Transport

Arriving in Hong Kong

Most international travellers arrive and depart via Hong Kong International Airport. Travellers to and from mainland China can use ferry, road or rail links to Guǎngdōng and points beyond. Hong Kong is also accessible from Macau via ferry or helicopter.

More than 100 airlines operate between Hong Kong International Airport and some 190 destinations around the world. Flights include from New York (16 hours), Los Angeles (14 hours), Sydney (9½ hours), London (13 hours) and Běijīng (3½ hours). There are regular buses connecting Hong Kong with major destinations in neighbouring Guǎngdōng province. Twelve trains run daily from Hong Kong to Guǎngzhōu (two hours), and trains to Běijīng (24 hours) and Shànghǎi (19 hours) run on alternate days. Visas are required to cross the border to the mainland.

Regularly scheduled ferries link the China Ferry Terminal in Kowloon and/or the Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island with a string of towns and cities on the Pearl River Delta, including Macau. Trips take two to three hours.

Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com.

Climate Change and Travel

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO₂, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO₂) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Air

There are flights between Hong Kong and around 50 cities in mainland China, including Běijīng, Chéngdū, Kūnmíng and Shànghǎi. One-way fares are a bit more than half the return price. The national carrier is Air China (%852 3970 9000; www.airchina.hk).

Other carriers include:

Cathay Pacific ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cathaypacific.com; 7th fl The Cameron, 33 Cameron Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit A2) From Hong Kong, with connections to Cape Town, Port Elizabeth and Durban.

Dragonair (www.dragonair.com) Owned by Cathay Pacific, Dragonair specialises in regional flights and flies to 20 cities in mainland China.

Hong Kong Airlines (HX; %852 3151 1888; www.hongkongairlines.com) Cheaper airline that specialises in regional routes, including 22 cities in mainland China.

Hong Kong International Airport

Designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster, the Hong Kong International Airport (HKG; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2181 8888; www.hkairport.com) is on Chek Lap Kok, a largely reclaimed area off Lantau’s northern coast. Highways, bridges (including the 2.2km-long Tsing Ma Bridge, one of the world’s longest suspension bridges) and a fast train link the airport with Kowloon and Hong Kong Island.

The two terminals have a wide range of shops, restaurants, cafes, ATMs and moneychangers including:

Hong Kong Hotels Association (香港酒店業協會; HKHA MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2769 8822, 852 2383 8380; www.hkha.org; Hong Kong International Airport; h7am-midnight) Counters are located inside the Buffer Halls. HKHA deals with midrange and top-end hotels only and does not handle hostels, guesthouses or other budget accommodation.

China Travel Service (中國旅行社, CTS %customer service 852 2998 7333, tour hotline 852 2998 7888; www.ctshk.com; h7am-10pm) Has four counters in the terminals, including one in Arrivals Hall A that issues China ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2315 7171; www.ctshk.com; 1/F Alpha House, 27-33 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit D1) visas (normally takes one working day).

Transport from the Airport

Airport Express

Airport Express line (%2852 881 8888; www.mtr.com.hk; one way Central/Kowloon/Tsing Yi HK$100/90/60; hevery 10min) is the fastest (and most expensive, other than a taxi) way to get to and from the airport.

Departures From 5.54am to 12.48am for Central, calling at Kowloon station in Jordan, Tsing Yi island en route; the full trip takes 24 minutes. Tickets are available from vending machines at the airport and train stations.

Fares Return fares for Central/Kowloon/Tsing Yi, valid for a month, cost HK$180/160/110. Children three to 11 years pay half-price. An Airport Express Travel Pass allows three days of unlimited travel on the MTR and Light Rail and one-way/return trips on the Airport Express (HK$250/350).

Shuttle buses Airport Express also has two shuttle buses on Hong Kong Island (H1 and H2) and five in Kowloon (K1 to K5), with free transfers for passengers between Central and Kowloon stations and major hotels. The buses run every 12 to 20 minutes between 6.12am and 11.12pm. Schedules and routes are available at Airport Express and MTR stations and on the Airport Express website.

Bus

There are good bus links to/from the airport. These buses have plenty of room for luggage, and announcements are usually made in English, Cantonese and Mandarin notifying passengers of hotels at each stop. For more details on the routes, check the Transport section at www.hkairport.com.

Departures Buses run every 10 to 30 minutes from about 6am to between midnight and 1am. There are also quite a few night buses (designated ‘N’).

