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Korean dance performance
Seoul has a jaw-dropping amount going on almost every day of the year, anything from traditional dance performances to classical music or live jazz. Theatrical performances are big earners for the city, and some have been so popular with international visitors that they’ve been exported to other lands. Nowhere in Seoul is too far from a gigantic cinema, though there are also a couple of smaller-scale arthouse operations. More local – or at least East Asian – in nature is the opportunity to belt out a few hits at a noraebang, a karaoke-style singing room. While gambling is technically illegal in Korea, there are still a couple of fun ways to lose your money – in a casino or at the races.
Listings Two good sources of entertainment listings are the official city tourist site (
english.visitseoul.net) and 10 magazine (10mag.com), while the English-language dailies have comprehensive weekend supplements. For music and gig listings, check out koreagigguide.com.
Koreans love going to the movies for Hollywood and Kollywood blockbusters – most of the country seems to see all major movies within a week of their release. CGV and Megabox are the two major cinema chains (sadly, neither has an English-language website); they show foreign films in their original language with Korean subtitles, though in most cinemas, local films are Korean-only. There are also a few options for those looking for something a little more arthouse, with some establishments catering to foreigners.
Ciné de Chef 씨네 드 쉐프 848 Nonhyeon-ro 
02 3446 0541; Apgujeong subway. A combination of restaurant and theatre, located in the bowels of the Apgujeong CGV cinema complex; from W70,000 per head. Daily 3–11pm.
Cinematheque 시네마테크 13 Donhwamun-ro 02 741 9782; Jongno 3-ga subway. Also going under the name ”Seoul Art Cinema”, this sits on top of the Nagwon Arcade and offers a rolling calendar of themed events, some of which are based around foreign films; pop by and pick up a pamphlet. Tickets around W8000.
CGV Wangsimni 17 Gwangjang-ro 1544 1122; Wangsimni subway. The Wangsimni branch of Korea’s biggest cinema chain has a “Gold Class” theatre, designed to resemble the first-class section on a plane, seating just thirty. Tickets W35,000.
Korea Film Archive 한국영상자료원 400 World Cup Buk-ro 02 3153 2001, eng.koreafilm.or.kr; Digital Media City subway. This institution regularly screens films from home and abroad, and has a large selection of Korean classics that can be rented for viewing on the premises. Access is tricky; see their website for details. Tickets usually free.
Lotte World Tower Cinema 롯데 월드 타워 시네마 300 Olympic-ro 1544 8855; Jamsil subway. This new Seoul skyscraper has a cinema with a few interesting screens, including the Super Plex G (once the world’s largest), the Super 4D (featuring “4D” technology, which means piped scents and moving seats), cineFamily (private rooms for those with rambunctious kids) and Charlotte (a premium hall with roomy seats).
Megabox Boutique M 메가박스 부틱M B1 Coex, 524 Bongeunsa-ro 1544 0070; Samseong subway. The chain’s huge COEX branch has theatres resembling something from the not-too-distant future – the perfect place to watch a sci-fi flick. The experience is akin to being in a luxury hotel – “guests” are given slippers, a blanket and a bottle of Evian on check-in, and you can order a cocktail during the screening. Tickets from W12,000.
Sangsangmadang 상상마당 65 Eoulmadang-ro 02 330 6243; Sangsu subway. The basement of this arts complex has some arty English-language screenings, of which around half are from abroad. Interestingly, they try to show films whose themes match what’s on show in the second-floor gallery. Tickets W8000.
Stage buffs will have plenty to choose from in Seoul. Most popular with foreign travellers are traditional performances and musicals; the latter tend to be based in dedicated theatres.
Dongsoong Art Center 동숭 아트센터 122 Dongsung-gil 02 766 3390, dsartcenter.co.kr; Hyehwa subway. This well-established Daehangno arts complex puts on some of Seoul’s best experimental drama, though as performances are in Korean only you’ll need some language skills or an open mind.
Jeongdong Theatre 정동극장 43 Jeongdong-gil 02 751 1500, jeongdongtheater.com; City Hall subway. Seoul’s most popular venue for traditional shows of song and dance. Previous performances have looked at mask dances and love stories from dynastic times – whatever’s on, it’s bound to be well produced. Tickets usually from W30,000.
