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Eidfjord

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Eidfjord is one of the most beautifully sited towns in this part of Norway, dwarfed by sheer mountains and cascading waterfalls. Eidfjord's beauty does, however, come at a price. Although it's only accessible by ferry or spiral tunnels, in summer cruise ships arrive on an almost daily basis, and the town can get overwhelmed.

1Sights

VøringsfossenWATERFALL

( GOOGLE MAP )

At the summit after a steep 20km drive, and where Hardangervidda begins, is the stunning, 182m-high Vøringfoss Waterfall. There are actually numerous waterfalls here, which together are called Vøringsfossen. They plunge over the plateau's rim and down into the canyon, some with a vertiginous drop of 145m, and can be viewed via a series of lookouts along the road.

The best views are from the lookout next to the Fossli Hotel (parking 40kr) or from a number of lookouts reached from the Vøringsfossen Cafeteria back down the valley on the Rv7.

This is one of Norway's most popular natural attractions, with an endless stream of tour buses in summer (the record is 43 buses at any one time). Public buses between Geilo and Odda pass right by the falls.

Viking Burial MoundsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Hæreid; Troll Train 90/40kr; hTroll Train hourly 10am-5.30pm Jun-Aug)

The 350 Viking burial mounds found here make this the largest Iron Age site in western Norway, dating from AD 400 to 1000. The tourist office can point you in their direction and supply a basic map with a marked 90-minute walking trail.

Kjeåsen FarmFARM

( GOOGLE MAP )

Perched 600m above Eidfjord are two farms that were, until 1974, completely inaccessible by road. Until then, residents had no choice but to lug all their goods and supplies up the mountainside – a back-breaking task. (It's said that one of the buildings took 30 years to build.) Nowadays it's mainly visited by tourists for the absolutely breathtaking view.

The turn-off up to the farm starts in Simadal, about 8km from Eidfjord/Rv7. From here, the narrow road leads for another 5km, about half of which is through a tunnel constructed in the late 1970s. Due to the narrowness of the road, traffic is only allowed to travel in each direction once an hour; going up on the hour, and coming down on the half-hour. Kjeåsen's newfound popularity with the tour circuit unfortunately means it's not quite as tranquil as it once was.

The farm complex is now deserted apart from one woman, Bjørg Wiik, who's lived here alone for the last four decades. Although the tunnel is open 24 hours, the latest you should drive up to the farm is 5pm, so as to respect the privacy of Kjeåsen's last remaining inhabitant.

The other option is to climb up to the farm on foot (four hours return), but it's steep and quite perilous, involving at least one rope-bridge; the path begins in Sæ in Simadal with parking by Sima Power Plantask – ask the tourist office for directions. If Kjeåsen Farm has piqued your curiosity, the booklet Kjeåsen in Eidfjord, by Per A Holst, tells the history of the farm and its inhabitants; it's available for 20kr from the Eidfjord tourist office.

SkytjefossenWATERFALL

( GOOGLE MAP )

Plunging almost 300m off the Hardangervidda plateau to the valley floor below, these falls, 12km north of Eidfjord in the Simadalen valley, are among the highest in Norway. To reach the trailhead, drive as far as Tveit and park just after the last house. The hike to the falls is about 3km, and takes 1½ hours there and back including a bit of time at the waterfall.

Hardangervidda NatursenterMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 67 40 00; www.hardangerviddanatursenter.no; Øvre Eidfjord; adult/child 130/65kr; h9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-6pm Apr–mid-Jun & mid-Aug–Oct)

For an all-encompassing overview of the Hardangervidda National Park, this excellent visitor centre should be your first port of call. Interactive exhibits explore the park's flora and fauna, while staff provide copious information on the many activities you can get up to, from hiking to skiing.

2Activities

oFlat EarthADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %476 06 847; www.flatearth.no)

This excellent outdoors company offers pretty much every way of exploring the fjord country that you can think of. The highlight, of course, is the chance to steer a sea kayak down the epic fjord: there's a choice of three-hour trips (adult/child 590/450kr) or full-day expeditions (1150/1000kr) that include a BBQ lunch. Climbing, rafting and mountain biking are also offered.

4Sleeping & Eating

oEidfjord GjestegiveriGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 66 53 46; www.ovre-eidfjord.com; Øvre Eidfjord; huts 400kr, s/d 600/890; hMay-Aug; pW)

Pass through the tunnel to Øvre Eidfjord and you can't miss this handsome guesthouse, an old-fashioned, whitewashed, gabled beauty with a covered porch out front. Inside, the eight double rooms are simple but proper, stocked with vintage furniture; all share a corridor bathroom. There are also a few basic camping-style huts in the front garden, and a super pancake cafe.

Breakfasts are good (the secret's in the homemade bread) and the cafe has around 20 varieties of fantastic, filling, sweet and salty Dutch pancakes, with toppings that range from mountain trout to Hardanger apple compote – kids will absolutely love it. It also has a good range of dried meals for hikers heading out into the wilds.

Note that rates creep up by 200kr or so in summer.

Sæbø CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 66 59 27; www.saebocamping.com; Øvre Eidfjord; campsites for 2 people 230kr, cabins 500-1120kr; hmid-May–mid-Sep; pW)

This spacious and well-equipped lakeside campsite has a pretty location in Måbødalen, just 500m from the Hardangervidda Natursenter. The owners promise freshly baked bread in the mornings and there are canoes for hire.

Fossli HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 66 57 77; www.fossli-hotel.com; Vøringfossen; s/d from 790/1050kr; hMay-Sep; pW)

If you fancy falling asleep to the roar of water, then this venerable hotel occupies a prime position overlooking the Vøringfossen falls. It's a truly stunning spot, and while the rooms look pretty dated (floral curtains and bedspreads, anyone?), they're rather charming in an olde-worlde way – and you'll have the falls to yourself once the buses head for home.

The hotel is run by Erik, a quiet and engaging host with a treasure-trove of stories from the Hardangervidda region, whose great-grandfather built the hotel in the 1890s. Edvard Grieg composed his Opus 66 in the hotel. The hotel is well signposted 1.3km off the Rv7. The hotel's restaurant (mains 190kr to 280kr) serves fine Norwegian dishes, such as lamb, baked salmon and wild deer, and there's a waffle cafe downstairs.

Fjell & Fjord Eidfjord HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 66 52 64; www.effh.no; Lægreidsvegen 7; s/d 1195/1495kr; pW)

If you're after a view of the fjord, then this modern hotel just uphill from Eidfjord's main road can certainly oblige. Rooms are rather bland in style, but here it's all about the scenery outside your window. Downstairs there's a pleasant lounge and restaurant with similarly fine views. Interconnecting rooms make it useful for families.

Vik PensjonatGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 66 51 62; www.vikpensjonat.com; Eidfjord; s/d with shared bathroom 650/1200kr, with private bathroom 1200/1600kr, cabins 800-1450kr; p)

An attractive option if being by the fjord is what matters. With its slate-topped gables and clapboard exterior, it looks every inch the traditional Norwegian guesthouse, but inside it's spruce and modern: uncluttered rooms, wooden floors and the essential fjord views. Rooms with balconies are unsurprisingly the best, or you can go for the riverside cabins in the garden.

The attached cafe is a great spot for lunch or dinner, with reasonable prices (mains 165kr to 240kr) and everything from soups and sandwiches to main dishes such as mountain trout and elk steak.

8Information

Eidfjord Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 67 34 00; www.visiteidfjord.no; Simadalsvegen 3; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri mid-Aug–mid-Jun)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Skyss Bus 991/990 (seven to nine daily Monday to Friday, five to seven on weekends) travels from Øvre Eidfjord to Eidfjord (19kr, 10 minutes), Kinsarvik (93kr, 50 minutes), Lofthus (115kr, one hour) and Odda (195kr, 1½ hours).

In the opposite direction, some buses run to Geilo (242kr, 80 minutes, one or two daily), where you can catch the train on to Bergen.

Car & Motorcycle

The spectacular, and often very windy, Hardanger Bridge (the longest tunnel-to-tunnel suspension bridge in the world), joins Bruravik and Brimnes, just west of Eidford along the Rv7/13.