Fares Major hotel and guesthouse areas on Hong Kong Island are served by the A11 (HK$40) and A12 (HK$45) buses; the A21 (HK$33) covers similar areas in Kowloon. Bus drivers in Hong Kong do not give change, but it is available at the ground transportation centre at the airport, as are Octopus cards. Normal returns are double the one-way fare. Unless otherwise stated, children aged between three and 11 years and seniors over 65 pay half-fare.

Tickets Buy your ticket at the booth near the airport bus stand.

Limousine

There are limousine service counters in the arrivals hall and at the ground transportation centre, including Parklane Limousine Service (%852 2730 0662; www.hongkonglimo.com) and Intercontinental Hire Cars (%852 3193 9332; www.trans-island.com.hk). In a car seating up to four people, expect to pay HK$650 to HK$850 to destinations in Hong Kong Island and urban Kowloon and from HK$600 to HK$1500 to the New Territories.

TAXI FARES FROM THE AIRPORT

Destination	Fare (HK$)
Central, Admiralty, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay (Hong Kong Island)	280-320
Tsim Sha Tsui, Jordan, Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok, Hung Hom (Kowloon)	230-230
Sha Tin (New Territories)	280
Tsuen Wan (New Territories)	200
Tung Chung (Lantau)	45-55

In addition to the fares listed, passengers have to pay HK$5 for every piece of baggage that is carried inside the baggage compartment.

Car & Motorcycle

Hong Kong's transport system is so far-reaching and efficient that you will not need your own vehicle unless getting stuck in traffic is your idea of fun.

Coaches to Mainland China

CTS Express Coach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2764 9803; http://ctsbus.hkcts.com)

Eternal East Cross-Border Coach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3760 0888, 852 3412 6677; www.eebus.com; 13th fl, Kai Seng Commercial Centre, 4-6 Hankow Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h7am-8pm) Mainland destinations from Hong Kong include Dōngguān, Fóshān, Guǎngzhōu, Huìzhōu, Kāipíng, Shēnzhèn’s Bǎoān airport and Zhōngshān.

Ferry

Chu Kong Passenger Transport Company (%852 2858 3876; www.cksp.com.hk) provides regularly scheduled ferries that link the China Ferry Terminal (中港碼頭 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; China Hong Kong City, 33 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui) in Kowloon and/or the Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal (Shun Tak Centre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shun Tak Centre, 200 Connaught Rd, Sheung Wan) on Hong Kong Island with a string of towns and cities on the Pearl River Delta – but not central Guǎngzhōu or Shēnzhèn.

Mainland destinations from Hong Kong include:

Shékǒu One hour

Shùndé Two hours

Zhàoqìng Four hours

Zhōngshān 1½ hours

Zhūhǎi 70 minutes

A fast ferry service called the SkyPier (%852 2215 3232) links Hong Kong airport with nine Pearl River Delta destinations: Shēnzhèn Shékǒu, Shēnzhèn Fúyǒng, Dōngguǎn, Zhōngshān, Zhūhǎi, Guǎngzhōu Nánshā, Guǎngzhōu Lianhuashan, Macau (Maritime Ferry Terminal) and Macau (Taipa). The service enables travellers to board ferries directly without clearing Hong Kong customs and immigration. Book a ticket prior to boarding from the ticketing counter located at Transfer Area E2 at least 60 minutes before ferry departure time. Take the Automated People Move to the ferry terminal.

Train

One-way and return tickets for Běijīng and Shànghǎi can be booked 30 to 60 days in advance at MTR stations in Hung Hom, Mong Kok East, Kowloon Tong and Sha Tin, and at Tourist Services at Admiralty station.

There are direct rail links between Hung Hom and both Shànghǎi and Běijīng. Trains to Běijīng West train station (hard/soft/deluxe sleeper from HK$601/934/1191) depart on alternate days at 3.15pm, arriving at 3.13pm the following day. Trains to Shànghǎi (hard/soft/deluxe sleeper from HK$530/825/1039) also depart on alternate days at 3.15pm, arriving at 10.22am the following day.

Getting Around Hong Kong

Hong Kong is small and crowded, and public transport is the only practical way to move people. The ultramodern Mass Transit Railway (MTR) is the quickest way to get to most urban destinations. The bus system is extensive and as efficient as the traffic allows, but it can be bewildering for short-term travellers. Ferries are fast and economical and throw in spectacular harbour views at no extra cost. Trams serve the purpose if you're not in a hurry.

