Central Norway

Why Go?

Bleak tundra and dramatic mountain massifs at seemingly every turn, charming villages, stave churches, fascinating wildlife and arguably Norway's best hiking and white-water rafting – with so much going for it, central Norway more than matches the fjords.

Here on the roof of Norway, trails snake their way past glaciers, waterfalls and snow-bound peaks in more than a dozen national parks. Jotunheimen National Park is one of Europe's premier hiking destinations, and is bisected by one of Norway's most beautiful drives. But Rondane, Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella and the desolately beautiful Hardangervidda are also superb. Within the parks' boundaries you may find wild reindeer, elk and musk ox. At the gateway to the parks, Unesco World Heritage–listed Røros, a centuries-old mining town of timber houses and turf-roofed cottages, and Lom, with its beautiful stave church, are two of inland Norway's most attractive villages.

When to Go

Feb Catch the Rørosmartnan (Røros Market) and skiing at Trysil. Be prepared to be very cold.
May & Jun Generally fine weather without the crowds of midsummer.
Jul & Aug Hiking trails are passable, rafting is in full swing and wildlife safaris are possible.

Best Places to Eat

A Vertshuset Røros

A Brimi-Bue

A Halling-Stuene

A Elvesæter Hotell

Best Places to Stay

A Finse 1222

A Erzscheidergården

A Elvesæter Hotell

A Turatgrø Hotel

A Kongsvold Fjeldstue

A Brimi-Fjellstugu

Central Norway Highlights

1 Sognefjellet Road Crossing lofty mountain passes and passing frozen lakes on this stunning drive.

2 Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park Spotting your first ever musk ox or moose on a wildlife safari.

3 Jotunheimen National Park Trekking the many mountain trails of this high-altitude national park, one of Norway's best.

4 Finse Crossing the Hardangerjøkulen icecap on a guided glacier walk.

5 Røros Exploring the copper-mining heritage of this trapped-in-time town.

6 Rondane National Park Trekking to the summit of one of the many lofty peaks.

7 Sjoa River Braving the white water on a thrilling rafting adventure.

8 Lillehammer Climbing to the top of Norway's most famous ski jump.

Eastern Central Norway

Lillehammer

Pop 27,476

Long a popular Norwegian ski resort, Lillehammer became known to the world after hosting the 1994 Winter Olympics. These Olympics, overwhelmingly considered a great success, still provide the town with some of its most interesting sights. Lying at the northern end of the lake Mjøsa and surrounded by farms, forests and small settlements, it's a laid-back place with year-round attractions, although in winter it becomes a ski town par excellence.

Lillehammer

1Top Sights

1Olympic ParkD1

1Sights

2BjerkebækC2

3Lillehammer Art MuseumB5

4Maihaugen Folk MuseumD6

5Norwegian Olympic MuseumD1

6Olympic Flame TowerF1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

7Lygårdsbakkene Ski JumpF1

4Sleeping

8Clarion Collection Hotel HammerB3

9HI Lillehammer VandrerhjemA5

10Mølla HotellB4

11ØvergaardC5

5Eating

12Café OpusB5

13HeimB4

14Lykellige DagerB5

15NikkersB4

16OlivenB5

6Drinking & Nightlife

17Haakons PubB3

18Lillehammer BryggeriC4

1Sights

oOlympic ParkAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 05 42 00; www.olympiaparken.no; Nordsetervegen 45)

After Lillehammer won its bid for the 1994 Winter Olympics, the Norwegian government ploughed more than two billion kroner into the town's infrastructure. In an example to other Olympic host cities, most amenities remain in use and visitors can tour the main Olympic sites over a large area called the .

Lillehammer Art MuseumMUSEUM

(Lillehammer Kunstmuseum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 05 44 60; www.lillehammerartmuseum.com; Stortorget 2; adult/child 100kr/free; h11am-5pm)

Lillehammer's stunning metal-and-glass art museum looks like a spaceship that's landed in the middle of town. It explores Norwegian visual arts from the early 19th century to the present. There are a few minor works by Edvard Munch, but it's mostly devoted to less well-known names. There's a lovely cafe serving lunch.

AulestadMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 22 41 10; www.aulestad.no; Aulestadvegen 6-14, Follebu; adult/child 130/65kr; h10am-5pm late May-Aug, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Sep)

Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1903, lived on a farm at Aulestad, 18km northwest of Lillehammer. It has been lovingly restored and is stuffed to the rafters with antiques, furniture, books and busts reflecting the well-to-do life of the author and his wife Karoline. It's a way out of town, so you’ll need your own vehicle to get here.

Norwegian Olympic MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ol.museum.no; Olympiaparken; adult/child 130/65kr; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep-May)

The excellent Olympic museum is at the Håkons Hall ice-hockey venue. On the ground floor there is a well-presented display covering the ancient Olympic Games, as well as all of the Olympic Games of the modern era, with a focus on the exploits of Norwegian athletes and the Lillehammer games.

Maihaugen Folk MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.maihaugen.no; Maihaugveien 1; adult/child/family Jun-Aug 170/85/425kr, Sep-May 130/65/325kr; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep-May)

Step back into the past at this surprisingly fascinating folk museum, which has collected around 180 buildings from other parts of Norway, mostly from the early 1900s. They've been rebuilt to resemble a small inland village: among the buildings on show are a stave church from Garmo, traditional turf-topped houses and shops, a post office, a schoolroom, fishing cabins and farmers' barns. Costumed actors help bring the experience to life.

BjerkebækMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 28 89 00; www.bjerkebek.no; Sigrid Undsets veg 1; adult/child/family 110/55/275kr; h10am-5pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Sep)

Bjerkebæk celebrates the life of Sigrid Undset, one of Norway's most notable authors who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1928. Her home has been restored with memorabilia from her life.

