Kowloon
Kowloon
Neighbourhood Top Five
1Symphony of Lights Watching this kitschy but impressive light show against the backdrop of Victoria Harbour.
2Peninsula Lobby Enjoying scones and a cup of Earl Grey in the lobby of the elegant Jazz Age Peninsula hotel, as a string quartet saws away.
3Temple Street Night Market Taking in the intoxicating mix of sights, sounds and smells at the this lively night market.
4Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple Experiencing a Taoist ceremony or having your fortune told at this colourful temple.
5Yuen Po Street Bird Garden & Flower Market Admiring the songbirds and blossoms at this sweet little market, where elderly locals 'walk' their caged songbirds among vendors selling intricate bamboo cages and a rainbow of birds.
Explore: Kowloon
Start your day by spending an hour or two at the Museum of History, then take a leisurely half-hour stroll to the Star Ferry Concourse via the scenic Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade (parts of which are closed until 2018; detour on Salisbury Rd). Check out the sights along the way, such as the Cultural Centre and the clock tower, and follow up with lunch at an Indian or Shanghainese restaurant.
Walk to Yau Ma Tei, stopping at St Andrew’s Church and Kowloon British School along the way. Spend an hour or so exploring Tin Hau Temple, the Jade Market and Shanghai St. Then do any one or two of the following: take the MTR to Prince Edward for the Yuen Po St Bird Garden & Flower Market followed by a visit to Mong Kok; visit Sham Shui Po and the Apliu Street Flea Market; or go to Diamond Hill to immerse yourself in the tranquillity of Chi Lin Nunnery.
Have dinner at one of the roadside stalls in Yau Ma Tei, then it’s on to the Temple Street Night Market. Wrap up your day with drinks in Tsim Sha Tsui (TST).
Local Life
AHang-out Film buffs and the artsy crowd like to chill on the upper floor of Mido Café.
AShopping Fashionistas seek affordable additions to their wardrobes at the Rise Shopping Arcade and street-level shops at Granville Circuit.
ASingalong parlours College kids like to celebrate birthdays in Yau Ma Tei's singalong parlours, such as Canton Singing House.
Getting There & Away
ABus Depart the Star Ferry Bus Terminal for points across Kowloon, Hong Kong Island and the New Territories: N21 goes to the airport, 5A goes to Kowloon City and 8 goes to Kowloon Station. Eternal East Cross Border Coach buses leave from various points in Tsim Sha Tsui.
ABoat Macau Ferries depart from the China Ferry Terminal on Canton Rd (Tsim Sha Tsui). Star Ferries leave from the Tsim Sha Tsui concourse at the western end of Salisbury Rd.
TOP SIGHT
Hong Kong Museum of History
If you have time for only one museum, make it the Hong Kong Museum of History. Its whistle-stop overview of the city’s natural history, ethnography and indigenous culture provides some lively context to your impressions of Hong Kong. There are free guided tours in English at 11am on weekends.
The eight galleries of the Hong Kong Story exhibition take you on a fascinating walk through the territory’s history, starting with the natural environment and prehistoric Hong Kong (about 6000 years ago), and ending with the territory’s return to China in 1997. Interestingly, there’s hardly anything on life post-1997.
You’ll encounter colourful replicas of a Chinese marriage procession, and the dwellings of the Tanka boat people and the Puntay, who built walled villages. You’ll see traditional costumes and re-created shophouses from 1881, and board a tram from 1913. You'll watch WWII footage that features interviews with Chinese and foreigners taken prisoner by the Japanese.
The section devoted to Hong Kong urban culture contains replicas of a retro grocery store, a soda fountain and the interiors of a poor man’s home. There’s a cinema decorated in '60s style with three screenings daily (11am, 2pm and 4pm) of old Cantonese films.
Don't Miss
AThe Hong Kong Story
ASpecial exhibitions
Practicalities
A香港歷史博物館
A
%852 2724 9042
A100 Chatham Rd South, Tsim Sha Tsui
Aadult/concession HK$10/5, Wed free
A
h10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 7pm Sun
A
W
c
A
mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2
TOP SIGHT
Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade
The resplendent views of Victoria Harbour make this walkway one of the best strolls in Hong Kong. Go during the day to take pictures and visit the museums. Then after sundown, revisit the views, now magically transformed, with the skyscrapers of Central and Wan Chai decked out in neon robes.
The promenade is packed during the Chinese New Year fireworks displays in late January/early February and in June during the Dragon Boat Festival.
A good place to begin your journey is at the Former Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) Clock Tower, a landmark of the age of steam, near the Star Ferry Concourse. In 1966 thousands gathered here to protest against a fare increase. The protest erupted into the 1966 riot, the first in a series of social protests leading to colonial reform.
Passing the Cultural Centre and the Museum of Art, you’ll arrive at the Avenue of Stars, Hong Kong’s lacklustre tribute to its once-brilliant film industry. The highlight here is a 2.5m tall bronze statue of kung fu icon Bruce Lee. Most of this area is closed for renovation until late 2018.
Every evening from the promenade you can watch the Symphony of Lights, the world’s largest permanent laser light show projected from atop dozens of skyscrapers.
The walk takes you past the hotels of the reclaimed area known as Tsim Sha Tsui East, and past that to the Hong Kong Coliseum and the Hung Hom train station. The further north you go, the quieter it gets, and tourists and pleasure boats are replaced by container barges and men angling for fish.
Parts of the promenade are closed until 2018; detour on Salisbury Rd.
Don't Miss
AThe views
AClock Tower
ASymphony of Lights
TOP SIGHT
Temple Street Night Market
Hong Kong's liveliest night market, Temple St extends from Man Ming Lane in the north to Nanking St in the south, and is cut in two by the historic Tin Hau Temple. It’s a great place to go for the bustling atmosphere, the smells and tastes of the dai pai dong (food stalls), the free Cantonese opera performances, and fortune-telling. The market is at its best from about 7pm to 10pm, when it’s clogged with stalls and people.
To get here from Yau Ma Tei MTR station, follow Man Ming Lane.
For alfresco dining, head for Woo Sung St, running parallel to the east, or to the section of Temple St north of the temple. You can get anything from a bowl of wonton noodles to oyster omelettes and Nepalese curries. There are also seafood and hotpot restaurants in the area. For an unusual experience, take a seat at a singalong parlour and order delivery.
Every evening a gaggle of fortune-tellers sets up tents in the middle of the market where they make predictions about your life (for HK$100 up) by reading your face and palm, or based on your date of birth. Some keep birds that have been trained to pick out ‘fortune’ cards. Most operators speak some English.
If you're in luck, you’ll catch snippets of a Cantonese opera performed under the stars. Some of the most famous stars of the opera stage began their careers in this humble fashion – or so they say.
Don't Miss
AShopping
AStreet food
AFortune-tellers
ATemple St singalong parlours
TOP SIGHT
Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple
An explosion of pillars, roofs, and lattice work in bright colours, this busy Taoist temple is a destination for all walks of life, from pensioners to young professionals. Some come simply to pray, others to divine the future with chìm (bamboo ‘fortune sticks’), which are shaken out of a box onto the ground and interpreted by a fortune-teller.
The busiest times at the temple are around Chinese New Year, Wong Tai Sin’s birthday (23rd day of the eighth month – usually in September) and on weekends.
The complex, built in 1973, is dedicated to a deified healer named Wong Tai Sin who, as a shepherd in Zhèjiāng province, was said to have transformed boulders into sheep. In fact, the whole district is named after him – ironic given he is said to have been a hermit. When he was 15 an immortal taught Wong how to make a herbal potion that could cure all illnesses. He is thus worshipped both by the sick and those trying to avoid illness. The term ‘Wong Tai Sin’ is sometimes used to describe people who are generous to a fault.
Taoist ceremonies take place at the main altar. The image of the deity was brought to Hong Kong from Guǎngdōng province in 1915. Behind the main altar and to the right are the Good Wish Gardens, replete with pavilions (the hexagonal Unicorn Hall, with carved doors and windows, is the most beautiful), zigzag bridges and carp ponds.
Don't Miss
AThe architecture
A Chìm
AThe main altar
ACeremonies
AGood Wish Gardens
AUnicorn Hall
Practicalities
A嗇色園黃大仙祠
A%852 2327 8141, 852 2351 5640
A2 Chuk Yuen Village, Wong Tai Sin
Adonation HK$2
Ah7am-5.30pm
AmWong Tai Sin, exit B2
TOP SIGHT
Chi Lin Nunnery
One of the most beautiful and arrestingly built environments in Hong Kong, this large Buddhist complex, originally dating from the 1930s, was rebuilt completely of wood in the style of a Tang-dynasty monastery in 1998. It’s a serene place with lotus ponds, bonsai tea plants, bougainvillea and silent nuns delivering offerings of fruit and rice to Buddha or chanting behind intricately carved screens.
To get here from Diamond Hill MTR, go through Hollywood Plaza and turn east on to Fung Tak Rd.
Built to last a thousand years, Chi Lin Nunnery is the world’s largest cluster of handcrafted timber buildings, exhibiting a level of artistry rarely found in other faux-ancient architecture. The design, involving interlocking sections of wood joined without a single nail, is intended to demonstrate the harmony of humans with nature.
You enter through the Sam Mun, a series of ‘three gates’ representing the Buddhist precepts of compassion, wisdom and ‘skilful means’. The first courtyard, which contains the delightful Lotus Pond Garden, gives way to the Hall of Celestial Kings, with a large statue of the seated Buddha surrounded by deities. Behind that is the Main Hall, containing a statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha.
Connected to the nunnery is Nan Lian Garden, a Tang-style garden featuring a golden pagoda, a koi pond and a collection of bizarre rocks.