Bicycle

Cycling in urbanised Kowloon or Hong Kong Island would be suicide, but in the quiet areas of the islands (including southern Hong Kong Island) and the New Territories, a bike can be a lovely way to get around. It’s more recreational than a form of transport, though – the hilly terrain will slow you down (unless you’re mountain biking). Be advised that shops and kiosks renting out bicyles tend to run out early on weekends if the weather is good.

Wong Kei (旺記單車 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2662 5200; Ting Kok Rd, Tai Mei Tuk) offers bicycle hire.

Boat

Despite Hong Kong’s comprehensive road and rail public-transport system, the territory still relies very much on ferries to get across the harbour and to reach the Outlying Islands. The cross-harbour Star Ferry services are faster and cheaper than buses and the MTR. They’re also great fun and afford stunning views. While Lantau can be reached by MTR and bus, for the other Outlying Islands ferries remain the only game in town.

Star Ferry

You can’t say you’ve ‘done’ Hong Kong until you’ve taken a ride on a Star Ferry, that wonderful fleet of electric-diesel vessels with names like Morning Star, Celestial Star and Twinkling Star.

There are two Star Ferry routes, but by far the most popular is the one running between Central (Pier 7) and Tsim Sha Tsui. Quite frankly, there’s no other trip like it in the world. Star Ferry also links Wan Chai with Tsim Sha Tsui.

The coin-operated turnstiles do not give change, but you can get change from the ticket window or use an Octopus card.

Outlying Island Ferries

Regular ferry services link the main Outlying Islands to Hong Kong. Fares are reasonable and the ferries are comfortable and usually air-conditioned. They have toilets, and some have a basic bar that serves snacks and cold drinks. The ferries can get very crowded on Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday, especially in the warmer months.

Ferry Services

Three separate ferry companies operate services to the Outlying Islands from the ferry terminal in Central. Another, Tsui Wah Ferry Service, offers services to less-visited but scenic spots.

Discovery Bay Transportation Services (www.dbcommunity.hk) Provides fast-speed regular ferries between Central (Pier 3) and Discovery Bay on Lantau Island.

Hong Kong & Kowloon Ferry (HKKF; %852 2815 6063; www.hkkf.com.hk) Serves destinations on Lamma Island and Peng Chau only.

New World First Ferry (NWFF; GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2131 8181; www.nwff.com.hk; mHong Kong, exit A1 or A2) Boats sail to/from Cheung Chau, Peng Chau and Lantau Island, and connect all three via an interisland service (regular/deluxe class/fast ferry HK$13.20/20.70/25.80), every 1¾ hours from 6am to 10.50pm.

Tsui Wah Ferry Service (翠華旅遊有限公司 %852 2527 2513, 852 2272 2022; www.traway.com.hk) Has slower ferries from Ma Liu Shui (15 minutes’ walk from the University MTR station) to Tap Mun and Sai Kung Peninsula (twice daily); Ma Liu Shui to Tung Ping Chau (only on weekends and public holidays); and Aberdeen to Po Toi Island (on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday).

Bus

Hong Kong’s extensive bus system will take you just about anywhere in the territory. Since Kowloon and the northern side of Hong Kong Island are so well served by the MTR, most visitors use the buses primarily to explore the southern side of Hong Kong Island, the New Territories and Lantau Island.

Departures Most buses run from 5.30am or 6am until midnight or 12.30am, though there are smaller numbers of night buses that run from 12.45am to 5am or later.

Fares Bus fares cost HK$4 to HK$46, depending on the destination. Fares for night buses cost from HK$7 to HK$32. You will need exact change or an Octopus card.

Bus stations On Hong Kong Island the most important bus stations are the bus terminus in Central ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Exchange Sq; mHong Kong, exit A1 or A2) and the one at Admiralty ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ground fl, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty; mAdmiralty, exit D). From these stations you can catch buses to Aberdeen, Repulse Bay, Stanley and other destinations on the southern side of Hong Kong Island. In Kowloon the Star Ferry bus terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) has buses heading up Nathan Rd and to the Hung Hom train station.

Route information Figuring out which bus you want can be difficult, but City Bus (%852 2873 0818; www.nwstbus.com.hk) and New World First Bus (%852 2136 8888; www.nwstbus.com.hk), owned by the same company, plus Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB; %852 2745 4466; www.kmb.hk) provide user-friendly route searches on their websites. KMB also has a route app for smartphones.