Combination tickets with Lillehammer's other museums are available.

WORTH A TRIP

OLYMPIC SKI SLOPES

Lillehammer has two Olympic ski slopes: Hafjell Alpine Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 27 47 00; www.hafjell.no), 15km north of town, hosted the downhill events, while Kvitfjell Alpine Facility ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 28 36 30; www.kvitfjell.no), 50km north of town, was used for cross-country. Both offer public skiing between late November and late April and they're connected by bus with Lillehammer Skysstasjon.

2Activities

oLygårdsbakkene Ski JumpSKIING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tower adult/child 25/15kr; h9am-7pm Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-5pm May & late Aug, 11-4pm Sat & Sun Sep)

The main ski jump (K120) here drops 136m with a landing-slope angle of 37.5 degrees. The opening ceremony of the Lillehammer Games was held here; the Olympic flame tower ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) stands near the foot of the jump. The ski-jump chairlift ascends to a stunning panoramic view over the town and includes entry to the viewing tower; alternatively, you can walk up the 952 steps.

zFestivals & Events

Lillehammer Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(%81 53 31 33; www.dolajazz.no)

Lillehammer Jazz Festival is held over four days in October; tickets go on sale from 1 July each year.

4Sleeping

oHI Lillehammer VandrerhjemHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 26 00 24; www.stasjonen.no; 1st fl, Railway Station; dm/s/d/f from 395/795/895/1395kr; pW)

If you've never stayed in a youth hostel, this one above the train station is the place to break the habit of a lifetime. The rooms are simple but come with a bathroom, bed linen and free wi-fi. There's a spick-and-span communal kitchen, but approach the downstairs cafe with caution (hot-dog soup anyone?!). Free parking is a bonus.

Lillehammer CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 25 33 33; www.lillehammer-camping.no; Dampsagveien 47; tent & 2 people 170-195kr, cabins 395-1585kr; hyear-round; W)

Not the most attractive campsite you'll ever pitch a peg on, but the lakeside location and facilities – laundry facilities, water-sports equipment, children's play areas and even a mock Viking camp – make it more palatable. Note that cabins have an obligatory cleaning fee.

ØvergaardB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 25 99 99; www.oevergaard.net; Jernbanegata 24; s/d with shared bathroom 445/790kr; pW)

Just above the centre of town, this friendly B&B has simple rooms with plenty of family character in quiet surrounds. It's a well-run place and about as cheap as you'll get in Norway. It's an equally short walk to both the town centre and the Olympic sites.

oClarion Collection Hotel HammerHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 26 73 73; www.nordicchoicehotels.com; Stortorget 108b; tw/d incl half-board from 1345/1545kr; W)

In an architecturally pleasing, mustard-yellow building that echoes traditional Norwegian architecture, this hotel is a solid choice. Monochrome rooms are a bit short on character, but comfortable enough – and the inclusion of both breakfast and a dinner buffet make it great value (at least for Norway).

Mølla HotellHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 05 70 80; www.mollahotell.no; Elvegata 12; s/d from 1050/1760kr; pW)

This functional hotel has been tacked on to the side of the town's old mill. The vivid yellow facade looks a bit putrid (it's supposedly inspired by a wheatsheaf), but things are a lot nicer inside: bare-brick walls, stripy carpets and plain but pleasant rooms dotted with memorabilia from the '94 Olympics. The rooftop bar has super views.

5Eating

OlivenCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 26 50 20; Storgata 57; salads & sandwiches 59-119kr; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

A little bit of the Mediterranean has travelled north to Norway thanks to this attractive cafe, where you can tuck into spanakopita, fresh olives and hummus wraps. Olive oil, coffee and other goodies are for sale inside.

Café OpusCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Stortorget 63; baguettes from 59kr; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

Hugely popular for its baguettes, rolls and cakes (and for its outdoor tables in summer), Café Opus gets the simple things right – tasty food, friendly service and smart-casual decor.

oLykellige DagerCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %921 32 682; www.lykkeligedager.no; Storgata 49; lunch mains 129-199kr; h7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)

In a hard-to-miss glass-and-steel box on the main street of Storgata, this excellent cafe serves a range of tempting, on-trend lunch dishes – açai bowls, Asian-style chicken salads, Thai soups and detox smoothies. The cakes are really good too – and on a nice day, you can sit outside on the pavement tables.

'Happy Days' indeed!

HeimGASTROPUB$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 10 00 82; www.heim.no; Storgata 84; dinner mains 179-269kr; h3pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 3pm-3am Fri, noon-3pm Sat)

This warm and welcoming gastropub has fast become one of the town's most frequented hang-outs since opening its doors in 2014. It attracts all kinds of diners, from hipsters to ale enthusiasts, and the hearty menu of fish and chips, bangers and mash and meat-and-cheese platters is just the ticket for easy, all-hours dining.

NikkersINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 74 30; www.nikkers.no; Elvegata 18; mains 159-269kr; h11am-11pm)

Everyone's favourite winter hangout in central Lillehammer: a brewpub-bar-bistro where a moose has apparently walked through the wall (look outside for the full effect). It's popular for big, filling mains like burgers, steaks and reindeer stew, and the riverside terrace is lovely – but it can get rowdy in season.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oLillehammer BryggeriBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %950 19 108; www.lillehammerbryggeri.no; Elvegata 19; h5-11pm Wed & Thu, 5pm-1am Fri & Sat)

This is a cracking spot to down beers with the locals – an enthusiast-run brewery with an ale-making history dating back to 1847, bar a few closures here and there. Beer bottles line the walls, and vaulted ceilings provide an atmospheric place to down some brews. There's also a no-frills, beer-friendly menu of sausages, stews and the like.

