4Sleeping

Vassendsetra HutLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %Oslo 40 00 18 68; www.tt.no; dm DNT member/nonmember 255/365kr; hyear-round)

An unstaffed but otherwise comfortable mountain lodge. Bring your own food.

GjevilvasshyttaLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %Oslo 40 00 18 68; www.tt.no/booking-gjevilvasshytta; dm incl breakfast & dinner DNT member/nonmember 815/1630kr)

One of Norway's most beautiful mountain lodges, this places dates back to 1819 and is very well organised with beds in small dorms or twin rooms. It's open year-round but is unstaffed in the winter. It also serves evening meals.

8Getting There & Away

There's no useful public transport to the Trollheimen range, so you will definitely need your own mode of travel here – whether that's car or bicycle.

Dombås

Pop 1200

Dombås, a popular adventure and winter-sports centre, comprises little more than a couple of petrol stations and a shopping complex, and is far outdone in the beauty stakes by its surroundings. It does make a convenient break for travellers between the highland national parks and the western fjords, though. That said, there's more choice of activities to the north in Oppdal, while Sjoa is the region's best location for rafting.

There is one really compelling reason to pass though – and that's the chance to catch the epic Rauma Railway from Dombås to Åndalsnes, without doubt one of Norway's most beautiful train rides.

2Activities

Bjorli SkisenterSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 55 77; www.bjorliskisenter.no; Bjorlivegen 84; c)

From early autumn until Easter, downhill skiing is possible at Bjorli Skisenter, which has 11 runs, six lifts and a dedicated children's area.

Dombås SkisenterSKIING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.trolltun.no; Skitrekkvegen 18)

Dombås Skisenter offers skiing from October to May, although with artificial snow for much of the season.

4Sleeping & Eating

Bjørkhol CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 13 31; www.bjorkhol.no; Bjørkhol; tent/caravan sites 150/180kr, 2-/4-bed cabin with shared bathroom from 375/475kr, 2-bed cabins with bathroom 700-850kr)

One of Norway's best-value, friendliest campsites is 6km south of Dombås. The facilities are in excellent condition and a bus runs several times daily from Dombås. It is, however, situated fairly close to the main road.

Trolltun Gjestegård & Dombås VandrerhjemHOSTEL, GUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 09 60; www.trolltun.no; campsites 110kr, hostel dm/s/d 600/895/1150kr, cabins from 1095kr; pW)

This good-value place is 1.5km northeast of town, up the hill from the E6. The setting is lovely, the rooms are tidy and the meals are reasonably priced. You're ideally located for winter skiing and summer hiking with Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park on your doorstep. Part of the Fjordpass network.

Dombås HotellHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 10 01; www.dombas-hotell.no; Domaasgrendi 1; s/d 1195/1475kr; pW)

This middle-of-the-road hotel is about as plain and bland as they get, but it's decorated in a modern style with glass staircases, wood floors and neutral furnishings. Larger rooms have sofas and sitting areas. It's handy for the Dombås ski centre, but don't expect much character.

MoskusgrillenDINER$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 01 00; www.moskusgrillen.no; Kyrkjevegen 1; mains 119-189kr; h8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun)

The pick of the limited dining options in Dombås, the Musk Ox Grill turns out decent dishes such as elk burgers, roast trout, salt lamb and potato balls, as well as umpteen types of pizza. The decor is diner-style, and it's open at all hours, so you won't go hungry.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Lavprisekspressen buses pass through once a day en route between Oslo (580kr) and Trondheim (400kr).

Train

Dombås lies on the railway line between Oslo (449kr to 713kr, 4¼ hours, four daily) and Trondheim (349kr to 466kr, 2½ hours). It is also the starting point for the spectacular Rauma Railway (Raumabanen; www.nsb.no; 230kr), which runs from Romsdalen to Åndalsnes (1½ hours, four daily).

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park

Bleak and dramatic, the hauntingly beautiful Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park is a high, bitterly cold plateau of gently undulating mountains buried under a thick blanket of snow for much of the year. These mountains peak with Snøhetta (2286m), and the park provides a suitably Arctic-like habitat for Arctic foxes, reindeer, wolverines and, the park's flagship animal, musk oxen, which are easily seen during a summertime musk oxen safari.

The Knutshøene massif (1690m) section of the park, east of the E6, protects Europe's most diverse intact alpine ecosystem.

THE MUSK OX

Shaggy-haired, long-horned and weighing in at around half a tonne, musk oxen have been tramping the snowy wastes of the Arctic since the days of the woolly mammoth. Dovrefjell is one of the only places in Europe where you can see them in the wild – although they're not actually native, having been introduced here in the 20th century for their wool and meat. Around 250 of the animals now roam the park and, while generally docile, they can be bad-tempered, especially if you happen to come between a mother and a calf. The official advice is not to stray closer than 300m, and if one starts snorting and pawing the ground, then it's time to retreat: slowly move sideways and back, as musk oxen have poor eyesight and if you move directly backwards they cannot always tell that you're retreating.

The safest option is to view them on a musk ox safari: contact Oppdal Safari or Moskusopplevelse, based at Furuhaugli Touristhytter.

1Sights

oSnøhetta ViewpointVIEWPOINT

(Norwegian Wild Reindeer Centre Pavilion; GOOGLE MAP )

This arresting building of rippled timber and mirrored glass was commissioned by the Wild Reindeer Foundation as an educational centre and observation point. It offers astounding views over the valley to Mt Snøhetta. It's a gentle 1.5km walk along a gravel trail from the car park; the turn-off is signed off the E6 by Hjerkinn.

Fokstumyra MarshesNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP )

These wild marshes are home to an astonishing array of bird life. Approximately 87 species nest in the area and 162 species in total have been observed. Among the species found here are the red-breasted merganser, long-tailed duck, black-throated diver, whimbrel, wood sandpiper and short-eared owl.

SnøhettaNATURAL FEATURE

( GOOGLE MAP )

The park's highest mountain is Snøhetta (2286m) and it was an important trading pass in previous centuries. The mountain also features in many Norwegian myths and legends. Most people view it from a distance, but it can be climbed from Snøheim (allow six hours), although it's for experienced walkers only, with equipment suitable for extreme weather.