Lantau Most parts of Lantau Island are served by the New Lantau Bus (%852 2984 9848; www.newlantaobus.com). Major bus stations are located in Mui Wo ferry terminal and Tung Chung MTR station.

Car & Motorcycle

Hong Kong’s maze of one-way streets and dizzying expressways isn’t for the faint-hearted. Traffic is heavy and finding a parking space is difficult and very expensive. If you are determined to see Hong Kong under your own steam, do yourself a favour and rent a car with a driver.

Road rules Vehicles drive on the left-hand side of the road in Hong Kong, as in the UK, Australia and Macau, but not in mainland China. Seat belts must be worn by the driver and all passengers, in both the front and back seats. Police are strict and give out traffic tickets at the drop of a hat.

Driving licence Hong Kong allows most foreigners over the age of 18 to drive for up to 12 months with a valid licence from home. It’s still a good idea to carry an International Driving Permit (IDP) as well. Car-rental firms accept IDPs or driving licences from your home country. Drivers must usually be at least 25 years of age.

Ace Hire Car ( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2572 7663, 24hr 852 6108 7399; www.acehirecar.com.hk; Flat F, 1st fl, Nam Wing Bldg, 49-51A Sing Woo Rd, Happy Valley; g1 from Des Voeux Rd Central) Hires out chauffeur-driven Mercedes-Benz for HK$250 per hour (minimum two to five hours, depending on location).

Avis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2511 9338; www.avis.com.hk; Shop 2 & 3, ground fl, Centre Point, 181-185 Gloucester Rd, Wan Chai; h10am-7pm; mCauseway Bay, exit C) Hires out cars for a day/weekend/week starting from HK$930/1200/1500, nearly double on weekends. A chauffeur-driven Toyota is HK$600 per hour.

Minibus

Minibuses are vans with no more than 16 seats. They come in two varieties: red and green.

Red minibuses (HK$7 to HK$40) Cream-coloured with a red roof or stripe, they pick up and discharge passengers wherever they are hailed or asked to stop along fixed routes. The destination and price are displayed on a card propped up on the windscreen, but these are often only written in Chinese. You usually hand the driver the fare when you get off, and change is given. You can use your Octopus card on certain routes.

Green minibuses (HK$3 to HK$24) Cream-coloured with a green roof or stripe; they make designated stops. You must put the exact fare in the cash box when you get in or you can use your Octopus card. Two popular routes are the 6 (HK$6.40) from Hankow Rd in Tsim Sha Tsui to Tsim Sha Tsui East and Hung Hom station in Kowloon, and the 1 (HK$10) to Victoria Peak from next to Hong Kong station.

MTR

The Mass Transit Railway (MTR; %852 2881 8888; www.mtr.com.hk; fares HK$4-25) is the name for Hong Kong’s rail system comprising underground, overland and Light Rail (slower tram-style) services. Universally known as the ‘MTR’, it is clean, fast and safe, and transports around four million people daily.

Though it costs slightly more than bus travel, the MTR is the quickest way to get to most destinations in Hong Kong.

Train

There are around 90 stations on nine underground and overland lines, and a Light Rail network that covers the northwest New Territories. Smoking, eating and drinking are not permitted in MTR stations or on the trains, and violators are subject to a fine of HK$5000.

Departures Trains run every two to 14 minutes from around 6am to sometime between midnight and 1am.

Exits MTR exit signs use an alphanumerical system and there can be as many as a dozen to choose from. You may find yourself studying the exit table from time to time and scratching your head. There are maps of the local area at each exit.

Fares Tickets cost HK$8 to HK$35, but trips to stations bordering mainland China (Lo Wu and Lok Ma Chau) can cost up to HK$60. Children aged between three and 11 years and seniors over 65 pay half-fare. Ticket machines accept notes and coins and dispense change.

Tickets Once you’ve passed through the turnstile to begin a journey you have 90 minutes to complete it before the ticket becomes invalid. If you have underpaid (by mistake or otherwise), you can make up the difference at an MTR service counter next to the turnstile.

Peak hours If possible, it’s best to avoid the rush hours: 7.30am to 9.30am and 5pm to 7pm weekdays.

MTR: FUN FACTS, FAST FICTION

Hong Kong’s MTR stations are colour-coded and colourfully storied.

Ancient superstition Traditional Chinese are apprehensive about digging activities because spirits are believed to reside underground. When the MTR was commissioning its construction in the 1970s, many local companies refused to bid. Like other high-risk industries in Hong Kong, construction has an informal code of ethics based on superstition.

