Bergen & the Southwestern Fjords

Why Go?

If we could visit only one region of Norway and hope to grasp the essence of the country's appeal, this would be our choice.

Cool, cultured Bergen is one of the world's most beautiful cities, with its streets of whitewashed timber cottages climbing steep hillsides from busy Vågen Harbour. It's a destination in itself, but also the ideal starting point for a journey into splendid Hardangerfjord, with its gorgeous fjord-side villages, or the vast Sognefjorden network. En route to the latter, Voss is Norway's destination of choice for thrill-seekers.

Down south, boom-town Stavanger is a diverting staging post for Lysefjord, home to two of Norway's most recognisable images, impossibly high above the ice-blue waters of the fjord: Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) and Kjeragbolten.

When to Go

Jun Bergen International Festival and Voss' Veko for extreme sports and music.
May Hardangerfjord's fruit farms spring into a riot of blossom.
Aug & Sep Perfect for hiking to Pulpit Rock or Trolltunga.

Best Places to Eat

A Lysverket

A Colonialen Restaurant

A Renaa Matbaren

A Egget

A Tre Brør

A Eidfjord Gjestegiveri

Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Park

A Stalheim Hotel

A Utne Hotel

A Myrkdalen Hotel

A Energihotellet

A Store Ringheim

Bergen & the Southwestern Fjords Highlights

1 Bergen Soaking up the Hanseatic heritage of Norway's most beautiful harbour.

2 Preikestolen Trekking up to the edge of the dizzying, sky-topping cliff.

3 Lysefjord Taking a leisurely cruise along the course of this stunning waterway.

4 Folgefonna Crossing the ice – carefully – on a guided glacier walk.

5 Hardangerfjord Driving through the orchards and farms of this peaceful fjord.

6 Trolltunga Dangling your feet over the edge on this stomach-turning ledge.

7 Voss Kayaking, skydiving or climbing in the area's centre for adrenaline-fuelled activities.

8 Kjeåsen Farm Hiking up the mountain from Eidfjord to this remote, olde-worlde farm.

9 Stavanger Enjoying the nightlife of Norway's high-rolling oil town.

Bergen

Pop 278,121

Surrounded by seven hills and seven fjords, Bergen is a beguiling city. During the early Middle Ages, it was an important seaport and a member of the Hanseatic League, as well as Norway's capital – a heritage that can still be glimpsed in the beautifully preserved wooden houses of Bryggen, now protected as a Unesco World Heritage site. Colourful houses creep up the hillsides, ferries flit around the fjords, and a cluster of excellent art museums provide a welcome detour in case Bergen's notoriously fickle weather sets in. Meanwhile, a large student population ensures the city has a buzzy bar scene and nightlife.

SAVING BRYGGEN

So beautiful and popular is Bryggen that it seems inconceivable that conservationists spent much of the 20th century fighting plans to tear it down.

Fire has destroyed Bryggen at least seven times (notably in 1702 and again in 1955, when one-third of Bryggen was destroyed). The tilt of the structures was caused in 1944, when a Dutch munitions ship exploded in the harbour, blowing off the roofs and shifting the pilings. The explosion and 1955 fire increased the already considerable clamour to tear down Bryggen once and for all; not only was it considered a dangerous fire hazard, but its run-down state was widely seen as an embarrassment. Plans for the redevelopment of the site included modern, eight-storey buildings, a bus station, a shopping centre and a car park.

What saved Bryggen were the archaeological excavations that took 13 years to complete after the 1955 fire, and which unearthed over one million artefacts. In 1962 the Bryggen Foundation (http://stiftelsenbryggen.no) and Friends of Bryggen were formed; the foundation still oversees its protection and restoration, although the buildings are privately owned.

One of the greatest challenges is the fact that Bryggen is actually sinking by an estimated 8mm each year. In 1979 Unesco inscribed Bryggen on its World Heritage list. For more information, visit the Bryggen Visitors Centre.

History

During the 12th and 13th centuries, Bergen was Norway's capital and the country's most important city. By the 13th century, the city states of Germany allied themselves into trading leagues, most significantly the Hanseatic League with its centre in Lübeck. At its zenith, the league had over 150 member cities and was northern Europe's most powerful economic entity; the sheltered harbour of Bryggen drew the Hanseatic League's traders in droves. The League established its first office here around 1360, transforming Bryggen into one of the league's four major headquarters abroad, accommodating up to 2000 mostly German resident traders who imported grain and exported dried fish, among other products.

For over 400 years, Bryggen was dominated by this tight-knit community of German merchants, who weren't permitted to mix with or marry Norwegians. By the 15th century, competition from Dutch and English shipping companies, internal disputes and, especially, the Black Death (which wiped out 70% of Bergen's population) ensured the Hanseatic League's decline.

By the early 17th century, Bergen was nonetheless the trading hub of Scandinavia again, and Norway's most populous city with 15,000 people. During the 17th and 18th centuries, many Hanseatic traders opted to take Norwegian nationality and join the local community. Bryggen remained an important maritime trading centre until 1899, when the Hanseatic League's Bergen offices finally closed.

Bergen Region

1Top Sights

1Edvard Grieg MuseumC3

2Ole Bull MuseumC6

1Sights

3Akvariet i BergenB1

4DamsgårdB2

5Fantoft Stave ChurchC3

6Fisheries MuseumC1

7Harald Sæverud MuseumB4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Bergen SegwayB1

Ulriken643C2

4Sleeping

9Klosterhagen HotelB1

10Lone CampingD2

11Skuteviken GjestehusC1

5Eating

12BienC2

13Cornelius Sjømat RestaurantA3

14Sky:SkraperenC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

Kippers Bar & KafeB1

3Entertainment

15USF VertfetB1

1Sights

Making time just to wander Bergen's historic neighbourhoods is a must. Beyond Bryggen, the most picturesque are the steep streets climbing the hill behind the Fløibanen funicular station, Nordnes (the peninsula that runs northwest of the centre, including along the southern shore of the main harbour) and Sandviken (the area north of Håkonshallen). It's a maze of winding lanes and clapboard houses, perfect for a quiet wander.

oBryggenHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )F

Bergen's oldest quarter runs along the eastern shore of Vågen Harbour (bryggen translates as 'wharf') in long, parallel and often leaning rows of gabled buildings. Each has stacked-stone or wooden foundations and reconstructed rough-plank construction. It's enchanting, no doubt about it, but can be exhausting if you hit a cruise-ship and bus-tour crush.

The current 58 buildings (25% of the original, although some claim there are now 61) cover 13,000 sq metres and date from after the 1702 fire, although the building pattern is from the 12th century. The archaeological excavations suggest that the quay was once 140m further inland than its present location.

In the early 14th century, there were about 30 wooden buildings, each usually shared by several stuer (trading firms). They rose two or three stories above the wharf and combined business premises with living quarters and warehouses. Each building had a crane for loading and unloading ships, as well as a schøtstue (large assembly room) where employees met and ate.

The wooden alleyways of Bryggen have become a haven for artists and craftspeople, and there are bijou shops and boutiques at every turn. The atmosphere of an intimate waterfront community remains intact, and losing yourself in Bryggen is one of Bergen's pleasures.

oOle Bull MuseumMUSEUM

(Museet Lysøen; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %56 30 90 77; www.lysoen.no; adult/child incl guided tour 60/30kr; h11am-4pm mid-May–Aug, Sun only Sep)

This beautiful estate was built in 1873 as the summer residence of Norway’s first musical superstar, violinist Ole Bull. Languishing on its own private island, it's a fairy-tale concoction of turrets, onion domes, columns and marble inspired by Moorish architecture. Of particular note is the soaring pine music hall: it's hard not to imagine Bull practising his concertos in here.

Outside, the grounds are criss-crossed with 13km of lovely walks, and there's a small cafe.

The best way to arrive is aboard the passenger ferry (adult/child 60/30kr, eight minutes, hourly 11am to 3pm) which runs from Buena Quay to the island.

oEdvard Grieg MuseumMUSEUM

(Troldhaugen; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 92 29 92; http://griegmuseum.no; Troldhaugvegen 65, Paradis-Bergen; adult/child 100kr/free; h9am-6pm May-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Apr)

Composer Edvard Grieg and his wife Nina Hagerup spent summers at this charming Swiss-style wooden villa from 1885 until Grieg's death in 1907. Surrounded by fragrant, tumbling gardens and occupying a semi-rural setting – on a peninsula by coastal Nordåsvatnet lake, south of Bergen – it's a truly lovely place to visit.

Apart from Grieg's original home, there is a modern exhibition centre, a 200-seat concert hall and perhaps the most compelling feature of them all, a tiny, lake-side Composer's Hut.

Here the composer was always guaranteed silence, if not his muse.

From June to mid-September, there is a daily bus tour (adult/child/student and senior 250/100/200kr) departing from the tourist office at 11.30am. It includes transport, entrance and a short piano concert, and it’s wise to pre-purchase tickets. Also see the website or visit the tourist office for details of summer recitals; there is a free shuttle bus for evening performances. The best public transport access is via a city-centre tram to Nesttun (two-hour ticket 36kr), alighting at the stop ‘Hop’; from there it’s a 2km signed walk.

