Hong Kong Island: The Peak & the Northwest

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Hong Kong Island: The Peak & the Northwest

Neighbourhood Top Five

1Peak Tram Taking the white-knuckle ascent to Victoria Peak on the Peak Tram for night views from the summit.

2Sheung Wan Strolling the streets of Sheung Wan to uncover the fascinating history of 19th-century Hong Kong.

3Lan Kwai Fong Bar-hopping your way over the inviting slopes of 'LKF', as it's known to local party animals, the centre of Hong Kong Island's bar scene.

4Luk Yu Tea House Enjoying delicious food under ceiling fans and stained-glass windows at this 1933 Hong Kong staple.

5Soho Trawling through the galleries and boutiques of Soho, the centre of the city's gallery world.

Explore: the Peak & the Northwest

Begin by exploring Sheung Wan’s old neighbourhoods in the morning when the temples and the dried seafood shops get into full swing. Sample some local fare in the area before heading to Hollywood Rd to browse the antique shops and art galleries. If time allows, trek up to the Mid-Levels to check out the museums and religious monuments. Take the Peak Tram in Central to Victoria Peak; wait to see the lights come on in the city. Descend and return to Sheung Wan for dinner, followed by pub crawling in Lan Kwai Fong and Soho.

Local Life

AHang-outs For intellectual banter and a bohemian vibe, head to Club 71, the haunt of activist-artist types.

AShopping Li Yuen St East and West, two alleyways that link Des Voeux Rd Central with Queen’s Rd Central, have a jumble of inexpensive clothing, handbags and jewellery.

AOld Chinese Quarter The area around Tai Ping Shan St is where the old Chinese quarter used to be in the 19th century; you'll see temples and shops specialising in funeral-related services.

Getting There & Away

AEscalator Caine Rd and Robinson Rd (Mid-Levels) via Central–Mid-Levels Escalator.

ABus Lan Kwai Fong and Soho bus 26 along Hollywood Rd links Sheung Wan with Central, Admiralty and Wan Chai; Western District bus 3B from Jardine House in Central and buses 23, 40 and 40M from Admiralty stop along Bonham Rd; the Peak bus 15 from the terminus below Exchange Sq runs along Queen’s Rd East and terminates below the Peak Galleria.

AMinibus Green minibuses 8 and 22 from Central pass Caine Rd (Mid-Levels).

AMTR Central station on the Island and Tsuen Wan MTR lines. Sheung Wan, Sai Ying Pun, HKU and KennedyTown stations on the Island line.

ATram Runs along Des Voeux Rd Central and Des Voeux Rd West. The Peak Tram runs from the lower terminus on Garden Rd to the Peak Tower.

Lonely Planet's Top Tip

Besides partying in Lan Kwai Fong and Soho, don't miss the neighbourhood around Tai Ping Shan St in Sheung Wan. The area is a burgeoning boho haven, with cafes, galleries and boutiques – all quite low-key and tasteful – mushrooming alongside weather-beaten shrines.

Best Places to Eat

A Luk Yu Tea House

A Chachawan

A Dumpling Yuan

A The Boss

Best Places to Drink

A Club 71

A Ping Pong Gintoneria

A Angel's Share Whisky Bar

Best Places to Shop

A Grotto Fine Art

A PMQ

A Gallery of the Pottery Workshop

A G.O.D.

TOP SIGHT

Victoria Peak

MAYTHEE VORAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Standing at 552m, Victoria Peak is the highest point on Hong Kong Island. The Peak is also one of the most visited spots by tourists in Hong Kong, and it’s not hard to see why. Sweeping views of the vibrant metropolis, verdant woods, easy but spectacular walks – all are reachable in just eight minutes from Central.

The best way to reach the Peak is by the 125-year-old gravity-defying Peak Tram. Rising almost vertically above the high-rises nearby, Asia’s oldest funicular clanks its way up the hillside to finish at the Peak Tower. The lower terminus in Central has an interesting gallery that houses a replica of the earliest carriage. The Peak Galleria, adjoining the anvil-shaped Peak Tower, has an admission-free viewing deck, though its harbour views are obscured.

Some 500m to the northwest of the upper terminus, up steep Mt Austin Rd, is the site of the old governor’s summer lodge, which was burned to the ground by Japanese soldiers during WWII. The beautiful gardens remain, however, and have been refurbished with faux-Victorian gazebos and stone pillars. They are open to the public.

The dappled Morning Trail, a 3.5km circuit formed by Harlech Rd on the south, just outside the Peak Lookout, and Lugard Rd on the northern slope, which it runs into, takes about 45 minutes to cover. A further 2km along Peak Rd will lead you to Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Rd. Hatton Rd, reachable by Lugard or Harlech Rds, on the western slope goes all the way down to the University of Hong Kong. The 50km Hong Kong Trail also starts on the Peak.

Don't Miss

APeak Tram

APeak Trails

AVictoria Peak Garden

Practicalities

A維多利亞山頂

A GOOGLE MAP

A%852 2522 0922

Awww.thepeak.com.hk

Ah24hr

AgBus 15 from Central, below Exchange Sq, dPeak Tram Lower Terminus

TOP SIGHT

Man Mo Temple

SASIMOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

One of Hong Kong’s oldest temples, atmospheric Man Mo Temple is dedicated to the god of literature (‘Man’), who's always holding a writing brush, and the god of war (‘Mo’), who wields a sword.

Built in 1847 during the Qing dynasty by wealthy Chinese merchants, it was, besides a place of worship, a court of arbitration for local disputes when trust was thin between the Chinese and the colonialists. Oaths taken at this Taoist temple (often accompanied by the ritual beheading of a rooster) were accepted by the colonial government.

Outside the main entrance are four gilt plaques on poles that used to be carried around at processions. Two describe the gods being worshipped inside, one requests silence and a show of respect within the temple’s grounds, and the last warns menstruating women to keep out of the main hall. Inside the temple are two 19th-century sedan chairs with elaborate carvings, which used to carry the two gods during festivals.

Lending the temple its beguiling and smoky air are rows of large earth-coloured spirals suspended from the roof, like strange fungi in an upside-down garden. These are incense coils burned as offerings by worshippers.

Off to the side is Lit Shing Kung, the ‘saints’ palace’, a place of worship for other Buddhist and Taoist deities. Another hall, Kung Sor (‘Public Meeting Place’), used to serve as a court of justice to settle disputes among the Chinese community before the modern judicial system was introduced. A couplet at the entrance urges those entering to leave their selfish interests and prejudices outside. Fortune-tellers beckon from inside.

Don't Miss

AThe main temple

ALit Shing Kung

AFortune-tellers

Practicalities

A文武廟

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

A%852 2540 0350

A124-126 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan

Ah8am-6pm

Ag26

1Sights

1Lan Kwai Fong & Soho

Graham Street MarketMARKET

(嘉咸街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Graham St, Central; h8am-6pm; g5B)

This busy street market has been providing Central Hong Kong with fruit, veggies, tofu, duck eggs and all variety of fermented beans and sauces for nearly 200 years. Sadly Graham St is in peril, as urban authorities plan to replace it with hotels and apartments in coming years. But for now this is one of the most convenient places to see Hong Kong street life in action, from ancient grannies weighing carrots on rusted scales to market cats sleeping atop beds of pak choy.

oPMQARTS CENTRE

(元創方 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2870 2335; www.pmq.org.hk; S614, Block A, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St, Soho; hbuilding open 7am-11pm, most shops open noon-8pm; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

This new arts hub occupies the modernist buildings and breezy courtyard of the old married police quarters (c 1951). Dozens of small galleries and shops hawk hip handmade jewellery, leather goods, prints, clothing, housewares and more, making the PMQ a terrific place to hunt for non-tacky souvenirs. There are also several restaurants and bakeries, and a large exhibit space with a rotating variety of free shows.

Liangyi MuseumMUSEUM

(兩依博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2806 8280; www.liangyimuseum.com; 181-199 Hollywood Rd, Soho; admission HK$200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

This private three-floor museum houses two exquisite collections – antique Chinese furniture from the Ming and Qing dynasties, and Chinese-inspired European vanities from the 19th and 20th century. The former is one of the world’s best. The 400 pieces of precious huanghuali and zitan furniture are shown in rotating exhibitions that change every six months. The only way to visit is by contacting the museum at least a day in advance to join a small tour.