Calligraphy Platforms on the Island Line, which tend to be less spacious, show the station names in ancient Chinese script. The graceful calligraphy is supposed to have a soothing effect on waiting passengers.

Haunted? Ghost stories about the MTR abound. A woman in a red dress is said to have leapt onto the tracks in Yau Ma Tei, but no corpse could be found. There are tales of children playing in the tunnel between Lai King and Mei Foo, vanishing just when the train hits them; and a victim of an industrial accident in white overalls, dangling his legs from a swing made from a high-pressure electric cable between Choi Hung and Kowloon Bay. Staff lit incense, offered apologies, and he was never seen again.

Platform design Colour-coding adds personality to drab underground environments and enables passengers on crowded trains to quickly locate themselves. The most chromatically interesting stations are on the Kwun Tong Line. Kowloon Tong is light blue – ‘Tong’ means ‘pool’. Wong Tai Sin takes ‘wong’ or ‘yellow’. Diamond Hill is charcoal flecked with silver. Navy with rainbow stripes stands for Choi Hung (‘rainbow’). Lai Chi Kok on the Tsuen Wan Line is orange-red because that’s the colour of a ripe lychee (‘lai chi’). Interchange stations, Central and Mong Kok, sport eye-catching red.

Light Rail Lines

The MTR’s Light Rail system is rather like a modern, air-conditioned version of the trams in Hong Kong, but it’s much faster. It runs in the northwest New Territories.

Departures Operates from about 5.30am to between 12.15am and 1am. Trams run every four to 12 minutes, depending on the line and time of day.

Fares HK$5.50 to HK$8, depending on the number of zones (from one to five) travelled; children and seniors over 65 pay from HK$3 to HK$4.

Tickets You can buy single-journey tickets from vending machines on the platforms. There are no gates or turnstiles and customers are trusted to validate their ticket or Octopus card when they board and exit.

Taxi

Hong Kong taxis are a bargain compared with those in other world-class cities. With more than 18,000 cruising the streets of the territory, they’re easy to flag down, except during rush hour, when it rains or during the driver shift-change period (around 4pm daily).

Taxis are colour-coded:

ARed with silver roofs Urban taxis – those in Kowloon and on Hong Kong Island. Can go anywhere except Lantau.

AGreen with white tops New Territories taxis.

ABlue Lantau taxis.

You need to take a red taxi in New Territories if your destination is in Hong Kong, Kowloon or the city centres of the new towns in New Territories.

Availability When a taxi is available, there should be a red ‘For Hire’ sign illuminated on the meter that’s visible through the windscreen. At night the ‘Taxi’ sign on the roof will be lit up as well. Taxis will not stop at bus stops or in restricted zones where a yellow line is painted next to the kerb.

Complaints Though most drivers are scrupulously honest, if you feel you’ve been ripped off, take down the taxi or driver’s licence number (usually displayed on the sun visor in front) and contact the Transport Complaints Unit hotline (www.info.gov.hk/tcu/complaint) or the Transport Department hotline (%852 2804 2600; www.td.gov.hk/en/contact_us/index.html) to lodge a complaint. Be sure to have all the relevant details: when, where and how much.

Extra fees There is a luggage fee of HK$5 per bag, but (depending on the size) not all drivers insist on this payment. It costs an extra HK$5 to book a taxi by telephone. There are no extra late-night charges and no extra passenger charges. Passengers must pay the toll if a taxi goes through the many Hong Kong harbour or mountain tunnels or uses the Lantau Link to Tung Chung or the airport. Though the Cross-Harbour Tunnel costs only HK$10, you’ll have to pay HK$20 if, say, you take a Hong Kong taxi from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon. If you manage to find a Kowloon taxi returning ‘home’, you’ll pay only HK$10. (It works the other way round as well, of course.)

Lost property If you leave something behind in a taxi, call the Road Co-op Lost & Found hotline (%852 187 2920; www.yp.com.hk/taxi/); most drivers turn in lost property.

Language Some taxi drivers speak English well; others don’t know a word of English. It’s never a bad idea to have your destination written down in Chinese.

Paying Try to carry smaller bills and coins; most drivers are hesitant to make change for HK$500.

Seat belts The law requires that everyone in a vehicle wears a seat belt. Both driver and passenger(s) will be fined if stopped by the police and not wearing a seat belt, and most drivers will gently remind you to buckle up before proceeding.

