in a wok or frying pan and heat. Add prawns and fry for about 3 minutes or until over half done. Then add half of the soy sauce, Chinese wine or sherry and sugar. Cook for another 3 minutes, then remove from the pan and keep warm. Put remaining oil into pan and heat. Add noodles, and fry, turning from time to time with a fork or chopsticks, until golden-brown. Add remaining soy sauce, wine or sherry and sugar, the salt and ginger. Cook briskly for a further 2 minutes. Return prawns to pan, cook for another 2 minutes, and serve immediately Some people prefer a dash of vinegar on chow mein and this should be provided at the table as its use is a matter of individual taste. Serves 4.
FRIED NOODLES
250 g (8 oz) Chinese egg noodles
8 tablespoons oil
3 eggs, beaten with ½ teaspoon salt
250 g (8 oz) boneless pork, shredded
2 canned bamboo shoots, shredded
2 cups chopped vegetables or bean sprouts
6 dried mushrooms, soaked in water, drained and shredded
4 spring onions, shredded
1 tablespoon Chinese wine or dry sherry
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon cornflour
2 teaspoons salt
Cook noodles according to packet directions or as. Drain, rinse under cold running water and drain again. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a frying pan, add eggs and fry to a thin omelette. Break omelette into small pieces and remove to a plate. Heat a further 3 tablespoons oil in a pan and fry pork for 3–4 minutes. Add bamboo shoots, vegetables or bean sprouts, mushrooms, spring onions, wine or sherry and soy sauce. Blend stock with cornflour, add to pan and heat, stirring until thickened. Keep hot. Heat remaining oil in a separate frying pan or wok, add noodles and salt and fry for 6 minutes, stirring constantly. Pat into a pancake shape and allow to brown lightly on both sides. Remove noodles to a large heated plate or bowl, pour over pork mixture, top with omelette pieces and serve hot. Serves 4.
CHILLED NOODLES WITH SAUCE
375 g (12 oz) Chinese egg noodles
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup shredded cooked chicken or pork
3 slices cooked ham, shredded
1 cup shredded cucumber
½ cup cooked shelled prawns, de-veined
Sauce
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon red pepper oil, or 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 cups chicken broth or stock
Cook noodles according to packet directions or as. Drain, mix with sesame oil and chill. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan, add eggs and fry into a thin omelette. Arrange shredded omelette, chicken or pork, ham, cucumber and prawns on top of chilled noodles.
To make sauce, grind sesame seeds in a mortar. Add remaining sauce ingredients and mix thoroughly. Serve sauce separately in a bowl. Pour sauce over noodles and shredded ingredients just before eating. Serves 4–6.
NOTE: If you cannot buy red pepper oil, make it by heating 2 tablespoons sesame oil in a small frying pan and frying 2 red chillies until they turn dark. Drain off the oil and discard chillies.
LAMB SHREDS WITH CELLOPHANE NOODLES
375 g (12 oz) lamb chump chops, boned
1 egg white
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
¼ teaspoon red pepper oil or Tabasco sauce
30 g (1 oz) cellophane noodles
Slice lamb into thin, match-like shreds. Mix with egg white, ½ teaspoon salt and the cornflour. Let stand for 5 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons peanut oil in a frying pan or wok and stir-fry lamb for about 2 minutes. Add soy sauce and pepper oil or Tabasco. Mix well and place on a heated platter. Heat remaining peanut oil and deep-fry noodles for 1–2 seconds. Do not burn. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with the remaining salt and place at both ends of the lamb shreds. Serves 4.
NOTE: If you cannot buy red pepper oil, make it by heating 2 tablespoons sesame oil in a small frying pan and frying 2 red chillies until they turn dark. Drain off the oil and discard chillies.
NOODLES, EGG
A paste made from flour and egg yolks, rolled flat and cut into strips. Egg noodles are a favourite in Germany, where they are called Nudeln or Nockerln, and in France, where they are known as nouilles.
Noodles may be cooked and treated in much the same way as spaghetti or other pastas (see Pasta). Each country has its own favourite way.
In Germany noodles are generally boiled, drained and mixed with melted butter or bacon fat. They are seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, paprika, poppy-seeds, finely chopped dill or parsley, crumbled cooked bacon or chopped ham – the seasoning added depends on the food being served with the noodles. Thin noodles are preferred for chicken, veal and soup; wider noodles are the popular choice for stews, generally those flavoured with paprika, like goulash.
To cook: Cook egg noodles in plenty of boiling salted water; keep water boiling rapidly to prevent noodles sticking together. Drain when done.