Haakons PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 26 35 50; Stortorget 93; h1pm-3am Mon-Thu, noon-3am Fri & Sat)

A spit-and-sawdust locals' pub, heavy on the wood and light on the luxuries. By day it's the preserve of elbow-on-the-bar drinkers; when the sun sets it kicks into action, becoming a crowded and agreeable place to drink. It can get a little raucous during the ski season.

8Information

Lillehammer Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 28 98 00; www.lillehammer.com; Jernbanetorget 2, Lillehammer Skysstasjon; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat rest of year) Inside the train station.

8Getting There & Away

Lillehammer Skysstasjon ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the main transport terminal for buses, trains and taxis.

Lavprisekspressen (www.lavprisekspressen.no) bus services run to/from Oslo (300kr, three hours, three to four daily) via Gardermoen Airport.

Nor-Way (www.nor-way.no) runs to Bergen (646kr, nine hours, one or two daily).

Trains run to/from Oslo (414kr, 2¼ hours, around hourly) and Trondheim (from 754kr, 4¼ to seven hours, four to six daily). Some trains also stop at Hamar.

Hunderfossen

Some 15km north of Lillehammer, just off the E6, Hunderfossen has a handful of attractions worth going out of your way for.

In summer there are frequent buses from the Lillehammer Skysstasjon. In winter the service is more erratic. A considerable uphill walk is involved to reach the bobsled run.

1Sights & Activities

Norwegian Museum of Road HistoryMUSEUM

(Norsk Vegmuseum; GOOGLE MAP ; %61 28 52 50; www.vegmuseum.no; Hunderfossvegen 757; h10am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-3pm Tue-Sun rest of year)F

The Norwegian Museum of Road History tells the story of Norway’s battle to forge roads through its challenging geography. Up the hill and part of the same complex, the Fjellsprengnings-museet (Rock-Blasting Museum) is a 240m-long tunnel that gives you a real insight into the difficulties of building a tunnel through the Norwegian mountains.

oOlympic Bobsled RunADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 05 42 00; www.olympiaparken.no; Hunderfossvegen 680, Fåberg; adult/child 250/170kr; h10am-5pm daily late Jun-late Aug, hours vary rest of year)

It's not often you get the chance to hurtle down an Olympic-level bobsled run – but that's exactly what's on offer here. Wheeled 'bobrafts' take five passengers and hit a top speed of 100km/h. The real thing, taxibobs (990kr per person) take four passengers and reach an exhilarating 130km/h – you’re down the mountain in 70 seconds.

Hunderfossen FamilieparkAMUSEMENT PARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 27 55 30; www.hunderfossen.no; Fossekrovegen, Fåberg; adult/child 410/355kr; h10am-6pm late Jun–mid-Aug, hours vary early Jun & mid-Aug–early Sep, closed mid-Sep–mid-May; c)

The Hunderfossen Familiepark, one of Norway’s best parks for children, has water rides, 3D presentations, fairy-tale palaces and wandering trolls. The latest attraction is a huge rollercoaster. If your child is under 90cm tall, he or she gets in free.

8Getting There & Away

Trains from Lillehammer's Skysstasjon stop in Hunderfossen (50kr, four daily).

WORTH A TRIP

PEER GYNT VEGEN

Of all the beautiful mountain roads of central Norway, one stands out for its combination of scenery and storytelling: Peer Gynt Vegen (www.peergyntvegen.no; toll 70kr; hJun-Sep). Running for 60km from Skei to Espedalen, it takes you along the trail followed by that ill-fated fictional character created by Henrik Ibsen and offers fine views of the Jotunheimen and Rondane massifs en route. Climbing up to 1053m above sea level at the Listulhøgda lookout point, it passes the Solbrå Seter farm, where Gudbrandsdal cheese was first made in 1863. An open-air arena next to Gålåvatn lake is the scene for an opera concert in early August of Edvard Grieg's Peer Gynt. To reach Skei, head north of Lillehammer along the E6 and at Tretten take the turn-off for the Rv254. At Svingvoll, Peer Gynt Vegen branches off to the northwest.

Hamar

Pop 26,000

This medium-sized town would never win a beauty contest, but it does possess a surprising number of attractions that are worth a detour on your way between Oslo and the north.

1Sights

DomkirkeoddenMUSEUM

(Glass Cathedral; GOOGLE MAP ; %62 54 27 00; www.domkirkeodden.no; Strandveien 100; adult/child 110/50kr; h10am-5pm daily mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun mid-May–mid-Jun & end Aug)

West of town (1.5km), this extensive open-air museum includes 18th- and 19th-century buildings, a folk history exhibit featuring the creepy Devil's Finger (a finger cast in pewter with various spooky legends attached to it), and the ruins of the castle. But the centrepiece is Hamar's tumbledown medieval cathedral, now protected inside a stunning glass enclosure.

Viking Ship Sports ArenaSTADIUM

(Vikingskipet; GOOGLE MAP ; %62 51 75 00; www.hoa.no; Åkersvikaveien 1; 50kr; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat & Sun 1-17 Aug, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri mid-Oct–Mar, closed rest of year)

Hamar's standout landmark is this sports arena, a graceful structure with the lines of an upturned Viking ship. The building, which hosted the speed skating during the 1994 Winter Olympics in Lillehammer, holds 20,000 spectators, encompasses 9600 sq metres of ice and is 94.6m long. Both in scale and aesthetics, it's an impressive place.

From late July to mid-August, it's open to the public for ice-skating (115kr per day).