Central Bergen

1Top Sights

1KODEB2

1Sights

2Bergen KunsthallC2

KODE 1B2

3KODE 2B2

4KODE 3C2

5KODE 4C2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Bergen Food ToursC2

4Sleeping

7CityboxC3

8Grand Hotel TerminusD2

9Hotel No.13B1

10Hotel ParkB3

11Marken GjestehusD1

12Steens HotellB4

13Zander KD2

5Eating

14Colonialen RestaurantD1

LysverketC2

15Marg & BeinB3

16PingvinenB2

17Royal Gourmetburger og GinA1

6Drinking & Nightlife

18ApollonB2

19BlomB3

20Café OperaA1

LandmarkC2

21Nobel BopelB4

Terminus BarD2

3Entertainment

22Café SanaaD2

FinckenB2

23GarageB2

24GrieghallenC3

25HulenB4

7Shopping

26PepperB2

oKODEGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53 00 97 04; www.kodebergen.no; Rasmus Meyers allé; adult/child 100kr/free, includes all 4 museums, valid 2 days))

A catch-all umbrella for Bergen's art museums, KODE showcases one of the largest art-and-design collections in Scandinavia. Each of the four buildings has its own focus: KODE 1 houses a national silver collection and the renowned Singer art collection; KODE 2 is for contemporary exhibitions; KODE 3 majors in Edvard Munch; and KODE 4 focuses on modern art.

KODE 1GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nordahl Bruns gate 9; h11am-5pm)

Reopened in 2017 after two years of renovation works, this impressive museum makes a good place to start your explorations of KODE's collection. Two new exhibitions have been unveiled for the reopening: one showcasing Norwegian gold and silverwork, and the other exploring the eclectic arts and antiques hoard amassed by 19th-century collectors William and Anna Brugh Singer. There's also another new exhibition covering the art of Queen Sonja of Norway, herself a keen amateur artist and inveterate collector.

KODE 2GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rasmus Meyers allé 3)

KODE 2 hosts several temporary exhibitions every year, as well as a contemporary art collection with a focus on Norwegian and Scandinavian artists from the 1980s onwards. Cafe Smakverket and a great gallery shop are at street level.

Note that at the time of writing, the museum was closed for redevelopment.

KODE 3GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rasmus Meyers allé 7; h10am-6pm)

KODE 3 is all about Edvard Munch: overall, the collection here is arguably even better than Oslo's Munch Museum. The rooms are fabulously intimate: highlights include several pieces from his Frieze of Life – a series of paintings depicting various aspects of the psyche – namely Jealousy, Melancholy, Women in Three Stages, Evening on Karl Johan and By the Death Bed.

KODE 4GALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rasmus Meyers allé 9; h11am-5pm; c)

Modern-art aficionados will want to make a beeline to KODE 4, which is home to a large permanent collection of European Modernist works including the odd Klee, Picasso and Miró, and there is a gallery dedicated to the Norwegian landscape painter Nikoli Astrup. The arresting 1930s building was the head office of Bergen's electrical power company.

Astrup's paintings are perhaps the highlight here. His neo-romantic, almost naive, paintings, drawings and woodcuts depict the fjords, fields and mountains of his home region of Jølster, as well as traditional life there at the beginning of the 20th century. Viewing his work makes for an evocative background to your own exploration of Norway’s west.

For those with little art lovers on board, KunstLab is Norway's first art museum especially designed for children; here kids are encouraged to explore artworks by Gauguin, Miró, Picasso and Slettemark through play and experimentation.

Restaurant and bar Lysverket is located on the ground floor.

Fisheries MuseumMUSEUM

(Norges Fiskerimuseum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53 00 61 60; http://fiskerimuseum.museumvest.no; Sandviksboder 23; adult/child 90kr/free; h10am-6pm Jun-Aug)

Housed in a series of wonky wharfside warehouses dating from the 18th century, this museum delves into the industry that sustained Bergen (along with the rest of Norway) for much of its history: fishing. The collection is wide-ranging, covering cod fishing, sealing and whaling, with vintage equipment such as antique divers' helmets and some disturbing-looking harpoons.

Bergen KunsthallGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %940 15 050; www.kunsthall.no; Rasmus Meyers allé 5; adult/child 50kr/free, from 5pm Thu free; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Thu)

Bergen’s major contemporary-art institution hosts significant exhibitions of international and Norwegian artists, often with a single artist's work utilising the entire space. The cleanly glamorous 1930s architecture is worth a look in itself. The attached venue and bar, Landmark, also hosts video and electronic art, concerts, film, performances and lectures.

DamsgårdHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bymuseet.no; Alleen 29, Laksevåg; adult/child 80kr/free; hnoon-4pm Jun-Aug, tours at noon & 2pm)

The 1770 Damsgård manor, 3km west of town, may well be Norway's (if not Europe's) finest example of 18th-century rococo timber architecture. The building's superbly over-the-top garden includes sculptures, ponds and plant specimens that were common 200 years ago. To get here, take bus 19 from Bergen's centre.

Bryggen & Vågen Harbour

1Top Sights

1BryggenC2

1Sights

2Activities, Courses & Tours

9Bergen Guide ServiceC2

Bryggen GuidingC1

10Fløibanen FunicularE3

11Rodne Fjord CruisesD4

4Sleeping

12Bergen Vandrerhjem YMCAD4

13Clarion Hotel AdmiralB3

14Det Hanseatiske HotelD3

15Skansen PensjonatE3

5Eating

16Bastant BryggenC2

17Bryggen TracteurstedC2

18Colonialen LitteraturhusetE5

Pølse KioskD4

19PotetkjellerenD4

20Torget Fish MarketD4

6Drinking & Nightlife

21Altona VinbarA3

22BryggerietD4

23Det Lille KaffekompanietE3

24KaffemisjonenE4

25Krog og KrinkelE3

26Una BryggeriD3

27VågenE4

3Entertainment

28ØstreE5

7Shopping

29Aksdal i MurenB4

30Antonio Stasi Classic CamerasE3

31Colonialen Strandgaten 18B5

32RøstC3

Bryggens MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 30 80 30; www.bymuseet.no; Dreggsallmenning 3; adult/child 80kr/free; h10am-4pm mid-May–Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

This archaeological museum was built on the site of Bergen's first settlement, and the 800-year-old foundations unearthed during its construction have been incorporated into the exhibits, which include medieval tools, pottery, skulls and runes. The permanent exhibition documenting Bergen c 1300 is particularly fascinating.

Hanseatic MuseumMUSEUM

(Hanseatisk Museum & Schøtstuene; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Finnegårdsgaten 1a & Øvregaten 50; adult/child 160/60kr; h9am-6pm Jul-Aug, 11am-2pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun Sep-May)

This interesting museum provides a window into the world of Hanseatic traders. Housed in a rough-timber building dating from 1704, it starkly reveals the contrast between the austere living and working conditions of the merchant sailors and apprentices, and the comfortable lifestyle of the trade partners.

Highlights include the manager's office, private liquor cabinet and summer bedroom; the apprentices' quarters, where beds were shared by two men; the fish storage room; and the fiskeskrue (fish press), which pressed and processed over a million pounds (450,000kg) of fish a month.

An essential complement to the Hanseatic Museum, Schøtstuene ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Øvregaten 50; adult/child 160/60kr incl Hanseatic Museum; h9am-6pm Jul-Aug, 11am-2pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun Sep-May) is a reconstruction of one of the original assembly halls where the fraternity of Hanseatic merchants once met for their business meetings and beer guzzling.

The admission price also includes entry to the Fisheries Museum, and transport in the free shuttle bus, which runs half-hourly from Bryggen.

King Håkons HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(Håkonshallen; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bymuseet.no; Bergenhus; adult/child/student 80kr/free/40kr; h10am-4pm mid-May–Aug, noon-3pm Sep–mid-May)

Viking fans will feel right at home at this impressive ceremonial hall, built by King Håkon Håkonsson in 1247–61 and completed for his son's wedding and coronation. Spread over three floors, it's been much restored, but the highlight is the large feasting room on the top floor, where lavish banquets would have been held.

Akvariet i BergenAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.akvariet.no; Nordnesbakken 4; adult/child 270/185kr; h9am-6pm; c)

At the end of the Nordnes Peninsula, this aquarium makes a worthwhile trip, especially for families. There are around 60 individual aquaria here, housing lots of interesting marine species from octopi to reef fish, although kids are bound to gravitate to the shark tunnel or the seals and penguins. There's also a tropical zone housing snakes, crocodiles and other reptiles.

On foot, you can get there from Torget in 20 minutes; alternatively, take the Vågen ferry or bus 11.

Fantoft Stave ChurchCHURCH

(Fantoft Stavkirke; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Paradis; adult/child/student 60/30/45kr; h10.30am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep)

This stave church, in the leafy southern suburb of Paradis, was built in Sognefjord around 1150 and moved here in 1883. It is, in fact, a reconstruction, as the original fell victim to an early-1990s black metal/neopagan church burning. The adjacent cross, originally from Sola in Rogaland, dates from 1050.

From Bergen, take the tram to Fantoft (two-hour ticket 36kr).

Theta MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 55 20 80; Enhjørningsgården; adult/child 20/10kr; h2-4pm Tue, Sat & Sun Jun-Aug)

Named after the Norwegian Resistance group who occupied it between 1940 and 1945, this excellent reconstruction of a clandestine Resistance headquarters, uncovered by the Nazis in 1942, is now Bryggen's tiniest museum. It's an atmospheric experience, with vintage radios and wartime memorabilia.

Bergen CathedralCATHEDRAL

(Domkirke; St Olav's Church; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 31 58 75; Domkirkeplass 1; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-12.30pm Tue-Fri rest of year)F

Bergen's cathedral features stonemasonry in the entrance hall carved by the same artisans who adorned Westminster Abbey's chapter house in London. From mid-June until the end of August, there are free organ recitals on Sunday and Thursday.

Renovations are due to finish in 2018, so there may still be some scaffolding when you visit.