See also Pasta.
CHICKEN NOODLE CASSEROLE
500 g (1 lb) egg noodles
1.5 kg (3 lb) chicken joints
salt and freshly ground black pepper
60 g (2 oz) butter
1–2 tablespoons oil
1 onion, finely chopped
pinch dried rosemary cup flour
2½ cups chicken stock
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup cream
½ cup chopped walnuts
Cook noodles in plenty of boiling salted water until tender. Drain and put in bottom of large shallow ovenproof serving dish. Sprinkle chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Brown in butter in a frying pan, a few pieces at a time. Place on noodles. Add oil then onion to butter in frying pan and cook gently until soft. Stir in rosemary and flour and cook, stirring, for 1–2 minutes. Stir in stock gradually, then wine. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly. Add cream and cook gently for 5–10 minutes. Add nuts, then spoon sauce over chicken. Cover dish with lid or foil and bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1 hour. Serves 6.
NUT BRITTLE
Nut brittle is a clear, hard toffee well flavoured with nuts, either peanuts, pecans, Brazil nuts or some other combination. It is best made with corn syrup, which is available from specialist grocery stores and some delicatessens.
NUT BRITTLE
1 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
2 cups shelled raw peanuts, pecans or Brazil nuts
1 teaspoon salt
30 g (1 oz) butter
¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
Place water in a large heavy saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from heat and stir in sugar until dissolved. Stir in corn syrup, nuts and salt. Return to medium heat and cook until hard crack stage (146°C/ 295°F), stirring occasionally to keep nuts submerged so they cook thoroughly and toffee syrup does not burn. Remove from heat and stir in butter and bicarbonate of soda. Pour into a well-buttered lamington tin. When cool, crack into pieces and store in an airtight container. Makes about 1 kg (2 lb).
NOTE: To test for hard crack stage without a sugar thermometer, drop ½ teaspoon toffee into cold water. It should make brittle threads that stay brittle when removed from water.
NUT BUTTER
This can be smooth or chunky and is made by pounding or grinding a variety of blanched and roasted nuts to a butter-like spread. Probably the best known nut butter is Peanut Butter, but others are made from almonds, cashews, pecans, walnuts, hazelnuts and pine nuts. Nut butters will keep for months if stored in a cool, dry place.
NUT BUTTER
2 cups toasted, unsalted almonds, pecans, walnuts, cashews or other nuts
3–6 tablespoons safflower or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
Put nuts, half the oil and the salt in a blender or food processor. Purée to desired consistency, adding more oil if necessary. Store in sealed, airtight jars. Makes about 1 cup.
NUTMEG
The large nutmeg tree is native to the Indonesian islands and the Philippines, and also grows in the West Indies. The ripe plum-like fruit dries and then splits open. The nutmeg seed is encased in a bright red outer covering, which, when dried in the sun, is known as mace (see Mace).The seed is slowly dried in the tropical sun or over slow-burning charcoal fires. Used as a flavouring in many cuisines, they will keep well in an airtight container, sometimes for years.
Nutmeg is at its best when grated fresh into the dish in which it is required as, once grated, it rapidly loses its best flavour.
Beautifully aromatic nutmeg is equally at home in sweet and savoury dishes. The English devotees of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries often travelled with their own personal nutmeg grater, such was their love of this spice. In English cooking today, nutmeg is mainly used in cakes and sweet dishes, but it is also important in many savoury and meat dishes.
Use it in sausages, terrines, pâtés and potted meats. It is also good in egg dishes, or with mashed potatoes, and it is particularly tasty with spinach. A spinach ravioli filling nearly always contains nutmeg, as does the famous Bolognese Sauce. Nutmeg is excellent in white or cheese sauce, and a blade of mace is often infused in the milk for these sauces; in fact, both go well in any cheese dish.
Nutmeg is a frequent ingredient in many Indian spiced foods, and in Garam Masala – that fragrant spice blend often added at the end of cooking. Nutmeg is also a common flavouring in Middle Eastern cookery, and is good with lamb.
For desserts, nutmeg is a natural partner of rice and other milk puddings, apple pies and spiced fruits. It is often sprinkled over warm milk, punches or drinks to be taken at night, and it is claimed that nutmeg has a slightly soporific effect.
In Indonesia a fresh ripe nutmeg seed is often prepared as a sweetmeat preserve, as is fresh mace. These are delicious and well worth looking for in spice shops – certainly buy some if you are lucky enough to visit Bali or elsewhere in Indonesia.