Norwegian Railway MuseumMUSEUM

(Norsk Jernbanemuseum; GOOGLE MAP ; %62 51 31 60; www.jernbanemuseet.no; Strandveien 163; adult/child 90/55kr; h10am-5pm Jul–mid-Aug, 11am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun rest of year)

Train spotters will have steam blowing out of their ears at the sight of this lovely railway museum, which brings together a fine collection of train-related ephemera – from engine sheds, rail carriages and steam locomotives to vintage station paraphernalia. Of equal interest are the displays exploring the extraordinary engineering feats required to carve the railways through Norway's rugged terrain.

It's about 2km west of Hamar's town centre.

WORTH A TRIP

WORLD'S OLDEST PADDLE STEAMER

Skibladner ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 14 40 80; www.skibladner.no; Hamar-Lillehammer one way/return 250/350kr, under 12yr free; hTue, Thu & Sat late-Jun–mid-Aug), the world's oldest paddle steamer, is a wonderfully relaxing way to explore Lake Mjøsa. First built in Sweden in 1856, the boat was refitted and lengthened to 165ft (50m) in 1888. From late June until mid-August, the Skibladner plies the lake between Hamar, Gjøvik and Lillehammer. Most travellers opt for the route between Hamar and Lillehammer (3½ hours) on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The boat leaves Hamar at 11.15am, arrives in Lillehammer at 3pm and returns straight away, arriving back in Hamar at 6.45pm. If, as most people do, you only travel one way, then it's easy enough to hop on a train back to your starting point.

zFestivals & Events

Middle Ages FestivalCULTURAL

(www.middelalderfestival.no; h2nd weekend in Jun)

Locals in period costume; Gregorian chants in the glass cathedral.

Hamar Beer FestivalBEER

(Hamar Ølfestival; hearly Jun)

Beer, music, more beer.

4Sleeping & Eating

Clarion Collection Hotel AstoriaBUSINESS HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %62 70 70 00; www.nordicchoicehotels.no; Torggata 23; d 1090-1490kr; W)

It might look like a gigantic cardboard box, but this reliable hotel is the most obvious place to rest up for the night in downtown Hamar. The rooms lack decorative sparkle, but they're decently sized, and breakfast and dinner is included in the rates.

Vikingskipet Hamar VanderhjemHOTEL, HOSTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %62 52 60 60; www.vikingskipet.no; Åkersvikavegen 24; s/d 825/960kr, apt 1190-2390kr; pW)

This excellent wood-clad modern hostel is by far the best budget option near town. There's a range of simply decorated single and double rooms of various sizes, and some terrific, spacious apartments that can sleep up to four people.

Scandic HamarHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21 61 40 00; www.scandichotels.com; Vangsvegen 121; s/d from 849/1149kr; pW)

It's huge and unrelentingly modern from the outside, but the Scandic has a few surprises on the inside – including surprisingly attractive rooms decorated with abstract murals depicting Hamar architecture. The usual extras include a gym and decent restaurant, but it's short on charm, and a good five-minute walk to the town centre.

Kai & Mattis CaféINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %62 53 01 45; Torggata 53; mains 150kr; h11am-6pm)

If you've ever wondered what an art-deco boudoir looked like (don't pretend you haven't!) then this place, with its burgundy red walls and over-the-top decorations, will probably give you a fair idea. Boudoir or not, the meals are good – as well as the sandwich and burger staples, they do meals such as chicken curry pie.

8Information

Hamar Regional Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %400 36 036; www.visit-hedmark.no/hamarregionen; Grønnegata 52; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri rest of year) On the main square in the town centre.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Lavprisekspressen buses go to Oslo (300kr) once or twice a day.

Train

Trains go to Oslo (290kr, 1¼ hours, once or twice hourly), Røros (587kr, 3¼ hours, up to four daily) and Trondheim (836kr, five hours, four to six daily) via Lillehammer (143kr, 45 minutes).

WORTH A TRIP

ELVERUM'S FORESTRY MUSEUM

Forests have been central to life in Norway since time immemorial, and the quirky Norsk Forestry Museum (Norsk Skogmuseum; GOOGLE MAP ; %62 40 90 00; www.skogmus.no; Rv20; adult/child 110/50kr, incl Glomdal Museum 150/90kr; h10am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm rest of year), 1km from downtown Elverum, celebrates them in all their various forms. The museum's centrepiece is the Fantastic Tree, a 7.5m-high monster made of 10km of aluminium pipes, along with a huge glowing wall that shows the process of photosynthesis in action.

Trysil

Pop 6763

Surrounded by forested hillsides close to the Swedish border, and overlooked by Norway's largest collection of ski slopes, little Trysil is well worth a detour, with year-round activities taking you into the wilderness.

2Activities

Although Trysil lives and breathes winter skiing, for the rest of the year you can do just about anything to keep active, from canoeing and canyoning to horse riding, as well as the more sedate pastime of fishing. The tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %62 45 10 00; www.trysil.com; Storvegen 3; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) can organise any of these activities for you.

Perhaps the most rewarding activity in summer is cycling. There are at least six cycle routes: the shortest 6km, the longest 38km. Route maps are available from the tourist office. Bikes can be hired from most hotels and campsites for around 200kr per day.

4Sleeping

Trysil HyttegrendCABIN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %901 32 761; www.trysilhytte.com; Ørånset; campsites 210kr, huts 590-840kr; pW)

By the river's edge, 2.5km south of town, this excellent site has many drawcards, including wireless internet, a wood-fired sauna, plenty of activities, a playground for children and a perfect riverside setting. All cabins have cooking facilities.

oRadisson Blu ResortHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %62 44 90 00; www.radissonblu.com/en/resort-trysil; Hotellveien 1; summer s/d from 990/1090kr, winter d from 1990kr; pWs)

One of the few Trysil hotels to open year-round, this is Trysil's most luxurious accommodation. Outside the ski season (when prices are high) it's a first-rate bargain with huge, impeccable rooms in a large wooden building surrounded by ski slopes. It also contains an impressive pool complex, a choice of two restaurants, a bowling alley and burger bar.

