Trøndelag
Trøndelag
Why Go?
Trøndelag, where Norway begins to narrow and head for the Arctic, may be small but it sure packs a lot in. Trondheim is the centrepiece, a beguiling city brimful of historic architecture, including Nidaros Cathedral, Scandinavia's largest medieval structure. But Trondheim's present is as appealing as its past, with buzzing student life and pretty waterfront restaurants and bars. Not far away to the northeast, and an easy detour from the Arctic Highway, atmospheric Stiklestad is famous as the site of the martyrdom of King Olav (St Olav) and lies at the heart of every Norwegian's sense of national identity. Elsewhere, Trøndelag is quintessential Norway, a region of rumpled hills, stippled with oxblood-coloured farmsteads and ruffled green with wheat and barley. Here, there's always water near at hand, whether sea, lake or incised fjord with fascinating coastal settlements worth lingering over.
When to Go
- Mid–late Jun Winter has retreated, and visitors are relatively few.
- Late Jul Festivities in honour of St Olav in Trondheim and Stiklestad.
- Sep Trondheim has a fresh buzz as its student population returns.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Trøndelag Highlights
1 Nidaros Cathedral Exploring Norway's most sacred building and one of its most handsome.
2 Stiklestad Stepping back to the dawning of Norway at the place where St Olav was martyred.
3 Baklandet Skydsstasjon Crossing Trondheim's Gamle Bybro to eat at this marvellous eatery, then down to Solsiden for a drink.
4 Bymarka Hiking in the wilderness right in Trondheim's backyard.
5 Norveg Learning about coastal life at this stunning multimedia museum in Rørvik.
6 Leka Leaving behind well-tramelled byways and heading offshore to this beautiful island with an intriguing story.
7 Hell Snapping a selfie at the 'Welcome to Hell' sign, which will win gasps back home.
Trondheim
Pop 190,464
With its colourful warehouses, waterways and wooded hills, Trondheim is without doubt one of Norway's most photogenic towns. Norway's third-largest city and its historic capital is a pleasure to explore, with wide streets and a partly pedestrianised heart, some great cafes, restaurants and museums to visit – plus Europe's northernmost Gothic cathedral. Fishing boats putter around the harbour, gulls wheel and screech overhead, and beyond the city's outskirts there's a wealth of wilderness to explore.
History
In AD 997 King Olav Tryggvason moored his longboat alongside a broad sandbank at Nidaros (meaning 'mouth of the River Nid') and established his farm. One plausible theory has it that Leifur Eiríksson (or Leif Ericson as he's usually transcribed in English) visited the king there before setting sail for Iceland and Greenland and possibly becoming the first European to set foot in North America. (If you're from the USA, the Viking ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hurtigrutenkai, Havnegata) staring out to sea near the Hurtigruten quay may seem familiar. That's because he's an exact replica of the Ericson statue in Seattle that commemorates the tens of thousands of Norwegian emigrants to the New World.)
In 1030 another, subsequently more famous, King Olav (Haraldsson) was martyred in battle at Stiklestad, about 90km to the northeast, and later canonised. As the site of Olav's grave, Nidaros became a centre for pilgrims from all over Europe, its bishopric embracing Norway, Orkney, the Isle of Man, the Faroe Islands, Iceland and Greenland. It served as the capital of Norway until 1217, ruling an empire that extended from what is now western Russia to, possibly, the shores of Newfoundland. The cult of St Olav continued until the Reformation in 1537, when Norway was placed under the Lutheran bishopric of Denmark.
After a fire razed most of the city in 1681, Trondheim was redesigned with wide streets. It enjoyed its golden age in the 18th century, when merchants outdid each other in the grandeur of their dwellings. The city's location became key once again in WWII, when German naval forces made it their base for northern Norway, although fortunately the city avoided major damage. Nowadays, Trondheim, with its Norwegian University of Science & Technology and a research institute that employs more than 2000 staff, is the recognised tech capital of Norway.
1Sights
oNidaros DomkirkeCATHEDRAL
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GOOGLE MAP
; 
%73 89 08 00; www.nidarosdomen.no; Kongsgårdsgata; adult/child/family 90/40/220kr, tower 40kr, with Archbishop's Palace & crown jewels 180/90/440kr; 
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, to 5pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)
Nidaros Cathedral is Scandinavia's largest medieval building, and the northernmost Gothic structure in Europe. Outside, the ornately embellished, altar-like west wall has top-to-bottom statues of biblical characters and Norwegian bishops and kings, sculpted in the early 20th century. Several are copies of medieval originals, nowadays housed in the museum. Note the glowing, vibrant colours of the modern stained-glass in the rose window at the west end, a striking contrast to the interior gloom.
The altar sits over the original grave of St Olav, the Viking king who replaced the pagan Nordic religion with Christianity. The original stone cathedral was built in 1153, when Norway became a separate archbishopric. The current transept and chapter house were constructed in 1130–80 and reveal Anglo-Norman influences (many of the craftspeople were brought in from England), while the Gothic choir and ambulatory were completed in the early 14th century. The nave, repeatedly ravaged by fire across the centuries, is mostly a faithful 19th-century reconstruction.
Down in the crypt is a display of medieval carved tombstones (the majority restored from fragments since many headstones were broken up and carted away to be recycled in domestic buildings). Look for one inscribed in English and dedicated to William Miller, Shipmaster, of Dundee, Scotland, who met his end near Trondheim in the 18th century.
You can wander around freely but, between early June and early August, it's worth joining a tour (a 15-minute canter or a more detailed 45-minute visit). Times vary but there are up to four daily in English. Music-lovers may want to time their visit to take in a recital on the church's magnificent (and recently restored) organ.
From mid-June to mid-August, you can climb the 172 steps up the cathedral's tower (40kr) for a great view over the city. There are guided ascents every half-hour from its base in the south transept, with a limit of 20 people per ascent.
oArchbishop's PalaceMUSEUM, HISTORIC BUILDING
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; Kongsgårdsgata; adult/child/family 90/40/220kr, crown jewels 90/40/220kr, with cathedral & crown jewels 180/80/440kr; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)
The 12th-century archbishop's residence (Erkebispegården), commissioned around 1160 and Scandinavia's oldest secular building, is beside the cathedral. In its west wing, you'll find Norway's shimmering crown jewels and its museum. After visiting the well-displayed statues, gargoyles and carvings from the cathedral, drop to the lower level with a selection of the myriad artefacts revealed during the museum's late-1990s construction.
