Macau

27-day-trips-macau-hkm17jpg
Macau Peninsula

Lying 65km to the west of Hong Kong, Macau is a city of duality. Its fortresses, churches and the culinary traditions of its former Portuguese colonial masters speak to a uniquely Mediterranean style on the China coast. These are intermixed with the customs, alleys, temples and shrines of its Chinese heritage. On the other hand, the Special Administrative Region (SAR) of Macau is the ‘Vegas of the East’, the only place in China where gambling is legal.

The Islands: Taipa, Coloane & Cotai

Taipa was once two islands that were slowly joined together by silt from the Pearl River. A similar physical joining has happened to Taipa and Coloane because of land reclamation from the sea. The new strip of land joining the two islands is known as Cotai (from Coloane and Taipa). Taipa has rapidly urbanised and it’s hard to imagine that just a few decades ago it was an island of duck farms and boat yards. The small island of Coloane was a haven for pirates until 1910. Today it retains Macau’s old way of life, though luxurious villas are finding their way onto the island.

Top Sight
TOP SIGHT

Ruins of the Church of St Paul

shutterstock356871272jpg
YOKO_KEN_CHAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Also known as 'the Gate to Nowhere', the ruins of the Church of St Paul are the most treasured icon in Macau. Once a Jesuit church in the early 17th century, all that remains of it now are the facade and the stairway. However, with its statues, portals and engravings that effectively make up a sermon in stone, it’s one of the greatest monuments to Christianity in Asia.

The church was designed by an Italian Jesuit and built in 1602 by Japanese Christian exiles and Chinese craftsmen. After the expulsion of the Jesuits, a military battalion was stationed here. In 1835 a fire erupted in the kitchen of the barracks, destroying everything, except what you see today.

The facade has five tiers. At the top is a dove, representing the Holy Spirit, surrounded by stone carvings of the sun, moon and stars. Beneath that is a statue of the infant Jesus accompanied by the implements of the Crucifixion. In the centre of the third tier stands the Virgin Mary being assumed bodily into heaven along with angels and two flowers: the peony, representing China, and the chrysanthemum, representing Japan. Just below the pediment, on the right side of the facade, is a dragon surmounted by the Holy Virgin. To the right of the Virgin is a carving of the tree of life and the apocalyptic woman (Mary) slaying a seven-headed hydra; the Japanese kanji next to her reads: ‘The holy mother tramples the heads of the dragon’.

The facade is approached by six flights of 11 stairs each, with an attractive balustrade running up each side.

The small Museum of Sacred Art & Crypt contains carved wooden statues, silver chalices and oil paintings, as well as the remains of Vietnamese and Japanese Christians martyred in the 17th century.

Macau Peninsula

Explore

While many visitors automatically equate 'Macau' with 'gambling', the historic Macau Peninsula is far more about history than blackjack. The Peninsula is the city's busy core, with dense working neighbourhoods, charming colonial buildings (and, yes, some casinos too – mostly the smaller, older ones). It's here that you'll come to see the city's top historic attractions, vestiges of its past as a Portuguese colony. It's also the heart of Macau's burgeoning arts scene, with a growing number of cool cafes and galleries to peruse.

The Best…

ASight Ruins of the Church of St Paul

APlace to Eat Clube Militar de Macau

APlace to Drink Macau Soul

Top Tip

All the big-name casinos have free shuttle services to and from the ferry terminals, the border gate and the airport. Anyone can use these buses – no questions asked. You’ll see them outside the ferry terminals and the casinos. Ask for a timetable at the casinos.

Need to Know

Area Code 853

ALocation Sixty kilometres southwest of Hong Kong.

A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8397 1120, tourism hotline 853 2833 3000; www.macautourism.gov.mo; Edificio Ritz, Largo do Senado; icon-hoursgifh9am-1pm & 2.30-5.35pm Mon-Fri)

1Sights

1Central Macau Peninsula

Ruins of the Church of St Paul

icon-top-choiceoSt Joseph’s Seminary & ChurchCHURCH

(聖若瑟修院及聖堂, Capela do Seminario São José MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Seminario; icon-hoursgifhchurch 10am-5pm; icon-busgifg9, 16, 18, 28B)

St Joseph’s, which falls outside the tourist circuit, is one of Macau’s most beautiful models of tropicalised baroque architecture. Consecrated in 1758 as part of the Jesuit seminary (not open to the public), it features a white-and-yellow facade, a scalloped entrance canopy (European) and the oldest dome, albeit a shallow one, ever built in China. The most interesting feature, however, is the roof, which features Chinese materials and building styles.

icon-top-choiceoSt Lazarus Church DistrictAREA

(瘋堂斜巷, Calcada da Igreja de São Lazaro MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cipa.org.mo; icon-busgifg7, 8)

A lovely neighbourhood with colonial-style houses and cobbled streets makes for some of Macau's best photo-ops. Designers and other creative types like to gather here, setting up shop and organising artsy events.

icon-top-choiceoMandarin’s HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(鄭家大屋, Caso do Mandarim MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2896 8820; www.wh.mo/mandarinhouse; 10 Travessa de António da Silva; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue; icon-busgifg28B, 18)icon-freeF

Built around 1869, the Mandarin’s House, with over 60 rooms, was the ancestral home of Zheng Guanying, an influential author-merchant whose readers included emperors, Dr Sun Yatsen and Chairman Mao. The compound features a moon gate, tranquil courtyards, exquisite rooms and a main hall with French windows, all arranged in that labyrinthine style typical of certain Chinese period buildings. There are guided tours in Cantonese on weekend afternoons.

icon-top-choiceoSir Robert Ho Tung LibraryLIBRARY

(何東圖書館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Largo de St Agostinho; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; icon-busgifg9, 16, 18)

This charming building founded in the 19th century was the country retreat of the late tycoon Robert Ho Tung, who purchased it in 1918. The colonial edifice, featuring a dome, an arcaded facade, Ionic columns and Chinese-style gardens, was given a modern extension by architect Joy Choi Tin Tin not too long ago. The new four-storey structure in glass and steel has Piranesi-inspired bridges connecting to the old house and a glass roof straddling the transitional space.

Leal SenadoHISTORIC BUILDING

(民政總署大樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2857 2233; 163 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A, 18A, 33, disembark at Almeida Ribeiro)

Facing Largo do Senado is Macau’s most important historical building, the 18th-century ‘Loyal Senate’, which houses the Instituto para os Assuntos Cívicos e Municipais (IACM; Civic and Municipal Affairs Bureau). It is so-named because the body sitting here refused to recognise Spain’s sovereignty during the 60 years that it occupied Portugal. In 1654, a dozen years after Portuguese sovereignty was re-established, King João IV ordered a heraldic inscription to be placed inside the entrance hall, which can still be seen today.

Inside the entrance hall is the IACM Temporary Exhibition Gallery (民政總署臨時展覽廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8988 4100; 163 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A, 18A, 33, disembark at Almeida Ribeiro). On the 1st floor is the Senate Library, which has a collection of some 18,500 books, and wonderful carved wooden furnishings and panelled walls.

Senate LibraryLIBRARY

(民政總署圖書館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2857 2233; Leal Senado, 163 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; icon-hoursgifh1-7pm Tue-Sat; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A, 18A, 33, disembark at Almeida Ribeiro)icon-freeF

Located in the Leal Senado, Macau's oldest and most lavish library is a beautiful adaptation of the 18th-century library in the Convento de Mafra outside Lisbon, which was built between 1717 and 1730 by German architect Fredrico Ludovice. Though much smaller, with only two rooms, it features a baroque style with scrolling on the ceiling, and dark wood bookcases surmounted by cartouches. The library's 19,000-book collection includes antique publications in Portuguese, French and English.

Monte FortFORT

(大炮台, Fortaleza do Monte MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm; icon-busgifg7, 8, disembark at Social Welfare Bureau)

Just east of the Ruins of the Church of St Paul, Monte Fort was built by the Jesuits between 1617 and 1626 as part of the College of the Mother of God. Barracks and storehouses were designed to allow the fort to survive a two-year siege, but the cannons were fired only once, during the aborted attempt by the Dutch to invade Macau in 1622. Now the cannons on the south side are trained at the gaudy Grand Lisboa Casino like an accusing finger.

On the outside of the southeastern wall, about 6m from the ground, under a cannon, is a sealed rectangular opening. This was a door used by soldiers patrolling the old city wall, which was connected to the fort at a right angle.

Church of St DominicCHURCH

(玫瑰堂, Igreja de São Domingos MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo de São Domingos; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

Smack in the heart of Macau's historic centre, this sunny yellow baroque church with a beautiful altar and a timber roof was founded by three Spanish Dominican priests from Acapulco, Mexico, in the 16th century, though the current structure dates from the 17th century. It was here, in 1822, that the first Portuguese newspaper was published on Chinese soil. The former bell tower now houses the Treasure of Sacred Art (聖物寶庫, Tresouro de Arte Sacra MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo de São Domingos; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm), an Aladdin’s cave of ecclesiastical art and liturgical objects exhibited on three floors.

Lou Kau MansionHISTORIC BUILDING

(盧家大屋, Casa de Lou Kau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8399 6699; 7 Travessa da Sé; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg3, 4, 6A, 8A, 19, 33)icon-freeF

Built around 1889, this Cantonese-style mansion with southern European elements belonged to merchant Lou Wa Sio (aka Lou Kau), who also commissioned the Lou Lim Ieoc Garden. Behind the grey facade, an intriguing maze of open and semi-enclosed spaces blurs the line between inside and outside. The flower-and-bird motif on the roof can also be found in the Mandarin's House and A-Ma Temple. Traditional craft workers often practise their art here during weekdays. Free guided tours in Chinese on weekends (10am to 7pm).