2Activities

Most non-Norwegians visit the park as part of a day-long musk ox safari or to hike: there are lots of walking trails, many of which are clearly signed. Serious hikers will fare best with the Statens Kartverk map Dovrefjell (1:100,000). However, it doesn't include the Knutshøene section; for that, you need Statens Kartverk's Einunna 1519-I and Folldal 1519-II topographic sheets.

MoskusopplevelseWILDLIFE WATCHING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.moskusopplevelse.no; adult/child 395/195kr; hMay-Sep)

Based at Furuhaugli Touristhytter, this guiding company offers daily wildlife spotting trips to see musk oxen (adult/child 395/195kr) and moose (295/145kr). From May to September, musk ox safaris run daily, while moose safaris run every evening, meaning it's possible to do both in one day. Off season, private tours can also be arranged.

4Sleeping

Hjerkinnhus VanderhjemHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %464 20 102; www.hjerkinnhus.no; N-2661 Hjerkinn; r 600-750kr; pW)

This simple mountain hostel is mainly geared towards walkers, especially long-distance trampers following St Olav's Way, which heads pretty much past the front door. Wood-clad outside, it offers basic dorms, mostly quads with shared bathrooms and kitchen facilities. The mountain views are the main selling point. Breakfast is extra at 110kr.

Furuhaugli TouristhytterLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 00 00; www.furuhaugli.no; Furu­haug­lie 80; 2-/3-bed cabin 1200/1300kr, 2-/4-bed cabin with shared bathroom 450/650kr)

Roughly halfway between Dombås and Hjerkinn, this lodge complex makes a good Dovrefjell base. There are 28 wood-clad cabins spread out across the site, sleeping from two to eight; cheaper cabins share a toilet block, while the more expensive ones have private en suites. There's also space for camping and a simple on-site restaurant.

oKongsvold FjeldstueLODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %72 40 43 40; www.kongsvold.no; Kongsvold; s/d 1275/1850kr, with shared bathroom 1075/1450kr; pW)

This charming and historic place of intriguing early-18th-century timber buildings is 13km north of Hjerkinn on the E6. Every room is different although all are warm and cosy. Locals drive kilometres to come and enjoy the excellent evening meals (set menus 495kr to 995kr) and every other person driving past seems to stop for coffee and waffles in the cafe.

8Getting There & Away

Trains run from Dombås to Hjerkinn (103kr, 30 minutes), from where you'll need your own transport.

There's no public transport inside the park.

Otta

Pop 1677

Sited at the confluence of two rushing rivers, the Otta and Lågen, the town of Otta is mainly known for its white-water rafting potential. There are lots of companies, mostly based around Sjoa, that lead rafting expeditions catering for all abilities. There's not much to the town itself, but it's a useful gateway to nearby Rondane National Park.

4Sleeping & Eating

Otta CampingCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %473 67 501; www.ottacamping.no; Ottadalen; tent & car 170kr, caravan sites for 2 people 170kr, plus electricity 40kr, 4-bed cabins 350-550kr; hMay–mid-Oct; W)

The riverside Otta Camping is convenient and popular; cross the Otta bridge from the centre, turn right and continue about 1km upstream.

Thon Hotel OttaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 08 00; www.thonhotels.no/otta; Ola Dahls gate 7; d 1195kr; pW)

It's big, it's modern and it's dreadfully bland, but this chain hotel in the centre of Otta is pretty much as good as it gets in terms of hotels. The decor's studiously inoffensive – most rooms have wood floors and beige furnishings – and the restaurant serves decent meals, although for some reason it's only open from Monday to Thursday.

Pillarguri KaféCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 23 01 04; www.pillarguricafe.no; Storgata 7A; mains 169-249kr; h11am-7pm Mon-Thu, 11am-9pm Fri & Sat, 2-6pm Sun)

This downtown diner in the middle of Otta is the pick of the places to eat here, and it turns out a decent menu of elk burgers, salads, grilled chicken, pizzas and the like, along with Norwegian dishes like meatballs and reindeer stew. The small outdoor terrace is great on a sunny afternoon.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 24 14 44; www.nasjonalparkriket.no/en/otta-tourist-information-centre; Ola Dahls gate 1; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Otta's small tourist office is located inside the train station, and is stocked with information on activities in the national park region.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Nor-Way's NW431 Fjordexpressen bus stops once daily in Otta and Sjoa en route to/from Trondheim (456kr, 4¾ hours) and Bergen (699kr, 9¼ hours).

Train

Trains stop in Otta on the way from Oslo (633kr, 3½ hours, five daily) to Trondheim (557kr, three hours). To get to Bergen, change trains in Oslo.

WORTH A TRIP

SJØA & WHITE-WATER RAFTING

Tucked away on the banks of the rushing Sjøa River, the small town of Sjøa is one of Norway's premier locations for white-water rafting. There's a trip to suit everyone here – from easy introductory runs to heart-in-the-mouth roller coasters through the rapids. There are numerous operators, all offering similar packages. Some also have campsites and hostels on site. Recommended operators include the following:

Sjøa Rafting ( GOOGLE MAP ; %900 71 000; www.sjoarafting.com; Nedre Heidal; half-day 775-825kr, full-day 1050-1150kr)

Sjøa Kajakksenter ( GOOGLE MAP ; %900 66 222; www.kajakksenteret.no; Nedre Heidal; day trip 140kr)

Go Rafting ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 23 50 00; www.gorafting.no; half/full day 770/1040kr)

Rondane National Park

Henrik Ibsen described the landscapes that now make up the 963-sq-km Rondane National Park (www.nasjonalparkriket.no) as 'palace piled upon palace'. It was created in 1962 as Norway's first national park to protect the fabulous Rondane massif, regarded by many as the finest alpine hiking country in Norway. Ancient reindeer-trapping sites and burial mounds suggest that the area has been inhabited for thousands of years. Much of the park's glaciated and lichen-coated landscape lies above 1400m, and 10 rough and stony peaks rise to over 2000m, including Rondslottet (2178m), the highest, and Storronden (2138m). Rondane's range of wildlife includes 28 mammal species and 124 bird species, and the park is now one of the last refuges of the wild reindeer.