Odda

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After a few days gallivanting around pretty fjord towns, post-industrial Odda comes as something of a shock. Historically an important iron-smelting town, its industrial past has left Odda looking a little built-up and down-at-heel, but it makes an eminently practical base for exploring Folgefonna National Park and embarking on the trek up to Trolltunga, and there are plenty of activity companies that can help guide your adventures.

1Sights

oTrolltungaVIEWPOINT

( GOOGLE MAP )

A slender spur of rock projecting into the void above Lake Ringedalsvatnet, Trolltunga is one of Norway's most-photographed features, and – along with Preikestolen – one of the country's most popular hiking targets. The Troll's Tongue is an epic sight, but it's a tough hike of 23km, or 10 hours return, from the trailhead at Skjeggedal, 13km northeast of Odda.

The hike is usually doable from late May to early September, depending on snowfall. The trail is well marked from the car park, with distance markers along the route outlining the distance left to the summit – but the ascent is brutal in places, covering a total climb of about 1000m, so make 100% sure you're in adequate shape and have the proper gear before you decide to tackle it. En route, watch out for the Tyssestrengene waterfall (646m).

If you want to tackle the walk earlier in the season, or you'd just prefer to hike with a pro, Trolltunga Active offers guided hikes. You definitely won't be alone at the top – Trolltunga is one of Norway's most Instagrammed sights – but standing on the rock and staring out into thin air is worth every step to the top.

If you continue on a little beyond Trolltunga, you reach another fine vantage point, you reach Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), a smaller version of the much more famous lookout of the same name overlooking Lysefjord, near Stavanger.

In July and August, Tide (www.tide.no) runs an express coach once a day between Tyssedal and the real Preikestolen car park near Stavanger, allowing you to summit both of Norway's most famous climbs in just a couple of days. It costs 695kr one way.

Norwegian Museum for Hydroelectric Power & IndustryMUSEUM

(Tyssedal Hydroelectric Power Station; GOOGLE MAP ; %53 65 00 60; www.nvim.no; Naustbakken 7, Tyssedal; adult/child 90kr/free; h10am-5pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-3pm Tue-Fri Sep–mid-May)

A tour around a hydroelectric power station might not sound that promising, but this is one industrial landmark that's worth a detour. The Tysso 1 power plant was constructed between 1906 and 1918 by Thorvald Astrup, who blended classical European architecture with austere, functionalist lines. It's a striking monument to industrial ambition, and can be explored on a guided tour.

2Activities

For hikes of up to six hours around town, pick up the helpful brochure Hikes in Odda, or the more detailed Hiking and Biking – Odda, Røldal, Seljestad, Tyssedal from the tourist office.

Trolltunga ActiveOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %908 24 572; www.trolltunga-active.com)

This excellent outdoors company offers a huge range of high-thrill activities around Odda. Their staple is a guided hike up Trolltunga (900kr), which is also available in a sunrise- or sunset-watch (2900kr). They also operate a heart-in-the-mouth zipline and, occasionally, an even more heart-in-the-mouth bungee jump.

If hiking's not your thing, they also run kayaking, mountain-biking and rafting trips, as well as speedboat rides and an overnight wilderness camp.

4Sleeping

Odda CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %413 21 610; www.oddacamping.no; Eide; tent/caravan sites 150/160kr, cabins 590-1790kr; hmid-May–Aug; W)

A selection of campsites, rooms and huts are on offer here, in a pleasant location on the shores of Sandvinvatnet lake, a 20-minute uphill walk south of the town centre, a distance of about 1km.

Trolltunga HotelGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %55 09 28 00; www.trolltungahotel.no; Vasstun 1; dm 450kr, s 820-1105kr, d 1045-1570kr, tr 1475kr; pW)

You could do way worse than this simple but proper hotel, which offers a full room range: dorms, singles, doubles and triples, all attractively finished in fjord-blue tones, with touches like bedside tables made from logs and little framed pictures on the walls. It's definitely worth upgrading to the Petite Lofts and Double Plus rooms for the stunning lake views.

Note that some rooms share bathrooms.

There are good evening meals available from 5pm in the restaurant (mains from 189kr).

Tyssedal HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 64 00 00; www.tyssedalhotel.no; Tyssedal; s 1190-1290kr, d 1690-2290kr, f 2490-3390kr; pW)

Built in 1913, the art deco Tyssedal Hotel has terrific rooms with parquet floors and stylish fittings. Norwegian ghosts seem to have a penchant for hotels – here Eidfjord artist Nils Bergslien 'visits' the ground and 3rd floors; his earthly legacy, some fantastic fairy-tale and Hardangerfjord landscape paintings, also grace the hotel.

The restaurant is Odda's best, serving mainly Norwegian staples (mains 199kr to 329kr).

8Information

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 65 40 05; www.visitodda.com; Torget 2; h9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours May & Sep)

8Getting There & Away

Odda is 70km south of Eidfjord on Rv13.

Skyss Bus 991/990 (seven to nine daily Monday to Friday, five to seven on weekends) travels to Eidfjord (195kr, 1½ hours) and Voss (207kr, two hours).

For travel to Oslo, take the Nor-Way Haukeliekspressen 930 bus (477kr, three daily, seven hours). Change at Seljestad.

Rosendal

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Separated from the rest of Hardangerfjord by high mountains and the Folgefonna National Park, Rosendal sits picturesquely by the fjord with a close backdrop of high hills. Access to the national park is easier from Odda and Jondal, but Rosendal has a good national park centre and is a worthwhile destination in its own right.

1Sights

Baroniet RosendalHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 48 29 99; www.baroniet.no; Rosendal; admission with guided tour adult/child 150/50kr, gardens only 75/25kr; h10am-5pm Jul–mid-Aug, 11am-4pm mid-May–Jul & mid-Aug–mid-Sep)

Norway's only baronial mansion dates back to 1665 and sits on a gentle rise above the town. The period interiors include a collection of tapestries, an intact library and beautiful examples of Meissen and Royal Danish porcelain. Outside there is a stunning Renaissance rose garden. Admission to the manor includes a guided tour, and in summer there are evening concerts.

To make a day of it, stop in for lunch at the delightful restored greenhouse (mains 179kr to 289kr). For something really special, you can also book for a three- or five-course feast in the manor's lavish Blue Dining Room.

The manor also offers accommodation in the farm annexe.

SteinparkenPARK

( GOOGLE MAP )S

Signposted off the road running to Baroniet Rosendal, this intriguing little open-air gallery has rock monoliths from the Folgefonna region that have been sculpted and smoothed to stunning effect to show the region's geological diversity; some of it is the work of contemporary artist Bård Breivik. A path runs from an antique sawmill up through the park.

TTours

Rødne Fjord CruiseBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 89 52 70; www.rodne.no; Skalafjæro; adult/child 870/440kr)

This ferry company offers a daily cruise from Bergen, including a visit to Baroniet Rosendal and a two-course lunch at the greenhouse restaurant.

On weekdays, the ferry departs Bergen at 8.50am and arrives at Rosendal at 10.45am, returning at 2.25pm for arrival at 4.20pm. On weekends, it's 11am from Bergen arriving at 12.55pm, returning at 4.35pm and arriving at 6pm.

zFestivals & Events

Rosendal Mat & KunstfestivalFOOD & DRINK

(Rosendal Food & Art Festival; www.rosendalmatogkunstfestival.no; hearly–mid-Jul)

A local arts and food festival and market, held in even-numbered years.

WORTH A TRIP

AROUND ROSENDAL

Sundal

At Sundal, 4km west of the tunnel, take the road up the Sundal valley (driveable for 1km), then walk 2km on a good track to lake Bondhusvatnet, where there's a wonderful view of the glacier Bondhusbreen. This is also a trail head for some fine hikes.

Uskedalen

In Uskedalen, 14km west of Rosendal, there's an extraordinary rock-slab mountain, Ulvenåso (1247m), offering some of the best rock climbing in Norway; contact the tourist office in Rosendal for details.

Møsevatnet

One of the prettiest (and quietest) roads in this part of Norway climbs up to the dam at Møsevatnet, from where there are good views to one of the glacier arms of the Folgefonna icecap. Take the Rv48 south of Rosendal and turn off to the southwest at Dimmelsvik; the road is signposted to Fjellhaugen, Matre and Åkra. From the road junction that signposts Matre and Åkra to the right, follow the signs left to Blådal and the winter-only Fjellhaugen Skisenter; later ignore the signs to the ski centre. From this road junction, the narrow but well-paved road climbs up through some glorious wooded, rocky hills, studded with lakes and dams.