Street of HappinessSTREET

(福隆新街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua da Felicidade; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

Not far west of Largo do Senado is Rua da Felicidade (Street of Happiness). Its shuttered terraces were once Macau’s main red-light district. Several scenes from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom were shot here. The government has plans to repaint the famous red shutters in the original colour – green. But whether it's wise to change the distinguishing feature of so iconic a landmark remains to be seen.

Macau Wine MuseumMUSEUM

(Museu do Vinho de Macau; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8798 4188; Basement, CAT, 431 Rua de Luís Gonzaga Gomes; wine tasting MOP$15; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Wed-Mon; icon-busgifg1A, 3, 10, 10B, 10X, 23, 28A)icon-freeF

Over 1100 types of wine are on display at the only museum in Macau where beverages are allowed. About 90% of these are of Portuguese origin, including the oldest bottle – the Porto 1815. For MOP$15, you can have a tasting of selected bottles. There is also a rundown of Portugal’s various wine regions, and a (rather bland) display of wine racks, barrels, presses and tools.

Museum of the Holy House of MercyMUSEUM

(仁慈堂博物館, Núcleo Museológico da Santa Casa da Misericórdia MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2857 3938; www.scmm.mo; 2 Travessa da Misericórdia; adult/child MOP$5/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-noon, 2.30-5pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

In the heart of Largo do Senado is Macau's oldest charitable institution (c 1569). The house once sheltered orphans and prostitutes in the 17th and 18th centuries. Today it's a museum with an eclectic collection that includes religious sculptures, ancient porcelain, and the skull of its founder and Macau’s first bishop, Dom Belchior Carneiro.

Macau MuseumMUSEUM

(澳門博物館, Museu de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2835 7911; www.macaumuseum.gov.mo; 112 Praceta do Museu de Macau; MOP$15, 15th of month free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg7, 8, disembark at Social Welfare Bureau)

This interesting museum inside Monte Fort will give you a taste of Macau's history. The 1st floor introduces the territory's early history and includes an elaborate section on Macau's religions. Highlights of the 2nd floor include a recreated firecracker factory and a recorded reading in the local dialect by Macanese poet José dos Santos Ferreira (1919–93). The top floor focuses on new architecture and urban-development plans.

Church of St LawrenceCHURCH

(聖老楞佐教堂, Igreja de São Lourenço MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua de São Lourenço; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 1-2pm Mon; icon-busgifg9, 16, 18, 28B)

One of Macau's three oldest churches, St Lawrence was originally constructed of wood in the 1560s, then rebuilt in stone in the early 19th century. The neoclassical church has a magnificent painted ceiling and one of its towers once served as an ecclesiastical prison. Enter from Rua da Imprensa Nacional.

Church of St AugustineCHURCH

(聖奧斯定教堂, Igreja de Santo Agostinho MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Largo de St Agostinho; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm; icon-busgifg3, 4, 6, 26A)

The foundations of this church date from 1586 when it was established by Spanish Augustinians, but the present structure was built in 1814. The high altar has a statue of Christ bearing the cross, which is carried through the streets during the Procession of the Passion of Our Lord on the first Saturday of Lent, followed by thousands of devotees.

Hong Kung TempleTEMPLE

(康公廟 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rua das Estalagens & Rua de Cinco de Outubro; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

This peaceful, 200-year-old temple is dedicated to Li Lie, a Han-dynasty general. The boat-shaped sculpture in the main hall is used to offer wine to the deities during religious festivities.

Albergue SCMHISTORIC BUILDING

(仁慈堂婆仔屋, Albergue da Santa Casa da Misericórdia or Old Ladies' House MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2852 2550; 8 Calcada da Igreja de Sao Lazaro; icon-hoursgifhnoon-7pm Wed-Mon; icon-busgifg7, 8)

Once known as the Old Ladies’ House, this was a shelter for Portuguese refugees from Shànghǎi in WWII and later a home for elderly women. It’s now run by an art organisation, Albergue SCM, which organises cultural events and art exhibitions here. The two yellow colonial-style buildings sit in a poetic courtyard with magnificent old camphor trees.

Museum of Sacred Art & CryptMUSEUM

(天主教藝術博物館和墓室, Museu de Arte Sacra e Cripta MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Travessa de São Paulo; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm; icon-busgifg8A, 17, 26, disembark at Luís de Camões Garden)icon-freeF

This small museum behind the Ruins of the Church of St Paul contains polychrome carved wooden statues, silver chalices, monstrances and oil paintings, including a copy of a 17th-century painting depicting the martyrdom of 26 Japanese Christians by crucifixion at Nagasaki in 1597.The adjoining crypt contains the remains of Asian Christian martyrs. Also here is the tomb of Alessandro Valignano, the Jesuit who founded the College of the Mother of God and is credited with establishing Christianity in Japan.

Pawnshop MuseumHISTORIC BUILDING

(典當業展示館, Espaço Patrimonial – Uma Casa de Penhores Tradicional MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2892 1811; 396 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-7pm, closed 1st Mon of month; icon-busgifg2, 3, 7, 26A)icon-freeF

This museum housed inside the former Tak Seng On (virtue and success) pawnshop offers an atmospheric glimpse into Macau's pawnshop business, which dates back to the Qing dynasty. Built in 1917, it comprises an office, a lobby and an eight-storey, fortress-like tower. On display is equipment from the original establishment, safes where goods were stored and financial records.

Tap Seac GalleryGALLERY

(塔石藝文舘, Galeria Tap Seac MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.macauart.net/ts; 95 Avenida Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida; icon-hoursgifh10am-9pm; icon-busgifg)

The gallery building features a European-style facade and Moorish arched doors and hosts excellent contemporary art exhibitions. The original patio in the middle of the house has been kept, which creates a light-filled, relaxing setting.

Tap Seac SquareSQUARE

(塔石廣場, Praca do Tap Seac MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-busgifg7, 8)

This beautiful square surrounded by important historic buildings from the 1920s, such as the Cultural Affairs Bureau, Tap Seac Health Centre, Central Library, Library for Macau’s Historical Archives and Tap Seac Gallery. It was designed by Macanese architect Carlos Marreiros. Marreiros also created the Tap Seac Health Centre, a contemporary interpretation of Macau’s neoclassical buildings.

Macau CathedralCHURCH

(大堂(主教座堂), A Sé Catedral MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo da Sé; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A, 18A)

East of Largo do Senado is this cathedral, consecrated in 1850 and rebuilt in 1937 in concrete. It’s not a particularly attractive structure, though it has some notable stained-glass windows. It's very active during major Christian festivals and holy days in Macau.

Sam Kai Vui Kun TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

(三街會館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Rua Sui do Mercado de São Domingos; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm; icon-busgifg3, 4, 6A, 26A)

Literally ‘a community hall for three streets’, this temple was a meeting place for merchants and an adjudication court, before the Chinese Chamber of Commerce came into existence in 1912. It's dedicated to Kwan Yu, the god of war and justice. It gets particularly busy in May, June and July when locals celebrate three festivals in the god’s honour.

Na Tcha TempleTEMPLE

(哪吒廟 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Calçada de Sao Paulo; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm; icon-busgifg3, 4, 6A, 8A, 18A, 19)

There’s no better symbol of Macau’s cultural diversity than Na Tcha Temple sitting quietly beside a major Christian monument – the Ruins of the Church of St Paul. Built around 1888, it's dedicated to the child god of war to halt the plague occurring at that time. The wall outside, often said to be a section of Macau's old city walls, in fact belonged to the former St Paul’s College located at the ruins.

G32HISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2834 6626; 32 Rua de Sao Miguel; icon-hoursgifhfree guided tours 2.30-5pm Sat & Sun; icon-busgifg7, 8)

This three-storey tenement building has been restored as a middle-class Macanese home from the 1960s and '70s, with wooden floorboards, floral wallpaper and retro furniture. A narrow staircase takes you to the roof, where you'll see a unique skyline formed by Chinese buildings, Unesco-protected monuments and casino kitsch.

Tai Fung Tong Art HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(大瘋堂藝舍 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2835 3537; 7 Calçada de São Lazaro; icon-hoursgifh2-6pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg7, 8)icon-freeF

Featuring a mix of Chinese and European architectural styles, this unusual-looking mansion was built almost a century ago by a philanthropist. It’s now occupied by a nonprofit that promotes the area’s Chinese heritage. The house has a collection of traditional Chinese artefacts and a calligrapher is sometimes here to demonstrate ink-and-brush calligraphy.

Chinese Reading RoomNOTABLE BUILDING

(八角亭圖書館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua de Santa Clara; icon-hoursgifh9am-noon & 7pm-midnight; icon-busgifg2A, 6A, 7A, 8)

This former drinks booth (c 1926), known as the ‘Octagonal Pavilion’ in Chinese, is a library with red windows and a slip of a staircase linking the two floors. It's a serene place where middle-aged and elderly men go to read newspapers for free.