Central Police StationHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

Built between 1841 and 1919, Hong Kong’s oldest symbol of law and order is this now-disused, police-magistracy-prison complex modelled after London’s Old Bailey. The large compound is currently being redeveloped into an arts hub with cinema, museum and boutique shopping mall.

1Sheung Wan

Man Mo Temple Top Sight

MAP GOOGLE MAP

oPak Sing Ancestral HallTEMPLE

(廣福祠; Kwong Fuk Ancestral Hall MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 42 Tai Ping Shan St, Sheung Wan; h8am-6pm; g26)

In the 19th century, many Chinese who left home in search of better horizons died overseas. As it was the wish of traditional Chinese to be buried in their home towns, this temple was built in 1856 to store corpses awaiting burial in China, and to serve as a public ancestral hall for those who could not afford the expense of bone repatriation. Families of the latter have erected 3000 memorial tablets for their ancestors in a room behind the altar.

Pak Sing Ancestral Hall also functioned as a clinic for Chinese patients refusing treatment by Western doctors. The words pak shing mean 'people' – it was a temple for the people.

Cat StreetAREA

(摩囉街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan; h10am-6pm; g26)

Just north of (and parallel to) Hollywood Rd is Upper Lascar Row, aka ‘Cat Street’, a pedestrian-only lane lined with antique and curio shops and stalls selling found objects, cheap jewellery and newly minted ancient coins. It’s a fun place to trawl through for a trinket or two, but expect most of the memorabilia to be mass-produced fakes.

Figurines for sale, Cat Street | PETE SEAWARD / LONELY PLANET ©

Palace of Moon & Water Kwun Yum TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(水月觀音堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7 Tai Ping Shan St, Sheung Wan; h9am-6pm; g26)

Not to be confused with Kwun Yum Temple nearby, this dimly lit temple honours Kwun Yum of a Thousand Arms. Kwun Yum (aka Guanyin) is the Goddess of Compassion. According to legend, Buddha gave her a thousand arms so she could help everyone who needed it. For a small donation, you can give the small wooden windmill at the entrance a spin; it will presumably change your luck.

Western MarketHISTORIC BUILDING

(西港城 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 6029 2675; 323 Des Voeux Rd Central & New Market St, Sheung Wan; h9am-7pm; jSheung Wan, exit B)

Textile vendors driven off nearby streets in the 1990s moved into this renovated market building (1906) with its red-and-white facade, four-corner towers and other Edwardian features. Now bolts of cloth flank the corridors of the 1st floor. Souvenir shops and the Grand Stage (大舞臺飯店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2815 2311; 2nd fl, Western Market, 323 Des Voeux Rd Central, Sheung Wan; lunch/dinner from HK$120/200; h11.30am-3pm & 7pm-midnight; c; mSheung Wan, exit E2) restaurant occupy the ground and top floors.

Kwun Yum TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(觀音廟 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 34 Tai Ping Shan St, Sheung Wan; h9am-6pm; g26)

Built in 1840, Sheung Wan's oldest temple honours Kwun Yum, the Goddess of Mercy. It's a quaint-looking structure, with a magnificent and intricate brass carving just above the doorway. The temple has been renovated with funky structural additions – orange iron railings and a yellow awning printed with Buddhist swastika symbols.

Tai Sui TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(太歲廟 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Tai Ping Shan St, Sheung Wan; h9am-6pm; g26)

A quirky temple featuring statuettes of deities governing the different Chinese zodiac animals (there are 12 altogether). For under HK$100 and four red packets (of any amount), they will help you burn incense and offer prayers to bless your animal, which will translate into blessings for you.

Man Wa LaneAREA

(文華里 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Man Wa Lane, Sheung Wan; h10am-6pm; mSheung Wan, exit A1)

Kiosks in this alley just east of the Sheung Wan MTR station specialise in name chops: a stone (or wood or jade) seal with the owner's name carved in Chinese on its base. It's combined with Chinese red ink or cinnabar paste to make a seal imprint that can be used in lieu of a handwritten signature. Tell the shop owner your name and he will create an auspicious Chinese version for you.

Leung Chun Woon KeeARTS & CRAFTS

(梁津煥記 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.leungchunwoonkee.com/; 17 Square St, Sheung Wan; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; g26)

Leung Chun Woon Kee (1904) is one of the last remaining burial garment producers in Hong Kong. White, black, brown or blue are the preferred colours for the clothing, but never red. The Chinese believe only those who want revenge on the living depart in red. Sleeves cover the hands completely – exposed hands make beggars of one’s descendants. The outfits also come without pockets to prevent the dead from taking money or luck from their family. Photos are not allowed in the shop.

1Mid-Levels & the Peak

Victoria Peak Top Sight

GOOGLE MAP

Jamia MosqueMOSQUE

(些利街清真寺; Lascar Mosque MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2523 7743; 30 Shelley St, Mid-Levels)

Also called Lascar Mosque, Hong Kong's oldest mosque was erected in 1849. Non-Muslims can only admire the mint green facade from the terrace out the front. Jamia Mosque is accessible from the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator.

Central–Mid-Levels EscalatorLANDMARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdown 6-10am, up 10.30am-midnight)

The world's longest covered outdoor people-mover zigzags from Central's offices to homes near Conduit Rd. Embark and let the streets unveil themselves – Stanley and Wellington with their glamour and tradition; Gage and Lyndhurst where florists and prostitutes once hawked their wares; Hollywood, Hong Kong's second oldest street; Staunton, whose porcelain shops made way for Soho; then Shelley, named unromantically after an infamous auditor-general.

Peak TowerNOTABLE BUILDING

(凌霄閣 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2849 0668; 128 Peak Rd, Victoria Peak; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat, Sun & public holidays; jPeak Tram)

The anvil-shaped Peak Tower makes a good grandstand for great views of the city and harbour. On Level P1 there’s an outpost of Madame Tussauds, with eerie wax likenesses of international stars and local celebrities. There is an open-air viewing terrace (adult/child $30/15) on Level 5.

Hong Kong Museum of Medical SciencesMUSEUM

(香港醫學博物館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2549 5123; www.hkmms.org.hk; 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels; adult/concession HK$20/10; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; g3B)

This small museum features medical accoutrements, including an old autopsy table and herbal medicine chests, plus a rundown of how Hong Kong coped with the 1894 bubonic plague, and exhibits comparing Chinese and Western medical approaches. Equally interesting is the building, a breezy Edwardian-style, brick-and-tile structure (1905) fronted by bauhinia trees. From the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator exit on Caine Rd, walk west to Ladder St; descend one flight of steps and turn left.

If you take the bus, alight at the Ladder St bus stop on Caine Rd.

Ohel Leah SynagogueSYNAGOGUE

(莉亞堂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2589 2621; www.ohelleah.org; 70 Robinson Rd, Mid-Levels; hby appointment only 10.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, services 7am Mon-Fri, 6pm Mon-Thu; g3B, 23)

This Moorish Romantic temple, completed in 1902, is named after Leah Gubbay Sassoon, the matriarch of a philanthropic Sephardic Jewish family. It's Hong Kong's earliest synagogue. Be sure to bring ID if you plan on visiting the sumptuous interior. Those who keep kosher can call ahead to shop at the Kosher Mart, Hong Kong's only dedicated kosher grocery store.

Dr Sun Yat-Sen MuseumHISTORIC BUILDING

(孫中山紀念館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2367 6373; http://hk.drsunyatsen.museum; 7 Castle Rd, Mid-Levels; adult/concession HK$10/5, Wed free; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; g3B)

The museum, dedicated to the father of modern China, is housed in an Edwardian-style building, which is arguably more interesting than the solemn displays of archival materials. Built in 1914, the mansion belonged to Ho Kom-tong, a tycoon from a Eurasian family. It was converted into a Mormon Church in 1960, and became a museum in 2006. If you're taking the bus, alight at the Hong Kong Baptist Church on Caine Rd.

Hong Kong Cathedral of the Immaculate ConceptionCHURCH

(香港聖母無原罪主教座 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 8212; www.cathedral.catholic.org.hk; 16 Caine Rd, Mid-Levels; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat, mass 9.30am Sun; g23)

This Gothic-revival cathedral was built in 1888 and financed largely by the Portuguese faithful from Macau. If taking the bus, alight at Caritas Centre on Caine Rd.

