INDEX

A B C D
E F G H
I J K L
M N O P
Q R S T
U V W Y
Z      

A

Abbeys: Cluny, 888–889; Fontenay, 869–870; Fontevraud, 436–437; Jumièges, 248; Mont St-Michel, 319–323; Notre-Dame de Sénanque, 670–671; St. Georges de Boscherville, 248

Abri du Cap Blanc: 482, 490

Acccommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations

Aiguille du Dru (Alps): 799

Aiguille du Midi Gondola (Alps): 791, 793, 794–798, 811

Airbnb.com: 1056–1057

Airborne Museum (Utah Beach): 306–307

Airlines (airfares): 1105–1106; budgeting, 10–11

Airports: Paris, 172–180. See also specific airports

Aître St. Maclou (Rouen): 245

À l’Aise Breizh (Dinan): 335

Albert 1er Park (Nice): 693

Albert, Prince of Monaco: 744

Albert Schweitzer Museum (Kaysersberg): 971

Albi: 518–529; eating, 528–529; map, 519; sights/activities, 520–527; sleeping, 527–528; tourist information, 518; transportation, 520, 529

Alésia MuséoParc (Alise-Ste-Reine): 866

Alet: 350

Alise Ste-Reine: 866, 872, 874

Allen, Paul: 689

Aloxe-Corton: 853–854, 860

Alpilles Mountains: 585, 633–634

Alpine Museum (Chamonix): 812

Alps (Alpes-Savoie): 773–821; cuisine, 775; geology, 800–801; map, 774; transportation, 775. See also Annecy; Chamonix

Alsace: 926–986; cuisine, 929; map, 927; transportation, 928–929. See also specific destinations

Alsatian Museum (Strasbourg): 982

Alsatian wines: 930, 947, 953–961, 964–965, 971, 975; map, 955; tours, 956

Amboise: 369–393; eating, 388–391; helpful hints, 370–371, 374; maps, 372–373, 390–391; orientation, 370–374; self-guided walk, 374–376; sights/activities, 376–379, 382–383; sleeping, 383–388; tourist information, 370; transportation, 370, 392–393

Amboise City Hall Museum: 375–376

Amboise Royal Castle (Château): 365, 376–378, 379

American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 296–298

American Cemetery and Memorial (Thiaucourt): 1026–1027

American Church (Paris): 42–43, 61

American Hospital (Paris): 26

Amphithéâtre (Arles): 584–585

Amsterdam: train travel, 185

Angoville-au-Plain Church: 303–304

Anis candies: 868

Annecy: 776–787; eating, 786–787; history, 780; map, 778–779; orientation, 776–780; sleeping, 784–786

Annecy Château Museum: 783

Annecy, Lake: 776, 780–784, 787

Annecy Museum: 782–783

Antibes: 753–766; eating, 765–766; helpful hints, 756–757; map, 754–755; orientation, 753–757; self-guided walk, 757–760; sights/activities, 760–763; sleeping, 763–764; tourist information, 753; transportation, 756, 757, 766

Antibes History and Archaeology Museum: 761

Anybody’s Tombstone (Dinan): 335

Aosta, Italy: 812–813

Apartment rentals: 1056–1058; Paris, 148–149; Riviera, 675

Apps: audio tours, 14; châteaux, 368; museums, 1048; navigation, 1096; Paris, 25; staying connected, 1077

Apt: market, 575

Aquarium, in Monaco: 748–749

Aqueduct (Pont du Gard): 629, 632–633

Arab World Institute (Paris): 105

“Arc de Triomphe” (Orange): 645

Arc de Triomphe (Paris): 49, 96–97, 104, 126

Archaeological museums: Alise Ste-Reine, 866; Antibes, 761; Arles, 592–594; Cluny, 888; Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, 482, 486–488; Lyon, 905–907; Nice, 704; Paris, 58, 91; Pont du Gard, 633; Strasbourg, 982

Archaeological sites: See Cro-Magnon caves; Roman sites

Architecture and Monuments Museum (Paris): 87

Argentière: 811

Arlaten Folk Museum (Arles): 591

Arles: 576–605; eating, 588–589, 602–604; helpful hints, 580–581; maps, 578–579, 596, 600–601; orientation, 576–581; self-guided walk, 581–592; sights/activities, 592–598; sleeping, 598–602; tourist information, 577; transportation, 577, 581, 605

Arles Ancient History Museum: 592–594

Arles Roman Theater: 584–585

Army Musuem (Paris): 48, 88–89

Arpentis Château: 387

Arromanches: 289–294

Arromanches 360° Theater: 291

Art museums: general tips, 1047–1048. See also specific art museums

Art: of the Riviera, 680. See also Cro–Magnon caves; Impressionism; and specific artists

Arve River: 793, 808–809

Atelier de la Soierie (Lyon): 901, 911

ATMs: 1041–1043. See also specific destinations

Attitude, French: 16–17

Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 14, 16, 25, 1106–1107

Au Lapin Agile (Paris): 123

Autoire: 504

Auzou (Rouen): 239

Avignon: 606–629; eating, 625–628; helpful hints, 608–609; maps, 610–611, 622–623; orientation, 606–609; self-guided walks, 612–619; sights/activities, 612–620; sleeping, 620–625; tourist information, 606–607; tours, 609; transportation, 607–608, 628–629

Avignon Ramparts: 614

Avignon Synagogue: 617–618

Aÿ: 1011

Azay-le-Rideau: 428–430

Azay-le-Rideau Château: 365, 428–429

B

Back Door travel philosophy: 19

Baeckeoffe: 929

Baie des Anges (Nice): 692

Ballooning: 367, 443, 469

Barge hotels: 1057–1058

Bartholdi, Frédéric-Auguste: 910–911, 912, 935, 939; Museum (Colmar), 940, 945–947

Basilica of Ste. Madeleine (Vézelay): 875–878

Basse Corniche: 730–732, 734, 741; map, 731

Bastides: 529–532

Bateaux-Mouches (Paris): 41, 170–171

Bateaux Parisiens (Paris): 41, 170

Baths of Constantine (Arles): 594

Batobus (Paris): 42–43

Battle of Hastings: overview, 272

Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 275–276

Baubigny: 858

Bayeux: 267–280; eating, 278–279; helpful hints, 270–271; map, 268–269; orientation, 268–271; sleeping, 276–278; tourist information, 267; transportation, 280

Bayeux Cathedral: 273–274

Bayeux Tapestry: 271–273

Bay of Angels (Nice): 692

Bay of Mont St-Michel: 316–317

“Bayonet Trench” (Verdun): 1025

Beaches: Annecy, 781; Antibes, 758, 761–763; Cap Ferrat, 735, 736–737; Cap Fréhel, 354; Collioure, 558–559, 560; Dinard, 352; Dunes de Chevrets, 356; Etrétat, 261–262; Juan-les-Pins, 763; Nice, 686, 692–693; Paris, 66–67; Pont du Gard, 631; Sables-d’Or-les-Pins, 353; St-Malo, 349. See also D–Day beaches

Beaujolais Wine Route: 924–925

Beaune: 826–848; eating, 846–848; helpful hints, 828–829; maps, 830–831, 842–843; sights/activities, 833–840; sleeping, 840–846; tourist information, 827; tours, 829, 832; transportation, 827–828, 848

Beaune Ramparts: 839

Beaune region: 848–864

Beauvais Airport (Paris): 178–179, 180

Bed-and-breakfasts (chambres d’hôtes): 42, 1055–1056; Paris, 149. See also specific destinations

Bedoin: market, 575

Belvès: market, 446

Bennwihr: 959, 972

Berthillon (Paris): 167

Beverages: 1073–1076. See also Wine and vineyards

Beynac: 462–463, 464, 466, 472–476; market, 446, 472

Beynac Château: 472–473

Bibliothèque Carnegie (Reims): 1002–1003

Biking (bike rentals): 1105; Tour de France, 1111; Alsace, 956, 960, 962, 965; Amboise, 371, 382; Annecy, 778–779, 782; Antibes, 757; Arles, 580; Avignon, 608–609; Bayeux, 270; Blois, 401, 404; Burgundy, 832, 848–849, 856–861; Camargue, 596–597; Carcassonne, 536–537; Chambord, 408; Chamonix, 793; Chinon, 417, 424; Colmar, 932–933; Dinan, 333, 340; Dordogne, 443, 500–501; Eguisheim, 962, 965; Giverny, 221; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 663–664; Kaysersberg, 971–972; Loire Valley, 366–367, 382, 401, 404, 408, 417, 424; Luberon, 662, 663–664; Lyon, 899–900; Nice, 686, 690–691, 695; Paris, 37, 40, 45–46; Provence, 569; Rance River Valley, 340; Ribeauvillé, 960; Riquewihr, 975; St-Emilion, 500–501; Sarlat, 448, 450; Strasbourg, 980; Vaison-la-Romaine, 650, 653; Versailles, 204; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 721

Black Virgins: 507, 509

Bléré: sleeping, 388

Blois: 400–407

Blois Royal Castle (Château): 364, 402–403

Blues clubs, in Paris: 122–123

Boat cruises: Annecy, 780–781; Avignon, 609; barges, 1057–1058; Beynac, 473; Colmar, 933; Dinan, 340–341; Honfleur, 261; hotel barges, 1057–1058; La Roque-Gageac, 469; Paris, 41–44, 170–171, 187–188; Riviera, 680, 688, 689; Strasbourg, 983; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 726

Boating: Annecy, 780; Antibes, 757; Chenonceaux, 395; Lyon, 900; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 726. See also Canoeing

Bocuse, Paul: 923, 1035

Bonaparte Bridge (Lyon): 902–903

Bonaparte, Napoleon: See Napoleon Bonaparte

Bon Marché (Paris): 117, 119

Bonnieux: 671; market, 575

Books, recommended: 1112–1114

Bordeaux: 499, 500

Boudin (Eugène): about, 258; Museum (Honfleur), 257–259

Boules: 100, 129, 349, 468, 572, 581, 691, 721–722, 767, 769

Boulevard Malesherbes (Paris): 118

Bourges: 880–884

Bourges Cathedral: 882–883

Bourges Medieval Quarter: 883

Boutiques (Paris): 117–120

Bouzy: 1009–1010

Braille, Louis: 94

Brancion: 885–886

Brayer (Yves) Museum (Les Baux): 638

British Military Cemetery (Bayeux): 275–276

Brittany: 329–358; map, 331; planning tips, 330; transportation, 330. See also specific destinations