Nu Wa TempleTEMPLE

(女媧廟 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rua das Estalagens & Travessa dos Algibebes; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

This tiny temple in a faded yellow building, built in 1888, was consecrated to the serpent-like Nu Wa – the Chinese equivalent of Gaia, the creator goddess. Unlike most other divinities worshipped in Macau, Nu Wa does not offer services associated with the sea. Instead she gives divine assistance to marital and fertility matters. Her likeness sits among those of other deities in the cluttered and smoky temple.

Dom Pedro V TheatreHISTORIC BUILDING

(崗頂劇院, Teatro Dom Pedro V MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2893 9646; Calçada do Teatro, Largo de St Agostinho; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Wed-Mon; icon-busgifg3, 4, 6A, 8A, 19)

This green-and-white colonnaded, neoclassical theatre is the oldest (1858) Western-style theatre in China, and remains an important cultural venue for the Macanese community.

PRACTICAL TIP

BROWSING IN THE OLD CITY

Browsing through the shops in the old city, specifically on crumbly Rua dos Ervanários and Rua de Nossa Senhora do Amparo near the Ruins of St Paul, can be a great experience. You can also look for antiques or replicas at shops on or near Rua de São Paulo, Rua das Estalagens and Rua de São António. Rua de Madeira and Rua dos Mercadores, which lead up to Rua da Tercena and its flea market, have shops selling mah-jong tiles and bird cages.

1Northern Macau Peninsula

icon-top-choiceoGuia Fortress & Guia ChapelFORT

(東望洋炮台及聖母雪地殿聖堂, Fortaleza da Guia e Capela de Guia MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifhfortress 6am-6pm, chapel 10am-5.30pm; icon-busgifg2, 2A, 6A, 12, 17, 18, Flora Garden stop)icon-freeF

As the highest point on the peninsula, Guia Fort affords panoramic views of the city and, when the air is clear, across to the islands and China. At the top is the stunning Chapel of Our Lady of Guia, built in 1622 and retaining almost 100% of its original features, including some of Asia’s most important frescoes. Next to it stands the oldest modern lighthouse on the China coast (1865) – an attractive 15m-tall structure that is closed to the public.

You could walk up, but it’s easier to take the Guia cable car that runs from the entrance of Flora Gardens, Macau’s largest public park.

icon-top-choiceoAFA (Art for All Society)GALLERY

(全藝社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2836 6064; www.afamacau.com; 1st fl, Art Garden, Avenida Dr Rodrigo Rodrigues N 265, Macau; icon-hoursgifh11am-7pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg8, 8A, 18A, 7)

Macau’s best contemporary art can be seen at this nonprofit gallery, which has taken Macau's art worldwide and holds monthly solo exhibitions by Macau’s top artists. AFA is near the Mong Há Multi-Sport Pavilion. Disembark from the bus at Rua da Barca or Rua de Francisco Xavier Pereira. Alternatively, it’s a 20-minute walk from Largo do Senado.

Casa GardenHISTORIC BUILDING

(東方基金會會址 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 13 Praça de Luís de Camões; icon-hoursgifhgarden 9.30am-6pm daily, gallery open only during exhibitions 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri; icon-busgifg8A, 17, 26)

One of the oldest buildings in the city, this beautiful colonial villa was built in 1770. It was the headquarters of the British East India Company when it was based in Macau in the early 19th century. Today it's home to a small gallery that mounts interesting art exhibitions. Visitors can wander the slightly forlorn gardens.

Flora GardensGARDENS

(Jardim da Flora; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Travessa do Túnel; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm, cable car closed Mon)

The former grounds of a Portuguese mansion, this European-style garden is known for its cable car, which travels the short distance up Guia Hill, the highest point in the city and home to Guia Fortress & Guia Chapel. The park's tiny zoo is quite sad by global standards.

Cemetery of St Michael the ArchangelCEMETERY

(西洋墳場, Cemitério de São Miguel Arcanjo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2a Estrada do Cemitério; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm; icon-busgifg7, 7A, 8)

This cemetery, northeast of Monte Fort, contains tombs and sepulchres that can only be described as baroque ecclesiastical works of art. Near the main entrance is the Chapel of St Michael (聖彌額爾小堂, Capela de São Miguel MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2a Estrada do Cemitério; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm; icon-busgifg7, 7A, 8), a doll-sized, mint-green church with a tiny choir loft and pretty porticoes.

Lou Lim Ieoc GardenGARDENS

(盧廉若公園, Jardim Lou Lim Ieoc MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Estrada de Adolfo de Loureiro; icon-hoursgifh6am-9pm; icon-busgifg2, 2A, 5, 9, 9A, 12, 16)

Locals come to this lovely Sūzhōu-style garden to practise taichi, play Chinese music or simply relax among its lotus ponds and bamboo groves. The Victorian-style Lou Lim Ieoc Garden Pavilion was where the Lou family received guests, including Dr Sun Yatsen, and is now used for exhibitions. Adjacent to the garden is the Macao Tea Culture House, displaying Chinese tea-drinking culture with exhibits of teapots and paintings related to the coveted drink.

Lou Lim Ieoc Garden PavilionNOTABLE BUILDING

(盧廉若公園, Pavilhão do Jardim de Lou Lim Ieoc MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8988 4100; 10 Estrada de Adolfo de Loureiro; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg2, 2A, 5, 9, 9A, 12, 16)

Inside the Chinese-style Lou Lim Ieoc Garden, you'll find this Victorian-style pavilion featuring classical and Chinese architectural elements. It was where the wealthy Lou family once received their guests, including Dr Sun Yatsen. It is now used for art exhibitions and recitals during the Macau International Music Festival in late October/November.

Macao Tea Culture HouseMUSEUM

(澳門茶文化館, Caultura do Chá em Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 7103; Lou Lim Ieoc Garden, Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg2, 2A, 5, 9, 9A, 12, 16)icon-freeF

Adjacent to the picturesque Lou Lim Ieoc Garden, this museum introduces tea-drinking culture with exhibits of teapots and 'tea paintings'. The latter were produced by foreign and local painters (sometimes in a collaborative relationship) for sale to Westerners in China's trade ports. The museum is housed in a colonial mansion with southern European features and a Chinese tiled roof. There's free tea tasting every Saturday and Sunday from 3pm to 4pm.

Luís de Camões Garden & GrottoGARDENS

(白鴿巢公園, Jardim e Gruta de Luís de Camões MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Praça de Luís de Camões; icon-hoursgifh6am-10pm; icon-busgifg8A, 17, 26)

This relaxing garden with dappled meandering paths is dedicated to the one-eyed poet Luís de Camões (1524–80), who is said to have written part of his epic Os Lusíadas in Macau, though there is little evidence that he ever reached the city. You'll see a bronze bust (c 1886) of the man here. The wooded garden attracts a fair number of chess players, bird owners and Chinese shuttlecock kickers. The Sr Wong Ieng Kuan Library (白鴿巢公園黃營均圖書館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2895 3075; Praça de Luís de Camões; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm Tue-Sun) is also here.

Sun Yat Sen Memorial HouseMUSEUM

(國父紀念館, Casa Memorativa de Doutor Sun Yat Sen MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2857 4064; 1 Rua de Silva Mendes; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Wed-Mon; icon-busgifg2, 2A, 5, 9, 9A, 12)icon-freeF

This mock Moorish house (c 1910) commemorates Dr Sun Yatsen's (1866–1925) brief stay in Macau, where he gathered support to overthrow the Qing dynasty. You'll see documents and personal belongings of the 'Father of the Chinese Republic'. Interestingly Sun himself had never lived in the house, though it was built by his son, and his first wife Lu Muzhen lived here until she died in 1952.

Ox WarehouseARTS CENTRE

(牛房倉庫, Armazem de Boi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2853 0026; http://oxwarehouse.blogspot.com; cnr Avenida do Coronel Mesquita & Avenida do Almirante Lacerda; icon-hoursgifhnoon-7pm Wed-Mon; icon-busgifg4, 5, 25, 26A, 33)icon-freeF

This atmospheric former slaughterhouse is run by a nonprofit that hosts contemporary exhibitions, workshops and performances by local and visiting artists. Much of the work is engagingly experiential. Even if nothing's on, the architecture of the old buildings here makes it worthwhile to come for a peek.

Church of St AnthonyCHURCH

(聖安多尼教堂, Igreja de Santo António MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rua de Santo António & Rua do Tarrafeiro; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-5.30pm; icon-busgifg8A, 17, 26)

This stern-looking grey stone church, built from 1558 to 1608 and renovated in 1930, is one of Macau's oldest, and the Jesuits' earliest headquarters. The local Portuguese used to hold wedding ceremonies here, hence the church’s name in Cantonese: Fa Vong Tong (Church of Flowers).

Old Protestant CemeteryCEMETERY

(基督教墳場, Antigo Cemitério Protestante MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 Praça de Luís de Camões; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm; icon-busgifg8A, 17, 26)

As church law forbade the burial of non-Catholics on hallowed ground, this cemetery was established in 1821 as the last resting place of (mostly Anglophone) Protestants. Among those interred here are Irish-born artist George Chinnery (1774–1852), and Robert Morrison (1782–1834), the first Protestant missionary to China and author of the first Chinese-English dictionary.

Lin Fung TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(蓮峰廟, Lin Fung Miu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida do Almirante Lacerda; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm; icon-busgifg1A, 8, 8A, 10, 28B)

Dedicated to Kun Iam, the Goddess of Mercy, this Temple of the Lotus was built in 1592, but underwent several reconstructions from the 17th century. It used to host mandarins from Guǎngdōng province when they visited Macau. The most famous of these imperial visitors was Commissioner Lin Zexu, who was charged with stamping out the opium trade.