The palace also has an enjoyable 15-minute audiovisual program. If you're visiting Trondheim's cathedral, it's cheaper to buy the combination ticket, which covers admission to all three attractions (archbishop's palace, crown jewels and cathedral).
oStiftsgårdenPALACE
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; www.nkim.no/stiftsgarden; Munkegata 23; adult/child 90/50kr; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Jun-late Aug)
Scandinavia's largest wooden palace, the 140-room late-baroque Stiftsgården, was constructed as a private residence in the late 18th century, at the height of Trondheim's golden age. It is now the official royal residence in Trondheim. Admission is by tour only, every hour on the hour. The publicly accessible garden around the east side (enter via Dronningens gate) is one of Trondheim's loveliest corners.
oRockheimMUSEUM
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; www.rockheim.no; Brattørkaia 14; adult/concession/child 130/100/free; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This terrific museum is devoted to pop and rock music, mainly Norwegian, from the 1950s until yesterday. It's a dockside temple to R&B, where a huge projecting roof featuring Norwegian record covers extends above an equally vast converted warehouse. Within, there's plenty of action and interaction (mix your own hip-hop tape, for example). Home of Rock is on the quayside, very near Pirbadet and the fast-ferry landing stage.
From mid-June to mid-August, there's a free, English-language guided tour of the museum.
National Military MuseumMUSEUM
(Ruskammeret;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 99 52 80; Kongsgårdsgata; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun mid-May–early Sep)
F
In the same courtyard as the Archbishop's Palace, the National Military Museum is full of antique swords, armour and cannons, and recounts the days from 1700 to 1900, when the palace served as a Danish military installation. On the top floor is the Hjemmefront (Home Front) museum, devoted to Trondheim's role in the WWII resistance.
Gamle BybroBRIDGE
(Old Town Bridge; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
There's been a bridge here since 1681, connecting the city with the Kristiansten Fort and guarded at each end by a watch-house (although only one now remains, currently occupied by a kindergarten). The present bridge dates from 1861, and it's a beauty – pedestrianised and clad in planks, it's the best place in town to get that essential shot of Trondheim's riverside warehouses. It's also the quickest way to get over to Bakklandet from the city centre.
Trondheim KunstmuseumGALLERY
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; %73 53 81 80; www.trondheimkunstmuseum.no; Bispegata 7b; adult/child 100/50kr; h10am-4pm Jun-Aug, noon-4pm Tue-Sun Sep-May)
Trondheim's Art Museum, a stone's throw from the cathedral, houses a permanent collection of modern Norwegian and Danish art from 1800 onwards, including a hallway of Munch lithographs. It also runs temporary exhibitions.
SynagogueSYNAGOGUE
(Jødisk Museum;
MAP
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; %401 69 801; www.jodiskemuseum.no/english; Arkitekt Christies gate 1b; museum guided tour adult/child 60/30kr; htours 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm Mon-Fri, 1pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, by appointment rest of year)
Trondheim's synagogue claims to be the world's northernmost. It has a small museum dedicated to the history of the local Jewish community, which was decimated by the Holocaust. Admission is by guided tour. For those with a deeper interest, an information board and map outside shows sites around town with historic links to Trondheim's Jewish community.
Nordenfjeldske KunstindustrimuseumGALLERY
(Museum of Decorative Arts;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 80 89 50; www.nkim.no; Munkegata 5; adult/child 100kr/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Jun-late Aug, 10am-3pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, noon-8pm Thu, noon-4pm Sun late Aug-May)
The permanent collection of this splendid museum exhibits the best of Scandinavian design, including a couple of bijou art-nouveau rooms. A whole floor is devoted to the pioneering works of three acclaimed female artists: the tapestry creations of Hannah Ryggen and Synnøve Anker Aurdal, and the innovative glasswork of Benny Motzfeldt.
VitensenteretMUSEUM
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; www.vitensenteret.com; Kongens gate 1; adult/child/family 95/50/330kr; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun late Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun rest of year; 
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Children especially will enjoy the hands-on experiments at this practical, active centre with over 150 models to choose from.
Ringve Music MuseumMUSEUM
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; %73 87 02 80; www.ringve.no; Lade Allé 60; adult/child 120kr/free; h10am-5pm May-Aug, 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr; 
g3, g4)
The Ringve Museum is Norway's national museum for music and musical instruments. The Russian-born owner was a devoted collector of rare and antique musical instruments, which students demonstrate. You can also browse the old barn with its rich collection of instruments from around the world. The botanic gardens, set within the surrounding 18th-century estate, are a quiet green setting for a stroll. Take bus 3 or 4 and walk up the hill.
King Olav Tryggvason StatueSTATUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Torvet)
The epicentre of town is Torvet, the central square (also spelt 'Torget') with its statue of King Olav Tryggvason atop a column that acts as a huge sundial. The slightly scruffy square is slated for a much-needed overhaul from late 2017.
Olavskirken RuinsRUINS
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; Kongens gate; h10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri, 11am-4pm Sat)F
During excavations for the library on Kongens gate, archaeologists found the ruins of a 12th-century church, thought to be Olavskirken, now visible beneath the courtyard, together with the skeletons of two adults and a child.
Gregorius Kirke Ruins (Sparebanken)RUINS
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; Søndre gate 4; h8.15am-3pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 5pm Thu)F
In the basement of Søndre gate 4 are the ruins of the medieval Gregorius Kirke (Sparebanken), discovered during earlier excavations.
Kristiansten FortFORTRESS
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; Festningsgata; hguided tours noon & 2pm daily Jun-Aug)F
For a bird's-eye view of the city, climb 10 minutes from the Gamle Bybro to Kristiansten Fort, built after Trondheim's great fire of 1681. During WWII the Nazis used it as a prison and execution ground for members of the Norwegian Resistance. The grounds are open year-round at no cost, whenever the flag is raised.
MunkholmenISLAND
(Monks' Island; GOOGLE MAP )
During Trondheim's early years, the islet of Munkholmen, 2km offshore, was the town execution ground. Over the centuries it has been the site of a Benedictine monastery, a prison, a fort and, finally, a customs house. Today it's a popular picnic venue and has the city's best beach. From mid-May to September, ferries (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.trippsbatservice.no; return trip adult/child 90/40kr; h10am-6pm Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours mid-end May & mid-Aug–Sep) leave at least hourly between 10am and 4pm or 6pm from beside the Ravnkloa Fish Market.
HospitalkirkenCHURCH
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; Hospitalsløkka 2-4; hfor church services)
The cobblestone streets immediately west of the centre are lined with mid-19th-century wooden buildings, notably the octagonal 1705 timber church, Hospitalkirken, in the hospital grounds.
Sverresborg Trøndelag FolkemuseumMUSEUM, ARCHITECTURE
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; %73 89 01 00; www.sverresborg.no; Sverresborg Allé 13; adult/5-15yr/under 5 incl guided tour mid-Jun–Aug 155/115kr/free, Sep–mid-Jun 115/95kr/free; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, 10am-3pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun Sep-May; g18, g8)
Three kilometres west of the centre, this folk museum is one of the best of its kind in Norway. The indoor exhibition, Livsbilder (Images of Life), displays artefacts in use over the last 150 years – from clothing to school supplies to bicycles. The rest of the museum is open-air, comprising more than 60 period buildings, adjoining the ruins of King Sverre's castle and giving fine views of the city.