.

Rondane National Park

1Sights

1Dovre National ParkA1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Bicycle HireB4

Rondvassbu HikesB4

4Sleeping

3Otta CampingA4

4Rondane HøyfjellshotellB4

5RondetunetD3

6Rondvassbu DNTB4

7Smuksjøseter FjellstueA3

8Thon Hotel OttaA4

5Eating

9Pillarguri KaféA4

2Activities

The hiking season runs only in July and August. The most accessible route into the park is from the Spranghaugen car park, about 13km uphill along a good road from Otta and via the toll road (20kr). From there, it's a straightforward 6.2km (1½-hour) hike to Rondvassbu, where there's a popular, staffed DNT hut. From Rondvassbu, it's a five-hour return climb to the summit of Storronden. Alternatively, head for the spectacular view from the more difficult summit of Vinjeronden (2044m), then tackle the narrow ridge leading to the neighbouring peak, Rondslottet (about six hours return from Rondvassbu).

The best maps to use are Statens Kartverk Rondane (1:100,000; 99kr) and Rondane Sør (1:50,000).

oRondvassbu HikesHIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Oslo DNT office 22 82 28 00; www.rondvassbu.com)

This mountain hut makes a fantastic hiking base. It offers guided hiking trips three times a week to various local peaks, including Trolltinden (2018m), Storronden (2138m) and the highest peak in the Rondane range, Rondslottet (2178m).

Bicycle HireCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Spranghaugen car park; adult/child bike per day 100/50kr)

An automatic bicycle rental place is located inside the Spranghaugen car park. Bikes can be used only on the trail to Rondvassbu.

4Sleeping

Rondvassbu DNTHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Oslo DNT office 22 82 28 00; https://rondvassbu.dnt.no; dm 250-410kr, camping 90kr; hMar-Easter & Jul-Sep)

Built in 1903, this fine old mountain hostel run by the DNT is located 6km up a track from the Spranghaugen car park, at the southern end of Rondevatnet Lake. There are 128 beds, spread out between two-bed and four-bed rooms and a big dormitory. Duvets and pillows are supplied, but you'll need your own liner or sleeping bag.

oRondane HøyfjellshotellLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 20 90 90; www.rondane.no; Mysusæter; r 795-1095kr; pW)

A comfortable upmarket option with good spa facilities, including pedicures for worn-out hikers' feet, and pine-tinged rooms that are unusually good value. The restaurant serves hearty Norwegian and international fare (set dinner menu 475kr). Needless to say, the views are a knockout. It's on the road from Otta towards the Spranghaugen car park.

Smuksjøseter FjellstueFARMSTAY$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 23 37 19; www.smuksjoseter.no; Høvringen; s/d 680/1320kr; pW)

Simple rooms and apartments on a traditional seter in Høvringen, run by the Skaugen family who've been here since the 1940s. The rooms are plainly furnished but quite modern – and there are larger apartments, which are ideal for families. Breakfast and dinner are full of traditional mountain flavours.

RondetunetHOSTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %904 15 149; www.rondetunet.dk; cabins 430-1580kr, camping 125kr; p)

This mountain centre offers basic huts and fabulous camping on the southeastern edge of Rondane National Park. They also run mountain skills courses and lead guided hikes. The centre is just off Rv27, about halfway between Folldal and Ringebu.

8Information

The tourist office in Otta is the best place for information on the park.

8Getting There & Away

Two roads flank either side of Rondane National Park: the main E6 to the west and the more scenic Rv27 to the east; the latter has been designated as a National Tourist Route.

Most people access the park from the west along the minor road to Mysusæter; look out for the turn-off a few kilometres south of Otta. Once you reach Mysusæter, there's a toll gate (20kr) and it's another 4km to the Spranghaugen car park.

There's another road that leads from the E6 into the north side of the park via Høvringen.

In summer, the 538 bus runs twice daily between Otta and Mysusæter, from where it's a further 4km to the Spranghaugen car park.

Ringebu

Pop 4540

Ringebu is the southernmost small community of Gudbrandsdalen, the narrow river valley that stretches for 200km between Lake Mjøsa and Dombås. It's worth a detour for its lovely stave church.

1Sights

Ringebu Stave ChurchCHURCH

(Ringebu Stavkyrkje; GOOGLE MAP ; www.stavechurch.no; adult/child 60/40kr, joint ticket with Samlingene 90/50kr; h9am-5pm Jun-Aug)

A church has existed on this site since the arrival of Christianity in the 11th century. The current version, which remains the local parish church, dates from around 1220, but was restored in the 17th century when the distinctive red tower was attached. Inside, there's a statue of St Laurence dating from around 1250, as well as some crude runic inscriptions.

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 28 47 00; www.ringebu.com; h8am-6pm Mon-Thu, 8am-8pm Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, 5-8pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri rest of year) The small tourist office is inside the train station.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Lavprisekspressen buses travel once daily to Lillehammer (300kr, 55 minutes) and Oslo (460kr; 3½ hours), and to Trondheim (520kr; five hours) in the opposite direction.

Train

Trains go to Oslo (249kr to 428kr, 3¼ hours, four daily) and Trondheim (499kr to 653kr, 3¾ hours, four daily)

Western Central Norway

Lom

Pop 2410

If you were to set up a town as a travellers' gateway, you'd put it somewhere like Lom, in the heart of some of Norway's most spectacular mountain scenery. Rapids cascade through the village centre, houses in dark wood climb the steep hills, and roads out of town lead to Geiranger (74km) at the edge of Norway's famous fjords, via the staggering Sognefjellet Rd, which winds across the top of the Jotunheimen National Park. Aside from its location, Lom's main attraction is a lovely stave church.

1Sights

Lom StavkyrkjeCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lomstavechurch.no; adult/child 70/30kr; h9am-7pm mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-4pm May–mid-Jun & Sep)

This delightful Norman-style stave church, in the centre of town on a rise by the water, is one of Norway's finest. Still the functioning local church, it was constructed in 1170, extended in 1634 and given its current cruciform shape with the addition of two naves in 1663.