Red MarketMARKET

(紅街市大樓, Mercado Almirante Lacerda MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Avenida do Almirante Lacerda & Avenida Horta e Costa; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-7.30pm; icon-busgifg23, 32)

Designed by Macanese architect Júlio Alberto Basto, this three-storey art-deco building with a clocktower houses a lively wet market. It was so-named because of the red bricks used in its construction.

Kun Iam TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(觀音廟, Templo de Kun Iam MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Avenida do Coronel Mesquita; icon-hoursgifh7am-5.30pm; icon-busgifg1A, 10, 18A, stop Travessa de Venceslau de Morais)

Macau’s oldest temple was founded in the 13th century, but the present structures date back to 1627. Its roofs are embellished with porcelain figurines and its halls are lavishly decorated. Inside the main one stands the likeness of Kun Iam, the Goddess of Mercy; to the left of the altar is a statue of a bearded arhat rumoured to represent Marco Polo. The first Sino-American treaty was signed at a round stone table in the temple's terraced gardens in 1844.

Rotunda de Carlos da MaiaSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The lively Three Lamps district, known for its Burmese immigrant community, encompasses a series of streets packed with vendors and street food. It centres on the Rotunda de Carlos da Maia square.

MACAU PENINSULA TRANSPORT

For information on getting to, from and around Macau Peninsula, see the Transport Chapter.

1Southern Macau Peninsula

icon-top-choiceoMacau Museum of ArtMUSEUM

(澳門藝術博物館, Museu de Arte de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8791 9814; www.mam.gov.mo; Macau Cultural Centre, Avenida Xian Xing Hai; adult/child MOP$5/2, Sun free; icon-hoursgifh10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg1A, 8, 12, 23)

This excellent five-storey museum has well-curated displays of art created in Macau and China, including paintings by Western artists like George Chinnery, who lived in the enclave. Other highlights are ceramics and stoneware excavated in Macau, Ming- and Qing-dynasty calligraphy from Guǎngdōng, ceramic statues from Shíwān (Guǎngdōng) and seal carvings. The museum also features 19th-century Western historical paintings from all over Asia, and contemporary Macanese art.

Penha HillAREA

(西望洋山, Colina da Penha MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-busgifg6, 9, 16)

Towering above the colonial villas along Avenida da República is Penha Hill, the most tranquil and least-visited area of the peninsula. From here you’ll get excellent views of the central area of Macau. Atop the hill is the Bishop’s Palace (主教府 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Penha Hill), built in 1837 and a residence for bishops (not open to the public), and the Chapel of Our Lady of Penha (主教山小堂, Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Penha MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Penha Hill; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm; icon-busgifg6B, 9, 16, 28B), once a place of pilgrimage for sailors.

Avenida da RepúblicaAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-busgifg6, 9, 16)

Avenida da República, along the northwest shore of Sai Van Lake, is Macau's oldest Portuguese quarter. There are several grand colonial villas not open to the public here. The former Bela Vista Hotel, one of the most-storied hotels in Asia, is now the Residence of the Portuguese Consul-General (葡國駐澳門領事官邸; Consulado-Geral de Portugal em Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Boa Vista). Nearby is the ornate Santa Sancha Palace, once the residence of Macau’s Portuguese governors, and now used to accommodate state guests. Not too far away are beautiful, abandoned art deco–inspired buildings.

Macau TowerLANDMARK

(澳門旅遊塔, Torre de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2893 3339; www.macautower.com.mo; Largo da Torre de Macau; observation deck adult/child MOP$135/70; icon-hoursgifh10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; icon-busgifg9A, 18, 23, 26, 32)

At 338m, Macau Tower looms above the narrow isthmus of land southeast of Avenida da República. You can stay put on the observation decks on the 58th and 61st floors, or challenge yourself to some gravity-defying sport: the tower hosts a climbing wall, a bungee platform (said to be the highest commercial bungee jump in the world), a sky walk around the rim of the tower and more.

Macao Science CentreMUSEUM

(澳門科學館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.msc.org.mo; Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen; adult/child MOP$25/15, planetarium MOP$60; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Fri-Wed; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg3A, 8, 10A, 12)

In an IM Pei–designed silvery spiral of a building on the waterfront, this modern science museum is one of Macau's best places to take kids. Fourteen exhibition areas have fun, hands-on exhibits on subjects ranging from music to robotics. The 3D planetarium is always a hit.

Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

(海事博物館, Museu Marítimo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2859 5481; www.museumaritimo.gov.mo; 1 Largo do Pagode da Barra; adult MOP$3-10, child free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Wed-Mon; icon-busgifg1, 2, 5, 6B, 7, 10)

The highlights here are the interactive displays detailing the maritime histories of Portugal and China, the artefacts from Macau’s seafaring past, and the mock-ups of boats – including the long, narrow dragon boats used during the Dragon Boat Festival – and a Hakka fishing village.

Grand Prix MuseumMUSEUM

(大賽車博物館, Museu do Grande Prémio MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8798 4108; Basement, CAT, 431 Rua de Luís Gonzaga Gomes; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Wed-Mon; icon-busgifg1A, 3, 10)icon-freeF

Cars from the Macau Formula 3 Grand Prix, including the bright-red Triumph TR2 driven by Eduardo de Carvalho that won the first Grand Prix in 1954, are on display here, while simulators let you test your racing skills.

From early 2017, the museum is scheduled to close for two to three years for a complete renovation.

Moorish BarracksHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calcada da Barra, Barra Hill; icon-busgifg18, 28)

These former barracks (c 1874) were designed by an Italian in a neoclassical style inspired by Moorish architecture to accommodate Muslim Indian policemen from Goa. The confusion of Muslims with Moors was due to the fact that dated Cantonese refers to Indians as ‘moh loh cha’, and ‘moh loh’ is a transliteration of ‘Moorish’. You can't enter the building, now occupied by the Macau Maritime Administration.

Macau Cultural CentreNOTABLE BUILDING

(澳門文化中心, Centro Cultural de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2870 0699; www.ccm.gov.mo; Avenida Xian Xing Hai; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg1A, 8, 12, 23)

This US$100-million, 45,000-sq-metre contemporary concrete structure is the territory’s prime venue for cultural performances, from dance to theatre to multimedia shows. Creative Macau, an art space that runs exhibitions and poetry readings, is on the ground floor.

Creative MacauGALLERY

(創意空間 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2875 3282; www.creativemacau.org.mo; Ground fl, Macau Cultural Centre, Avenida Xian Xing Hai; icon-hoursgifh2-7pm Mon-Sat; icon-busgifg1A, 8, 12, 23)

This space managed by a nonprofit organisation aims at promoting and enhancing the potentials of Macau's creative industries. You'll find here exhibitions of works by a spectrum of industries, from advertising and architecture to publishing and fashion design.

A-Ma TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

(媽閣廟, Templo de A-Ma MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua de São Tiago da Barra; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm; icon-busgifg1, 2, 5, 6B, 7)

A-Ma Temple was probably already standing when the Portuguese arrived, although the present structure may date from the 16th century. It was here that fisherfolk once came to replenish supplies and pray for fair weather. A-Ma, aka Tin Hau, is the goddess of the sea, from which the name Macau is derived. It's believed that when the Portuguese asked the name of the place, they were told ‘A-Ma Gau’ (A-Ma Bay). In modern Cantonese, ‘Macau’ (Ou Mun) means ‘gateway of the bay’.

Fisherman's WharfAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )icon-freeF

Is that a volcano you see from the ferry window while arriving at the Macau terminal? Why yes, that's Fisherman's Wharf, the beyond-cheesy theme park/dining/shopping complex along the waterfront. The area features buildings made to resemble various landmarks from history and mythology: a mock Colosseum, a Babylonian-themed casino, a half-timbered shopping strip resembling Ye Olde Bavaria. Perpetually empty, the Wharf is only recommendable for kitsch fans seeking bizarro photo opportunities.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoLung Wah Tea HouseCANTONESE$

(龍華茶樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2857 4456; 3 Rua Norte do Mercado Aim-Lacerda; dim sum from MOP$14, tea MOP$10, meals MOP$50-180; icon-hoursgifh7am-2pm; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg23, 32)

There’s grace in the retro furniture and the casual way it’s thrown together in this airy Cantonese teahouse (c 1963). Take a booth by the windows overlooking the Red Market, where the teahouse buys its produce every day. There’s no English menu; just point and take. Lung Wah sells a fine array of Chinese teas.

O PortoMACANESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2859 4643; 17 Travessa da Praia; meals MOP$160; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-10pm Thu-Tue; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg2, 10, 12)

Not to be confused with O Porto Interior on Rua do Almirante Sérgio, this modest place serves decent and affordable Macanese dishes, with a few luxuries: chequered tablecloths, football paraphernalia and warm service. It’s near the steps leading to Mong Há Hill.

Cheong KeiCANTONESE$

(祥記麵家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2857 4310; 68 Rua da Felicidade; noodles MOP$20-55; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11.30pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

Peak-time queues at the door even before the Michelin recommendation are a clue that this long-standing noodle joint has a loyal following. Try the noodles tossed with shrimp roe. There are just a few communal tables; be prepared to bump elbows with the locals.