Peak GalleriaVIEWPOINT

(山頂廣場 GOOGLE MAP ; 118 Peak Rd, Victoria Peak; g15)

The building is designed to withstand winds of up to 270km/h, theoretically more than the maximum velocity of a No 10 typhoon. The only attraction here is the admission-free viewing deck, which is larger than the one in the Peak Tower but doesn't have a good view of the harbour. If taking the bus, alight at the stop between Stubbs Rd & Peak Rd

Madame TussaudsMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2849 6966; www2.madametussauds.com/hong-kong/en/; Peak Rd, Victoria Peak; adult/child HK$250/180; h10am-10pm; g15, jPeak Tram)

Most people go to the Peak for the views or the thrill of ascending Hong Kong's highest point at a preposterous incline on the Peak Tram. But there are some other lures, including this attraction in the Peak Tower, with eerie (and scary) wax likenesses of international stars as well as local celebrities such as Jackie Chan, Andy Lau, Michelle Yeoh, Aaron Kwok and Cecilia Cheung. There are lots of packages available as well. You'll save big if you buy tickets online in advance.

THE PEAK OF THE PEAK

While the commercialised part of Victoria Peak has scrumptious views, it's not truly the highest point of the mountain. To get as high as possible, walk up Austin Rd to Victoria Peak Garden and take the path up the hill towards the control towers.

Just west of Victoria Peak is the 494m High West, a mountain offering tremendous panoramic views with a fraction of the crowds. The only caveat? You have to hike to get here. Take the path from the junction of Hatton, Harlech and Lugard Rds, and prepare for a steep climb. Bring water and decent shoes and expect a one- to 1½-hour round trip.

1Western District

Queen’s Road West Incense ShopsARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Queen's Rd W, Sheung Wan; h8am-7pm; g26)

At 136–150 Queen's Rd West, there are shops selling incense and paper offerings for the dead. The latter are burned to propitiate departed souls and the choice of combustibles is mind-blowing – dim sum, iPad, Rolexes, Viagra tablets and – the latest – solar-powered water heaters. You may buy them as souvenirs, but remember that keeping these offerings meant for the dead (rather than burning them) is supposed to bring bad luck.

University of Hong KongUNIVERSITY

(香港大學 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2859 2111; www.hku.hk; Pok Fu Lam Rd, Pok Fu Lam; g23, 40 from Admiralty)

Established in 1911, HKU is the oldest university in Hong Kong. The Main Building, completed in the Edwardian style in 1912, is a declared monument. Several other early 20th-century buildings on the campus, including the Hung Hing Ying (1919) and Tang Chi Ngong Buildings (1929), are also protected.

The University Museum & Art Gallery is to the left of the university’s Main Building and opposite the start of Hing Hon Rd.

University Museum & Art GalleryMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2241 5500; www.hku.hk/hkumag; Fung Ping Shan Bldg, 94 Bonham Rd, Pok Fu Lam; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun; g23, 40M)F

The University of Hong Kong Museum & Art Gallery houses collections of ceramics and bronzes spanning 5000 years, including exquisite blue-and-white Ming porcelain; decorative mirrors from the Warring States period to the Qing dynasty; and almost 1000 small Nestorian crosses from the Yuan dynasty, the largest such collection in the world. It also hosts temporary exhibitions from around the world – recent favourites include Picasso and Botticelli.

The museum is to the left of the university’s Main Building and opposite the start of Hing Hon Rd.

Sai Ying Pun Community ComplexHISTORIC BUILDING

(西營盤社區綜合大樓 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2540 2812; 2 High St, Western District; h9am-5.30pm; g12M, 13, 14M)

A high-rise imposed on Victorian remains make up this complex that's fondly nicknamed the High Street Haunted House. The grey stone facade and arched verandah, both heritage structures (c 1892), were part of a nurses’ dormitory, then a mental asylum and an execution hall during the Japanese Occupation. Rumours of men bursting into flames, women wailing and decapitated spirits spread in the 20 years the building was abandoned. Fires subsequently swallowed everything, except what you see today.

Western District Community CentreHISTORIC BUILDING

(西區社區中心 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2119 5001; 36A Western St, Western District; h9am-10.30pm; g37A, 90B)

NGO offices and amenity rooms occupy this red-brick Georgian house at the junction of Western St and Third St. The listed building was opened in 1922 as the Tsan Yuk Maternity Hospital to offer obstetrics and gynaelogical services and to train midwives for the British colony.

2Neighbourhood Walk
Hong Kong's Wholesale District

Start Sutherland St stop, Kennedy Town tram

End Sheung Wan MTR station, exit B

Length 1.9km; one hour

Set off from the Sutherland St stop of the Kennedy Town tram. Have a look at (and a sniff of) Des Voeux Rd West’s many 1dried seafood shops piled with all manner of desiccated sea life. Walk south on Sutherland St to Ko Shing St to browse the medieval-sounding goods on offer from the 2herbal-medicine traders.

At the end of Ko Shing St, re-enter Des Voeux Rd West and head northeast. Continue along Connaught Rd West, where you’ll find the attractive colonial building that houses the 3Western Market.

At the corner of Morrison St, walk south past Wing Lok St and Bonham Strand, which are both lined with 4shops selling ginseng root and edible birds’ nests. Then turn right onto Queen’s Rd Central to the 5incense shops selling paper funeral offerings for the dead.

Retrace your steps, and if you're hungry, progress to Queen’s Rd West for a quick Chiu Chow meal at 6Chan Kan Kee. Climb up Possession St, then take a left into Hollywood Rd, before turning right to ascend Pound Lane to where it meets Tai Ping Shan St. Here you’ll see four charming 7temples.

Head southeast down Tai Ping Shan St, then left to descend Upper Station St to the start of Hollywood Rd’s 8antique shops. There’s a vast choice of curios and rare, mostly Chinese, treasures.

Continuing east on Hollywood Rd brings you to 9Man Mo Temple, one of the oldest and most significant temples in the territory.

Take a short hop to the left down Ladder St to Upper Lascar Row, home of the aCat Street Market, which is well stocked with inexpensive Chinese memorabilia. Ladder St brings you back to Queen’s Rd Central. Cross the road and follow Hillier St to Bonham Strand. Sheung Wan MTR station is due north.

5Eating

5Lan Kwai Fong & Soho

oDumpling YuanDUMPLING$

(餃子園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2541 9737; 98 Wellington St, Soho; meals from HK$40; h11am-10.30pm Mon-Sat; v; g40M)

Locals and visitors from the north flock to this little shop for its nine varieties of juicy bundles of heaven, more commonly known as lamb and cumin, pork and chives, egg and tomato or vegetarian dumplings.

oTai Cheong BakeryBAKERY$

(泰昌餅家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 8300 8301; 35 Lyndhurst Tce, Central; pastries from HK$8; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-9pm Sun; g40M)

Tai Cheong was best known for its lighter-than-air beignets (deep-fried dough rolled in sugar; sa yung in Cantonese) until former governor Chris Patten was photographed wolfing down its egg-custard tarts. Since then ‘Fat Patten’ egg tarts have hogged the limelight.

oKau Kee RestaurantNOODLES$

(九記牛腩 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2850 5967; 21 Gough St, Sheung Wan; meals from HK$40; h12.30-7.15pm & 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat; mSheung Wan, exit E2)

You can argue till the noodles go soggy about whether Kau Kee has the best beef brisket in town. Whatever the verdict, the meat – served with toothsome noodles in a fragrant beefy broth – is hard to beat. During the 90 years of the shop's existence, film stars and politicians have joined the queue for a table.

Besides regular brisket, you can order – and many of the locals do – the chewier butterfly brisket (爽腩; song laam), and beef tendon (牛筋; ngau gun) served in a curry sauce.

oLan Fong YuenCAFE$

(蘭芳園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 3895, 852 2854 0731; 2 & 4A Gage St, Soho; meals from HK$60, cover charge HK$20; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat; g5B)

This rickety facade hides an entire cha chaan tang (tea cafe). Lan Fong Yuen (1952) is believed to be the inventor of the ‘pantyhose’ milk tea. Over a thousand cups of the strong and silky brew are sold daily alongside pork-chop buns, tossed noodles and other hasty tasties. Watch staff work their magic while you wait for a table.

Butao RamenJAPANESE$

(豚王 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2530 0600; www.butaoramen.com; 69 Wellington St, Central; ramen from HK$85; h11am-11pm; mCentral, exit D2)

From the line of customers waiting out the front, you have to believe that this street-side joint serves the best ramen in town. Choose from the signature rich Butao (pork) broth, the spicy Red King, the fusion-y Parmesan-enhanced Green King, or the squid inky Black King. You can customise how long the noodles should be cooked and the intensity of the broth. Just put a tick in the right boxes on the order sheet.

