All twenty patterns in this book are written using UK crochet terms, and each design includes the relevant crochet charts to complete the project.
These charts use the standard universal crochet symbols; there is a full list of these symbols, including both UK and US terminology, to familiarize yourself with before diving headlong into the patterns (see Pattern Abbreviations and Symbols).
If you are unfamiliar with any of the stitches used, refer to the handy Techniques section, which includes a step-by-step guide for each type of stitch.
Crochet charts read exactly as a piece of crochet is created. Motifs worked in the round start at the centre, beginning with the foundation chain or adjustable ring, and are read anticlockwise, just as they are crocheted, with the start of each new round being numbered accordingly. Generally, motifs worked in rows begin at the bottom or bottom left corner with a foundation chain; odd numbered rows are then worked from right to left and even numbered rows are worked left to right. One more thing to note: the crochet charts do not include information on colour placement; for this, please refer to the written pattern or any diagrams provided.
The patterns also include information on tension (gauge) and the type of tension swatch you will need to work before you begin your project. In most cases it will be a blocked version of one of these three samples:
– a standard granny square motif worked in three treble shells of up to eight rounds, depending on the weight of yarn being used
– a simple circular motif worked in treble stitches with a twelve stitch increase in each round, up to eight rounds as before
– a square swatch with rows of treble stitches built from a foundation chain
Take note of how each finished project should be blocked and use this method for blocking your tension swatch (see Blocking). Measure your stitch count over a 10cm (4in) grid to see if it matches the required tension. If it does, you can get started on your lovely project. However, if you have too many stitches you will need to go up a hook size, and if you have too few you will need to go down a hook size. You may need to experiment a little with hook sizes until you get the tension right, but this is an essential part of any project. If you do not match your tension accurately your project may not come out at the right size, or worse you may end up running out of yarn!
Checking your tension carefully is especially useful when substituting the recommended yarn with your own favourite. Once you have accurately matched your tension you will then need to cross reference the meterage of the recommended yarn with your substitute to determine how much you will need to complete your project. Each pattern already includes a reasonable allowance so you should aim to match the quantity of the stated yarn as closely as possible.
Most of the projects in this book require steam blocking or pressing. This is my preferred method for blocking crochet as it is quick, easy and less likely to distort the finished piece than using the wet-blocking process. Crochet fabric is much denser than knitted fabric, using up to a third more yarn than knitting, so it will hold more water than knitted fabric during the wet-blocking process, making it heavier and more prone to stretching or distorting in ways it shouldn’t.
To steam block you will need both a steam iron and a press cloth. A press cloth can be a simple sheet of fine cotton, or any heat-proof fabric that will allow steam to pass through it while protecting your projects from accidental scorching. Small projects can be easily blocked on an ironing board but for a large blanket you will obviously need a larger surface, such as a floor. To protect your floor lay out old blankets or sheets to a size larger than your project (vintage wool blankets are ideal here), then lay your project on top smoothing out any creases. For circular and lap blankets, start at the centre and work outward gently adjusting as you go until the final shape lies neatly, and using a tape measure to ensure even proportions. For larger blankets, it is best to start at a corner and fan out from there.