Bruniquel: 530

Brussels: train travel, 185

Budgeting: 10–12

Bullgames, in Arles: 597–598

Burgundy: 822–891; cuisine, 824–825; maps, 823, 873; planning tips, 824–825. See also specific destinations

Burgundy Canal: 864, 865

Burgundy wines: 825–826, 828, 838–841, 848–864; maps, 857, 859; museum, in Beaune, 838; savoring tactics, 1072; shipping home, 840–841; tours, 832, 848–849; transportation, 824, 848–849; wine quality, 836–837

Buses (bus travel): 1093; airports, 174–175, 177–178, 179; budgeting, 11–12; map, 1084–1085; Paris, 33–35, 34, 36, 38–39, 40–41, 128, 131, 139, 187; three-week trip, 10–11. See also specific destinations

Business hours: 1040

Butterfly Exhibit (Hunawihr): 960

C

Caen: 309–312

Caen Memorial Museum: 310–312

Café Carlu (Paris): 105

Café de la Paix (Paris): 103

Cafés (brasseries): 1065–1066; Paris, 105, 120, 150, 171; tipping, 1044, 1065. See also specific destinations

Cahors: 514; market, 446

Calvados: 230–232, 300

Calvet Museum (Avignon): 619–620

Camarguais Museum: 595

Camargue, the: 595–597; map, 596

Camembert cheese: 230, 232

Campervan rentals: 1097

Camping (campgrounds): overview, 1056

Canadian Cemetery (Juno Beach): 308

Canadian D-Day sites: 307–308

Canal de Bourgogne: 864, 865

Canal du Midi (Carcassonne): 543

Cancale: 356–357

Candes-St-Martin: 424

Cannes Film Festival: 675, 706, 1110

Canoeing: Amboise, 382; Chinon, 417, 424; Collioure, 560; Dinan, 333–334; Dordogne River, 443, 463–466; Pont du Gard, 631

Cap d’Ail: 745

Cap d’Antibes: 759, 761–763

Cap Ferrat: 732–737; cruises, 688, 689, 726; map, 733

Cap Fréhel: 354

Capitaine Fracasse (Paris): 171

Carcassonne: 532–549; eating, 548–549; guided walk, 537–541; helpful hints, 536–537; maps, 534–535, 539; nightlife, 543–544; sights, 542–543; sleeping, 544–548; tourist information, 533; transportation, 533, 536, 549

Carennac: 503

Car insurance: 11–12, 1096–1097

Car leasing: 1097

Carnavalet Museum (Paris): 49, 106–107

Carnegie Library (Reims): 996, 1002–1003

Carnival (Nice): 675, 699, 706, 1110

Carpentras: market, 575

Car rentals: 1093–1097; budgeting, 11–12; Charles de Gaulle, 176–177. See also specific destinations

Carrières de Lumières (Les Baux): 639

Car travel (driving): 1097–1104; Albi, 529–530; Camargue, 595–597; Charles de Gaulle, 176–177; Collioure, 561–562; distances and time, 1101; Dordogne, 461–463, 529–530; driving tips, 1103–1104; La Route Napoléon, 675–676; navigating roundabouts, 1100; navigation, 1095–1096; parking in Paris, 187; Riviera, 675–676; road signs, 1098, 1102–1103; Route of the Bastides, 529–530; Spain, 562; three-week trip, 8–9. See also specific destinations

Casinos: Monte Carlo, 749–750

Castelnau-Bretenoux Château: 503

Castelnaud: 462–463, 465; sleeping, 471

Castelnaud Château: 470–471

Castelnau-de-Montmiral: 531–532

Castle Hill (Nice): 690, 705

Castles: See Châteaux

Catacombs of Paris: 95

Cathars: 522

Cathédrale de Monaco: 748

Cathédrale Notre-Dame: See Notre-Dame Cathedral

Cathédrale Russe (Nice): 690, 704–705

Caunes-Minervois: sleeping, 547–548

Caussade: 517

Cavaillon: 629; market, 575

Cave art: See Cro-Magnon caves

Caveau de Puligny-Montrachet: 850–851, 857

Caveau des Vignerons (Amboise): 382

Caveau des Vignerons (Morey-St-Denis): 863

Caves Painctes (Chinon): 423

Cell (mobile) phones: 15–16, 1076–1079, 1081

Cénac: 466; market, 446

Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Lyon): 900, 914

Centre International du Vitrail (Chartres): 216–217

Centre Pompidou (Paris): 49, 105, 111–112

Ceramics, Museum of (Rouen): 247

Céret: 562

Cézanne, Paul: 80, 619

Chagall, Marc: 103, 110, 111, 562, 768, 1000; Museum (Nice), 690, 701–702

Chagny: 853, 858

Chalet de la Floria (Alps): 808

Chalon-sur-Saône: 856

Chambolle-Musigny: 862–863

Chambord Château: 364, 407–411

Chamonix: 788–821; eating, 819–821; helpful hints, 790–791; history, 789; maps, 792, 795, 806–807, 814–815; orientation, 788–794; planning tips, 788; sights/activities, 793, 794–813; sleeping, 813–819; tourist information, 789; transportation, 790, 791–794, 821

Champagne: 987, 1004–1012; about, 1008

Champagne G. Tribaut (Hautvillers): 1011

Champagne Herbert Beaufort (Bouzy): 1010

Champagne region: 987–1016; cuisine, 988–989; maps, 988–989, 1010; planning tips, 987; tours, 1004–1005; transportation, 987–988

Champ de Mars (Paris): 86, 151

Champs-Elysées (Paris): 22, 48, 95–96, 126; map, 98–99

Changing of the Guard (Monaco): 745, 747–748

Chapaize: 886

Chapelle Cocteau (Villefranche): 723

Chapelle du Rosaire (Vence): 770

Chapelle et Phare de la Garoupe (Antibes): 762

Chapel of Penitents (Les Baux): 638

Chapel of St. Leo IX (Eguisheim): 963–964

Chapel of St. Pierre (Villefranche): 723

Chapel of the Rosary (Vence): 770

Charlemagne: 240–241, 509, 532, 1002, 1028, 1034

Charles de Cazanove (Reims): 1005–1006

Charles de Gaulle Airport (Paris): 172–177, 180; map, 173; sleeping, 147

Chartres: 209–218; eating, 218; helpful hints, 210–211; map, 210–211; orientation, 210–211; sleeping, 217–218; tourist information, 210

Chartres Cathedral: 209, 211–216

Chassagne-Montrachet Château: 851, 858

Château du Petit Thouars (Chinon): 423

Château Eza: 739

Châteauneuf-en-Auxois: 865, 872

Châteaux (castles): architecture, 1030; history, 380–381; Amboise, 365, 376–378, 379; Annecy, 783; Arpentis, 387; Azay-le-Rideau, 365, 428–429; Beynac, 472–473; Blois, 364, 402–403; Castelnau-Bretenoux, 503; Castelnaud, 470–471; Chambord, 364, 407–411; Chaumont-sur-Loire, 364, 413–415; Chenonceau, 364, 394–398; Cheverny, 364, 411–412; Chinon, 365, 421–422; Clos de Vougeot, 862; Clos-Lucé (Amboise), 365, 378–379; Collioure, 559; Commarque, 491; Eza, 739; Grimaldi (Antibes), 759; Guédelon, 879–880; Hautes Corbières, 550–552; Haut-Koenigsbourg, 960–961; Husseren Les Cinq, 965; La Fleunie, 494; Langeais, 365, 431–433; La Rochepot, 851–852, 858; Lastours, 553–554; Montfort, 462, 466–467; Nazelles, 387; Perreux, 387; Peyrepertuse, 551–552; Pray, 386, 391; Quéribus, 552; Rivau, 435; Rocamadour, 506, 508; Savigny, 855; Ussé, 435; Valençay, 416; Versailles, 48, 189–190, 194, 197–202; Villandry, 365, 433–435; Villeneuve (Vence), 769

Chaumont-sur-Loire Château: 364, 413–415

Cheeses: 230–231, 232, 368, 444–445, 574, 775, 824, 893, 989, 1071

Chemin de la Croix (Rocamadour): 504, 506, 508

Chemin des Fontaines (St-Cirq Lapopie): 653

Chemin du Fauvisme (Collioure): 560

Chemins de Fer de Provence: 705–706

Chénas: 924

Chenonceau Château: 364, 394–398

Chenonceaux: 394–400

Cher River: 366–367, 394, 397; canoeing, 382

Cheverny Château: 364, 411–412

Chinon: 416–428; eating, 426–427; helpful hints, 417; maps, 418–419, 430–431; sights/activities, 418–424; sleeping, 424–426; tourist information, 417; transportation, 427–428

Chinon Château: 365, 421–422

Chiroubles: 924

Chisseaux: eating, 399

Chocolat (movie): 469, 868, 1113

Chocolate: 118, 120, 239, 374, 1071–1072

Christmas markets: 984, 1111

Churches (eglises): architecture, 1030. See also specific churches

Church of the Holy Cross (Kaysersberg): 969–970

Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes): 759

Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Paris): 49, 113

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (Paris): 87

Civray-de-Touraine: sleeping, 388

Classical theaters: See Théâtre Antique

Clignancourt market (Paris): 120–121

Climate: 13–14, 1117–1118

Clos de Vougeot Château: 862

Clos-Lucé Château (Amboise): 365, 378–379

Clothing sizes: 1117

Cluny: 887–890

Cluny Abbey: 888–889

Cluny Museum (Paris): 49, 91; eating near, 168–170

Cluny Museum of Art and Archaeology: 888

Cocteau (Jean) Chapel (Villefranche): 723

Coffee: 1074–1075

Col de Banyuls: 562

Col de la Chaîne Mountain Pass: 659–660

Col de la Forclaz: 783–784

Collégiale Notre-Dame (Beaune): 837

Colline du Château (Nice): 690, 705

Collioure: 555–565; eating, 564–565; helpful hints, 558; map, 556–557; orientation, 555–558; sights, 558–562; sleeping, 562–564; tourist information, 556; transportation, 557–558, 565