Mak’s NoodleNOODLES, CANTONESE$

(麥奀雲吞麵世家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2854 3810; 77 Wellington St, Soho; noodles HK$32-48; h11am-8pm; g40M)

At this legendary shop noodles are made the traditional way with a bamboo pole and served perched on a spoon placed over the bowl so they won’t go soggy. The beef brisket noodles are equally remarkable.

Yat LokCHINESE$

(一樂燒鵝 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2524 3882; 34-38 Stanley St, Soho; meals HK$45-80; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 5.30pm Sun; mCentral, exit D2)

Be prepared to bump elbows with locals at this tiny joint known for its roast goose. Anthony Bourdain gushed over the bird. Foodies prefer it to fowls from pricey ‘goose specialists’. Our favourite cut is the leg, over rice or slippery rice noodles. Order it unchopped and rip it – crispy skin, tender flesh and all!

MotorinoPIZZA$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2801 6881; www.motorinopizza.com; 14 Shelley St, Soho; meals HK$150-380; hnoon-midnight; Wc; mCentral, exit D2)

The buzzing debut outpost of the famed NYC pizzeria puts out charcoal-kissed Neapolitan pies with a bubbly and flavourful crust that will give your jaws a delectable workout. The Brussels sprout and smoked pancetta pizza is especially glorious. Reservations accepted for lunch. There's a second location in Wan Chai.

Sharkie'sHONG KONG$

(鯊仔記 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2530 3232; 8-12 Wo On Lane, Lan Kwai Fong; snacks HK$5-25; h11.30am-6am; mCentral, exit D2)

On your left as you make your way down short Wo On Lane from D'Aiguilar St, Sharkie's sells Hong Kong–style snacks, such as curry fish balls and egg waffles. Like the convenience stores in the neighbourhood, it's earned the reputation of being a 'cougar hot spot' because of its – presumably – young, hungry and male following.

Ser Wong FunCANTONESE$

(蛇王芬 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2543 1032; 30 Cochrane St, Soho; meals HK$70; h11am-10.30pm; mCentral, exit D1)

This snake-soup specialist whips up old Cantonese dishes that are as tantalising as its celebrated broth, and the packed tables attest to it. Many regulars come just for the homemade pork-liver sausage infused with rose wine – perfect over a bowl of immaculate white rice, on a red tablecloth. Booking advised.

Wang FuDUMPLING$

(王府 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2121 8089; 65 Wellington St, Soho; meals HK$40; h11am-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat; g40M)

At this cosy eatery, you'll see visitors from the mainland demolishing plate after plate of dumplings. There are nine delicious varieties (HK$31 to HK$44), as well as hearty noodles and Northern-style appetisers.

Mana! Fast Slow FoodVEGAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2851 1611; www.mana.hk; 92 Wellington St, Soho; meals HK$100-200; h10am-10pm; Wv; mCentral, exit D2)S

A vegan and raw food haven that whips up smoothies, salads and desserts for the professional crowd. Flat breads (available gluten-free) are baked in-shop by the cheerful staff then smothered with organic veggies and Mediterranean dips. Besides tasty, guilt-free food, Mana offers a hippy vibe that makes one forget its physical smallness and not-so-bohemian prices.

Flying PanAMERICAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2140 6333; www.the-flying-pan.com; 9 Old Bailey St, Soho; breakfast combos HK$78-146; h24hr; c; g26)

Fancy eggs Benedict, chocolate waffles, even a full English breakfast for dinner? No problem. Breakfast is served 24/7 in a 1950s-American-diner setting at the Flying Pan.

BêpVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2581 9992; www.bep.hk; 88-90 Wellington St, Soho; mains HK$58-118; hnoon-4.30pm & 6-11pm; mCentral, exit D2)

Offering quick, fresh Vietnamese fare in a stylish setting, Bêp has rapidly become a Soho standby. The pho is solid, but we especially love the tangy goi bo beef salad and the spring rolls. Expect a line at peak hours; it usually moves quickly.

oLuk Yu Tea HouseCANTONESE$$

(陸羽茶室 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2523 5464; 24-26 Stanley St, Lan Kwai Fong; meals HK$300; h7am-10pm, dim sum to 5.30pm; c; mCentral, exit D2)

This gorgeous teahouse (c 1933), known for its masterful cooking and Eastern art deco decor, was the haunt of opera artists, writers and painters (including the creator of one exorbitant ink-and-brush gracing a wall) who came to give recitals and discuss the national fate. The food is old-school Cantonese fare such as sweet-and-sour pork, prawn toast and a variety of dim-sum dumplings and pastries.

oChachawanTHAI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2549 0020; http://chachawan.hk; 206 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan; meals HK$200-450; h12-2.30pm & 6.30pm-midnight; mSheung Wan, exit A2)

Specialising in the spicy cuisine of northeastern Thailand's Isaan region, this hip little spot is always jam-packed and plenty noisy. No curries or pad thai here, just scads of bright, herb-infused, chilli-packed salads (we like the green papaya with pork belly) and grilled fish and meat.

Ho Lee FukHONG KONG$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2810 0860; http://holeefookhk.tumblr.com/; 1-5 Elgin St, Soho; meals HK$250-500; h6-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

As irreverent as its name suggests, this buzzy underground spot does a winkingly modern take on retro Chinatown cuisine. Prawn toasts are served with a dollop of Kewpie mayo and savoury bonito flakes, the char siu is upmarket with Kurobuta pork, and prawn lo mein is spangled with crunchy bits of fried garlic and slicked with shellfish oil. The atmosphere is very see-and-be-seen, despite nightclub-level darkness.

Little BaoASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2194 0202; www.little-bao.com; 66 Staunton St, Sheung Wan; meals HK$200-500; h6-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm & 6-11pm Sat, noon-4pm & 6-10pm Sun; mCentral, exit D2)

A trendy diner that wows with its bao (Chinese buns) – snow-white orbs crammed with juicy meat and slathered with a palette of Asian condiments. The signature pork-belly bao comes with hoisin ketchup, sesame dressing, and a leek and shiso salad. If spot-on flavours and full-on sauces appeal, go early – they don’t take reservations.

Yung Kee RestaurantCANTONESE$$

(鏞記 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 1624; www.yungkee.com.hk; 32-40 Wellington St, Lan Kwai Fong; lunch HK$150-400, dinner from HK$450; h11am-10.30pm; c; mCentral, exit D2)

The roast goose here, made from fowl raised in the restaurant's own farm and roasted in coal-fired ovens, has been the talk of the town since 1942. Celebrities and well-to-dos are regulars at this well-illuminated and welcoming place, and its lunch dim sum is popular with the Central workforce.

oThe BossCANTONESE$$$

(波士廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2155 0552; www.theboss1.com; Basement, 58-62 Queen’s Rd Central, Central; lunch/dinner sets from HK$230/680; h11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun; W; mCentral, exit D2)

Awarded one Michelin star, the Boss is a perfectionist. The flawless service, austere modern decor, and meticulous kitchen point to high expectations being imposed. The old-school Cantonese dishes are impressive, notably the deep-fried chicken pieces with home-fermented shrimp paste, and the baked-crab casserole. Dim sum, made with first-rate ingredients, is available at lunch.

CarboneITALIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2593 2593; http://carbone.com.hk/; 9th fl, LKF Tower, 33 Wydham St, Soho; dinner HK$400-800; hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 6-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

The only foreign outpost of the over-the-top New York Italian-American joint, Carbone makes you feel like Frank Sinatra having dinner in 1963. Walls are panelled in dark wood, chairs are red leather, waiters rock maroon tuxedos, and desserts come on a rolling cart. Retro classics include a very solid Caesar salad with ricotta salata, a bigger-than-your-head veal Parmesan and a huge, satisfying tangle of spaghetti and meatballs.

Sushi KuuJAPANESE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2971 0180; 1st fl, 2-8 Wellington St, Wellington Pl, Lan Kwai Fong; lunch/dinner from HK$200/800; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu & Sun, noon-12.30am Fri & Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

If you order the omakase ('I'll leave it to you’) at this elegant sushi bar, the chef will lavish you with a multicourse meal prepared with the sweetest fruits of the sea available. Though not cheap at HK$1500 per person, it’s excellent value for jet-fresh seafood of this quality. The lunch sets are also much raved about. Bookings essential for weekend dinners.

