Chapter 9
FRUITS AND
VEGETABLES
(Fruits et Legumes)
“Life expectancy would
grow by leaps and bounds
if green vegetables
smelled as good as bacon.”
Doug Larson
Recipes featured in this chapter:
Dijon Vinaigrette
Chopped Endive, Blue Cheese, Persimmon (Kaki), and Walnut Salad
Roasted Garlic Artichoke (Artichaut)
Tartiflette
Oven-Roasted Haricots Verts or Asparagus (Asperges)
Hazelnut Orange Persillade
Roasted Cauliflower (Chou-Fleur) with Currants and Capers
Canteloupe (Melon de Cavaillon) with Bayonne
Ham (Jambon de Bayonne) and Toasted Almonds
Seared Persimmon (Kaki) with Fromage Blanc, Honey, and Truffle Salt
The quality of fruits and vegetables in France is clearly evident in the extravagant displays at farmers’ markets, the small mom-and-pop magasins de légumes (vegetable shops) found in almost every neighborhood, and local grocery stores. Although vegetables are usually supporting actors on the dinner plate, the French still choose and prepare them with the same care that they take with all their food. Since most French people shop often, they look for produce that’s just at the perfect point of ripeness for the dish they’re preparing.
There are food festivals all over France, especially in the warmer months, that celebrate many kinds of produce. One of our favorites is the truffles celebration in Sarlat-la-Canéda, an unforgettably picturesque town in the Périgord Noir region, which is thought to have been occupied since Gallo-Roman times. The area is known for truffles and geese (think pâté), and every January they celebrate with a weeklong truffle extravaganza. There are workshops on truffle identification, truffle hunting demonstrations with trained dogs, and of course tastings of the pricey fungi and its frequent companion, foie gras.
The French are supremely conscious of eating things that are actually in season locally, so strawberries in January are sure to be from outside the country. The following list from Le Parisien will help you plan your shopping trips, since it includes what you can expect to find in each season.
Seasonal Fruits and Vegetables in France
April: Starting to appear: rhubarb, blackberries, asparagus, chard, spinach, radishes, lettuce.
Still in season: oranges, beets, carrots, celery, cabbage, endive, potatoes.
May: Starting to appear: strawberries, eggplants, cucumbers, turnips, cauliflower.
Still in season: rhubarb, blackberries, asparagus, beets, carrots, celery, cabbage, spinach, radishes, potatoes, lettuce.
June: Starting to appear: apricots, cherries, currants, raspberries, melons, apples, tomatoes, zucchini, fennel, beans, leeks, peas, peppers.
Still in season: rhubarb, blackberries, asparagus, beets, carrots, celery, cabbage, cauliflower, spinach, lettuce, turnips, onions, potatoes, radishes.
Summer: Continue to enjoy strawberries, the last cherries, and apricots. It’s also still the high season for nectarines, peaches, plums, and pears. Grapes arrive. Zucchini, tomatoes, melons, beans, peppers, broccoli, and all lettuces are in abundance.
Fall: Enjoy grapes until October. Also, raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries are still available. You can find most summer veggies until November.
Winter: Apples and pears are everywhere. Oranges and clementines arrive in November. Now’s the time to cook cabbages, carrots, potatoes, leeks, and endive.
Popular French Vegetables and Fruits
These are everyday produce, but are extremely popular in France.
Popular Vegetables
Poireaux (leeks)
Haricots verts (small green beans)
Tomates (tomatoes)
Oignons (onions)
Aubergine (eggplant)
Courgettes (zucchini)
Popular Fruits
Poires (pears)
Pommes (apples)
Raisins (grapes)
Cerises (cherries)
Special French Vegetables and Fruits
These are some special items you can find in France. In this food heaven, you can get almost anything.
Special Vegetables
Endive—a rocket-shaped white vegetable from Belgium with a nutty flavor.
Cèpes—a large, very tasty mushroom.
Porcini—a large, very tasty mushroom.
Morilles (morels)—these delicious fungi are found in many places around the world; they resemble a sponge.
Chanterelle—these sought-after mushrooms grow in the wild and are meaty, lily-shaped, and can be orange, yellow, or white.
Mâche—a salad green that is tender and has a slightly sweet taste.
