Northeastern Hungary

Hungary is mainly flat, though here in the northeastern part of the country, the foothills of the Carpathians begin. The region is known for its forested hiking trails, traditional folk culture and hilltop castle ruins. It's also know for its superb wine. The region capital of Eger makes for an excellent base to explore and taste the grape.

Eger

Pop 56,500

Blessed with beautifully preserved baroque architecture, Eger is a jewellery box of a town with loads to see and do. Explore the bloody history of Turkish occupation and defeat at the hilltop castle, climb an original Ottoman minaret, and then spend time traipsing from cellar to cellar in the Valley of Beautiful Women, tasting the celebrated Eger Bull's Blood (Egri Bikavér) and other local wines.

1Sights & Activities

oEger CastleFORTRESS

(Egri Vár; GOOGLE MAP ; %36-312 744; www.egrivar.hu; Vár köz 1; castle grounds adult/child 800/400Ft, incl museum 1400/700Ft; hexhibits 10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr, castle grounds 8am-8pm May-Aug, to 7pm Apr & Sep, to 6pm Mar & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb)

Climb up cobbled Vár köz from Dózsa György tér to reach Eger Castle, erected in the 13th century after the Mongol invasion. Models and drawings in the István Dobó Museum, housed in the former Bishop’s Palace (1470), painlessly explain the history of the castle. The Eger Art Gallery on the northwestern side of the courtyard has works by Canaletto and Ceruti. Beneath the castle are casemates hewn from solid rock, which can be visited.

MinaretISLAMIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %06 70 202 4353; www.minareteger.hu; Knézich Károly utca; admission 300Ft; h10am-6pm daily Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm daily Oct, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

This 40m-high minaret, topped incongruously with a cross, is one of the few reminders of the Ottoman occupation of Eger. Nonclaustrophobes can brave the 97 narrow spiral steps to the top for the awesome views.

oValley of the Beautiful WomenWINE

(Szépasszony-völgy; GOOGLE MAP )

Wine tasting is popular in the wine cellars of this evocatively named valley. Try ruby-red Bull’s Blood or any of the whites: Leányka, Olaszrizling and Hárslevelű from nearby Debrő. The choice of wine cellars can be a bit daunting so walk around and have a look yourself. The valley is a little over 1km southwest across Rte 25 and off Király utca.

4Sleeping

Agria Retur VendégházGUESTHOUSE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %36-416 650; www.returvendeghaz.hu/; Knézich Károly utca 18; s/d/tr 3800/6400/9300Ft; W)

You couldn't find sweeter hosts than the daughter and mother who own this guesthouse near the minaret. Walking up three flights of stairs, you enter a cheery communal kitchen/eating area central to four mansard rooms with fridge. Out the back is a huge garden with tables and a barbecue at your disposal.

Dobó VendégházGUESTHOUSE€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %36-421 407; www.dobovendeghaz.hu; Dobó István utca 19; s 9000-10,500Ft, d 13,500-15,900Ft; W)

Tucked away along one of the old town’s pedestrian streets, just below Eger Castle, this lovely little hotel has seven spic-and-span rooms, some with balconies. Check out the museum-quality Zsolnay porcelain collection in the breakfast room.

5Eating

PalacsintavárCREPERIE€

(Pancake Castle; GOOGLE MAP ; %36-413 980; www.palacsintavar.hu; Dobó István utca 9; mains 1850-2250Ft; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun)

Pop art and a fascinating collection of antique cigarettes still in their packets line the walls in this eclectic eatery. Savoury palacsinták – pancakes, for a better word – are served with an abundance of fresh vegetables and range in flavour from Asian to Mexican. There's a large choice of sweet ones (from 1690Ft) too. Enter from Fazola Henrik utca.

oFő TérHUNGARIAN€€

(Main Square; GOOGLE MAP ; %36-817 482; http://fotercafe.hu; Gerl Matyas utca 2; mains 1300-3400Ft; h10am-10pm)

This restaurant adds a bit of colour to Eger's dining scene, with its chartreuse-and-plum pop-art decor and a glassed-in terrace with a tented roof. The food is Hungarian with a contemporary taste; we loved the grilled smoked-ewe cheese with orange salad (1950Ft) and pork knuckle braised in dark beer (2000Ft).

8Getting There & Away

Up to seven direct trains a day connect to/from Budapest’s Keleti train station (two hours, 120km).

Hungary Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Except during the peak summer season (ie July and most of August), you should have no problem finding accommodation to fit your budget in Hungary.

Hotels run the gamut from luxurious five-star palaces to the run-down old socialist-era hovels that still survive in some towns.

The youth hostel (ifjúsági szállók) scene in Budapest has exploded in the last couple of years. However, in the rest of Hungary quality hostels are a rare breed. Useful websites for online booking include www.hostelworld.com and www.hihostels.hu.

Campsites are plentiful. One of the best resources for finding a campsite in a particular part of the country is en.camping.info; another good website is www.camping.hu.

ACCOMMODATION PRICE RANGES

In this section, the price breakdown for a double room in high season is as follows:

€ less than 15,000Ft

€€ 15,000Ft to 33,500Ft

€€€ more than 33,500Ft

Money

The Hungarian currency is the forint (Ft).

Credit and debit cards can be used almost everywhere and there is usually no minimum-purchase requirement.

Bank ATMs are everywhere and are usually the easiest way to exchange money.

Exchange cash at banks rather than moneychangers.

Tip waiters and bartenders 10% to reward good service.

EATING PRICE RANGES

In this section we've used the following price indicators (for a main meal):

€ less than 3000Ft

€€ 3000Ft to 6500Ft

€€€ more than 6500Ft

Opening Hours

ABanks 8am to 5pm Monday to Thursday, to 4pm Friday

ABars 11am to midnight Sunday to Thursday, to 1am or 2am Friday and Saturday

AClubs 4pm to 2am Sunday to Thursday, to 4am Friday and Saturday

AGrocery stores 7am to 7pm Monday to Friday, to 3pm Saturday

ARestaurants 11am to 11pm

AShops 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, to 1pm Saturday

Public Holidays

ANew Year’s Day 1 January

A1848 Revolution/National Day 15 March

AEaster Monday March/April

AInternational Labour Day 1 May

AWhit Monday May/June

ASt Stephen’s/Constitution Day 20 August

A1956 Remembrance Day/Republic Day 23 October

AAll Saints’ Day 1 November

AChristmas holidays 25 & 26 December

Telephones

All localities in Hungary have a two-digit telephone area code, except for Budapest, which has just a ‘1’.

To make an intercity landline call within Hungary and whenever ringing a mobile telephone, dial the prefix 06, then dial the area code and phone number.

To make an international call from Hungary, dial 00 then the country code, the area code and the number.

The country code for Hungary is 36.

Most North American mobile (cell) phones won't work here. Consider buying a rechargeable SIM chip at mobile-phone shops and newsagents, which cuts the cost of making local calls.

Wi-fi

Almost all hostels and hotels offer internet and/or wi-fi, mostly free but sometimes for a small surcharge. Free wi-fi is also available at major airports, and many restaurants and cafes.

8Getting There & Away

Hungary is well connected with all seven of its neighbours by air, road and rail, though most transport begins or ends its journey in Budapest.

Air

Budapest is the main air gateway to Hungary. International flights land at Terminals 2A and 2B of Ferenc Liszt International Airport on the outskirts of Budapest. Budget carriers use Terminal 2B. Hévíz-Balaton Airport (SOB; %83-200 304; www.hevizairport.com; Repülőtér 1, Sármellék), in season, serves some German destinations, and is located 15km southwest of Keszthely near Lake Balaton.

AMalév Hungarian Airlines, the national carrier, was liquidated due to bankruptcy in 2012.

Land

ABus Crossing the continent by bus is cheapest. Most international buses are run by Eurolines (www.eurolines.hu) and link with its Hungarian associate, Volánbusz.

ATrain Hungarian State Railways, Magyar Államvasutak or MÁV, links up with the European rail network in all directions. Its trains run as far as London (via Munich and Paris), Stockholm (via Hamburg and Copenhagen), Moscow, Rome and Istanbul (via Belgrade). Almost all international trains bound for Hungary arrive and depart from Budapest’s Keleti station; Deli handles trains to Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia.

Water

Hydrofoils to Bratislava and Vienna run by Mahart PassNave ( GOOGLE MAP ; %1-484 4025; www.mahartpassnave.hu; V Belgrád rakpart; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri; j2) from May to late September arrive at and depart from the International Ferry Pier (Nemzetközi hajóállomás; GOOGLE MAP ; %1-318 1223; V Belgrád rakpart; j2).

8Getting Around

Hungary’s domestic transport system is efficient, comprehensive and inexpensive. Towns are covered by a system of frequent buses, trams and trolleybuses. The majority of Hungary’s towns and cities are easily negotiated on foot.

ABus Hungary’s Volánbusz network covers the whole country.

ATrain The national rail operator MÁV offers clean, punctual and relatively comfortable (if not ultra-modern) train services. Budapest is the hub of all the main railway lines, though many secondary lines link provincial cities and towns.