Buy good-quality, large nutmegs whole, store in a small jar, then grate freshly each time nutmeg is needed. Small tin nutmeg graters are inexpensive and available from most kitchen shops; more elaborate mills, rather like pepper mills, are also available.
SPINACH FLORENTINE
1 large bunch spinach, coarsely shredded
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
salt
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
¼ cup cream
coarsely grated Parmesan cheese
melted butter
Place spinach in large saucepan, cover and cook for 5 minutes, tossing occasionally. Drain well, and press out all excess moisture. Heat butter in frying pan, add garlic, salt, nutmeg and cream and stir. Add spinach and toss lightly to heat through. Place in a flameproof serving dish and sprinkle with cheese and melted butter. Brown quickly under a preheated grill. Serves 4.
CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE
185 g (6 oz) chicken livers
2 eggs
1½ cups milk
¼ teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
nutmeg
2 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
Remove any veins and sinew from chicken livers. Place in a blender with eggs, milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, garlic and parsley, and blend to a purée. It may be necessary to do this in 3 batches. Fill 6 small buttered soufflé dishes. Place in a roasting tin containing enough water to come halfway up sides of dishes. Cover with foil. Bake in a preheated hot oven (220°C/445°F) for 30 minutes or until mixture is set. Loosen sides of mousses from dishes with a knife, invert onto a heated plate and drain off any excess juices. Serve hot with Fresh Tomato Sauce. Serves 6.
CAULIFLOWER CREAM SOUP
½ medium cauliflower, broken into florets
4 cups chicken stock cup milk
30 g (1 oz) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
2 egg yolks
¼ cup cream
Reserve a few cauliflower florets for garnish. Drop remaining cauliflower into boiling salted water and cook for about 10 minutes or until tender. Drain and press through a sieve, or purée in a blender or food processor. Place in a saucepan, add stock and bring slowly to the boil. Add milk, butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Combine egg yolks with cream, add a little of the hot soup, blend well and stir into remaining soup. Cook gently without boiling until soup thickens. Garnish with sprigs of raw cauliflower and serve immediately, sprinkled with a light fresh grating of nutmeg. Serves 6.
ARMENIAN NUTMEG CAKE
2 cups firmly packed brown sugar
2 cups self-raising flower, sifted
125 g (4 oz) butter
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1 cup milk
1 egg, beaten
1 teaspoon nutmeg
½ cup chopped walnuts
Combine sugar and flour. Rub in butter until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Press half the mixture into a well-greased 20 cm (8 in) square tin. Dissolve soda in milk, add egg and nutmeg and pour over remaining sugar and flour mixture. Mix well, then spoon into tin on top of pressed-in mixture. Sprinkle walnuts over. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (180°C/350°F) for 1 hour. Allow to stand for 15 minutes then turn out onto a wire rack to cool.
NUTS
These are one of man’s oldest foods and one of the most useful. As well as making sustaining and convenient snacks, they are excellent companions to fruit or cheese for dessert and have dozens of culinary uses from nut butters, salads, savoury dishes, breads, cakes and biscuits to desserts, ice creams and confectionery.
For long storage, nuts should be kept unshelled in a cool place or in the freezer. If shelled, buy in quantities you can use up within a few weeks and keep them in an airtight container in a cool, dark, dry place. Larger quantities of shelled nuts are best stored in the freezer. Since exposure to air and light causes loss of flavour, you will find that nuts that you blanch, chop or grind just before using are much better than the ready-prepared products.
Salted Nuts: Peanuts, cashews, walnuts, almonds, etc., can be salted individually or mixed. Heat about 2 tablespoons butter or oil for each cup of blanched nuts. Spread nuts in a thin, even layer in the pan and cook slowly, stirring continuously, until nuts are a delicate, even brown. Remove from pan, drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt, allowing about ½ teaspoon per cup of nuts. Toss lightly to coat and serve, or cool and store in an airtight container.
Curried Nuts: Follow recipe for Salted Nuts, but add ½ teaspoon curry powder per cup of nuts to salt before sprinkling over. Onion or garlic salt may be substituted for plain salt, for added flavour.
Devilled Nuts: Follow recipe for Salted Nuts until nuts are browned, then for each cup of nuts add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, ½ teaspoon salt and small pinch cayenne to pan. Stir over gentle heat until nuts are evenly coated, remove from pan and drain on paper towels. Pass around when serving drinks.
See also Nut Brittle; Nut Butter; and individual entries for nuts.