5Sheung Wan

Chan Kan KeeGUANGDONG$

(陳勤記鹵鵝飯店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2858 0033; 11 Queen’s Rd W, Sheung Wan; meals HK$50; h11am-10pm; g5)

For an authentic Chiu Chow treat, this family-run eatery serves hearty marinated goose, baby oyster omelette and duck soup. It’s jam-packed during lunch hours. Chiu Chow is a city in the northeastern part of Guǎngdōng province, but its cooking is so refined and distinctive that it's often mentioned separately from Cantonese cuisine.

Tim’s KitchenCANTONESE$$

(桃花源 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2543 5919; www.timskitchen.com.hk/; 84-90 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan; lunch HK$130-500, dinner HK$300-1300; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; c; mSheung Wan, exit A2)

This two-floor restaurant is considered one of Hong Kong's best – as evidenced by the Michelin honour and the praises lavished by local gourmets. It serves extraordinarily delicate and subtle Cantonese fare, each dish as spare and elegant as a gem on a clean white plate. Signature items such as the crab claw poached with wintermelon (HK$270) require preordering. The crystal king prawn and braised pomelo skin with shrimp roe should not be missed. Reservations essential.

ABC KitchenEUROPEAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 9278 8227; Shop 7, Queen St Cooked Food Centre, 1 Queen St, Sheung Wan; meals HK$150-400; h7-10.30pm; mSheung Wan, exit B)

Serving elegant European cuisine in the unexpected environs of a local wet market's food court, ABC Kitchen is an experience you won't find elsewhere. And the food's terrific too – the menu changes, but reliable favourites include the mahogany-skinned suckling pig, the house-made risotto and the dessert souffles (pistachio, if you're lucky). Reservations essential; save money by bringing your own wine.

Mrs PoundASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3426 3949; www.mrspound.com; 6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan; meals HK$150-400; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-11pm; mSheung Wan)

On the outside, Mrs Pound looks like a traditional Sheung Wan stamp shop. But press the right stamp in the display window (hint: it glows) and a door swings open to reveal a faux dive bar serving up cheeky twists on Asian street food.

Even if the painfully hip vibe is not your thing, you'll appreciate sriracha-drizzled corn on the cob, fluffy bao filled with Indonesian beef rendang and mac 'n' cheese stuffed with shreds of Singaporean chilli crab. Later on it becomes one of the area's more fun bars. No reservations.

Chom ChomVIETNAMESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2810 0850; www.chomchom.hk; 58-60 Peel St, Soho; meals HK$250-500; h4pm-late Wed-Sun, from 6pm Mon & Tue; W; mCentral, exit D1)

Lively Chom Chom re-creates Vietnamese street food with bold flavours and charcoal grills, which are best washed down with their craft beers on tap. The corner location makes for great people-watching – al fresco by a slope or indoors from a marble-topped bistro table. Pho fans take note: noodles are only served in a (refreshing) roll with beef and peppermint. Expect lines and crowds.

YardbirdJAPANESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2547 9273; www.yardbirdrestaurant.com; 33-35 Bridges St, Sheung Wan; meals HK$300; h6-11.45pm Mon-Sat; g26)

Yardbird is a hipster's ode to the chicken. Every part of the cluck-cluck, from thigh to gizzard, is seasoned, impaled with a stick then grilled, yakitori style. The resulting skewers are flavourful with just the right consistency. The highly popular eatery doesn't take reservations, so sample the sakes in the convivial bar area while you wait for a table.

Aberdeen St SocialMODERN BRITISH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2866 0300; www.aberdeenstreetsocial.hk; Ground fl, PMQ, 25 Aberdeen St, Central; downstairs meals HK$150-300, upstairs meals HK$300-750; h11.30am-midnight; mSheung Wan)

Run by British celebrity chef Jason Atherton, trendy Aberdeen St Social is really two restaurants in one. Downstairs is an all-day cafe where hip Sheung Wan–dwellers eat avocado toast and fancy fish 'n' chips on the patio. Upstairs is elegant, avant-garde dining (think smoked eel with foie gras). Both are very good, but for our money we dig the relaxed ambience of downstairs.

ChairmanCANTONESE$$$

(大班樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2555 2202; www.thechairmangroup.com; 18 Kau U Fong, Sheung Wan; lunch/dinner from HK$200/560; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm; W; mSheung Wan, exit E2)

Understated faux-retro decor and warm service impart a homely feel at this upmarket place serving Cantonese classics with a healthy twist. Ingredients are sourced locally; cured meat and pickles are made at their own farm. The website even has a manifesto! No surprise – almost all the dishes hit all the right notes, from flavour to presentation. Reservations absolutely essential.

Upper Modern BistroMODERN FRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2517 0977; 6-14 Upper Station St, Sheung Wan; lunch HK$180-450, dinner from HK$850; hnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

Bland menu descriptions belie the complexity of flavours and clever Asian touches in the cooking here. Likewise, the ‘bistro’ label falls short of the chic interiors that include a whimsical ceiling overlaid with petal-like ‘eggs’. Michelin-starred Philippe Orrico’s latest take on haute French cuisine is full of surprises. Go with an open mind.

5Mid-Levels & the Peak

Peak LookoutINTERNATIONAL, ASIAN$$

(太平山餐廳 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2849 1000; www.peaklookout.com.hk; 121 Peak Rd, The Peak; lunch/dinner from HK$250/350; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, from 8.30am Sat & Sun; g15, jPeak Tram)

This 60-year-old colonial establishment, with seating in a glassed-in verandah and on an outside terrace, has more character than all the other Peak eateries combined. The food is excellent – especially the Indian and Western selections – as are the views.

5Western District

Ba Yi RestaurantCHINESE$

(巴依餐廳 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2484 9981; 43 Water St, Sai Ying Pun; meals from HK$100; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun; mCentral, exit B, green minibus 55)

In a city where gamey tastes are often tamed to please Cantonese palates, this rustic halal restaurant serving the cuisine of northwestern China's Xinjiang province is a lamb lovers' paradise. Here you can savour mutton in all its glory – grilled, braised, fried or boiled with lashings of spices. Take minibus 55 outside the United Chinese Bank Building (Des Voeux Rd Central) and disembark at St Paul’s College. Bookings essential; specials such as roasted lamb leg require advanced order.

Yuen Kee DessertDESSERTS$

(源記 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2548 8687; 32 Centre St, Sai Ying Pun, Western District; meals from HK$25; hnoon-11.30pm; g101, 104)

This old-timers’ favourite has been whipping up its famous sweet mulberry mistletoe tea with lotus seeds and egg (桑寄蓮子雞蛋茶) since 1855. It pairs well with the eggy sponge cake.

Kwun Kee RestaurantCANTONESE$

(坤記煲仔小菜 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2803 7209; Wo Yick Mansion, 263 Queen’s Rd W, Sai Ying Pun, Western District; meals from HK$80; h11am-2.30pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun; g101)

Hong Kong’s top brass make pilgrimages to this local place for its claypot rice (HK$40 to HK$60, available only at dinner) – a meal-in-one in which rice and toppings such as chicken are cooked in claypots over charcoal stoves until the grains are infused with the juices of the meat and a layer of crackle is formed at the bottom of the pot.

Sun Hing RestaurantDIM SUM$

(新興食家 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2816 0616; 8C Smithfield Rd, Kennedy Town, Western District; meals HK$50; h3am-4pm; g101)

Many a drunken Soho reveller has trudged westward after a long night seeking cheap dim sum, but to no avail. Then just before they pass out, there appears, vision-like, Sun Hing in all its scrumptious glory! They weep. True story, though some say tears are shed over the runny custard bun. Ask the HKU students sharing your table.

Cafe HunanHUNAN$

(書湘門第 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2803 7177; Koon Wah Bldg, 420-424 Queen's Rd W, Sheung Wan; lunch/dinner HK$50/180; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-10pm; mSheung Wan, exit A1)

Honest prices, a neat environment and the culinary genius of young Chef Huang have won Cafe Hunan a well-deserved mention in the Michelin guide. But even before this, discerning foodies had been raving about the earthy dishes prepared with spices from Hunan, a province known for its chillies and Chairman Mao. Try the chilli-spiked fish head, the smoky tofu and the spicy potato strips.