Collioure Royal Castle (Château): 559

Colmar: 930–952; eating, 950–952; helpful hints, 932–933; map, 936–937; nightlife, 947–948; self-guided walk, 934–941; sights/activities, 941–947; sleeping, 948–950; tourist information, 931; tours, 933; transportation, 931–932, 952

Colmar Dominican Church: 940–941, 944–945

Colmar Folklore Evening: 947

“Colmar Pocket” Museum (Turckheim): 959

Commarque Château: 491

Comtal Château (Carcassonne): 542

Conciergerie (Paris): 65–66

Concoeur: 862

Condat-sur-Vézère: sleeping, 494

Confit de canard: 368, 445, 1070

Confluence (Lyon): 901, 915–916

Connery, Sean: 689

Conservatoire de Dentelles (Bayeux): 274–275

Constant, Christian: 158

Consulates: 1110

Cooking classes: Beaune, 829; Burgundy, 829; Nice, 689; Paris, 164–165; Provence, 650; Vaison-la-Romaine, 650

Cordes-sur-Ciel: 530

Cordon Bleu (Paris): 165

Corniches: 730–741

Costs of trip: 10–12

Côte d’Azur: See Riviera; and specific destinations

Côte de Grâce (Honfleur): 260–261

Côte d’Emeraude: 353

Côtes du Rhône: 647–661

Côtes du Rhône Wine Road: 657–661; map, 659

Cougnac Cave: 483, 496–497

Courses camarguaises, in Arles: 597–598

Courseulles-sur-Mer: 307–308

Cours Saleya (Nice): 698–699, 706; eating, 713

Cousteau Aquarium (Monaco): 748–749

Coustellet: market, 575

Créancey: 872

Credit cards: 15, 1041–1044

Crêpes: 1064

Crestet: 653, 657, 658

Cro-Magnon caves: 477–497, 513–514; at a glance, 482–483; helpful hints, 485; map, 478–479; overview, 477, 480–484; planning tips, 484–485; reservations, 15

Crown of Thorns: 62

Cruise ships, on the Riviera: 719–720, 730, 752. See also Boat cruises

Cryptoporticos (Arles): 586–587

Cryptoportique (Reims): 1003

Crystal Museum (Chamonix): 812

Cuisine: xv–xvi, 1058–1064, 1068–1076; Alsace, 929; Brittany, 331–332; Burgundy, 824–825; Champagne region, 988–989; Dordogne, 443–446; Languedoc-Roussillon, 517; Loire Valley, 368; Lyon, 893; Normandy, 230–232; Provence, 574; Riviera, 681; Savoie, 775

Curie, Marie: 94

Currency and exchange: 1041–1042

Customs House (Colmar): 934

Customs regulations: 1046

Cycling: See Biking

D

Dalí, Salvador: Museum (Paris), 115–116; Theater-Museum (Figueres), 562

David, Jacques-Louis: 73

Da Vinci Code: 876

Da Vinci, Leonardo: 369, 376, 378–379, 381; Mona Lisa, 72

D-Day beaches (Normandy): 280–312; American sites, 294–307; Canadian sites, 307–308; helpful hints, 288, 289–290; history timeline, 286; maps, 282–283, 288; planning tips, 281–282; tours, 284–288, 306; transportation, 282–285

D-Day Landing Museum (Arromanches): 291–292

Debit cards: 15, 1041–1044

Degas, Edgar: 79, 246, 619

De Gaulle Airport (Paris): See Charles de Gaulle Airport

Delacroix, Eugène: 74, 92, 246, 275; Museum (Paris), 92

Dentelles de Montmirail: 647, 657, 659–660, 660, 661

Department stores, in Paris: 117

Deportation Memorial (Paris): 58–59

Dessert: 1071–1072

Dietary restrictions: 1065

Digne: 705–706

Dinan: 332–345; eating, 344–345; helpful hints, 333–334; map, 336–337; orientation, 332–334; self-guided walk, 334–339; sights/activities, 339–341; sleeping, 341–344; tourist information, 332–333; transportation, 333, 345

Dinan Clock Tower: 335

Dinan Old Port: 339, 340–341, 345

Dinan Ramparts: 338

Dinard: 352–353

Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations

Discounts: See Money-saving tips

Disneyland Paris: 224–227

Dizy: 1011

Dolder Museum (Riquewihr): 974

Domaine Comte Senard (Aloxe-Corton): 854, 860

Domaine de Balme: 811

Domaine de Coyeux Winery: 660

Domaine de la Chevalerie (Chinon): 423–424

Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (Versailles): 190–191, 194, 195, 203–206; map, 205

Domaine de Mourchon Winery: 658

Domaine Lejeune (Pommard): 849–850

Domaine Naudin-Ferrand (Magny-les-Villers): 854, 860–861

Domaine René LeClerc (Gevrey-Chambertin): 864

Domaines d’Aloxe-Corton: 853, 860

Dominican Church (Colmar): 940–941, 944–945

Domme: 462, 467–468; market, 446, 467

Dordogne: 439–514; cuisine, 443–446; map, 441; markets, 444–446; planning tips, 439–441; transportation, 442–443. See also specific destinations

Dordogne River: 461; canoeing, 443, 463–466; cruises, 469, 473

Dordogne River Valley: 461–476; map, 464–465; sights, 466–476

Douaumont Ossuary (Verdun): 1024–1025

Driving: See Car travel; and specific destinations

Ducal Palace (Nice): 699

Duclair: 247

Duingt: 781, 782

Dunes de Chevrets: 356

Dynamic Currency Conversion: 1043

E

Eastern Dordogne: 501–511

Eating: 1058–1076; budgeting, 12; restaurant phrases, 1126; tipping, 1044, 1065. See also Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations

Economy: xix, 1032–1033, 1036

Eglise de Carsac: 462

Eglise des Dominicains (Colmar): 940–941, 944–945

Egouts de Paris: 88

Eguisheim: 958, 961–967; map, 964–965

Eguisheim Castle: 963–964

Eiffel Tower (Paris): 15, 48, 82–86, 104, 126

Eleanor of Aquitaine: 416, 436–437, 882, 1029, 1034

Electricity: 1040

Elevage du Bouyssou (Sarlat): 476

E-mail: 1079, 1081–1082. See also specific destinations

Embassies: 1110

Emerald Coast: 353

Emergencies: 1039, 1109; Paris, 25

Entrevaux: 706

Epernay: 1012

Equestrian Performance Academy (Versailles): 194

Espace Tairraz (Chamonix): 812

Etang de Vaccarès: 595

Etrétat: 261–262

Euro currency: 1041–1042

Eurostar: 186

Evelles: 858

Exchange rate: 1042

Eza Château: 739

Eze-Bord-de-Mer: 737, 740

Eze Church: 739

Eze Gardens: 739

Eze-le-Village: 737–740

F

Faience: 244, 247

Fashion, in Paris: 116–120

Fauchon (Paris): 118

Fayencerie Augy (Rouen): 244

Fayrac Château: 465–466

Fenocchio (Nice): 714

Festival of Lights (Lyon): 899, 1111

Festivals: 1110–1111. See also specific festivals

Films, recommended: 1114–1116

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain: 868, 874

Fleurie: 924

Flower markets: Nice, 698–699; Paris, 64

Flowers, blooming season: 13–14

Foie gras: 443–444, 445, 453, 474–475, 476

Folklore Evening (Colmar): 947

Fondation Angladon-Dubrujeaud (Avignon): 619

Fondation Maeght (St-Paul-de-Vence): 767–768

Fondation Van Gogh (Arles): 589–590

Font-de-Gaume Cave: 482, 488–490

Fontenay Abbey: 869–870

Fontevraud Royal Abbey: 436–437

Fontvieille: sleeping, 602

Fontvieille (Monaco): 748

Food allergies: 1065

Food tours and classes: Avignon, 609; Beaune, 829; Burgundy, 829; Nice, 689; Paris, 164–165; Provence, 570, 650.; Vaison-la-Romaine, 650. See also Cheeses; Chocolate; Cuisine; Eating; Foie gras; Markets; Olive oil; Truffles