Don't Miss
AFaux-Tang architecture
ASam Mun
ALotus Pond Garden
AHall of Celestial Kings
AMain Hall
ANan Lian Garden
Practicalities
A志蓮淨苑
A%852 2354 1888
A5 Chi Lin Dr, Diamond Hill
Ahnunnery 9am-4.30pm, garden 6.30am-7pm
AmDiamond Hill, exit C2
1Sights
1Tsim Sha Tsui
Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade Top Sight
Hong Kong Museum of History Top Sight
oKowloon ParkPARK
(九龍公園
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lcsd.gov.hk; Nathan & Austin Rds, Tsim Sha Tsui; h6am-midnight; c; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C2)
Built on the site of a barracks for Indian soldiers in the colonial army, Kowloon Park is an oasis of greenery and a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of Tsim Sha Tsui. Pathways and walls criss-cross the grass, birds hop around in cages, and ancient banyan trees dot the landscape. In the morning the older set practise taichi amid the serene surrounds, and on Sunday afternoon Kung Fu Corner stages martial-arts displays.
Symphony of LightsLIGHT SHOW
(Kowloon waterfront; h8-8.20pm)
This kitschy but classic light and music show takes place every single night of the year at 8pm, with classical Chinese songs playing in time to the sight of the Hong Kong Island skyscrapers flashing their lights across the harbour. Get to the waterfront a few minutes early to secure a good position. Best on clear nights.
Peninsula Hong KongHISTORIC BUILDING
(香港半島酒店
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.peninsula.com; cnr Salisbury & Nathan Rds, Tsim Sha Tsui; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit L3)
The Peninsula (c 1928), housed in a throne-like building, is one of the world’s great hotels. Once called ‘the finest hotel east of Suez’, the Pen was one of several prestigious hotels across Asia, lining up with (but not behind) the likes of the Raffles in Singapore and the Cathay (now the Peace) in Shànghǎi. Taking afternoon tea here is a wonderful experience – dress neatly and be prepared to queue for a table.
Hong Kong Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(香港藝術館
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2721 0116; http://hk.art.museum; 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; adult/concession HK$10/5, Wed free; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; 
fStar Ferry, mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
This excellent museum is currently closed as it undergoes a multimillion-dollar renovation. When open, it has seven galleries spread over six floors exhibiting Chinese antiquities, fine art, historical pictures and contemporary Hong Kong art. Highlights include the Xubaizhi collection of painting and calligraphy, contemporary works, and ceramics and other antiques from China.
Nathan RoadSTREET
(彌敦道
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Tsim Sha Tsui; mTsim Sha Tsui, Jordan)
Named after Hong Kong's only Jewish governor, Matthew Nathan, Kowloon’s main drag is a bit of a traffic- and pedestrian-choked scrum of jewellery stores and fashion boutiques. It’s nonetheless an iconic Hong Kong scene where guesthouses rub shoulders with luxury hotels. And it’s completely safe – which is just as well since you won’t be able to avoid using it if you spend any time in the area.
Kowloon Mosque & Islamic CentreMOSQUE
(九龍清真寺
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2724 0095; 105 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h5am-10pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C2)
This structure, with its dome and carved marble, is Hong Kong's largest mosque. It serves the territory’s 70,000-odd Muslims, more than half of whom are Chinese, and accommodates up to 3000 worshippers. The mosque was originally established to serve the Indian Muslim troops of the British army who were stationed at what is now Kowloon Park. Muslims are welcome to attend services, but non-Muslims should ask permission to enter. Remember to remove your footwear.
Former Marine Police HeadquartersHISTORIC BUILDING
(前水警總部
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2926 8000, tour reservation 852 2926 1881; www.1881heritage.com; 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-10pm; fStar Ferry, mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit L6)
F
Built in 1884, this gorgeous Victorian complex is one of Hong Kong’s four oldest government buildings. It was used continuously by the Hong Kong Marine Police, except during WWII when the Japanese navy took over. The complex is now a nakedly commercial property called 'Heritage 1881'. Some of the old structures are still here, including stables, pigeon houses and bomb shelter. Why 1881? Because '4' has a similar pronunciation to 'death' in Chinese, and the developer was superstitious.
Avenue of StarsWATERFRONT
(星光大道 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade, Tsim Sha Tsui)
The Avenue of Stars, located on the spectacular Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade, pays homage to the Hong Kong film industry and its stars, with hand prints, sculptures and information boards. It's a brave, but ultimately lacklustre, effort to celebrate Hong Kong’s film and TV industry.
The Avenue of Stars is currently closed for renovation, with an expected re-opening date of 2018. However, some areas may be open throughout the construction process so it's worth stopping by.
Hong Kong Science MuseumMUSEUM
(香港科學館
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2732 3232; http://hk.science.museum; 2 Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; adult/concession HK$25/12.50, Wed free; h10am-7pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun; Wc; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2)
Illustrating the fundamental workings of technology, with practical demonstrations of the laws of energy, physics and chemistry, the Hong Kong Science Museum is a great hands-on experience capable of entertaining adults as well as children from toddlers to teens.
International Commerce CentreNOTABLE BUILDING
(環球貿易廣場, ICC
GOOGLE MAP
; www.shkp-icc.com; 1 Austin Rd W, Tsim Sha Tsui; Sky100 adult/concession HK$168/118; hfrom 10am; mKowloon, exit C)
At 118 stories, the sleek ICC is Hong Kong's tallest building and one of the 10 tallest in the world. As well as the Ritz-Carlton and Elements, it houses, on its 100th floor, a panoramic observation deck – Sky100. And 60 seconds is all it takes for the high-speed elevators to whisk you there for stunning views of Kowloon and part of the island. From Element's second floor ('Metal Zone'), look for signage for Sky100. Last entry is at 8pm.
Signal Hill Garden & Blackhead Point TowerPARK
(訊號山公園和訊號塔
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Minden Row, Tsim Sha Tsui; htower 9-11am & 4-6pm; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit K)
The views from the top of this knoll are quite spectacular, and if it were the 1900s the ships in the harbour might be returning your gaze – a copper ball in the handsome Edwardian-style tower was dropped at 1pm daily so seafarers could adjust their chronometers. The garden is perched above the Middle Road Children’s Playground. Enter from Minden Row (Mody Rd).
Hong Kong Space Museum & TheatreMUSEUM
(香港太空館
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2721 0226; www.lcsd.gov.hk; 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; adult/concession HK$10/5, shows HK$24/12, Wed free; h1-9pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; Wc; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
This golf-ball–shaped building on the waterfront houses two exhibition halls and a planetarium with a large screen on the ceiling. The museum has a dated feel, but the Omnimax films, the virtual paraglider and the ‘moon-walking’ simulator hold a timeless fascination for kidults. The museum shop also sells dehydrated ‘astronaut’ ice cream in three flavours.
Former KCR Clock TowerHISTORIC BUILDING
(前九廣鐵路鐘樓
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui; fStar Ferry, mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
This 44m-high clock tower (1915) in red-brick and granite on the southern tip of Salisbury Rd was once part of the southern terminus of the Kowloon–Canton Railway (KCR). It was demolished in 1978 after operations moved to the modern train station at Hung Hom, but you can see what it looked like at the Hong Kong Railway Museum in Tai Po.
The clocks began ticking on the afternoon of 22 March 1921 and have not stopped since, except during the Japanese Occupation.
Hong Kong Cultural CentreNOTABLE BUILDING
(香港文化中心
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lcsd.gov.hk; 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h9am-11pm; W; fStar Ferry, mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
Overlooking the most beautiful part of the harbour, the aesthetically challenged and windowless Cultural Centre is a world-class venue containing a 2085-seat concert hall, a Grand Theatre that seats 1750, a studio theatre for up to 535, and rehearsal studios. On the building’s south side is the beginning of a viewing platform from where you can gain access to the Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade.
Former Kowloon British SchoolHISTORIC BUILDING
(前九龍英童學校
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.amo.gov.hk; 136 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
The oldest surviving school building for expat children is a listed Victorian-style structure that now houses the Antiquities and Monuments Office (古物古蹟辦事處). Established in 1902, it was subsequently modified to incorporate breezy verandahs and high ceilings, prompted possibly by the fainting spells suffered by its young occupants.
Ocean Terminal BuildingNOTABLE BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.oceanterminal.com.hk; Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-9pm; fStar Ferry, mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
This building jutting 381m into the harbour is a cruise terminal and a shopping mall. Originally Kowloon Wharf Pier (c 1886), it was rebuilt and reopened in 1966 as the Ocean Terminal – then the largest shopping centre in all of Hong Kong. Today it's part of the Harbour City complex that stretches for half a kilometre along Canton Rd and offers priceless views of the waterfront. You enter it at the western end of the Former KCR Clock Tower.
Hong Kong ObservatoryHISTORIC SITE
(香港天文台
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2926 8200; www.hko.gov.hk; 134a Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
This lovely historical monument, built in 1883, is sadly not open to the public, except for two days in March every year (see website for dates). It continues to monitor Hong Kong’s weather and sends out frightening signals when a typhoon is heading for the territory.
Rosary ChurchCHURCH
(玫瑰堂
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2368 0980; http://rosarychurch.catholic.org.hk; 125 Chatham Rd S, Tsim Sha Tsui; h7.30am-7.30pm; mJordan, exit D)
Kowloon’s oldest Catholic church was built in 1905 with money donated by a Portuguese doctor in Hong Kong, initially for the benefit of the Catholics in an Indian battalion stationed in Kowloon, and later for the burgeoning local Catholic community. Rosary Church features a classic Gothic style with a yellowish facade reminiscent of churches in Macau.
Kowloon Union ChurchCHURCH
(九龍佑寧堂
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2367 2585; www.kuc.hk; 4 Jordan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; mJordan, exit B2)
This red-brick church with Protestant roots was constructed in 1930 with money from an English businessman of Armenian descent. It was built in a Neo-Gothic style – quite unusual for Kowloon – and features a Chinese-tiled pitched roof (which makes it typhoon-proof), a battlemented tower, and windows with Gothic tracery. Sunday service starts at 10.30am.