4Sleeping

Sundal CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 48 41 86; www.sundalcamping.no; Sunndalsvegen 641; campsites for 2 adults 190kr, cabins 480-680kr; pW)

Rosendal hasn't got its own campsite, so the next best thing is this pleasant site in Sundal, 28km northeast. If you've stayed on a Norwegian campsite before, you know the drill: small, medium and large huts, plus mixed tent-and-caravan camping.

Rosendal TuristhotellGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 47 36 66; www.rosendalturisthotell.no; Skålagato 17; s/d with shared bathroom from 850/990kr; pW)

Opposite the quay, this handsome house dates from 1887, and it's straight off a Norwegian postcard – all gables, balconies and clapboard cladding, framed against the mountains. But inside it's surprisingly modern: rooms are light and white, with careful furniture choices, antique beds and rustic textiles, although all have to share a bathroom. Corner rooms have both space and views.

Baroniet RosendalFARMSTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 48 29 99; www.baroniet.no; Rosendal; s/d with shared bathroom 700/980kr; hMay-Aug; p)

Just outside the grounds of the Baroniet Rosendal, this rambling farmhouse has attractive rooms with wrought-iron bedsteads and shared bathrooms. Dinner is available and is served in the farmhouse's large kitchen; the three-course menu (490kr) changes daily and utilises fruit, vegetables and herbs from the garden.

5Eating

Martha MeidellNORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 47 36 66; Rosendal Touristhotel; lunch dishes 169-189kr, mains 255-325kr; hlunch 1-4pm, dinner 7-10pm)

You'll struggle to find dinner in Rosendal, so be glad there's a great restaurant at the Rosendal Turisthotell. The menu changes regularly, but fish, meat and game, partnered with locally grown fruit and veg, all feature heavily. There are usually a couple of mains options for dinner, with a simpler lunch menu of meatballs, fish quenelles and the like.

Påfyll SnikkerietNORWEGIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %414 06 991; www.snikkeriet.no; mains 150-220kr; hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat Easter-Aug)

Snikkeriet is known for its well-priced home-cooked Norwegian meals, including fjord trout and local sausages. It also hosts popular evening gigs.

8Information

Rosendal Tourist Office & Folgefonna National Park Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %53 48 42 80; www.visitsunnhordland.no; Skålakaien; h10am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-3pm May & Sep)

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Rødne Fjord Cruise runs a daily return service with lunch and tour from Bergen.

Bus

Bus 770 (47kr, 1 hour, six daily) runs to Odda via Sunndal.

Car & Motorcycle

Rosendal can be reached via an 11km-long road tunnel (car 90kr, free midnight to 6am) under the icefield from Odda; Rosendal is 32km along the coast from the tunnel entrance/exit. There is also a tunnel connection from Jondal.

If you're heading south towards Haugesund or Stavanger, the E39 is the fastest route and includes the Rannavik–Skjersholmane ferry (car with driver 167kr). However, the route via the Utåker–Skånevik ferry (115kr) is cheaper.

Haugalandet

North and east of Stavanger lies a region of low-lying hills and coastal inlets and islands that are reminiscent of the northern Scottish isles. Happy Haugesund is the regional capital.

The region carries huge historical significance for Norwegians. It was in the nearby Hafrsfjord that the decisive battle took place in 872 and Norway was first unified. As such, the area bills itself as 'Norway's Birthplace'.

Haugesund

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The North Sea port of Haugesund lies beyond the well-trodden west coast routes. It was historically an important herring fishing port, as well as a safe harbour for ships travelling up and down the sound. These days, like many west coast towns, it's switched its focus to the petroleum industry, but don't let that deter you from a visit – it's an attractive, lively town, with most of the interest revolving around the harbourside. There are some good bars and restaurants to investigate down by the waterfront, and lovely Karmøy island is only a short trip away.

1Sights

UtsiraISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP )

Around 18km west of Haugesund, the tiny island of Utsira barely covers 6 sq km and is home to just 235 people, but its size belies its reputation in the twitching world. It's a birdwatching hot spot, with more than 310 species observed here – twitchers travel from all across Europe, especially during the migration seasons. A ferry (www.rutebaatenutsira.no; adult/child single 79/40kr) runs daily from Haugesund harbour.

HaraldshaugenMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; Haraldshaugvegen)

The burial site of Viking King Harald Fairhair, the first king of a unified Norway, is 1.5km north of Haugesund. The obelisk memorial, erected in 1872, commemorates the decisive 872 Battle of Hafrsfjord, which effectively led to Harald's conquest of western Norway.

Marilyn Monroe MemorialMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP )

Bizarrely, Haugesund claims to be the ancestral home of Marilyn Monroe, whose father, a local baker, emigrated from here to the USA. This monument on the quay, next to the Scandic Maritim Hotel, is suitably coquettish, if not a great likeness. It commemorates the 30th anniversary of her death in 1962.

TTours

The tourist office organises a comprehensive range of tours, from a guided walk around the town hall, to coastal boat trips to view historic lighthouses and visit remote island communities.

Ravnafloke RIB Island TourBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 80 43 98; www.ravnafloke.no; Smedasundet 77; 540kr per person)

This is a thrilling way to explore the coastline, islands and lighthouses around Haugesund – at high speed in an inflatable rigid-hulled inflatable boat (RIB). There's a 12-person minimum to run the tours: ask at the tourist office or give them a call to see when the next tour you can join is.

zFestivals & Events

Silda JazzMUSIC

(Haugesund International Jazz Festival; www.sildajazz.no; hearly–mid-Aug)

Well-respected music festival with international jazz, soul, folk and indie acts.

Norwegian International Film FestivalFILM

(www.filmweb.no/filmfestivalen; hmid–late Aug)

Norway's major film festival, considered to be the Nordic Cannes.

4Sleeping

oClarion Collection Hotel BankenDESIGN HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 70 00 30; www.nordicchoicehotels.com; Strandgata 161; s 960kr, d 1190-1690kr, ste 1990kr; W)

This is, hands-down, the best place to stay in Haugesund by some margin. In a grand, turn-of-the-century stone building, rooms here are elegant, spacious and comfortable: wooden floors and super views across Smedasunden give it a boutiquey feel, even if it is largely aimed at business travellers. Aim for one of the deluxe doubles, with sloping harbour-view skylights.

Scandic Maritim HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 86 30 00; www.hotelmaritim.no; Åsbygaten 3; s 875-1175kr, d 1175-1575kr, f 1325-2500kr; pW)

This sprawling Scandic has one huge selling point: it's got the best spot of any hotel in town, right by the harbour and its haul of lively bars and restaurants. It's not the most beautiful structure, but rooms are pleasant, with maritime colours and glassed-in balconies that can be sealed in high winds.

Scandic HaugesundHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %21 61 41 00; www.scandichotels.com; Kirkegata 166; r 1199-1699kr; W)

A reliable, glass-fronted hotel that's largely frequented by corporate travellers, but that doesn't make it any less comfortable. Rooms are from the standard Scandic mould: sleek, uncluttered and generic, but the bathrooms are good, and upper floors have views over town.

5Eating

Brasserie BrakstadGASTROPUB$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 70 00 50; www.brasseriebrakstad.no; Kaigata 2; lunch mains 119-295kr, dinner mains 245-335kr; h11am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-1.30am Sat, 1-11pm Sun)

The pick of the places to eat along the harbourfront is this groovy gastropub, with an industrial, bare-brick interior and lots of tables lined up along the quay just in case the sun shines. It's a great bet for no-fuss gastropub grub: big chunky pepper steaks, bowls of mussels and baked salmon with roasted veg.

Lothes Mat & VinhusBURGERS$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 71 22 01; www.lothesmat.no; Skippergata 4; 3-course menu 585kr; h6-10pm Tue-Sat)

Tucked up in a little space just off the waterfront, this wood-panelled restaurant is an old Haugesund favourite for solid Norwegian cuisine – not least thanks to its sweet terrace overlooking the harbour. it also has a more casual space next door, Himla Godt, where you get burgers, grilled meat, fish soup and the like (mains 119kr to 189kr).