2Activities
Trondheim KajakkKAYAKING
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; %483 38 318; www.trondheimkajakk.no; 2hr tour incl rental per person 400kr, rental per day 400kr; h8am-11pm; g3, 4, 9, 46)
A fine way to get an alternative perspective on Trondheim, these kayak tours paddle from down through the old town along the Nidelven River to where it meets the fjord. Prices vary with the number of people.
Most trips depart from the Tempe football field, on Bostadvegen, about 4km south of the train station. Ask the bus driver to let you off at Valøyvegen. From here it's a two-minute walk to the football field.
Harbour SightseeingBOATING
(Tripps;
MAP
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; %950 82 144; www.trippsbatservice.no; adult/child 170/60kr; hcruises 11am, 12.30pm & 3pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, noon Thu-Sun mid-May–Jun & mid-Aug–Sep)
Tripps runs a one-hour cruise (at 11am) along the estuary of the River Nidelva, with two longer 90-minute versions (at 12.30pm and 3pm) out into the fjord. Departures are from beside the Ravnkloa Fish Market and you buy your ticket at the small kiosk next to the wharf.
PirbadetSWIMMING
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; %73 83 18 00; www.pirbadet.no; Havnegata 12; adult/child 175/150kr; h6.30am-8pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 10am-8pm Tue & Thu, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun late Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)
On the Pirterminalen quay, Pirbadet is Norway's largest indoor water park with a wealth of liquid pleasures, including a wave pool, sauna and 100m water slide.
TRONDHEIM HIKING
Two easy strolls within town are the steep, but short, ascent through the traffic-free lanes of Bakklandet to Kristiansten Fort and the riverbank footpaths beside the Nidelva between Bakke Bru and Gangbrua bridges.
West of town spreads the Bymarka, a gorgeous green woodland area laced with wilderness footpaths and ski trails. Take the Gråkallbanen tram, in itself a lovely scenic ride through the leafy suburbs, from the St Olavsgata stop to Lian. There you can enjoy excellent views over the city and a good swimming lake, Lianvannet.
To the east of Trondheim, Ladestien (the Lade Trail) follows the shoreline of the Lade peninsula, beginning only 1km from the town centre.
TTours
Walking ToursWALKING
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; %73 80 76 60; www.visittrondheim.no; tours 130-2540kr; h2pm daily late Jun–mid-Aug, 2pm Sat rest of year)
In addition to their standard two-hour guided city walk (185kr per person), the tourist office organises a fascinating portfolio of walks, some guided, some self-guided, with themes that range from coffee or music to gourmet-food experiences.
zFestivals & Events
oUKACULTURAL
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; www.uka.no; hOct/Nov)
Trondheim's 25,000 university students stage this three-week celebration, Norway's largest cultural festival. Every other year (in odd-numbered years) in October and November, it's a continuous party with concerts, plays and other festivities based at the round, red Studentersamfundet.
oOlavsfestdageneCULTURAL
(www.olavsfestdagene.no; hJul & Aug)
In honour of St Olav and held during the week around his saint's day, 29 July. There's a medieval market and a rich program of classical music, folk, pop and jazz.
oNidaros Blues FestivalMUSIC
(www.nidarosbluesfestival.com; hApr)
A who's who of the international blues scene with local acts as well.
PstereoMUSIC
(www.pstereo.net; hlate Aug)
Major pop and rock festival over a weekend in late August, with up to 300 performers descending on Trondheim.
KosmoramaFILM
(www.kosmorama.no; hMar-early May)
Trondheim's international film festival occupies an intensive week in spring, anytime between March and early May.
4Sleeping
oPensjonat JarlenGUESTHOUSE$
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; %73 51 32 18; www.jarlen.no; Kongens gate 40; s/d/tr 540/690/960kr, cat or dog 100kr; 
W)
Price, convenience and value for money are a winning combination here. After a 2010 overhaul, the rooms at this central spot have a contemporary look and are outstanding, although some bathrooms could do with a spruce-up. Some rooms have polished floorboards, others carpet, and most have a hot plate and fridge thrown in.
Flakk CampingCAMPGROUND$
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; %940 54 685; www.flakk-camping.no; car/caravan site 240/330kr, cabins 525-695kr; hMay-Aug; 
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Sitting right beside Trondheimfjord (there's minimal disturbance from the nearby ferry point), this welcoming campground is about 10km from the city centre. Take Rv715 from Trondheim. It also has tents for rent if you don't have your own and don't fancy a cabin.
Singsaker SommerhotelHOTEL$
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; %73 89 31 00; www.sommerhotell.singsaker.no; Rogertsgata 1; dm/s/d 300/880/950kr, s/d with shared bathroom 535/745kr; hmid-Jun–mid-Aug; pW)
On a grassy knoll in a quiet residential neighbourhood, this imposing building was originally built as a club for occupying German officers. It represents great value. Bus 63 from the train station passes by. If driving, take Klostergata eastwards from the Studentersamfundet and follow the signs. The free parking is a winner and the rooms are tidy.
oRadisson Blu Royal Garden HotelHOTEL$$
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; %73 80 30 00; www.radissonblu.com; Kjøpmannsgata 73; s/d from 895/1245kr; p
a
iW
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This first-class, contemporary riverside hotel (you can fish from your window in some rooms, although most overlook a leafy internal patio) is open and airy from the moment you step into the atrium, where the light streams in through the all-glass walls. Rooms are supremely comfortable.
City Living Hotel & ApartmentsHOTEL, APARTMENTS$$
(Schøllers Hotel;
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; %73 87 08 00; www.cityliving.no; Dronningens gate 26; r/apt from 637/922kr)
Slick modern rooms in the heart of the city, just across from the town's loveliest little garden, and with just the right mix of style and comfort. Most rooms have parquetry floors and modern furnishings, but some have carpets. The prices, too, are brilliant value for what you get and where you get it.
Clarion Collection Hotel Grand OlavHOTEL$$
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; %73 80 80 80; www.nordicchoicehotels.no; Kjøpmannsgata 48; r from 1245kr; iW)
The Clarion offers sleek luxurious living above an airy shopping complex and the Olavshallen concert hall. It has 27 different styles among more than 100 rooms, so no guest can complain of a lack of choice. The location is handy for everything in Trondheim, with the Solsiden waterfront area to Nidaros Cathedral all within walking distance.