Fook Tak Ancient TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(福德古廟
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 30 Haiphong Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h6am-8pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C2)
Tsim Sha Tsui’s only temple is a smoke-filled hole in the wall with a hot tin roof. Little is known about its ancestry except that it was built as a shrine in the Qing dynasty and renovated in 1900. Before WWII, worshippers of its Earth God were the unskilled labourers from Kowloon Wharf nearby, where the Ocean Terminal now stands. Today most incense offerers are octogenarians – the temple specialises in longevity.
St Andrew’s Anglican ChurchCHURCH
(聖安德烈堂
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2367 1478; www.standrews.org.hk; 138 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h7.30am-10.30pm, church 8.30am-5.30pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
Sitting atop a knoll, next to the Former Kowloon British School, is this charming building in English Gothic style that houses Kowloon’s oldest Protestant church. St Andrew's was built in 1905 in granite and red brick to serve Kowloon's Protestant population; it was turned into a Shinto shrine during the Japanese Occupation. Nearby you'll see the handsome former vicarage with columned balconies (c 1909). Enter from the eastern side of Nathan Rd via steps or a slope.
Middle Road Children’s PlaygroundPARK
(中間道兒童遊樂場
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Middle Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h7am-11pm; c; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit K)
Accessible via a sweep of stairs from Chatham Rd South, this hidden gem atop the East Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station has play facilities, shaded seating and views of the waterfront. On weekdays it’s the quiet backyard playground of the residents nearby, but on weekends it’s filled with children and picnickers of as many ethnicities as there are ways to go down a slide (if you're eight).
PRACTICAL TIP
COPY WATCH, MADAM?
As with much of the tip of Kowloon, when walking on the promenade expect to be approached by touts offering 'copy watch', 'copy bag' or 'tailor'. If you want to buy a knock-off Rolex or Prada handbag, feel free to look at their wares (usually displayed in a laminated book). Bargain heavily. But if you're looking for a decent suit, you're probably better off going with a reputable tailor.
1Yau Ma Tei
Temple Street Night Market Top Sight
oShanghai StreetSTREET
(上海街
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Yau Ma Tei; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
Strolling down Shanghai St will take you back to a time long past. Once Kowloon’s main drag, it's flanked by stores selling Chinese wedding gowns, sandalwood incense and Buddha statues, as well as mah-jong parlours and an old pawn shop (at the junction with Saigon St). This is a terrific place for souvenirs – fun picks include wooden mooncake moulds stamped with images of fish or pigs or lucky sayings, bamboo steamer baskets, long chopsticks meant for stirring pots and pretty ceramic bowls.
The main business here is kitchen goods. Check out dozens of shops hawking woks, cleavers, tree-trunk carving boards and other necessities of Chinese cookery.
Tin Hau TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(天后廟
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2385 0759; www.ctc.org.hk; cnr Temple & Public Square Sts, Yau Ma Tei; h8am-5pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
This large, incense-filled sanctuary built in the 19th century is one of Hong Kong’s most famous Tin Hau (Goddess of the Sea) temples. The public square out front is Yau Ma Tei’s communal heart where fishers once laid out their hemp ropes in the sun next to Chinese banyans that today shade chess players and elderly men.
Chin Woo Athletic AssociationMARTIAL ARTS
(精武體育館
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2384 3238; www.chinwoo.com.hk/; Flat B & C, 13th fl, Wah Fung Bldg, 300 Nathan Rd, Yau Ma Tei; h2.30-9pm; mJordan, exit B1)
This is the 88-year-old branch of the Chin Woo Athletic Association, founded 100 years ago in Shanghai by the famed kung-fu master Huo Yuanjia (霍元甲). The Shanghai school was featured in Bruce Lee's Fist of Fury and Jet Li's Fearless. You can visit the school during opening hours. Classes, however, are taught mainly in Cantonese.
Wholesale Fruit MarketMARKET
(油麻地果欄
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Shek Lung & Reclamation Sts, Yau Ma Tei; h2-6am; mYau Ma Tei, exit B2)
This historic and still operating market, founded in 1913, is a cluster of one- and two-storey brick and stone buildings with pre-WWII signboards. It is a hive of activity from 4am to 6am when fresh fruit is loaded on and off trucks, and bare-backed workers manoeuvre piles of boxes under the moon. The market is bounded by Ferry St, Waterloo Rd and Reclamation St with Shek Lung St running through it.
Non-night owls can still wander the area, where a number of fruit vendors set up during the day.
To get here from Yau Ma Tei MTR exit B2, turn right.
Yau Ma Tei Police StationHISTORIC BUILDING
(油麻地警署
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 627 Canton Rd, Yau Ma Tei; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
A stone's throw from Tin Hau Temple is this handsome Edwardian police station (c 1922) with arcades and arches. You may have caught a glimpse of it in the film Rush Hour 2. Some of its architectural features have been adapted for feng shui reasons – crime-fighting is a high-risk profession. For instance, the portico at the main entrance is set in an indented corner to better protect the building's inhabitants.
PRACTICAL TIP
BEWARE FAKE MONKS
Real monks never solicit money. But during your stay, you may be approached by con artists in monk outfits who try to make you part with your money. Some may even offer Buddhist amulets for sale, or force ‘blessings’ on you then pester you for a donation. When accosted, just say ‘no’ firmly and ignore them.
1Mong Kok
oYuen Po Street Bird Garden & Flower MarketPARK
(園圃街雀鳥花園, 花墟
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Yuen Po & Boundary Sts, Mong Kok; h7am-8pm; mPrince Edward, exit B1)
In this enchanting corner of Mong Kok, you will find a handful of old men out ‘walking’ their caged songbirds. Stick around long enough and you should see birds being fed squirming caterpillars with chopsticks. There are also feathered creatures for sale, along with elaborate cages carved from teak (an excellent souvenir, in our opinion). Adjacent to the garden is the flower market, which theoretically keeps the same hours, but only gets busy after 10am.
Don't miss shops choked with thousands of multihued orchids, all cheap as chips.
oLui Seng ChunHISTORIC BUILDING
(雷春生堂
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3411 0628; http://scm.hkbu.edu.hk/lsctour; 119 Lai Chi Kok Rd, cnr Tong Mi Rd, Mong Kok; hguided tour 2.30pm & 4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am & 11am Sat, consultation 9am-1pm & 2-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; mPrince Edward, exit C2)F
Hugging a street corner is this beautiful four-storey Chinese 'shophouse' belonging to a school of Chinese medicine. Constructed circa 1931, it features a mix of Chinese and European architectural styles – deep verandahs, urn-shaped balustrades and other fanciful takes on a neoclassical Italian villa. The ground floor, which has a herbal tea shop, is open to the public. Free guided tours to the upper-floor clinics is available by registration. They're in Cantonese, but exhibits have bilingual labels.
An English tour can be arranged for groups of more than four. Make an appointment if you want to have your pulse taken by a Chinese doctor.
Heritage of Mei Ho House MuseumMUSEUM
(美荷樓生活館
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3728 3500; Block 41, Shek Kip Mei Estate, 70 Berwick St, Sham Shui Po; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; 
gA2, mSham Shui Po, exit D2)F
This museum inside the Mei Ho House Youth Hostel introduces the history of Mei Ho House, which was among the first batch of resettlement blocks built to house the survivors of a devastating blaze that broke out in 1953 and left nearly 58,000 homeless. Mei Ho House marked the beginning of Hong Kong’s public housing policies. Using artefacts and replicas of old residences, the museum introduces the way of life and culture in Hong Kong during the 1950s to 1970s.
C&G ArtpartmentGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2390 9332; www.candg-artpartment.com; 3rd fl, 222 Sai Yeung Choi St S, Mong Kok; h2-7.30pm Thu, Fri, Sun & Mon, from 11am Sat; mPrince Edward, exit B2)
Clara and Gum, the founders of this edgy art space behind the Pioneer Centre (始創中心), are passionate about nurturing the local art scene and representing socially minded artists. They close late when there are events. See website for the latest.
Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb MuseumMUSEUM
(李鄭屋漢墓博物館
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2386 2863; www.lcsd.gov.hk; 41 Tonkin St, Sham Shui Po; h10am-6pm Fri-Wed; mCheung Sha Wan, exit A3)F
Don’t expect a Terracotta Army, but for those interested in the area’s ancient history, this is a significant burial vault dating from the Eastern Han dynasty (AD 25–220). The tomb consists of four barrel-vaulted brick chambers set around a domed central chamber. It’s encased in a concrete shell for protection and visitors can only peep through a plastic window.
1New Kowloon
Chi Lin Nunnery Top Sight
Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple Top Sight
Cattle Depot Artist VillageVILLAGE
(牛棚藝術村
GOOGLE MAP
; 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd, To Kwa Wan; h10am-10pm; g106, 12A, 5C, 101, 111)
This century-old slaughterhouse deep in the entrails of Kowloon has been reincarnated into an artists’ village, its red-brick buildings housing studios and exhibition halls. There are some 20 art organisations inside, including On and On Theatre Workshop. The nonprofit visual art organisation 1a Space (
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2529 0087; www.oneaspace.org.hk; Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd, To Kwa Wan; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; g106, 12A, 5C, 101, 111) holds regular exhibitions of high-quality local and international art, as well as concerts and theatrical performances.
The village itself is an interesting place to visit even when there's nothing happening. Its next to a Town Gas storage facility, in the northern part of To Kwa Wan, an area on Kowloon's east coast.