Norsk FjellmuseumMUSEUM

(Norwegian Mountain Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 16 00; www.norskfjellsenter.no; Brubakken 2; adult/child 12-16yr 80/50kr; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun mid-Aug–mid-Jun)

Acting as the visitor centre for Jotunheimen National Park, this worthwhile mountain museum contains mountaineering memorabilia and exhibits on natural history (the woolly mammoth is a highlight) and cultural and industrial activity in the Norwegian mountains. There's also a 10-minute mountain slide show and, upstairs, a scale model of the park.

Fossheim SteinsenterMUSEUM

(Stone & Mineral Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 14 60; www.fossheimsteinsenter.no; Bergomsvegen 30; h10am-6pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat May-Jun & Sep)F

The fascinating Fossheim Steinsenter combines an impressive selection of rare and beautiful rocks, minerals, fossils, gems and jewellery for sale, and a large museum of geological specimens from all over Norway and the world; don't miss the downstairs fossil exhibition. The knowledgeable owners of the centre are especially proud of the Norwegian national stone, thulite. It was discovered in 1820 and is now quarried in Lom; the reddish colour is derived from traces of manganese.

2Activities

The tourist office has details of hikes, glacier walks and ice-climbing in Jotunheimen National Park.

Lom & Skjåk AdventureADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %472 61 672; www.lsadventure.no; hMay-Oct)

Lom & Skjåk Adventure is a 10-minute drive northwest of Lom along the E15. It arranges white-water rafting, climbing, kayaking, caving, canyoning, hiking and river-boarding.

Hiking

Although most of the serious trekking takes place in neighbouring Jotunheimen National Park, there are several hiking trails closer to town. Many of these are passable much later into the winter than those in the high, snow-bound mountains; ask the tourist office for maps, directions and its terrific Walks in Lom pamphlet, which has a map and detailed route descriptions.

The three most popular hikes:

Lomseggen (1289m) Five-hour return hike past the century-old stone cottage called Smithbue, with some excellent views of Ottadalen, Bøverdalen and Norway's highest peak, Galdhøpiggen (2469m), en route.

Tronoberget Three-hour return hike up the mountain that lies west across the river from Lom, with excellent views of the peaks of Reinheimen National Park.

Soleggen & Læshø (1204m) Five-hour return hike above Lom with views of the Rondane, Dovrefjell, Reinheimen, Breheimen and Jotunheimen massifs.

White-Water Rafting

If Sjoa is too much of a scene, white-water rafting is possible from Skjåk, 18km upstream from Lom.

4Sleeping

Nordal TuristsenterHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 93 00; www.nordalturistsenter.no; r 990-1490kr, huts 450-1170kr, campsites 250kr; hApr–mid-Dec; W)

This busy accommodation complex right in the middle of town has something to cover most needs: a pleasant, motel-style main block; camping huts in the grounds; and pitches for tents and campervans. For dinner there's a no-frills pub and a casual cafeteria-style restaurant.

Fossheim TuristhotellHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 95 00; www.fossheimhotel.no; Bergomsvegen 32; hotel s 1195kr, d 1440-1795kr; pW)

This historic family hotel at the eastern end of town has all-wood rooms in the main hotel building (we especially like rooms 401 and 402 for the balconies and views). There are also luxurious log cabins with modern interiors and simpler, cheaper rooms (some with good views) in the adjacent annexe; although annexe rooms have dreadful sound insulation.

WORTH A TRIP

FARMS OF A MASTER CHEF

oBrimi-FjellstuguLODGE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 23 98 12; www.brimiland.no/brimi-fjellstugu; r per person from 600kr)S

This renowned mountain lodge, owned by chef Arne Brimi, specialises in multiday mountain stays combining outdoor activities with sumptuous dinners devised by the man himself. The original building dates from 1949, and offers rustic charm blended with contemporary style, while the restaurant offers three different three-course menus (450kr to 600kr). A real treat on all fronts.

Brimi sæterFARMSTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %911 37 558; www.brimi-seter.no; dm per night 800kr; hJun-Sep; pW)

Arne Brimi's reinvention of a summer mountain farm is a pleasure. It offers simple accommodation spread across old farm buildings, including a hay-loft, barn and a couple of tepee-style lavvu in the yard. There are private rooms, as well as dorm-style 'brisk' accommodation, with bunks built in alongside one wall. Nightly meals are, unsurprisingly, rustic and delicious.

5Eating

oLom BakeryBAKERY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 18 60; www.bakerietilom.no; Sognefjellsvegen 7; loaves from 35kr, sandwiches/pizzas 66/170kr; h9am-5pm)

Lom's other culinary star is master baker Morten Schakenda, who makes all his breads using only natural ingredients and wood-fired ovens. You can buy freshly baked baguettes, cinnamon twists and rustic loaves by the score, of course, but there are also delicious pastries and sandwiches, and the crispiest of pizzas too. Queues often stretch out the door.

In fact, we're willing to go out on a limb and say this might just be Norway's best bakery.

oBrimi BueCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %468 54 262; www.brimiland.no/brimibue; Fossheim Turisthotell; mains around 180kr; h9am-9pm)

This flashy establishment is the new home base for the town's top chef, Arne Brimi, and it's where everyone wants to eat when they pass through town. It's screamingly Scandi (all big glass windows, plain wood and open plan), the perfect setting for the cafe's speciality: gourmet platters of ham, cheese and fish, plus meats flame-grilled to perfection.

Fossheim Turisthotell RestaurantNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 95 00; www.fossheimhotel.no; Fossheim Turisthotell; mains 295kr, 2/3 courses 395/465kr; h1-3.30pm & 7-10pm)

Specialities like wild trout, reindeer, elk and ptarmigan feature on the menu at this hotel restaurant, and while it constitutes a memorable meal for Norway, it wouldn't really stand out anywhere in southern Europe. Still, it'll fill you up – you can choose just a main dish or go for the full, belly-busting eight courses.

8Information

The main source of information is the Norsk Fjellmuseum, but there's also a small tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 29 90; www.visitjotunheimen.com; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun Jul–mid-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat mid-Aug–early Sep; W) just inside the entrance of the Co-op supermarket.

8Getting There & Away

Two daily express buses run from Oslo to Lom (477kr, 6¼ hours) and several buses a day run to/from Otta (136kr, 1½ hours, four to six daily).