Fort Carré (Antibes): 757–758, 761

Fort de Douaumont (Verdun): 1026

Forteresse Royale de Chinon: 365, 421–422

Fort la Latte: 354–355

Fort St. Elme (Collioure): 561

Forum Square (Arles): 590–591. See Place du Forum

Fougères: 357–358

Fouquet’s (Paris): 96

Fourvière Hill (Lyon): 894, 903, 903–907

Fragonard Perfume Factory (Eze): 739–740

Fragonard Perfume Museum (Paris): 103

French Alps: See Alps

French attitude: 16–17

French language: See Language

French Riviera: See Riviera

Fuissé: 924

G

Gadagne Museums (Lyon): 901, 910

Gaillac: 517

Galamus Gorge: 550

Galerie Mario Colonel (Chamonix): 812

Galeries Lafayette (Paris): 103, 105, 117, 124

Gallo-Roman Museum (Lyon): 900, 905–907

Gare d’Austerlitz (Paris): 184–185

Gare de Bercy (Paris): 185

Gare de l’Est (Paris): 184

Gare de Lyon (Paris): 183–184

Gare du Nord (Paris): 181–182

Gare Montparnasse (Paris): 182

Gare St. Lazare (Paris): 184

Garnier Opera (Paris): 49, 100–103, 125; map, 102

Gauguin, Paul: 80–81, 91, 591

Gauls: 867, 1028

Gay nightlife, in Paris: 138

Geneva Airport: 777, 790, 821

Geography: xviii

Gérard Sion Galerie (Carcassonne): 543

Géricault, Théodore: 73–74, 246, 619

German Military Cemeteries (Normandy): 302, 323

Gevrey-Chambertin: 863–864

Gigondas: 660–661

Gîtes: 1056–1057

Giverny: 219–224; eating, 223–224; map, 220; sleeping, 223–224

Gogo Paris app, 25

Gondolas, in Chamonix: 791–802; map, 792

Gordes: 670; market, 575

Gorges de Galamus: 550

Gouffre de Padirac: 510

Government: xix, 1032–1033, 1036–1037

Gramat: sleeping, 511

Grand Balcon Nord (Alps): 803–804

Grand Balcon Sud (Alps): 804–805

Grande Arche (Paris): 49, 99–100

Grande Corniche: 730–732, 740; map, 731

Grand Palais (Paris): 98–99

Grand Prix of Monaco: 675, 706, 741, 747, 1110

Grimaldi Château (Antibes): 759

Gros Horloge (Rouen): 239–240

Grotte de Font-de-Gaume: 482, 488–490

Grotte de Rouffignac: 483, 494–496

Grotte du Pech Merle: 483, 513–514

Grotte Préhistorique des Merveilles: 508

Grottes de Cougnac: 483, 496–497

Grünewald, Matthias, Isenheim Altarpiece: 942–944

Guédelon Château: 879–880

Guidebooks, Rick Steves: 1106; updates, 3

Guy de Chassey (Louvois): 1009

H

Halles Boulingrin (Reims): 996, 1003

Hanggliding: 808, 809

Hartmannswillerkopf (Eguisheim): 958–959

Haussmann, Baron Georges-Eugène: 101

Hautes Corbières Château: 550–552

Haut-Koenigsbourg Château: 960–961

Hautvillers: 1011

Hédiard (Paris): 118

Helbronner Point: 791, 797

Henri de Villamont (Savigny): 854–855, 861

Hermès (Paris): 120

High Corniche: 730–732, 740; map, 731

Hiking (walking): Alsace, 956–957; Annecy, 781–782; Antibes, 761–763; Bayeux, 274; Beaune, 838–839; Beynac, 473; Bourges, 883; Burgundy, 832, 838–839; Cap Ferrat, 736–737; Cap Fréhel, 354; Carcassonne, 542; Chamonix, 789, 793, 802–809, 818; Château de Commarque, 491; Collioure, 561–562; Dinan, 340; Eguisheim, 962–963; Etrétat, 261–262; Eze, 740; Fort la Latte, 354–355; Gigondas, 661; Giverny, 221; Honfleur, 260–261; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 663–664; Kaysersberg, 971–972; Lastours, 553, 554; Mont St-Michel, 316, 318; Nice, 695; Pont du Gard, 631, 632–633; Rance River Valley, 340; Ribeauvillé, 960; Riquewihr, 975; Roussillon, 667; Route du Vin (Alsace), 956–957; Vaison-la-Romaine, 653; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 726–727

Hill towns of the Luberon: 661–672; map, 664–665

Historial Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 242–244

History: 1028–1037

Holidays: 1110–1111

Holocaust Memorial (Paris): 110–111

Honfleur: 251–267; eating, 264–266; helpful hints, 254–255; map, 252–253; orientation, 251–255; sights/activities, 255–263; sleeping, 262–264; tourist information, 251; transportation, 254, 266–267

Horseback shows: 408, 889–890

Hospices de Beaune: 833–837

Hospitals: 1039, 1109; Paris, 25

Hostels (auberge de jeunesse): 1056. See also specific destinations

Hot-air ballooning: 367, 443, 469

Hôtel de la Cité (Carcassonne): 541, 543

Hôtel de Ville (Orange): 645

Hôtel de Ville (Paris): 112; eating, 165–166

Hôtel Dieu des Hospices de Beaune: 833–837

Hôtel La Mirande (Avignon): 616–617

Hôtel Negresco (Nice): 691, 706, 710–711

Hotels: 1050–1055; modern chains, 1055; online reviews, 1054; reservations, 14, 1058–1059. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations

Houdini, Harry (Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin): 403–404

House of Etienne de la Boëtie (Sarlat): 451

“House of Heads” (Colmar): 941

House of Magic (Blois): 403–404

Hugo, Victor: 58, 88, 94, 101, 106, 322

Huisnes-sur-Mer: 323

Hunawihr: 960

Hundred Years’ War: 238, 1029

Hurepel de Minerve: 554

Husseren Les Cinq Château: 965

Hyatt Regency (Paris): 105

I

Ile Besnard: 356

Ile de la Cité (Paris): 22, 52–58; map, 54–55

Ile St. Louis (Paris): 59, 126; eating, 166–167; map, 54–55; sleeping, 146–147

Ill River: cruises, 983

Illuminated Lyon: 898

Impressionism: 78–79, 81–82, 219, 221–223, 256

Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique: 73, 77

Institut du Monde Arabe (Paris): 105

International Stained Glass Center (Chartres): 216–217

Internet access: 1076–1082. See also specific destinations

Internet calling: 1077, 1081

Internet security: 1081

Isenheim Altarpiece (Grünewald): 942–944

Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 663–666; market, 575

Italy: 797, 812–813

J

Jacquemart-André Museum (Paris): 49, 103–104

Jardin des Plantes (Paris): 93

Jardin du Luxembourg (Paris): 92–93, 151

Jardin du Rocher des Doms (Avignon): 614

Jardin Exotique de Monaco: 749

Jardins d’Eze: 739

Jazz clubs, in Paris: 122–123

Jewish Art and History Museum (Paris): 49, 110

Jewish Quarter (Paris): 110, 163–165

Joan of Arc: 57, 228, 238–239, 247, 416, 422, 883, 997, 1029, 1034; biographical sketch, 243; Museum (Rouen), 242–244

Joan of Arc Church (Rouen): 238–239

Joan of Arc Museum (Rouen): 242–244

Joan of Arc Tower (Rouen): 247

John, Elton: 689

Joucas: sleeping, 668

Juan-les-Pins: 763

Juliénas: 924

Julien Bridge: 671

Jumièges Abbey: 248

Juno Beach: 307–308

Juno Beach Centre (Courseulles): 307–308

K

Kayaking: See Canoeing

Kaysersberg: 959, 967–972

Kaysersberg-History Museum: 970

Kientzheim: 972

King’s Vegetable Garden (Versailles): 194

Koïfhus (Colmar): 934

L

La Basoche (Lyon): 909

La Belle Iloise (Dinan): 337

La Cambe: 302

Lac Blanc (Alps): 805, 808

Lace Conservatory (Bayeux): 274

La Cité (Carcassonne): 533; eating, 548–549; guided walk, 537–541; map, 539; sleeping, 544–545

La Cité Médiévale (Rocamadour): 504–505, 510

La Cité Religieuse (Rocamadour): 504–505, 508–509

La Cohue (Dinan): 336–337

La Condamine (Monaco): 744

La Confluence (Lyon): 901, 915–916

Lacoste: 671; market, 575

La Coulée Verte Parkway (Nice): 695

La Craquanterie (Dinan): 335

La Croix-Rousse (Lyon): 901, 911–912

La Défense (Paris): 49, 99–100

La Digue de la Mer: 596

Ladurée (Paris): 118

Lady and the Unicorn tapestries: 49, 91

La Flégère Lift (Alps): 793, 800–802, 804–805, 808, 811

La Fleunie Château: 494

La Grande Arche (Paris): 49, 99–100

La Maison des Truffe (Paris): 118

La Marmite de l’Abbaye: 340

Langeais Château: 365, 431–433

Langrolay: sleeping, 343–344

Language: barrier and French attitude, 16–17; classes, 43; coffee and tea lingo, 1074–1075; hotel lingo, 1052; online translation tip, 1041; Paris Métro, 31; picnic terms, 1060, 1061–1062; pronunciation guide, 1120–1123; restaurant phrases, 1126; road signs, 1102–1103; survival phrases, 1125; train terms, 1086; wine lingo, 1073

Languedoc-Roussillon: 515–565; cuisine, 517; map, 516; planning tips, 516–517; transportation, 517. See also specific destinations

Lantern of the Dead (Sarlat): 451

La Petite France (Strasbourg): 982–983, 985

La Rochepot Château: 851–852, 858

La Roque-Gageac: 462–463, 465, 468–470

La Roque St-Christophe: 483, 492–493

La Roquette (Arles): 594

La Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 247–248

La Route Napoléon: 675–676

Lascaux II: 482–483, 493–494

Lastours Châteaux: 553–554

L’Atelier (Arles): 604

Latin Quarter (Paris): 60–61, 91, 122

La Tour Eiffel (Paris): 15, 48, 82–86, 126

La Trophée d’Auguste: 740–741

La Turbie: 729, 740–741

Le Brévent Gondola (Alps): 793, 800–802, 811

Le Bugue: market, 446

Le Capitaine Fracasse (Paris): 171

Le Caveau des Musignys: 862–863

Le Cordon Bleu (Paris): 165

Left Bank (Paris): 21–22, 91–95; eating, 167–170; guided tours, 46–47; maps, 93, 119, 169; shopping, 119–120

Left Bank Scooters (Paris): 46–47

Le Havre: 187–188

Léhon: 340, 344

Le Mémorial de Caen: 310–312

Le Mistral: 575

Leonardo da Vinci Park (Amboise): 378–379

Le Paradou: sleeping, 640

Le Ruquet: 298

Le Saut aux Loups: 437–438

Les Baux: 633–641; map, 636; tourist information, 634–635

Les Baux Castle Ruins: 635, 637

Les Bossons: sleeping, 817–818

Les Egouts de Paris: 88

Le Semnoz: 783

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac: 486–488; caves near, 488–490, 492–497; market, 446; sleeping, 488

Les Grands Montets: 811

Les Haras Nationaux (Cluny): 889–890

Les Houches: sleeping, 818

Les Invalides (Paris): 151

Les Larmes de Jeanne d’Arc (Rouen): 239

Les Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 899, 906–907

Le Somail: sleeping, 548

L’Espace Dalí (Paris): 115–116

Les Praz: 800, 802, 805, 808

Le Trophée des Alpes: 740–741

L’Hospitalet (Rocamadour): 503–504, 506, 508

Liberty Leading the People (Delacroix): 74

Lido (Paris): 96

Ligré: sleeping, 425–426

Limeray: sleeping, 387–388

Loches: 416

Loire River: 360, 374; biking along, 366–367, 382, 404; canoeing, 382

Loire Valley: 359–438; châteaux at a glance, 364–365; châteaux history, 380–381; cuisine, 368; home base, 360–362; map, 360–361; planning tips, 362–363; tours, 368; transportation, 363–367; wines, 368–369, 382–383, 404, 412, 420, 422–424. See also specific destinations