Kowloon Walled City ParkPARK
(九龍寨城公園
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2716 9962; www.lcsd.gov.hk; Tung Tau Tsuen, Tung Tsing, cnr Carpenter & Junction Rds, Kowloon City; hpark 6.30am-11pm, exhibition 10am-6pm, closed Wed; g1 from Star Ferry pier)
This attractive park was the site of the mysterious Kowloon Walled City, a Chinese garrison in the 19th century that technically remained part of China throughout British rule. Neither government wanted to have anything to do with the 3-acre enclave, so it became a lawless slum infamous for its gangs, prostitution and drug dens. The British eventually relocated the 30,000 residents and built a park in its place. There’s a model of it on display at the park. If you're taking the bus, alight opposite the park at Tung Tau Tsuen Rd.
2Neighbourhood Walk
Kowloon's Teeming Market Streets
Start Yuen Po Street Bird Garden
End Jordan MTR station, exit A
Length 4.5km; two hours
A 10-minute walk away from Prince Edward station (exit A), 1Yuen Po Street Bird Garden is the gathering place for older men who air their caged birds here. A little further along, Flower Market Rd is lined with fragrant and exotic blooms.
At the end of Flower Market Rd, take a left turn onto Sai Yee St, then a right onto Prince Edward Rd West and then a left turn onto Tung Choi St. Walk two blocks to the 2Goldfish Market, a dozen or so shops trading in these extravagantly hued fish. You’ll see an amazing variety, with the real rarities commanding high prices.
Sharpen your elbows. 3Tung Choi St market, also known as the Ladies’ Market, is crammed with shoppers and stalls selling mostly inexpensive clothing.
Beneath the naked light bulbs, hundreds of stalls at the 4Temple Street Night Market sell a vast array of booty from sex toys to luggage. Coming from Tung Choi St, turn right on Dundas St and then left into Shanghai St, cut down Hi Lung Lane to Temple St and turn right. The market runs right down to Jordan Rd.
Fragrant smoke curls from incense spirals at 5Tin Hau Temple. Fortune-tellers nearby use everything from tarot cards to palmistry and even tame sparrows to deliver their predictions.
A good place to pick up an inexpensive trinket, the large covered 6Jade Market contains dozens of stalls selling jade of all grades. At Jordan Rd turn east, then south into Nathan Rd to find Jordan MTR station.
5Eating
5Tsim Sha Tsui
oChicken HOF & Soju KoreanKOREAN$
(李家; Chicken
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2375 8080; ground fl, 84 Kam Kok Mansion, Kimberley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals from HK$150; h5pm-4am; mJordan, exit D)
This place with darkened windows may look dodgy from the outside, but in fact it’s a Korean gastropub with a friendly owner who’ll holler a greeting when customers enter. The excellent fried chicken, made with a light and crispy batter, comes in five versions. Traditional fare such as Korean barbecue is also available. If you need to ask directions, locals often refer to this place as 'Lee Family Chicken'. A long queue is the norm.
Tak Fat Beef BallsNOODLES$
(德發牛肉丸
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Haiphong Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; beef ball noodles HK$28; h9am-8pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit A1)
This famous dai pai dong (food stall) is one of a handful operating in the Haiphong Rd Temporary Market. Pick a seat in the cacophonous sprawl and order the beef ball noodles, famed for their bounce and hint of dried mandarin peel. The market is next door to Fook Tak Ancient Temple. Venture past the florists and halal meat stalls to reach the dai pai dong.
WoodlandsINDIAN$
(活蘭印度素食
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2369 3718; Upper ground fl, 16 & 17 Wing On Plaza, 62 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$70-180; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; 
vc; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit P1)
Located above a department store, good old Woodlands offers excellent-value Indian vegetarian food to compatriots and the odd local. Dithering gluttons should order the thali meal, which is served on a round metal plate with 10 tiny dishes, a dessert and bread. Dosai are excellent.
Peking Dumpling ShopDUMPLING$
(北京水餃店
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2368 3028; Shop A2, 15B Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui; servings HK$10-40; h11.30am-11.30pm; mJordan, exit D)
This tiny shop whips up decent meat-filled pastries, hearty dumplings and noodles of the chewy northern variety. Get your carb fix seated in booths or, if the smell of grease gets to you, on the go.
Mammy PancakeDESSERTS$
(媽咪雞蛋仔
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 8-12 Carnarvon Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; egg waffles HK$16-28; h11.30am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit D2)
This takeaway counter serves up some of Hong Kong's best eggettes, the egg-shaped waffles beloved by local children and adults alike. Get them in classic plain, or in inventive flavours such as green tea, chestnut, sweet potato or pork floss. Or pig out with a waffle sandwich oozing with peanut butter and condensed milk. Expect a 15-minute wait for your treat.
Pierre HerméDESSERTS$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2155 3866; www.pierreherme.com/hk; Shop 2410, Level 2, Harbour City, 7-27 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; macarons HK$30; h10am-10pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C3)
Sweet, tender and transient like young love, the legendary macarons of this French confectioner feature dazzling flavour pairings, all beautifully named. Jardin Dans Les Nuages (Garden in the Clouds) is ‘chocolate and smoked salt’, which translates on the tongue as a hint of smokiness in velvety chocolate.
Yum ChaDIM SUM$
(飲茶
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2751 1666; http://yumchahk.com; 3/F 20-22 Granville Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$100-250; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2)
Adorable, animal-shaped dumplings and buns are just begging to be Instagrammed at Yum Cha, one of the newer players on Hong Kong's dim-sum scene. Barbecue pork buns are adorned with tiny piggy faces, custard buns are anthropomorphic eggs, and bird-shaped pineapple puffs are served in ornate cages. There's also a full menu of Cantonese fare, rendered with a modern twist.
Sweet DynastyCANTONESE, DESSERTS$
(糖朝
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2199 7799; Shop A, Basement, Hong Kong Pacific Centre, 28 Hankow Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$70-300; h8am-midnight Mon-Thu, 8am-1am Fri, 7.30am-1am Sat, 7.30am-midnight Sun; c; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit A1)
Sweet Dynasty's extensive menu encompasses a plethora of casual Cantonese dishes, but the desserts, noodles and congee, for which they became famous years ago, are still the best. The restaurant is clean and modern, but gets crowded when busy.
ChangwonKOREAN$
(莊園韓國料理
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2368 4606; 1 Kimberly St, Tsim Sha Tsui East; meals HK$100-200; hnoon-5am; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
One of the oldest and most authentic Korean restaurants in town, Chang Won makes delectable beef ribs, seafood pancakes and cold noodles, and the staff are generous with side dishes. But the toilet is not for the faint-hearted.
Hungry KoreanKOREAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2730 5577; http://hungrykorean.com; 24-38 Ashley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$30-60; hnoon-midnight)
The most popular of this Korean fast casual chain's five locations, there's almost always a line here for cheap and tasty bibimbap, gim bap (Korean-style sushi), spicy chicken wings and kimchi pancakes. Don't worry, it moves fast.
City’superSUPERMARKET, FOOD COURT$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.citysuper.com.hk; Shop 3001, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City Level 3, 25-27 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-10pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C2)
This posh Japanese supermarket chain has international groceries and a food court serving a plethora of Asian cuisines, including udon, Korean stone pot rice and Taiwanese dumplings, as well as some of the best Hokkaido-style soft-serve ice cream in town.
oYè ShanghaiDIM SUM$$
(夜上海
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2376 3322; www.elite-concepts.com; 6th fl, Marco Polo Hotel, Harbour City, Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$400-800; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; c; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C2)
The name means ‘Shànghǎi Nights’. Dark woods and subtle lighting inspired by 1920s Shànghǎi fill the air with romance. The modern Shanghainese dishes are also exquisite. The only exception to this Jiāngnán harmony is the Cantonese dim sum being served at lunch, though that too is wonderful. Sophisticated Yè Shanghai has one Michelin star.
oDin Tai FungTAIWANESE, NOODLES$$
(鼎泰豐
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2730 6928; www.dintaifung.com.hk; Shop 130, 3rd fl, Silvercord, 30 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$120-300; h11.30am-10.30pm; c; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C1)
Whether it’s comfort food or a carb fix you’re craving, the juicy Shànghǎi dumplings and hearty northern-style noodles at this beloved Taiwanese chain will do the trick. Queues are the norm and there are no reservations, but service is excellent. Must-eats include the famous xiǎolóngbāo (soup dumplings), fluffy steamed pork buns and the greasy-but-oh-so-good fried pork chop.
oSpring DeerPEKING DUCK$$
(鹿鳴春飯店
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2366 4012; 1st fl, 42 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$80-500; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit N2)
Hong Kong’s most authentic northern-style roasted lamb is served here. Better known is the Peking duck, which is very good. That said, the service can be about as welcoming as a Běijīng winter, c 1967. Booking is essential.
oWoo CowHOTPOT$$
(禾牛薈火煱館; Great Beef Hot Pot
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3997 3369; 1st & 2nd fl, China Insurance Bldg, 48 Cameron Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$350-600; h5.30pm-2am; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B3)
Indecisive gluttons will scream at the mind-blowing hotpot choices here – 200 ingredients (the majority fresh or homemade), 20 kinds of broth (from clam soup to fancy herbal concoctions) and an embarrassment of condiments (all-you-can-dip)! There’s no escaping the menu either – the lights are too bright! Now onto the sashimi options… Booking essential.
Sen Hotpot RestaurantCANTONESE$$
(千鍋居
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2377 2022; 1st fl, Liberty Mansion, 26E Jordan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$300; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30pm-1am; mJordan, exit A)
A wallet-friendly misnomer, Sen specialises in dishes served in pots, rather than ‘hotpot’ aka steamboat, though that is available too. Rustic cuisine evokes dew-fresh ingredients in heart-warming combos – and this modern eatery fares well, notably with the braised goose. That said, it’s noisy, unlike the portraits of old Hong Kong gracing its walls. Enter from Temple St.