Special Fruits
Kaki (persimmon)
Prune mirabelle (mirabelle plum)
Melon de Cavaillon (slightly smaller and sweeter than a cantaloupe)
How to Prepare the Perfect French Green Salade
In France, the salad course is served after the main course and before the cheese course. This salad can be your mainstay during your entire time in France. Here are the basic ingredients, but you can be as creative as you please.
Pick up some crisp, fresh salad greens at the market. Toss with homemade vinaigrette. Voilà! Simple salad, happy diners. Typical French salad greens would be either Boston lettuce, escarole, or feuille de chene (oak leaf), but do experiment with other seasonal greens you may find. Because this is such a simple dish, the quality of the ingredients is critical. So splurge on a bottle of excellent, unflavored olive oil and quality vinegar.
VEGETABLES (Legumes)
LILLIPUTIAN REFRIGERATORS are not the only reason that the French shop every day. Their appreciation of quality ingredients and the ready availability of truly fresh produce make shopping every day the sensible thing to do. Here Deborah shows us how to make the most of the lovely things you’ll bring home from the market.
Dijon Vinaigrette
makes about ½ cup (120 ml) 
Vinaigrette is the staple French salad dressing. Its base of Dijon mustard and vinegar allows for almost endless variations from sweet to savory.
Ingredients
1½ teaspoons (8 ml) Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons (45 ml) red wine vinegar
Pinch of sugar or a couple drops of honey, more if needed
Salt
Pepper
½ cup (120 ml) olive oil
Equipment
Bowl
Measuring cups and spoons
Whisk (optional)
Method
1. Mix all ingredients except the olive oil together in the bottom of a bowl. Then whisk in the oil, slowly.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions
• If you don’t have a whisk, use a fork. Or put all the ingredients in a jar with a lid and shake it.
• Enhance the dressing by adding crushed garlic or finely chopped shallot or fresh herbs or all of these.
• Improve the salad by adding snipped herbs, radish, or cucumber.
• Use scissors for the herbs—for some, it’s easier to use than a knife and doesn’t bruise the leaves as much.
• Try adding ½ tablespoon (8 ml) honey and then add some sliced apple, persimmon, or nuts to your salad.
• Make a much larger amount of dressing and keep it in a jar in the refrigerator to use during your stay.
• To avoid soggy greens and to achieve evenly coated leaves, drizzle the dressing around the edge of the salad bowl. Then add the greens and toss, letting them fluff up against the sides of the bowl to capture the dressing.
• Substitute the vinegar and mustard with fresh lemon juice and a bit of honey for a refreshing change.
• Try different types of vinegars.
• Add a tablespoon of Tahini Sauce (see page 50) to make a creamy dressing.
Chopped Endive, Blue Cheese, Persimmon (Kaki), and Walnut Salad
serves 4
Since this salad isn’t likely to wilt too much before you consume it, it’s ideal for alfresco dining.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon (15 ml) honey
2 tablespoons (30 ml) cider vinegar (or use what you have on hand)
2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
3 heads of endive, sliced crosswise in ½-inch (1.25 cm) pieces (discard the end)
½ cup (125 ml) roughly chopped toasted walnuts or pecans
4 tablespoons (60 ml) crumbled blue cheese
2 kaki or fuyu persimmons, in ½-inch (1.25 cm) dice (replace with apple if you prefer)
Salt
Pepper
Equipment
Salad bowl
Whisk (optional)
Measuring spoons
Knife for chopping and slicing
Method
1. In a salad bowl, mix or whisk honey, vinegar, and olive oil. Add the other ingredients and toss to coat. Adjust seasonings.
2. Serve with a baguette and some pâté for a complete lunch.
Pairing Viognier
Roasted Garlic Artichoke (Artichaut)
serves 4 for lunch or 8 as an hors d’oeuvres
Yes, you can roast an artichoke. You will be thrilled at the difference in flavor!
Ingredients
2 large artichokes
½ lemon, cut in half, plus ½ lemon, sliced into about 4 thin slices
2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil plus more for drizzling
12 whole garlic cloves
4 sprigs rosemary
4 sprigs thyme
Salt
Pepper
½ cup (120 ml) aioli
Equipment
Knife
Baking dish
Foil
Method
1. Heat oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. Trim all but about 1 inch (25 mm) of the stem from each artichoke. Remove a layer of tough outer leaves. Cut about 1 inch (25 mm) off the top, and cut the artichokes in half, lengthwise. Scoop out the fuzzy choke and the tiny rough inner leaves with a spoon. This should all be done somewhat quickly and right before cooking as the artichokes will start to oxidize and turn brown immediately. Rinse the halves and use ¼ lemon to squeeze a bit of juice on the inside of each half to prevent browning. Wrap just the top part of the artichoke with foil to cover the leaves and keep them from drying out.