RosenkrantztårnetTOWER

(Rosenkrantz Tower; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %479 79 578; www.bymuseet.no; Bergenhus; adult/child 60kr/free; h9am-4pm mid-May–Aug, noon-3pm Sun Sep–mid-May)

Built in the 1560s by Bergen governor Erik Rosenkrantz, this tower was a residence and defence post. It also incorporates parts of the keep (1273) of King Magnus the Lawmender and the 1520s fortress of Jørgen Hansson.

BERGEN IN...

Two Days

Have an early morning walk around Bergen's heart, the historic harbour, until you reach the old port of Bryggen and its lovely wooden warehouses. Drop in to the Bryggens Museum to put the area in historical context, then have lunch at the Torget fish market, where you can dine handsomely on whatever the day's catch has brought in. Spend the afternoon exploring the stellar art collection at KODE, and finish with an equally starry dinner at Lysverket.

On day two, begin with a coffee and pastry at Kaffemisjonen, then take a morning food tour and, if you're still hungry, lunch at Colonialen Litteraturhuset. After lunch, catch the cable car up to the top of Mt Fløyen, and hike some of the trails nearby. For dinner, go traditional with reindeer stew or fish cakes at Pingvinen.

Four Days

With more time, you can extend your sightseeing outside the city centre, with visits to the Edvard Grieg Museum on day three, and a memorable boat trip to the Ole Bull Museum on day four. Restaurants you won't want to miss are Colonialen for fine dining and the relaxed bistro of Marg & Bein ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 32 34 32; www.marg-bein.no; Fosswinckels gate 18; mains 255-279kr; h5-9.30pm Tue-Thu, 5-10pm Fri & Sat, 5-9.30pm Sun), and perhaps for a quirky treat, the island restaurant of Cornelius Sjømat for seafood.

2Activities

Ulriken643CABLE CAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53 64 36 43; www.ulriken643.no; adult/child/family return 170/100/460kr; h9am-9pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr)

Look up to the mountains from the harbour, and you'll spy a radio mast clad in satellite dishes. That's the top of Mt Ulriken (643m) you're spying, and on a clear day it offers a stunning panorama over city, fjords and mountains. Thankfully you don't have to climb it; a cable car speeds from bottom to top in just seven minutes.

Fløibanen FunicularCABLE CAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 33 68 00; www.floibanen.no; Vetrlidsalmenning 21; adult/child return 90/45kr; h7.30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11pm Sat & Sun)

For an unbeatable view of the city, ride the 26-degree Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mt Fløyen (320m), with departures every 15 minutes. From the top, well-marked hiking tracks lead into the forest; the possibilities are mapped out on the free Walking Map of Mount Fløyen, available from the Bergen tourist office.

BERGEN CARD

The Bergen Card (www.visitbergen.com/bergencard; adult/child 24hr pass 240/90kr, 48hr 310/1120kr, 72hr 380/150kr) gives you free entrance to most of Bergen's main museums, plus discounted entry to the rest. You also get free travel on public transport, free or discounted return trips on the Fløibanen funicular, depending on the time of year; free guided tours of Bergen; and discounts on city- and boat-sightseeing tours, concerts and cultural performances. It's available from the tourist office, some hotels, the bus terminal and online.

TTours

Bergen Guide Service ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 30 10 60; www.bergenguideservice.no; Holmedalsgården 4; adult/child 130kr/free; hoffice 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) offers guided walking tours of the city year-round, and in summer Bryggen Guiding ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 30 80 30; www.bymuseet.no; Bryggens Museum, Dreggsallm 3; adult/child 150kr/free) (run by the Bryggen Museum) runs historical walking tours of the Bryggen area.

oBergen Food ToursFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %960 44 892; www.bergenfoodtours.com; adult/child 800/700kr)

These three-hour food tours are a great way to ease yourself into Nordic cuisine. The classic walk includes stops at about eight different spots around the city, where you get to sample the goods: seafood, reindeer, pastries, craft beer and trekroneren (hot dogs), as well as fish soup made by none other than Bergen's top chef, Christopher Håtuft of Lysverket.

Tours usually leave near from near the KODE Museum.

oFjord ToursTOURS

(%81 56 82 22; www.fjordtours.com)

Bergen is a great place for a quick one-day jaunt into the fjords – especially if you have limited time. Hardangerfjord and Sognefjord can both easily be visited in a day from Bergen, or even from Oslo thanks to the popular Norway in a Nutshell tour, which packs in more in a single day than you thought possible.

The classic day-trip ticket (adult/child 1440/740kr from Bergen) combines the 6.52 morning train to Voss, a bus to the Stalheim Hotel and then on to Gudvangen, a ferry up the spectacular Nærøyfjord to Flåm, the mountain railway to Myrdal, and the train back to Bergen in time for a late dinner at 18.55. There's also an option to upgrade the cruise section onto a fancier boat for 1710/875kr.

You can also extend the standard day-trip on to Oslo as a one-way trip for 1890/980kr per adult/child, arriving around 10pm.

From May to September, Fjord Tours also runs a range of train–bus–boat return trips from Bergen, including the 10-hour Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell (adult/child 1430/890kr), which goes via Voss, Ulvik, Eidfjord and Norheimsund, and Sognefjord in a Nutshell (adult/child 1610/810kr), which explores more of Sognefjord by boat.

There are lots of other trips available, variously including Oslo, Sognefjorden, Geiranger, Ålesund and other areas – see the website for details.

If you're planning several tours and activities, it might be worth purchasing their FjordPass (150kr), which offers discounts on activities and sights across Norway, and is valid for two adults and two children.

Bergen SegwayTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %471 47 100; www.bergensegway.no; Bontelabo 2; standard tour 645kr, night tour 945kr)

If you can't face the thought of tackling Bergen's calf-straining hills, then here's the answer: hop aboard a Segway and let the – er, motor? – do the work. The standard tour takes in Bryggen, the city centre, the fish market and a panoramic hilltop view on Mt Fløyen. There's also a racier night-time option. Utterly bonkers, but fun.

Rodne Fjord CruisesBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 25 90 00; www.rodne.no; Torget; adult/child/family 550/350/1250kr; h10am & 2.30pm daily Mar-Oct, 10am Wed-Fri, noon Sat & Sun Nov-Feb)

This experienced company offers a 3½-hour fjord tour to Osterfjord and the Mostraumen strait, north of Bergen. Along the way you'll pass several waterfalls, so be prepared to get your face wet. Boats depart from the waterfront next to the fish market. Tickets can be bought onboard, at the ferry terminal before departure, or in advance at the tourist office.

FonnaflySCENIC FLIGHTS

(%55 34 60 00; www.fonnafly.no; from 5500kr for 3 passengers)

This national group will put together a custom sightseeing trip in a helicopter – the aerial views over the fjords are once-in-a-lifetime stuff, but they don't come cheap.

DON'T MISS

FJORD TOURS FROM BERGEN

There are dozens of tours of the fjords from Bergen; the tourist office has a full list and you can buy tickets there or purchase them online. Most offer discounts if you have a Bergen Card. For a good overview, pick up the Round Trips – Fjord Tours & Excursions brochure from the tourist office, which includes tours offered by a range of private companies. Fjord Tours and Rodne Fjord Cruises are the key operators.

zFestivals & Events

Bergen Beer FestivalBEER

(Bergen Ølfestival; www.bergenolfestival.no; hSep)

Bergen's beer-drinkers get to taste brews from across the globe in this lively two-day celebration of all things ale. Well, this is a Viking nation after all.

Bergen International FestivalCULTURAL

(www.fib.no; hlate May)

Held over 14 days, this is the big cultural festival of the year, with dance, music, theatre and visual-arts shows throughout the city.

Night Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(www.nattjazz.no; hMay)

May jazz festival that is popular with Bergen's large student population.

Bergen Food FestivalFOOD & DRINK

(www.matfest.no; hSep)

September showcase of local food producers (including whale, should you wish to avoid it).

Bergen International Film FestivalFILM

(www.biff.no; hlate Sep)

Cinematic celebration held in late September.

4Sleeping

Bergen has a reasonably good choice of hotels, but it's very popular and hosts regular conferences and events. It's always sensible to book before arriving in town, especially in summer and for festivals.

The tourist office has an accommodation-booking service both online and on site.

CityboxHOSTEL, HOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 31 25 00; www.citybox.no; Nygårdsgaten 31; s from 799kr, d 899-999kr, f 1545kr; W)

Norway's first hostel-hotel minichain began in Bergen, and it's still doing brisk business – especially since a 2017 extension has added a whole new wing. It's a long way from budget-digs territory – this is more like a smart hotel, with clean white walls, soft beds and fluffy duvets. The decor is simple, but it's a real bargain for Bergen.

Lone CampingCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 39 29 60; www.lonecamping.no; Hardangerveien 697, Haukeland; campsites car with 2 people 230kr, cabins 645-1355kr)

This lakeside campsite 20km from Bergen, between Espeland and Haukeland, is accessible by public transport; bus 900 runs to/from town (53kr, 30 minutes).

Marken GjestehusHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 31 44 04; www.marken-gjestehus.com; Kong Oscars gate 45; dm 290kr, s/d with shared bathroom 695/995kr)

Midway between the harbour and the train station, this hostel-within-a-hotel has simple, modern rooms. White walls and wooden floors lend a sense of light and space, bright chairs and wall decals are cheery, and the communal areas are more stylish than you'd expect for the price. Take the lift to reception.