WORTH A TRIP

GEORGIA

From its green valleys spread with vineyards to its old churches and watchtowers perched in fantastic mountain scenery, Georgia (Saqartvelo) is one of the most beautiful countries on earth and a marvellous canvas for walkers, horse riders, cyclists, skiers, rafters and travellers of every kind. Equally special are its proud, high-spirited, cultured people: Georgia claims to be the birthplace of wine, and this is a place where guests are considered blessings and hospitality is the very stuff of life.

Tbilisi, the capital and usual first port of call for visitors, is redolent of an age-old Eurasian crossroads, with its winding lanes, balconied houses, leafy squares and handsome churches, all overlooked by the 17-centuries old Narikala Fortress. Neighbourhoods not far from the centre retain a village feel with narrow streets, small shops and community atmosphere. But this is also a country moving forward in the 21st century, with spectacular contemporary buildings, a minimal crime rate and ever-improving facilities for the visitors who are a growing part of its future.

The Georgian National Tourism Administration (www.georgia.travel) maintains an excellent website in English on tourist attractions and guidelines for visitors.

There are many small or medium-sized, midrange hotels with character in cities and towns around the country, and a handful of super-luxury top-end places, mainly located in big cities like Tbilisi. There are perhaps 50 travellers' hostels around Georgia (the majority in Tbilisi). They provide dormitory beds or bunks, sometimes a few private doubles, and shared bathrooms and kitchens.

Most travellers arrive by air to Tbilisi's international airport (www.tbilisiairport.com), located 15km east of the city centre. Direct flights head to/from more than 40 international destinations spread from Paris to China. There are also a few international bus connections, including daily service to/from Athens, Istanbul and Moscow.

Once in Georgia, marshrutky (minibuses) are the main transport option for moving around the country. Trains are mostly slower and less frequent than road transport.

Romania

Bucharest

Pop 2.1 million

Romania’s capital gets a bad rap, but in fact it's dynamic, energetic and quite fun. It’s where still-unreconstructed communism meets unbridled capitalism; where the soporific forces of the EU meet the passions of the Balkans. While much of the centre is modern and garish, you will find some splendid 17th- and 18th-century Orthodox churches tucked away in quiet corners and graceful art nouveau villas. Communism changed the face of the city for good, and nowhere is this more evident than at the gargantuan Palace of Parliament.

1Sights

Bucharest teems with museums and attractions; all are relatively cheap and many are among the nation’s best. The historic thoroughfare Calea Victoriei makes a nice walk, as it connects the two main squares of the city: Piaţa Victoriei in the north, and Piaţa Revoluţiei in the centre.

Palace of ParliamentHISTORIC BUILDING

(Palatul Parlamentului/Casa Poporului; GOOGLE MAP ; %tour bookings 021-311 3611; http://cic.cdep.ro/en/visiting/visiting-routes; B-dul Naţiunile Unite; complete tour adults/students 45/23 lei, standard adult/students 25/13 lei; h10am-4pm; mIzvor)

The Palace of Parliament is the world’s second-largest building (after the Pentagon) and former dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu’s most infamous creation. Built in 1984 (and still unfinished), the building has more than 3000 rooms and covers 330,000 sq metres. Entry is by guided tour only (book in advance). Bring your passport since they check IDs. Today it houses the parliament.

Stavropoleos ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 4747; www.stavropoleos.ro; Str Stavropoleos 4; h7am-8pm)

The tiny and lovely Stavropoleos Church, which dates from 1724, perches a bit oddly a block over from some of Bucharest's craziest Old Town carousing. It's one church, though, that will make a lasting impression, with its courtyard filled with tombstones and an ornate wooden interior and carved wooden doors.

Old Princely CourtRUINS

(Palatul Voievodal, Curtea Veche; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Franceză 21-23; admission 3 lei; h10am-6pm)

The Old Princely Court dates to the 15th century, when Bucharest was the capital of the Wallachian principality. The ruins are being slowly excavated but for now you can wander around some of the rooms of the former court. The Vlad Ţepeş statue out the front makes a good photo.

Rebirth MemorialMONUMENT

(Memorialul Renaşterii; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calea Victoriei)

This striking memorial, respected and reviled in equal measure, marks the dramatic events of 1989, when many people died in this area for their opposition to the Ceauşescu regime. The white obelisk piercing a basket-like crown stands on an island in Calea Victoriei. Local wags have dubbed it the 'potato of the revolution'.

Museum of the Romanian PeasantMUSEUM

(Muzeul Tăranului Român; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-317 9661; www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro; Şos Kiseleff 3; adult/child 8/2 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

The collection of peasant bric-a-brac, costumes, icons and partially restored houses make this one of the most popular museums in the city. There’s not much English signage, but little cards in English posted in each room give a flavour of what’s on offer. An 18th-century church stands in the back lot, as does a great gift shop and restaurant.

National Village MuseumMUSEUM

(Muzuel Naţional al Satului; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-317 9103; www.muzeul-satului.ro; Şos Kiseleff 28-30; adult/child 10/5 lei; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm Mon; c)

On the shores of Herăstrău Lake, this museum is a terrific open-air collection of several dozen homesteads, churches, mills and windmills relocated from rural Romania. Built in 1936 by royal decree, it is one of Europe’s oldest open-air museums and a good choice for kids to boot.

SUPERSTITIONS & FAUX PAS

Romanian life has a few unwritten rules. Some of our favourites:

• Don’t sit at the corner of a table (or you’ll never marry).
• If your right hand itches, you’re about to lose some money.
• If you spill your coffee, you’re in for good luck.
• If you spill your salt, you’ll receive bad luck.
• Men shouldn't sit while a woman is standing.
• Men shouldn’t shake hands with gloves on.
• Don’t enter someone’s house with shoes or a hat on.

4Sleeping

Hotels are typically aimed at businesspeople, and prices are higher here than in the rest of the country. Tips for getting discounts include booking in advance or using the hotel’s website.

oLittle Bucharest Old Town HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0786-055 287; www.littlebucharest.ro; Str Smârdan 15; dm 45-60 lei, r 225 lei; niW)

Bucharest's most central hostel is super clean, white walled and well run. Accommodation is over two floors, with dorms ranging from six to 12 beds. Private doubles are also available. The staff is travel-friendly and youth-oriented and can advise on sightseeing and fun. The location is in the middle of Bucharest's lively Old Town.

Midland Youth HostelHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314 5323; www.themidlandhostel.com; Str Biserica Amzei 22; dm 40-60 lei; naiW)

A happening hostel, with an excellent central location not far from Piaţa Romană. Accommodation is in four-, eight- or 12-bed dorms. There’s a common kitchen too.

Rembrandt HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 9315; www.rembrandt.ro; Str Smârdan 11; tourist s/d 180/230 lei, standard 260/300 lei, business 350/380 lei; naiW)

It’s hard to say enough good things about this place. Stylish beyond its three-star rating, this 16-room, Dutch-run hotel faces the landmark National Bank in the historic centre. Rooms come in three categories, tourist, standard and business, with the chief difference size. All rooms have polished wooden floors, timber headboards, and DVD players. Book well in advance.

Central Bucharest

1Sights

1Old Princely CourtC7

2Rebirth MemorialB3

3Stavropoleos ChurchC6

4Sleeping

4Little Bucharest Old Town HostelC6

5Rembrandt HotelC6

5Eating

6Caru' cu BereB6

7Lente & CafeaD2

8SindbadB6

6Drinking & Nightlife

9ControlB4

10Grădina VeronaC1

11La MuseD6

3Entertainment

12Green Hours 22 Jazz ClubA1

13Romanian AthenaeumB2

5Eating

Many restaurants are concentrated in the Old Town, with the rest spread out all around the city. Self-caterers will want to head to the daily market on Piaţa Amzei, with a good selection of fresh fruit and veg.

oCaru’ cu BereROMANIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 7560; www.carucubere.ro; Str Stavropoleos 3-5; mains 20-45 lei; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, 8am-2am Fri & Sat; W)

Despite a decidedly tourist-leaning atmosphere, with peasant-girl hostesses and sporadic traditional song-and-dance numbers, Bucharest’s oldest beer house continues to draw in a strong local crowd. The colourful belle-epoque interior and stained-glass windows dazzle, as does the classic Romanian food. Dinner reservations recommended.

SindbadMIDDLE EASTERN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-317 7788; www.restaurantsindbad.ro; Str Lipscani 19; mains 20-30 lei; W)

This small Lebanese restaurant may lack a little something in presentation, but it makes up for this with great food, belly-dancing and water pipes. In a word: authentic.

Lente & CafeaINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-310 7424; www.lente.ro; Str Gen Praporgescu 31; mains 25-40 lei; h11.30am-1am; W)

The tomatina, tomato soup served with croutons and yellow cheese, is a classic, but all the entrees are creative, filling and good value. We especially like the 'Anthos' main, which are strips of beef tenderloin flavoured with celery soy sauce and served with basmati rice. The garden terrace is a respite on a hot day.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oGrădina VeronaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0732-003 060; Str Pictor Verona 13-15; h9am-1am; W)

A garden oasis hidden behind the Cărtureşti bookshop, serving standard-issue but excellent espresso drinks and some of the wackiest iced-tea infusions ever concocted in Romania, such as peony flower, mango and lime (it’s not bad).

ControlCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0733-927 861; www.control-club.ro; Str Constantin Mille 4; h6pm-4am; W)

This is a favorite among club-goers who like alternative, indie and garage sounds. Hosts both live acts and DJs, depending on the night.

La MuseCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0734-000 236; www.lamuse.ro; Str Lipscani 53; h9am-3am Sun-Wed, to 6am Thu-Sat; W)

Just about anything goes at this popular Old Town dance club. Try to arrive early, around 11pm, since it can get crowded later. La Muse draws everyone from university students to young professionals in their 20s and 30s. Everyone looks great.

3Entertainment

Green Hours 22 Jazz ClubJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %concerts 0788-452 485; www.greenhours.ro; Calea Victoriei 120; h6pm-2am)

This old-school basement jazz club runs a lively program of jazz nights through the week and hosts an international jazz fest in May/June. Check the website for the schedule during your trip and try to book in advance.

Bucharest National Opera HouseOPERA

(Opera Naţională Bucureşti; GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 021-310 2661; www.operanb.ro; B-dul Mihail Kogălniceanu 70-72; tickets 10-70 lei; hbox office 9am-1pm & 3-7pm)

The city's premier venue for classical opera and ballet. Buy tickets online or at the venue box office.

Romanian AthenaeumCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Ateneul Roman; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 021-315 6875; www.fge.org.ro; Str Franklin 1-3; tickets 15-65 lei; hbox office noon-7pm Tue-Fri, 4-7pm Sat, 10-11am Sun)

The historic Athenaeum is home to the respected George Enescu Philharmonic and offers a wide array of classical-music concerts from September to May as well as a number of one-off musical shows and spectacles throughout the year. Buy tickets at the venue box office.

8Getting There & Away

Bucharest is Romania's main travel gateway.

Air

All international and domestic flights use Henri Coandă International Airport (often referred to in conversation by its previous name ‘Otopeni’). Henri Coandă is 17km north of Bucharest on the road to Braşov.

Land

ABus It’s possible to get just about anywhere in the country by bus from Bucharest, but figuring out where your bus or maxitaxi departs from can be tricky. Bucharest has several bus stations and they don’t seem to follow any discernible logic. The website Autogari.ro (www.autogari.ro) has an online timetable.

ATrain The central station for most national and all international trains, Gara de Nord ( GOOGLE MAP ; %phone reservations 021-9522; www.cfrcalatori.ro; Piaţa Gara de Nord 1; mGara de Nord) is accessible by metro from the centre of the city. Check the latest train schedules on either www.cfr.ro or the reliable German site www.bahn.de.

8Getting Around

To/from the Airport

ABus Express bus No 783 leaves every 15 minutes between 6am and 11pm (every half-hour at weekends) from Piaţas Unirii and Piaţas Victoriei and points in between. Buy a ticket, valid for one round trip or two people one way, at any RATB bus-ticket booth near a bus stop. The airport is 45 to 60 minutes from the centre, depending on traffic.

ATrain There’s a regular shuttle train service (35 minutes) from the main station, Gara de Nord, to Henri Coandă International Airport. The trains leave hourly at 10 minutes past the hour, starting at 8.10am and continuing until 7.10pm.

ATaxi A reputable taxi should cover the distance from the centre to Henri Coandă International Airport for no more than 50 lei. Order a taxi from machines standing in the arrivals hall. You'll receive an order ticket stamped with the number of the taxi.

Public Transport

Bucharest's public transport system of metros, buses, trams and trolleybuses is operated by the transport authority RATB (Regia Autonomă de Transport Bucureşti; %info 021-9391; www.ratb.ro). The system runs daily from about 5am to approximately 11.30pm. For buses, trams and trolleybuses, buy tickets at any RATB street kiosk, marked ‘casa de bilete’, located at major stops and public squares.

Transylvania

The northwestern Romanian province of Transylvania conjures a vivid landscape of mountains, castles, fortified churches and a wicked, sharp-fanged nobleman of a certain ilk. A melange of architecture and chic sidewalk cafes punctuate the towns of Braşov and Sighişoara, while many of Transylvania’s Saxon villages are dotted with fortified churches that date back half a millennium.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE SKINNY ON DRACULA

Transylvania is best known as the alleged stomping ground of one bloodthirsty count named Dracula.

But there are two things worth pointing out, that might come as a surprise. The first is that Dracula is real (well, sort of). The second is that he did not actually spend much time in Transylvania.

Bram Stoker’s 1897 vampire novel was inspired by centuries-old superstition and the real-life exploits of Vlad Dracula. Known by his murderous moniker, Vlad Ţepeş (the Impaler), the 15th-century nobleman was said to have skewered up to 80,000 enemies on long spikes.

Though he was reputedly born in the Transylvanian town of Sighişoara, the real Dracula's exploits took place further to the south, across the Carpathians, in the Romanian region of Wallachia.

Despite Dracula's wicked ways, particularly for fending off the invading Ottomon Turks, he is considered a hero in Transylvania and throughout Romania -- so not everyone is thrilled with the count's bloodsucking reputation.

Braşov

Pop 274,400

Legend has it the Pied Piper reemerged from Hamelin in Braşov, and indeed there's something whimsically enchanting about the city, with its fairy-tale turrets and cobbled streets. Dramatically overlooked by Mt Tâmpa, with trees sporting a russet-gold coat (and cocky Hollywood-style sign), this is a remarkably relaxed city.

Braşov

1Sights

1Black ChurchB3

2Piaţa SfatuluiB3

4Sleeping

3Casa ReimsD1

4Rolling Stone HostelA6

5Eating

5Bistro de l'ArteC2

6SergianaB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

7Deane's Irish Pub & GrillC2

8Festival 39C2

1Sights

Piaţa SfatuluiSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This wide square, chock with cafes, was once the heart of medieval Braşov. In the centre stands the 1420 Council House (Casa Sfatului), topped by the Trumpeter's Tower, in which town councillors, known as centurions, would meet. These days at midday, traditionally costumed musicians appear from the top of the tower like figures in a Swiss clock.

Black ChurchCHURCH

(Biserica Neagră; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-511 824; www.honterusgemeinde.ro; Curtea Johannes Honterus 2; adult/child 9/6 lei; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat, noon-7pm Sun)

Braşov’s main landmark, the Black Church is the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul, and is still used by German Lutherans today. Built between 1383 and 1480, it was named for its appearance after a fire in 1689. The original statues from the exterior of the apse are now inside.

Mt TâmpaMOUNTAIN

(Telecabina Tampa; GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-478 657; Aleea Tiberiu Brediceanu; cable car one way/return 10/16 lei; hTue-Sun 9.30am-5pm)

Towering over the city from the east, 940m Mt Tâmpa – with its Hollywood-style sign – was Braşov’s original defensive wall. You can hike up (about an hour) or take a cable car to reach a small viewing platform offering stunning views over the city and the possibility of a light bite or drink at a communist-era dining room.

4Sleeping

Rolling Stone HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-513 965; www.rollingstone.ro; Str Piatra Mare 2a; dm 40 lei, r from 120 lei; niW)

Run by helpful sisters with unlimited reserves of energy, super-friendly Stone attracts a cosmo stew of travellers. Dorms are a little crowded, but for the smaller one downstairs. The private double room (without bathroom) has couches and armoire. You'll be given a map and bags of info on arrival. Personal lockers, organised tours and basic breakfast.

oCasa ReimsBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0368-467 325; www.casareims.ro; Str Castelului 85; s/d 200/250 lei; pnaW)

High-end mom-and-pop boutique with glamour touches like quality linens, flower-print spreads and hardwood floors. You'll get an enthusiastic welcome at the reception desk and a hearty home-cooked breakfast. There's a big enclosed parking lot for drivers and the pedestrian centre is five minutes away on foot. Recommended.

5Eating

oBistro de l’ArteBISTRO€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720-535 566; www.bistrodelarte.ro; Str Piaţa Enescu 11; mains 15-35 lei; h9am-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun; W)

Tucked down a cobbled street straight out of a folk tale, this joint has decidedly boho genes with walls dotted with local artists' work. Gazpacho soup, shrimps and tomato gratin, snails... or just a croque monsieur. Perfect for nursing a cappuccino and working on your laptop.

SergianaROMANIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-419 775; http://sergianagrup.ro; Str Mureşenilor 28; mains 25-40 lei; h11am-11pm)

Authentically Saxon, this subterranean carnivore's heaven has two sections: the white room for 'pure' nonsmokers, and the exposed brick vaults for fumeurs. Choose from a menu of venison, stag, boar, pork ribs, sirloin steak, and Transylvanian sour soup with smoked gammon and tarragon (11.50 lei). A hunter's dream.

6Drinking

Festival 39BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-478 664; www.festival39.com; Str Republicii 62; h7am-midnight)

This romantic watering hole is an art-deco dream of stained-glass ceilings, wrought-iron finery, candelabra and leather banquettes, and has a bar long enough to keep an army of barflies content.