GaylordINDIAN$$
(爵樂印度餐廳
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2376 1001; 1st fl Ashley Centre, 23-25 Ashley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals from HK$250; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm; v; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit E)
Dim lighting and live sitar music set the scene for enjoying the excellent rogan josh, dhal and other favourite dishes at Hong Kong's oldest – and Kowloon's classiest – Indian restaurant, which has been operating since 1972. There are lots of vegetarian choices as well. Though pricier than other Indian places in town, the cosy alcoves and attentive service more than compensate.
Dong Lai ShunCHINESE$$
(東來順
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2733 2020; www.rghk.com.hk; B2, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$250-1500; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; Wc; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit P2)
Besides superbly executed Northern Chinese dishes, the phonebook of a menu here also features Shanghainese, Sichuanese and Cantonese favourites. But Dong Lai Shun is best known for its mutton hotpot, which involves dunking paper-thin slices of mutton into boiling water and eating it with sesame sauce. The atmosphere is a little formal but the service is warm.
Hing Kee RestaurantCANTONESE$$
(避風塘興記
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2722 0022; 1st fl, Bowa House, 180 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$380-1200; h6pm-5am; mJordan, exit D)
This celebrity haunt is run by a feisty fisherman’s daughter who’s known for her brilliant dishes prepared the way they were on sampans. The signature crabs smothered in a mountain of fried garlic are a wonder to taste and behold. The service can be a little edgy. Be sure you know the price of every dish before you order.
Al MoloITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2730 7900; www.diningconcepts.com.hk; Shop G63, Ocean Terminal, 7-23 Canton Rd, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$360-700; hnoon-10.30pm; c; fStar Ferry, mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
The Hong Kong venture of New York–based chef and restaurateur Michael White has brick walls, iron fittings and an alfresco area where you can savour homemade semolina pasta with seafood accompanied by the delicious views of the Tsim Sha Tsui harbourfront. Lunch sets start from HK$150.
Fook Lam MoonCANTONESE, DIM SUM$$$
(福臨門
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2366 0286; www.fooklammoon-grp.com; Shop 8, 1st fl, 53-59 Kimberley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$400-2000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
Locals call FLM 'celebrities' canteen'. But even if you’re not rich and famous, FLM will treat you as if you were. The huge menu contains costly items such as abalone, which would shoot your bill up to at least HK$1000 per head. But no one will snub you if you stick to the dim sum (from HK$60 a basket), which is divine and available only at lunch.
Gaddi’sFRENCH$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2696 6763; www.peninsula.com; 1st fl, The Peninsula, 19-21 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; set lunch/dinner HK$500/2000; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit E)
Gaddi’s, which opened just after WWII, was the kind of place where wealthy families went to celebrate special occasions. Today the classical decor may be a tad stuffy and the live Filipino band gratuitous, but the food – traditional French with contemporary touches – is without a doubt still some of the best in town.
T’ang CourtCANTONESE, DIM SUM$$$
(唐閣
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2375 1133; www.hongkong.langhamhotels.com; 1st fl, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; lunch HK$300-2000, dinner HK$500-2000; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; c; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit L4)
As befitting its name T’ang Court, with two Michelin stars, has mastered the art of fine Cantonese cooking. Deep-pile carpets, heavy silks and mindful staff contribute to a hushed atmosphere. If that seems too formal, rest assured the polished service will make you feel right at home, like an emperor in his palace. The signature baked oysters with port requires pre-ordering.
Sun Tung LokCANTONESE, DIM SUM$$$
(新同樂
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2152 1417; www.suntunglok.com.hk; 4th fl, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; lunch HK$250-3000, dinner HK$500-5000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-10.30pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2)
Crowned with two Michelin stars, elegant Sun Tung Lok (c 1969) proudly upholds the fine traditions of Cantonese cooking. It's evident in the dim sum (available at lunch), which food critics hail as the best in town, and dishes such as braised abalone, which are a litmus test of culinary skill. STL is pricey but sets are available and dim sum come in half-baskets.
Steak HouseINTERNATIONAL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2313 2323; https://hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com; InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$700; h6-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm Sat & Sun; c; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
At this first-rate steakhouse, the imported beef exhilarates, and there are trimmings to enhance your experience such as a flight of eight exotic salts, multiple mustards and fancy steak knives. The extravagant salad bar (HK$398 per person) is a meal in itself; and the desserts are awesome, but beware: they're huge even by American standards!
Kimberley Chinese RestaurantCHINESE$$$
(君怡閣中菜廳
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2369 8212; M fl, Kimberley Hotel, 28 Kimberley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$300-600; h11am-3pm & 6-11pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
This restaurant is famous for the Kimberley Pig – a 30-day piglet stuffed with sticky rice that’s been cooked with shallots and garlic, then roasted whole. Each piglet (HK$900) will feed at least five hungry people. You need to order it two days in advance, and pay a (negotiable) deposit of HK$200 the day before. Still hungry? Try the beef ribs.
5Yau Ma Tei
oSun SinNOODLES$
(新仙清湯腩
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2332 6872; 37 Portland St, Yau Ma Tei; meals HK$40-65; h11am-midnight; mYau Ma Tei, exit B2)
A Michelin-praised brisket shop in a 'hood known for brothels, Sun Sin has kept quality up and prices down despite its laurels. The succulent cuts of meat are served in a broth with radish, in a chunky tomato soup, or as a curry. At peak times, makeshift tables are available upstairs for those who prize food over comfort.
Nathan Congee and NoodleNOODLES$
(彌敦粥麵家
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2771 4285; 11 Saigon St, Yau Ma Tei; meals HK$60; h7.30am-11.30pm; mJordan, exit B2)
This low-key eatery has been making great congee and noodles for the last half-century. Order a side of fritters (to be dunked into congee and eaten slightly soggy), tackle a pyramidal rice dumpling, or conquer the blanched fish skin tossed with parsley and peanuts.
Hing Kee RestaurantCANTONESE$
(興記菜館
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2384 3647; 19 Temple St, Yau Mei Tei; h6pm-1am; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
Previously a roadside stall that started out by whipping up hearty claypot rice and oyster omelettes (HK$20) for night revellers and triads, Hing Kee now serves the same under a roof but without the atmosphere.
Osama TonySHANGHAINESE, DUMPLINGS$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2755 5090; 122 Woo Sung St, Jordan; meals HK$40-80; hnoon-11pm; mJordan, exit A)
We're not sure how it chose its strange English name, but this cosy little spot serves some of Kowloon's best and cheapest xiao long bao (soup dumplings), as well as to-die-for crispy radish cakes and heaped plates of Shanghai-style noodles and fried rice.
Australia Dairy CompanyCAFE$
(澳洲牛奶公司
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2730 1356; 47-49 Parkes St, Jordan; meals HK$30-50; h7.30am-11pm Wed-Mon; mJordan exit C2)
Long waits and rude service are the standard at this beloved Hong Kong cha chaan teng (tea house), famed for its scrambled egg sandwiches, macaroni and ham soup, and milk pudding. An experience to be had.
Mido CaféCAFE$
(美都餐室
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2384 6402; 63 Temple St, Yau Ma Tei; meals HK$40-90; h9am-10pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit B2)
This retro cha chaan tang (tea house; 1950) with mosaic tiles and metal latticework stands astride a street corner that comes to life at sundown. Ascend to the upper floor and take a seat next to a wall of iron-framed windows overlooking Tin Hau Temple – its atmosphere is what makes it Kowloon's most famous tea cafe, despite passable food and service.
BBQ LobsterBARBECUE$
(龍蝦燒
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2374 9888; 7 Man Ying St, Ferry Point, Yau Ma Tei; skewers HK$12-35; h5pm-3am; v; mJordan, exit A)
The most comfortable of three neighbouring branches, this buzzing eatery lures Kowloon gluttons with scrumptious grilled skewers that are 30% to 50% cheaper than the same in Soho. With fresh seven-inch prawns at only HK$17 each and vegetarian options aplenty, indulgence is the norm. In between sticks, cleanse your palate with a sip of Hoegaarden or a zesty white.
5Mong Kok
Tim Ho Wan, the Dim Sum SpecialistsDIM SUM$
(添好運點心專門店
GOOGLE MAP
; 9-11 Fuk Wing St, Sham Shui Po; meals HK$40-200; h8am-10pm; mSham Shui Po, exit B1)
A former Four Seasons dim-sum chef re-creates his magic in the first budget dim-sum eatery to receive a Michelin star. Get a ticket when you arrive and a table should be available in under 30 minutes. The barbecue pork bun is famed across Asia. There's a branch in Central.
Good Hope NoodleNOODLES$
(好旺角麵家
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2384 6898; Shop 5-6, 18 Fa Yuen St, Mong Kok; meals HK$30-90; h11am-12.45am; mMong Kok, exit D3)
This 40-year-old shop has retained its Michelin commendation and fan following. Now the al dente egg noodles, bite-sized wontons and silky congee that have won hearts for decades continue to be cooked the old way, but are served in neat, modern surrounds.
One Dim SumDIM SUM$
(一點心
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2789 2280; Shop 1 & 2, Kenwood Mansion, 15 Playing Field Rd, Mong Kok; meals HK$35-60; h11am-1am; mPrince Edward, exit A)
This cheery place is known for all-day, bang-for-the-buck dim sum. Customers place orders by ticking their selections of 45 items. There’s always a line, but the wait is usually under 30 minutes. Nonpeak hours are 3pm to 5pm, and 9pm to midnight.
Kung Wo Tofu FactoryTOFU$
(公和荳品廠
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2386 6871; 118 Pei Ho St, Sham Shui Po; meals HK$8-30; h9am-9pm; mSham Shui Po, exit B2)
A charming 50-year-old shop of a brand established in 1893, Kung Wo wears its name proudly in red clerical script. Regulars come for fresh soy milk, pan-fried tofu and sweet tofu pudding, made the traditional way from beans ground using a hand-operated millstone. The silky tofu has nutty notes, and the hue is off-white – reassuringly imperfect, just like the service.