The summer-only Valdresekspressen bus connects Lom with several points in Jotunheimen National Park, including the popular trailhead of Gjendesheim (126kr, 80 minutes).

Jotunheimen National Park

This is it. This is the big one. The high peaks and glaciers of the 1151-sq-km Jotunheimen National Park (www.jotunheimen.com; 17km SW of Lom) whose name means the 'Home of the Giants', make for Norway's best-loved, busiest and, arguably, most spectacular wilderness destination. Seemingly hundreds of hiking routes lead through ravine-like valleys past deep lakes, plunging waterfalls and 60 glaciers to the tops of all the peaks in Norway over 2300m; these include Galdhøpiggen (the highest peak in northern Europe at 2469m), Glittertind (2452m) and Store Skagastølstind (2403m). By one count, there are more than 275 summits above 2000m inside the park.

Jotunheimen National Park

1Top Sights

1Mímisbrunnr Klimapark 2469C1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2BesseggenD2

3Galdhøpiggen Summer Ski CentreC1

4HurrunganeA2

5Øvre ÅrdalB3

6SognefjelletC1

7TindevegenA2

4Sleeping

8BessheimD2

9Bøverdalen VandrerhjemC1

10Elvesæter HotellC1

11Jotunheimen FjellstueB1

12JuvasshyttaC1

13Krossbu TuriststasjonB2

14Leirvassbu LodgeC2

15Memurubu LodgeD2

16Røisheim HotelC1

17Skjolden HotelA2

18Skjolden VandrerhjemA2

19StorhaugenC1

20Turtagrø HotelA2

Vassbakken Kro & CampingA2

1Sights

oMímisbrunnr Klimapark 2469TUNNEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 16 00; www.mimisbrunnr.no; adult/child 345/175kr; hguided tours 10.30am & 2pm late Jun-late Aug, Sat & Sun late Aug–mid-Sep)

If you want to learn all about the wonders of ice, this impressive experience takes you closer than you ever thought possible. Guided tours take you 60m under the ice through a specially created ice tunnel that reveals the ice's structure and colours, and documents more than six millennia of time. It's a surprisingly moving experience, with the obvious topic of climate change looming constantly in the background.

2Activities

Jotunheimen's hiking possibilities are practically endless and all are spectacular. The best maps are Statens Kartverk's Jotunheimen Aust and Jotunheimen Vest (1:50,000).

The tourist office and the Norsk Fjellmuseum in Lom can offer advice, route descriptions and guided hikes through the park.

oSognefjelletSCENIC DRIVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Town councillors of the world: You may have built a lot of roads in your time, and many of them are probably very useful, but chances are none of them are as spectacular as this one. Snaking through Jotunheimen National Park (and providing access to most of the trailheads), the stunningly scenic Sognefjellet Rd (Rv55) connects Lustrafjorden with Lom, and is billed as 'the road over the roof of Norway'. With little doubt, it's one of Norway's most beautiful drives.

Constructed in 1939 by unemployed youths, the road rises to a height of 1434m, making it the highest mountain road in northern Europe. It is one of Norway's 18 National Tourist Routes.

Access from the southwest is via multiple hairpin bends climbing up beyond the treeline to Turtagrø, with a stirring view of the Skagastølstindane mountains on your right. If you're coming from Lom, the ascent is more gradual, following beautiful Bøverdalen, the valley of the Bøvra River, with its lakes, glacial rivers, grass-roofed huts and patches of pine forest. The road summit on Sognefjell offers superb views.

The snow sometimes doesn't melt until early July, although the road is usually open from May to September. The road can get very narrow and snow is often piled metres high on either side. Ample camping and other accommodation options line the road.

Although this road is mainly traversed by motorised transport, the Sognefjellet Rd has legendary status among cyclists and frequently appears on lists of the world's most spectacular cycle routes. It's a serious undertaking that requires high levels of fitness and perfect brakes.

From mid-June to late August, a daily bus runs between Lom and Sogndal (290kr, 3½ hours) via Sognefjellet Rd.

oBesseggenHIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

No discussion of hiking in Jotunheimen would be complete without mention of Besseggen, the most popular hike in Norway. Indeed, some travellers find it too popular, with at least 30,000 hikers walking it in the three months a year that it's passable. The day hike between Memurubu Lodge and Gjendesheim takes about six hours and climbs to a high point of 1743m. Park at Gjendesheim, hop on the M/S Gjende ferry and cross the lake to begin the hike.

Most people do it in this direction but there's nothing to stop you doing it in reverse, except that if you're planning on returning to the trek start point, and your car, then you need to time your walk well in order to get the last ferry back (4.30pm). Note that at busy times (which is most of the July to August period), long queues can form for the ferry and the boats operate a near continuous service.

From Memurubu, follow the signs up the steep hill. After much huffing and puffing you emerge on a flatter plateau. The trail is very obvious and it would be hard to get lost. The route winds past Bjørnbøltjørn, a small glacial lake, and offers amazing views down to the much larger, turquoise lake Gjende, which gains its extraordinary colour thanks to the 20,000 tonnes of glacial silt dumped into it each year by the Memuru river. After an undulating couple of hours, you reach the steepest part of the climb up onto the Besseggen Ridge proper. From afar this looks very narrow and precarious, but, although you do have to do quite a lot of scrambling and have a head for heights, it's actually not as hard, or narrow, as it seems from a distance. Once up onto the ridge, the route climbs gently through scree slopes to the summit of the Veslefjellet plateau before a fairly tame walk back down to Gjendesheim.

The walk is accessible to anyone of reasonable fitness. We have seen lots of families with small children doing it, although you will have to carry them up parts of it and the climb up the Besseggen Ridge becomes somewhat trickier with a young child clinging to you.

In the words of Henrik Ibsen, Besseggen 'cuts along with an edge like a scythe for miles and miles…And scars and glaciers sheer down the precipice to the glassy lakes, 1600ft below on either side.' Stirring stuff, and still true as ever.