Bergen Vandrerhjem YMCAHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 60 60 55; www.bergenhostel.no; Nedre Korskirkealmenning 4; dm/s/d 215/600/850kr)

This wallet-friendly hostel has a lot in its favour: the dorms are great value, the decor inside is sparklingly clean, the kitchen is well equipped and there's a cracking harbour-view roof terrace. Even better – all rooms have en suite and minifridge. The downsides: the location can be noisy, and rates are hiked in summer.

oHotel ParkHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 54 44 00; www.hotelpark.no; Harald Hårfagresgate 35; s/d 1290/1790kr; W)

Two 19th-century houses combined comprise this family-run beauty, still managed by the daughters of the long-time owner. Packed with curios and antiques, it's a lovely, welcoming place to stay – all 33 rooms are slightly different, with quirky layouts and surprising design touches; corner rooms have the best views over Bergen's rooftops and Mt Fløyen.

Zander KHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 36 20 40; www.zanderk.no; Zander Kaaesgate 8; s/d from 1050/1690kr; aW)

This modern, white-fronted hotel makes a swanky addition to Bergen's rather staid sleeping scene. It offers spacious, grey-toned rooms, laid out in various configuration, from doubles to family-sized. The lobby, bar and restaurant set the stripped-back design tone, with their tall windows, swooshy sofas and globe lights – a modernistic theme which runs throughout. It's dead handy for the station, too.

Bikes are available free for guests.

Klosterhagen HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53 00 22 00; www.klosterhagenhotell.no; Strangehagen 2; s/d 990/1390kr; W)

This little 15-room hotel in the pretty neighbourhood of Nordnes is just the ticket if you're tired of the faceless chains. Rooms are bright, colourful and modern in style, with attractive sells like slate-tiled bathrooms and smart Scandi furniture. There's a pleasant courtyard garden, and you're surrounded by classic Nordnes rowhouses and well-trimmed gardens.

Grand Hotel TerminusHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 21 25 00; www.ght.no; Zander Kaaesgate 6; d 1590-1990kr, ste from 2090kr; W)

If it's heritage you want, then the Terminus is your place. Located directly opposite the station, this fine old hotel dating from 1928 harks back to the heyday of rail travel. The elegant lobby and the wood-panelled whisky bar make a suitably swish first impression; sadly the rooms are less starry, especially cheaper ones, so upgrades are worth it here.

Skuteviken GjestehusGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %934 67 163; www.skutevikenguesthouse.com; Skutevikens smalgang 11; 2-person apt 1100-1200kr; W)

This timber guesthouse, set on a small cobbled street in Sandviken, is decorated with white wicker furniture, lace cushions and a few modern touches. The rooms are promoted as apartments, with separate living rooms, kitchenette and en-suite bathrooms, but in truth they're just large rooms. Rates are per person; they start at 450kr in winter and 550kr in summer.

Steens HotellHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 30 88 88; www.steenshotel.no; Parkveien 22; s 890-1390kr, d 1090-1890kr; pW)

Originally built as a private house in the 1890s, this period place has lashings of historical interest, from original stained-glass windows to a curving staircase that winds up to the top floor. Rooms aren't quite as impressive; they're plain in style, but top-floor ones have a pleasant view. Best of all, it has parking.

Skansen PensjonatGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 31 90 80; www.skansen-pensjonat.no; Vetrlidsalmenning 29; s/d/apt 550/900/1100kr; W)

This cute-as-a-button, seven-room place has an unbeatable location high up behind the lower funicular station. The house retains a traditional feel, rooms are light and airy (if far from fancy), and the 'balcony room' has one of Bergen's best views. It's on a steep, winding lane, and extremely tricky to find the first time – phone ahead if you're unsure.

Hotel No.13BOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 36 13 00; www.nordicchoicehotels.no/nordic-resort/hotel-no13; Torgalmenningen 13; d 2160-2540kr, ste 5580kr; aW)

You couldn't ask for a better location than at this smart, pale-grey building, on a pedestrianised thoroughfare just a short walk from the waterfront. Now owned by the Nordic Choice chain, it's a smart offering, with a bold (too bold?) decor choice combining black floors with puce furnishings and splashes of art. The suite has a curving glass skylight.

Det Hanseatiske HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 30 48 00; www.dethanseatiskehotell.no; Finnegårdsgaten 2; d from 1890kr; W)

This is the only hotel to be housed in one of Bryggen's original timber buildings. Spread over two buildings and connected by a glassed-in walkway, extraordinary architectural features from Bryggen's days as a Hanseatic port mix with luxe contemporary fittings. It's undeniably atmospheric, though some rooms get the mix better than others.

Clarion Hotel AdmiralHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 23 64 00; www.nordicchoicehotels.no; C Sundts gate 9; s/d from 1690/1940kr; aW)

You couldn't ask for a finer view than here: most rooms look right across the harbour to Bryggen. Throw in smart rooms with a choice of wood or carpet floors, a palette of tastefully muted colours, and a decent in-house restaurant, and you have a thoroughly decent Bergen base – albeit one that's a bit short on pizzazz.

5Eating

Bergen's culinary scene is a diverse one, taking in a small but internationally acknowledged local-food movement, lots of casual places catering to the city's student population and quite a few bastions of west-coast tradition. As might be expected, the fish and seafood are something special.

Coffee is taken seriously in Bergen, with a couple of specialist places catering for caffeine connoisseurs.

oTorget Fish MarketSEAFOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Torget; lunches 99-169kr; h7am-7pm Jun-Aug, 7am-4pm Mon-Sat Sep-May)

For most of its history, Bergen has survived on the fruits of the sea, so there's no better place for lunch than the town's lively fish market, where you'll find everything from salmon to calamari, fish and chips, prawn baguettes and seafood salads. If you can afford it, the sides of smoked salmon are some of the best in Norway.

Royal Gourmetburger og GinBURGERS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %56 90 12 33; www.royalburger.no; Neumanns gate 2a; burgers 169-219kr; h3pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; v)

Every city needs its burger joint, and in Bergen it's Royal – a friendly corner bar with a lavish line-up of stacked burgers loaded with sauces, salads, pickles and cheeses. Vegetarians are surprisingly well catered for – try the Beirut, with falafel and spicy hummus, or the Forest King, with portobello mushroom, comté and truffle oil. The gin menu's ace, too.

Bastant BryggenCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %400 72 247; Jacobsfjorden 4, Bryggestredet; soups 99-129kr, sandwiches from 119kr; h11am-5pm)S

Cuddle in or take away at this super-popular, all-organic cafe in the heart of Bryggen's tiny alleyways. Daily soups always include a vegan, vegetarian and meat option, and sandwiches are hearty. There are homemade lemonade and strawberry frappés in summer, killer hot chocolates when it's cold and excellent coffee year-round.

Pølse KioskHOT DOGS$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kong Oscars gate 1; hot dogs from 55kr; h10am-2am)

If you've been travelling around Norway for a while, you may be heartily sick of hot dogs bought from petrol stations. But this place has real sausages (including wild game, reindeer, lamb and chilli) and a better-than-average range of sauces.

BienBISTRO$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 59 11 00; www.bienbar.no; Fjøsangerveien 30, Kronstad; lunch 109-149kr, dinner 189-285kr; hnoon-midnight)

Easily accessible by tram to Danemarks pass, and handy if you're driving in or out of town, this restaurant and bar is a true locals' haunt. A former pharmacy, the 1930s shop fittings remain entirely intact and are stunning. The menu is short and comforting: famous ragu Bolognese, fish or meat done simply, but with flair and excellent produce.

Colonialen LitteraturhusetNORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 90 16 00; www.colonialen.no/litteraturhuset; Østre skostredet 5-7; lunch 145-245kr, dinner 180-280kr; h9-11pm Tue-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat)

The more laid-back, bistro sister to Colonialen Restaurant, this is a favourite for Bergeners looking for a relaxed but refined lunch. It's a quietly elegant space, with neutral walls and blonde-wood tables creating that essential too-cool-for-school Nordic atmosphere, and dishes are full of flavour: leeky fish soup or meat-and-cheese platters for lunch; mountain trout or duck-leg confit for dinner.

PingvinenNORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 60 46 46; www.pingvinen.no; Vaskerelven 14; daily specials 119kr, mains 159-269kr; hnoon-3am)

Devoted to Norwegian home cooking, Pingvinen is the old favourite of everyone in Bergen. They come for meals their mothers and grandparents used to cook, and the menu always features at least one of the following: fish-cake sandwiches, reindeer, fish pie, salmon, lamb shank and raspeballer (sometimes called komle) – west-coast potato dumplings. Note that whale is served here.

oLysverketNORWEGIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 60 31 00; www.lysverket.no; KODE 4, Rasmus Meyers allé 9; lunch mains 165-195kr, lunch sharing menu with/without dessert 295/395kr, 4-/7-course menu 745/995kr; h11am-1am Tue-Sat)

If you're going to blow the budget on one meal in Norway, make it here. Chef Christopher Haatuft is pioneering his own brand of Nordic cuisine, which he dubs 'neo-fjordic' – in other words, combining modern techniques with the best fjord-sourced produce. His food is highly seasonal, incredibly creative and full of surprising textures, combinations and flavours. Savour every mouthful.

The restaurant is housed in the offices of the city's power company (the name means 'light works'), and there's still plenty of industrial styling – from the brass pendant lamps to the huge, deco-esque windows. If you'd rather not go the full tasting menu, bar snacks like fish soup, grain ragu and scallops with turnip emulsion are also served. In between, the lunchtime smorgasbord sharing menu is a perfect price/flavour compromise.

Colonialen RestaurantNORWEGIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 90 16 00; www.colonialen.no/restaurant/; Kong Oscars gate 44; 6-/8-course tasting menu 895/1195kr; h6-11pm Mon-Sat)

Part of an ever-expanding culinary empire, this flagship fine-diner showcases the cream of New Nordic cuisine. It's playful and pushes boundaries, sure, but the underlying flavours are classic, and employ the very best Norwegian ingredients, especially from the west coast. Presentation is impeccable – expect edible flowers and unexpected ingredients aplenty. Strange it's on the dingy side of town.