To GlassSCANDINAVIAN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 70 74 00; www.toglass.no; Strandgata 169; mains 260-350kr; h3-11pm Mon-Fri, to midnight Sat)

A popular after-work spot for hungry Haugesunds, this small upstairs restaurant is a little bit away from the harbour. It serves hearty food and plates of tapas to share in a swish, upscale space.

6Drinking & Nightlife

TotalenCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %482 48 577; www.totalen.no; Haraldsgata 173; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun)

This cafe has the town's best coffee, with beans from Jacu and delicious scones and biscuits. The interesting shopfront space is, in fact, an old theatre that is used by the Pionerkirken for Sunday services.

SkapåbarWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %472 58 088; www.skapaabar.no; Strandgata 169; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat, 6-10pm Sun)

A busy basement bar, cafe and vintage shop that's a great spot to meet locals while sampling a huge selection of microbrewed beer. Snack on open sandwiches (115kr) made from fresh, organic ingredients. If you need something heartier as the night wears on, dishes from To Glass upstairs will be obligingly delivered to your bar stool.

7Shopping

Amundsen SpesialFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; %916 30 816; www.amundsenspesial.no; Skippergata 5; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

This upmarket deli is filled to the brim with tempting treats: home-smoked salmon, Norwegian cheeses, cured sausages and chocolates and nuts by the tonne – as well as a range of imported products like Italian olive oil and French wine.

8Information

Haugesund Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 01 08 30; www.visithaugesund.no; Strandgata 171; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri Sep-May)

8Getting There & Away

Haugesund is 82km north of Stavanger and 18km south of Bergen. The main E39 connects all three towns, via several car ferries en route.

Air

Haugesund Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 85 79 00; www.avinor.no/en/airport/haugesund-airport; Helganesvegen 350, Karmøy island) is 13km southwest of the city.

SAS and Norwegian both fly regularly from Oslo.

Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) runs direct services to London, Bremen and several other European cities.

Widerøe has flights from Bergen from Monday to Friday, and a daily direct route to Copenhagen.

Flybussen (Flybussen; www.flybussen.no/haugesund; one-way adult 100kr) runs a shuttle bus from the airport that connects with incoming flights.

Boat

Ferries to Utsira Island run daily from Haugesund's quay.

Bus

Stavanger is serviced by an hourly express-bus service (300kr; two hours, 10 minutes) operated by Kystbussen/Nor-Way (www.kystbussen.no).

Car & Motorcycle

There's plenty of on-street parking around Haugesund, which is metered until 3pm; after that, you can park for free.

Travelling south towards Stavanger, you'll need to catch the ferry between Arsvågen and Mortavika (www.fjord1.no; adult/child/car 6/23/185kr; half-hourly).

Karmøy Island

Low-lying Karmøy island is blessed with natural beauty: besides a number of exquisite pale-sand beaches, it crams in forests, open marshes, heather uplands and lakes. Culturally it's no slouch either, with a number of significant historical sites, pretty wooden villages and, in early June, a spirited Viking Festival.

History

The island of Karmøy has strong links with Norway's Viking past. The settlement at Avaldsnes was where Harald Hårfagre (Harald Fairhair) established his royal seat after winning an important battle at Hafrsfjord in AD 872 that effectively laid the foundations for the unified kingdom of Nordvegen. Avaldsnes remained a seat of power until 1450.

1Sights

St Olav's ChurchCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.olavskirken.no; Avaldsnes; adult/child 100/50kr; h1pm-3.30pm Sun-Tue Jun-Aug)

This ancient stone church was built under the reign of King Håkon Håkonsson. Work began in 1250, although it's thought that a much earlier wooden chapel here stood here for many years before. Dedicated to St Olav, it's a fascinating relic of Viking architecture – and an important navigation aid for sailors. Guided tours visit the interior in summer.

The church used to be surrounded by several stone obelisks, although now only one – an impressive 7.2m slab known as the Virgin Mary's Needle – still stands. It's leaning perilously towards the church wall, and legend suggests that when it actually touches the wall the Day of Judgement is at hand.

Nordvegen HistoriesenterMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 81 24 00; www.vikinggarden.no; Avaldsnes; adult/child 110/50kr, 150/50kr Jun-Aug; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Down a short path from the car park for St Olav's Church, this history centre recreates the story of Harald Fairhair and other monarchs of the newly unified Nordvegen from the 10th century onwards. Also nearby, on a tiny forested island is a reconstructed Viking farm – it's great for kids, with staff in period dress.

SkudeneshavnHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP )

The wonderful Skudeneshavn, 37km south of Haugesund, got very rich on the herring trade in the 19th century and is known for its 'Empire-style' wooden houses, winding main street Søragadå and pretty gardens. There's a number of year-round cafes and a tourist office next to the quay.

Avaldsnes Viking FarmFARM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 81 24 00; www.opplevavaldsnes.no; Avaldsnes; adult/child 150/50kr incl Nordvegen Historiesenter; hnoon-4.30pm late Jun–mid-Aug; c)

This living history centre brings Viking culture to life, with a number of reconstructed Viking buildings, and regular displays of handicrafts, metalwork, farming and woodwork during the summer – not to mention guides dressed in full Viking regalia. It's only open in summer.

Visnes GrubeområdeMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %906 02 472; visnes.gruvemuseum@gmail.com; Visnes; adult/child 60kr/free; hnoon-4pm Mon-Fri & Sun Jul–mid-Aug, Sun only late Jun & early Sep)

From 1865 to 1972, the village of Visnes, 4km west of Avaldsnes, was home to the largest and most sophisticated copper mine in Norway. Over its lifetime, more than 4 million tonnes of copper, zinc and sulfur were extracted here – some of which was used to build the Statue of Liberty. This small museum explores the mine's history.

Karmoy Fishery MuseumMUSEUM

(Karmøy Fiskerimuseum; GOOGLE MAP ; %413 34 389; www.fiskerimuseum.net; Vedavågen; adult/child 30/10kr; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sun Jun–mid-Aug)

In Vedavågen, on the island's west coast, this striking museum explores the region's modern fishing industry and also has a saltwater aquarium. It's designed by the architectural firm Snøhetta, who also designed the Oslo Opera House and the Snøhetta viewpoint in Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park.

zFestivals & Events

Viking FestivalCULTURAL

(www.vikingfestivalen.no; hJun)

Once a year, this Viking-themed festival brings feasting, boat races and displays of Viking craft, warfare and culture to the east coast of Avaldsnes. Events centre around the Avaldsnes Viking Farm.

4Sleeping

NorneshusetB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %900 59 007; www.norneshuset.no; Nordnes 7, Skudeneshavn; s/d 990/1190kr)

This B&B has character-filled rooms right by the harbour and very friendly service; it's located in a former warehouse that was shipped from Riga, Latvia, in the 1830s.

8Information

Skudeneshavn Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 85 80 00; www.visitkarmoy.no; Kaigata 5, Torget; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Jun-Aug, open to 5pm in July & Aug)

Avaldsnes Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %52 81 24 00; www.opplevavaldsnes.no; Kong Augvaldsvei 101; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

8Getting There & Away

The E134 runs straight from Haugesund to the island; Avaldsnes is 9km south of town. The southernmost town of Skudeneshavn is another 28km further south, and can be reached via either Rv47 on the west coast, or Rv511 on the east.

Bus

To reach Avaldsnes from central Haugesund, catch bus 209 or 210 (35kr, 22 minutes, half-hourly) from next to the post office. Bus 210 continues further south to Skudeneshavn (1¼ hours) for the same fare.

Stavanger

Pop 123,369

There's a reason this coastal town has been twinned with Houston and Aberdeen: it's sometimes known as Norway's 'Oil City' for its importance in oil exploration in the North Sea since the 1970s (Norway's largest oil company, Statoil, is based here). But while much of the outskirts are modern, you won't find too many skyscrapers – Stavanger's old centre has some of the most beautiful and best-preserved wooden buildings anywhere in Norway, many dating back to the 18th century. It's all very pretty, and in summer the waterfront comes alive in the best port-town style.