TindevegenSCENIC DRIVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tindevegen.no; per car 80kr; hMay-Nov)

Sometimes known as the shortcut through Jotunheimen, this is yet another of Norway's most epic roads. Running from Turtagrø to Ovre Årdal and beyond all the way to Sognefjorden, it's a 32km route that offers a cinematic view of several of Norway's highest mountains, most of which stay snow capped year-round – among them Fanaråken (2069m), Skagastølstindane (2405m) and Austabotntindane (2203m). Though it's not one of Norway's official Tourist Routes, it's an absolute stunner nonetheless. Don't miss it.

The road is usually open from May to November, although this is dependent on the snows.

Randsverk to FagernesSCENIC DRIVE

Between Randsverk and Fagernes, the Rv51 climbs through the hilly and forested Sjodalen country onto a vast upland with far-ranging views of peaks and glaciers; it's used by hikers heading for Jotunheimen's eastern reaches. En route it passes the DNT hut at Gjendesheim, the launching point for the popular day hike along the Besseggen ridge.

JotunheimvegenSCENIC DRIVE

(www.jotunheimvegen.no; per car 100kr; hmid-Jun–Oct)

Branching off the Rv51 at Bygdin, the 45km-long Jotunheimvegen to Skåbu is quiet and picturesque. It's usually open from mid-June until October, depending on the weather. Cars pay a 100kr toll; motorcycles travel for free. There's no public transport along the route but there are campsites at Beitostølen and Skåbu. The route also links up with Peer Gynt Vegen.

Øvre ÅrdalHIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

From the town of Øvre Årdal, head 12km northeast up the Utladalen valley to the farm Vetti, from where hiking tracks lead to Vettisfossen, Norway's highest free-falling waterfall (275m), and to the unstaffed hut at Skølsmaradalen. This is an alternative access route, via upper Utladalen, to longer hikes in Jotunheimen.

HurrunganeHIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The fabulous Hurrungane massif rises darkly above the westernmost end of the park. Although some of these prominent peaks are accessible to experienced mountaineers and, in some cases, skilled scramblers, most hikers head eastwards from Turtagrø Hotel. From the hotel, a four-hour hike will take you to Norway's highest DNT hut, Fannaråki, on the summit of Fannaråken (2068m).

Galdhøpiggen Summer Ski CentreSKIING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 17 50; www.gpss.no; day lift pass adult/child 405/325kr)

This ski centre, at 1850m on the icy heights of Norway's highest mountain, is a stunning spot for summer skiing. From Galdesand on the Rv55, follow the Galdhøpiggen road (100kr toll) to its end at 1841m. The main season runs from June to mid-November. Apart from skiing opportunities, this road takes you to the highest point reachable by road in Norway.

It's also the starting point up Galdhøpiggen, a fairly tough, eight-hour day hike (1470m of ascent) from Spiterstulen, where the toll road begins. Although the trail is well marked, you'll need a map and compass.

4Sleeping

DNT maintains staffed huts along most of the routes and there's also a choice of private lodges along the main roads. The majority of accommodation is to be found along the Sognefjellet Rd. On the Rv51, options are more limited to campsites, although there are some lodges in the vicinity of Gjendesheim, which are handy for an early start on the Besseggen ridge. Most open from May to September.

JuvasshyttaLODGE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 15 50; www.juvasshytta.no; dm per adult/child 250/200kr)

With a name that sounds like it came from Star Wars, and a location above 1800m, Juvasshytta is a fine base. It sits in the shadow of Galdhøpiggen, Norway's highest peak, and staff can arrange guided walks, glacier hikes and climbs to the summit. The lodge-style accommodation ranges from barn-basic to quite comfortable.

Krossbu TuriststasjonLODGE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 29 22; www.krossbu.no; dm from 410kr, s 510kr, d from 610kr; pW)

With a total of 85 beds divided between a main lodge and an annexe, this venerable overnighter offers timber-panelled rooms that, while rustic, feel authentically mountain-themed. It's mainly geared towards walkers: various routes pass by and the hotel can arrange guided walks on Smørstabbreen glacier. Breakfast is 125kr and a three-course meal is 345kr; half-board is good value.

Gjendesheim LodgeHUT$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 23 89 10; www.gjendesheim.no; Gjendesheim; dm adult/child 210/105kr, r 1-3 beds 350/175kr, 4-6 beds 300/150kr; W)

At the trailhead to the Besseggen trek, on the eastern side of the park, this highly organised place has good-quality accommodation and meals. It's very popular so book ahead.

BessheimLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 23 89 13; www.bessheim.no; r per person 585kr, cabins 460-1420kr, camping 220-250kr; pW)

This super-slick and organised mountain lodge, just 3km east of Gjendesheim, is the best place to stay in the vicinity of the Besseggen ridge. The rustic rooms are matched by an equally down-home restaurant; three-course set dinners cost 370kr. It's extremely popular, so summer bookings are essential.

StorhaugenHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %472 92 720; www.storhaugengard.no; Bøverdalen; cabins 775-3300kr; pW)

At their traditional farm, the Slettede family offers an array of different accommodation options in modern, fully equipped cabins and apartments with views of both the Jotunheimen heights and Bøverdalen. Children will love the farm animals. It's all great value, but they don't provide meals so you'll need to come prepared.

Leirvassbu LodgeLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 12 10; www.ton.no/en/leirvassbu-mountain-lodge; s/d/tr 755/1190/1725kr; pW)

Run by the same family as the Elvesæter Hotel, this typically Norwegian mountain lodge sits at an altitude of 1400m, hunkered down beside Lake Leirvatnet. It's predominantly a walking and skiing base, and its 100-odd rooms get full up in the height of the season. You can save some krone by opting for a shared bathroom.

Fannaråki HutHUT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ut.no; dm DNT nonmembers 970-1130kr)

From the Turtagrø Hotel, a four-hour hike will take you to Norway's highest DNT hut, Fannaråki, on the summit of Fannaråken (2068m). While the hut itself is your typical DNT deal (ie clean and basic), the views are some of the best from accommodation anywhere in Norway.

Stolsmaradalen HutHUT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22 82 28 00; www.ut.no/hytte/3.2201; dm DNT nonmembers 970-1130kr)

Hikers venturing to Hurrungane and the waterfalls at Stølsmaradalsfossen and Vettisfossen often make use of this small, basic DNT hut. It's about as bare bones as it gets, with simple bunk mattresses and bits of kitchenware for cooking. There's no power here, although firewood is usually on hand. Otherwise, bring everything you need including sleeping bags.