3. Spread about 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil in the baking dish. Place 3 garlic cloves, a sprig of rosemary, a sprig of thyme, and one lemon slice on each artichoke half. Season generously with salt and pepper and drizzle a little olive oil on each half.
4. Put the halves cut side down in the baking dish, trapping the herbs, garlic, and lemon underneath. Drizzle the leaf side with a little more olive oil and sprinkle with more salt.
5. Cover with foil or a pan lid and roast for about 45 minutes or until the heart is tender when pierced with a paring knife or fork.
6. When done, remove the now soft and delicious roasted garlic and mash it into your aioli. Squeeze the remaining ¼ lemon into the aioli and add a grind or two of black pepper. Stir with a fork to combine.
7. Serve the artichokes with garlic aioli for dipping.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions These can be made earlier in the day and then reheated in foil before serving to guests. They can be served at room temperature.
Tartiflette
serves 4 to 6
This is a relatively recent French “classic” from the Savoie region of France. It’s caramelized cheesy goodness.
Ingredients
2½ pounds (1.15 kg) potatoes, peeled
2 tablespoons (30 ml) butter
½ pound (225 g) lardons or bacon, diced
2 large shallots, cut into ½-inch (1.25 cm) chunks
½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
Pinch of nutmeg
Pinch of finely chopped thyme
Salt
Pepper
1 garlic clove
1 pound (450 g) Reblochon or a similar cheese, like fontina or Port du Salut, sliced
Equipment
Knife for dicing and slicing
Measuring cups and spoons
Medium oven-proof baking dish
Medium pot
Vegetable peeler
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. Boil the potatoes in a pot until just tender. Drain and remove potatoes from pot. When cool enough, cut into bite-sized pieces.
3. Sauté the potatoes in butter until just turning golden. Remove to a plate and set aside.
4. In the same pot, add the lardons and the shallot. Cook on medium-low for about 20 minutes, stirring now and then, until the lardons are golden and the shallots are caramelized.
5. Add the wine and let reduce until almost gone. Stir in cream, nutmeg, and thyme and remove from heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
6. In an ovenproof baking dish, rub a cut garlic clove over the sides and the bottom. Then scoop half of the potato mixture in the baking dish and layer with half of the cheese slices. Repeat with the other half of the potatoes and the cheese slices.
7. Bake in the oven for about 20 minutes until bubbling and golden.
Pairing Pinot Gris or Sancerre
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions Serve with a crispy green salad.
Oven-Roasted Haricots Verts or Asparagus (Asperges)
serves 4
When people of my age group grew up, most of our mothers boiled or steamed vegetables. No wonder it was so difficult to persuade us to eat our veggies! They were usually limp and soggy, and the texture and lack of flavor were enough to put us off certain ones for life. Oven roasting was a game changer. This is the simplest method of cooking vegetables ever invented. If you have an oven, you’re in business. Roasting enhances the flavor in vegetables, and the firmer texture adds interest to your meal. You can use this technique with almost any vegetable.
We were out recently with some friends who were enjoying the “what would be your last meal” conversation. The world-famous winemaker Justin Smith, creator of Saxum, said he would order a platter of roasted or grilled vegetables. We agreed that this is the thing we usually love best.
If this is just too simple for you, try the recipe for Hazelnut Orange Persillade (see page 208). It is perfect with either asparagus or haricots verts.
Ingredients
1 pound (450 g) haricots verts or asparagus, woody ends snapped off
2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
Salt
Pepper
Equipment
Baking pan or sheet
Measuring spoons
Method
1. Preheat oven to 380°F (195°C).
2. Toss vegetables in olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread on a baking sheet in a single layer. Don’t overcrowd.
3. Try either vegetable after 10 minutes, and if they are not done, check every additional 5 minutes until they are. The green beans will be done when they are softened but still have a bite. The asparagus will be done when they barely bend but are not limp.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions If you don’t have a reliable oven, cook the vegetables in boiling water until barely done, plunge them into cold water to stop the cooking, and dry them. Then pan roast them in olive oil, salt, and pepper.