What Stavanger's oil boom has brought, however, is suburban sprawl and sky-high prices, even for Norway. It's notorious as one of the country's priciest locations, and finding a bed and a bite comes with a hefty price tag.

Nevertheless, it's a perfect launch pad for exploring nearby Lysefjorden, and for tackling the classic hike to Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock).

Stavanger

1Top Sights

1Canning MuseumA2

2Gamle StavangerA1

3Norsk OljemuseumC1

1Sights

4Archaeology MuseumC5

5BreidablikkA5

6LedaalA4

7Norwegian Children's MuseumC5

8Stavanger DomkirkeC3

9Stavanger Maritime MuseumB2

Stavanger MuseumC5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10GeoparkenD1

11Lysefjord SafariD2

NorledD2

12NuArt Street Art TourB2

13Rødne Fjord CruisesB2

4Sleeping

14Clarion Collection Hotel Skagen BryggeB2

15Comfort Hotel SquareB3

16Darby's InnB5

17Havly HotelC2

18Skansen HotelB1

19Stavanger B&BD4

5Eating

20Bølgen & MoiC1

21DøgnvillC2

22EggetC2

23NB Sørensen's DamskibsexpeditionB2

24Renaa MatbarenC2

Renaa RestaurantenC2

25Renaa Xpress SølvbergetC2

26Torget Fish MarketB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

B.broremann B.barB1

27Bøker & BørstC1

28Café StingC2

29CardinalC2

30Checkpoint CharlieB3

1Sights

Several of Stavanger's museums offer joint admission: one ticket (adult/child 90/50kr) remains valid for the whole day for entry to the Stavanger Museum, the Stavanger Art Museum, the Canning Museum, the Norwegian Children's Museum, Stavanger Maritime Museum (Sjøfartsmuseet; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 27 00; www.museumstavanger.no; Nedre Strandgate 17-19; adult/child 90/50kr; h11am-3pm Tue-Wed & Fri, 11am-7pm Thu, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun), Breidablikk and Ledaal.

oNorsk OljemuseumMUSEUM

(Oil Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.norskolje.museum.no; Kjeringholmen; adult/child 120/60kr; h10am-7pm daily Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun Sep-May; c)

Admittedly, the prospect of an 'oil museum' doesn't sound like the most promising option for an afternoon out. But this state-of-the-art place is well worth visiting – both for its striking, steel-clad architecture and its high-tech displays exploring the history of North Sea oil exploration. Highlights include the world's largest drill bit, simulated rigs, documentary films, archive testimony and a vast hall of oil-platform models. There are also exhibitions on natural history, energy use and climate change.

The museum nicely balances the technical side of oil exploration and extraction, while honouring those whose working lives have been spent in the industry. The latter is done through fascinating archival material that highlights significant moments in the history of Norwegian oil, including coverage of the Alexander L Kielland drilling-rig tragedy in 1980, when 123 oil workers were killed, and the 1972 decision by Norway's parliament that Statoil should be based in Stavanger.

You will spend longer here than you planned, especially if you have kids.

oGamle StavangerAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Gamle (Old) Stavanger, above the western shore of the harbour, is a delight. The Old Town's cobblestone walkways pass between rows of late-18th-century whitewashed wooden houses, all immaculately kept and adorned with cheerful, well-tended flowerboxes. It well rewards an hour or two of ambling.

oCanning MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 27 00; www.museumstavanger.no; Øvre Strandgate 88a; adult/child incl other Stavanger museums 90/50kr; h11am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Don't miss this museum housed in an old cannery: it's one of Stavanger's most entertaining. Before oil, there were sardines, and Stavanger was once home to more than half of Norway's canning factories. By 1922 the city's canneries provided 50% of the town's employment. The exhibits take you through the whole 12-stage process from salting through to threading, smoking, decapitating and packing. Guides are on hand to answer your questions or crank up some of the old machines.

On the first Sunday of every month (plus Tuesday and Thursday from mid-June to mid-August), the fires are lit and you can sample smoked sardines straight from the ovens. An adjoining building houses a cafe and touchingly restored workers' cottages furnished in 1920s (downstairs) and 1960s (upstairs) styles.

Norwegian Children's MuseumMUSEUM

(Norsk Barnemuseum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stavangermuseum.no/en/samling/samling-norsk-barnemuseum; Muségata 16; adult/child 90/50kr incl other Stavanger museums; h10am-4pm; c)

Dragging kids round a museum can be a tough proposition, but this is one place that's designed specifically with them in mind. It traces the changing story of childhood through the ages, with a particular emphasis on toys: there are more than 6000 individual items on display here, from antique train sets and spinning tops through to giant dolls and Meccano sets. Many of them were made at Norway's largest toy factory, Lærdal, just outside Stavanger.

Stavanger KunstmuseumGALLERY

(Stavanger Art Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 27 00; www.stavangerkunstmuseum.no; Henrik Ibsensgate 55; adult/child 90/50kr incl other Stavanger museums; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun)

This museum, 2.5km south of the town centre, displays Norwegian art from the 18th century to the present, including the haunting Gamle Furutrær and other landscape paintings by Stavanger's own Lars Hertervig (1830–1902). There's a large collection for other important Norwegian artists too, such as Frida Hansen, Kitty Kielland and Olaf Lange. There's a small sculpture garden outside.

JernaldergardenMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.jernaldergarden.no; Ullandhaugvn 3, Ullandhaug; adult/child 100/50kr, incl entry to Archaeology Museum; h11am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pm Sun May–mid-Jun & mid-Aug–Oct)

Always wanted to experience life on an Iron Age farm c AD 350–550? Then this living exhibition 4km south of town is as close as you'll ever get. Staff in period dress greet you with cakes cooked over the hearth, and you can watch displays of farming, food preparation, tanning, handicrafts and so on. It's informative and fun.

Stavanger DomkirkeCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Håkon VIIs gate; 30kr; h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9am-4pm May-Jun & Sep, shorter hours rest of year)

This beautiful church is an impressive but understated medieval stone cathedral dating from approximately 1125; it was extensively renovated following a fire in 1272 and contains traces of Gothic, baroque, Romanesque and Anglo-Norman influences. Despite restoration in the 1860s and in 1940, and the stripping of some features during the Reformation, the cathedral is, by some accounts, Norway's oldest medieval cathedral still in its original form.

Its interior, with wonderful stone columns, tapestries, elaborate baroque pulpit and stained-glass window depicting the main events of the Christian calendar, is moving.

Stavanger MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 27 00; www.museumstavanger.no; Muségata 16; adult/child 90/50kr incl other Stavanger museums; h10am-4pm daily)

Stavanger's main museum was founded in the 19th century, and it's a typically wide-ranging affair, encompassing everything from Stavanger's history to Viking culture and a vast array of spooky stuffed animals in the natural history section. It's in a huge, rather gloomy building on Muségata, which was renovated in 2017 to accommodate the Norwegian Children's Museum.

Archaeology MuseumMUSEUM

(Arkeologisk Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 60 00; www.am.uis.no; Peder Klows gate 30a; adult/child 50/20kr; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 11am-3pm Wed-Sat, to 8pm Tue Sep-May; c)

This museum traces 11,000 years of human history, including the Viking Age. Exhibits include skeletons, tools, a rune stone and a description of the symbiosis between prehistoric humans and their environment. There's a full program of activities for kids (eg treasure hunts and wandering Vikings) in summer.

BreidablikkHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 27 00; www.breidablikkmuseum.no; Eiganesveien 40a; adult/child 90/50kr; h10am-4pm Sat-Thu)

This opulent manor was constructed for the merchant shipowner Lars Berentsen. Its authentic late-19th-century interiors include old farming implements, books and decorative objects.

LedaalHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 27 00; www.ledaalmuseum.no; Eiganesveien 45; adult/child 90/50kr incl other Stavanger museums; h10am-4pm Sat-Thu)

The empire-style Ledaal was constructed between 1799 and 1803 for wealthy merchant shipowner Gabriel Schanche Kielland. Recently restored, and featuring unusual antique furniture, it serves as the local royal residence and summer home.