Nga HeongBURMESE$

(雅馨緬甸餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2855 2711; 27 Rua de Fernao Mendes Pinto; mains MOP$25-45; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-6.30pm; icon-busgifg23, 32)

In Macau's Three Lamps district, an area known for its Burmese immigrants, this popular two-floor greasy spoon dishes out home-style Burmese classics like coconut chicken noodles, braised pig ear salad and shrimp paste–fragrant greens. There's an English menu with pictures.

icon-top-choiceoClube Militar de MacauPORTUGUESE$$

(陸軍俱樂部 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2871 4000; 975 Avenida da Praia Grande; meals MOP$150-400; icon-hoursgifh1.45-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Sat & Sun; icon-busgifg6, 28C)

Housed in a distinguished colonial building, with fans spinning lazily above, the Military Club takes you back in time to a slower and quieter Macau. The simple and delicious Portuguese fare is complemented by an excellent selection of wine and cheese from Portugal. The MOP$153 buffet is excellent value. Reservations are required for dinner and weekend lunches.

A LorchaMACANESE, PORTUGUESE$$

(船屋葡國餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2831 3193; www.alorcha.com; 289 Rua do Almirante Sérgio; meals MOP$300-500; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg1, 5, 10)

‘The Sailboat’ is listed in every guidebook. One reason for its popularity is that it’s within walking distance of the A-Ma Temple. Don’t expect outstanding creativity, but solid Portuguese and Macanese fare. Portions are generous.

icon-top-choiceoGuincho a GaleraPORTUGUESE$$$

(葡囯餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8803 7676; www.hotelisboa.com; 3rd fl, Hotel Lisboa, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa; meals MOP$550-1800; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; icon-busgifg3, 10)

The international branch of Portugal's famous Fortaleza do Guincho, this luxuriously decorated restaurant brings Portuguese haute cuisine to Macau. The menu features well-executed classical dishes, with a couple of Macanese additions. Set meals are available at lunch (from MOP$310) and dinner (from MOP$630).

Robuchon au DômeFRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8803 7878; www.grandlisboahotel.com; 43rd fl, Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida de Lisboa; lunch/dinner set menu from MOP$598/1688; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; icon-busgifg3, 10)

Encased in a glass dome, this is arguably the most tastefully decorated of the casino restaurants. And as one of two Macau restaurants with three Michelin stars, it has everything you’d associate with the celebrated Robuchon name: fine decor, exquisite Gallic creations and impeccable service. The wine cellar with 8000 bottles is one of the best in Asia.

Tim’s KitchenCHINESE$$$

(桃花源小廚 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8803 3682; www.hotelisboa.com; Shop F25, East Wing, Hotel Lisboa, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa; meals MOP$300-1500; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

At Tim's, with one Michelin star, fresh ingredients are meticulously prepared using methods that preserve or highlight their original flavours, resulting in dishes that look simple but taste divine – a giant ‘glass’ prawn shares a plate with a sliver of Chinese ham; a crab claw lounges on a cushion of wintermelon surrounded by broth.

EightCANTONESE$$$

(8餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8803 7788; www.grandlisboahotel.com; 2nd fl, Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida de Lisboa; meals MOP$160-1500; icon-hoursgifhlunch 11.30am-2pm Mon-Sat, brunch 10am-3pm Sun, dinner 6.30-10.30pm; icon-busgifg3, 10, 28B)

With water (a symbol for money) cascading down the wall, crystal-dripping chandeliers and an auspicious numeral for a name, the Eight can only belong to a casino. Granted, it’s a stellar restaurant set apart from similar places by its solid dim sum, the chef’s creativity and three Michelin stars. Getting a table is almost impossible without a reservation.

La PalomaSPANISH, MEDITERRANEAN$$$

(芭朗瑪餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2837 8111; www.saotiago.com.mo; 2nd fl, Pousada de São Tiago, Avenida da República; meals MOP$250-800; icon-hoursgifh7am-11pm; icon-busgifg9)

'The Dove' sits on the foundations of a 17th-century fortress – one of Macau's most romantic spots and a welcome change from the casino restaurants. Hence any meal or drink here – be it a protracted Spanish feast under modern chandeliers or a glass of vinho do porto (port wine) on the terrace – should be accompanied by a walk around the premises.

EATING PRICE RANGES

$ less than MOP$200

$$ MOP$200-400

$$$ more than MOP$400

6Drinking & Nightlife

icon-top-choiceoMacau SoulBAR

(澳感廊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2836 5182; www.macausoul.com; 31a Rua de São Paulo; icon-hoursgifh3-10pm Wed & Thu, to midnight Fri-Sun; icon-busgifg8A, 17, 26)

An elegant haven in wood and stained glass, where twice a month a jazz band plays to a packed audience. On most nights, though, Thelonious Monk fills the air as customers chat with the owners and dither over their 430 Portuguese wines. Opening hours vary; phone ahead.

icon-top-choiceoSingle OriginCOFFEE

(單品 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 6698 7475; 19 Rua de Abreu Nunes; coffee MOP$35; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg2, 4, 7, 7A, 8)

This airy corner cafe opened by coffee professional Keith Fong makes a mean shot of espresso. You can choose your poison from a daily selection of 10 beans from various regions. If you can't decide, the well-trained barristas are more than happy to help.

Lion's BarCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8802 2375; www.mgmmacau.com/lion-bar; MGM Grand, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen; icon-hoursgifh7pm-5am Thu-Tue)

Sleekly dressed revellers dance to the house DJ and band at this open-till-5am bar and club in the MGM Grand, your best bet for Vegas-style debauchery in Macau.

Terra Coffee HouseCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2893 7943; 1 Largo de St Agostinho; icon-hoursgifh11am-8pm; icon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg9, 16)

This tiny haven overlooking pretty St Augustine Sq will make you forget you're only a five-minute walk away from heaving Largo do Senado. Stop here for a strong and carefully crafted cuppa after visiting the nearby Sir Robert Ho Tung Library.

Sky 21 LoungeLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2822 2122; www.sky21macau.com; 21st fl, AIA Tower, 215a-301 Avenida Comercial de Macau; icon-hoursgifh6.30pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, happy hour 5-9pm; icon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg18, 23, 32)

Zen and cyber come together in this sleek lounge-bar with alfresco seating and panoramic views. It has a DJ and live jazz on some days of the week, and special parties on Saturdays.

CinnebarBAR

(霞酒廊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8986 3663; Ground fl, Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Novos Aterros do Porto Exterior; icon-hoursgifh3pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg8, 10A, 23)

Cinnebar has a fantastic combination of swish and casual: classy surroundings indoors and a relaxed atmosphere in its outdoor seating area around the swimming pool. Some exotically blended cocktails are served in this lobby bar.

MACAU CHOW

A typical Macanese menu features an enticing stew of influences from Chinese and South Asian cuisines, and the cooking of former Portuguese colonies in Africa, India and Latin America. Coconut, tamarind, chilli, jaggery (palm sugar) and shrimp paste can all feature.

A famous Macanese speciality is galinha africana (African chicken), made with coconut, garlic and chillies. Other popular dishes include casquinha (stuffed crab), minchi (minced meat cooked with potatoes and onions) and serradura (a milk pudding).

You’ll find Portuguese dishes here too, such as arroz de pato (rice with duck confit) and leitão assado no forno (roasted suckling pig).

3Entertainment

icon-top-choiceoLive Music AssociationLIVE MUSIC

(LMA; 現場音樂協會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/LMA.Macau; 11b San Mei Industrial Bldg, 50 Avenida do Coronel Mesquita; icon-busgifg3, 9, 32, 12, 25)

The go-to place for indie music in Macau, this excellent dive inside an industrial building has hosted local and overseas acts, including Cold Cave, Buddhistson, Mio Myo and Pet Conspiracy. See the website for what's on. Macau indie bands to watch out for include WhyOceans (www.whyoceans.com) and Turtle Giant (www.turtlegiant.com).

Wynn Macau CasinoCASINO

(永利娛樂場 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2888 9966; www.wynnmacau.com; Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Novos Aterros do Porto Exterior; icon-busgifg8, 10A)

Despite the outdoor 'Performance Lake', which gives a fountain show every 15 minutes to the tune of 'Money Makes the World Go Round' or Chinese tunes, the Wynn is one of Macau's more tranquil casino complexes. The gaming floors are relatively hushed, as is the small posh shopping area. Less quiet is the Dragon of Fortune show in the Rotunda atrium, where every half an hour a golden animatronic dragon emerges from the floor breathing smoke. Other draws for the non-gambler include a 24-carat gold tree that rises from the floor on the half hour, and an aquarium full of moon jellyfish.

MGM Grand MacauCASINO

(澳門美高梅 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mgm.mo; Grande Praça, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen; icon-busgifg8, 3A, 12)

With softly lit casino floors and a bland upmarket shopping mall, you might think the MGM is less flashy than its brethren. But then you walk into the Grande Praça, a vast domed indoor plaza based on the streets of old Lisbon, centred on a ceiling-high tube-shaped aquarium of tropical fish.

Sands CasinoCASINO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2888 3330; www.sandsmacao.com; Largo de Monte Carlo 203; icon-busgifg8, 3A, 12)

One of the peninsula's older international casinos, the Sands' gaming floors have a somewhat dated, midrange-hotel-lobby vibe. Within walking distance of the ferry dock, it has fewer entertainment and dining options than the Cotai casinos.