BistronomiqueFRENCH$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2818 8266; Ground fl, 1B Davis St, Kennedy Town, Western District; lunch/dinner from HK$150/400; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun, 6-10pm Mon; g5B, 5X from Central)

High-ceilinged Bistronomique fulfils the market's need for affordable yet expertly made French food. The menu is decidedly rustic and features bone marrow, frogs legs and pig's ears alongside more commonplace ingredients – all cooked in a homey Gallic kind of way. The set lunches are incredibly good value.

6Drinking & Nightlife

6Lan Kwai Fong & Soho

oAngel’s Share Whisky BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2805 8388; www.angelsshare.hk; 2nd fl, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; h3pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mCentral, exit D1)

One of Hong Kong’s best whisky bars, this clubby place has over 100 whiskies from the world over – predominantly Scottish, but also French, Japanese and American. One of these, a 23-year-old Macallan, comes straight out of a large 180L oak barrel placed in the centre of the room. If you’re hungry, there’s a selection of whisky-inspired dishes.

oClub 71BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Basement, 67 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h3pm-2am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun, happy hour 3-9pm; g26, mCentral, exit D1)

This friendly bar with a bohemian vibe is named after a protest march on 1 July 2003. It's a favourite haunt of local artists and activists who come for the beer and jamming sessions. In the garden out the front, revolutionaries plotted to overthrow the Qing dynasty a hundred years ago. Enter from the alley next to 69 Hollywood.

oQuinaryCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2851 3223; www.quinary.hk; 56-58 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h5pm-2am Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

A sleek, moodily lit cocktail bar, Quinary attracts a well-dressed crowd to sip Asian-inspired cocktail creations such as the Quinary Sour (whisky, licorice root, Chinese black sugar), the Oolong Tea Collins (vodka, oolong tea cordial) or the Checkers (vodka, black sesame syrup, vanilla ice cream). Prices are high, making this a good place to start the evening before moving on to cheaper and less elegant environs.

oStocktonCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2565 5268; www.stockton.com.hk; 32 Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; h6pm-late Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

Stockton evokes the ambience of a private club in Victorian London with Chesterfield sofas, dark-wood panelling and the odd candelabra. These are cleverly arranged to form intimate corners that are best for sipping their rum- and whisky-based cocktails with a date. Make a reservation if you're coming after 9pm on a weekend.

From the big iron gate diagonally across the road from the Fringe Club, walk three steps west and turn left into an alleyway. Go to the back and up the stairs to Stockton.

Tai Lung FungCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2572 2886; 1st fl, shop H107, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St, Central; h11am-11pm; mSheung Wan)

Amid the galleries and boutiques of the PMQ building, Tai Lung Fung rocks a retro 1960s Hong Kong vibe, with a tiled bar and vintage public works posters on the walls. An arty crowd sips home-brewed liqueurs in flavours such as osmanthus and pu-er tea, while attacking plates of old-school nibbles including shrimp toast.

GlobePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2543 1941; www.theglobe.com.hk; 45-53 Graham St, Soho; h10am-2am, happy hour 10am-8pm; mCentral, exit D1)

Besides an impressive list of 150 imported beers, including 13 on tap, the Globe serves T8, the first cask-conditioned ale brewed in Hong Kong. Occupying an enviable 370 sq metres, the bar has a huge dining area with long wooden tables and comfortable banquettes. It's also popular for its very decent British pub grub.

T:MEGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2332 6565; www.time-bar.com; 65 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D1)

This small, chic gay bar is located in a residential back alley facing a small park; drinks are a bit on the pricey side but it has happy hour throughout the week. Enter through the alley off Peel St just north of Hollywood Rd.

Kung LeeJUICE

(公利真料竹蔗水 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 3571; 60 Hollywood Rd, Soho; juice from HK$11; h11am-11pm; g26)

This institution in the heart of Soho has been quietly selling herbal teas and fresh sugarcane juice since 1948 – their quality is unchanged, as are the charming vintage tiles, posters and signs.

Dragon-IBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3110 1222; www.dragon-i.com.hk; upper ground fl, the Centrium, 60 Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; hnoon-late, terrace happy hour 3-9pm Mon-Sat; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

This fashionable venue has both an indoor bar and a terrace over Wyndham St filled with caged songbirds. Go after midnight and watch Ukrainian models and Cantopop stars sipping Krug and air kissing, as DJs fill the dance floor with hip hop, R&B and jazz. Go early or dress to kill if you want to be let in.

StudioLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.studioclub.asia; 1st fl, On Hing Bldg, 1 On Hing Tce, Central; h6pm-4am; mCentral, exit D2)

The house jazz band fires up every night at 9pm at Studio, a 1950s-inspired jazz lounge in Lan Kwai Fong. Warm wood walls and dramatic lighting give the open space a glamorous, theatrical vibe. Post-band DJs spin until late, late, late. Cocktails are pricey, but the whisky menu is one of the better ones around.

Varga LoungeLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2104 9697; http://vargaloungehk.com; 36 Staunton St, Soho; h6pm-3am; mCentral D2)

This little jewelbox of a cocktail bar pays homage to pin-up girls of yore, with vintage decor to match: turquoise walls, velvet sofas, leopard-print pillows. Their gimlets are grand, and the vibe is welcoming – a typical crowd is a mix of gay 30- and 40-somethings, hipsters on dates and women having a ladies' nights out.

VolarCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2810 1510; Basement, 38-44 D'Aguilar St, Central; h6pm-6am; mCentral, exit D2)

A staple of the Lan Kwai Fong nightlife scene, this futuristically lit underground (literally) club grinds out the jams until the sun comes up. Expect a sweaty, international crowd of 20-somethings partying HARD.

Tazmania BallroomCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2801 5009; www.tazmaniaballroom.com; 1st fl, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; h5pm-late, happy hour 5-8pm; mCentral, exit D2)

Skipped the gym? This sophisticated cavern whips out ping-pong tables every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday night. The dress code, however, is casual glam, not Chinese national team. You can also shoot pool with bankers at a gold-plated table, join model types for verbal back-and-forth on the balcony, or groove to jazzy house music on the sleek dance floor.

Roundhouse TaproomBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2366 4880; www.roundhouse.com.hk; 62 Peel St, Soho; hnoon-11pm, happy hour noon-8pm; mCentral, exit D1)

This is one of the best places in town to get microbrews on tap – there are 24 from all over the world! Roundhouse is small and brightly lit. If you want more atmosphere, pick your brew from the iPad menu and savour it on the steps just outside the bar. They also serve some of the most authentic Texas-style barbecue this side of the globe.

Central Wine ClubWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2147 3448; www.thecentralwineclub.com; 3rd fl, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; h2pm-2am Mon-Fri, 4pm-2am Sat, happy hour 3-9pm; mCentral, exit D1)

If you're serious about your tipple and don't mind over-the-top modern baroque decor, CWC is a great place to sample fine old-world wines. The bar's iPad wine list features over 500 bottles, in addition to Cognac and whisky. Blues and jazz provide the soundtrack to your evening. Nonmembers are subject to a 15% service charge.

Tivo BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2116 8055; www.aqua.com.hk; 43-55 Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; h6pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to late Fri & Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

Sophisticated Tivo delights with open frontage, an exuberant crowd and aperitivo-style snacks. On the first and third Sunday of the month, lovely drag hostesses take over from 7pm and whip up the action for the Tivo Tea Dance.

Bar 42BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 42 Staunton St, Soho; hhappy hour 4-8pm; mCentral, exit D2)

This cosy lounge with a small courtyard at the back attracts a cool mix of locals and expats. The board games are at the ready to get your brain functioning.

Bar 1911BAR

(逸日會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2810 6681; www.sbs.hk/1911.html; 27 Staunton St, Soho; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat, happy hour 5-9pm; g26)

This small bar with fine details (stained glass, burl-wood bar, ceiling fan) has a 1920s old Hong Kong vibe. The name commemorates the year Dr Sun Yatsen overthrew the Qing monarchy. You'll see a likeness of the man inside the bar. It’s usually a tad less crowded than competitors nearby, which makes for quiet drinking.

TastingsWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2523 6282; www.tastings.hk; Basement, Yuen Yick Bldg, 27 & 29 Wellington St, Lan Kwai Fong; h5pm-2am Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

This bar, on a side street off Wellington, offers 40 wines from ‘enomatic’ wine dispensers that pour, by a few millilitres, a half-glass or a full glass. This allows you to taste rare varietals without bankrupting yourself. You create a tab by handing over your credit card in exchange for a smart card that you use to operate the machines.