8Getting There & Away

The Nor-Way Bussekspress 'Trysil Ekspressen' connects Trysil with Oslo (279kr, 3¼ hours, twice daily).

Røros

Pop 5576

Røros, a charming Unesco World Heritage–listed site set in a small hollow of stunted forests and bleak fells, is one of Norway's most beautiful villages. The Norwegian writer Johan Falkberget described Røros as 'a place of whispering history'. This historic copper-mining town (once called Bergstad, or mountain city) has wonderfully preserved, colourful wooden houses that climb the hillside, as well as fascinating relics of the town's mining past. It feels a little bit like a Norwegian version of the Wild West.

Røros has become something of a retreat for artists, who lend even more character to this enchanted place.

Røros is one of the coldest places in Norway – the temperature once dropped to a mighty bracing -50.4°C.

History

According to local legend, in 1644 Olsen Åsen shot a reindeer at Storvola (Storwartz), 13km from Røros. The enraged creature pawed at the ground, revealing a glint of copper ore. In the same year Røros Kobberverk (Røros Copperworks) was established, followed two years later by a royal charter that granted it exclusive rights to all minerals, forest products and waterways (and local labour) within 40km of the original discovery.

The mining company located its headquarters at Røros due to the abundant wood (fuel) and the rapids along the river Hyttelva, which provided hydroelectric power. The use of fire in breaking up the rock in the mines was a perilous business and cost Røros dearly. Røros first burnt to the ground during the Gyldenløve conflict with the Swedes between 1678 and 1679, and the smelter was damaged by fire again in 1953. In 1977, after 333 years of operation, the company went bankrupt.

Røros

1Top Sights

1SmelthyttaC2

1Sights

2Harald Sohlsbergs Plass 59C1

Malmplassen (Ore Place)C2

3Miners' Cottages (Flanderborg Gate)D2

4Røros KirkeC1

5SlegghaugenD2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Guided Walking ToursB3

4Sleeping

8Frøyas HusC2

5Eating

11Kaffestugu CafeteriaB2

12Trygstad BakeriB2

Vertshuset RørosC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

Berkel og BarC2

3Entertainment

Organ RecitalsC1

7Shopping

13Galleri ThomasgårdenC1

14Hartzgården SølvsmieC2

15Potteriet RørosB2

1Sights

Røros' historic district, characterised by the striking log architecture of its 80 protected buildings, takes in the entire central area. The two main streets, Bergmannsgata and Kjerkgata, are lined with historical homes and buildings, all under preservation orders. The entire area is like an architectural museum of old Norway. For one of the loveliest turf-roofed homes you'll see, head up to the top of Kjerkgata to the house signposted as Harald Sohlsbergs Plass 59 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kjerkgata).

If Røros looks familiar, that's because several films have been made here, including Røros author Johan Falkberget's classic An-Magrit, starring Jane Fonda. Flanderborg gate starred in some of Astrid Lindgren's Pippi Longstocking classics and Røros even stood in for Siberia in A Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich.

In addition to the main museum website, www.worldheritageroros.no is an excellent resource about Røros' historical sites.

oSmelthyttaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rorosmuseet.no; Malmplassen; adult/student/child incl guided tour 100/80kr/free; h10am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm early Jun & mid-Aug–mid-Sep, 10am-3pm mid-Sep–May)

Built on the site of a former copper-smelting works that burnt down in 1975, this museum brings the town's mining heritage to life. Intricate working models demonstrate the water- and horse-powered smelting processes, and if you want to watch the real thing, live copper smelting demonstrations are held daily at 3pm in July and August.

Outside the museum entrance spreads the large open area known as the Malmplassen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (Ore Place), where loads of ore were dumped and weighed on the large wooden scale. Just across the stream from the museum are the protected Slegghaugen (Slag Heaps; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), from which there are lovely views over town.

Miners' Cottages (Flanderborg Gate)AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Off the southwestern corner of the slag heaps, the historic smelting district with its tiny turf-roofed miners' cottages, particularly along Sleggveien, is one of Røros' prettiest corners.

Røros KirkeCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kjerkgata; adult/child 50kr/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-1pm Mon-Sat early Jun & mid-Aug–mid-Sep, 11am-1pm Sat rest of year)

Røros' copper industry was booming when local notables decided to finance the construction of this lovely – and large – Lutheran church in 1784, at a cost of 23,000 riksdaler (at the time, miners earned about 50 riksdaler per year). It's vast, with space for 1600 worshippers, and a fittingly grand monument to the town's mining fortunes.

Olavsgruva MineMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 40 61 70; www.rorosmuseet.no/olavsgruva; adult/child/senior & student 120kr/free/100kr; htours every 2hr 11am-5pm Jun-Aug, tour times vary rest of year)

For a gritty insight into Røros' mining past, head 13km north of Røros to this centuries-old mine, where ore has been extracted since the 1650s. Tours travel 50m underground down dingy tunnels to the main miners' hall. It can be slippery underfoot, so good shoes are essential, as is a warm jacket – the temperature hovers at 5°C year-round.

Johan Falkberget MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.falkberget.no; Ratvolden; adult/child 100kr/free; hguided tours 1pm Tue & Thu-Sun Jul-early Aug, by appointment rest of year)

The works of Røros' favourite son, author Johan Falkberget (1879–1967), have been translated into 19 languages and cover 300 years of the region's mining history. His most famous work, An-Magrit, tells the story of a peasant girl who transported copper ore in the Røros mining district. Entry to the beautiful grounds surrounding the museum is free.

The museum is at Ratvolden, beside lake Rugelsjø, 20km north of Røros. To get there, take a local train to Rugeldalen station, where a small walking track leads to the museum.