Rui Cunha FoundationCULTURAL CENTRE

(官樂怡基金會, Fundacao Rui Cunha MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2892 3288; http://ruicunha.org; 749 Avenida da Praia Grande; icon-hoursgifhgallery 10am-7pm; icon-busgifg2A, 6A, 7A, 8)

From its airy venue in the heart of the peninsula, this foundation promotes the Macau identity through a carefully curated series of art exhibitions, literary readings and recitals. These are held alongside thought-provoking seminars on Macau’s legal and social systems.

Sun Never Left – Public Art PerformanceLIVE MUSIC

(黃昏小叙-街頭藝術表演 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cipa.org.mo; Rua de Sao Roque; icon-hoursgifh3-6pm Sat & Sun; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg7, 8)

Every weekend, artists at St Lazarus Church District set up shop on the picturesque Rua de Sao Roque, selling art and handicrafts. Buy coffee from a nearby cafe and sip it as you browse and enjoy the live music.

Grand Lisboa CasinoCASINO

(新葡京 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2838 2828; www.grandlisboa.com; Avenida de Lisboa, Macau Peninsula; icon-busgifg3, 10)

A golden lotus-shaped tower, the delightfully tacky Grand Lisboa has become the landmark by which people navigate the peninsula's streets. Its four gaming floors are always jam-packed with serious gamblers. Less populated is the free daily 'Crazy Paris' cabaret dance show at the bar.

7Shopping

Macau Design CentreGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2852 0335; www.dcmacau.com/en; Travessa da Fabrica 5; icon-hoursgifh11am-7pm; icon-busgifg1A, 2, 6A, 8, 8A, 10, 12, 19, 22, 28B, 28BX, 28C, 34)

In a gritty working-class neighbourhood, this shop/gallery/exhibition space showcases Macau designers. Look out for handmade ceramics, high-quality leather bags, trendy clothes, framed graphics and more.

Livraria PortuguesaBOOKS, GIFTS

(Portuguese Bookstore; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2851 5915; Rua de São Domingos 18; icon-hoursgifh11am-7pm; icon-busgifg3, 4, 6A, 8A, 19, 33)

Right in the heart of Macau's historic district, this two-storey bookshop carries both English and Portuguese titles, including some hard-to-find Macanese cookbooks. It also stocks gift items, like imported Portuguese soaps and perfumes. Founded more than 30 years ago, it's one of the few places in Macau where you can reliably hear Portuguese spoken.

Mercearia PortuguesaFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2856 2708; www.merceariaportuguesa.com; 8 Calçada da Igreja de São Lazaro; icon-hoursgifh1-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat & Sun; icon-busgifg7, 8)

The charming Portuguese corner shop opened by a film director and actress has a small but well-curated selection of provisions, which includes honey, chinaware, wooden toys and jewellery from Portugal – gorgeously packaged and reasonably priced.

Pinto LivrosBOOKS

(邊度有書 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://blog.roodo.com/pintolivros; 1a Veng Heng Bldg, 31 Largo do Senado; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26A)

This upstairs reading room overlooking Largo do Senado has a decent selection of titles in art and culture, a few esoteric CDs and two resident cats.

Futura ClassicaCOSMETICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2835 8378; 1A Calçada da Rocha; icon-hoursgifhnoon-8pm; icon-busgifg3, 6, 26 A, 18A, 33)

This dizzyingly sweet-smelling shop is the Asian distributor of Claus Porto, a Portuguese brand of luxury soap and beauty products. It's a great place to shop for souvenirs. Prices range from MOP$50 to MOP$1000.

Worker PlaygroundCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2875 7511; Ground fl, Edificio Cheung Seng, 83a Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida; icon-hoursgifh3-10pm; icon-busgifg)

Worker Playground makes solid-quality baseball jackets, biker pants, and fashionably androgynous garments for men and women. The brand pays tribute to the old Workers’ Stadium, a nostalgic landmark that was razed to make way for the Grand Lisboa Casino.

Macao Fashion GalleryCLOTHING

(澳門時尚廊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2835 3341; www.macaofashiongallery.com; 47 Rua de São Roque; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg7, 8)

This place comprises a boutique on the ground floor displaying the creations of Macau designers and a (underwhelming) gallery on the upper floors with exhibitions that change every three months and showcase fashion-related artefacts.

Lines LabCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lineslab.com; Shop A3, 8 Calçada da Igreja de São Lazaro; icon-hoursgifh1-8pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg7, 8)

Two Lisbon-trained designers opened this boutique in the Old Ladies’ House art space and created edgy Macau-inspired clothes and bags for it.

2Sports & Activities

Guia Hill Hiking CircuitHIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

There are two trails on Guia Hill in central Macau Peninsula that are good for a stroll or jog. The Walk of 33 Curves (1.7km) circles the hill; inside this loop is the shorter Fitness Circuit Walk, with 20 exercise stations. You can access these by the Guia cable car.

AJ HackettADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 988 8656; http://macau.ajhackett.com; Largo da Torre de Macau; icon-hoursgifh11am-7.30pm, later on Fri & Sat & during summer)

New Zealand–based AJ Hackett organises all kinds of adventure climbs, bungee jumps and more on the Macau Tower.

Gray LineTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2833 6611; www.grayline.com.hk; Room 1015, ground fl, Macau Ferry Terminal; 10hr tour adult/child 3-11yr MOP$1275/1200 incl ferry ticket to Hong Kong)

Quality tours organised by the Macau Government Tourist Office and tendered to agents take around 10 hours.

The Islands: Taipa, Coloane & Cotai

Explore

The islands of Taipa, Cotai and Coloane are more like one big island these days, thanks to land reclamation. Head to Taipa for dining and shopping in the narrow streets of old Taipa Village. Visit the new area of Cotai (created by infilling marsh between Taipa and Coloane, hence the name) to gamble and gawk at the biggest casinos on earth. Go south to Coloane for beachy getaways and long Portuguese lunches.

The Best…

ASight Taipa Houses-Museum

APlace to Eat António

APlace to Drink Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge

Top Tip

Cycling is a great way to see Taipa and Coloane. In Taipa, 有記士多 on 11 Rua dos Negociantes, near Pak Tai Temple, has bikes for rent. In Coloane, Dang Rang (東榮單車行) on Rua do Meio, does the same.

Getting There & Away

AShuttle Free shuttle buses run from the ferry terminals and the border gates to the casinos of Cotai; anyone can ride, not just hotel guests.

ABus Public bus 25 goes all the way from the Peninsula's northern border gate, through Taipa and Cotai and all the way to Coloane ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ); 26A covers a similar route.

ATaxi There are plenty of taxi queues around the casinos in Cotai, but expect long lines and refusals to take you to far-flung locations (ie Coloane).

Need to Know

Area Code 853

ALocation Taipa is 2.5km from Macau Peninsula and 39.3km away from Hong Kong; Cotai is 3km from Macau Peninsula and 39.3km from Hong Kong; Coloane is 5.6km from Macau Peninsula and 39.3km from Hong Kong.

ATourist Office (澳門旅遊局; Macau Government Tourism Office GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2886 1418; www.macautourism.gov.mo; Macau International Airport; icon-hoursgifh10am-10pm) There is a MGTO information counter at the Taipa Temporary Ferry Terminal.

1Sights

1Taipa

icon-top-choiceoTaipa VillageVILLAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-busgifg22, 26, 33)

The historical part of Taipa is best preserved in this village in the south of the district. An intricate warren of alleys hold traditional Chinese shops and some excellent restaurants, while the broader main roads are punctuated by colonial villas, churches and temples. Rua do Cunha, the main pedestrian drag, is lined with vendors hawking free samples of Macanese almond cookies and beef jerky, and tiny cafes selling egg tarts and serradura pudding. Avenida da Praia, a tree-lined esplanade with wrought-iron benches, is perfect for a leisurely stroll.

Taipa Houses-MuseumMUSEUM

(龍環葡韻住宅式博物館, Casa Museum da Taipa MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 7103; Avenida da Praia, Carmo Zone, Taipa Village; adult/student MOP$5/2, child & senior free, Sun free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg11, 15, 22, 28A, 30, 33, 34)

The pastel-coloured villas (c 1921) here were the summer residences of wealthy Macanese. House of the Regions of Portugal showcases Portuguese costumes. House of the Islands looks at the history of Taipa and Coloane, with displays on traditional industries, such as fishing and the manufacture of fireworks. Macanese House offers a snapshot of life in the early 20th century.

Museum of Taipa & Coloane HistoryMUSEUM

(路氹歷史館, Museu da História da Taipa e Coloane MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 5361; Rua Correia da Silva, Taipa; adult/student MOP$5/2, child & senior free, Tue free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg11, 15, 22, 28A, 30, 33, 34)

This museum has a display of excavated relics and other artefacts on the 1st floor, while the 2nd floor contains religious objects, handicrafts and architectural models.

Pak Tai TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Regedor; icon-busgifg22, 28A, 26)

Pak Tai Temple sits quietly in a breezy square framed by old trees. It is dedicated to a martial deity – the Taoist God (Tai) of the North (Pak) – who defeated the Demon King who was terrorising the universe. A pair of Chinese lions guards the entrance to the temple. On the third day of the third lunar month each year, Cantonese opera performances take place here.

Church of Our Lady of CarmelCHURCH

(Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Carmo; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue da Restauração, Taipa Village; icon-busgifg22, 28A, 26)

Built in 1885, this lovely yellow neoclassical church stands on a hill overlooking the harbour, scenic Taipa Village and the pastel-coloured Taipa Houses-Museum. On weekends, expect to see dozens of couples taking wedding photos here.