Tipping You can tip up to 10%, but most Hong Kong people just leave the little brown coins and a dollar or two.

TAXI FARES

Type of taxi	First 2km (HK$)	Every additional 200m & minute of waiting
Urban taxi (red)	22	HK$1.60 (HK$1 if fare exceeds HK$78)
New Territories taxi (green)	18.50	HK$1.40 (HK$1 if fare exceeds HK$60.50)
Lantau taxi (blue)	17	HK$1.40 (HK$1.20 if fare exceeds HK$143)

HAILING A CROSS-HARBOUR TAXI

Hailing a cross-harbour taxi can be a frustrating task. There are three main ways to snag one:

ALook for a taxi with its lights on, but its 'Out of Service' sign up. This generally means the taxi is looking for a cross-harbour fare.

AFind a (rare) cross-harbour taxi stand.

AHail a cab with a sort of 'walk like an Egyptian' gesture, snaking your arm as if in imitation of a wave. Taxis potentially interested in cross-harbour fares will stop to negotiate.

Tickets & Passes

Octopus Card (www.octopuscards.com) A rechargeable smartcard valid on the MTR and most forms of public transport. It also allows you to make purchases at retail outlets across the territory (such as convenience stores and supermarkets). The card costs HK$150 (HK$70 for children and seniors), which includes a HK$50 refundable deposit and HK$100 worth of travel. Octopus fares are about 5% cheaper than ordinary fares on the MTR. You can buy one and recharge at any MTR station.

Airport Express Travel Pass (one way/return HK$250/350) As well as travel to/from the airport, it allows three consecutive days of unlimited travel on the MTR.

MTR Tourist Day Pass (adult/child 3-11yr HK$65/35) Valid on the MTR for 24 hours after the first use.

Tourist Cross-Boundary Travel Pass (1/2 consecutive days HK$85/120) Allows unlimited travel on the MTR and two single journeys to/from Lo Wu or Lok Ma Chau stations.

Tram

Hong Kong’s venerable old trams, operated by Hong Kong Tramways (%852 2548 7102; www.hktramways.com; fares HK$2.30; h6am-midnight), are tall, narrow double-deckers. They are slow, but they’re cheap and a great way to explore the city. Try to get a seat at the front window on the upper deck for a first-class view while rattling through the crowded streets.

For a flat fare (dropped in a box beside the driver as you disembark, or use an Octopus card) you can rattle along as far as you like over 16km of track, 3km of which wends its way into Happy Valley. There are six routes but they all move on the same tracks along the northern coast of Hong Kong Island. The longest run (Kennedy Town–Shau Kei Wan, with a change at Western Market) takes about 1½ hours.

Hong Kong Tramways also offers an hour-long TramOramic tour, which lets you experience the city on an open-top, faux-vintage tram. An audio guide is available, souvenirs are for sale on board, and there are displays of vintage tickets and tram models. Three departures daily; check the website for details.

Peak Tram

The Peak Tram is not really a tram but a cable-hauled funicular railway that has been scaling the 396m ascent to the highest point on Hong Kong Island since 1888. It is thus the oldest form of public transport in the territory. It’s such a steep ride that the floor is angled to help standing passengers stay upright.

The Peak Tram runs every 10 to 15 minutes from 7am to midnight. The lower terminus is behind the St John’s Building. The upper tram terminus is in the Peak Tower ( GOOGLE MAP ; 128 Peak Rd, Victoria Peak). Avoid going on Sunday and public holidays when there are usually long queues. Octopus cards can be used.

Between 10am and 11.40pm, open-deck (or air-conditioned) bus 15C (HK$4.20, every 15 to 20 minutes) takes passengers between the bus terminus near Central Ferry Pier 7 and the lower tram terminus.

Tours

Hong Kong has a profusion of organised tours. There are tours available to just about anywhere in the territory and they can make good a option if you have limited time, want more in-depth knowledge in a short time, or don’t want to deal with public transport. Some are standard excursions covering major sights, while others may give you a deeper experience of a neighbourhood. There are also speciality tours such as food tours, WWII tours and architecture tours.

Hong Kong Tourism Board has recommendations, and tours run by individual companies can usually be booked at any HKTB branch.

Harbour Tours

The easiest way to see the full extent of Victoria Harbour from sea level is to join a circular Star Ferry Harbour Tour, of which there are a number of different options. Most of the tours depart from the Star Ferry Pier in Tsim Sha Tsui, but there are also departures from the piers at Central and Wan Chai; see the website for details.