Cornelius Sjømat RestaurantSEAFOOD$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %56 33 48 80; www.cornelius-restaurant.no; Måseskjæret 18, Holman; 3-/5-course menus incl transport 895/1095kr; h6-10.30pm)

This island restaurant offers a seafood meal to remember. Their tanks are stocked with everything from scallops to lobsters and sea urchins, which make it onto their 'Meteorological Menu', supplemented by foraged seaweed, home-smoked salmon and microherbs. It's in a lovely glass-fronted building on the island's shoreline; the 25-minute boat trip is included, leaving at 6pm and returning at 10.30pm.

Sky:SkraperenNORWEGIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 32 04 04; http://ulriken643.no/; Ulrikens topp; mains 155-250kr; h9am-9pm May-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Apr)

This is truly dining with a view. Located at the top of Mt Ulviken, this smart restaurant serves a mix of jazzed-up, down-home dishes on its 'mountain menu', from classic fish soup to mountain trout served with pickles and potatoes – but the food is only half the story here. It's the unreal view you're also coming for.

PotetkjellerenNORWEGIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 32 00 70; Kong Oscars gate 1a; mains 315-355kr; h4-10pm Mon-Sat)

The 'Potato Cellar' is one of Bergen's classic restaurants, with a monthly menu based around seasonal ingredients and Norwegian traditions. As the name suggests, it's in an atmospheric cellar dating from the 15th century. Expect rich dishes such as poached cod with artichoke cream, mussels and apple, or lamb shank with balsamic reduction.

Bryggen TracteurstedNORWEGIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bryggestredet 2, Bryggen; lunch mains 185-215kr, dinner mains 285-385kr; h11am-10pm May-Sep)

Housed in a 1708 building that ranges across the former stables, kitchen (note the stone floor, which meant that it was the only Bryggen building allowed to have a fire) and Bergen's only extant schøtstuene (dining hall), this restaurant serves traditional Norwegian dishes that change regularly; it's pubby and informal by day, traditionally upmarket by night.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Bergen has a great bar scene and locals are enthusiastic drinking companions. Most of them favour the places in the centre or southwest of Øvre Ole Bulls plass. Big, multilevel nightclubs cluster around here, too; they are easy to spot, often fabulously trashy, and only admit those over 24.

oLandmarkBAR, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %940 15 050; Bergen Kunsthalle, Rasmus Meyers allé 5; hcafe 11am-5pm Tue-Sun, bar 7pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat)

This large, airy room is a beautiful example of 1930s Norwegian design and is named for architect Ole Landmark. It multitasks: daytime cafe, lecture and screening hall; live-performance space, bar and venue for Bergen's best club nights. It's a favourite with the city's large creative scene. The cafe serves yummy lunches, with a choice of open-faced sandwiches and a weekly melt (995kr to 1295kr).

oTerminus BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zander Kaaesgate 6, Grand Terminus Hotel; h5pm-midnight)

Consistently voted one of the world's best whisky bars, this grand old bar in the Grand Hotel Terminus is the perfect place for a quiet dram. It promises more than 500 different tastes, and the oldest whisky dates back to 1960. The 1928 room looks gorgeous both before and after you've sampled a few.

BryggerietMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 55 31 55; www.bryggeriet.biz; Torget 2; h4-10pm Tue-Thu, 6-10.30pm Fri & Sat)

Bergen's brewheads and beer-nuts hold this downtown microbrewery in high esteem for its creative, interesting beers, mostly brewed in the Germanic tradition, and developed in partnership with the head chef to match the Teutonic-flavoured food. Up on the 3rd floor near the fish market, it's a rustic, cosy space with fine water views – and the beers are barnstorming.

VågenCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %93 96 34 50; Kong Oscars gate 10; h9am-7pm Sun-Thu, 9am-8pm Fri & Sat)

Coffee beans from Ethiopia, Brazil and Colombia are just a few of the selection available at this studiously shabby coffee bar, ideally placed for a caffeine fix after wandering around Bryggen or the harbour. There's a cute garden out back and plenty of pastries to munch, and there's free coffee cupping every Friday at 9am.

ApollonBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 31 59 43; www.apollon.no; Nygårdsgaten 2a; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-midnight Sun)

Sink a beer while you browse for some vintage vinyl at this too-cool-for-school record store and late-night hangout, in business since the early '80s. Racks of records take up one side of the shop, with the other side occupied by a well-stocked bar serving local beers. The shop sometimes hosts in-store performances.

BlomCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; John Lunds plass 1; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun; W)

This cafe is known for its excellent coffee (this is where off-duty baristas come for a pour-over) and attracts a fashionable, young crowd. It's a simple, warm place, with sweet service, lots of room to pull out your laptop, big sandwiches and more-ish homemade muesli slices, brownies and fruit crumbles. It's run by the people behind Kaffemisjonen.

Nobel BopelBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Welhavens gate 64, Møhlenpris; h11.30am-11pm Thu & Fri, 11.30am-6pm Sat & Sun)S

This corner cafe is a favourite weekend hangout for hipster Bergeners. It's in Møhlenpris, a studenty part of town, and is popular for its laid-back, easy-going vibe. Food is mostly organic, with bread supplied daily by Colonialen bakery (the brunch plates are particularly good), and there's a great selection of Norwegian microbrews and wines by the glass.

Una BryggeriBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %919 00 923; Bryggen 7; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat)

Craft-beer aficionados will want to reserve a good few hours to work their way through the panoply of brews available at this red-brick brewery by the harbour. The line-up represents many of Norway's top microbrews on tap, including the brewery's own; knowledgeable bar staff will happily guide you through the selection. Pub food is on offer, too.

KaffemisjonenCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Øvre Korskirkealmenning 5; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

Bergen's coffee crowd has been well served by this upmarket cafe for more than a decade now, and it's still the place to go for top-notch flat whites and pour-overs. It's a smart combo of tiles, steel and minimalism; the owners also run Blom, in the more studenty quarter across town.

Det Lille KaffekompanietCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nedre Fjellsmug 2; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

This was one of Bergen's first third-wave coffee places and retains a super-local feel. Everyone overflows onto the neighbouring stairs when the sun's out and you're not sure which table belongs to whom.

Kippers Bar & KafeBAR

(USF; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Georgernes Verft 12; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri & Sat, noon-11pm Sun)

For a tipple with a watery view, then look no further than Kippers, a light and bright cafe with an unmatched outlook over the harbour, docks and far hills. Light bites are available, too, if you get peckish.

Krog og KrinkelCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %458 36 332; Lille Øvregaten 14; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

This little charmer lies off the beaten track, but it's worth the effort of finding – there's not a sweeter spot for afternoon tea and cake anywhere in Bergen. Follow the cobbles of lovely Lille Øvregaten, and head down the steps into the basement, full of vintage knick-knacks, old bottles, upcycled furniture and books.

Café OperaCAFE, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafeopera.org; Engen 18; h10am-12.30pm Mon-Wed, to 3pm Thu & Fri, 11am-3pm Sat, to midnight Sun)

A stalwart of Bergen's cafe scene for decades, this is an attractive twin-floored space that's pleasantly set back from the harbour hustle. By day it's a place to hang over sandwiches, coffee and cake; after dark it slips into a slinkier mode for cocktails, folky gigs and DJs. The pavement tables are lovely on a sunny day.

Altona VinbarWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 30 40 00; www.augustin.no/en/altona; C Sundts gate 22; h6pm-12.30am Mon-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat)

Set in a warren of vaulted underground rooms that date from the 16th century, Altona's huge, carefully selected wine list, soft lighting and murmured conversation make it Bergen's most romantic bar (particularly appealing when the weather's cold and wet). The bar menu tends towards tasty comfort food, such as Norwegian lamb burgers (190kr).

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS

Bergen has a busy program of concerts throughout summer, many of them focusing on Bergen’s favourite son, composer Edvard Grieg. Most take place at evocative open-air venues such as the Grieg Museum, the Harald Sæverud Museum (Siljustøl; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 92 29 92; www.siljustolmuseum.no; Siljustølveien 50, Råda; adult/child 60kr/free; hnoon-4pm Sun late Jun–mid-Aug), atop Mt Fløyen and in the park adjacent to Håkonshallen. For details, schedules and ticket sales, see the tourist office; for some classical concert series, the Bergen Card offers significant discounts. Bergen Cathedral also offers free organ recitals on Sunday and Thursday from mid-June until the end of August.

3Entertainment

ØstreLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oestre.no; Østre Skostredet 3)

This venue hosts cutting-edge Norwegian electronic artists, along with respected international acts. There are often three or more gigs a week; see the website for their calendar.

USF VertfetLIVE MUSIC

(USF; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 31 00 60; www.usf.no; Georgernes Verft 12; h11am-11pm)

This huge arts and culture complex in a renovated warehouse space hosts a varied program of contemporary art exhibitions, theatre, dance, gigs and other cultural happenings, and also has an excellent on-site cafe, Kippers.

GarageLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 32 19 80; www.garage.no; Christies gate 14; h3pm-3am Mon-Sat, 5pm-3am Sun)

Garage has taken on an almost mythical quality for music lovers across Norway. They do have the odd jazz and acoustic act, but this is a rock-and-metal venue at heart, with well-known Norwegian and international acts drawn to the cavernous basement. Stop by for their Sunday jam sessions in summer.

HulenLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 32 31 31; www.hulen.no; Olaf Ryes vei 48; h9pm-3am Thu-Sat)

Another minor legend of the Norwegian music scene, this basement club has hosted top rock and indie bands since opening its doors in 1968. Hulen means 'cave' and the venue is indeed underground, in a converted bomb shelter.

FinckenCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fincken.no; Nygårdsgaten 2a; h7pm-1.30am Wed & Thu, 8pm-3am Fri & Sat)

Pretty much the only gay club in Bergen, which ensures it's nearly always packed out at weekends. It's a happy, upbeat place, with a varied music line-up encompassing R&B, tropical reggae, Latin and pure pop. You need to be aged over 20 on weekends.

Café SanaaLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sanaa.no; Marken 31; h8pm-3am Fri & Sat)

This little shopfront cafe just up from the lake spills over onto the cobblestones and draws a fun, alternative crowd with live music and, later, resident DJs that might be pumping out West African beats, tango, blues or jazz.

GrieghallenCLASSICAL MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 21 61 50; www.grieghallen.no; Edvard Griegs plass; hAug-Jun)

Performances by the respected Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra take place inside this striking glass hall.

7Shopping

oColonialen Strandgaten 18DELI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 90 16 00; www.colonialen.no; Strandgaten 18; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat)

The latest addition to the Colonialen arsenal, this impeccably cool cafe-deli serves up lavish lunchtime sandwiches, plus an irresistible selection of cold cuts, cheeses, oils, smoked fish and so much more. It's also the best place in town to try baked goodies and breads from Colonialen's own bakery – including their to-die-for cinnamon buns.

oAksdal i MurenCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 24 24 55; www.aksdalimuren.no; Østre Muralmenning 23; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat)

This enticing shop in a historic landmark building has been ensuring the good people of Bergen are warm and dry since 1883. The city's best selection of rainwear includes cult Swedish labels such as Didriksons, big names including Helly Hansen and Barbour, but also local gems such as Blæst by Lillebøe. We can't think of a better Bergen souvenir than a stripey sou'wester.

RøstGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %488 94 499; www.butikkenrost.no; Bryggen 15; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun)

Short on souvenir-buying time and want something a bit more upmarket than a troll doll? This bright boutique right in the centre of Bryggen has a large range of well-designed Norwegian and Scandinavian objects and homewares, as well as local fashion for women, children and babies.

PepperFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 32 82 60; Christies gate 9; h10am-7pm Non-Fri, to 6pm Sat)

If you are overcome with the urge to get the artfully informal 'Bergen look', this is the city's best-curated fashion retailer. There's a solid selection of Swedish stars such as Filippa K and Acne, Denmark's stylish but sturdy menswear Norse Projects and haute-casual French labels A.P.C. and Maison Kitsune.

Antonio Stasi Classic CamerasPHOTOGRAPHY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %55 32 47 42; www.antoniostasi.com; Lille Øvregaten 4; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat)

An anti-Instagrammer's dream: Antonio Stasi's shop is a hymn to the art of analogue photography, with a huge collection of Leica, Contax, Rolleiflex and classic Polaroids. Come to chat about classic cameras and darkroom techniques, and you might even find yourself snapped and added to his customer Polaroid collection.

8Information

Medical Services

Haukeland University Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %05300; Jonas Lies vei 65; h24hr) 24-hour accident & emergency.

Tourist Information

Bergen Turlag DNT Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %55 33 58 10; www.bergen-turlag.no; Tverrgaten 4; h10am-4pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 6pm Thu, to 3pm Sat) Maps and information on hiking and hut accommodation throughout western Norway.

Bryggen Visitors Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jacobsfjorden, Bryggen; h9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep) Maps and activities in the Bryggen neighbourhood.

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %55 55 20 00; www.visitbergen.com; Strandkaien 3; h8.30am-10pm Jun-Aug, 9am-8pm May & Sep, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) One of the best and busiest in the country, Bergen's tourist office distributes the free and worthwhile Bergen Guide booklet, as well as a huge stock of information on the entire region. They also sell rail tickets. If booking or making an enquiry, come early or be prepared to queue.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Bergen Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.avinor.no/en/airport/bergen-airport) is at Flesland, about 18km southwest of the centre. It's served by the following airlines:

Norwegian (www.norwegian.com) Flights to Oslo and Tromsø.

SAS (www.sas.no) Connects with Oslo and Stavanger.

Widerøe (www.wideroe.no) Flies to Oslo, Haugesund, Stavanger and many coastal destinations as far north as Tromsø.

Boat

International ferries to/from Bergen dock at Skoltegrunnskaien ( GOOGLE MAP ; Skoltegrunnskaien), northwest of the Rosenkrantz tower, while the Hurtigruten coastal ferry leaves from the Hurtigruteterminalen ( GOOGLE MAP ; Nøstegaten 30), southwest of the centre.

A number of operators offer express boat services, leaving from the Strandkaiterminal ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Norled ( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 86 87 00; www.norled.no; Kong Christian Frederiks plass 3) offers at least one daily ferry service to Sogndal (adult/child 705/353kr, 5 hours) and Flåm (adult/child 825/415kr, 5½ hours).

Bus

Flybussen ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.flybussen.no; one way/return adult 90/160kr, child 50/80kr) runs up to four times hourly between the airport, the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, the main bus terminal and opposite the tourist office on Vågsallmenningen.

Various companies run long-distance routes across Norway from Bergen's bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Vestre Strømkaien), located on Vestre Strømkaien. Nor-Way (www.nor-way.no) provides a useful travel planner.

Buses from Bergen

Destination	Cost (kr)	Time (hr)	Frequency (per day)
Lillehammer	646	8½	1
Oslo	498-577	10	4
Stavanger	475	5½	6
Voss	190	1½	1

Train

The spectacular train journey between Bergen and Oslo (349 to 905kr, 6½ to eight hours, five daily) runs through the heart of Norway. Other destinations include Voss (204kr, one hour, hourly) and Myrdal (299 to 322kr, 2¼ hours, up to nine daily) for connections to the Flåmsbana railway. Early bookings can secure you some great discounts.

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Bergen Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %400 04 059; www.norwayactive.no; Bontelabo 2; adult per 2hr/day 200/500kr) Rental bikes near the quay.

Sykkelbutikken ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sykkelbutikken.no; Kong Oscars gate 81; touring bikes per day/week 250/850kr; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Bicycle hire near the train station.

Boat

The Vågen Harbour Ferry (Beffen; GOOGLE MAP ; %55 56 04 00; www.beffenfergen.no; adult/child 25/15kr; hevery 10min, 7.30-4pm Mon-Fri year-round, 11am-4pm Sat May-Aug) runs between Bryggen and Tollbodhopen at Nordnes (near the Bergen Aquarium).

Bus & Tram

Skyss (%177; www.skyss.no) operates buses and light-rail trams throughout Bergen. Fares are based on a zone system; one-trip tickets cost 37kr to 62kr, and can be bought from the machines at tram stops. Ten-trip tickets are also available, and you get free travel with the Bergen Card.

Car & Motorcycle

Parking is a bit of an expensive headache in Bergen. Few hotels have their own car parks, which means you'll have to resort to one of the public car parks in the city centre. The largest and cheapest is the 24-hour Bygarasjen ( GOOGLE MAP ; per 24 hours 150kr) next to the bus terminal, which also has a covered walkway leading straight to the train station. Elsewhere you'll pay upwards of 200kr per day. The tourist office has two brochures covering where to park in Bergen.

Bergen in Colour

Bergen is a winning combination of colourful Scandinavian maritime architecture and a glorious setting on the cusp of Norway’s glorious fjord country. Add to this a dynamic cultural life and an unmistakeable joie de vivre from its fish markets to traditional restaurants, and you’ve one of Europe’s most beguiling cities.

Bryggen

Bergen’s oldest quarter, World Heritage–listed and filled with boutiques and workshops.

Bergen Kunsthall

Hosts international and Norwegian contemporary-art exhibitions in a stunning 1930s building.

Fløibanen Funicular

Ascending Mt Fløyen in this funicular offers breathtaking views over Bergen.

Torget Fish Market

A fantastic market for those wishing to try some of Norway’s best and freshest seafood.

Voss & Around

Though most visitors speed through the countryside around Voss, there are a few small villages that are worthy of a stop, including little Evanger, the ski-resort at Myrkdalen and the junction town of Myrdal, from where the Flåmsbana railway twists down the mountainside to Flåm on Aurlandsfjorden, an arm of Sognefjorden.

Voss

Pop 14,168

Voss (also known as Vossevangen) sits on a sparkling lake not far from the fjords and this position has earned it a world-renowned reputation as Norway's adventure capital. The town itself is far from pretty, but everyone is here for white-water rafting, bungee jumping and just about anything you can do from a parasail, most of it out in the fjords.

1Sights

Voss FolkemuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://www.vossfolkemuseum.no/aktuelt; Mølstervegen 143; adult/child 90kr/free; h10am-5pm mid-May–Aug, noon-3pm Mon-Fri Sep-Apr)

This museum consists of a number of historic farms and homes, with the showpiece a hilltop farm at Mølster, high above Voss. The collection of 16 farm buildings here were once typical of the region and date from 1600 to 1870. Tours are on the hour, every hour.

VangskyrkjaCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; Uttrågata; adult/child 20kr/free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)

Voss' stone church occupies the site of an ancient pagan temple. A Gothic-style stone church was built here in the mid-13th century and although the original stone altar and unique wooden spire remain, the Lutheran Reformation of 1536 saw the removal of many original features. The 1923 stained-glass window commemorates the 900th anniversary of Christianity in Voss. Miraculously, the building escaped destruction during the intense German bombing of Voss in 1940.