WORTH A TRIP

CITY BEACHES

A 20-minute drive south of Stavanger, a number of soft-sand beaches stretch down the coast. Backed by sea-grass spiked dunes and dotted with wooden holiday shacks, they are all incredibly atmospheric, if often on the fresh side. Sola sits right near the airport, and has parking and a kiosk, along with the historic Sola Strand Hotel. Further along, Hellestø and Bybergsanden form a gorgeous peaceful continuum: perfect for bracing walks whatever the weather, or a shallows frolic in summer.

2Activities

Stavanger is a great launch pad for adventures in Lysefjord. Boat cruises and sightseeing trips leave from the town's main Fiskespiren Quay.

NuArt Street Art TourTOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.streetarttours.no; adult/child 150kr/free; h1pm)

These walking tours explore 15 years of the NuArt festival, and explore some of the key street-art murals and more hidden works dotted around Stavanger. They last 90 minutes, and can be booked online or through the Stavanger tourist office. The meeting point is on Nedre Strandgate.

GeoparkenPLAYGROUND

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Norsk Oljemuseum; h10am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun Sep-May)F

Children of all ages will enjoy Geoparken, a playground fashioned from oil-exploration equipment at the Norsk Oljemuseum.

TTours

Guide CompanietWALKING

(%51 85 09 20; www.guidecompaniet.no; 2hr tour adult 450kr)

Guide Companiet tours leave from outside the tourist office and cover the cathedral, old Stavanger and the listed wharf houses.

zFestivals & Events

NuArtART

(www.nuartfestival.no; hearly Sep)

International street-art festival with exhibitions, tours and live events.

NuMusicMUSIC

(www.numusic.no; hearly Sep)

Long-running electronic music festival with big names and interesting, intimate venues.

International Chamber Music FestivalMUSIC

(www.icmf.no; hearly Aug)

Well-respected classical-music festival, with unusual venues and interesting programming.

May Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(www.maijazz.no; hearly May)

Serious jazz acts, with at least a couple of international legends each year.

Stavanger VinfestWINE

(www.stavangervinfest.no; hmid-Apr)

A week long wine celebration at the city's best restaurants.

GladmatFOOD & DRINK

(www.gladmat.no; hmid-Jul)

Reportedly Scandinavia's largest food festival.

4Sleeping

This is an oil city and prices soar on weekdays, plus it's not uncommon for every bed in town to be occupied. That said, prices drop and availability returns on weekends and during high summer. Do, however, be sure to avoid the end of August in even-numbered years, when the Offshore Northern Seas Foundation (ONS) show entirely takes over the town.

The tourist office website has a full list of small B&Bs in and around Stavanger, though these, too, are utilised by conference goers – book ahead when you can.

Mosvangen CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 53 29 71; www.stavangercamping.no; Tjensvoll 1b; campsites 150-250kr, huts 400-600kr; pWs)

About 3km south of Stavanger on the road to Ullandhaugveien, this is a fine campsite that feels a long way from the city. Grassy campsites and a selection of two- and four-bed huts (none of which are en suite) cover most bases, and it's all set among lots of greenery.

oThompsons B&BB&B$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 52 13 29; www.thompsons-bed-and-breakfast.com; Muségata 79; s/d with shared bathroom 400/500kr; p)

You won't find a bigger bargain in Stavanger than this homely B&B. Housed in a 1910 villa in a peaceful residential area, this four-bed B&B has a home-away-from-home vibe engendered by the warm and welcoming owner, Sissel Thompson. Rooms are cosy and comfortable, and the traditional Norwegian breakfast, taken around the downstairs dining table, is generous.

Comfort Hotel SquareHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 56 80 00; www.nordicchoicehotels.no; Løkkeveien 41; s 799kr, d 999-1499kr; aW)

It's part of a massive chain, yes, but this place in Gamle Stavanger offers more individuality than most. Outside, a wavy, wooden facade and a super roof terrace; inside, colourful rooms, exposed concrete and giant wall murals. Rates drop at weekends (often half-price compared to mid-week), and include breakfast. You can sleep in on Sundays and check out by 6pm.

Skansen HotelHOTEL, GUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 93 85 00; www.skansenhotel.no; Skansegata 7; r Mon-Thu 995kr, Fri-Sun 770kr)

This hotel is the only budget option in the city centre. Rooms are spartan but clean and there are a few pleasing extras such as tea- and coffee-making facilities and complimentary Norwegian sweets. There's also a beer garden out the back and a watering hole, locals' favourite B.broremann B.bar, downstairs.

oDarby's InnB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %476 25 248; www.darbysbb.com; Oscars gate 18; r 1180-1280kr; paW)

The two front rooms at this understated, opulent B&B might be Stavanger's nicest, even without a sea view. Traditional interiors in this historic house combine dark wood with antique furniture, paintings, Persian rugs and a baby grand in the lounge and dining room. The large guest rooms are simpler but still have luxury linen, plump cushions and suitably heavy curtains.

Havly HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 93 90 00; www.havly-hotell.no; Valberggata 1; s/d 1030/1390kr; W)

A little bit off the main harbour drag, this business-focused, Best Western–owned place is a cut above your usual chain hotel. Looking rather like a cruise ship seen from the side, with its uniform square windows and white-clad facade, its rooms are spacious and well appointed, if a little boring and businessy.

Stavanger B&BB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 56 25 00; www.stavangerbedandbreakfast.no; Vikedalsgata 1a; s 690-790kr, d 790-890kr; pW)

This reasonably-priced minihotel makes a change to the generic chain hotels. It's pretty basic – decor is spartan, and some of the rooms are very small (especially the singles, which have showers and sinks squeezed in beside the beds). Rates include breakfast, and free coffee, tea and waffles are served nightly.

Sola Strand HotelRESORT$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 94 30 00; www.sola-strandhotel.no; Axel Lunds veg 27, Sola; r from 1460kr; aWs)

Dating back to 1914, this family-oriented beachside hotel overlooks the sand dunes at Sola beach and offers 135 bedrooms, nearly all of which have fine sea views. Rooms are a mixed bag, but they're mostly modern with fairly generic, chain-style furniture. But extra treats like the lovely Nordsjøbadet Spa and a great restaurant make it worth a look for beach-lovers.

Unfortunately the proximity of Stavanger Airport tends to spoil the peace a bit.

Clarion Collection Hotel Skagen BryggeHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 85 00 00; www.nordicchoicehotels.com; Skagenkaien 30; r Mon-Fri 2010-2990kr, Sat & Sun 1290-1910kr; aW)

Built to resemble a modern take on a row of harbour townhouses, this swish number is the preferred choice of overnighting oil execs. It's quietly luxurious, with large, water-view rooms, plush turquoise-velour chairs and tasteful tones of cappuccino and chocolate. There's a gym, free afternoon cakes and waffles, and a nice lounge. Rates almost halve at weekends.

5Eating

oRenaa Xpress SølvbergetNORWEGIAN$$

(Stavanger Kulturhus; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 55 11 11; www.restaurantrenaa.no; Sølvberggata 2; panini 89-98kr, salads 170kr, pizzas 180-199kr; h10am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun)

One of three Renaa restaurants in Stavanger, this upmarket cafe pretty much corners the lunchtime market. Go for the daily soup deal, tuck into a huge salad, enjoy a panino topped with Parmaskinke (Parma ham) or røkelaks (smoked salmon), or order a wood-fired, wild-yeasted pizza (available from 3pm). Needless to say, the cake, pastries and coffee are delicious, too.

Queues can be long at lunchtime.

oRenaa MatbarenINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 55 11 11; www.restaurantrenaa.no; Breitorget 6, enter from Bakkegata; small dishes 59-125kr, mains 165-395kr; h4pm-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun)

Run by top chef Sven Erik Renaa, this smart bistro offers a taste of his food at (reasonably) affordable prices. The menu is classic – mussels in beer, rib-eye with rosemary fries, squid with fennel and shallots, all with a Nordic twist. The glass and wood feels uber-Scandi, and the art collection is stellar (yes, that's an Antony Gormley statue).

DøgnvillBURGERS$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 89 10 00; www.dognvillburger.no; Skagen 13; burgers 139-199kr; h11am-11pm Mon-Wed, 11am-midnight Thu-Sat, noon-11pm Sun; v)S

The hot spot for Stavanger's hipsters (and everyone else, in fact), this slinky burger joint does everything right – from its artisan buns through to its locally sourced meats, cheeses and salads. Go for a Classic, spice things up with BBQ sauce or chipotle, add blue cheese or taleggio, or go veggie with baked beetroot or smoked aubergine and Portobello mushroom. Mmm.