5New Kowloon
Chi Lin VegetarianVEGETARIAN, CHINESE$
(志蓮素齋, 龍門樓; Long Men Lou
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3658 9388; 60 Fung Tak Rd, Nan Lian Garden; meals from HK$200; hnoon-9pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-9pm Sat & Sun; v; mDiamond Hill, exit C2)
Tasty vegetarian food and a location behind a waterfall make dining here a superb way to begin or end your visit to Chi Lin Nunnery and Nan Lian Garden. The elegant Song Cha Xie nearby specialises in the art of Chinese tea drinking. Be sure to reserve ahead, especially on weekends.
Cheong FatTHAI, NOODLES$
(昌發泰國粉麵屋
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2382 5998; 27 South Wall Rd, Kowloon City; noodles from HK$30; hnoon-11.30pm)
Blasting music videos in this hole-in-the-wall eatery set the rhythm as you slurp up the tasty Chiang Mai noodles. The open kitchen has appetising cooked dishes on display too, such as pork trotters with preserved vegetables. To get to Kowloon City, take minibus 25M from Kowloon Tong station (exit B2).
Kowloon TangCHINESE, DIM SUM$$
(九龍廳
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2811 9398; www.kowloontang.com; 3rd fl, roof deck, Elements Mall, 1 Austin Rd W, Tsim Sha Tsui; meals HK$300-2000; hnoon-10.30pm; c; mKowloon, exit U3)
Sophisticated Kowloon Tang serves impeccable Cantonese dishes, including a few Dongguan classics, a laudable Peking duck and an impressive selection of Western-style desserts in an art deco–inspired setting.
Lung Mun Seafood RestaurantSEAFOOD$$$
(龍門海鮮酒家
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2717 9886; www.lungmun.com.hk; 20 Hoi Pong Rd W, Lei Yue Mun; meals HK$800-2000; hnoon-10.30pm)
Founded in 1967, this is one of the oldest and most elegant restaurants in the seafood restaurant-filled village of Lei Yue Mun. Lobster baked with cheese and fried mantis shrimp with salt and pepper are the specialities.
Lung Yue RestaurantSEAFOOD$$$
(龍如海鮮酒樓
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2348 6332; 41 Hoi Pong Rd Central, Lei Yue Mun; meals HK$800-2000; h11.30am-11pm)
A veteran restaurant in the fishing village of Lei Yue Mun, Lung Yue is known for its skills in steaming fish and abalone.
Sea King Garden RestaurantSEAFOOD$$$
(海皇園林酒家
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2348 1408, 852 2348 1800; 39 Hoi Pong Rd Central, Lei Yue Mun; meals HK$800-2000; hnoon-10pm; fLei Yue Mun)
In the fishing village of Lei Yue Mun, this restaurant has a dated feel with an indoor garden and pool where turtles are kept. Throwing money into the shallow water is supposed to bring luck. Expect Cantonese seafood classics such as grouper with garlic and ginger, and salt and pepper fried shrimp.
RobatayakiJAPANESE$$$
(爐端燒日本餐廳
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2996 8438; http://kowloon.harbourgrand.com/dining/robatayaki; Ground fl, Harbour Grand Kowloon Hotel, 2 Harbour Front, 22 Tak Fung St, Whampoa Gardens, Hung Hom; lunch/dinner from HK$350/500; hnoon-2pm & 6-10.30pm; gminibus 5)
At this farmhouse-style restaurant, Japanese skewers are grilled before your eyes by chefs seated on a wooden deck surrounded by a display of fresh ingredients. To order, just point at what you want; the chef will scoop it up on a wooden paddle, cook it, and serve it back to you on the same device.
Minibus 5 from Hankow Rd (Tsim Sha Tsui) has a final stop at Whampoa bus terminus. The hotel is a three-minute walk away.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
LEI YUE MUN VILLAGE
Popular seafood venue Lei Yue Mun has around two dozen restaurants lining a winding road that overlooks a typhoon shelter. Once you’ve settled down in a restaurant, go outside and pick your dinner from one of the stalls with live seafood tanks, making sure you know how much you’re paying and for what, before committing. The restaurant will take care of the rest. Expect to pay upwards of HK$800 per person for a meal.
After leaving Yau Tong MTR station (exit A2), follow Cha Kwo Ling Rd and Shung Shun St south for 15 minutes or catch green minibus 24M from outside the station.
6Drinking & Nightlife
6Tsim Sha Tsui
oInterContinental Lobby LoungeBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2721 1211; www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com; Hotel InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h7am-12.30am; W; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
Soaring plate glass and an unbeatable waterfront location make this one of the best spots to soak up the Hong Kong Island skyline and take in the busy harbour, although you pay for the privilege. It’s also an ideal venue from which to watch the evening light show at 8pm.
oAquaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3427 2288; www.aqua.com.hk; 29 & 30th fl, 1 Peking Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h4pm-2am, happy hour 4-6pm; W; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit L5)
When night falls, you'll know why this uberfashionable bar has dim illumination and black furniture – the two-storey, floor-to-ceiling windows command sweeping views of the Hong Kong Island skyline that come to life after sundown. The tables by the windows are awesome for bringing a date. On the weekends, a DJ spins hip hop and lounge jazz.
TapagriaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2147 0111; www.tapagria.hk; 18th fl, The One, 100 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit A2)
Less crowded than many of Kowloon's 'million-dollar view' bars, this slinky Spanish-inflected spot has some three dozen different sangrias on the menu, from a lychee and elderflower version made with Cava to one with chocolate and banana liqueurs combined with strawberries. Get a patio table to take in the skyline from the 18th floor.
ButlerCOCKTAIL BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2724 3828; 5th fl, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; drinks around HK$200; h6.30pm-3am Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat & Sun; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit N2)
A cocktail and whisky heaven hidden in the residential part of Tsim Sha Tsui. You can flip through its whisky magazines as you watch the experienced bartenders create magical concoctions with the flair and precision of a master mixologist in Ginza. We loved the cocktails made from fresh citruses. A discreet and welcome addition to the Tsim Sha Tsui drinking scene.
Felix BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2315 3188; 28th fl, Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h5.30pm-1.30am; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit E)
Enjoy the fabulous view at this Philippe Starck–designed bar in Hong Kong’s poshest hotel. Even the bathrooms have beautiful views.
AmuseBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2317 1988; 4 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui; h5pm-4am Mon-Fri, 6pm-4am Sat, 6pm-3am Sun; W; mJordan, exit D)
An airy bistro-like bar frequented by white-collar locals and university students who come for their draught beers, decent wines and funky cocktails. The best seats are the leather couches next to a row of large windows; the communal table is great if you want to meet people, and the banquettes make for intimate tête-à-têtes.
Tapas BarBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2733 8756; www.shangri-la.com; Lobby, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h3.30pm-1am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; W; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit P1)
An intimate vibe and bistro-style decor make this a good place to unwind over champagne, tapas and the sports channel after a day of sightseeing. A table in the alfresco area will let you smoke and take in harbour views, visible beyond a river of cars.
VibesLOUNGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2315 5999; www.themirahotel.com; 5th fl, Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h5pm-midnight Sun-Wed, 5pm-1am Thu-Sat; W; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
This open-air lounge bar comes with plush seating, exotic cabanas and random greenery. You can take your pick from their ‘molecular’ cocktails, which feature liquid nitrogen and foam, or smoke a fruit-flavoured shisha. From 8pm daily (except Sunday), a resident DJ spins groovy tunes from his station.
UtopiaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3188 0816; 26th fl, Hon Kwok Jordon Centre, 7 Hillwood Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 1am Sun; W; mJordan, exit D)
A favourite haunt of young local office workers, Utopia has good views but doesn't charge you for them. The drinks list of 50 Old and New World bottles, and draught beer, is also reasonably priced. And there's a dart board if you're bored. Happy hour runs from 5pm to 9pm and midnight to late Monday to Thursday, plus all day Sunday.
Ned Kelly’s Last StandPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2376 0562; 11A Ashley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h11.30am-2am, happy hour 11.30am-9pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit L5)
Named after a gun-toting Australian bushranger, Ned’s is one of Hong Kong’s oldest pubs. Most of the expat regulars here (and there are many) are drawn to the laid-back atmosphere and the Dixieland jazz band that plays and cracks jokes between songs. The bar is filled with old posters, rugby shirts and Oz-related paraphernalia.
King Ludwig Beer HallBEER HALL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2369 8328; www.kingparrot.com; 32 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit K)
This busy place with antler lighting fixtures is popular with visiting Germans and others hankering after fried pork knuckle and German beer on tap, including Maisel’s Weiss. It’s just under the Middle Road Children’s Playground.
6Yau Ma Tei & Mong Kok
oKubrick Bookshop CaféCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2384 8929; www.kubrick.com.hk; Shop H2, Prosperous Garden, 3 Public Square St, Yau Ma Tei; h11.30am-9.30pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
The airy bookshop-cafe attached to the Broadway Cinematheque serves decent coffee and simple eats, attracting an eclectic, arty crowd. While waiting for your cuppa, you can browse the shop's strong collection of art, film and cultural studies titles.
BooBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2736 6168; 5th fl, Pearl Oriental Tower, 225 Nathan Rd, Jordan; h7pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri, 9pm-4am Sat, happy hour 7-9pm; mJordan, exit C1)
This low-key gay bar on Nathan Rd with a karaoke jukebox seems to attract huggable ‘bear’ types in the local gay community; there’s a DJ every Saturday from 9pm.
Knockbox Coffee CompanyCOFFEE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2781 0363; http://knockboxcoffee.hk; 21 Hak Po St, Mong Kok; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun, last orders 9pm; W; mMong Kok, exit E)
This tiny cafe in hectic Mong Kok offers good espresso-based coffees, and the baristas are ready to share their encyclopaedic knowledge of beans. If you're hungry, there's fish and chips, cakes and other cafe food.