Nearby is the important monument of St Olav's Cross.

St Olav's CrossMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP )

In a field around 150m southeast of the tourist office stands the weathered stone erected in 1023 to commemorate the local conversion to Christianity.

2Activities

Voss lives for its outdoor activities, and there are loads to choose from. Bookings can be made directly or through the tourist office.

Although normally done from Oslo or Bergen, the Norway in a Nutshell tour run by Fjord Tours can also be done from Voss.

Voss VindSKYDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %401 05 999; www.vossvind.no; Oberst Bulls veg 28; adult/child 765/565kr; h10am-8pm mid-June–mid-Aug, noon-8pm Wed-Sun rest of year)

If you've always wanted to feel what it's like to skydive, but the thought of actually hurling yourself out of a plane fills you with mortal terror, then this amazing place can help. It has a wind tunnel that simulates the experience of free fall only without any danger of turning yourself into a cowpat. There's a minimum age of five years.

Voss ResortSKIING, CYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %470 04 700; www.vossresort.no; Bavallstunet 26)

The ski season in Voss usually lasts from early December until April. The winter action focuses on this resort in Bavallen, 5km north of the centre. It's used for international downhill competitions and has a snowboard park and ski school.

On the plateau and up the Raundalen Valley at Mjølfjell, you'll find excellent cross-country skiing. There are also several pistes around Mt Hangur.

In summer, the trails open up for downhill mountain-biking.

VossafjellHIKING

(%991 51 500; www.vossafjell.no)

This hiking company runs a number of guided walks, including to the top of Horndalsnuten and a heritage fjord walk that takes in farm villages and a cruise. There's usually a five-person minimum to run the hikes, but give them a call and see if there's a group you can join.

Voss ActiveADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 51 05 25; www.vossactive.no; Nedkvitnesvegen 25; h9am-9pm mid-May–Sep)

This outdoors company specialises in organising rafting trips on local rivers including the Stranda, Raundalen and Vosso, but more recently it's branched out into lots of other activities, too, from canyoning and rappelling to fishing, guided hikes and – the kids' favourites – a high-wire rope course.

Nordic VenturesADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 51 00 17; www.nordicventures.com; on the water, near Park Hotel; adult/child 1095/750kr; hApr–mid-Oct)

Take a guided kayak along the fjords from Voss, or book in for a multinight adventure. They have a floating office on the water near the Park Hotel, as they also run tours out of Gudvangen.

Prestegardsmoen Recreational & Nature ReserveHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

The Prestegardsmoen Recreational and Nature Reserve extends south from Voss Camping in a series of hiking tracks through elm, birch and pine forests with hundreds of species of plants and birds.

zFestivals & Events

Extreme Sports FestivalSPORTS

(Veko; www.ekstremsportveko.com; hJun)

A week long festival at the end of June that combines all manner of extreme sports (skydiving, paragliding and base jumping) with local and international music acts.

Sheep's Head Food FestivalFOOD & DRINK

(www.smalahovesleppet.no; hlate Sep)

Celebrating the local delicacy with plenty of sheep's heads to go round as well as entertainment.

VossajazzMUSIC

(www.vossajazz.no; hlate Mar-early Apr)

An annual innovative jazz, folk and world-music festival.

4Sleeping

Voss VandrerhjemHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 51 20 17; www.vosshostel.com; Evangervegen 68; dm/d/q from 375/1050/1500kr; piW)

This modern hostel sits in a great position on the shores of Lake Vangsvatnet, with views of Mt Gråsida from many of the 40 rooms. The decor is standard-issue hostel – basic rooms and bunk beds – although twins have individual beds. You can rent bikes, canoes and stand-up paddleboards here, and there's a lakeside walkway to town.

Tvinde CampingCAMPGROUND$

(Tvinde; GOOGLE MAP ; %56 51 69 19; www.tvinde.no; off Afdalsvegen; campsites 250kr, cabins from 770kr; hyear-round; pW)

This peaceful campsite has a glorious setting, right beside a tumbling waterfall. There's plenty of room to pitch a tent, and it all feels very sylvan. It's about 12km north of town; the Voss-Sogndal bus runs past the entrance.

Fleischer's HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 52 05 00; www.fleischers.no; Evangervegen; d 1495-2095kr; pWs)

This venerable old hotel was built in 1889, and looks antique, with its striking facade and turrets, supplemented by a modern extension. Unfortunately rooms seem to have got stuck in the olden days, too – expect flock carpets, heavy drapes and old furniture here. Still, it has a quaint charm, and the dining room is majestic.

oStore RingheimB&B$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %954 06 135; www.storeringheim.no; Mølstervegen 44; d/f 1590/3390kr; pW)

This old farmhouse has been impeccably renovated with style, grace and supremely good taste to provide six lovely rooms. Choices include a cosy attic room, an elegant bedroom that was once the kitchen and a romantic bolt-hole in the old house that has its own stone fireplace and a hand-painted box bed straight out of Sleeping Beauty.

5Eating

oTre BrørCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %951 03 832; www.trebror.no; Vangsgata 28; sandwiches & light meals 85-185kr; hcafe 11am-8pm Mon-Wed, 11am-2.30am Thu-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; W)

The Three Brothers is the heart of Voss's social scene, and rightly so – it's everything you want from a small-town cafe. There's super coffee from Oslo's Tim Wendleboe and Ålesund's Jacu Roastery, a great range of microbrewed beers from Voss Brewery down the road, and an on-trend menu of salads, soups, wraps, burgers and Asian-tinged dishes. What's not to like?

It hosts regular gigs and DJ sets on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. There's also a lovely shop full of tempting treats like local jams, chocolate, chilli bites and coffee.

Ringheim KaféNORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 51 13 65; www.ringheimkafe.no; Vangsgata 32; mains 160-220kr; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun)

If you're just after a quick lunchtime elk burger or a bowl of hjortekoru (smoked sausage with potato-and-cabbage stew), this traditional cafe on the main Vangsgata thoroughfare is a reasonable option, but don't go expecting any culinary fireworks. The cakes and desserts are homemade, and generally good.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Voss BryggeriMICROBREWERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %975 40 517; www.vossbryggeri.com; Kytesvegen 396; hby appointment)

This much-respected brewery has made a real splash on the beer scene in recent years, with standout brews such as their Oregonian pale ale, Natabjødn ('Nut Beer'), an English-style brown beer, and traditional Vossaøl, brewed with juniper tea. It's about 6km north of Voss; guided tours are available by arrangement, otherwise you can taste their beers at Tre Brør.

8Information

Voss Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %406 17 700; www.visitvoss.no; Skulegata 14; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun mid-June–Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-June)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Buses stop at the train station, west of the centre. There are frequent services to the following:

Bergen (186kr, two hours)

Flåm (121kr, 1¼ hours)

Sogndal (149kr to 229kr, three hours) via Gudvangen and Aurland.

Train

Voss has fast and efficient train links. At Myrdal, you can connect with the Flamsbåna Railway. Booking ahead can get you some fantastic deals.

Bergen (204kr, one hour, hourly)

Oslo (249kr to 860kr, 5½ to six hours, five daily)

WORTH A TRIP

EVANGER

This tiny village, just off the highway around 12km west of Voss, has a delightful toy-town feel, with a tight grid of restored wooden houses and a gorgeous setting by a lake. There's absolutely zip to do here besides relax or maybe go for a languid row, but it makes a blissfully peaceful stop after a day in Voss during its high-season frenzy.

Patina ( GOOGLE MAP ; %909 57 388; http://patinasimpleliving.blogspot.co.uk; Knute Nelson gata 17; 2-bed apt 1200kr; hcafe & shop 11am-5pm Tue-Sat Jul–mid-Aug, 11am-5pm Sat Sep-Jun) is labour of love dreamt up by three local women – part guesthouse, part cafe and part vintage shop.

Myrkdalen

The main ski resort within reach of Voss, this winter-sports mecca is worth a visit in summer too for its hiking possibilities.

The skiing season runs from mid-November to mid-April and experiences 5m snow falls on average. During summer there's great hiking with several marked high-mountain trails starting at the hotel, a program of nature-based kids' activities, as well as easy access to Voss' roll call of outdoor pursuits.

4Sleeping

oMyrkdalen HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 52 30 40; www.myrkdalen.no/en/myrkdalen-hotel; Myrkdalen; r/apt from 1490/1805kr)

The ski resort revolves around this large, stylish, timber-clad hotel, with great rooms in a retro-modern vibe: funky lampshades, mid-century furniture, and taupes and greys accented by pops of colour. There are three restaurants serving everything from pizza to lamb shanks, salmon and fondue, plus two stylish bars, but the real selling point is outside: epic views of mountains through every window.

8Getting There & Away

Myrkdalen is 26km north of Voss via the E16 and Rv13. There's no public transport.

Stalheim

Pop 200

High above the valley, Stalheim is a place of extraordinary natural beauty with an interesting, lively past. Between 1647 and 1909, Stalheim was a stopping-off point for travellers on the Royal Mail route between Copenhagen, Christiania (Oslo) and Bergen. A road was built for horses and carriages in 1780. The mailmen and their weary steeds rested in Stalheim and changed to fresh horses after climbing up the valley and through the Stalheimskleiva gorge, flanked by the thundering Stalheim and Sivle waterfalls.

Although a modern road winds up through two tunnels from the valley floor, the old mail road (Stalheimskleiva) climbs up at an astonishing 18% gradient. As tour buses, improbably, use this road, it's one way only: you can drive down it, but not up.