P-HotelHOTEL$$
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; %73 80 23 50; www.p-hotels.no; Nordre gate 24; s/d from 695/895kr; iW)
This efficient hotel is a short walk from the train station and the main shopping street. It's part of the Norwegian P-Hotels chain, so it's short on imagination – but rooms are comfortable and simply appointed. Upper floors are preferable to avoid noise from the restaurant underneath. Breakfast-in-a-bag (a bottle of juice and a sandwich) is delivered to your door.
Chesterfield HotelHOTEL$$
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; %73 50 37 50; www.cht.no; Søndre gate 26; s/d from 715/895kr; iW)
All 43 rooms at this venerable hotel are spacious and represent terrific value by Norwegian standards. The rooms have a fresh look with modern furnishings to go with the older style in public areas. Those on the 7th (top) floor have huge skylights with broad city views.
oScandic Nidelven HotelHOTEL$$$
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; %73 56 80 00; www.scandichotels.com; Havnegata 1-3; r 1449-2149kr, ste from 3995kr; piW)
A big business hotel with more than 340 rooms and the full suite of facilities (conference rooms, gym, meeting spaces etc). It's split into several box-shaped wings projecting over the water, so many rooms have river views. Rooms are smallish but attractive, and the breakfast is a corker – Twinings awarded it 'Norway's best hotel breakfast' for 10 years running from 2006 to 2015.
In 2016 it came third, but it still wins our vote. Why? A fresh juice bar, a real-life barista and astonishing choice of every possible breakfast food imaginable…
Scandic BakklandetHOTEL$$$
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; %72 90 20 00; www.scandichotels.no; Nedre Bakklandet 60; r/ste from 1349/1799kr; pW)
At the northern end of Bakklandet, this upmarket choice has plenty in its favour: a great waterside location overlooking the river, an excellent Norwegian restaurant and a very decent bar. The rooms aren't terribly exciting – expect generic furniture and neutral colour schemes, partnered with occasionally adventurous wallpaper. River-view rooms are the best here.
5Eating
oRavnkloa Fish MarketSEAFOOD$
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; %73 52 55 21; www.ravnkloa.no; Munkegata; snacks from 50kr, mains 140-215kr; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
Everything looks good at this fish market that doubles as a cafe with quayside tables out the front. The fish cakes are fabulous and it also does shrimp sandwiches, mussels and a fine fish soup. In addition to seafood, it sells an impressive range of cheeses and other gourmet goods.
BrorDINER$
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; %458 31 526; www.brorbar.no; Olav Tryggvasons gate 29; burgers 98-119kr, tacos 139-149kr; h11am-12.30am Mon-Thu, 11am-2.30am Fri & Sat, noon-2.30am Sun)
There are two choices at this trendy brewpub – charcoal-grilled burgers or tacos – but the variety of flavours is impressive, taking in everything from chicken with mango chutney and smoked-paprika mayo, to smoked-cod tacos with radish, lemon and cayenne-spiced nuts. You get a digi-beeper that tells you when your order's ready to be collected from the hatch.
FairytaleNORWEGIAN, INTERNATIONAL$
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; %400 56 108; www.fairytalecupcakes.blogspot.no; Thomas Angells gate 10b; salads 89kr, small/open sandwiches 129/169kr; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
It's the fantastic lunchtime smørbrød (open sandwiches) that really sell this cafe, with tempting options such as crispy duck or sauteed reindeer. It's a lovely space too, dressed in slinky greys and pinks, with oversized light bulbs dangling overhead.
Café ni MuserCAFE$
(Galleriet Cafe;
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; %73 53 63 11; www.nimuser.no; Bispegata 9; mains 119-175kr; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
For inexpensive light meals and an arty crowd, go to the cafe at the Trondheim Kunstmuseum. Food ranges from pulled-turkey burgers and the soup of the day to salads and baguettes. On sunny afternoons, the outdoor terrace turns into a beer garden.
PersillerietVEGETARIAN$
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; %73 60 60 14; www.persilleriet.no; Erling Skakkes gate 39; lunch from 119kr; h2-6pm Mon-Fri & noon-6pm Sat Jul, 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat Aug-Jun; 
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This tiny, lunchtime-only box of a place does tasty vegetarian fare, to eat in or take away. The menu changes regularly and the cuisine is eclectic. On any day it may include, for example, elements of Thai, Middle Eastern or Mexican dishes.
Jordbær PikeneCAFE$
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; %73 92 91 80; www.jordbarpikene.no; cnr Erling Skakkes gate & Prinsens gate; mains 135-185kr; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat)
'Strawberry Girls' serves pasta, salads and sandwiches in an informal, congenial setting. It's good for juices too. You won't find anything particularly original, but you will enjoy decent, reliable, well-priced cooking.
oBaklandet SkydsstasjonNORWEGIAN$$
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; %73 92 10 44; www.skydsstation.no; Øvre Bakklandet 33; mains 158-275kr; h11am-1am Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat & Sun)
If you're still searching for that quintessentially Norwegian meal, then you won't get much more traditional than this. Originally an 18th-century coaching inn, it's now everyone's favourite homely hang-out in Trondheim, with rambling rooms crammed with old furniture and clad in flock wallpaper, and a menu stuffed with comforting classics such as fish or reindeer soup, baked salmon and liver paste.
It also does a fine herring buffet (188kr to 239kr) and wild-reindeer casserole, and has a truly epic list of aquavits.
The food is more about heartwarming home-cooked meals than presentation, and we like it all the more for that.
Søstrene KarlsenNORWEGIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
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; %73 60 00 25; www.sostrenekarlsen.no; Tmv-kaia 25; lunch mains 145-275kr, dinner mains 195-365kr; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun)
Despite the irresistible energy of the Solsiden waterfront area, most of the restaurants are of the chain variety – people tend to come here for the atmosphere rather than the quality. Søstrene Karlsen is a slight cut above the rest, serving everything from sandwiches to more substantial mains of the usual fish and meat variety.
oFolk & FeNORWEGIAN$$$
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; %975 18 180; www.folkogfe-bistro.no; Øvre Bakklandet 66; 3-/5-course menu 525/815kr; hnoon-4pm & 5-11pm Tue-Sun)
Rustic-chic is the modus operandi at the Folk & Fe. Lauded by the White Guide (Scandinavia's equivalent of the Michelin Guide), it's vintage New Nordic, with a taste for minimalist presentation and seasonal dishes maxing out on local ingredients. The menu changes constantly, but expect smoked fish, reindeer carpaccio, farm cheeses and foraged berries, served on wooden platters.
oVertshuset TavernNORWEGIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 87 80 70; www.tavern.no; Sverresborg Allé 11; mains 175-315kr; h4-9pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Fri, 2-10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun)
Once in the heart of Trondheim, this historic (1739) tavern was lifted and transported, every last plank, to the Sverresborg Trøndelag Folkemuseum on the outskirts of town. Tuck into rotating specials of traditional Norwegian fare or just graze on waffles with coffee in one of its 16 tiny rooms, each low-beamed, with sloping floors, candlesticks, cast-iron stoves and lacy tablecloths.
HavfruenSEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 87 40 70; www.havfruen.no; Kjøpmannsgata 7; mains 189-315kr; h4-10pm Mon-Sat)
Fish, fish and more fish – that's what you'll find at this upmarket restaurant, housed inside a fine old beamed warehouse, overlooking the river and the old-town bridge. The standards are high, reflected in the prices, but you won't get fresher or finer fish anywhere in town. Dishes, which include whale, are traditional and sauce-heavy, but the next-door bar is more relaxed.
If you'd like to catch your own, fishing rods are available from 3pm.
To Rom og KjøkkenNORWEGIAN$$$
(Two Rooms & a Kitchen;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 56 89 00; www.toromogkjokken.no; Carl Johans gate 5; mains 255-395kr; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Service is friendly and the ambience, with original, changing artwork on the walls, is bright and brisk. Dishes range from baked monkfish to Trøndelag beef sirloin, with ingredients sourced locally, wherever feasible. For a sample of its subtle cuisine with a less formidable price tag, savour its daily bar special (179kr).
6Drinking & Nightlife
oIla BrainnstasjonBAR, LIVE MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %489 55 036; www.ilabrainnstasjon.no; Ilevollen 32b; h4-11pm Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri, noon-1am Sat, to 9pm Sun)
This Trondheim institution is the best place in the city to see live music (most nights around 9pm; on Thursdays at 6pm), but it's a fine little bar-cafe even when nothing's on the bill. We especially love its 2pm Sunday jazz jam session when local musicians turn up to play – when it works, it's one of our favourite places to be in Trondheim.
Check the website (select 'Hvar Skjer') to see what's coming up.
oJacobsen og SvartCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %902 44 226; www.jacobsenswart.no; Ferjemannsveien 8; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)
One of Trondheim's trendiest coffee cafes, Jacobsen og Svart does what many claim to be the city's best coffee. Throw in a very cool soundtrack and near-perfect, freshly baked cinnamon rolls and you're somewhere close to cafe heaven.
oAntikvariatetCAFE, BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %942 20 557; Nedre Bakklandet 4; drinks from 79kr; h2pm-1.30am Tue-Fri, noon-1.30am Sat & Sun)
Now this is our kind of place – craft beers on tap, shelves lined with books, lovely views over the water and regular live gigs to boot. Unsurprisingly it's popular with students and trendy types, and it's in a delightful location among the wooden houses of the Bakklandet. You'll have to be lucky to snaffle a balcony table.
oTrondheim MicrobryggeriMICROBREWERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 51 75 15; www.tmb.no; Prinsens gate 39; h3pm-midnight Mon, 3pm-2am Tue-Fri, noon-2am Sat)
This splendid home-brew pub deserves a pilgrimage as reverential as anything accorded to St Olav from all committed øl (beer) quaffers. After a 2014 renovation and with up to eight of its own brews on tap and good light meals available, it's a place to linger, nibble and tipple. It's down a short lane, just off Prinsens gate.
oCafe LøkkaBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %400 00 974; www.cafelokka.no; Dokkgata 8; h11am-midnight Sun-Tue, to 2am Wed-Sat)
Long before its latest makeover, mustard-yellow Cafe Løkka was a boat-repair workshop. It now carries a good range of beers, on draught and in bottle, and also does milkshakes. It's more an early-evening venue than a serious late-night drinking den. It also does a good range of meals.
Café Le FrèreCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %900 90 989; Søndre gate 27; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4.30pm Sat, 11.30am-4pm Sun)
This agreeable little corner cafe is strewn with flowerpots outside and inside its story is told in two mottos: 'probably the best espresso in the world' and 'all shots double unless requested'. It also serves pastries and light snacks, but here it's all about the coffee.
HabitatBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %955 22 669; www.facebook.com/habitattrondheim; Olav Tryggvasons gate 30; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
This fine little craft-brewery pub serves an intriguing range of sour beers (or what they call 'experimental beers') and 'hand-crafted pizzas' to an appreciative crowd that's a slight cut above the student crowd. Try the Berliner Weisse.
Bare BlåbærBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 53 30 32; www.barebb.no; Innherredsveien 16; h11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Join the throng that packs both the interior and dockside terrace of this popular place over near the Solsiden waterfront area. It's renowned for its cocktails – and for preparing what many believe to be some of the finest pizzas in town, including the intriguing chilli bollocks (presumably a winter special).
StudentersamfundetBAR
(Student Centre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.samfundet.no; Elgesetergate 1)
During the academic year, this place has 10 lively bars, a cinema and frequent live music, while in summer it's mostly a travellers' crash pad. It shuts down in summer, which is one of Trondheim's great shames.
3Entertainment
oDokkhusetCULTURAL CENTRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %911 59 045; www.dokkhuset.no; Dokkparken 4; h3-10.30pm Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat)
In an artistically converted former pumping station (look through the glass beneath your feet at the old engines), the Dock House is at once auditorium (on some nights you'll hear experimental jazz or chamber music), restaurant and cafe-bar. Sip a drink on the jetty or survey the Trondheim scene from its roof terrace.
Things are quiet to the point of closure in summer.
OlavshallenCONCERT VENUE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 99 40 50; www.olavshallen.no; Kjøpmannsgata 44)
Trondheim's main concert hall is within the Olavskvartalet cultural centre. The home base of the Trondheim Symphony Orchestra, it also features international rock and jazz concerts, mostly between September and May.
7Shopping
oBryggerekka BruktmarkedMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.midtbeyn.no/bruktmarked; Kjøpmannsgata; h10am-4pm Sun mid-May–early Sep)
Along the waterfront close to where Kongens gate hits the water, the colourful wharfside warehouses provide a lovely backdrop for this summer-only Sunday flea market. It's mostly antiques, secondhand and the occasional vintage, with coffee and waffles at regular intervals.
oTingHOMEWARES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %452 00 700; www.ting.no; Olav Tryggvasonsgate 10; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Modern designer homewares dominate this funky shop – it's all about Scandinavian cool without an outrageous price tag. A couple of doors up, Småting (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %47 48 92 88; www.ting.no; Olav Tryggvasonsgate 6; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat), run by the same people, brings the same creative eye to children's toys.
SukkerDESIGN
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %476 53 637; www.sukkerdesign.no; Nedre Bakklandet 9; h2-5pm Fri, 11-4pm Sat & Sun)
Designer just about anything is what this gorgeous little boutique is all about – jewellery and other accessories, clothing, artworks, ceramics, homewares…the designers actually run the shop and you'll want to spend both serious time and money here. It's just a pity (or perhaps just as well) it doesn't open longer hours.