2Activities

Canoeing, horse riding and, in winter, sleigh rides and ice fishing are possible in Røros. The tourist office has a full list of operators.

Røros HuskyDOG SLEDDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %915 15 228; www.roroshusky.no; 1250kr; hNov-Apr)

Owned by locals Torgeir Oren and Mary Amundsen, this husky company runs winter trips ranging from a 90-minute run to multiday adventures. It's located about 10km north of Røros, but bookings can be made via the tourist office.

Husky PointDOG SLEDDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %977 38 903; www.huskypoint.no; Kopparleden 9001, Os; dog-sledding winter/summer adult from 1200/1100kr, child year-round 600kr)S

Based near the town of Os, about 20km south of Røros, this dog-sledding company can take you on a 90-minute husky-driven ride whatever the time of year: in winter, the sleds are on skis, and in summer they're on wheels. If you feel up to it, you can even opt to take the reins.

TTours

Røros ReinWILDLIFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %979 74 966; www.rorosrein.no; Hagaveien 17; hNov-Apr)S

If you've always wanted to learn how to steer a reindeer sleigh, then this winter-only company can help. It's run by a local Sami family, the Nordfjells, who will teach you all about the reindeer and even let you join in with the herding if you wish. Afterwards, a traditional meal is served inside a Sami lavvo (hut).

Guided Walking ToursWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 100kr/free; htours 11am, 1pm & 3pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am early Jun & mid-Aug–mid-Sep, 11am Thu & Sat mid-Sep–May)

These interesting walking tours are run by the tourist office and illustrate the town's past, as well as some of the important characters who shaped its history. They last just over an hour and start at Smelthytta/Malmplassen and end at Røros church. Sign up at the tourist office.

zFestivals & Events

RørosmartnanCULTURAL

(Røros Market; http://rorosmartnan.no; hFeb)

The biggest winter event is Rørosmartnan (Røros Market), which began in 1644 as a rendezvous for hunters who ventured into town to sell their products to miners and buy supplies.

Thanks to a royal decree issued in 1853 stipulating that a grand market be held annually from the penultimate Tuesday of February to the following Saturday, it continues today. Nowadays it's celebrated with cultural programs, street markets and live entertainment.

EldenPERFORMING ARTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.elden-roros.no; tickets from 290kr; hlate Jul-early Aug)

In late July and early August, Røros stages a nightly three-hour rock opera that recounts the invasion of Trøndelag by Sweden in 1718, covering the occupation of Røros and the subsequent death of thousands of soldiers on their frozen trek homewards to Sweden. It's enacted on the slag heaps in the upper part of town.

Fermund RaceSPORTS

(www.femundlopet.no; hFeb)

One of Europe's longest dog-sled races starts and ends in Røros in the first week of February.

Winter Chamber Music FestivalMUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinterfestspill.no; hMar)

Concerts held in Røros Kirke in the first week of March.

4Sleeping

Røros is overrun with day-trippers in summer and suffers heavily from coach tour overload – so if you're planning on staying overnight, reserve well ahead and expect prices to be substantially higher than elsewhere.

The tourist office keeps a list of summer cabins and guesthouses, some within walking distance of town.

oErzscheidergårdenGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 11 94; www.erzscheidergaarden.no; Spell Olaveien 6; s 900-1150kr, d 1250-1350kr; pW)

For our money, this cosy guesthouse is the top place to stay in Røros. It has the vibe of a traditional mountain hostelry, so expect wood, rugs, rustic furniture and old-fashioned beds – but it's all tastefully done and exceedingly comfortable. The home-cooked buffet breakfast is an absolute feast and almost worth coming for on its own.

Frøyas HusB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 10 10; www.froyashus.no; Mørkstugata 4; s/d 950/1050kr; W)

With only two rooms, this gorgeous guesthouse has an intimacy you won't find elsewhere. Rooms are small and have scarcely changed in over 300 years – it's rustic in the best sense of the word. Throw in friendly service, a lovely courtyard cafe and public areas strewn with local antiques and curiosities, and it's all perfectly integrated into the Røros experience.

Vertshuset RørosHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 93 50; www.vertshusetroros.no; Kjerkgata 34; r 1100-1700kr; W)

Located in a historic 17th-century inn on the main pedestrian thoroughfare, the Vertshuset Røros is a wonderful choice. The wood-clad rooms are generously sized and have numerous period touches, such as original timber beams. Pricier rooms have small kitchenettes, while the two-bed apartments are perfect for families. As with all old buildings, noise can be an issue.

Do be aware that during busy periods they may book you a room at their 'sister' hotel, the Røros Hotell ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 40 80 00; www.roroshotell.no; An Magritveien 10; r 1250-1400kr; pWs) – a very different kind of place.

Idrettsparken HotellHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 10 89; www.idrettsparken.no; Øra 25; cabins from 550kr, hotel r from 900kr; p)

Finding rooms on a budget is tricky in Røros, but this wallet-friendly, family-run establishment is a decent option. It has rooms of various sizes, from quad dorms and cabins to smallish doubles, and while the decor looks badly dated in places, it's all spick and span. Look out for the display of vintage pottery in the breakfast room.

5Eating

Frøyas HusCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %928 83 530; Mørkstugata 4; snacks 50-100kr; h10am-5pm)

A blissed-out garden courtyard cafe serving good waffles and rømmegrøt, a traditional, slightly sour porridge eaten with cured hams in the evening.

Trygstad BakeriBAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 10 29; www.trygstadbakeri.no; Kjerkgata 12; snacks 30-80kr; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

This standout cafe and bakery will treat you to the town's most popular coffee and baked goodies.