6New Kowloon
OzoneBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2263 2263; www.ritzcarlton.com; 118th fl, ICC, 1 Austin Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h5pm-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri, 3pm-3am Sat, noon-midnight Sun; W; mKowloon, exit U3)
Ozone is the highest bar in Asia. The imaginative interiors, created to evoke a cyber-esque Garden of Eden, have pillars resembling chocolate fountains in a hurricane and a myriad of refracted glass and colour-changing illumination. Equally dizzying is the wine list, with the most expensive bottle selling for over HK$150,000. Offers potential for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, in more ways than one.
Oh, that temptingly empty corner table? That's HK$10k just to sit there.
Song Cha XieTEAHOUSE
(松茶榭; Pavilion of Pine & Tea
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3658 9390; 60 Fung Tak Rd, Nan Lian Garden; tea leaves from HK$150; hnoon-6.30pm; mDiamond Hill, exit C2)
This elegant tea pavilion has long wooden corridors and intimate alcoves, which provide the serenity required for savouring good Chinese tea. Every table comes with a teapot, and the proper drinking utensils. If you're hungry, there are a couple of vegetarian dim sum on offer. The pavilion is inside Nan Lian Garden.
3Entertainment
oCanton Singing HouseLIVE MUSIC
(艷陽天
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 49-51 Temple St, Yau Ma Tei; HK$20; h3-7pm & 8pm-5am; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
The oldest and most atmospheric of the singalong parlours, Canton resembles a film set with its mirror balls and glowing shrines. Each session features 20 singers, all with fan following. Patrons tip a minimum of HK$20 (per patron) if they like a song.
Even if you don't, it's nice to tip every now and then for the experience – just slip your money into a box on stage. For HK$100, you can sing a song.
oHidden AgendaLIVE MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 9170 6073; www.hiddenagenda.hk; 2A, Wing Fu Industrial Bldg, 15-17 Tai Yip St, Kwun Tong; mNgau Tau Kok, exit B6)
Hong Kong's best-known music dive has the setting (former warehouse), line-up (solid indie acts) and elusiveness (it's out of the way) all other dives wish they had. Located in the gritty industrial hub of Kwun Tong (about a five-block walk from the MTR), Hidden Agenda is synonymous with underground music. The entrance has a small metal gate that’s open after-hours.
XXXLIVE MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 9156 2330; www.xxxgallery.hk; Unit A, Kin Luen Factory Bldg, 89-91 Larch St, Tai Kok Tsui, Kowloon; mSheung Wan, exit A2)
This underground arts space features bare concrete and indie music performances, as well as art exhibitions. Opening hours are irregular. Check the website for upcoming events.
DadaLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.dadalounge.com.hk; 2nd fl, Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h11am-2am Mon-Sat, to 1am Sun; W; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
Upstairs in a quirky hotel, Dada is an intimate cocktail bar decked out with florid wallpaper, plush velvet seats and a couple of Dalí-esque paintings. Jazz and blues bands play to a professional mid-30s crowd a few times a month.
Jyut Wan Go ZoLIVE MUSIC
(粵韻歌座; Yuèyùn Gēzuò
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 53-57 Temple St, Yau Ma Tei; HK$20; h3.30-7.30pm & 8pm-4am; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
This long-standing singalong place is large and slightly shabby, but the women here are sweet and persuasive. For HK$50, you can make a dedication or sing with them.
TongthreeLIVE MUSIC
(妖物唐三
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; https://www.facebook.com/tongthree; 2nd fl, 716 Shanghai St, Mong Kok; mPrince Edward, exit C2)
This atmospheric studio and artists' hideout on the 3rd floor of a Chinese tenement building, or tong lau, stages cultural events several times a month, its charming turn-of-the-century setting providing the backdrop for live gigs, poetry readings, dance performances and movie screenings. See their Facebook page for the latest.
Lee Shau Kei School of Creativity Arts CentreLIVE PERFORMANCE
(香港兆基創意書院文化藝術中心
GOOGLE MAP
; www.creativehk.edu.hk/artscentre; 135 Junction Rd, Kowloon City; g11D, 11K, 75K, 85, 891, mLok Fu, exit B)
This out-of-the-way performance-arts academy has a rich cultural program that covers music, film and a book fair. Though some events are meant for students, many are professional and interestingly experimental in nature, such as noise concerts by internationally renowned artists. See the calendar online for what's on.
On and On Theatre WorkshopTHEATRE
(前進進戲劇工作坊
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2503 1630; www.onandon.org.hk; Unit 7, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd, To Kwa Wan; g106, 12A, 5C, 101, 111)
This independent theatre group at the Cattle Depot Artist Village puts on thought-provoking works by local and international playwrights and runs workshops for professional actors. Their website has more.
Hong Kong Cultural CentreTHEATRE, MUSIC
(香港文化中心
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lcsd.gov.hk; 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h9am-11pm; W; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit L6)
Hong Kong’s premier arts performance venue, this world-class cultural centre contains a 2085-seat concert hall with an impressive Rieger pipe organ, plus two theatres and rehearsal studios.
Broadway CinemathequeCINEMA
(百老匯電影中心
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2388 3188; Ground fl, Prosperous Gardens, 3 Public Square St, Yau Ma Tei; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
The place for new art-house releases and rerun screenings. The Kubrick Bookshop Café next door serves decent coffee and simple meals.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TEMPLE STREET'S SINGALONG PARLOURS
A highlight of Yau Ma Tei is its old-fashioned singalong parlours (歌廳). These originated 20 years ago to offer shelter to street singers on rainy days.
Most parlours have basic set-ups – tables, a stage and Christmas lights for an upbeat atmosphere. All have their own organist and a troupe of freelance singers – women who'll keep you company and persuade you to make a dedication or sing along with them for a fee. Their repertoire ranges from Chinese operatic extracts to English oldies. You'll see many regulars at these places – kooky types from the neighbourhood; old men who drink from whisky flasks and know all the dames…
It's more fun to go after 9pm. As parlours don't provide food, you're welcome to order delivery. Some sell beer but you can also get your own from convenience stores.
7Shopping
7Tsim Sha Tsui
oK11 SelectACCESSORIES, CLOTHING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Shop 101, K11 Mall, 18 Hanoi Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-10pm)
In the K11 mall, this shop gathers the best of Hong Kong designers in one spot. Look for theatrical clothing from Daydream Nation, founded by a pair of Hong Kong siblings, and unisex accessories from Kapok.
oRise Shopping ArcadeCLOTHING
(利時商場
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui; h3-9pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2)
Bursting the seams of this minimall is cheap streetwear from Hong Kong, Korea and Japan, with a few knock-offs chucked in for good measure. Patience and a good eye could land you purchases fit for a Vogue photo shoot. It’s best visited between 4pm and 8.30pm when most of the shops are open.
K11 Art MallMALL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 18 Hanoi Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit D2)
With international clothing and accessories brands plus some edgier local offerings, K11 features exhibition spaces for local artists, hence its 'art mall' title. The basement is a sweet-lover's paradise, with a global array of chocolate shops. It’s right above the MTR station.
Swindon BooksBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2366 8001; www.swindonbooks.com/; 13-15 Lock Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit A1)
This is one of the best locally run bookshops in the city, with an excellent range and knowledgeable staff. Strong on local books and history in particular.
Harbour CityMALL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.harbourcity.com.hk; 3-9 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-10pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C1)
This is an enormous place, with 700 shops, 50 food and beverage outlets and five cinemas. Outlets are arrayed in four separate zones: for kids, sport, fashion, and cosmetics and beauty. Almost every major brand is represented. Massively crowded on weekends.
Curio AlleyGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; btwn Lock & Hankow Rds,Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-8pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C1)
This is a fun place to rummage for name chops, soapstone carvings, fans and other Chinese bric-a-brac. It’s found in an alleyway between Lock and Hankow Rds, just south of Haiphong Rd.
Heaven PleaseCLOTHING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2311 9533; www.heavenplease.com; 7th fl, Kolling Centre, 77-79 Granville Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h1-9pm Mon-Sat, 2-8pm Sun; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2)
Lady Gaga meets punk Lolita at this fun place. The designers are liberal with the lace and the '80s glam. Even if you don't want the whole rack on you, the pieces will add whimsical touches to any classic wardrobe. Stiff-collars and straitjackets won’t be caught dead here, but who needs them anyway? Building entrance on Chatham Rd South.
Premier JewelleryJEWELLERY
(愛寶珠寶有限公司
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2368 0003; Shop G14-15, ground fl, Holiday Inn Golden Mile Shopping Mall, 50 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit G)
This third-generation family firm is directed by a qualified gemologist and is one of our favourite places to shop. The range isn’t huge but if you’re looking for something particular, give Premier Jewellery a day’s notice and a selection will be ready in time for your arrival. Staff can also help you design your own piece.
BizetSHOES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3621 0878; www.bizetleather.com; Room 1610, 16th fl, Beverley Commercial Centre, 87-105 Chatham Rd S, Tsim Sha Tsui; h11.30am-7.45pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-7pm Sat; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2)
Everyone has heard of Gucci, but Italy also makes chic, handcrafted footwear for the mid-market that is little known overseas. Bizet’s owner orders quality shoes directly from Italian artisans for her small, but exquisite, women’s collection. Everything from ballerina flats and Oxfords to peek-a-boo sandals and combat boots at prices modest for the ‘100% made in Italy’ label.
Brown's TailorCLOTHING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3996 8654; www.brownstailor.com; Unit E, 2nd fl, Comfort Bldg, 88 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B1)
Chic Brown's Tailor belongs to a new generation of bespoke tailoring shops for men. They're adept at both making traditional gentlemen's attire and instilling modern elements into a classic look. Depending on the fabric used, a suit can cost you anywhere between HK$4200 and HK$18,000.