Elin AuneCERAMICS
(Trønderkeramikk;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 51 74 10; www.elinaune.no; Prinsens gate 21; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
This family has been making local ceramics since 1797 and it shows – this handmade pottery using hand-drawn designs has the charm of local industry and design that mass-produced ceramics will never match. There are pots, bowls, cups and more. Although there's an entrance on Prinsens gate, you can also enter through the Trondheim Torg Shopping Centre from Torvet.
Søstrene GreneSTATIONERY, HOMEWARES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 51 02 00; www.sostrenegrene.com; Olav Tryggvasons gate 14; h10am-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 7pm Thu)
Very cool stationery items and a few homewares in pastel hues – most things on sale here capture that Scandinavian flair for design in a trendy but understated way.
Moods of NorwayFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %924 25 722; www.moodsofnorway.com; Olav Trygvassonsgate 29; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
The quirky fashions of this stunning Norwegian success story make a virtue out of eccentricity. Bright colours and harmless fun are recurring themes.
HusflidenARTS & CRAFTS, CLOTHING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 83 32 30; www.norskflid.no; Olav Tryggvasonsgate 18; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
Need a bunda for Norwegian national day? Or simply on the lookout for a traditional Norwegian gift? Husfliden is your place.
8Information
Internet
There's free internet access at the tourist office and the library (
GOOGLE MAP
; %72 54 75 00; Kongens gate; h10am-6pm Mon, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat).
Post
Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Dronningens gate 10) Undergoing major renovations in 2017. If your postal needs are urgent, ask at the tourist office for your nearest branch office.
Tourist Information
Tourist Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %73 80 76 60; www.visittrondheim.no; 1st fl, Nordre gate 11; h9am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, to 6pm Mon-Sat rest of year) In the heart of the city, with an accommodation booking service.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Værnes airport is 32km east of Trondheim, with flights operated by SAS (www.sas.no), Norwegian (www.norwegian.no) and Widerøe (www.wideroe.no). There are flights to all major Norwegian cities, as well as Copenhagen and Stockholm. Norwegian flies to/from London (Gatwick) and Berlin, and KLM covers Amsterdam.
To/From the Airport
Flybussen (www.flybussen.no; adult one way/return 130/220kr) runs every hourly (less frequently at weekends), stopping at major landmarks such as the train station. The journey time is about 35 minutes to/from the train station.
Værnes Ekspressen (%905 74 475; www.vaernesekspressen.no; adult/child one way 120/60kr, return 210/105kr) also connects the airport with, among other downtown stops, Solsiden and the Radisson Blu Hotel.
It's actually cheaper to catch the train, which connects the Værnes airport station (82kr, 30 to 40 minutes, hourly) with Trondheim Sentralstasjon. Not all trains terminate at Trondheim, however, so watch departure boards carefully.
Boat
Trondheim is a major stop on the Hurtigruten coastal-ferry route. Express passenger boats between Trondheim and Kristiansund (3½ hours) depart from the Pirterminalen quay ( GOOGLE MAP ; Havne) up to three times daily.
Ferries to Munkholmen From mid-May to September, ferries leave at least hourly between 10am and 4pm or 6pm from beside the Ravnkloa Fish Market.
Bus
The intercity bus terminal (Rutebilstasjon; GOOGLE MAP ; Fosenkaia) adjoins Trondheim Sentralstasjon (train station, also known as Trondheim S).
As the main link between southern and northern Norway, Trondheim is a bus-transport crossroads. Nor-Way Bussekspress services run to/from destinations including the following:
Bergen (808kr, 14 hours) One overnight bus.
Namsos (413kr, 3¾ hours) Four daily via Steinkjer (273kr, 2¼ hours).
If you're travelling by public transport to Narvik and points north, it's quicker – all is relative – to take the train to Fauske or Bodø (the end of the line), then continue by bus.
Train
There are two to four trains daily to/from Oslo (937kr, 6½ hours). Two head north to Bodø (1088kr, 9¾ hours) via the following:
Fauske (1052kr, nine hours)
Mo i Rana (908kr, 6½ hours)
Mosjøen (817kr, 5½ hours)
As always, a minipris ticket will considerably undercut these standard prices.
You can also train it to Steinkjer (241kr, two hours, hourly).
GO TO HELL
It may be a cliché, but who hasn't been tempted to pull over and snap a photo of themselves under the sign at Hell train station? If you give in to the temptation – and, hell, we have – you'll have the perfect riposte whenever someone tells you to go to hell. I've already been, you can reply, to Hell and back… Trondheim's Værnes airport is next door, but clearly naming Trondheim's main portal Hell International Airport was a road too far for the Norwegian authorities. For the record, the town's name means 'prosperity' in Norwegian.
The Route North
Stiklestad
It's difficult to overstate the importance of Stiklestad in Norwegian history – thanks to the 11th-century Battle of Stiklestad that still resonates for Norwegians today, many historians place this as the site where modern Norway became possible.
The site, around most of which you can wander for free, is laid out rather like a sprawling theme park, with exhibits on the battle, an outdoor folk museum and, predating all, the 12th-century Stiklestad church.
1Sights
Stiklestad ChurchCHURCH
(
GOOGLE MAP
; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-6pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug)
The lovely Stiklestad Church was built in 1150–80 above the stone on which the dying St Olav reputedly leaned. The original stone was believed to have healing powers, but it was removed during the Reformation and hasn't been seen since.
Stiklestad National Cultural CentreMUSEUM
(Stiklestad Nasjonale Kultursenter;
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 04 42 00; www.stiklestad.no; adult/child/family 180/90/450kr; h9am-6pm Sep-Jun, to 8pm Jul & Aug)
This grandiose wooden structure includes Stiklestad 1030, an evocative exhibition about the Battle of Stiklestad, with dioramas and plenty of shrieks on the soundtrack; a 15-minute film on St Olav; a guided tour including a visit to the church; and a small WWII resistance museum. In the grounds there are over 30 historical buildings (admission free), from humble crofts and artisans workshops to the Molåna, a much grander farmhouse. In summer, actors in period costume bring the buildings to life.
THE BATTLE OF STIKLESTAD
What we know about the Battle of Stiklestad we owe to the great Norse saga, Heimskringla, written by Snorri Sturluson some two centuries after the event. According to Sturluson, in 1030 Olav Haraldsson, back in Norway after a period of exile, marched over the mountains that separate Norway and Sweden with around 3600 soldiers. On 29 July 1030, around 80km north of Trondheim and at a farm known as Stiklestad, Olav's army ran up against a peasant army nearly 15,000 strong and led by pagan, feudal chiefs. Olav's army was routed and Olav was killed. His supporters carried the body to Trondheim, where he was buried.