1Sights & Activities

Stalheim FolkemuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 52 01 22; Stalheimsvegen 132; adult/child 60kr/free; hon request)

This folk museum, near the Stalheim Hotel, has exhibits of traditional crafts and rustic objects as well as 30 log buildings laid out as a traditional farm. It only opens if there are 10 or more visitors; ask at the hotel for details.

Husmannsplassen NåliHIKING

S

This cotter's farm, along the ledge from Stalheim high above Nærøydalen, was occupied until 1930. The route there (two hours return) is not for the faint-hearted. The path beneath the cliff wall is extremely narrow in parts and there is nothing between you and the valley floor far below; don't even think of walking here after rain.

BrekkedalenHIKING

S

This three-hour return hike leads up into the valley above Stalheim. Locals in the know claim it's the region's prettiest walk, and the views are magnificent. It's a relatively easy way to leave behind the crowds and have this stunning high country all to yourself. The tourist office in Voss has route guides, or ask at Stalheim Hotel for directions.

4Sleeping

Stalheim Fjord og FjellhytterHUT$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 51 28 47; www.stalheim.no; Brekkedalen 16-24; 4–6-person cabins per week 4200-7200kr)

When you really want to get away from it all, these Heidi-style timber cabins are the place to do it. Pine-clad and stocked with simple but serviceable facilities (kitchen, bathroom etc), they're wonderful to just sit and relax in. Flash Harries can upgrade to Standard Plus cabins, which come with Jacuzzi, sauna and even underfloor heating.

oStalheim HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 52 01 22; www.stalheim.com; s/d/superior from 1160/1880/2350kr; hmid-May–mid-Sep; piW)

There's one reason to stay at this sprawling sky-high hotel, and it's not the dated decor. It's all about the view: vast, snowy mountain panoramas unfurl through the windows here, so compelling that you probably won't even notice the rather twee furnishings. The public areas are grand, filled with Norwegian design pieces and historical paintings.

Inevitably the hotel's a stop-off for coach tours, and it can feel swamped in midsummer, especially at meal times. Even if you're not staying, it's worth popping onto the terrace for the incredible outlook straight down Nærøydalen.

8Getting There & Away

Stalheim is about 34km north of Voss. It's reached via a steep turn-off on the E16, heading northeast towards Gudvangen.

To reach Stalheim from Voss, take any bus (110kr, one hour, hourly) towards the towns of Gudvangen and Aurland, but you may have to hike 1.3km up from the main road unless you can persuade the bus driver to make the short detour.

Hardangerfjord

Running from the Atlantic to the steep wall of central Norway's Hardangervidda plateau, Hardangerfjord is classic Norwegian fjord country. There are many beautiful corners, although our picks would take in Eidfjord, Ulvik and Utne, while Folgefonna National Park offers glacier walks and top-level hiking. It's also well known for its many fruit farms, especially apples – Hardanger is sometimes known as the orchard of Norway.

You can easily explore Hardangerfjord from Bergen; www.hardangerfjord.com is a good resource.

Norheimsund

Pop 2224

Tranquil Norheimsund serves as the gateway to Hardangerfjord. There are more beautiful places further into the fjord network, but it's a pretty little town nonetheless. Ferries from here head to Eidfjord, making it a useful staging post if you're travelling on public transport.

1Sights

Hardanger Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

(Hardanger Fartøyvernsenter; GOOGLE MAP ; %474 79 839; www.fartoyvern.no; Sandvenvegen 50; adult/child 100/60kr; h10am-5pm early May-early Sep; c)

This engaging museum keeps alive the local boat-building tradition and is home to old wooden boats, exhibitions on restoration procedures and rope-making, as well as temporary exhibitions. Children can try their hand at building a boat and other maritime skills. The museum also rents out rowboats.

SteinsdalfossenWATERFALL

( GOOGLE MAP )

Just 1km west of Norheimsund along Rv7, this 50m-high waterfall is a far cry from Norway's highest, but it does offer the chance to walk behind the water. It can get overcrowded with tour buses in summer; inexplicably, this is one of the most visited natural sites in Norway.

4Sleeping & Eating

Oddland CampingCABIN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 55 16 86; www.oddlandcamping.no; small/family cabins 700/1450kr; hsmall cabins Apr-Oct, family cabins year-round; W)

There's no space for camping here, but the cute, pale-green cabins are very cosy, and all have fjord views – but there's only one family-sized cabin, so book ahead if you want it. It's a relaxed place next to a fruit farm, with access to the lakeshore and pebbly beach, and a couple of rowboats for hire.

It's about 4km southeast of Norheimsund.

oSandven HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 55 20 88; www.sandvenhotel.no; Kaien 28; s/d from 1180/1440kr; pW)

Located right on the waterfront in the centre of Norheimsund, the atmospheric Sandven Hotel dates from 1857 and has loads of charm, expansive balconies and excellent views from the fjord-facing rooms. Its public spaces are lavish but unusually light, with white-painted floorboards and pale oak boiserie.

Along with the grand dining spaces, there's also a pleasant fjord-side cafe and clubby bar that offers an excellent beer selection. And, yes, it has the requisite celeb room, the Crown Prince suite, where the future king of Norway once stayed.

La FiestaPIZZA$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 55 10 77; Nedstegata 12; pizzas 189-279kr; h3-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun)

This pizza joint is probably the best option in town for an evening meal – nothing groundbreaking, but decent pizzas with a good choice of toppings, and beer on tap.

8Information

Norheimsund Tourist Information ( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 55 31 84; www.visitkvam.no; Steinsdalsfossen; h10am-6pm Jun-Aug, to 4pm Mon-Fri May & Sep) The visitor centre at Steinsdalsfossen also doubles as the main information point for Norheimsund and Kvam.

8Getting There & Away

Bergen is 78km west of Norheimsund via Fv7.

Bus

Skyss Bus 925/930 travels from Bergen to Norheimsund (124kr, 85 minutes, 10 daily). The 7.25am bus arrives in Bergen just in time to catch the 9am ferry onwards to Eidfjord.

Boat

Norled run two daily passenger-only boats from Norheimsund to Eidfjord (316kr, 2¾ hours), stopping at Utne, Lofthus, Kinsarvik and Ulvik en route.

Øystese

Pop 1881

Just around the shoreline from Norheimsund, Øystese has an exceptional art museum, the kind you just don't expect to find in a small fjord-side village. Interesting detours abound, including the constant lure of Hardangerfjord's famed fruit farms.

1Sights

Hardanger SkyspaceSCULPTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.hardangerskyspace.no; Hardangerfjordvegen; adult/child 120/40kr; hsunset)

US light artist James Turrell is known for his fascination with light, and has created a series of 'skyspaces' around the world, which are geometrical viewing chambers with an open roof aperture letting in the light. The Hardanger Skyspace was built in 2011 beside the fjord; it's only open at sunset, and places are limited, so bookings are required.

Kunsthuset KabusoGALLERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %474 79 987; www.kabuso.no; Hardangerfjordvegen 626; incl admission to Ingebrigt Vik Museum adult/child 90kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

The Kunsthuset Kabuso runs a fascinating program that features big-name contemporary artists (Damien Hirst, Matthew Barney and James Turrell have all exhibited here in the past) during most of the year, with summer shows that focus on Norwegian identity and traditional, often local, work.

The museum also has a range of concerts right across the musical spectrum year-round; the small theatre has fantastic acoustics.

Ingebrigt Vik MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %474 79 987; www.kabuso.no; Hardangerfjordvegen 626; incl admission to Kunsthuset Kabuso adult/child 90kr/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Under the direction of the Kunsthuset Kabuso, this permanent collection of the work of Ingebrigt Vik (1867–1927), one of Norway's best-loved sculptors, is housed in a beautiful and unusual early Modernist pavilion designed by Torgeir Alvsaker. His striking pieces crafted in bronze, plaster and marble are on display here.

Steinstø FruktgardFARM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %922 52 637; www.steinsto.no; Steinstø; h11am-6pm Sun-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat)S

A high summer pilgrimage to this farm, a short distance east of Øystese, rewards with strawberries ripe in June and a bounty of raspberries, cherries, plums and apples in July. A cafe serves great apple juice and a rustic apple cake, as well as lefse (flat bread) and waffles. Come on Sunday afternoon for a homey late lunch (mains 165kr).

4Sleeping

Hardangerfjord HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %56 55 63 00; www.hardangerfjord-hotell.no; s/d from 1500/1790kr; pWs)

This large modern hotel on the fjord has views across the water to mountains crowned by the Folgefonna icecap. The 87 rooms have been renovated and are comfortable, if on the bland side. It has a restaurant, heated swimming pool and minigolf, and can arrange other activities.

8Getting There & Away

Øystese is 6km northeast of Norheimsund along Hardangerfjordvegen. There are at least five daily buses between Øystese and Bergen (159kr, 1¾ hours) via Norheimsund.

Ulvik

Pop 1129

Located in the innermost reaches of Hardangerfjord at the heart of Norway's apple-growing region, Ulvik is framed by mountains and affords wonderful views up the fjord. You're in the heart of stunning fjord country dotted with farmsteads and almost too many cycling and hiking opportunities in the surrounding hills. The town is bathed in silence once the tourist boats disappear.

1Sights

Hardanger Saft og SuderfabrikkFARM

(Hardanger Juice & Cider Factory; GOOGLE MAP ; %901 22 835; www.hardangersider.no; Lekve Gard; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Traditional fruit farm with apple and plum orchards, and juice and cider production facilities.

Ulvik Frukt & CidreriFARM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %911 02 215; www.hakastadsider.no; Hakastad; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Sample homemade apple juices and ciders, plus fresh apples and cherries, at this welcoming fruit farm.