Deane's Irish Pub & GrillPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-474 542; Str Republicii 19; h10am-1am Mon-Thu, 10am-3am Fri & Sat, noon-1am Sun)

As if transplanted from Donegal, this subterranean Irish pub with its early-20th-century cloudy mirrored bar, shadowy booths and old-world soundtracks, is a haven for the Guinness-thirsty.

8Information

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-419 078; www.brasovcity.ro; Piaţa Sfatului 30; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri)

Easily spotted in the gold city council building in the centre of the square, the English-speaking staff offer free maps and brochures and track down hotel vacancies and train and bus times.

8Getting There & Away

ABus Maxitaxis and minibuses are the best way to reach places near Braşov, including Bran. Braşov has two main bus stations: Autogara 1 (Bus Station 1; %0268-427 267; www.autogari.ro; B-dul Gării 1), located next to the train station, is the main departure point for bus service to Bucharest (2½ hours); Autogara 2 (Bus Station 2; %0268-426 332; www.autogari.ro; Str Avram Iancu 114), 1km northwest of the train station, sends half-hourly buses marked ‘Moieciu-Bran’ to Bran (40 minutes) from roughly 6am to 11pm.

ATrain The train station is 2km northeast of the centre. There are convenient rail connections to both Bucharest (2½ hours) and Sighişoara (2½ hours). International train services include daily trains to Budapest (14 hours) and Vienna (18 hours).

Bran

Just to the southwest of Braşov, the tiny town of Bran once occupied a crucial border post along the Carpathians that separated Transylvania to the north from the lands south of the peaks. Not surprising, then, that such a gargantuan castle would arise here. More surprising is that the castle would develop such a strong association with Vlad Ţepeş (aka Dracula), who by all accounts didn't spend much time here.

1Sights

Bran CastleCASTLE

(%0268-237 700; www.bran-castle.com; Str General Traian Moşoiu 24; adult/student 35/20 lei; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun & noon-6pm Mon May-Sep, 9am-4pm Tue-Sun & noon-4pm Mon Oct-Apr)

The 60m-tall Bran Castle, sometimes mistakenly called 'Dracula's Castle', is spectacular and one of the country's leading attractions. It was built by Saxons from Braşov in 1382 to defend Bran pass against the Turks. It may have housed Vlad Ţepeş (aka Dracula) for a few nights on his flight from the Turks in 1462. Castle ticket includes entry to the open-air village museum, with a dozen traditional buildings at the foot of the castle.

4Sleeping

The Guest HousePENSION€

(%0744-306 062; www.guesthouse.ro; Str General Traian Moşoiu 7; r from 120-140 lei, tr 150 lei; pnW)

With terrific views of Bran Castle, this guesthouse is clean and family-friendly with a kids' adventure playground and communal lounge and dining room.

8Getting There & Away

Bran is an easy DIY day trip from Braşov. Buses marked ‘Bran-Moieciu’ (one hour) depart every half-hour from Braşov’s Autogara 2. Return buses to Braşov leave Bran every half-hour from roughly 7am to 6pm in winter, and 7am to 10pm in summer.

WORTH A TRIP

FORTIFIED SAXON CHURCHES

The rolling hills stretching to the north and west of Braşov are filled with fortified churches and villages that can easily feel lost in centuries past; especially when you see a horse and cart rattle past laden with milk churns, or a shepherd ushering his flock across your path. Bus service is practically nonexistent; visitors come by hire car, taxi, bike or tour bus.

A couple of highlights get nearly all the visits, notably the fortified church at Biertan and the atmospheric Saxon village of Viscri. Much of the restoration in the area has been carried out by the Mihai Eminescu Trust, of which Britain's Prince Charles is a major driving force, along with author William Blacker (Along The Enchanted Way).

Sighişoara

Pop 26,400

From the moment you enter its fortified walls, wending your way along cobblestones to its centrepiece square, Sighişoara burns itself into your memory. It's like stepping into a kid's fairy tale, the narrow streets aglow with lustrously coloured 16th-century houses, their gingerbread roofs tumbling down to pretty cafes. Horror fans won't be disappointed either, for this Unesco-protected citadel, the best preserved of its kind in Europe, was the purported birthplace of one of history's great 'monsters' – Vlad Ţepeş (The Impaler).

Sighişoara

1Sights

1Casa DraculaB3

2CitadelA3

3Clock TowerB3

4Sleeping

4Burg HostelB2

Pensiune Cristina & PavelA3

5Eating

Casa DraculaB3

5Central ParkB4

1Sights

CitadelFORTRESS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Most of Sighişoara's sights are clustered in the compact Old Town – the delightful medieval Citadel – perched on a hillock and fortified with a 14th-century wall, to which 14 towers and five artillery bastions were later added. Today the citadel, which is on the Unesco World Heritage list, retains nine of its original towers (named for the guilds in charge of their upkeep) and two bastions.

Clock TowerMUSEUM

(Turnul cu Ceas; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-771 108; Piaţa Muzeului 1; adult/child 12/3 lei; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5.30pm Sat & Sun)

The symbol of the town is this magnificent medieval clock tower, built in the 14th century and expanded 200 years later. It originally housed the town council, but these days it's purely decorative. The clock and figurines were added in the 17th century. The figurines represent different medieval characters, including Peace, Justice and Law, as well as those representing Day and Night.

Casa DraculaHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-771 596; www.casavladdracul.ro; Str Cositorarilor 5; admission 5 lei; h10am-10pm)

Vlad Ţepeş (aka Dracula) was reputedly born in this house in 1431 and lived here until the age of four. It's now a decent restaurant, but for a small admission, the staff will show you Vlad's old room (and give you a little scare). Bubble-burster: the building is indeed centuries old, but has been completely rebuilt since Vlad's days.

4Sleeping

Burg HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-778 489; www.burghostel.ro; Str Bastionului 4-6; dm 40 lei, s/d without bathroom 70/90 lei, with bathroom 80/95 lei; nW)

Basic Burg is ubiquitously wood-walled with a number of cosy rooms – the triples have the most space. Single rooms are adequate. There's a bar downstairs, plus a pleasant courtyard to read in.

Pensiune Cristina & PavelPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-159 667, 0744-119 211; www.pensiuneafaur.ro; Str Cojocarilor 1; dm/s/d 50/95/140 lei; pn)

The floors are so clean at this four-room, one-dorm guesthouse, you could eat your lunch off them. En suite rooms are spearmint white, plus there's an idyllic garden bursting with flowers. The dining/self-catering area is welcoming and, should you need it, there's a laundry service.

5Eating

oCentral ParkINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0365-730 006; www.hotelcentralpark.ro; Piața Hermann Oberth 25; mains 25-40 lei; h11am-11pm; W)

Even if you're not staying at the Central Park hotel, plan a meal here. Sighişoara is short on good restaurants and this is the best around. The food is a mix of Romanian and international dishes, and the carefully selected wine list offers the best domestic labels.

Casa DraculaROMANIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-771 596; www.casavladdracul.ro; Str Cositorarilor 5; mains 30 lei; h11am-11pm; Wc)

Despite the ghoulish Dracula bust mounted to the wall, the house where Vlad was born could have been dealt a worse blow than this atmospheric, wood-panelled restaurant. The menu scuttles from tomato soup to salmon fillet – all with Dracula related references. With a little embellishing from you, your kids will love it.

8Information

Tourist InformationTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-770 415; www.infosighisoara.ro; Str O Goga 8; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat)

Private accommodation service masquerading as a tourist information office. Can help find rooms but don't expect anything else.

8Getting There & Away

ABus The bus station is located next to the train station, about 15 minutes walk north of the citadel. Buses to Braşov (2½ hours) stop at the bus station a couple of times per day.

ATrain About a dozen trains connect Sighişoara with Braşov (two hours), nine of which (none of the slow ones) go on to Bucharest (4½ hours). Five daily trains go to Cluj-Napoca (59 lei, 3½ hours). A few daily trains pass through town on their way to Budapest (nine hours). Buy tickets at the train station.

WORTH A TRIP

THE PAINTED MONASTERIES

The historic monasteries of Romania's northeastern Moldavia province -- dating from the 15th and 16th centuries -- are among the most distinctive in all Christendom.

Unusually, some have frescoes both outside and inside. While the region's prevailing winds and rains mean that north-facing exterior walls have largely lost their five-century-old paintings, frescoes facing other directions have survived – almost a miracle, considering that the plaster is only 5mm thick on some of the most impressive paintings.

While wall paintings and icons are common in Orthodox churches, external frescoes are more rare. Different explanations have been given for this too. Since these fortified monasteries were created when the Turks threatened, large numbers of soldiers would have been garrisoned within; they, like the villagers, were largely illiterate. Further, during services, these small churches could hold few parishioners (generally, the nobility). The edifying outdoor paintings thus helped explain biblical stories and ethical concepts to the masses – useful too, considering that liturgies in Old Church Slavonic were unintelligible to most Romanians.