London: train travel, 186

Longchamps (Paris): 120

Longues-sur-Mer Gun Battery: 295

L’Orangerie (Paris): 48, 81–82

L’Ossuaire de Douaumont (Verdun): 1024–1025

Lot River Valley: 512–514

Loubressac: 503–504

Louis Vuitton Foundation (Paris): 97

Louis XIV (Sun King): 200–201, 1034; Versailles, 48, 189, 198–202

Lourmarin: market, 575

Louvois: 1009

Louvre Museum (Paris): 48, 68–75; map, 69

Low Corniche: 730–732, 734, 741; map, 731

Lower Town (Les Baux): 637–639

Luberon hill towns: 661–672; map, 664–665

Luge: 809

Lumière Museum (Lyon): 900, 914–915

Luncheon on the Grass (Manet): 78–79

Luxembourg Garden (Paris): 92–93, 151

Lyon: 892–925; at a glance, 900–901; cuisine, 893; eating, 921–923; helpful hints, 899–900; layout of, 894; maps, 896–897, 908, 918–919; nightlife, 916; orientation, 894–902; planning tips, 892–893; self-guided walk, 902–903; shopping, 913; sights/activities, 903–916; sleeping, 916–920; tourist information, 894–895; tours, 894–895; transportation, 895, 898, 900–902, 923–924

Lyon Airport: 898

Lyon City Card: 895

Lyon City Hall: 910

Lyon History Museum: 910

Lyon Museum of Fine Arts: 900, 912

Lyon traboules: 909

M

Mâcon: 924–925

Madeloc Tower: 561–562

Maeght Foundation (St-Paul-de-Vence): 767–768

Magic, House of (Blois): 403–404

Maginot Monument (Verdun): 1023

Magny-les-Villers: 854, 860–861

MAHB (Bayeux): 275

Mail: 1082. See also specific destinations

Maison de la Magie (Blois): 403–404

Maison des Têtes (Colmar): 941

Maison du Chocolat (Paris): 120

Maison Forte de Reignac: 492

Maison Herzer (Kaysersberg): 970

Maison Pfister (Colmar): 939

Maisons Satie (Honfleur): 259–260

Malaucène: 657; market, 575

Manet, Edouard: 78–79, 619

Manoir de Gisson (Sarlat): 453

Manville Mansion City Hall (Les Baux): 638

Maps: to buy, 1107–1108; for driving, 1095–1096; legend, 2. See also Map Index

Marais (Paris): 22, 105–113, 138–145; eating, 158–166; guided tours, 44; maps, 108–109, 140–141, 160–161; markets, 138–139; sleeping, 140–145

Mariage Frères (Paris): 118

Marie-Antoinette: 65–66, 201, 202, 205–206, 1034–1035

Markets: 1062–1063; Albi, 520, 527; Amboise, 371; Annecy, 777; Antibes, 756, 759; Apt, 575; Arles, 597; Avignon, 618; Bayeux, 270; Beaune, 828; Belvès, 446; Beynac, 446, 472; Bourges, 881; Cahors, 446; Carcassonne, 536; Cavaillon, 575; Cénac, 446; Chamonix, 790–791; Chartres, 209; Chinon, 417; Cluny, 887; Collioure, 558; Colmar, 932, 935, 938; Dinan, 333, 336–337; Dinard, 352; Domme, 446, 467; Dordogne, 446; Gordes, 575; Honfleur, 254; Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, 663; Kaysersberg, 968; Le Bugue, 446; Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, 446; Loches, 416; Lourmarin, 575; Lyon, 899; Martel, 503; Montignac, 446; Nice, 698–699; Nyons, 575; Orange, 641; Paris, 120–122, 130, 138–139; Provence, 575; Reims, 996, 1003; Rouen, 235, 245; Sarlat, 446, 448, 452; Souillac, 446; St-Cyprien, 446; St-Geniès, 446; Strasbourg, 984; St-Rémy, 575; Uzès, 575; Vaison-la-Romaine, 650; Vence, 769; Versailles, 207; Villefranche-sur-Mer, 721

Marmottan Museum (Paris): 49, 90–91

Martel (Reims): 1007

Martel (town): 502–503

Martigny, Switzerland: 794, 812

Mary Magdalene: 875, 876, 878

Masséna Museum (Nice): 690, 704

Massif Fortifié de Souville (Verdun): 1022

Matisse, Henri: 81–82, 111, 560, 562, 912; Chapel of the Rosary (Vence), 770; Museum (Nice), 690, 703

Matterhorn: 796

Maussane: eating, 640–641; sleeping, 640

Mayle, Peter: 575, 661, 671, 1113

Medical help: 1039, 1109; Paris, 25

Medieval Quarter (Bourges): 883

Mémorial de Caen: 310–312

Mémorial de la Déportation (Paris): 58–59

Mémorial de la Shoah (Paris): 110–111

Mémorial Musée (Verdun): 1023

Ménerbes: 671–672

Menthon-St-Bernard: 781–782

Mercedes-Benz (Paris): 96

Mer de Glace (Alps): 793, 798–799, 803–804

Merveilles Cave: 508

Meter Man (Colmar): 939–940

Metric system: 1117

Métro (Paris): 30–33, 138, 139; Cité “Metropolitain” stop, 64; Rue Cler, 130–131; tickets, 27–30

Meursault: 850, 856

Middle Corniche: 730–732, 737, 739; map, 731

Minerve: 553–554

Mini-Châteaux (Amboise): 379, 382

Mirabel: 653

Miró, Joan: 100, 562, 768

Mischief and Mayhem (Aloxe-Corton): 853–854, 860

Mistral, Frédéric: 591

Mistral winds: 575

Mobile phones: 15–16, 1076–1079, 1081

Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Nice): 690, 703–704

Modern-Art Museum (Céret): 562

Moët et Chandon (Epernay): 1012

Monaco: 741–752; eating, 751; helpful hints, 745–746; map, 742–743; orientation, 744–746; self-guided walk, 746–749; sights/activities, 749–750; sleeping, 751; tourist information, 744; transportation, 745, 746, 751–752

Monaco Cathedral: 748

Monaco Grand Prix: 675, 706, 741, 747, 1110

Monaco-Ville: 744, 746–749

Mona Lisa (da Vinci): 72

Monet, Claude: 79, 256, 258, 912, 1035; Giverny, 219, 221–223; Marmottan Museum (Paris), 49, 90–91; Orangerie Museum (Paris), 48, 81–82

Money: 1041–1046; budgeting, 10–12

Money-saving tips: 1040, 1049–1050; Arles, 580; Avignon, 606–607; Lyon, 895; Paris, 26–30, 50–52, 60–61, 124; sleeping, 1049–1050

Mont Blanc: 773, 788, 790, 796

Monte Carlo: 744, 749–750

Monte Carlo Ballet: 746

Monte Carlo Casino: 749–750

Montenvers: 793, 798–799, 803–804

Montfort: 462, 466–467

Montignac: market, 446

Montmartre (Paris): 22, 113–116; cabaret, 123; eating, 170; map, 115

Montmartre Museum (Paris): 116

Montparnasse Tower (Paris): 94–95, 105

Montsec Monument (St-Mihiel): 1023

Mont St-Michel: 312–328; eating, 326–327; helpful hints, 316; maps, 315, 317; orientation, 313–316; sights/activities, 316–323; sleeping, 324–326; tourist information, 313; transportation, 314–315, 327–328

Mont St-Michel Abbey: 319–323

Mont St-Michel Bay: 316–317

Mont St-Michel Ramparts: 323

Mont Ventoux: 614, 648, 659–660

Monument to the Dying Lion (Verdun): 1023

Morey-St-Denis: 863

Morrison, Jim: 113

Mortemart: 499

Moulin Rouge (Paris): 113, 116

Moutarderie Fallot (Beaune): 838

Movies, recommended: 1114–1116

Moyenne Corniche: 730–732, 737, 739; map, 731

Mumm (Reims): 1005

Musée Alpin (Chamonix): 812

Musée Animé du Vin (Chinon): 420, 423, 426

Musée Archéologique: See Archaeological museums

Musée Arlaten (Arles): 591

Musée Calvet (Avignon): 619–620

Musée Carnavalet (Paris): 49, 106–107

Musée-Château d’Annecy: 783

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Baron Gérard (Bayeux): 275

Musée d’Art et Histoire du Judaïsme (Paris): 110

Musée d’Art Moderne de Céret: 562

Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice): 690, 703–704

Musée de la Civilisation Gallo-Romaine (Lyon): 900, 905–907

Musée de la Communication (Riquewihr): 975

Musée de la Reddition (Reims): 996, 1004

Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques: 592–594

Musée de l’Armée (Paris): 48, 88–89

Musée de l’Hôtel de Ville (Amboise): 375–376

Musée de l’Orangerie (Paris): 48, 81–82

Musée de Montmartre (Paris): 116

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Lyon, 900, 912; Nice, 690, 704; Paris, 97–98; Rouen, 246–247; Strasbourg, 982

Musée des Confluences (Lyon): 916

Musée des Cristaux-Espace Tairraz (Chamonix): 812

Musée d’Histoire et d’Archéologie (Antibes): 761

Musée d’Orsay (Paris): 48, 75–81; map, 76

Musée du Débarquement (Arromanches): 291–292

Musée du Débarquement (Utah Beach): 304–305

Musée du Louvre (Paris): 48, 68–75; map, 69

Musée du Petit Palais (Avignon): 613

Musée du Quai Branly (Paris): 86

Musée du Vin (Paris): 87

Musée du Vin de Bourgogne (Beaune): 838

Musée Jacquemart-André (Paris): 49, 103–104

Musée Lapidaire (Avignon): 620

Musée le Secq des Tournelles (Rouen): 247

Musée Lumière (Lyon): 900, 914–915

Musée Marmottan Monet (Paris): 49, 90–91

Musée Masséna (Nice): 690, 704

Musée Matisse (Nice): 690, 703

Musée Mémorial de la Bataille de Normandie (Bayeux): 275–276

Musée National d’Art Moderne (Paris): 111

Musée National de la Marine (Paris): 86–87

Musée National de Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 482, 486–488