According to Sturluson, a year later Olav's coffin was opened and his body had not decayed at all – his hair and fingernails had even grown in the intervening years. Wherever the truth lay, such was the power of Olav's story that his martyrdom became a defining pillar of Norway's historical story.
The Battle of Stiklestad marks Norway's passage between the Viking and medieval eras. Although Olav was killed, the battle is generally lauded as a victory for Christianity in Norway and the slain hero is recalled as a martyr and saint. He was canonised in Trondheim in 1031 and Pope Alexander III confirmed Olav's sainthood in 1164. St Olav developed a following all over northern Europe and his grave in Trondheim's Nidaros Cathedral became a destination for pilgrims from across the continent.
zFestivals & Events
St Olav FestivalCULTURAL
(www.stiklestad.no/english/the-saint-olav-festival; hJul)
Every year during the week leading up to St Olav's Day (29 July) Stiklestad hosts the St Olav Festival with a medieval market, wannabe Vikings in costume and a host of other activities. The high point of the festival is an outdoor pageant (held over the last five days nightly at 7pm) dramatising the conflicts between the king and locals.
Some of Norway's top actors and actresses traditionally take the major roles, while locals play minor parts and swell the crowd scenes. Tickets to the drama cost 500/450kr per adult/child.
4Sleeping & Eating
Although most travellers visit on a day trip or while passing between Trondheim and the north, there is one excellent option for those who want to sleep among the ghosts of battles past.
The Stiklestad Hotell has a decent restaurant. Otherwise, there's more choice in Steinkjer or Namsos.
Scandic Stiklestad HotellHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 04 42 00; www.stiklestad.no/hotell; s/d from 950/1250kr; paW)
Inside the Stiklestad National Cultural Centre, this fine hotel is overseen by the Scandic chain but retains its own way of doing things. Rooms combine a contemporary look (think dark tones and parquetry floors) with symbolism from the Stiklestad story.
8Getting There & Away
The site of Stiklestad lies 5km east of the E6 on Rv757. There is no public transport to the site.
Steinkjer
Pop 21,151
Medieval sagas speak of Steinkjer as a major trading centre. Little remains of such a significant past, although it does serve as a crossroads of the two major routes to the north. Even so, you may not even realise you've passed through town, not least because there's little here to hold your attention, aside from the town's Egge Museum, an open-air farm complex 2.5km north of town. On the same hilltop site are several Viking burial mounds and stone circles.
1Sights
Egge MuseumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 13 44 90; www.eggemuseum.no; Fylkesmannsgården; adult/child 70kr/free; h10am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year)
This open-air farm complex lies 2.5km north of town. If you've visited this kind of museum (ie traditional farm buildings, wandering animals and volunteers in traditional dress), you won't find much that's new here, but the kids should enjoy it. On the same hilltop site are several Viking burial mounds and stone circles.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are a couple of sleeping options in Steinkjer, but most visitors pass through en route between Trondheim and the north.
FøllingstuaCAMPGROUND$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 14 71 90; www.follingstua.com; E6, Følling; car or caravan sites 240kr, cabins 590-1500kr, d with shared/private bathroom 700/750kr)
Beside the E6, 14km north of Steinkjer near the Snåsavatnet lake's southwestern end, this lovely, welcoming campground may tempt you to linger for a day or two, fish in the lake or rent one of its boats and canoes (200kr per day).
Tingvold Park HotelHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 14 11 00; www.tingvoldhotel.no; Gamle Kongeveien 47; s/d from 1100/1300kr; piW)
Beside an old Viking burial site, this secluded, well-run option is a member of the Best Western group. Overlooking Steinkjer, it has a pleasant lawn and garden, and the rooms are tidy if unexciting.
Brod & CirkusNORWEGIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 16 21 00; www.brodogcirkus.no; Kongens gate 33; mains from 285kr, 3-course meals 495kr; h11am-4pm Tue, 11am-4pm & 6-9pm Wed-Fri, 6-10pm Wed-Sat)
S
Meat, fish and shellfish are all sourced locally at this fine restaurant, and bread and desserts are all created on the premises.
8Information
Tourist Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 40 17 16; www.visitinnherred.com; Sjøfartsgata 2a; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) Beside the E6, opposite the Amfi shopping centre. From the train station take the foot tunnel. Doubling as the Kystriksveien Info-Center, it can book accommodation in town and along the coastal route. It also rents bikes (per hour/day 75/200kr).
8Getting There & Away
Buses connect Steinkjer with Trondheim (273kr, 2½ hours, four daily), but the train is faster with more frequent departures to Trondheim (241kr, two hours), Trondheim's Vaernes Airport (183kr, 1½ hours) and Mosjøen (602kr, 3½ hours).
If driving and heading north, at Steinkjer, the road branches – take the E6 Arctic Highway (follow the signs to Narvik) or the prettier Rv17, the Kystriksveien towards Namsos.
TRAVELLING NORTH FROM STEINKJER
Leaving Steinkjer, the E6 follows the north shore of the 45km-long, needle-thin lake Snåsavatnet, bordered by majestic evergreen forests. You may prefer to take the Rv763 along the quieter southern shore to see the Bølarein, a 5000- to 6000-year-old rock carving of a reindeer and several other incised carvings.
Namsos
Pop 12,906
Namsos is the first port town of consequence on the northbound coastal route between Trondheim and Bodø; it makes a pleasant overnight stop and has a few interesting diversions, but like with most Norwegian coastal towns, it's the setting and the scenery en route that will live longest in the memory.
1Sights
LysstøperietWORKSHOP
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %951 04 995, 74 21 29 00; www.facebook.com/lysstoperietnamsos; Finn Christiansens Vei 14; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat)F
Geir Arne Opdahl and Mona Nordfjellmark have converted a former train shed into an artisan-scale candle factory where they fashion around 15 tonnes of prime-quality paraffin wax each year into pumpkins and peppers, boots, cats, flowers and candles in all colours of the rainbow.
Rock CityMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %950 84 939; adult/child 120/60kr; h5-9pm Sun-Fri, 4.30-6pm Sat)
The large white cube is a temple to rock and roll – and homage to the disproportionately large numbers of artists from Namsos who have made it big on the Scandinavian popular-music scene. Music fans will love it. Everyone else should enjoy the soundtrack.
2Activities
BjørumsklumpenWALKING
( GOOGLE MAP )
An easy scenic 20-minute walk up Kirkegata from the centre will take you to the lookout atop the prominent loaf-shaped rock (114m) with good views over Namsfjorden, Namsos and its environs. About a third of the way up, a sign identifies a track leading to some impressive WWII Nazi bunkers hewn from solid rock.
OasenSWIMMING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.oasen-namsos.no; Jarle Hildrums veg; adult/child 120/70kr; h9am-8pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am-8pm Wed & Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Sep-Jun, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug)
About 1km east of town and built deep inside the mountain, this swimming hall has three heated pools and a 37m water slide – ample reward for the kids who've endured long Norwegian road trips.