NB Sørensen's DamskibsexpeditionNORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 38 00; www.herlige-stavanger.no; Skagen 26; mains 149-295kr; h4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu & Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 1-11pm Sun)

Maritime heritage comes to the fore at this fun, friendly venue, one of copious options along the waterfront. It's covered in nautical memorabilia, and the menu encompasses fish, steaks, burgers, grills and salads, plus a daily traditional Norwegian dish (169kr) served until 7pm. More sophisticated dining is available at Andre Etage on the 1st floor.

Bølgen & MoiNORWEGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 93 93 51; www.bolgenogmoi.no; Kjerringholmen, Norsk Oljemuseum; lunch mains 189-239kr, dinner mains 229-369kr; h11am-4pm Mon, noon-9.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Attached to the Oil Museum, this is a reliable bet for staples like pizzas, burgers, salads and mussels, as well as a seasonally driven set menus in the evening. Glass windows over the water and swift service are all positives, even if it is part of a big national restaurant chain.

oEggetBISTRO$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %984 07 700; Steinkargata 23; dishes from 800kr; h6-11pm Tue-Sat)

In a clapboard building off Steinkargata, this ramshackle, rough-and-ready eatery is small in size but strong on ambition: the food is modern, creative and bang on trend, with an emphasis on freshness, seasonality and Asian-inspired flavours. There's no set menu; dishes are chalked above the bar, from wild trout to kimchi, braised ribs or Asian slaws. The only drawback? It's pricey.

Renaa RestaurantenNORWEGIAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 55 11 11; www.restaurantrenaa.no; Steinkargata 10; tasting menus 1400kr; h6pm-late Tue-Sat)

For a truly exclusive eating experience, head for the flagship restaurant of Michelin-lauded chef Sven Erik Renaa. With just a handful of tables and a limited number of servings, Renaa takes his cue from both place and season; fish, seafood, meat and game are combined with microherbs, foraged ingredients and edible flowers.

Torget Fish MarketSEAFOOD$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rosenkildetorget; hmarket 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, restaurant 11am-9pm Mon-Wed, 11am-midnight Thu-Sat)

Stavanger's small fish market isn't a patch on the Bergen version. Still, you can pick up fresh fish here, and try locally harvested oysters, mussels, clams, lobsters and crabs, and the market restaurant does good fish dishes including a majestic, if eye-wateringly-priced, shellfish platter (1550kr for two people). Even if you're not eating, it's fun to look around.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oBøker & BørstBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 86 04 76; www.bokerogborst.webs.com; Øvre Holmegate 32; h10am-2am)

With all the decorative chic of a well-worn living room – complete with book-lined shelves, retro floor -lamps and old wallpaper – this lovely coffee bar is a fine spot to while away a few hours. There are plenty of beers on tap, plus pub-type snacks and pastries, and a covered courtyard at the back.

Checkpoint CharlieCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 53 22 45; www.checkpoint.no; Nedre Strandgate 5; h8pm-2am)

This venue has been around for 30-odd years, making it older than most of the current regulars. Still, everyone in Stavanger ends up here at some point and has a Checkpoint story to tell. The website lists upcoming local and international live acts (indie to straight-out rock'n'roll) and club nights.

CardinalPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %982 04 200; www.cardinal.no; Skagen 21; h3pm-1.30am Sun-Wed, from noon Thu-Sat)

This trad pub is the choice for craft-beer aficionados – they serve what claims to be Norway's biggest beer selection. You can taste five at once by ordering a 'Planken' (beer flight of five half-pints).

Café StingCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 89 32 84; www.cafesting.no; Valbergjet 3; hnoon-10pm Mon-Wed, noon-midnight Thu & Fri, 11am-midnight Sat, 1-10pm Sun)

A great bet if you want to dodge the harbour hubbub, this old, whitewashed house attracts a more cultured crowd for gigs, jazz nights and exhibitions. There's a small roof terrace overlooking the nearby park.

B.broremann B.barBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %406 36 783; www.broremann.no; Skansegata 7; h6pm-2am Tue-Thu & Sun, 4pm-2am Fri & Sat, closed Mon)

One of Stavanger's best-loved bars, this low-key shopfront place draws a discerning over-30s crowd and, later, local hospitality staff for post-shift beers and cocktails.

8Information

Stavanger Turistforening DNT ( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 84 02 00; www.stf.no; off Muségata; h10am-4pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm Tue & Thu) Information on hiking and mountain huts.

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 85 92 00; www.regionstavanger.com; Strandkaien 61; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat Sep-May) Local information and advice on Lysefjord and Preikestolen.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Stavanger Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 65 80 00; https://avinor.no/en/airport/stavanger-airport) is at Sola, 14km south of the city centre. As well as international airlines, there are a number of domestic-airline services. Seasonal flights are also available to destinations in the UK and Europe.

Norwegian (www.norwegian.com) Flights to Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim.

SAS (www.sas.no) Services to Oslo and Bergen, plus international destinations including London and Aberdeen.

Widerøe (www.wideroe.no) Flies to Bergen, Kristiansand, Sandefjord, Florø and Aberdeen.

Boat

International ferries and boat tours of Lysefjord from Stavanger are available.

Kolumbus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %81 50 01 82; www.kolumbus.no; Verksgata) also runs an express ferry to Lysebotn (adult/child/car 160/80/567kr, one daily on Monday, Wednesday and Friday), as well as car ferries to several other destinations.

Bus

Most services to Oslo change at Kristiansand.

Buses from Stavanger

Destination	Cost (kr)	Time (hr)	Frequency (daily)
Bergen	475	5½	hourly
Haugesund	241	2	hourly
Kristiansand	406	4½	4
Oslo	742-811	9½	3

Car & Motorcycle

Stavanger is about 210km south of Bergen, and 138km south of Haugesund, both via the E39. It's an expensive route when you factor in ferries, road tolls and city tolls.

Train

Most train services to Oslo change at Kristiansand. Note that you can often get much cheaper fares than those quoted by booking a week or more in advance.

8Getting Around

Between early morning and mid-to-late evening, Flybussen ( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 52 26 00; www.flybussen.no/stavanger; adult single/return 120/180kr) runs three or four times an hour between the bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jernbaneven) and the airport at Sola.

Lysefjord

All along the 42km-long Lysefjord (Light Fjord), the granite rock glows with an ethereal light and even on dull days it's offset by almost-luminous mist. This is the favourite fjord of many visitors, and there's no doubt that it has a captivating beauty.

There are two compelling reasons to explore this wonderful place: a cruise along the fjord, or the four-hour hike to the top of Preikestolen, the plunging cliff face that's graced a million postcards from Norway, not to mention as many Instagram posts. Daredevils might also want to brave standing on the Kjeragbolten, a boulder wedged between two sheer cliff faces.

The ferry ride from Stavanger takes you to the fjord head at Lysebotn, where a narrow and much-photographed road corkscrews spectacularly 1000m up towards Sirdal in 27 hairpin bends. From Lysebotn, the road twists up the mountain and on into the Setesdalen region and Oslo.

2Activities

oPreikestolenHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

The sight of people perched on the edge of this extraordinary granite rock formation is one of Norway's emblematic images. Soaring 604m above the fjord, framed by cliffs on three sides, Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) is one of the nation's most remarkable sights. It's a steep, four-hour return hike from Preikestolhytta Vandrerhjem, and is usually accessible from April to September, depending on the snows.

The two-hour, 3.8km trail begins along a steep but well-marked route, then climbs past a series of alternating steep and boggy sections to the final climb across granite slabs and along some windy and exposed cliffs to Preikestolen itself. The steepest sections are at the beginning and in the middle parts of the trail and can be challenging for the unfit. Theoretically it can be done in winter, but it's not advisable due to the likelihood of adverse weather and the more limited options for public transport.

As for many of Norway’s natural attractions, there are no fences or barriers of any kind, and despite the alarming crack where it joins the mountains, it's likely to be around for a few more centuries. While the rock receives over 200,000 visitors a year, there has only been one accidental fatality, in 2013. That said, do take all due care even if other people seemingly don't. For those with vertigo, even watching other people dangling limbs over the abyss can make the heart skip a beat. Rocky trails lead up the mountains behind, offering more wonderful views.