Musée National du Moyen Age (Paris): 49, 91; eating, 168–170

Musée National Eugène Delacroix (Paris): 92

Musée National Marc Chagall (Nice): 690, 701–702

Musée Océanographique (Monaco): 748–749

Musée Picasso (Antibes): 760–761

Musée Picasso (Paris): 49, 107–110

Musée Réattu (Arles): 594–595

Musée Rodin (Paris): 48, 89–90

Musées des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs (Lyon): 901, 913

Musées Gadagne (Lyon): 901, 910

Musée Toulouse-Lautrec (Albi): 524–526

Musée Yves Brayer (Les Baux): 638

MuséoParc Alésia (Alise-Ste-Reine): 866

Museum of Annecy: 782–783

Museum of Ceramics (Rouen): 247

Museum of Decorative Arts (Strasbourg): 982

Museum of Ethnography and Norman Popular Art (Honfleur): 260

Museum of Impressionisms (Giverny): 222–223

Museum of Ironworks (Rouen): 247

Museum of Santons (Les Baux): 639

Museum of the Sea (Honfleur): 260

Museum of the Surrender (Reims): 996, 1004

Museum of the Wine of Burgundy (Beaune): 838

Museum of Wine (Paris): 87

Museums: sightseeing tips, 1047–1048. See also specific museums

Museums of Old Honfleur: 260

Museums of Textiles and Decorative Arts (Lyon): 901, 913

Mushroom caves: 437–438

Mustard Mill (Beaune): 838

N

Napoleon Bonaparte: 73, 96–97, 202, 676, 889, 1029, 1035; Tomb (Paris), 48, 88–89

Narbonne Gate (Carcassonne): 537–538

Narrow-gauge train (Nice): 705–706

National Maritime Museum (Paris): 86–87

National Museum of Prehistory (Les Eyzies): 482, 486–488

National Stud Farm (Cluny): 889–890

Nazelles-Négron: sleeping, 387

Nice: 682–720; at a glance, 690; eating, 712–717; excursions, 705–706; helpful hints, 683, 686; layout of, 682; maps, 684–685, 696–697, 708, 715; nightlife, 706; orientation, 682–688; self-guided walks, 689–701; shopping, 686; sights/activities, 689–705; sleeping, 706–712; tourist information, 682–683; tours, 688–689; transportation, 683, 686–687, 717–720

Nice Airport: 718–719; sleeping near, 712

Nice Archaeological Museum: 704

Nice Carnival: 675, 699, 706, 1110

Nice Fine Arts Museum: 690, 704

Nice Modern and Contemporary Art Museum: 690, 703–704

Nice opera house: 699

Nightlife: budgeting, 12. See also specific destinations

Normandy: 228–328; map, 230–231; planning tips, 228–229; transportation, 229. See also D–Day beaches

Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial (Omaha Beach): 296–298

Normandy Bridge: 229, 261

Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux): 275–276

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Chartres): 211–216

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Paris): 48, 53, 56–58, 104, 126

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Reims): 996–1001

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Rouen): 240–242

Notre-Dame Cathedral (Strasbourg): 980–982

Notre-Dame Church (Semur-en-Auxois): 871

Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Lyon): 900, 903–905

Notre-Dame de Grâce Chapel (Honfleur): 260

Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral (Vaison-la-Romaine): 652

Notre-Dame des Anges (Collioure): 559–560

Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey: 670–671

Nuits de Fourvière (Lyon): 899, 906–907

Nuits St-Georges: 861

Nyons: market, 575

O

Ochre Conservatory (Roussillon): 667

Ochre Trail (Roussillon): 667

Odéon Theater (Paris): eating near, 167–168

Old Lyon: See Vieux Lyon

Old Market Hall (Colmar): 935, 938

Old Nice: See Vieux Nice

Old Town (Colmar): 934–941; eating, 951–952

Olive oil: 446, 559, 714

Omaha Beach: 295–303; map, 282–283; sleeping near, 302–303

Omaha Beach Museum: 298

Open Sky Museum (Ste-Mère Eglise): 306

Opéra Bastille (Paris): 124–125

Opéra Garnier (Paris): 49, 100–103, 125

Opera house (Nice): 698

Opera, in Paris: 49, 100–103, 124–125; map, 102

Oppède-le-Vieux: 672

Oradour-sur-Glane: 497–499

Orange: 641–646; map, 642; market, 575

Orangerie Museum (Paris): 48, 81–82

Orange Roman Theater: 643–645

Orches: 858

Orly Airport (Paris): 177–178, 180; sleeping, 147–148

Orsay Museum (Paris): 48, 75–81; map, 76

Our Lady of Rocamadour: 508–509

P

Packing checklist: 1119

Padirac Cave: 510

Palace of Justice (Rouen): 240

Palace of the Popes (Avignon): 615–616, 615–616

Palais de Justice (Paris): 64

Palais de la Méditerrané (Nice): 693

Palais de l’Isle (Annecy): 782–783

Palais des Papes (Avignon): 615–616

Palais du Tau (Reims): 996, 1000–1001

Palais Jacques Coeur (Bourges): 883–884

Palais Jean de Bourbon (Cluny): 888

Palais Lascaris (Nice): 700

Palais Princier (Monaco): 747–748

Palais Rohan (Strasbourg): 982

Palais Royal (Paris): 74–75, 151

Panthéon (Paris): 49, 93–94; eating near, 168–170

Paradou: sleeping, 640

Paragliding: 808, 809

Parc de la Tête d’Or (Lyon): 900

Parc de Loisirs des Planards (Chamonix): 802, 809

Parc de Merlet (Chamonix): 802

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (Paris): 93

Parc des Cigognes (Hunawihr): 960

Parc Monceau (Paris): 93

Paris: 20–188; at a glance, 48–49; arrondisements, 21–23; daily reminder, 26–27; eating, 150–171; entertainment, 122–128; excursion areas, 189–227; helpful hints, 24–26; money-saving tips, 26–30, 50–52, 60–61; nightlife, 122–128; orientation, 21–23; parking, 187; planning tips, 20–21; self-guided walks, 52–67, 96–100, 117–120, 125–127; shopping, 103, 116–122; sights, 67–116; sleeping, 128–149; tourist information, 23; tours, 40–47, 127–128, 164; transportation, 27–40, 171–188. See also specific neighborhoods

Paris Archaeological Crypt: 58

Paris Catacombs: 95

Pariscope: 23, 27, 122, 123

Paris Greeter: 42

Paris Métro: See Métro

Paris Museum Pass: 50–51

Paris Plages: 66–67

Paris Sewers: 88

Parking in Paris: 187

Parler Parlor: 43

Passports: 14, 1039–1040

Path of Fauvism (Collioure): 560

Patriarche Père et Fils (Beaune): 839

Pech Merle Cave: 483, 513–514

Penitents Chapel (Les Baux): 638

Père Lachaise Cemetery (Paris): 49, 113

Perfume: 103, 117, 739–740

Pernand-Vergelesses: 860

Perreux Château: 387

Petit Balcon Sud (Alps): 808

Petite Venise (Colmar): 938, 950–951

Petit Palais (Paris): 97–98

Petit Palais Museum (Avignon): 613

Peugeot (Paris): 96

Peyrepertuse Château: 551–552

Pfister House (Colmar): 939

Philharmonic de Paris: 124

Philip the Fair Tower (Villeneuve): 620

Piaf, Edith: 113

Picasso, Pablo: 81–82, 912, 944; Museum (Antibes), 760–761; Museum (Paris), 49, 107–110

Pickpockets: See Theft alerts

Picnics: 1060–1062; best spots in Paris, 151; vocabulary, 1060, 1061–1062. See also Markets; and specific destinations

Pigalle (Paris): 116

Piscine du Centre Sportif Richard Bozon (Chamonix): 802

Place Albert I (Antibes): 753, 761

Place de la Liberté (Sarlat): 452

Place de la Madeleine (Paris): 103, 118–119

Place de la Mairie (Roussillon): 667

Place de la République (Arles): 586

Place de l’Horloge (Avignon): 612

Place de l’Opéra (Paris): 118–119

Place des Châtaignes (Avignon): 617, 627

Place des Oies (Sarlat): 453

Place des Terreaux (Lyon): 910–911

Place des Vosges (Paris): 106, 142–143, 151; eating, 159, 162

Place Drouet d’Erlon (Reims): 995, 996, 1014

Place du Centenaire (Eze): 738–739

Place du Change (Lyon): 910

Place du Forum (Arles): 590–591; eating, 602–603

Place du Forum (Reims): 1003, 1014

Place du Général de Gaulle (Chinon): 420

Place du Guesclin (Dinan): 334

Place du Palais (Avignon): 612–613

Place du Palais (Monaco): 747

Place du Peyrou (Sarlat): 450–451

Place du Trocadéro (Paris): 105

Place du Vieux Marché (Rouen): 238

Place Louis Lépine (Paris): 64

Place Marcou (Carcassonne): 548

Place Masséna (Nice): 694–695

Place Nautique (Lyon): 915–916

Place Rossetti (Nice): 700–701

Place Ste. Cécile (Albi): 520–521

Place St. Marc (Rouen): 235, 245

Place St. Michel (Paris): 61

Place Vendôme (Paris): 103, 118–119

Plage de la Gravette (Antibes): 758

Plage de la Paloma (Cap Ferrat): 735

Plage de la Salis (Antibes): 761, 762

Plage de Passable (Cap Ferrat): 735

Plague Cemetery (Rouen): 245

Plan de l’Aiguille (Alps): 797–798, 799, 803–804

Planpraz (Alps): 793, 804–805

Poilâne (Paris): 120

Pointe du Chevet: 355

Pointe du Grouin: 355, 356

Pointe du Hoc: 300–301

Pôle International de la Préhistoire (Les Eyzies): 482, 486

Politics: 1032–1033, 1036–1037

Pommard: 849–850, 856

Pompidou Center (Paris): 49, 105, 111–112, 151; sleeping, 144–145

Pont Bonaparte (Lyon): 902–903

Pont d’Avignon (pont St. Bénezet): 614–615

Pont de Normandie: 229, 261

Pont des Arts (Paris): 151

Pont du Gard: 629–633; map, 630; orientation, 630–631; transportation, 629–630

Pont Julien: 671

Pont Neuf (Paris): 66

Pont Valentré (Cahors): 514

Pont Vieux (Carcassonne): 542

Population: xviii

Port de Lyvet: 340, 341

Porte de Clignancourt (Paris): 120–121

Porte de Mars (Reims): 1003

Port Winston Artificial Harbor (Arromanches): 289, 290

Post-Impressionism: 80–81

Post offices: 1082. See also specific destinations

Pouilly: 924

Pouilly-en-Auxois: 873, 874

Pray Château: 386, 391

Prehistoric caves: See Cro-Magnon caves

Prehistory Welcome Center (Les Eyzies-de-Tayac): 482, 486

Presqu’île (Lyon): 894, 910–913; eating, 913, 922–923; map, 918–919; sleeping, 917–920