While several monastery complexes are scattered throughout the province, the most impressive -- and easiest to reach -- churches are those at Humor (Mănăstirea Humorului; Gura Humorului; adult/student 5/2 lei; h8am-7pm summer, to 5pm winter), Moldoviţa (Mânăstirea Moldovița; Vatra Moldoviței; adult/student 5/2 lei; h8am-7pm summer, to 5pm winter) and Voroneţ (Mănăstirea Voroneţ; %0741-612 529; Voroneț, Gura Humorului; adult/child 5/2 lei; h8am-7pm summer, to 4pm winter). The region's biggest city, Suceava, is a good base for exploring the monasteries and is reachable from Bucharest by train.

Romania Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Romania has a wide choice of accommodation options to suit most budgets, including hotels, pensions and private rooms, hostels and camping grounds. Prices across these categories have risen in recent years, but are still generally lower than comparable facilities in Western Europe.

Bucharest is the most expensive place to stay, followed by other large cities. The further away from the cities you go, the cheaper accommodation gets.

Hostels in Romania are not as well developed as in other European countries. Large cities, like Bucharest and Braşov, do have several, good-quality private hostels.

Camping grounds (popas turistic) run the gamut between a handful of nicely maintained properties in scenic areas to grungy affairs, with wooden huts packed unattractively side-by-side like sardines. Rough camping is generally not permitted but in remote areas, the laws are rarely enforced.

ACCOMMODATION PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room with a bathroom, including breakfast:

€ Under 150 lei

€€ 150 to 300 lei

€€€ Over 300 lei

Money

The Romanian currency is the leu (plural: lei), noted in this guide as 'lei' but listed in some banks and currency exchange offices as RON. One leu is divided into 100 bani.

ATMs are everywhere and give 24-hour withdrawals in lei on a variety of international bank cards, including Visa and MasterCard.

The best place to exchange money is at a bank. You'll pay a small commission, but get a decent rate. You can also change money at a private exchange booth (casa de schimb) but be wary of commission charges and always ask how many lei you will receive before handing over your bills.

In restaurants, tip 10% of the bill to reward good service. Leave the tip in the pouch that the bill is delivered in or hand the money directly to the waiter.

EATING PRICE RANGES

We've broken down the eating price ranges into three categories – budget, midrange and top end – depending on the price of an average main-course item.

€ Under 15 lei

€€ 15 to 30 lei

€€€ Over 30 lei

Opening Hours

ABanks 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm Saturday

AMuseums 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Friday, 10am to 4pm Saturday and Sunday

AOffices 8am to 5pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm Saturday

ARestaurants 9am to 11pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 11pm Saturday and Sunday

AShops 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 8am to 2pm Saturday

Public Holidays

ANew Year 1 and 2 January

AOrthodox Easter Monday April/May

ALabour Day 1 May

APentecost May/June, 50 days after Easter Sunday

AAssumption of Mary 15 August

AFeast of St Andrew 30 November

ARomanian National Day 1 December

AChristmas 25 and 26 December

Telephone

All Romanian landline numbers have 10 digits, consisting of a zero, plus a city code and the number.

To reach a Romanian landline from abroad, dial your country's international access code, then 40 (Romanian country code), then the city code (minus the zero) and the six- (or seven-) digit local number.

Mobile phone numbers can be identified by a three-digit prefix starting with 7. All mobile numbers have 10 digits: 0 + three-digit prefix (7xx) + six-digit number.

Romanian mobile (cell) phones use the GSM 900/1800 network, which is the standard throughout much of Europe as well as in Australia and New Zealand, but is not compatible with most mobile phones in North America or Japan.

Local SIM cards can be used in European, Australian and some American phones. Other phones must be set to roaming.

Wi-fi

Romania is well-wired, and the majority of hotels, above a basic pension or guestroom, usually offer some form of internet access, normally wi-fi. Many bars, cafes and restaurants offer free wi-fi for customers.

8Getting There & Away

Romania shares a border with five countries: Bulgaria, Hungary, Moldova, Serbia and Ukraine. Romania is not a member of the EU’s common customs and border area, the Schengen area, so even if you’re entering from an EU member state (Bulgaria or Hungary), you’ll still have to show a passport or valid EU identity card.

Air

Romania has good air connections to Europe and the Middle East.

The majority of international flights to Romania arrive at Bucharest’s Henri Coandă International Airport (OTP/Otopeni; %021-204 1000; www.bucharestairports.ro; Şos Bucureşti-Ploieşti). The airport is home base for Romania's national carrier Tarom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %call centre 021-204 6464, office 021-316 0220; www.tarom.ro; Spl Independenţei 17, City Centre; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat), which has an extensive network of flights around Europe and to the Middle East.

Several other cities have international airports that service mostly domestic flights and those to and from European cities. International airports that serve Transylvania include: Cluj's Avram Iancu International Airport (CLJ; %0264-307 500, 0264-416 702; www.airportcluj.ro; Str Traian Vuia 149-151) and Sibiu International Airport (SBZ; %0269-253 135; www.sibiuairport.ro; Sos Alba Iulia 73).

Land

ABus Long-haul bus services remain a popular way of travelling from Romania to Western Europe as well as to parts of southeastern Europe and Turkey. Eurolines (www.eurolines.ro) and Atlassib ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0748-111 111, call centre 080-10 100 100; www.atlassib.ro; Soseaua Alexandriei 164) both maintain vast networks from cities throughout Europe to destinations all around Romania.

ATrain Romania is integrated into the European rail grid, and there are decent connections to Western Europe and neighbouring countries. Nearly all of these arrive at and depart from Bucharest's main station, Gara de Nord.

8Getting Around

AAir Given the distances and poor state of the roads, flying between cities is a feasible option if time is a concern. Tarom operates a comprehensive network of domestic routes.

ABus A mix of buses and minibuses form the backbone of the national transport system. If you understand how the system works, you can move across the country easily and cheaply. Unfortunately, there's little logic behind how the system is organised. Buses and minibus routes change frequently and changes are communicated by word of mouth. Your best bet is to rely on tourist offices and your hotel to sort out transport options.

ATrain Trains are a slow but reliable way of getting around Romania. The extensive network covers much of the country, including most of the main tourist sights and key destinations. The national rail system is run by Căile Ferate Române (CFR; www.cfr.ro). The CFR website has a handy online timetable (mersul trenurilor).

WORTH A TRIP

MOLDOVA

Sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is as ‘off the beaten track’ as you can get in Europe. Attracting just a fraction of the number of visitors of neighbouring countries (12,000 to 20,000 annually in recent years), it’s a natural destination for travellers who like to plant the flag and visit lands few others have gone to.

But Moldova’s charms run deeper than being merely remote. The country’s wines are some of the best in Europe and a fledgling wine-tourism industry, where you can tour wineries and taste the grape, has taken root. The countryside is delightfully unspoiled and the hospitality of the villagers is authentic.

The capital Chişinău is by far Moldova’s largest and liveliest city and its main transport hub. While the city’s origins date back six centuries to 1420, much of Chişinău was levelled in WWII and a tragic earthquake that struck in 1940. The city was rebuilt in Soviet style from the 1950s onwards, and both the centre and outskirts are dominated by utilitarian (and frankly not very attractive) high-rise buildings. That said, the centre is surprisingly green and peaceful. The capital also has a lively restaurant and cafe scene.

Wine lovers will want to explore one of the country's two amazing wine cellars -- both located within easy day-trip distance from Chişinău. The cave cellars at Cricova (%tours 069 077 734; www.cricova.md; Str Ungureanu 1, Cricova; guided tours per person from 295 lei; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) and Mileştii Mici (%tours 022 382 333; www.milestii-mici.md; Mileştii Mici, Ialoveni; guided 40-min tour per person 250 lei; tasting & lunch per person 600-1000 lei; htours at 10am, 1pm, 3.30pm Mon-Fri) are both tens of kilometers long and house literally millions of bottles of wine.

For something completely different, across the Dniestr River lies the separatist, Russian-speaking region of Transdniestr. Although it's formally still part of Moldova, it's a time-warp kind of place, where the Soviet Union reigns supreme and busts of Lenin line the main boulevards. The region's capital, Tiraspol, is accessible from Chişinău by train.

The hotel situation in Chişinău is improving, but most new properties aim for the high end, leaving budget and midrange travellers with less to choose from. This may be one town where a splurge is in order as the difference in quality from top to bottom is very noticeable. Our top choice remains the Jazz Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %212 626; www.jazz-hotel.md; Str Vlaicu Pârcălab 72; s/d 1250/1800 lei; pnaiW), with bright, clean rooms and an excellent location in the heart of the city.

The easiest way to get to Moldova is by plane. Modern Chişinău International Airport (KIV; %525 111; www.airport.md; Str Aeroportului 80/3), 16km southeast of the city centre, has flights to and from several major European cities.

There is also regular train service to Chişinău from the Romanian capital Bucharest (14 hours, daily) and Moscow (28 to 32 hours, four to five daily) among a handful of other cities.

Once in Moldova, getting around can be tricky. Most locals navigate the country via a dense network of minibuses, as train travel tends to be slow and the rail network not very comprehensive.