Jump 점프 3F 47 Mareunnae-ro 02 722 3995, hijump.co.kr; Euljiro 3-ga subway. Ever wondered what a family entirely made up of martial arts experts would be like? Experience all the inevitable jumps and kicks in this entertaining musical. Tickets from W40,000. Performances Mon 8pm, Tues–Sat 5pm & 8pm, Sun 2pm & 6pm.
Korea House 한국의집 10 Toegye-ro 02 2266 9101, koreahouse.or.kr; Chungmuro subway. Highly polished traditional performances from some of Korea’s top artists, combined with some of Seoul’s best food: this is one of the city’s most popular nights out. The wonderful shows include fan dances, pansori opera and the long-ribboned hats of the “farmers’ dance”. Tickets W50,000, though you can take fifty percent off if you have dinner here. Performances daily 6.30pm & 8.30pm.
Namsan Gugakdang 남간 국악당 28 Toegyero 34-gil 02 2261 0500; Chungmuro subway. Those looking for a traditional Korean performance should make this their first port of call. Part of the Namsangol complex, its shows revolve around gugak, an ancient style of Korean music, but the savvy curators bring a pleasant variety to the offerings with regular themed events of song, music, dance or a combination of the three. Ticket prices vary but are usually in the region of W30,000.
Pansori
Usually marketed to foreigners as “Korean opera”, pansori performances are a modern-day derivative of the country’s shamanic past. Songs and incantations chanted to fend off evil spirits or ensure a good harvest slowly mutated over the years into ritualized presentations. As might be expected, the themes also evolved, with tales of love and despair replacing requests to spirits unseen.
A good pansori may go on for hours, but each segment will be performed by a cast of just two – a female singer (the sorikkun) and a male percussionist (gosu). The sorikkun holds aloft a paper fan, which she folds, unfolds and waves about to emphasize lyrics or a change of scene. While the gosu drums out his minimalist finger taps on the janggo, he gives his singer words (or, more commonly, grunts) of encouragement known as chuimsae, to which the audience are expected to add their own. The most common are “chalhanda!” and “olshi-gu!”, which are roughly equivalent to “you’re doing good!”, and “hm!”, a grunt acknowledging appreciation, usually delivered with a refined nod. Just follow the Korean lead, and enjoy the show.
Nanta 난타 26 Myeongdong-gil 02 739 8288, nanta.i-pmc.co.kr; City Hall subway. This madcap kitchen-based musical has gone down a storm since opening in 1997 (making it Korea’s longest-running show), with songs, circus tricks and all sorts of utensil drumming mixed with a nice line in audience participation. Tickets from W40,000. Performances daily 2pm, 5pm & 8pm.
Original Drawing Show 오리지널 드로잉쇼 47 Mareunnae-ro 070 4280 8057, drawingshow.com; Euljiro 3-ga subway. Non-verbal performance in which art itself is the star of the show – you’ll see a series of images created amid music and special effects. Tickets from W40,000. Performances daily 5pm & 8pm.
Sejong Centre 세종 문화 회관 175 Sejong-daero 02 399 1114, sejongpac.or.kr; Gwanghwamun subway. Gigantic venue offering a truly diverse array of music: everything from traditional Korean gugak to concerts from world-famous pianists. There’s something going on every night of the week; check the website for details.
Seoul Arts Centre 예술의 정당 2406 Nambusunhwan-ro 02 580 1300, sac.or.kr; Nambu Bus Terminal subway. The home of Korea’s national ballet and opera companies, as well as the symphony orchestra, this rambling complex always has something interesting going on. See website for details of upcoming events.
Seoul isn’t exactly renowned for the quality of its music. From pre-teen girls to bad-boy bike nuts, most of the country listens to sugary K-pop, generic hip-hop and little else. There’s a decent little indie scene centred around Hongdae, though several once-great places have shut their doors in recent years. In addition, there are a few venues where you can hear more highbrow offerings such as jazz or classical music, and an ever-increasing number of international mainstream acts are arriving in Korea.
Channel 1969 채널1969 35 Yeonhui-ro 010 5581 1112; Hongik University subway. Small it may be, but this is one of Seoul’s most creative live music halls, with some acts incorporating visual art into their sets. A good place to see some off-the-wall acts, and tickets are usually free or donation-based. Daily 6pm–3am.
FF 클럽FF 12 Wausan-ro 17-gil 010 9025 3407; Sangsu subway. Both Fs stand for “funky”, though you’re more likely to see some good ol’ rock at this highly popular live music venue. A great many of the bands are foreign, bringing their pals and Korean hangers-on, then staying for the DJ sets afterwards. A great place to make new friends. Entry W10,000–15,000. Tues–Thurs & Sun 8–11pm, Fri & Sat 6pm–6am.