Hazelnut Orange Persillade
serves 4
Chopped fresh herbs add interest to almost every dish. You will find so many uses for this tangy mixture. Try it on potatoes, sprinkled on fish, or on broccoli for extra zip.
Ingredients
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tablespoon (15 g) chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon (15 g) chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon (10 g) toasted and crushed hazelnuts
1 tablespoon (10 ml) grated orange zest
½ teaspoon (3 g) sea salt
Equipment
Knife for chopping
Measuring spoons
Method
1. Pile all the ingredients on a cutting board, and with a butcher’s knife, chop everything together into a very fine crumb-type mixture.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions
• Dangerous on roasted carrots or beets.
• Wonderful on trout or another roasted white fish.
• Super tasty on roasted or braised lamb.
Roasted Cauliflower (Chou-Fleur) with Currants and Capers
serves 4
This cauliflower is so delicious that sometimes we make it to eat like popcorn when we’re watching a movie on TV.
Ingredients
3 tablespoons (45 g) dried currants
2 tablespoons (30 ml) Calvados or brandy
1 head cauliflower, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) florets (or smaller)
6 tablespoons (90 ml) melted butter
Salt
Pepper
3 tablespoons (45 g) capers, drained
Equipment
Knife for chopping
Measuring spoons
Method
1. Mix together the currants and the Calvados or brandy and set aside while you prep and cook the cauliflower.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Toss the cauliflower with the melted butter, salt, and pepper. Roast until deeply golden brown, about 30 minutes (check it at 20 minutes). If not golden brown in 30 minutes, then cook a bit longer and check every 5 minutes.
3. Toss with the capers and the currants.
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions
• A perfect match with braised lamb shanks.
• Don’t mix in the capers or currants, and eat it as a snack.
FRUITS (Fruits)
FIGS, PEACHES, PEARS, BERRIES, and other fruits are an important part of the French menu. For ordinary dinners at home, fruit is usually served as dessert. It also is an important feature of the breakfast table. Fruit, yogurt, and a piece of last night’s baguette makes a dandy way to start today.
Cantaloupe (Melon de Cavaillon) with Bayonne Ham (Jambon de Bayonne) and Toasted Almonds
serves 4
Melon de Cavaillon is similar to cantaloupe but a bit smaller and even juicier.
Ingredients
1 melon de Cavaillon, rind removed and cut into 1-inch (1.25 cm) wedges (or ½ melon, depending on the size)
6 slices jambon de Bayonne, roughly cut into ¼-inch (6 mm) ribbons
3 tablespoons (45 ml) balsamic reduction
1 tablespoon (15 ml) honey
4 tablespoons (60 g) roughly chopped basil leaves or 2 tablespoons (30 g) finely chopped mint leaves
4 tablespoons (60 g) roughly chopped toasted almonds
Equipment
Knife for slicing and chopping
Measuring spoons
Method
1. Arrange the melon slices on a platter.
2. Place the ribbons of jambon one-by-one on the melon.
3. Drizzle the balsamic and the honey on the melon and jambon.
Scatter the basil and the toasted almonds.
Pairing Sancerre
Variations, Ideas, Suggestions
• Add a hunk of cheese from the fromagerie and a baguette and voilà! Instant picnic.
• For a vegetarian version, leave out the jambon de Bayonne. If you happen upon some gorgeous peaches or nectarines, you can substitute them for the melon.
Seared Persimmon (Kaki), with Fromage Blanc, Honey, and Truffle Salt
serves 4
Our dear friend Ann made something similar to this for us one night and we swooned.
Ingredients
4 ounces (112 g) fromage blanc (it’s almost like ricotta)
½ tablespoon (8 ml) butter
2 firm kaki or fuyu persimmons, cut into six wedges each, seed core removed
4 tablespoons (60 ml) honey
Truffle salt or flaked sea salt
Equipment
Knife for cutting
Measuring spoons
Small sauté pan
Method
1. Divide fromage blanc onto four plates.
2. Heat butter in a sauté pan on high until bubbling. Sear persimmon slices for about a minute on each side, until they start to turn golden.
3. Spoon the persimmons on top of the fromage blanc. Drizzle with honey. Sprinkle with salt.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE FESTIVALS