Prince’s Palace (Monaco): 747–748

Printemps (Paris): 105, 117

Printemps de Bourges: 881

Promenade des Anglais (Nice): 689–694, 706; eating, 717; sleeping near, 710–712

Promenade Plantée Park (Paris): 112–113

Pronunciation guide: 1120–1123

Provence: 566–672; cuisine, 574; map, 567; market days, 575; planning tips, 566–568; tours, 569–571; transportation, 568–569. See also specific destinations

Puces de Vanves (Paris): 121

Puces St. Ouen (Paris): 120–121

Puligny-Montrachet: 850–851, 856–858

Puppets of the World Museum (Lyon): 910

Puycelci: 530–531

Puyméras: 653; eating, 656

Puymin: 651

Q

Quai Branly Museum (Paris): 86

Quai de la Bruche (Strasbourg): 983

Quai de l’Horloge (Paris): 66

Quartier Latin (Paris): 60–61, 91, 122

Quéribus: 552

R

Rabanel, Jean-Luc: 604

Rabelais, François: 420, 423

Rail passes: 12, 15, 1083, 1086, 1107

Rail travel: See Train travel

Rance River: cruises, 340–341

Rance River Valley: 340–341

Raphael: 72

Reader feedback: 15

Realism: 77–78

Réattu Museum (Arles): 594–595

Refuge-Grand Hôtel du Montenvers: 799, 818

Refuge-Plan de l’Aiguille: 798, 818, 820

Reims: 987–1016; cuisine, 988–989; eating, 1014–1015; helpful hints, 994; maps, 988–989, 992–993; planning tips, 987, 990; sights/activities, 996–1012; sleeping, 1012–1014; tourist information, 991; tours, 994; transportation, 987–988, 991, 994, 1015–1016

Reims Cathedral: 996–1001

Renoir, Pierre-Auguste: 79, 81–82, 91, 116, 246, 944

Rental properties: See Apartment rentals

Republic Square (Arles): 586

RER (Réseau Express Régionale): 27, 28, 32–33, 175–176, 178, 179, 180, 191, 225, 1086

Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon): 900, 914

Resources from Rick Steves: 1106–1107

Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations

Rhône River: 609, 614–615, 627, 892, 899–900

Rhône Valley: 924–925

Ribeauvillé: 960

Riquewihr: 954, 956, 959, 972, 973–975

Ritz Escoffier Ecole de Gastronomie (Paris): 165

Rivau Château: 435

Riviera: 673–772; art scene, 680; cuisine, 681; helpful hints, 675–676; home base, 673–674; maps, 674, 676; planning tips, 674; transportation, 675–680. See also specific destinations

Rocamadour: 504–511; map, 502

Rocamadour Château: 506, 508

Roc de Chère: 781

Rodin, Auguste: 81, 912; Museum (Paris), 48, 89–90

Roissy-en-France: sleeping, 147

Roman Bridge (Julien): 671

Roman Bridge (Vaison-la-Romaine): 652

Romanèche-Thorins: 925

Roman sites (ancient Romans): 211, 375, 571–574, 671, 731, 867, 1028; Alise Ste-Reine, 866; Arles, 584–585, 585–587, 588, 590–591, 592–594; Carcassonne, 538, 540; La Trophée d’Auguste, 740; Le Trophée des Alpes, 740; Lyon, 905–907; Orange, 643–645; Paris, 58; Pont du Gard, 629, 632–633; Pont Julien, 671; Reims, 1003; Vaison-la-Romaine, 648, 651, 652

Roman theaters: See Théâtre Antique

Roque St-Christophe: 483, 492–493

Rosary, Chapel of the (Vence): 770

Rothéneuf: 355–356

Rouen: 221, 232–250; eating, 249–250; helpful hints, 234–235; map, 236–237; orientation, 233–235; self-guided walk, 235–245; sights/activities, 246–250; sleeping, 248–249; tourist information, 233–234; transportation, 234, 250

Rouen Big Clock: 239–240

Rouen Museum of Fine Arts: 246–247

Rouffignac Cave: 483, 494–496

Roussillon: 666–669

Route de la Champagne (Reims): 1007, 1009–1012; map, 1010

Route des Anciennes Abbayes: 247–248

Route des Bastides Albigeoises: 529–532

Route des Grands Crus: 855–856, 861–864; map, 859

Route du Beaujolais: 924–925

Route du Vin (Alsace): 953–961

Route of the Ancient Abbeys: 247–248

Route of the Bastides: 529–532

Royal Abbey of Fontevraud: 436–437

Rue Cler (Paris): 48, 88; eating, 150–171; maps, 132–133, 154–155; markets, 121, 130; sleeping, 129–137, 129–137

Rue de la Cavalerie (Arles): 583

Rue de la Monnaie (Lyon): 916

Rue de la Paix (Paris): 119

Rue de la Poissonnerie (Nice): 699–700

Rue de la République (Arles): 588–589

Rue de la République (Sarlat): 454

Rue de la Salamandre (Sarlat): 452

Rue des Rosiers (Paris): 110, 163–165

Rue des Teinturiers (Avignon): 618–619, 626

Rue Droite (Nice): 700

Rue du Dr. Fanton (Arles): 590, 603

Rue du Jerzual (Dinan): 338

Rue Masséna (Nice): 706

Rue Montorgueil (Paris): 121

Rue Mouffetard (Paris): 121–122

Rue Nationale (Amboise): 375

Rue Obscure (Villefranche): 723, 726

Rue Royale (Paris): 118

Rue St. François de Paule (Nice): 698

Rue St. Honoré (Paris): 118

Rue Voltaire (Chinon): 420

Russian Cathedral (Nice): 690, 704–705

RV rentals: 1097

Ryes: sleeping, 293–294

S

Sables-d’Or-les-Pins: 353

Sablet: 658

Sacré-Coeur (Paris): 49, 104–105, 114–115

Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes: market, 575

Sainte-Chapelle (Paris): 62–64, 123–124; map, 63

Ste. Catherine Church (Honfleur): 257

Ste. Cécile Cathedral (Albi): 521–524

Ste. Madeleine Basilica (Vézelay): 875–878

Ste-Mère Eglise: 305–306

St. Bénezet Bridge (Avignon): 614–615

St. Catherine’s Tower (Dinan): 338–339

St-Cirq Lapopie: 512–513

St-Cyprien: market, 446

St. Denis Church (Amboise): 375

St-Emilion: 499–501

St. Etienne Cathedral (Bourges): 882–883

St-Geniès: market, 446

St. Georges de Boscherville Abbey: 248

St. Germain-des-Prés church (Paris): 91

St-Jacut-de-la-Mer: 355

St. Jean Cathedral (Lyon): 901, 907

St. Leo IX Chapel (Eguisheim): 963–964

St. Louis Cathedral (Blois): 404

St. Maclou Church (Rouen): 244

St-Malo: 346–357; eating, 351–352; helpful hints, 347; map, 348; sleeping, 350–351; tourist information, 346; transportation, 346–347, 352

St-Malo Ramparts: 349–350

St-Marcellin: eating, 656

St. Martin Church (Colmar): 940

St. Michael’s Chapel (Rocamadour): 509

St. Michael’s Church (Villefranche): 723, 726

St. Michel Church (Roussillon): 667

St-Mihiel: 1026–1027

St. Nazaire Church (Carcassonne): 542

St. Nicholas Church (Blois): 404

St-Paul-de-Vence: 766–768

St. Pierre Chapel (Villefranche): 723

St. Pierre Church (Avignon): 617

St. Réparate Cathedral (Nice): 700–701

St-Romain: 853, 858

St. Sacerdos Cathedral (Sarlat): 451

St. Salvy Church and Cloister (Albi): 527

St. Sauveur Church (Dinan): 339

St. Saveur Church (Rocamadour): 509

St-Suliac: 341

St. Sulpice Church (Fougères): 357

St. Sulpice Church (Paris): 92

St. Trophime Church (Arles): 587–588

St. Vincent Church (Les Baux): 638

Salin de Giraud: 595

Salvador Dalí Theater-Museum (Figueres): 562

Sanctuary of Our Lady of Rocamadour: 508–509

Santons Museum (Les Baux): 639

Sarlat-la-Canéda: 447–461; eating, 459–460; helpful hints, 448, 450; maps, 449, 457; market, 446, 448, 452; sights/activities, 450–454; sleeping, 454–458; tourist information, 447; transportation, 447–448, 460–461

Satie (Erik) Museum (Honfleur): 259–260

Sault: market, 575

Savigny-lès-Beaune: 854–855, 861

Savoie: See Alps; Chamonix

Schweitzer, Albert: 296, 967, 969; Museum (Kaysersberg), 971

Scooters, in Paris: 46–47

Seasons: 13–14

Séguret: 653, 657–658

Segway (Paris): 46

Seine River: 21, 66–67, 233, 247, 261; beaches, in Paris, 66–67; cruises, 41–44, 124, 170–171; picnics, 151