GBN Live House GBN라이브 하우스 418 Dorim-ro 010 9182 0749; Mullae subway. You could barely make this up – a metal club set in an old metal workshop. Little more need be said, other than that it’s not for claustrophobes, or those with a heart condition. Daily 6pm–2am.
Strange Fruit 스트레인지 프루트 64 Wausan-ro 29-gil 02 333 2919; Hongik University subway. Intimate live music venue with no stage – you’ll be up close and personal with the band, and most probably with everyone else too. These walls have reverberated to almost every musical genre, and they offer cheap whisky and beer on tap. Entrance fee around W15,000. Daily 7pm–1am.
Jamsil Arena 잠실체육관 25 Olympic-ro; Sports Complex subway. With a capacity of more than 10,000, this is the venue of choice when the big-hitters play Korea – Lady Gaga, Oasis, Taylor Swift and Bruno Mars have all performed here. Ticket prices vary.
Yes 24 Live Hall 예스24라이브홀 20 Gucheonmyeon-ro 02 457 5114; Gwangnaru subway. Formerly the Ax, this venue has room for 2000 spectators, and is where many international bands play during their time in Seoul. Ticket prices vary.
All That Jazz 올댓재즈 12 Itaewon-ro 27-gil 02 795 5701, allthatjazz.kr; Itaewon subway. An Itaewon institution, this place has been attracting jazz lovers for donkey’s years. The atmosphere is fun, and audience interaction is commonplace – some spectators have ended up playing on stage with the band. Tickets usually W5000. Performances begin Mon 8.30pm, Tues–Thurs 6.30pm & 9.30pm, Fri & Sat 7pm & 10.30pm, & Sun 6.30pm & 9.30pm.
Club Evans 클럽 에반스 63 Wausan-ro 02 337 8361, clubevans.com; Sangsu subway. Hongdae’s most popular jazz venue by a mile, this is small enough to generate some decent acoustics, but large enough to create a good atmosphere. The acts are usually good, and the experience surprisingly refined for this nightclub-filled street. Tickets usually W5000–7000. Daily 7pm–midnight.
Once in a Blue Moon 원스인어블루문 824 Seolleung-ro 02 549 5490; Apgujeong subway. Perhaps the most renowned of Seoul’s many jazz bars, and certainly the closest approximation to a Western venue. The music spans the full gamut of styles, played while customers dine on French or Mexican cuisine, accompanied by a choice from the lengthy wine and cocktail lists. Admission free. Performances start at 7.30pm.
Karaoke may be a Japanese concept, but is even more common in Korea: you’ll find a noraebang (노래방; literally “song room”) on almost every street in Seoul. These singing rooms are wildly popular with people of all ages, and usually cost around W15,000 an hour between a group. The system is different from what Westerners may be used to – you don’t sing in front of a crowd, but in a small room with your friends, where you’ll find sofas, a television, books full of songs to choose from (usually with an English-language section), and a couple of maracas or tambourines to play. Foreigners are often intimidated at first, but after a few drinks it can be tough to get the microphone out of people’s hands. If you don’t hit a noraebang in Seoul, you’ll miss out on a giant part of what makes the city tick.
Luxury Su 수 노래방 67 Eoulmadang-ro 02 322 3111; Sangsu subway. Next door to Sangsangmadang, this noraebang has achieved particular fame thanks to its sumptuously decorated rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows visible from the street – show-offs, this is your big chance. From W2000 per hour in the late morning to W19,000 per hour on weekend evenings. Daily 24hr.
Let’s Run Park 렛츠런 파크 107 Gyeongmagongwon-daero 1566 3333; Seoul Racecourse Park subway. This racecourse is just south of Seoul, near Seoul Grand Park. You’ll also be able to bet on races from sister tracks in Jeju and Busan, which are simulcasted on large screens. Entry W2000. Jun–Aug Fri–Sun 1–9pm, Sept–May Fri–Sun 9am–5pm.
Seven Luck Casino 세븐럭 카시노 58 Teheranno 87-gil 02 3466 6100; Samseong subway. Foreigner-only casino in the Coex complex; bring along your passport as proof that you’re not about to break the law. There’s another branch of the same casino north of the river in the Millennium Hilton. Casual attire permitted. Daily 24hr.