Pou Tai TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(菩提禪院, Pou Tai Un GOOGLE MAP ; 5 Estrada Lou Lim Ieok; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm; icon-busgifg21A, 22, 25, 25X, 26A, 28A)

A picturesque temple founded in the 19th century by Buddhist monks, Pou Tai has an enormous bronze statue of Lord Gautama in its main hall, and prayer pavilions and orchid greenhouses scattered around the complex. The monks also operate a vegetarian restaurant.

1Coloane

Macau Giant Panda PavilionZOO

(大熊貓館, Pavihao do Panda Gigante de Macau GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2833 7676; www.macaupanda.org.mo; Seac Pai Van Park, Coloane; MOP$10; icon-hoursgifh10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg15, 21A, 25, 26, 26A, 50)

Coloane offers a convenient and inexpensive opportunity to see pandas. The pair of cuddly ones are kept inside a purpose-built pavilion inside Seac Pai Van Park. There are six hour-long viewing sessions daily, from 10am to 4pm. Other animals on display include peacocks, monkeys and a toucan.

Twin pandas were born here this summer and have been a big draw

Hác Sá BeachBEACH

(黑沙海灘 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-busgifg21A, 25, 26A)

Hác Sá (Black Sand) is Macau's most popular beach. The sand is indeed a blackish colour and makes the water look somewhat dirty, but it’s natural. Lifeguards are on duty from May to October. The stalls just off the beach rent out parasols for MOP$60 a day, with a MOP$100 deposit (but you'll need to bring your parasol back).

Chapel of St Francis XavierCHURCH

(聖方濟各教堂, Capela de São Francisco Xavier MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Caetano, Largo Eduardo Marques, Coloane; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm; icon-busgifg15, 21A, 25, 26A)

This chapel built in 1928 contains paintings of the infant Christ with a Chinese Madonna, and other reminders of Christianity and colonialism in Asia. It’s a quirky place painted in yellow and embellished with red lanterns. In front of the chapel are a monument and fountain surrounded by four cannonballs that commemorate the successful – and final – routing of pirates in 1910.

Cheoc Van BeachBEACH

(竹灣海灘 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Estrada de Cheoc Van; icon-busgifg21A, 25, 26A)

About 1.5km down Estrada de Cheoc Van, which runs east and then southeast from Coloane village, is the beach at Cheoc Van (Bamboo Bay). It's smaller but somewhat cleaner than Hác Sá beach. There are changing rooms and toilets and, in season, lifeguards on duty (from 10am to 6pm Monday to Saturday, from 9am to 6pm Sunday, May to October). There's also a large public outdoor pool.

Tam Kung TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

(譚公廟 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida de Cinco de Outubro, Coloane village; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm; icon-busgifg15, 21A, 25, 26A)

This temple is dedicated to Tam Kung, a Taoist god of seafarers. Inside the main altar is a long whale bone carved into a model of a dragon boat. To the left of the main altar is a path leading to the roof, which has views of the village and waterfront.

A-Ma Statue & TempleMEMORIAL

(媽祖像及媽閣廟, Estátua da Deusa A-Ma GOOGLE MAP ; Estrada do Alto de Coloane; icon-hoursgifhtemple 8am-7.30pm)

Atop Alto de Coloane (176m), this 20m-high white jade statue of the goddess who gave Macau its name was erected in 1998. It's the best part of a touristy 'cultural village', which also features Tian Hou Temple. A free bus runs from the A-Ma ornamental entrance gate (媽祖文化村石牌坊) on Estrada de Seac Pai Van (bus 21A, 25, 50) half-hourly from 8am to 6pm. You can also reach both by following the Coloane Trail (Trilho de Coloane) from Seac Pai Van Park.

Coloane LibraryLIBRARY

(路環圖書館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua de Cinco de Outubro, Coloane; icon-hoursgifh1-7pm Mon-Sat; icon-busgifg21A, 25, 26A)

This buttercup-yellow mini Grecian temple, built in 1917, still functions as a public library.

Seac Pai Van ParkPARK

(石排灣郊野公園 GOOGLE MAP ; Estrada de Seac Pai Van; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm Tue-Sun, aviary 9am-5pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg21A, 26A, 50)icon-freeF

At the end of Cotai, this 20-hectare park, built in the wooded hills on the western side of the island, has somewhat unkempt gardens, the Macau Giant Panda Pavilion, a lake with swans and other waterfowl, and a walk-through aviary.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

COLOANE'S STILT HOUSES

Macau was a fishing village before gambling was legalised in the mid-19th century. Now the only vestiges of that idyllic past are found in Coloane.

Along the coastline, on Rua dos Navegantes in Coloane's old fishing village, there are a few stilt houses and shipyards. These huts of colourful corrugated metal, extending like chunky chopsticks out into the harbour, were once landing spots for houseboats. A couple have been turned into dried seafood shops, such as Loja de Peixe Tong Kei (棠記魚舖) at Largo do Cais, the square just off the charming old pier of Coloane.

From the square, take the slope to the right of the Servicos de Alfangega building. After two minutes, you'll see the cavernous cadaver of a shipyard, also on stilts.

5Eating

5Taipa

icon-top-choiceoTai Lei LoiCHINESE$

(大利来 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 7150; www.taileiloi.com.mo; 42 Rua dos Clérigos, Taipa Village; buns MOP$40; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg22, 26)

South China's most famous pork-chop bun is made here – a shop founded in 1960 as a street stall by the mother of the current owner. Succulent slices of pork (or slivers of fish) are coupled with warm, chewy buns that emerge from the oven daily at 2pm sharp.

Pou Tai Temple RestaurantCHINESE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 5 Estrada Lou Lim Ieok, Taipa; meals MOP$40-120; icon-hoursgifh11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; icon-veggifvicon-familygifc)

The two vegetarian restaurants (one more formal, one more casual), set in Pou Tai Temple in northern Taipa, are a great find.

A PetisqueiraPORTUGUESE$$

(葡國美食天地 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 5354; 15 Rua de São João, Taipa village; meals MOP$150-500; icon-hoursgifh12.30-2.15pm & 6.45-10pm Tue-Sun; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg22, 28A)

Set in an obscure alley, ‘The Snackery’ is an amicable place with myriad Portuguese choices. It serves its own queijo fresca da casa (homemade cheese). Try the bacalao (cod) five ways, and baked seafood with rice.

BanzaPORTUGUESE$$

(百姓餐廳 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 1519; 154a & b, G & H, Block 5, Edificio Nam San Garden, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa; meals MOP$200-500; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm Tue-Sun; icon-busgifg11, 16, 28A)

Off the beaten track, this welcoming place run by a Portuguese former lawyer is known for its well-executed fish dishes and Portuguese classics. If you’d like, Banza could also recommend a bottle from his interesting selection of Portuguese wines.

O SantosPORTUGUESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 7508; www.osantoscomidaportuguesa.com; 20 Rua da Cunha, Taipa village; meals MOP$200-350; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Wed-Mon; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg22, 26)

Despite its location on the touristy Rua da Cunha, charming O Santos keeps its standards up. Patrons have been coming back for the chicken and rice in blood and friendly banter with the owner (a former naval chef) for 20 years.

icon-top-choiceoAntónioPORTUGUESE$$$

(安東尼奧 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2888 8668; www.antoniomacau.com; 7 Rua dos Clérigos, Taipa Village; meals MOP$350-1200; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight; icon-busgifg22, 26)

The cosy mahogany-framed dining room, the meticulously thought-out menu and the entertaining chef, António Coelho, all make this the go-to place for traditional Portuguese food. If you can only try one Portuguese restaurant in Macau, make it this one. The octopus salad, homemade sausage (served flaming) and the African chicken are exceptional.

5Coloane

icon-top-choiceoCafé Nga TimMACANESE$

(雅憩花園餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Caetano, Coloane Village; mains MOP$70-200; icon-hoursgifhnoon-1am; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg21A, 25, 26A)

We love the Chinese-Portuguese food, the small-town atmosphere, the view of the Chapel of St Francis Xavier, the prices and the owner – a guitar- and erhu-strumming ex-policeman named Feeling Wong.

Hon Kee CoffeeCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Estrada de Lai Chi Vun; mains MOP$15-30; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-6pm)

Amid the atmospheric abandoned shipyard just north of Coloane village, this idiosyncratic cha chaan teng (a Southern Chinese-style greasy spoon specialising in coffee, tea and breakfast) is a cult hit among young Macanese. Crowd into the high-ceilinged shanty to slurp sweet dense coffee and snack on fluffy white toast drizzled with condensed milk.

Lord Stow’s BakeryBAKERY$

(澳門安德魯餅店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Rua da Tassara; egg tarts MOP$9; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm Thu-Tue, to 7pm Wed)

Though the celebrated English baker Andrew Stow has passed away, his cafe (9 Largo do Matadouro) and Lord Stow’s Bakery keep his memory alive by serving his renowned pastéis de nata – a warm egg-custard tart (MOP$9) – and cheesecake (MOP$14) in unusual flavours, including black sesame and green tea.