4Sleeping & Eating
Namsos CampingCAMPGROUND$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 27 53 44; www.namsos-camping.no; Flyplassvegen 10; tents/caravans 150/300kr, 4-bed cabins with outdoor bathroom from 525kr, with private bathroom 850-1150kr)
This superior campground has a large kitchen and dining room, playground and minigolf. Basic cabins are a bargain and the more expensive ones are well equipped. Alongside is a shallow lake that's ideal for children, who'll also enjoy the go-karts and communing with the squirrels. From Namsos, take Rv17, direction Grong, then follow the airport signs.
oScandic Rock CityHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 22 40 00; www.scandichotels.no; Sverres gate 35; r from 1149kr; W)
Right next door to Rock City and stylish and contemporary in the way of most Scandic hotels, this is one of the best places to stay in town. Rooms have daring modern art, strong colour schemes and high levels of comfort. Excellent breakfasts are another highlight.
Tino's HotellHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 21 80 00; www.tinoshotell.no; Verftsgata 5; s/d from 1095/1300kr; W)
Rooms are large and comfortable at this hotel, just a stone's throw from the waterside. A terrific restaurant and warm service round out a fine package.
oTino's RestaurantITALIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Verftsgata 5; pasta/pizza from 155/140kr, mains 275-305kr; hnoon-11pm)
Tino, the owner, who is as Italian as they come despite many years in Norway, runs a great restaurant that serves both international food and fine Italian cuisine (such as 24 varieties of pizza), a continent away from Norway's usual pizza and pasta joints.
7Shopping
AakervikFOOD
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 27 20 90; www.facebook.com/maakervik; cnr Havnegata & Herlaugs gate 16; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Wed, to 5pm Thu & Fri, to 4.30pm Sat)
This gourmet-food shop is a great place to buy wild salmon and other fish, reindeer, roe deer and elk. The interior is a mini-menagerie of stuffed animals and birds eyeing you glassily from all angles; pay your respects to the amiable brown bear.
8Information
The seasonal tourist office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 22 66 04; www.visitnamdalen.com; Havnegata 9; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) rents out cycles (60/150kr per hour/day) and also provides information about the Kystriksveien.
8Getting There & Away
Nor-Way Bussekspress runs four times daily between Namsos and Trondheim (413kr, 3½ hours) via Steinkjer (186kr, 1½ hours).
Rørvik
Pop 2949
Tiny Rørvik buzzes whenever the northbound and southbound Hurtigruten coastal ferries meet each other here every day around 9.30pm. What gets passengers up early from the dinner table is the splendid Norveg.
1Sights
oNorvegMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 36 07 70; www.kystmuseetnorveg.no; Strandgata 7; adult/child incl audio guide 80/40kr; h10am-10pm mid-Jun–Aug, 11am-3pm rest of year & when Hurtigruten is in port)
Architecturally exciting and resembling a sailing ship, Norveg recounts 10,000 years of coastal history through a variety of media, including an accompanying audio guide, available in English. It also runs a well-regarded gourmet restaurant.
4Sleeping & Eating
There's nowhere to stay in Rørvik – most visitors visit from the passing Hurtigruten or en route elsewhere.
oRestaurant NorvegNORWEGIAN$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %488 80 025; www.kystmuseetnorveg.no/restaurant-norveg; Strandgata 7, Kystmuseet; mains from 295kr; h10am-10pm)
The restaurant at the Norveg museum is one of the finest in Trøndelag, with visiting Michelin-starred chefs and a high-class menu that changes with the seasons. Dress nicely and book ahead.
8Getting There & Away
Aside from being a stop of the Hurtigruten coastal ferry, the swiftest way to travel between Rørvik and Namsos is by express passenger boat (adult/child 245/124kr, 1½ hours, one to three times daily).
By road, Rørvik is 320km north of Trondheim.
Leka
Pop 589
You won't regret taking a short side trip to the wild and beautiful island of Leka; for hikers, the desert-like windswept landscape is particularly enchanting. Aside from the fascinating geological story – the wind-eroded rocks once formed part of the seabed, now uplifted, and they turn wonderful shades of red and yellow – Leka is home to Viking burial mounds, sea eagles and Stone Age rock paintings. For more information visit www.visitleka.no.
HERLAUGSHAUGEN
Within easy walking distance of Leka's port area lies Herlaugshaugen, the second-largest Viking burial mound in Norway. Its origins date to the 10th century when, according to the Icelandic sagas, Harald Håfagre (known as Harald Fair Hair in English), Norway's first king, marched along the coast. As he neared Leka, the island's King Herlaug chose to be buried alive along with 11 of his men, rather than face Harald's all-conquering armies. Excavations in the 18th century revealed human and animal skeletons, weapons and even the remains of a boat.
2Activities
There are a remarkable 34 marked hiking trails on Leka, ranging from 500m to 9km in length. Various cycling routes also circumnavigate the island, covering 28km – rent bikes from Lekamøya Spiseri.
For brief hiking and cycling route descriptions, pick up the brochure Leka Tourist Guide – Cycling & Hiking, which is available from regional tourist offices.
Lekamøya SpiseriCYCLING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %417 68 615; Skeismyrveien 29; child/adult/tandem bicycle per day 125/225/350kr)
Conveniently close to where the ferries arrive and depart from Gutvik, Lekamøya Spiseri rents out bicycles for exploring the island.
SCARY SEA EAGLES
Birdwatchers love Leka for the chance to see the majestic white-tailed sea eagle, but historically parents have been less happy to see them. It was here, in 1932, that a particularly cheeky specimen snatched a three-year-old local girl called Svanhild and carried her off. She was, locals assure us, deposited by the eagle high on a mountain ledge, from where she was rescued…
4Sleeping
Leka Motell og CampingCAMPGROUND$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %74 39 98 23; www.leka-camp.no; tent/caravan sites 140/240kr, r 400-850kr, huts or apt 1100-1900kr)
You can camp at Leka Motell og Camping, but for more comfort reserve one of its well-equipped, reasonably priced motel rooms. For something different and more spartan, hire a sod-roofed stone hut (400kr), sleeping up to four in bunk beds.
Leka BryggeAPARTMENT$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %957 93 318; www.lekabrygge.no; apt from 1375kr; pW)
Attractive modern apartments in a lovely white-wood building on Leka's east coast make this the best choice on the island. Each of the 13 apartments has parquetry floors, a kitchen, sea views and access to a common laundry.
8Getting There & Away
Leka is accessed by hourly ferry from Gutvik (adult/child/car 37/18/94kr), a 20-minute drive from the Rv17 coastal road. The first ferry leaves Gutvik at 7.30am, the last at 10.55pm.