The area also offers several other fabulous walks – the Vatnerindane ridge circuit (two hours), Ulvaskog (three hours), the Refsvatnet circuit (three hours), the summit of Moslifjellet (three hours) and even a two-day hike all the way to Lysebotn – all of which are accessible from the Preikestolhytta car park. For more information on possible routes and DNT huts along the trails, visit the Stavanger Turistforening DNT before setting out from Stavanger.

Fjord ExpeditionKAYAKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %942 75 439; www.fjordexpedition.com; Rådhusgata 7, Jorpeland; 2950kr)

What a way to explore the luminous Lysefjord – in your own kayak, with nothing but silence and nature all around. This outdoors company offers two-day guided trips to seek out some of Lysefjord's wildlife, along with hidden bays and islands that the cruise ships never reach. At night, you camp out in tents or a traditional lavuu (Sami tipi).

Outdoor LifeHIKING

(%97 65 87 04; www.outdoorlifenorway.com; hday hikes per person 1290kr)

Guided hikes to various spots around Lysefjord, including lots of places that are well off the standard Preikestolen trail, as well as expeditions to Kjerag and other locations. Overnight hikes are also available, along with biking and boat trips. They also run winter hiking trips, when the chances are you'll have the rock to yourself – a rare and precious experience.

Lysefjord SafariBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %913 59 132; www.fjordevents.no; speedboat trip 900kr; hMay-Sep)

Cruise too sedate for you? Then these seat-of-the-pants speedboat trips will probably suit you down to the ground. They race from Stavanger all the way into Lysefjord in just a couple of hours. Lifejackets are provided; seasick pills aren't. There are daily trips from Fiskespiren Quay.

KjeragboltenHIKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

You're bound to have seen a photo of this boulder, wedged between two sheer cliffs about 2m apart with a sickening drop below. The 10km, five-hour return hike involves a strenuous 700m ascent from the Øygardsstølen Café car park (parking 30kr), near the highest hairpin bend above Lysebotn.

From mid-May to late August, Tide (http://fjords.tide.no/hikingtour-kjerag) also runs 13½-hour bus–boat–hike return trips to the 'chockstone' Kjeragbolten (adult/child 590/450kr), which can otherwise be difficult to reach. It includes time for the five-hour return hike.

The route trudges up and over three ridges and in places, steep muddy slopes makes for tough going. Once you reach Keragbolten, actually getting down to the boulder involves some tricky manoeuvring, including traversing an exposed loedge on a 1000m-high cliff! From there you can step, or crawl, down onto the rock itself for the ultimate Instagram photo.

LYSEFJORD & PULPIT ROCK PLANNING

Cruises to Lysefjord

Two companies, Rødne Fjord Cruises ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51 89 52 70; www.rodne.no; Skagenkaien 35-37, Stavanger; adult/child/family 490/300/1300kr, Preikestolen boat-and-hike ticket 720kr) and Norled, offer three-hour cruises from Stavanger to Lysefjord. Along the way, sights visited include the Vagabonds’ Cave and the Hengjane waterfall – and look out for mountain goats on the hillsides as you go.

Lysefjord and Pulpit Rock

If you want to hike Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) but don't have your own car, the cheapest option is to book a ticket through Norled ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.norled.no; Lysefjord cruise adult/child/family 450/280/1100kr, Preikestolen boat-and-bus-ticket 320kr) or Tide (www.tide.no). The trip costs 320/150kr per adult/child, including the return fare on the Stavanger–Tau ferry, and the return bus fare between Tau and the trailhead at Preikestolhytta.

Rødne Fjord Cruises runs its own cruise-and-hike excursions (adult 780/500kr); the cruise boat fare to Tau and the bus fare between Tau and Preikestolhytta are included, but you'll need to add on the ferry fare back to Stavanger (adult/child 56/28kr).

Having your own car makes things easier. Catch the Stavanger–Tau ferry from Fiskespiren Quay and follow the Rv13 for 13km to the turn-off for Preikestolhytta Vandrerhjem, another 6km further on. It's a drive of about 1½ hours.

4Sleeping

Lysefjorden Tourist CabinHOSTEL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %948 26 602; www.lysefjordenturisthytte.dnt.no; Lysebotn; dm/q 380/1520kr; hJun-Aug)

Fifty metres from the quay is the former Lyse canteen. Stavanger Hiking Association now offers rooms with shower and toilet, or cheaper accommodation in dormitories. An attached cafe and lounge is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and is licensed for beer and wine. Bed linen and towels can be hired.

oPreikestolen FjellstueLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 74 20 74; www.preikestolenfjellstue.no; Jørpeland; hostel dm/s/d/q 325/530/770/1420kr, lodge s/d 1150/1520kr)

Completely overhauled in recent years, this DNT mountain lodge and hostel at the Preikestolen trailhead means Preikestolen finally has accommodation worthy of its natural splendour. There is a range of accommodation for all budgets, including a well-kept hostel (breakfast and linen included), stylishly simple lodge rooms and family cottages. There's also a cafe for pre- and post-hike meals (mains 98kr to 288kr).

In summer you can even stay in a hammock slung on a roofed dock by the lakeside at their Basecamp's 'water camp'. Canoe or walk there along Refsvatn lake – canoe rental is included in the price and they can be used throughout your stay. Hot breakfasts are prepared on the campfire. It costs 3500kr for up to 10 people, or 2500kr if you're members of the DNT.

Preikestolen CampingCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %481 93 950; www.preikestolencamping.com; Jørpeland; tent sites for car & 2 adults 280kr; hApr-Oct, gates open 7am-10pm)

The closest campsite to Preikestolen is about 1km off the turn-off from the Rv13 on the way to Preikestolen Fjellstue. It's surrounded by forest, is well run and has good facilities, including a shop-restaurant. It's perfect for getting an early start on the crowds, although it's another 5km or so extra before you reach the trailhead.

Kjerag RestaurantCAFE$

(Øygardsstølen; GOOGLE MAP ; %975 11 651; Fv500, Lysebotn; snacks & light meals 79-189kr; h7.30am-8pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

Located at the far eastern end of Lysefjord near the settlement of Lysebotn, this sky-top cafe sits at the end of a series of punishing, veering switchbacks, but affords a quite mind-boggling view over the fjord through its ship's-prow–style windows. The food's basic – sandwiches, salads and snacks – but this is one place you won't regret stopping.

8Information

Lysefjordsenteret ( GOOGLE MAP ; %51 70 31 23; www.lysefjordsenteret.no; Oanes; salmon farm adult/child 60/30kr; hnoon-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, noon-5pm Sun only rest of year) In a fabulous setting north of the ferry terminal at Oanes, with tourist information, salmon farm, restaurant and geological and folk-history exhibits.

For general information on the region, check out www.lysefjordeninfo.no and www.visitlysefjorden.no.

8Getting There & Away

Lysefjord is about 45km from Stavanger via Rv13. There are two options to get there by car – on the direct ferry to Tau from Stavanger, or the more circuitous route via the Solvorn–Oanes ferry.

The small town of Oanes is at the western mouth of the fjord, while Lysebotn is at its eastern end – 46km direct via the fjord ferries.

Boat

The Stavanger–Tau Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tide.no; adult/child 56/28kr, car incl driver 167kr; hevery 40-45min) runs at least once an hour across the fjord from Stavanger to Tau, from where you can head onwards to the Preikestolen trailhead.

The other option is to catch the quicker but more infrequent Solvorn–Oanes Ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lustrabaatane.no; adult/child 40/20kr, car with driver 110kr; h4-8 times daily) on Rv13.

Eidfjord

Kinsarvik

Lofthus

Utne

WORTH A TRIP

JONDAL DRIVE

Odda

Røldal

Folgefonna National Park

Rosendal

WORTH A TRIP

AROUND ROSENDAL

Sundal

Uskedalen

Møsevatnet

Haugalandet

Haugesund

Karmøy Island

History

Stavanger

WORTH A TRIP

CITY BEACHES

Lysefjord

LYSEFJORD & PULPIT ROCK PLANNING

Cruises to Lysefjord

Lysefjord and Pulpit Rock