Barbecue Stalls near Hác Sá BeachBARBECUE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rua de Hác Sá Long Chao Kok, Coloane; skewers MOP$15-45; icon-hoursgifh11am-3pm; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg21A, 25, 26A)

Just off Hác Sá beach is a row of barbecue stalls – some with tables – emitting the mouth-watering aromas of grilled meat and seafood.

icon-top-choiceoRestaurante FernandoPORTUGUESE$$

(法蘭度餐廳 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2888 2264; 9 Hác Sá beach; meals MOP$150-270; icon-hoursgifhnoon-9.30pm; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg21A, 25, 26A)

Possibly Coloane's most famous restaurant, sprawling Fernando's contains two separate dining rooms and a large courtyard bar area. Devoted customers and travellers pack the chequered-tablecloth-covered tables to chow on plates of garlicky clams, golden roast suckling pig, and piles of codfish rice. Expect lines during peak lunch and dinner times, especially on weekends. Cash only.

Espaco LisboaPORTUGUESE, MACANESE$$$

(里斯本地帶 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2888 2226; 8 Rua das Gaivotas, Coloane village; meals MOP$250-800; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10.30pm; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg21A, 25, 26A)

The home-style dishes here are solidly good, but what makes this two-storey restaurant in Coloane village unique is the combination of Portugal-inspired decor and a Chinese village house – in other words, the space (espaco).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Old Taipa TavernPUB

(好客鄉村餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21 Rua dos Negociantes, Taipa village; icon-wifigifW; icon-busgifg22, 28A, 26)

A location near the Pak Tai Temple makes laid-back OTT a sublime spot to down and beer and watch the comings and goings in the centre of Taipa village.

icon-top-choiceoMacallan Whisky Bar & LoungeBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8883 2221; www.galaxymacau.com; 203, 2nd fl, Galaxy Hotel, Cotai; icon-hoursgifh5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; icon-busgifg25, 25X)

Macau's best whisky bar is a traditional affair featuring oak panels, Jacobean rugs and a real fireplace. The 400-plus whisky labels include representatives from Ireland, France, Sweden and India, and a 1963 Glenmorangie. The pre-9pm happy hour means you get your age in years discounted as a percentage from your drink (30 years old = 30 percent off).

Club CubicCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 6638 4999; www.cubic-cod.com; 2105-02, Level 2, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai; icon-hoursgifh11.30pm-6am Mon-Sat; icon-busgifg50, 35)

The massive and flashy Club Cubic at the Hard Rock Hotel has themed rooms and a large disco ball. There are DJs mixing a variety of tunes, including hip hop, techno and Korean pop, pumped out of the club’s top-notch sound system.

BRIGHT LIGHTS, SIN CITY

A gambling mecca since the 19th century, Macau has lately been sprouting glitzy megacasinos like mushrooms after a rain. The change began when casino mogul Stanley Ho’s monopoly ended in 2002 and Las Vegas operators set up shop in competition. There are now more than 30 casinos in Macau, their total gaming revenue surpassing all of the world's major gambling jurisdictions combined. Macau Peninsula has most of the older, smaller casinos, while the newly infilled Cotai area is home to the new breed of casino-hotel-shopping-entertainment behemoths.

Table games are the staple at casinos here – mostly baccarat, then roulette and a dice game called dai sai (big small). You'll hardly hear any whooping and clunking – slot machines make up only 5% of total casino winnings (versus Vegas’ 60%). Drunks are also hard to come by, as Chinese players believe that booze dulls their skill. Over 80% of gamblers and 95% of high rollers come from mainland China. The latter play inside members-only rooms where the total amount wagered on any given day can exceed a small country’s GDP.

For recreational players, the only thing to watch out for is harassment by tip hustlers – scam artists who hang around tables acting like your new best friend. They may steal your chips, nag you for a cut or try to take you to a casino that will tip them for bringing clients.

Casinos are open 24 hours. To enter, you must be 21 years or older and neatly dressed.

3Entertainment

icon-top-choiceoVenetianCASINO

(澳門威尼斯人度假村酒店 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2882 8877; www.venetianmacao.com; icon-busgifg25, 26A)

Said to be one of the 10 largest buildings in the world, the Venetian is 980,000 sq metres of what might be described as Casino Gothic architecture, packed to the gills with busloads of goggle-eyed tourists. Features include some 3000 hotel suites, a full-sized arena, an on-site medical and plastic surgery clinic and more than 500,000 sq ft of gaming floor. Its centrepiece is the Grand Canal Shoppes, an indoor mall surrounding three enormous curved canals, where gondoliers push boats of tourists through pool-blue waters while singing opera. The ceiling is painted and lit to resemble the sky at dusk, the shops are housed behind Venetian-style facades, and wandering magicians dressed like carnival revellers entertain the crowds. Surreal.

icon-top-choiceoHouse of Dancing WaterTHEATRE

(水舞間 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8868 6688; http://thehouseofdancingwater.com; City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai; tickets MOP$580-1480; icon-busgifg50, 35)

‘The House of Dancing Water’, Macau’s most expensively made show, is a breathtaking melange of stunts, acrobatics and theatre designed by Franco Dragone, the former director of Cirque du Soleil. The magic revolves around a cobalt pool the size of several Olympic-sized swimming pools. Over, around, into and under this pool a cast of 80, dressed in glorious costumes, perform hair-raising stunts.

Galaxy MacauCASINO

(澳門銀河綜合渡假城 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2888 0888; www.galaxymacau.com; Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai; icon-busgifg25, 26A)

Towering over Cotai like an alien palace out of Star Wars, the ginormous gold-and-white Galaxy is one of the most extravagant megacasinos in the city (and that's saying something). It contains six hotels, more than 100 restaurants and kilometres of upmarket shopping, as well as a movie theatre, Chinese foot massage spa and a jaw-dropping rooftop wave pool and lazy river (for hotel guests only). The brightly lit game floors tinkle with the sounds of dice and slot machines all night long. Mere gawkers can enjoy lobby violinists, wandering dance troupes and a fountain that lights up and sings once an hour.

Studio CityCASINO

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8865 8888; www.studiocity-macau.com; Estrada Flor de Lotus, Cotai; icon-familygifc; icon-busgifg25, 26A)

You can recognise this new casino from afar by the figure-8-shaped 'Golden Reel' at its centre, a double Ferris wheel with views across the Cotai Strip. This Hollywood-themed casino complex is one of Macau's more family-friendly, with a Warner Brothers–themed indoor kiddie amusement park and a (very entertaining) Batman flight-simulation ride (MOP$150). Beyond the fully loaded casino, you'll find a 1600-room hotel, a mall, a house magic show and a food court designed to look like old Macau.

City of DreamsCASINO

(新濠天地 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 8868 6688; www.cityofdreamsmacau.com; Estrada do Istmo, Cotai; icon-busgifg25, 26A)

Opened in 2009, this megacasino features three hotels, several dozen restaurants, a mall and several theatres, as well as nearly half a million square feet of gaming floor. Check out the 3D projection shows in the Bubble Dome Theatre (MOP$50) or the digital mermaids swimming along the walls of the virtual aquarium.

PRACTICAL TIP

EVENTS & TICKETS

The website www.macau.com has events listings and a ticket-booking service. You can also book tickets to most events through Macau Ticket ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2855 5555; www.macauticket.com; 71b Avenida Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida) and Cotai Ticketing (www.cotaiticketing.com).

The monthly events calendar for upmarket entertainment is Destination Macau, available at Macau Government Tourist Office outlets and larger hotels.

7Shopping

icon-top-choiceoCunha BazaarGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cunhabazaar.com; Rua do Cunha 33-35, Taipa Village; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-10pm)

This four-storey shop on the corner of Taipa Village's Rua do Cunha pedestrian street has the motherlode of made-in-Macau gifts, T-shirts, candies and more. You'll find traditional foods like almond cookies and jerky on the ground floor, while the 1st floor is dedicated to goods bearing the image of Macau's own Soda Panda, a perpetually grumpy cartoon panda who likes to do Macanese things like eat egg tarts and play roulette. The remaining two floors are dedicated to leather goods, ceramics, notebooks, sketches and so on by local designers.

2Sports & Activities

Taipa Trail HikingHIKING

The Little Taipa Trail (Trilho de Taipa Pequena) is a 2km-long circuit around a hill (111m) in northwestern Taipa, reachable via Estrada Lou Lim Ieok. The 2.2km-long Taipa Trail (Trilho de Taipa Grande) rings Taipa Grande, a 160m-high hill at the eastern end of the island. You can access the trail via a short paved road off Estrada Colonel Nicolau de Mesquita.

Coloane TrailHIKING

Coloane’s (and Macau’s) longest trail, the 8100m Trilho de Coloane, begins in the mid-section of Estrada do Alto de Coloane and winds around the island. (To get there, take bus 21A and get off at stop Estrata do Campo, then enter Estrata Militar across the road; after 600m, turn right.) You can make a detour to Alto de Coloane (170m) to see the A-Ma Statue.

The shorter Coloane Northeast Trail (Trilho Nordeste de Coloane), near Ká Hó, runs for 3km. Other trails that offer good hiking include the 1.5km-long Altinho de Ká Hó Trail and the 1.5km-long Circuito da Barragem de Hác Sá, which both loop around the reservoir to the northwest of Hác Sá beach.

Macau Golf & Country ClubGOLF

(澳門高爾夫球鄉村俱樂部 GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%853 2887 1188; www.macaugolfandcountryclub.com; 1918 Estrada de Hác Sá, Coloane; icon-busgifg15)

One of three tournament courses in greater China, the scenic 18-hole, par-71 course connected to the Westin Resort has special weekday tee times for non-members. The driving range allows players to hit balls into the South China Sea.