Kaffestugu CafeteriaNORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kaffestuggu.no; Bergmannsgata 18; mains 129-250kr; h10am-11pm)

Set in one of Røros' classic timber buildings, with a small outdoor courtyard, this perennially popular cafe has the air of an old Norwegian tearoom, and it's a good spot, indeed, for coffee, cake and pastries. Main meals tend towards the hearty and filling: smørbrød (open sandwich), reindeer steak, sausages and stews, often served with heaps of potato and cabbage.

oVertshuset RørosNORWEGIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 93 50; Kjerkgata 34; mains lunch 110-190kr, dinner 295-340kr, 3-/6-course menu 450/798kr; h10am-10pm)

The town's best food is served at the Vertshuset Inn, with a strong focus on local flavours: mountain trout, Arctic char, local beef, pork and a great selection of cheeses. The highlight is the six-course evening menu, a feast of mountain flavours, served in the inn's cosy beamed dining room. Lunch mains are tasty, but less ambitious.

6Drinking & Entertainment

Berkel og BarPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 93 50; www.vertshusetroros.no/en/berkel-og-bar; Kjerkgata 34; h10am-11pm)

This gastropub is a welcome addition to the Vertshuset stable. It gets its name from the berkel, a meat slicer invented in 1898 and still used to slice up the cold meats that feature on the excellent meat and cheese platters (459kr). Otherwise, it's mainly pubby food: burgers, pulled beef brioches and the like.

The pub brews several of its own beers and also brings in a good choice from other Norwegian breweries.

Organ RecitalsCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kjerkgata; h6-6.45pm Mon-Sat early Jul–mid-Aug)

For five weeks from early July to early August, the church hosts organ recitals, sometimes accompanied by orchestral musicians from across Europe.

7Shopping

Potteriet RørosCERAMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 17 10; www.potteriet-roros.no; Fargarveien 4; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)

Here you'll find pottery based on traditional designs from all over Trøndelag, along with some creative modern interpretations. The pottery workshop next door is open to the public and staff are always happy to explain the history behind each design (morning is the best time to catch them at work).

Galleri ThomasgårdenCERAMICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %482 19 008; Kjerkgata 48; h11am-5pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, 11am-11pm Thu, noon-5pm Sun)

At the worthwhile Galleri Thomasgården, potter Torgeir Henriksen creates rustic stoneware and porcelain. You will also find the wonderful nature-inspired wood carvings of Henry Solli. The player piano is one of only two in Norway and dates back to 1929.

Hartzgården SølvsmieJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 05 50; Kjerkgata 35; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

At this silversmith's shop you'll find locally handcrafted silver jewellery with an emphasis on Viking themes, as well as a small historical-jewellery exhibit.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 00 00; www.roros.no; Peder Hiortsgata 2; h9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) The first port of call for town info.

World Heritage Roros (www.worldheritageroros.no) Details Røros' historical sites.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Widerøe (www.wideroe.no) flies from Oslo a couple of times a day except Saturday. There's no airport bus; a taxi into town costs about 100kr.

Bus

There are daily buses from Røros to Trondheim (319kr, four hours, two to four daily) leaving from the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Johan Falkbergets vei). You can see timetables at the ATB (www.atb.no) website.

Train

Røros lies on the eastern railway line between Oslo (249kr to 810kr, five hours, four or five daily) and Trondheim (from 249kr to 304kr, 2½ hours).

Femundsmarka National Park

Formed in 1971 to protect the lake, forests, marshes and mountain peaks of the area around Femunden, this 573-sq-km park is often overlooked by foreign tourists – despite the fact that it's been named one of the three best hiking areas in Norway by the Norwegian hiking association.

If you're lucky, you may see wild reindeer grazing in the heights and, in summer, a herd of around 30 musk oxen roams the area along the Røa and Mugga Rivers (in winter they migrate to the Funäsdalen area). It's thought that this group split off from an older herd in the Dovrefjell area and wandered all the way here. There are also a handful of exceedingly rare brown bears, as well as even rarer lynx and, occasionally, wolves drifting by from other areas.

DON'T MISS

ELGÅHOGNA HIKE

One especially fine, and fairly easy, hike is the 3½-hour, 10.5km-return hike up Mt Elgåhogna (1403m). From Elgå, the main village (and only real road access point into the park), head south for 4km to a small farm building on the left. A hundred metres further south is a small parking area where the trail begins. The walk is well marked with red dots painted onto rocks and trees. It starts off passing though stunted woodland before emerging onto a barren tundrascape that climbs moderately upwards. The last part to the summit is steeper and involves a little scrambling over rocks. All the time the views back down westward over the lake get steadily better, but this walk saves its best for last – a view from the summit over Sweden and across endless barren sub-Arctic moorland and tundra.

2Activities

This is excellent hiking country and the very helpful national park information centre in Elgå can provide route suggestions and maps.

M/S Fæmund IIBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %963 92 017; www.femund.no; one way adult/child 255/170kr)

The historic ferry M/S Fæmund II sails daily at 9am between mid-June and mid-August from Synnervika (also spelt Søndervika), on the northern shore of Lake Femunden, to Elgå (6½ hours return). From mid-June to late August, buses leave Røros train station for Synnervika 45 minutes before the boat's departure. Buses for Røros later meet the boat at Synnervika.

4Sleeping

On the western side of the lake, the two main sleeping options are Johnsgård Turistsenter ( GOOGLE MAP ; %62 45 99 25; www.johnsgard.no; Langsjøveien 631; cabins 195-795kr, camping 200kr), 9km west of Buvika, and Langen Gjestegård ( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 41 37 18; www.langen-gjestegaard.no; s/d from 550/900kr), a cosy, turf-roofed farmhouse near the lake.

On the eastern shore of the lake is the tiny village of Elgå, which is the main base for the park. It has campsites (with cabins) and a park information centre.