Skogadalsbøen HutHUT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %975 69 094, mobile 979 85 828; www.ut.no/hytte/3.2004; dm DNT nonmembers 970-1130kr)

The eighth cabin to be built by the DNT, way back in 1888, this mountain hostel has heritage in spades. Accommodation is very simple, with 87 beds in doubles, quads and a couple of big dorms. It's unstaffed and mainly used by hikers exploring the area around Fannaråken.

Gjendebu HutHUT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %61 23 89 44; www.gjendebu.com; dm DNT nonmembers 970-1130kr; hJun-Sep)

The oldest hut owned by the DNT, built in 1871, this 119-bed hostel sits at an altitude of 995m on the shores of Gjende Lake. It's an ideal hiking base, with trails to Gjendetunga, Bukkelægeret and Svartdalspiggen all on the doorstep.

Olavsbu HutHUT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22 82 28 00; www.ut.no/hytte/3.1982; dm DNT nonmembers 970-1130kr)

This 52-bed hut sits at the intersection of two trails: the four-hour hike from Leirvassbu and the five-hour trail between Gjendebu and Fondsbu. It's at an elevation of around 1440m; there's no permanent staff, so you'll be cooking for yourself.

Memurubu LodgeLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %460 16 100, 61 23 89 99; www.ut.no/hytte/3.2002; dm DNT nonmembers 970-1130kr)

This remote DNT hut is used by hikers on the Besseggen Ridge. There are around 150 beds spread across several dorms, plus space for campers.

Jotunheimen FjellstueLODGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 29 18; www.jotunheimen-fjellstue.no; s/d/tr from 996/1355/1764kr)

From the outside, this modern mountain lodge is hugely outdone by its breathtaking surrounds, but inside are light and airy rooms that are better than many in the area. There's a busy in-house restaurant and cafe.

Bøverdalen VandrerhjemHOSTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 20 64; www.hihostels.no; Bøverdalen; s/d 600/960kr; pW)

This riverside hostel has a small cafe, tidy rooms, good cabins and delightful surrounds to enjoy once the day-trippers have returned home. It's popular so be sure to book ahead in summer.

oElvesæter HotellHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 99 00; www.ton.no/en/elveseter-culture-and-art-hotel; Bøverdalen; s/d from 1100/1550kr; pW)S

This extraordinary old hostelry looks for all the world like something out of Tolkien's notebook. Accessed through wooden gates, the hotel's timber buildings are home to a higgledy-piggledy collection of storybook-style rooms, complete with painted murals, sleigh beds, antiques and artworks. The plumbing is creaky, the soundproofing is non-existent and it gets busy – but it sure scores high on heritage.

It's run by the sixth generation of the Elvesæter family and is sited next to the Sagasøyla, a 32m-high carved wooden pillar tracing Norwegian history from unification in 872 to the 1814 constitution. Traditional three-course dinners are 325kr.

oTurtagrø HotelLODGE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %57 68 08 00; www.turtagro.no; Fortun; s/d/f 1610/2200/3200kr, campsite per person 135kr; pW)

An intriguing meeting of mountain heritage old and new. This alpine hotel has two buildings: the original Swiss chalet dating from 1888 and the strikingly modern main lodge, a zig-zag structure built in 2002. Rooms reflect their era: modern ones are clean and sleek in pine and glass, older ones have a more trad feel. Excellent meals are served nightly.

Røisheim HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %61 21 20 31; www.roisheim.no; Bøverdalen; d from 1550kr; pW)S

This charming place combines architecturally stunning buildings that date back to 1858 with modern comforts, although there are no TVs. Some rooms have wonderful baths made out of old barrels. Apart from the charming accommodation, the appeal lies in the meals, which are prepared by Ingrid Hov Lunde, one of the country's best-loved chefs.

8Information

For general information on the park, contact the Norsk Fjellmuseum or the small tourist office, both in Lom.

8Getting There & Away

Between June and September, the Valdresekspressen bus connects Lom with various areas in the park, including Gjendesheim (126kr, one hour 20 minutes).

Hardangervidda

The desolate and beautiful Hardangervidda plateau, part of the 3430-sq-km Hardangervidda National Park (Norway's largest), ranges across an otherworldly tundra landscape that's the southernmost refuge of the Arctic fox (the natural population of which has increased through reintroduction programs) and home to Norway's largest herd of wild reindeer. Long a trade and travel route connecting eastern and western Norway, it's now crossed by the main railway and road routes between Oslo and Bergen.

Reindeer numbers have dropped in recent years, from a high of 19,000 in 1998 to around 7000. This fall in numbers is, however, part of a program of resource management by the park's authorities, as a ban on hunting, until recently, meant that herd numbers became too large.

Apart from Finse and Geilo, Hardangervidda National Park is accessible from Rjukan and Eidfjord; there's an excellent national park centre at the latter.

2Activities

The 83km Rallarvegen bike route crosses the Hardangervidda at Finse on its way between Haugastøl and Flåm; the distance from Finse to Flåm is 56km. Finse 1222 rents bikes.

HIKING THE HARDANGERVIDDA

Trekking through the western Hardangervidda is possible only in July and August – for the rest of the time, snow and the possibility of sudden changes in weather conditions make setting out hazardous; new snow is a possibility at any time of year. Before exploring the park, visit the outstanding Hardangervidda Natursenter, which sells maps. This centre can offer advice on hiking routes and has a wonderful exhibition on the park. Hikers and skiers will find the Turkart series (149kr to 279kr), at a scale of 1:100,000, to be the maps of choice. You should also consult Hardangerviddanett Hytteringen (www.hardangerviddanett.no), which gives a run-down on mountain huts. The Bergen Turlag DNT office is another good source of information.

There are numerous trailheads, among them the waterfalls at Vøringfoss, Finse or Geilo. Some of our favourite routes:

Finse to Vøringfoss (two days) The steepest hiking country in Hardangervidda, skirting the Hardangerjøkulen glacier and overnighting in Rembesdalsseter; you could also make the four- to five-hour (one-way) detour to Kjeåsen Farm.