7Yau Ma Tei & Mong Kok
oShanghai StreetMARKET
(上海街
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Yau Ma Tei; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
Wander Kowloon's kitchen district for food-related souvenirs such as wooden mooncake moulds, chopsticks, woks and ceramic teapots.
oLadies' MarketMARKET
(通菜街, 女人街; Tung Choi Street Market
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Tung Choi St; hnoon-11.30pm; mMong Kok, exit D3)
The Tung Choi Street market is a cheek-by-jowl affair offering cheap clothes and trinkets. Vendors start setting up their stalls as early as noon, but it's best to get here between 1pm and 6pm when there's much more on offer. Beware, the sizes stocked here tend to suit the lissom Asian frame. A terrific place to soak up local atmosphere.
oYue Hwa Chinese Products EmporiumDEPARTMENT STORE
(裕華國貨
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3511 2222; www.yuehwa.com; 301-309 Nathan Rd, Jordan; h10am-10pm; mJordan, exit A)
This five-storey behemoth is one of the few old-school Chinese department stores left in the city. Gets here include silk scarves, traditional Chinese baby clothes and embroidered slippers, jewellery both cheap and expensive, pretty patterned chopsticks and ceramics, plastic acupuncture models and calligraphy equipment (to name a few). The top floor is all about tea, with various vendors offering free sips. Food is in the basement.
oChan Wah Kee Cutlery StoreHOMEWARES
(陳華記刀莊
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2730 4091; 278D Temple St, Yau Ma Tei; h11am-6pm Thu-Tue; mJordan, exit C2)
At this humble shop, octogenarian Mr Chan, one of Asia's few remaining master knife-sharpeners, uses nine different stones to grind each blade, and alternates between water and oil. If you bring him your blade, he charges between HK$100 and HK$600 with a three-month wait. But if you buy from him, and he has a great selection, he’ll do it there and then.
Prices range from HK$200 for a small paring knife to around HK$2000 for a Shun knife. His customers include chefs, butchers, tailors and homemakers from all over the world. He’s had clients send him Japanese willow knives for his magic touch. Choppers, cleavers, slicers, paring knives, even scissors – he’s done them all. Find his shop close to Bowring St.
Hong Kong ReaderBOOKS
(序言書室
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2395 0031; www.hkreaders.com; 7th fl, 68 Sai Yeung Choi St S, Mong Kok; h1pm-11pm; mMong Kok, exit D3)
Run by a handful of young people, this is a bilingual bookstore-cafe with an intellectual bent. If you’re looking for the likes of Derrida or Milosz, this is the place to go. Check the website for the latest literary readings, though most are conducted in Cantonese. Hong Kong Reader is above a 1010 telecommunications shop.
Apliu Street Flea MarketMARKET
(鴨寮街
GOOGLE MAP
; Apliu St, btwn Nam Cheong & Yen Chow Sts, Sham Shui Po; hnoon-midnight; mSham Shui Po, exit A1)
A geek’s heaven, this flea market specialises in all things digital and electronic. The market spills over into Pei Ho St.
Jade MarketMARKET
(玉器市場
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Battery St & Kansu St, Yau Ma Tei; h10am-6pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
The covered Jade Market, split into two parts by Battery St, has hundreds of stalls selling all varieties and grades of jade. But unless you really know your nephrite from your jadeite, it’s not wise to buy expensive pieces here. Some of the best gets here are not jade at all, but pretty, vintage-y ceramic bead necklaces and bracelets, or coloured wooden beads with double happiness signs.
Tak Hing Dried SeafoodFOOD
(德興海味
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2780 2129; 1 Woo Sung St, Yau Ma Tei; h9am-7.30pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
One of the very few honest dried-seafood stores in the area, this delightful old corner establishment has glass jars stuffed with dried scallops, crocodile meat and bird’s nests, though you might prefer the figs, cashews, candied lotus seeds and ginseng.
Sino CentreMALL
(信和中心
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 582-592 Nathan Rd, Mong Kok; h10am-10pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit A2)
This shabby go-to place for all things related to Asian animation and comics will give you a taste of local culture. Its tiny shops carry new and back issues of Japanese manga, action figures, old-fashioned video games and other kidult bait that attracts a largely male following.
Sin Tat PlazaMALL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 83 Argyle St, Mong Kok; h11am-10pm; mMong Kok, exit D2)
Popular with locals, Sin Tat Plaza on busy Argyle St is dedicated to mobile phones of all persuasions, including a Chinese-made phone that doubles as a lighter! It’s also where you go to get your phone fixed and unlocked.
Langham Place MallMALL
(朗豪坊
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3520 2800; www.langhamplace.com.hk/en/; 8 Argyle St, Mong Kok; h11am-11pm; mMong Kok, exit C3)
This 15-storey supermall has some 300 shops that stay open till as late as 11pm, making it popular with local teens. Smaller, funkier, more local brands occupy the top floors, with bigger names down below. The focal point of the mall is the high-tech Digital Sky, where special events take place.
Mong Kok Computer CentreELECTRONICS
(旺角電腦中心
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mongkokcc.com/; 8-8A Nelson St, Mong Kok; h1-10pm; mMong Kok, exit D3)
Prices at this computer mall are cheap but language can be a barrier, and you’ll see more finished products than computer components.
ProtrekSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(保捷行
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.protrek.com.hk; 5 Tung Fong St, Yau Ma Tei; h11.30am-9pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
This reliable shop with branches all over town is arguably your best bet for outdoor gear that will see you through from sea to summit. It runs training courses on outdoor activities as well. The English-speaking staff are very helpful.
7New Kowloon
oGolden Computer Arcade & Golden Shopping CenterELECTRONICS
(黃金電腦商場, 高登電腦中心
GOOGLE MAP
; www.goldenarcade.org; 146-152 Fuk Wa St, Sham Shui Po; h11am-9pm; mSham Shui Po, exit D2)
Occupying different floors of a building opposite Sham Shui Po MTR station, these are the places to go for low-cost computers and peripherals. Golden Computer Arcade comprises the basement and ground floor; Golden Shopping Centre, the 1st floor. The 3Cs are generally considered the best shops – Centralfield (Golden Shopping Centre), Capital (Golden Computer Arcade) and Comdex (both places).
Cheung Sha Wan RoadMARKET
(長沙灣道
GOOGLE MAP
; Cheung Sha Wan Rd, Sham Shui Po; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; mSham Shui Po, exit C1)
This long road is a riot of shops selling fabrics, trimmings, buttons, ribbons and other raw materials, as well as prét-à-porter clothing. You’ll bump into fashion designers here.
Vivienne TamFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2265 8381; www.viviennetam.com; LG1 Shop 05, Festival Walk, Kowloon Tong; h11am-8.30pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; mKowloon Tong, exit C2)
This enduring brand from New York–based designer Tam, who was trained in Hong Kong, sells eminently wearable, feminine – but also streetwise – women’s foundation pieces, light gossamer dresses and slinky tops, plus a range of accessories.
ElementsMALL
(圓方
GOOGLE MAP
; www.elementshk.com; 1 Austin Rd W, West Kowloon; h11am-9pm; mKowloon, exit U3)
Located inside the ICC, Kowloon’s most upmarket shopping mall comprises five pleasant sections each decorated according to one of the five natural elements. Other thoughtful touches include good nursing facilities and helpful staff. Austin Rd West is an area built on reclaimed land that’s connected to Austin Rd in Tsim Sha Tsui at its eastern end.
2Sports & Activities
Country & Marine Parks AuthorityPARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2150 6868; www.afcd.gov.hk/english/country/cou_vis/cou_vis.html)
Has information about visiting Hong Kong's various country and marine parks.
Hong Kong DolphinwatchWILDLIFE WATCHING
(香港海豚觀察
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2984 1414; www.hkdolphinwatch.com; 15th fl, Middle Block, 1528A Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; adult/child HK$420/210; hcruises Wed, Fri & Sun)
S
Hong Kong Dolphinwatch was founded in 1995 to raise awareness of Hong Kong's wonderful pink dolphins and promote responsible ecotourism. It offers 2½-hour cruises to see them in their natural habitat. About 97% of the cruises result in the sighting of at least one dolphin; if none are spotted, passengers are offered a free trip.
Water ToursBOATING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2926 3868; www.watertours.com.hk; 6th fl Carnarvon Plaza, 20 Carnarvon Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui)
Offers six different tours of the harbour on junk-style boats, as well as dinner and cocktail cruises. Prices range from HK$260 (HK$170 for children aged two to 12 years) for the Morning Harbour Cruise, to HK$350 (HK$260 for children) for the Symphony of Lights Cruise and HK$900 (HK$700 for children) for the Aberdeen Dinner Cruise.
Big Bus CompanyBUS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 3102 9021; www.bigbustours.com; Unit KP-38, 1st fl, Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui; adult/child from HK$450/400; h9am-6pm)
A good way to get your bearings in the city is on the hop-on, hop-off, open-topped double-deckers. Three tours are available: the Kowloon Route takes in much of the Tsim Sha Tsui and Hung Hom waterfront; the Hong Kong Island Route explores Central, Admiralty, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay; and the Green Tour goes to Stanley Market and Aberdeen.
Peninsula AcademyCOURSE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2696 6693; www.peninsula.com; The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; dim-sum class HK$2000; mTsim Sha Tsui)
Offers various luxury classes, from traditional Chinese arts and crafts to understanding fashion. Especially popular is a 1½-hour dim-sum–making class, which includes lunch.
Wing Chun Yip Man Martial Arts Athletic AssociationMARTIAL ARTS
(葉問國術總會
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %852 2723 2306; www.yipmanwingchunasso.com; 54 3/F Mirador Mansion, 58 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit E)
The cost for three lessons a week (two or three hours each) for a month is HK$500. A six-month intensive course (six hours a day, six days a week) is around HK$5000, depending on the student.