Ukraine

Ukraine is in the headlnes a lot these days -- mainly for the tragic border conflicts with Russia in the country's far eastern regions. But Ukraine is a large country and much of the land is peaceful and worth a visit. Indeed, it's one of Europe’s last genuine travel adventures: a poor nation rich in colourful traditions, warm-hearted people and off-the-map experiences. You can admire the historical beauty of the capital Kyiv, sip some of Eastern Europe’s best coffee in sophisticated Lviv, or party on the beach in Odesa -- all in just a few days.

Kyiv

Pop 2.8 million

In the beginning there was Kyiv. Long before Ukraine and Russia came into being, its inhabitants had been already striding up and down the green hills, idling hot afternoons away on the Dnipro River and promenading along Kreshchatyk – then a stream, now the main avenue. These days, the city has a fair few must-sees, mostly related to the glorious Kyivan Rus past, as well as both charming and disturbingly eclectic architecture. But its main asset is the residents – a merry, tongue-in-cheek lot, who act as one when their freedoms are threatened.

Central Kyiv

1Top Sights

1St Michael's MonasteryF3

2St Sophia's CathedralE4

1Sights

3Andriyivsky UzvizE2

4Sleeping

4Bohdan Khmelnitsky BoatelF2

5Dream House HostelE2

6IbisC5

5Eating

7KanapaE2

8MusafirD7

9SpotykachE3

6Drinking & Nightlife

10KaffaE4

11KupidonE5

1Sights

oSt Sophia's CathedralCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; n.sophiakievska.org; pl Sofiyska; grounds/cathedral/bell tower 20/60/30uah; hgrounds 9am-7pm, cathedral 10am-6pm Thu-Tue, to 5pm Wed; mMaydan Nezalezhnosti)

The interior is the most astounding aspect of Kyiv's oldest standing church, St Sophia's Cathedral. Many of the mosaics and frescoes are original, dating back to 1017–31, when the cathedral was built to celebrate Prince Yaroslav's victory in protecting Kyiv from the Pechenegs (Tribal Raiders). While equally attractive, the building's gold domes and 76m-tall wedding-cake bell tower are 18th-century baroque additions.

oSt Michael's MonasteryMONASTERY

(Михайлівський Золотоверхий Монастир | Mykhaylivsky Zolotoverkhy Monastyr MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://www.archangel.kiev.ua/; vul Tryokhsvyatytelska 6; admission free, museum 17uah; h8am-8pm, museum 10am-7pm Tue-Sun; mPoshtova pl)

Looking from St Sophia's past the Bohdan Khmelnytsky statue, it's impossible to ignore the gold-domed blue church at the other end of proyizd Volodymyrsky. This is St Michael's gold-domed monastery, named after Kyiv's patron saint. As the impossibly shiny cupolas imply, this is a fresh (2001) copy of the original St Michael's (1108), which was torn down by the Soviets in 1937.

oKyevo-Pecherska LavraMONASTERY

(Києво-печерська лавра | Caves Monastery GOOGLE MAP ; %406 6375; kplavra.kiev.ua; vul Lavrska 9; grounds 20uah, caves & exhibitions adult/child 60/30uah; h8am-7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar; mArsenalna)

Tourists and Orthodox pilgrims alike flock to the Lavra. It's easy to see why the tourists come. Set on 28 hectares of grassy hills above the Dnipro River, the monastery's tight cluster of gold-domed churches is a feast for the eyes, the hoard of Scythian gold rivals that of the Hermitage in St Petersburg, and the underground labyrinths lined with mummified monks are exotic and intriguing.

oHolodomor MemorialMEMORIAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; vul Ivana Mazepy 15A; mArsenalna)F

At the far end of Vichnoy Slavy Park, centred around a Soviet-era war memorial, you will find a monument from an entirely different epoch. President Viktor Yushchenko's pet project, it is dedicated to almost four million victims of the famine, artificially induced by Stalin's policy of collectivisation in 1932–33.

Andriyivsky UzvizSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mKontraktova pl)

According to legend a man walked up the hill, erected a cross and prophesied: 'A great city will stand on this spot'. That man was the Apostle Andrew, hence the name of Kyiv's quaintest thoroughfare, a steep cobbled street that winds its way up from Kontraktova pl to vul Volodymyrska. Its vague Monparnasse feel has attracted Ukraine's lowbrow rich, but despite gentrification it still retains an atmosphere unique for Kyiv.

4Sleeping

Lodging in the capital can be expensive outside of staying in a hostel. There are plenty of these as well as luxury hotels, but not much in the middle.

Dream House HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %095 703 2979; www.dream-family.com; Andriyivsky uzviz 2D; dm/d from 170/650, d with bathroom from 820uah; aiW; mKontraktova pl)

Kyiv's most happening hostel is this gleaming 100-bed affair superbly located at the bottom of Andriyivsky uzviz. An attached cafe-bar, a basement kitchen, a laundry room, key cards, bike hire and daily events and tours make this a comfortable and engaging base from which to explore the capital.

oBohdan Khmelnitsky BoatelCRUISE BOAT€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %229 1919; vul Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska, moorage 5; r from 450uah; hOct-Apr; mKontraktova pl)

The grand dame of the Dnipro River fleet, this paddle boat built in Budapest in 1954 is now permanently moored in Podil. The dark-wood panelling in its corridors and smallish cabins looks immaculate, but it may be stuffy in the summer heat.

IbisHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %591 2222; www.ibis.com; bul Tarasa Shevchenka 25; r from 1100uah; mUniversytet)

Yes, it is a predictable chain hotel, but it still feels sparklingly new and is about the best value you can get for US$100 a night – and the most comfortable bed, too. Otherwise, it is Ibis – with minimalistically designed, slightly cramped rooms and no minibar.

5Eating

oMusafirCRIMEAN TATAR€

(Мусафир MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %050 930 4164; www.musafir.com.ua; vul Saksahanskoho 57; mains 60-90uah; h10am-10pm; W)

The informal, traditional Musafir opened here in 2015 and specialises in Eastern-influenced Tatar cuisine, with an emphasis on grilled meats, stews, yantyk (pie-like pastry) and Turkish coffee. The latter is served with lumps of sugar that you are expected to put straight in your mouth, rather than in your cup. Gets crowded so best to book in advance.

oKanapaUKRAINIAN€€

(Канапа MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %425 4548; borisov.com.ua/uk/kanapa; Andriyvsky uzviz 19; mains 80-400uah; h9am-11pm; W; mKontraktova pl)

Sneak away from the busy street and you find yourself in what seems like a treehouse – a wooden terrace perched above the dense canopy of trees underneath. A unique place, Kanapa serves gentrified, 21st-century Ukrainian food, largely made from locally sourced farm produce.

oSpotykachUKRAINIAN€€

(Спотикач MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %586 4095; 2k.ua/ua/restaurants/catalog/spotykach; vul Volodymyrska 16; mains 75-300uah; h11am-midnight; W; mZoloti Vorota)

A tribute to the 1960s, this discreetly stylish retro-Soviet cellar will make even a hardened dissident shed a nostalgic tear. The menu is Kremlin banquet, but with a definite Ukrainian twist. Spotykach is vodka-based liquor made with different flavours, from blackcurrant to horseradish, and takes its name from the Russian for 'stumble' – an effect it might cause on the uninitiated.

6Drinking

KaffaCOFFEE

(Каффа MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %270 6505; www.kaffa.ua; prov Tarasa Shevchenka 3; h10am-10pm; mMaydan Nezalezhnosti)

Around for years, Kaffa still serves the most heart-pumping, rich-tasting brew in town. Coffees and teas from all over the world are served in a pot sufficient for two or three punters, in a whitewashed African-inspired interior – all ethnic masks, beads and leather.

KupidonPUB

(Купiдон | Cupid MAP GOOGLE MAP ; vul Pushkinska 1-3/5; h10am-10pm; W; mKhreshchatyk)

Perhaps no longer the hotbed of nationalism it once was, Cupid is still a great Lviv-styled cellar knaypa (pub) abutting a second-hand bookshop. Well-crafted coffees and Ukrainian food are enjoyed at the jumble of table and chairs and there's plenty of reading and drawing material lying around to keep you occupied afterwards.

8Information

Interesny KievTOURIST INFORMATION

(Mysterious Kiev; %364 5112; http://mysteriouskiev.com/)

The website hooks you up with tour guides offering all sorts of walks around the city. It also contains heaps of tourist information about well-known and more unusual sights.

Visit KyivWEBSITE

(www.visitkyiv.com.ua)

Heaps of city-related info.

8Getting There & Away

AAir Most international and domestic flights use Boryspil International Airport (www.kbp.aero), Ukraine's main international gateway, about 30km east of the city.

ABus Kyiv has seven bus terminals, but the most useful for long-distance trips is the Central Bus Station (Tsentralny Avtovokzal; GOOGLE MAP ; pl Moskovska 3), near Demiivska metro station. Long-distance express carriers Autolux (%044 536 0055; www.autolux.ua) and Gunsel (%044 591 9090; www.gunsel.com.ua) run by far the fastest and most comfortable buses in the business. They have frequent trips to most large regional centres; most go via, or continue to, Boryspil International Airport. You can book on their websites, or buy tickets at the Central Bus Station or Boryspil International Airport.