Vøringfoss to Kinsarvik via Harteigen (three days) To the picturesque mountain of Harteigen with its panoramic views of Hardangervidda, then down the monk's stairway to Kinsarvik.

Halne to Dyranut via Rauhelleren (two days) Trails lead south off the Rv7. There's a strong chance hikers will encounter reindeer herds.

Geilo

Pop 2363

At Geilo (pronounced Yei-lo), midway between Oslo and Bergen, you can practically step off the train onto a ski lift. In summer there's plenty of fine hiking in the area. A popular nearby destination is the expansive plateau-like mountain called Hallingskarvet, frosted with several small glaciers. Apart from hiking across the Hardangervidda, it's possible to go glacier trekking on Hardangerjøkulen (1862m), horse riding, white-water rafting, riverboarding and go on elk safaris. For more information on these and other activities, contact the tourist office.

4Sleeping & Eating

Øen Turistsenter & Geilo VandrerhjemHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %32 08 70 60; www.oenturist.no; Lienvegen 137; dm 350kr, huts 500-950kr; pW)

A kilometre or so east of the town centre along the Rv7, this hostel has tidy cabins and dorms but little atmosphere. It's quite a trek from the station – 2.5km or so – and the roadside location isn't ideal either.

Ro HotellHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %32 09 08 99; www.rohotel.no; Geilovegen 55; s/d 790/1000kr; W)

At first glance this cheap place next door to the train station doesn't look promising, but its large and spotless rooms, good sound insulation, comfy chairs and desk, helpful staff and fast wi-fi that reaches all the rooms add up to as good value as Norway gets.

oDr Holms HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %32 09 57 00; www.drholms.no; Timrehaugvegen 2; s/d from 995/1490kr; pWs)

The century-old Dr Holms has been providing a place for relaxation and recuperation amid the mountain scenery for over 100 years, and it has an air of undeniable grandeur. It's split in two halves: the historic old section, with 'English-style' rooms full of antiques and burnished furniture, and the modern annexe with more contemporary, clean-lined rooms.

There's also a traditional restaurant and, rather inexplicably, Norway's highest bowling alley.

oHalling-StueneNORWEGIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %32 09 12 50; www.hallingstuene.no; Geilovegen 56; mains 320-415kr; h1-10pm Mon-Fri & Sun, to 11pm Sat)

This crimson-clad restaurant is just about as traditional as restaurants get in Norway, but it's been going strong for 25 years and seems as popular as ever. It's run by celeb chef Frode Aga, who cooks up rich, classic dishes such as skårapølse (lamb sausage in butter sauce), grilled grouse breast, herb-baked trout and reindeer fillet with game sauce.

The food will definitely be too rich for some palates, but there are few better places to sample the true taste of old Norway. Note that some dishes contain minke whale.

8Information

Geilo Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %32 09 59 00; www.geilo.no; Vesleslåttveien 13; h9am-6pm)

8Getting There & Away

Most visitors arrive on the train between Oslo (249kr to 618kr, 3½ hours, five daily) and Bergen (249kr to 517kr, three hours).

Finse

Finse, which lies at 1222m near the Hardangerjøkulen icecap, is accessible only by train, bike or foot, and is the place in central Norway for a wild, Arctic-like wilderness experience. Its bleak and remote lakeside setting is addictive, whether seen sparkling under blue skies with a fresh coat of snow or on a cold, grey day when the winds lash across the tundra and glaciers.

You only need walk a few minutes away from the tiny train station to find total silence, but if you prefer your rest time to be more adrenaline-filled, then the countryside surrounding Finse offers nordic skiing in winter and hiking in summer, not to mention what could be Norway's steepest mountain-bike ride.

2Activities

Finse is the starting point for some exceptional treks, including the popular four-hour trek to the Blåisen glacier tip of Hardangerjøkulen. It's a stunning walk, but no matter how tempting it looks, do not ever attempt to walk on the glacier unless on a guided glacier walk led by an expert. Adding interest to your hike is the fact that scenes set on the planet Hof in The Empire Strikes Back were filmed around the glacier.

It's also possible to walk around the glacier and down to Vøringfoss. The wonderful three- or four-day Finse–Aurland trek follows Aurlandsdalen down to Aurlandsfjorden and has a series of DNT and private mountain huts a day's walk apart.

Jøklagutane Glacier WalksWALKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %993 31 222; www.glaciertoursnorway.com; per person 650kr)

Well-run, highly exhilarating glacier walks lasting roughly seven hours (with around two hours spent actually on the glacier) take you onto the edge of the ice-sheet to peer down into crevices and possibly clamber into an ice-cave, as well as climb right up onto the vast domed icecap summit. Tours leave from the train station at 11am.

Sykkel 1222CYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %919 10 140; www.finse1222.no/en/rallarvegen-the-navvy-road; per day from 695kr)

The busy bike-rental office of the Finse 1222 hotel can furnish you with a machine with which to tackle the Rallarvegen trail – complete with shock absorbers to cope with the rocky, rough trail. Booking is essential in summer and bikes can be returned at Myrdal or Flåm to save you having to come all the way back (perish the thought).

4Sleeping

FinsehyttaLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 52 67 32; www.finsehytta.dnt.no; dm 250-410kr; hmid-Mar–late Sep; W)

Hikers, bikers and backpackers alike all congregate on this staffed DNT hut, just a short walk from the station, on a little peninsula jutting out into the lake. Dorms sleep from three to six people (the smaller ones are perfect for families) and many have super lake views. Nightly meals (395kr) and breakfast (170kr) are better value half-board.

oFinse 1222LODGE$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 52 71 00; www.finse1222.no; s/d/f from 1300/1400/1550kr; W)

This high-altitude hotel is pretty much the only option this high on the Hardangervidda – and luckily, it's lovely. There's a strong mountain vibe here, and the modern, tidy, well-insulated rooms have outrageous views over the lake and glacier. Parts of the lodge are actually built out of old trains.

8Getting There & Away

Five daily trains run between Oslo (706kr, 4½ hours) and Bergen (from 413kr, 2½ hours) via Finse.