Semur-en-Auxois: 870–872, 875

Sensation Vin (Beaune): 840

Sentier Touristique Piétonnier de Tirepoil: 762–763

Sewers of Paris: 88

Shakespeare and Company (Paris): 25, 59

Shopping: budgeting, 12; hours, 1040; Paris, 103, 116–122; VAT refunds, 1045. See also specific destinations

Sightseeing: budgeting, 12; planning tips, 1046–1047; priorities, 4, 6–7, 12–13; three-week trips, 8–11. See also specific sights and destinations

Sigolsheim: 972

SIM cards: 1077–1079

Skiing, in Chamonix: 810–811

Sleep code: 1051

Sleeping: 1048–1058; air-conditioning, 1053; budgeting, 12; hotel chains, 1055; online reviews, 1054; rates and deals, 1049–1050; reservations, 14, 1058–1059; types of accommodations, 1050–1058. See also specific destinations

Sleeping Beauty castle (Ussé): 435

Smartphones: 15–16, 1076–1079, 1081

Sorbonne (Paris): 61

Sorgue River: 663

Souillac: market, 446

Spain: day trip, 562

Special events: 1110–1111. See also specific destinations

Sports: See Boules; Hiking; Luge; Paragliding; Skiing

Square du Vert-Galant: 151

Stained Glass Center, International (Chartres): 216–217

Stein, Gertrude: 113

Steves, Andy: 47

St. Germaine-des-Prés church (Paris): 171

St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: 732, 735–737

St-Jeannet: 771

Strasbourg: 976–986; eating, 985–986; helpful hints, 979–980; map, 978–979; planning tips, 976; sights/activities, 980–984; sleeping, 984–985; tourist information, 976–977; transportation, 977–978, 986

Strasbourg Archaeological Museum: 982

Strasbourg Cathedral: 980–982

Strasbourg Museum of Fine Arts: 982

Suzette: 660

Switzerland: 775, 794, 812

Sword of Roland: 509

Synagogue, Avignon: 617–618

T

Taittinger (Reims): 1006–1007

Taizé: 890–891

Talloires: 781–782

Tanners’ Quarter (Colmar): 935

Tapisserie de Bayeux: 271–273

Taxes: VAT refunds, 1045

Taxis: Paris, 35–36, 128, 139, 176, 178; tipping, 1044; to/from airports, 176, 178, 179, 180. See also specific destinations

Téléphériques: See Gondolas, in Chamonix

Telephone numbers, useful: 1109–1110

Telephones: 1076–1082; calling chart, 1080; dialing tips, 1078–1079

Temperatures, average monthly: 1117–1118

TGV trains: 15, 185, 1083, 1086–1087, 1090; map, 1084–1085

Thalys Train: 185

Théâtre Antique (Roman Theater): Arles, 585–586; Lyon, 900, 906; Orange, 643–645

Théâtre des Jacobins (Dinan): 334–335

Théâtre du Vieux-Colombier (Paris): 120

Theft alerts: 1039–1040, 1102–1103; Nice, 683; Paris, 24, 32, 84; Versailles, 196

Thiaucourt: 1027

Three Corniches: 730–741

Time zones: 1040

Tintin (comic strip): 412

Tipping: 1044, 1065. See also Cuisine; Markets; and specific destinations

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Paris): 97

Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de: 78, 116; Museum (Albi), 524–526

Tour de France: 1111

Tour de Madeloc: 561–562

Tour Eiffel (Paris): 15, 48, 82–86, 126

Tour guides: 15. See also specific destinations

Tourist information: 1038–1039. See also specific destinations

Tour Montparnasse (Paris): 94–95, 105

Tour Philippe-le-Bel (Villeneuve): 620

Tours: Rick Steves, 1107; student, 47. See also specific destinations

Tours-sur-Marne: 1011

Train into the Alps (Nice): 705–706

Train stations, in Paris: 180–185

Train travel: 1083–1092; budgeting, 11–12; general tips, 1091–1092; glossary of terms, 1086; map, 1084–1085; Paris, 180–186; reservations, 1090–1091; schedules, 1083; three-week trip, 10–11; tickets, 1086–1087, 1090. See also specific destinations

Tranchée des Baïonnettes (Verdun): 1025

Trans Côte d’Azur: 680, 688, 689

Transportation: 1082–1106; budgeting, 10–12; map, 1084–1085. See also Boat cruises; Buses; Car travel; Train travel; and specific destinations

Travel insurance: 15

Travel smarts: 5–7, 10

Travel tips: 1039–1041

Treverien: 340

Trianon Palaces (Versailles): 190–191, 194, 195, 203–206

Trip costs: 10–12

Trocadéro (Paris): 126

Trophée des Alpes: 740–741

Truffles: 118, 444, 445, 453

Tuileries Garden (Paris): 67, 151

Turckheim: 959

U

Uber (Paris): 176

Unicorn tapestries: 49, 91

Unterlinden Museum (Colmar): 941–944

Ussé Château: 435

Utah Beach: 303–307; map, 282–283

Utah Beach Landing Museum: 304–305

Uzès: market, 575

V

Vacqueyras: market, 575

Vaison-la-Romaine: 648–656; eating, 655–656; helpful hints, 650; map, 649; sights/activities, 651–653; sleeping, 653–655; tourist information, 648; transportation, 648–649, 656

Valençay Château: 416

Valle d’Aosta, Italy: 812–813

Vandenesse-en-Auxois: 865

Van der Weyden, Roger: 835–837

Van Gogh, Vincent: 80, 619; in Arles, 576, 581–584, 585, 589–590, 591–592

VAT refunds: 1045

Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Paris): 41–42

Vegetarians: 1065

Vélib’ Bikes (Paris): 37, 40

Vence: 769–772

Venus de Milo: 70

Vercingétorix: 866, 867, 1034

Verdun: 1016–1019; map, 988–989; tourist information, 1016–1017; transportation, 987–988, 1017, 1019

Verdun Battlefields: 1016, 1019–1027; background, 1020–1022; map, 1021; tours, 1020; transportation, 1017, 1019–1020

Verdun Memorial Museum: 1023

Vernon: 220–221, 223

Versailles: 189–208; eating, 207–208; maps, 192–193, 207; orientation, 194–197; planning tips, 191, 194; self-guided tour, 197–206; sleeping, 206–207; transportation, 191

Versailles Château: 48, 189–190, 194, 197–202; history, 200–201; map, 198

Versailles Gardens: 190, 194, 197, 202–203

Versailles Spectacles (Paris): 125

Ver-sur-Mer: sleeping, 293–294

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin (Reims): 1007

Vézelay: 875–878

Viaduc des Arts (Paris): 112–113

Victoire de Samothrace: 71

Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Eguisheim): 958–959

Vienne River: 417, 419–420; canoeing, 417, 424

Vierville-sur-Mer: 298–300

Vieux Bassin (Honfleur): 255–256

Vieux Lyon: 894, 900, 907–910; eating, 921–922; maps, 908, 918–919; sleeping, 920

Vieux Nice: 682, 690, 694–701; eating, 712–714; map, 696–697; sleeping, 710

Vilebrequin (Paris): 120

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild (Cap Ferrat): 734–735

Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane): 497–499

Village Détruit de Fleury (Verdun): 1023–1024

Villa La Leopolda (Villefranche-sur-Mer): 731–732

Villa Masséna (Nice): 691

Villandry: eating, 427, 434–435

Villandry Château: 365, 433–435

Ville Basse (Carcassonne): 533, 536; eating, 549

Ville-Basse (Vaison-la-Romaine): 652

Villedieu: 653; eating, 656; sleeping, 654–655

Villefranche-sur-Mer: 720–730; map, 724–725; orientation, 720–722; transportation, 721, 722

Villefranche-sur-Mer Citadel: 722, 723, 726

Villefranche-sur-Saône: 924, 925

Ville-Haute (Vaison-la-Romaine): 652

Villeneuve Château (Vence): 769

Villeneuve-lès-Avignon: 620

Vineyards: See Wine and vineyards

Visitor information: 1038–1039. See also specific destinations

Vitrac: 463, 464

Volnay: 856

Vosne-Romanée: 862

Vougeot: 862

Vouvray: 382–383

W

Walking: See Hiking

Walt Disney Studios: 224–225

Way of the Cross (Rocamadour): 504, 506, 508

Weather: 13–14, 1117–1118

Western Emerald Coast: 353

WiFi: 1076–1082

Wilde, Oscar: 113

Wine and vineyards: xv–xvi, 1072–1073, 1075; Beaujolais, 924–925; Bordeaux, 499–501; Chinon, 420, 422–424; Collioure, 560; Côtes du Rhône, 652–653, 657–661; Dordogne, 500–501; Languedoc-Roussillon, 517, 560; Loire Valley, 368–369, 382–383, 404, 412, 420, 422–424; Lyon, 893; Normandy, 231–232; Paris, 87, 165; Provence, 569–570, 574; Riviera, 681; savoring tactics, 1072; vocabulary, 1073. See also Alsatian wines; Burgundy wines; Champagne

Wine Road (Alsace): See Route du Vin

Winged Victory of Samothrace: 71

World War I: 397, 886, 969, 1032; Reims, 1003; Verdun, 1016, 1019–1027; Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial (Eguisheim), 958–959

World War II: 89, 110–111, 267, 959, 969, 972, 1032; Deportation Memorial (Paris), 58–59; Holocaust Memorial (Paris), 110–111; Museum of the Surrender (Reims), 996, 1004; Normandy Memorial Museum (Bayeux), 275–276; Resistance and Deportation History Center (Lyon), 900, 914; Village des Martyrs (Oradour-sur-Glane), 497–499. See also D–Day beaches

WSA Europe: 47

Y

Yachts (Antibes): 758

Yves Brayer Museum (Les Baux): 638

Z

Zellenberg: 960

ZooParc de Beauval (Amboise): 383