ASingle daytime round trip Departs hourly between 11.55pm and 5.55pm daily; costs HK$95 for adults and HK$86 for concessions (children aged three to 12 years, seniors over 65).

ANight round trip departs at 5.55pm and 8.55pm and is HK$175 for adults, HK$158 concessions.

ASymphony of Lights Harbour Cruise Departs at 7.15pm or 7.55pm depending on the season and takes in the nightly sound-and-light show over Victoria Harbour; it costs HK$200 for adults, HK$180 concessions.

Some operators offer tours with drinks, food and even buffet.

AHong Kong Ferry Group (%852 2802 2886; www.cruise.com.hk; adult/child from HK$350/250) Offers two harbour cruises in a large boat with buffet dinner and live band performance; it costs HK$350 for adults and HK$250 for children.

AJaspa's Party Junk (%852 2869 0733; http://www.casteloconcepts.com; adult HK$700, child HK$150-500) Boat for up to 40 people with a minimum booking of 14. Prices are per person and include all drinks and food.

AWater Tours Six different tours of the harbour, as well as dinner and cocktail cruises, are available. Prices range from HK$260 (HK$170 for children aged two to 12 years) for the Morning Harbour & Noon Day Gun Firing Cruise, to HK$350 (HK$260 for children) for the Harbour Lights and HK$900 (HK$700 for children) for the Aberdeen Dinner Cruise.

Nature Tours

Recommended Geopark Guide System (http://www.hkr2g.net/en_index.htm) The government's R2G website has trained guides and agency recommendations for tours of Hong Kong Global Geopark.

Eco Travel (綠恆生態旅遊 %852 3105 0767; www.ecotravel.hk) This eco-travel company offers tours exploring Hong Kong's fishing and ocean culture, wetlands tours, a nature bike tour, and a trip to the Geopark of the northern New Territories. Some are only in Cantonese – check ahead regarding English availability.

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch Offers 2½-hour cruises to see dolphins in their natural habitat every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday year-round. About 97% of the cruises result in the sighting of at least one dolphin; if none are spotted, passengers are offered a free trip. Guides assemble in the lobby of the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui at 9am for the bus to Tung Chung via the Tsing Ma Bridge, from where the boat departs; the tours return at 1pm.

Kayak and Hike (%852 9300 5197; www.kayak-and-hike.com) The seven-hour Sai Kung Geopark kayak tour provides an exciting option for exploring the beauty of Sai Kung. It takes you to a kayak base at nearby Bluff Island in a speedboat, from where you paddle to a beach to enjoy swimming and snorkelling. Departs 8.45am at Sai Kung old pier (HK$800 per person). You need to pack your lunch.

Walk Hong Kong (%852 9187 8641; www.walkhongkong.com) Offers a range of hiking tours to some of most beautiful places in Hong Kong, including deserted beaches in Sai Kung (HK$800 per person, 8½ hours), Dragon’s Back in Shek O (HK$500, four hours) and WWII battlefields (HK$500, half-day), as well as half-day local market tours (HK$450).

City & Culture Tours

Big Foot Tours (%852 6075 2727; www.bigfoottour.com) Small group tours tailored to your interests get behind the scenes of daily Hong Kong life. Itineraries can focus on food, architecture, nature or whatever strikes your fancy. Four-hour tours are about HK$700 per person, depending on group size.

Big Bus Company A good way to get your bearings in the city is on the hop-on, hop-off, open-topped double-deckers. Three tours are available: the Kowloon Route takes in much of the Tsim Sha Tsui and Hung Hom waterfront; the Hong Kong Island Route explores Central, Admiralty, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay; and the Green Tour goes to Stanley Market and Aberdeen.

Heliservices (%852 2802 0200; www.heliservices.com.hk; h9am-before sunset) If you hanker to see Hong Kong from on high (and hang the expense), Heliservices has chartered Aerospatiale Squirrels for up to five passengers. A 15-minute tour that takes in the Hong Kong skyline is HK$1999 per seat.

Splendid Tours & Travel (%852 2316 2151; www.splendid.hk; adult/child from HK$490/390) Runs several half-day tours and one full-day tour to Lantau Island, Sai Kung, and various bays on Hong Kong Island. Tours start from HK$490 per person.