Peak Cafe BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2140 6877; www.cafedecogroup.com; 9-13 Shelley St, Soho; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, 9am-2am Sat, 9am-midnight Sun, happy hour 5-8pm; g13, 26, 40M)

This welcoming bar with great cocktails is decorated with the charming fixtures and fittings of the old Peak Cafe from 1947, which was replaced by the Peak Lookout. The cafe comprises two parts, both next to the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator, with a courtyard linking the two. Plant yourself by the window and watch the world go by.

'SECRET' PUBLIC GARDEN

If you want a change of air during your pub crawl, come to the amphitheatre at the end of Wo On Lane in Lan Kwai Fong. An open secret of sorts, it’s the hang-out of young expats who buy smokes and drinks from convenience stores nearby and come to play charades or shoot the breeze. You can do the same – you might might even meet some beautiful strangers. The official name is Lok Hing Lane Park.

6Sheung Wan

Cafe DeadendCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 6716 7005; www.cafedeadend.com; 72 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan; meals HK$100-200; h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun; g23, 40)

In Sheung Wan's leafy 'PoHo' neighbourhood of quiet boutiques and galleries, this tucked-away little cafe is one of the best places in Hong Kong to have a peaceful cup of coffee and read a book.

TeakhaTEAHOUSE

(茶家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2858 9185; http://teakha.com; Shop B, 18 Tai Ping Shan St, Sheung Wan; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; W; g26)

Fancy organic tea concoctions are best enjoyed with the homemade scones in this oasis, just off the main street in the impossibly hip Tai Ping Shan St area. The cute teaware makes a good souvenir.

Three MonkeysPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3151 7771; http://threemonkeys.hk; 151-155 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 2pm-2am Sat, noon-1am Sun; mSheung Wan)

Billing itself as a Japanese gastropub, this friendly two-storey spot has an excellent list of craft sakes and Japanese beers. Large tables make it a good place to come with a group. Start with tasty nibbles such as crab croquettes, edamame and cheese mochi, and stay all night.

Barista JamCOFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2854 2211; www.baristajam.com.hk; Shop D, ground fl, 126-128 Jervois St, Sheung Wan; h8am-6pm Tue-Fri, from 10am Mon & Sat; W; mSheung Wan, exit A2)

Connoisseurs should make the pilgrimage to this grey-walled institution that also sells coffee beans and professional coffee-making equipment.

6Western District

oPing Pong GintoneriaBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 9835 5061; www.pingpong129.com; 135 Second St, Sai Ying Pun; h6-11.30pm; mSai Ying Pun, exit B2)

An unmarked red door leads you downstairs into a cavernous former ping-pong hall, now one of Hong Kong's coolest bars. The drink here is gin – the bar stocks more than 50 types from across the globe, served in a variety of cocktails both classic and creative. Crowds here are artsy, and the decor is even artsier – look out for original work by infamous Hong Kong graffiti artist the King of Kowloon.

3Entertainment

oPeel FrescoJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2540 2046; www.peelfresco.com; 49 Peel St, Soho; h5pm-late Mon-Sat; g13, 26, 40M)

Charming Peel Fresco has live jazz six nights a week, with local and overseas acts performing on a small but spectacular stage next to teetering faux-Renaissance paintings. The action starts around 9.30pm, but get there at 9pm to secure a seat.

Fringe ClubLIVE MUSIC, THEATRE

(藝穗會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %theatre bookings 852 2521 9126, 852 2521 7251; www.hkfringe.com.hk; 2 Lower Albert Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mCentral, exits D1, D2 & G)

The Fringe, housed in a Victorian building (c 1892) that was part of a dairy farm, offers original music in the Dairy several nights a week, with jazz, rock and world music getting the most airplay. The intimate theatres host eclectic local and international performances. The Fringe sits on the border of Lan Kwai Fong.

Sheung Wan Civic CentreTHEATRE, LIVE MUSIC

(上環文娛中心 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %bookings 852 2853 2678, enquiries 852 2853 2689; www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/swcc/; 5th fl, Sheung Wan Municipal Services Bldg, 345 Queen’s Rd Central, Sheung Wan; h9am-11pm, box office 10am-6.30pm; mSheung Wan, exit A2)

This government-run performance venue shares a building with a wet market and cooked food centre. Its year-round program leans towards drama by local theatre troupes – some engagingly experimental – and concerts by independent musicians and bands.

Culture ClubLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2127 7936; www.cultureclub.com.hk; 15 Elgin St, Soho; h2.30-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, tango workshops some Sundays; g26)

Besides the tango milongas that take place here some Sundays, this multipurpose venue is where amateur musicians hold their debut performances. It also features photography exhibitions, and the occasional Chinese music performance such as the blindman nányīn (a vanishing genre of Cantonese music).

TakeOut Comedy ClubCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 6220 4436; www.takeoutcomedy.com; Basement, 34 Elgin St, Soho; g26)

In need of some LOL? Hong Kong's first full-time comedy club, founded by Chinese-American Jameson Gong, has stand-up and improv acts in English, Cantonese and Mandarin. It also hosts visiting comedians from overseas. See website for program.

7Shopping

7Lan Kwai Fong & Soho

oPMQHANDICRAFTS, JEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2870 2335; www.pmq.org.hk; 35 Aberdeen St, Central; hmost shops 11am-7pm)

The modernist building that was once the police married quarters is now one of the best places in Hong Kong to shop for pieces by local designers, jewellery makers and artisans, with dozens of shops and boutiques occupying the old apartments. Top picks include the hip streetwear of Kapok, Hong Kong–themed gifts at HKTDC Design Gallery, industrially inspired jewellery at The Little Finger, and bamboo kitchenware at Bamboa Home.

oG.O.D.GIFTS, HOUSEWARES

(Goods of Desire; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2805 1876; http://god.com.hk/; 48 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h11am-9pm)

Goods of Desire – or G.O.D. – is a cheeky local lifestyle brand, selling housewares, clothes, books and gifts with retro Hong Kong themes. Fun gets include aprons printed with images of Hong Kong's famous neon signs, strings of fairy lights resembling the red lampshades ubiquitous in Hong Kong wet markets, and bed linen with themes like koi fish, vintage Hong Kong mailboxes or double happiness signs.

oGallery of the Pottery WorkshopART, HOMEWARES

(樂天陶社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2525 7949, 852 9842 5889; www.potteryworkshop.com.cn; 3rd fl, Hollywood House, 27-29 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h1-6pm Tue-Sun; g26)

This gallery showcases playful ceramic objects made by local ceramic artists and artisans from the mainland and overseas. The lovely pieces range from crockery to sculptures.

oGrotto Fine ArtART

(嘉圖 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2121 2270; www.grottofineart.com; 2nd fl, 31C-D Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

This exquisite gallery, founded by a scholar in Hong Kong art, is one of very few that represents predominantly local artists. The small but excellent selection of works shown ranges from painting and sculpture to ceramics and mixed media. Prices are reasonable too.

oWattis Fine ArtANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wattis.com.hk; 2nd fl, 20 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; g26)

This upstairs gallery has a great collection of antique maps for sale. The selection of old photographs of Hong Kong and Macau is also impressive. Enter from Old Bailey St.

Honeychurch AntiquesANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2543 2433; 29 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; g26)

This fine shop, run by an American couple for 30-plus years, specialises in antique Chinese furniture, jewellery and English silver. There’s a wide range of stock, with items from the early Chinese dynasties right up to the 20th century.

Arch Angel AntiquesANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2851 6848; 53-55 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; g26)

Though the specialities are ancient porcelain and tombware, Arch Angel packs a lot more into its three floors: it has everything from mah-jong sets and terracotta horses to palatial furniture.

Pearl Lam GalleriesART

(藝術門 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 1428; www.pearllam.com; 601-605 Peddar Bldg, 12 Pedder St, Central; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit H)

This elegant space showcases mainland Chinese, Hong Kong and Asian contemporary art – mostly paintings and sculptures. The owner, Pearl Lam, has been a fervent promoter of Chinese contemporary art and design since the 1990s. She also has galleries in Shanghai and Singapore.