ATrain You can get pretty much everywhere in the country from Kyiv's modern train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %044 503 7005; pl Vokzalna 2; bVokzalna), conveniently located near the centre at Vokzalna metro station. Heading west, the quickest way to Lviv is on the daily express day train (five hours), or there are several regular trains (eight to 13 hours). Heading south, there are night services to Odesa (eight to 12 hours).

8Getting Around

To/from the Airport

Catching a Sky Bus (www.skybus.kiev.ua) is the usual way to reach Boryspil International Airport (45 minutes to one hour). Buses depart from behind Kyiv train station's South Terminal every 15 minutes during the day and half-hourly during the night.

Metro

Although often crowded, Kyiv's metro is clean, efficient and easy to use if you read Cyrillic. It is also the world's deepest, requiring escalator rides of seven to eight minutes. Trains run frequently between around 6am and midnight on all three lines.

WORTH A TRIP

THE BLACK SEA PORT OF ODESA

The Black Sea coastal city of Odesa is a city straight from literature – an energetic, decadent boomtown. Its famous Potemkin Steps sweep down to the Black Sea and Ukraine's biggest commercial port. Behind them, a cosmopolitan cast of characters makes merry among pastel neoclassical buildings lining a geometrical grid of leafy streets.

Immigrants from all over Europe were invited to make their fortune here when Odesa was founded in the late 18th century by Russia's Catherine the Great. These new inhabitants gave Russia's southern window on the world a singular, subversive nature.

As well as becoming a duty-free port, Odesa also attracted ordinary holidaymakers with its sunny climate and sandy beaches. True, the city's appearance grows tattier as you head south past half-empty sanatoriums towards its beachside nightclubs. However, this east–west crossroads makes up for that with sheer panache, and Odesans are known across the old USSR for being stylish, funny, savvy and not easily impressed.

Sooner or later everyone gravitates to the tree-lined pedestrian zone of Bul Prymorsky, with its replica 19th-century gas lamps and park benches. At the boulevard's eastern end, you'll spot the pink-and-white colonnaded City Hall, originally the stock exchange and later the Regional Soviet Headquarters. The cannon here is a war trophy captured from the British during the Crimean War. In the square in front of City Hall is Odesa's most photographed monument, the Pushkin Statue (Памятник Пушкину). The plaque reads 'To Pushkin – from the Citizens of Odesa'.

Continuing along the boulevard, at the top of the Potemkin Steps you'll reach the statue of Duc de Richelieu (Памятник Ришелье), Odesa's first governor, looking like a Roman in a toga.

At the western end of bul Prymorsky stands the semi-derelict Vorontsov Palace (Воронцовский дворец). This was the residence of the city's third governor, built in 1826 in a classical style with interior Arabic detailing. The Greek-style colonnade behind the palace offers brilliant views over Odesa's bustling port.

Lots of people swim at Odesa's crowded beaches in summer, but that's not really the aim of going to the beach here. Rather, it's about strolling disheveled promenades and observing local beach life, Ukrainian style. Be aware that drinking is now banned on and around Odesa's beaches, so don't give the ever-present police an excuse to extract money from you by carrying a cool one.

Odesa is well connected by train to major Ukrainian, Russian and Central European cities. Despite the addition of 'summer trains' on the most popular routes (eg Kyiv and Lviv), seats to/from Odesa fill up fast from June to August, so book ahead.

Frequent Gunsel (www.gunsel.com.ua) buses are the most comfortable and quickest way to travel to Kyiv (six to seven hours, five daily). Its nonstop VIP service has airline-style seats and a stewardess serving free refreshments.

Lviv

Pop 756,000

If you’ve spent time in any other region of Ukraine, Lviv will come as a shock. Mysterious and architecturally lovely, this Unesco World Heritage Site is the country’s least 'Soviet' and exudes much of the same authentic Central European charm as Prague or Kraków. Its quaint cobbles, bean-perfumed coffeehouses and rattling trams are half a continent away from the post-Soviet badlands to the east. It’s also a place where the candle of Ukrainian national identity burns brightest and where Russian is definitely a minority language.

1Sights

Ploshcha RynokSQUARE

( GOOGLE MAP )F

Lviv was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998, and this old market square lies at its heart. The square was progressively rebuilt after a major fire in the early 16th century destroyed the original. The 19th-century Ratusha (Town Hall) stands in the middle of the plaza, with fountains featuring Greek gods at each of its corners. Vista junkies can climb the building's 65m-high neo-Renaissance tower.

Lviv History MuseumMUSEUM

(Львівський історичний музей GOOGLE MAP ; www.lhm.lviv.ua; each branch 10uah; h10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue)

Lviv's main museum is split into three collections dotted around pl Rynok. The best branch is at No 6. Here you can enjoy an Italian-Renaissance inner courtyard and slide around the exquisitely decorated interior in cloth slippers on the woodcut parquetry floor made from 14 kinds of hardwood. It was here on 22 December 1686 that Poland and Russia signed the treaty that partitioned Ukraine. No 2, the Palazzo Bandinelli, covers 19th- and 20th-century history. No 24 expounds on the city's early days.

oLychakiv CemeteryCEMETERY

(Личаківське кладовище GOOGLE MAP ; %032 275 5415; www.lviv-lychakiv.ukrain.travel; vul Pekarska; adult/student 25/15uah; h9am-6pm Oct-Mar, to 9pm Apr-Sep)

Don't leave town until you've seen this amazing cemetery only a short ride on tram 7 from the centre. This is the Père Lachaise of Eastern Europe, with the same sort of overgrown grounds and Gothic aura as the famous Parisian necropolis (but containing less well-known people). Pride of place goes to the grave of revered nationalist poet Ivan Franko.

4Sleeping

Lviv has a shortage of budget accommodation. Expect to pay around twice as much in Lviv as you would elsewhere in western Ukraine. The hostel situation also seems to be in constant flux, with expats setting them up and selling them off with alarming speed.

oOld City HostelHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032 294 9644; www.oldcityhostel.lviv.ua; vul Beryndy 3; dm/d from 170/500uah; iW)

Occupying two floors of an elegantly fading tenement just steps from pl Rynok this expertly run hostel with period features and views of the Shevchenko statue from the wrap-around balcony long since established itself as the city's best. Fluff-free dorms hold four to 16 beds, shower queues are unheard of, sturdy lockers keep your stuff safe and there's a well-endowed kitchen.

Central Square HostelHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %095 225 6654; www.cshostel.com; pl Rynok 5; dm/d from 120/400; W)

This hostel may be small, but its location on pl Rynok puts you in the heart of the Lviv action. Free tea and coffee, a pint-sized kitchen and thief-proof lockers, but just one shower.

Hotel GeorgeHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032 232 6236; www.georgehotel.com.ua; pl Mitskevycha 1; s 480-900uah, d 600-1250uah; W)

The George is a historic hotel that offers decent value. The rooms have been given a modern makeover and have lost some of their antique, old-world charm, though the communal spaces remain elegant and untouched. The English-speaking staff are great and the buffet breakfast is still served in the amazing Oriental-style restaurant.

5Eating

Lviv is more famous for cafes than restaurants, but the food scene has seen dramatic developments in recent years with some weird and wonderful theme restaurants popping up across the city centre.

Puzata KhataCAFE€

(Пузата хата GOOGLE MAP ; %044 391 4699; www.puzatahata.com.ua; vul Sichovykh Striltsiv 12; mains 20-40uah; h8am-11pm)

This super-sized version of Ukraine’s number-one restaurant chain stands out for its classy, Hutsul-themed interior and pure Ukrainian-rock soundtrack.

Dim LehendUKRAINIAN€€

(Дім легенд GOOGLE MAP ; vul Staroyevreyska 48; mains 55-140uah; h11am-2am)

Dedicated to the city of Lviv, there’s nothing dim about the ‘House of Legends’. The five floors contain a library stuffed with Lviv-themed volumes, a room showing live webcam footage of Lviv’s underground river, rooms dedicated to lions and cobblestones, and another featuring the city in sounds. The menu is limited to Ukrainian staples but the coffee and desserts are excellent.

6Drinking

oKabinet CafeCAFE

(Кафе Кабінет GOOGLE MAP ; vul Vynnychenka 12; h10am-11pm)

The jumble of moth-eaten antique chairs and sofas, book-lined walls and dusty parquet floors are no product of a restaurateur's imagination – this place is real. Evoking pre-war (and pre-tourism) Lviv, it would be a shame to sit outside on busy vul Vynnychenka in summer, and in winter this is the perfect spot to curl up with a book, order a warming cup of aromatic Lviv coffee and pretend it's 19-something.

DzygaCAFE

(Дзига GOOGLE MAP ; www.dzyga.com.ua; vul Virmenska 35; h10am-midnight; W)

This cafe-cum-art gallery in the shadow of the Dominican Cathedral has a relaxed vibe. It's particularly popular with bohemian, alternative types, but seems to attract pretty much everyone, really. The summertime outdoor seating is gathered around the city's Monument to the Smile.