8Getting There & Away

The M/S Fæmund II ferry runs a lovely, old-fashioned service on Lake Femunden between Synnervika and Elgå, with connecting buses to Røros.

WORTH A TRIP

NATIONAL PARKS OF NORTHERN CENTRAL NORWAY

Breheimen National ParkNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

One of Norway's newest national parks, Breheimen opened in 2009 and covers 1691 sq km. It's wedged between the Jotunheimen and Jostedalsbreen national parks and has some of the best hiking in the southern half of Norway. However, walking here is not for the inexperienced. Trail markings are harder to follow than in some more trodden parks and all the DNT huts are unstaffed. This is the place for an off-the-beaten-track adventure. For more information, visit the Lom tourist office.

Reinheimen National ParkNATIONAL PARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

Founded in 2006, this 1969-sq-km park stretches from Lom in the southeast to Åndalsnes in the northwest. It's a varied and relatively unexplored park that is steep and mountainous in the west with a more gentle Alpine plateau in the east. It's home to wild reindeer, wolverines and golden eagles. For more information, visit the Lom tourist office.

Dovre National ParkNATIONAL PARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nasjonalparkriket.no)

Immediately north of Rondane National park, this 289-sq-km park was established in 2003 and is famous for having almost every Norwegian flora type within its borders. The park's highest point is Fokstuhøe (1716m).

Oppdal

Pop 6691

Located to the north of Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park, little Oppdal is a convenient base from which to explore the wilderness areas to the south. There's nothing much to detain you in town, but the surrounding countryside is beautiful with loads of activities on offer.

2Activities

oOppdal SafariWILDLIFE WATCHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %986 93 200; www.moskussafari.no; Olav Skasliens veg 1; adult/child 425/300kr; hMay-Sep)

This experienced company offers fantastic wildlife-watching safaris to spot musk ox, moose and other wild inhabitants of Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella. Trips last about seven hours and you'll need good footwear, warm clothes and binoculars if you have them. The meeting point for tours is at Oppdal railway station. They also offer canoe and boat rental.

Oppdal SkisenterSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.oppdalskisenter.no; Kjerkvegen 112; 1-day ski-pass adult/child 410/340kr)

The three-part Oppdal Skisenter climbs the slopes from Hovden, Stølen and Vangslia, all within easy reach of town. The smaller Ådalen ski area nearby has two lifts. Vangslia is generally the easiest, with a couple of beginners' runs; Stølen offers intermediate skiing; and Hovden has three challenging advanced runs. The season runs from late November to late April.

Opplev OppdalTOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 40 41 80; www.opplevoppdal.no; Granmo Camping, Dovre Rd 638; hrafting early Jun–mid-Aug)

This multi-activity company specialises in white-water rafting on the Driva River. Their standard half-day, 14km run costs 840kr, plus a 50kr premium on Saturdays. The more sedate 4km tour, suitable for families, costs 440kr. They also offer other activities like canyoning and ziplining. Their rafting trips are based at Granmo Camping

4Sleeping & Eating

Granmo CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %996 42 947; www.granmocamping.no; Dovre Rd 638; camping 150kr, vans 230kr, cabins 400-1050kr; pW)

A well-run campsite, 6km to the south of Oppdal, offering spacious campsites and self-catering cabins, spread out over a large grassy field. There's a play area for kids and a miniature petting zoo. It's right alongside the Driva River, and rafting expeditions start nearby, run by Opplev Oppdal.

oQuality Hotel SkiferBUSINESS HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %73 60 50 80; www.skiferhotel.no; Olav Skasliens vei 9; d from 1130kr; pW)

A surprisingly swish hotel in the middle of Oppdal offering by far the town's best rooms, with smart grey accents, stylish furniture and a great restaurant that offers a good-value nightly buffet (310kr). Some rooms face the mountains, others the main road, but all are very comfortable.

Møllen Restaurant & PizzeriaINTERNATIONAL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 42 18 00; Dovrevegen 2; pizzas from 189kr, mains from 240kr; h1-10pm Sun-Fri, 1-11pm Sat)

In the town centre alongside the E6, this jack-of-all-trades kind of place has a huge menu spanning everything from pasta to fish to steak and, just in case you haven't eaten one in a while, pizzas and burgers. It's a good choice if you feel like a sit-down meal.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 40 04 70; www.oppdal.com; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) A small office by the train station.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Nor-Way runs services between Bergen (793kr, 12½ hours) and Trondheim (271kr, two hours) daily.

Lavprisekspressen buses also pass through once or twice daily en route between Oslo and Trondheim.

Train

Trains run to Oslo (839kr, five hours, four daily), stopping at local stations including Dombås (206kr, 50 minutes) and Otta (303kr, 1½ hours). Heading north, trains run to Trondheim (236kr, 1½ hours, four daily).

Trollheimen

The small Trollheimen range, with a variety of trails through gentle mountains and lake-studded upland regions, is most readily accessed from Oppdal. From Oppdal take the west bound 70 road for 15km to the village of Albu where a toll road (50kr by car), signed Gjevilvasshytta, leads 8.8km to Osen, a small collection of lakeside cabins and the main entrance point to the wilderness region. You could walk the toll road, but at weekends it's quite busy with cars and the walk wouldn't be much fun. The best map to use for the park is Statens Kartverk's Turkart Trollheimen (1:75,000), which is available at the tourist office in Oppdal.

2Activities

VassendsetraHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

A straightforward hiking destination in Trollheimen is the hut and historic farm at Vassendsetra. From Osen (the outlet of the river Gjevilvatnet), 3km north of the main road to Sunndalsøra, you can take the boat Trollheimen II all the way to Vassendsetra. From July to mid-August it leaves from Osen daily at noon and from Vassendsetra at 3.30pm.