Mountain FolkcraftGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(高山民藝 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://mountainfolkcraft.com; 12 Wo On Lane, Soho; hMon-Sat; mCentral)

This is one of the nicest shops in the city for folk craft. It’s piled with bolts of batik and sarongs, clothing, wood carvings, lacquerware and papercuts made by ethnic minorities in China and other Asian countries. Prices, while not cheap, are not outrageous either.

Lam GalleryANTIQUES

(松心閣 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2554 4666; 61 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

Arguably the best shop in the area for sculptures, this is the largest of several stores owned by the Lam family on Hollywood Rd. Sculpted pieces from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty predominate. Other products include ceramics, bronze, paintings, gold and silverware. Lam is known by collectors and auction dealers worldwide, and offers restoration services.

L Plus HCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2923 2288; www.lplush.com; 17th fl, 11 Stanley St, Soho; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; jCentral, exit D2)

Founded by a group of socially driven entrepreneurs, L Plus H teams up with local designers to create a 100% ‘Designed and Made in Hong Kong’ label. Classic-looking, highly wearable knitwear is its forte.

Fang Fong ProjectsCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 69 Peel St, Lan Kwai Fong; h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, noon-9pm Fri & Sat; g26)

Wu Lai-fan’s very wearable dresses are a clever mix of vintage fabric and 1980s silhouettes. The shop also carries some of her own designs.

FlowBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2964 9483, 852 9278 5664; www.flowbooks.net; 7th fl, 1A Wing On Bldg, 38 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; hnoon-7pm; g26)

A sprawling jumble of secondhand English titles covers almost every inch of Flow. You’ll need some patience to find whatever you're seeking; alternatively, let the friendly owner, Lam Sum, guide you to the right shelf.

10 Chancery Lane GalleryART

(10 號贊善里畫廊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2810 0065; www.10chancerylanegallery.com; 10 Chancery Lane, Soho; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)

Located in hidden-away Chancery Lane, this gallery focuses on thought-provoking works by promising Asian, mainland Chinese and Hong Kong artists. It also runs seminars and art walks.

Andy HeiANTIQUES

(研木得益 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3105 2002; www.andyhei.com; 84 Hollywood Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Sat; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

This world-class furniture dealer specialises in classical Chinese furniture from the Ming and Qing dynasties, and scholar’s objects. It also restores rare huanghuali wood and zitan pieces. Hei is the founding chairman of Fine Art Asia (www.fineartasia.com), which showcases art and antiquities of Asian heritage.

Linva TailorFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(年華時裝公司 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 2456; 38 Cochrane St, Soho; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; g26)

Fancy a cheongsam aka qipao (body-hugging Chinese dress)? Bring your own silk or choose from the selection here. If you’re pushed for time, the bespoke tailors, Mr and Mrs Leung, are happy to mail the completed items to you.

Karin Weber GalleryANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 5004; www.karinwebergallery.com; 20 Aberdeen St, Soho; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat, by appointment Sun; g26)

Karin Weber has an interesting mix of Chinese country antiques and contemporary Asian artwork. She is able to arrange antique-buying trips to Guǎngdōng for serious buyers.

IndosiamBOOKS, ANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2854 2853; 1st fl, 89 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h1-7pm; g26)

Hong Kong's first truly antiquarian bookshop deals in rare titles relating to Asian countries, with Thailand, China and the former French colonies being its areas of strength. Indosiam also sells vintage newspapers and old Chinese prints.

Li Yuen Street East & WestMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Li Yuen St E & W, Central; h10am-7pm; mCentral, exit C)

The two narrow, crowded alleyways linking Des Voeux Rd Central with Queen’s Rd Central are called ‘the lanes’ by Hong Kong residents, and were traditionally the place to go for fabric and piece goods. Most vendors have now moved to Western Market in Sheung Wan, and while it’s no great retail hunting ground you’ll still find cheap clothing, handbags, backpacks and costume jewellery.

7Sheung Wan

oChan Shing KeeANTIQUES

(陳勝記 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2543 1245; www.chanshingkee.com; 228-230 Queen's Rd Central, Sheung Wan; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; g101, 104)

This shop with a three-storey showroom is run by Daniel Chan, the third generation of a family that’s been in the business for 70 years. Chan Shing Kee is known to collectors and museums worldwide for its fine classical Chinese furniture (16th to 18th century). Scholars' objects, such as ancient screens and wooden boxes, are also available.

Lam Kie Yuen Tea CoFOOD & DRINKS

(林奇苑茶行 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2543 7154; www.lkytea.com; 105-107 Bonham Strand E, Sheung Wan; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; mSheung Wan, exit A2)

This shop, which has been around since 1955, is testament to just how much tea there is in China. From unfermented to fully fermented, and everything in between, there’s simply too much to choose from. But don't panic – the owner will offer you a tasting.

Capital GalleryANTIQUES

(長安美術 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2542 2271; 27E Tung St, Sheung Wan; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, by appointment Sun; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

Located on a slope between Upper Lascar Row and Hollywood Rd, this tiny shop is crammed with sculptures, ceramics and other curios dating from 4000 to 5000 years ago. Highlights include Silk Road pieces, such as minority textiles from northwest China, and jewellery.

L’s Fine ArtsANTIQUES

(松心閣 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 6606 1818, 852 2540 5569; Room G8, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan; hnoon-6pm Mon-Sat; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

L’s is littered with curios worth between HK$5000 and HK$200,000, including early Chinese ceramics and Tang dynasty figurines. The reputable shop, located in the drab-looking Hollywood Centre, also sells consigned items for collectors worldwide.

Sin Sin Fine ArtART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2858 5072; www.sinsin.com.hk; 53-54 Sai St, Sheung Wan; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; mSheung Wan, exit A2)

This eclectic gallery owned by a fashion designer with a flair for ethnic designs shows good-quality Hong Kong, mainland Chinese and Southeast Asian art – mostly edgy paintings and photography.

Ngai Tile WaveANTIQUES

(藝雅廊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2517 2586; 172 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; g26, mCentral, exit D2)

You can find Tang figurines, tricoloured ancient pottery, and porcelain from the Ming and Qing dynasties costing between HK$1000 and HK$100,000 in this shop. Older and more expensive artefacts are kept in a room upstairs. Tell the staff what you’re looking for and they’ll let you know if they have it.

Wing On Department StoreDEPARTMENT STORE

(永安百貨 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2852 1888; www.wingonet.com; Wing On Centre, 211 Des Voeux Rd Central, Central; h10am-7.30pm; mSheung Wan, exit E3)

The last truly one-stop-shop department store in Hong Kong. Sure, it’s a little old-fashioned, but you can find almost everything you need here, from garden hoses to iPhone covers, and baby pacifiers to Italian leather jackets. And there are super-friendly women to help you.

2Sports & Activities

Wan Kei Ho International Martial Arts AssociationMARTIAL ARTS

(尹圻灝國際武術總會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 9506 0075, 852 2544 1368; www.kungfuwan.com; 3rd fl, Yue’s House, 304 Des Voeux Rd Central, Sheung Wan; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun; mSheung Wan, exit A)

English-speaking Master Wan teaches northern Shàolín kung fu to a wide following of locals and foreigners. Classes are offered in the evenings from Monday to Thursday. Depending on how many classes you take, the monthly fees may range from HK$350 to HK$1600.

Happy Foot Reflexology CentreSPA

(知足樂 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 1151; www.happyfoot.hk; 19th & 20th fl, Century Sq, 1 D'Aguilar St, Lan Kwai Fong; h10am-midnight; mCentral, exit D2)

Getting intense, Chinese-style foot massages is a regular treat for many hard-driving Hong Kong business people. Foot/body massage starts at HK$200/250 for 50 minutes at this popular reflexology spa.

Flawless Hong KongSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2869 5868; www.flawless.hk.com; 4th fl, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; h10am-10pm; mCentral, exit D1)

This award-winning spa attracts a youngish clientele with its homey setting and vast array of no-nonsense treatments for the face (from HK$580 up) and nails (manicures from HK$160). They use sophisticated 'age-combating' serums, but nothing too airy-fairy such as flowers or pebbles.

Hong Kong Pub CrawlDRINKING TOUR

(www.hongkongpubcrawl.com; ticket HK$100)

Hong Kong Pub Crawl organises an event every Thursday night that lets you experience Hong Kong’s nightlife and meet new friends.

Fringe ClubCOURSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2521 7251; www.hkfringe.com.hk; 2 Lower Albert Rd, Lan Kwai Fong)

The Fringe Club offers any number of courses and workshops centred on visual arts.