8Information

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032 254 6079; www.touristinfo.lviv.ua; pl Rynok 1, Ratusha; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, to 6pm Sun May-Sep, shorter hours Oct-Apr)

Ukraine's best tourist information centre. Branches at the airport and the train station.

8Getting There & Away

AAir The city's Danylo Halytskyi International Airport (%229 8112; www.lwo.aero; vul Lyubinska 168) stands 7km west of the city centre. The main domestic carrier Ukraine International Airlines (www.flyuia.com) offers regulars flights to and from the capital, Kyiv. Internationally, Lviv is attracting an ever-increasing number of flights to European destinations, and flights service cities like Warsaw, Vienna and Munich among others.

ABus The city's Main Bus Station (Holovny Avtovokzal; vul Stryska) is inconveniently located 7km south of the centre, though trolleybus No 5 can bring you back and forth. This is the main on/off spot for significant domestic and nearly all international coach services. Several buses daily ply the roads to Kyiv (nine hours). There are numerous external connections from here to the Czech Republic, Italy, Spain and Germany.

ATrain Lviv's Main Train Station is 2km west of the centre. The quickest way to Kyiv is on the daily Intercity+ express (travel time five hours), though this leaves at a bleary-eyed 5.55am. There are also several regular trains per day, but travel times vary from eight to 13 hours. International trains serve Moscow (25 hours, daily), Bratislava (18 hours, daily) and Minsk (12 hours, daily). There's a handy timetable at www.uz.gov.ua.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE UKRAINIAN TABLE

Ukrainians admit theirs is a cuisine of comfort – full of hearty dishes designed for fierce winters rather than for gastronomic zing. And yet, while it’s suffered from negative stereotypes of Soviet-style cabbage slop and pernicious pickles, Ukrainian cooking isn’t bad. Look especially for borshch (борщ), the national soup made with beetroot, pork fat and herbs. Cabbage rolls (holubtsy голубці) are stuffed with seasoned rice and meat and stewed in a tomato and soured cream sauce. Varenyky (вареники), similar to Polish pierogi, are small, half-moon-shaped dumplings that have more than 50 different traditional vegetarian and meat fillings.

Ukraine Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Accommodation will be your single biggest expense in Ukraine. Rooms are slightly more affordable than they once were due to favourable exchange rates. Big cities like Kyiv and Lviv are the most expensive.

Hotel rates are listed in hryvnya, but you may still come across places where US dollars or euros are quoted.

Hostelling is a well-established sector in Ukraine’s accommodation market, especially in tourist hotspots like Kyiv and Lviv. These websites are useful for finding a hostel: Hostelling Ukraine International (www.hihostels.com.ua) and Hostelworld (www.hostelworld.com).

Most so-called campsites are really former Soviet holiday camps, and slightly more formalised than most Western campers prefer. Facilities are usually poor. Wild camping is tolerated in most areas of the country, but not recommended. Lighting fires in national parks is forbidden.

ACCOMMODATION PRICE RANGES

In this section we've used the following price indicators (double room in high season). Note: As this edition was being researched, price inflation was running at about 30% per year, meaning price information may be out of date.

€ less than 400uah

€€ 400–800uah

€€€ more than 800uah

Money

The Ukrainian currency, the hryvnya, is divided into 100 kopecks. Kopecks have become worthless and prices are often rounded up or down.

As this edition was being researched, price inflation was running at about 30% per year, meaning prices may be out of date.

ATMs are widespread, even in small towns. Credit cards accepted at most hotels and upmarket restaurants. The best way to manage your money is to withdraw with your card.

Exchange money at banks or exchange kiosks (обмін валюти) scattered along main streets and dotting markets. Some upmarket shops have their own exchange offices, as do department stores and train stations. Rates are usually the same.

Tipping is not common in Ukraine.

EATING PRICE RANGES

Price categories used per main course:

€ less than 70uah

€€ 70–180uah

€€€ more than 180uah

Opening Hours

Opening hours are consistent throughout the year with very few seasonal variations. Lunch breaks (usually 1pm to 2pm) are a throwback to Soviet days. Sunday closing is rare.

ABanks 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday

ACafes 9am to 10pm

ARestaurants 11am to 11pm

ABars and Clubs 10pm to 3am

AShops 9am to 9pm Monday to Saturday

ASights 9am to 5pm or 6pm, closed at least one day a week

Public Holidays

The main public holidays in Ukraine are the following:

ANew Year’s Day 1 January

AOrthodox Christmas 7 January

AInternational Women’s Day 8 March

AOrthodox Easter (Paskha) April/May

ALabour Day 1–2 May

AVictory Day (1945) 9 May

AConstitution Day 28 June

AIndependence Day (1991) 24 August

Telephones

Ukraine simplified the way numbers are dialled a few years ago, banishing the confusing system of Soviet-era prefixes and dialling tones. All numbers now start with 0.

Ukraine’s country code is +38.

To call Kyiv from abroad, for example, dial the international access code plus 38, Ukraine's country code, plus 44, Kyiv's city code (dropping the first zero), and the subscriber number. There’s no need to dial the city code if dialling within that city, unless you’re calling from a mobile

To call internationally, dial 0, wait for a second tone, then dial 0 again, followed by the country code, city code and number.

European GSM phones usually work in Ukraine; double-check with your provider before leaving. However, if you’re going to be making a few calls, it’s more economical to get a prepaid SIM card. Top up credit using vouchers available from mobile-phone shops and news kiosks.

Wi-fi

Internet service in Ukraine has improved immensely in recent years, and most hotels as well as upmarket cafes and restaurants offer free wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

The majority of visitors fly to Ukraine – generally to Kyiv. However, low-cost flights to neighbouring countries mean some travellers enter the country overland.

Air

Kyiv's Boryspil International Airport (%044 393 4371; www.kbp.aero), 30km southeast of the city centre, is the country's main international air gateway. The airport is home to Ukraine's major international air carrier: Ukraine International Airlines (www.flyuia.com).

Land

Ukraine shares borders with Russia, Belarus, Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania and Moldova. Both Kyiv and Lviv are well connected by bus and train to destinations around Europe. The easiest points of access are via Poland, Slovakia, Hungary and Moldova.

8Getting Around

AUkraine International Airlines (www.flyuia.com) operates regular flights between Kyiv and Lviv and Odesa as well connecting other large cities around the country.

For overland travel, consult the Kyiv and Lviv sections for details. All trains are operated by Ukrainian Railways (www.uz.gov.ua). Bus.com.ua (www.bus.com.ua) has bus timetables but is hard to navigate.

WORTH A TRIP

BELARUS

Eastern Europe’s outcast, Belarus (Беларус), lies at the edge of the region and seems determined to avoid integration with the rest of the continent at all costs. Taking its lead from the former Soviet Union, rather than the European Union, this little-visited dictatorship may seem like a strange choice for travellers, but its isolation lies at the heart of its appeal.

While the rest of Central and Eastern Europe has charged headlong into capitalism, Belarus allows the chance to visit a Europe with minimal advertising and no litter or graffiti.

Visitors typically begin in the capital Minsk, which suffered tremendous damage in WWII and was built anew in the late 1940s and '50s as a flagship Stalinist city. The result is a remarkably uniform conurbation that is actually strangely attractive in the centre, the 1950s' Stalinist style being far grander and more colourful than the later, drabber Soviet architecture of the 1960s and '70s. The Minsk Tourist Information Centre (www.minsktourism.by) maintains a helpful website on attractions in the city, with information in English.

Another popular destination is the southwestern city of Brest, a relatively prosperous and cosmopolitan border town that looks far more to the neighbouring EU than it does to Minsk. It has plenty of charm and has performed a massive DIY job on itself over the past few years in preparation for its millennial celebrations in 2019.

The city's main sight is the Brest Fortress (Brestskaya krepost; GOOGLE MAP ; pr Masherava), a moving WWII memorial where Soviet troops held out far longer than expected against the Nazi onslaught in the summer and autumn of 1941. But there are also several good museums here, and the impressive Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park (%01631 56 370; www.belarus.by/en/travel/belarus-life/belovezhskaya-pushcha) is nearby.

Outside the large cities, Belarus offers a simple yet pleasing landscape of cornflower fields, thick forests and picturesque villages. The country also is home to Europe’s largest mammal, the zoobr (European bison). While travellers will always be a subject of curiosity, they’ll also be on the receiving end of warm hospitality and a genuine welcome. The official Belarus website (www.belarus.by) is an excellent source of general information.

Most visitors arrive in Belarus by air. The national airline Belavia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %017 220 2555; www.belavia.by; vul Nyamiha 14, Minsk) runs regular flights to and from several major European cities, including London, Paris, Frankfurt and Vienna.

Belarus is also accessible by bus, though long queues at border crossings are not uncommon. The most frequently used bus links are the four-hour trip between Vilnius (Lithuania) and Minsk, and the seven-hour trip between Minsk and Białystok (Poland). Services also run to/from Białystok and Brest. There are slower train connections to Belarus from Russia, Lithuania and Poland.