Sky Bird Tours (%852 2736 2282; www.skybird.com.hk) A traditional lifestyle tour. Learn all about taichi, feng shui and Chinese tea with a four-hour tour (HK$460 per person). Tours depart 7.30am from the Excelsior Hotel in Causeway Bay and 7.45am from the Salisbury YMCA in Tsim Sha Tsui on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

Gray Line Has a one-day tour taking in Man Mo Temple, Victoria Peak, Aberdeen and Stanley Market.

MACAU TRANSPORT

Most travellers arrive in Macau by ferry from Hong Kong. If you are coming from mainland China, you can take the ferry or a bus from Guǎngdōng, or fly from select cities in mainland China.

Macau International Airport is connected to a limited number of destinations in Asia. If you are coming from outside Asia and destined for Macau, your best option is to fly to Hong Kong International Airport and take a ferry to Macau without going through Hong Kong customs.

Nationals of Australia, Canada, the EU, New Zealand and most other countries (but not US citizens) can purchase their China visas at Zhūhǎi on the border, but it will ultimately save you time if you get one in advance. These are available in Hong Kong or in Macau from China Travel Service (中國旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; CTS MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2870 0888; www.cts.com.mo; Nam Kwong Bldg, 207 Avenida do Dr Rodrigo Rodrigues; h9am-6pm), usually in one day.

Bus

Public buses and minibuses run by TCM (www.tcm.com.mo) and Transmac (%853 2827 1122; www.transmac.com.mo) operate from 6am until shortly after midnight. Fares – MOP$3.20 on the peninsula, MOP$4.20 to Taipa Village, MOP$5 to Coloane Village and MOP$6.40 to Hác Sá beach – are dropped into a box upon entry (exact change needed), or you can pay with a Macau Pass, which can be purchased from various supermarkets and convenience stores. The card costs MOP$130 at first purchase, which includes a refundable deposit of MOP$30. A minimum of MOP$50 is required to add money to the card each time. Expect buses to be very crowded.

The Macau Tourist Map has a full list of bus company routes and it’s worth picking one up from one of the Macau Government Tourist Office (MGTO) outlets. You can also check the routes online. The two most useful buses on the peninsula are buses 3 and 3A, which run between the ferry terminal and the city centre, near the post office. Both continue up to the border crossing with the mainland, as does bus 5, which can be boarded along Avenida Almeida Ribeiro. Bus 12 runs from the ferry terminal, past the Lisboa Hotel and then up to Lou Lim Ieoc Garden and Kun Iam Temple. The best services to Taipa and Coloane are buses 21A, 25 and 26A. Buses to the airport are AP1, 26, MT1 and MT2.

Ferry

Macau's main ferry terminal, Macau Maritime Ferry Terminal (外港客運碼頭; Terminal Maritimo de Passageiros do Porto Exterior MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Outer Harbour, Macau), is in the outer harbour.

ABoat to China Yuet Tung Shipping Co (粵通船務有限公司 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2893 9944, 853 2877 4478; www.ytmacau.com; Point 11A Inner Harbour, Inner Harbour Ferry Terminal) has ferries connecting Macau’s Taipa temporary ferry terminal (MOP$238, 1½ hours, seven times daily) with Shékǒu in Shenzhen and the Shenzhen airport. Ferries also leave from Macau maritime ferry terminal (MOP$30, every half-hour, 8am to 4.15pm) for Wānzái in Zhūhǎi, although at the time of writing this route was temporarily suspended.

ASampans & ferries These boats (MOP$12.50, MOP$20 departure tax, hourly 8am to 4pm) run to Wānzái from a small pier near where Rua das Lorchas meets Rua do Dr Lourenço Pereira Marques.

ABoat to Hong Kong TurboJet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %bookings 852 2921 6688, in Hong Kong 852 790 7039, information 852 2859 3333; www.turbojet.com.hk; economy/superclass Mon-Fri HK$153/315, Sat & Sun HK$166/337, night crossing HK$189/358) has the most sailings. The one-hour trip departs from the Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal and Macau Maritime Ferry Terminal; see TurboJet's website for services to Hong Kong International Airport. CotaiJet ( GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2885 0595; www.cotaijet.com.mo; weekdays to Hong Kong regular/1st class MOP$154/267) departs every half-hour from 7.30am to midnight, and runs between the Taipa Temporary Ferry Terminal and Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal; a feeder shuttle-bus service drops off at destinations along the Cotai Strip. Check CotaiJet's website for services to Hong Kong International Airport.