Tim Draper/Rough Guides
A traditional Korean meal
Food is one of the highlights of a trip to Seoul – despite a recent increase in global popularity, much of Korea’s wonderful cuisine may be unfamiliar to first-time visitors, and those brave enough to dive in headlong are in for a treat. Dining is a more communal experience than you may be used to, and single travellers may quickly discover that Korean meals are usually for sharing; it’s possible to take solace in one of the many cheap fast-food chains, which are also perfect for those on a budget. Whether you’re eating at a snack shack or high-class restaurant, almost all Korean meals come with free water and side dishes known as banchan (반찬). Kimchi and pickled radish are all you’ll get at the lower end of the scale, while at more salubrious venues there may be over a dozen plates, largely centred on roots and vegetables.
Seoul’s excellent choice of restaurants is growing more cosmopolitan each year. They run the gamut from super-polished establishments in five-star hotels to local eateries where bellies can be filled for just a few thousand won; even in the cheapest places, you may be surprised by the quality of the food. Many parts of the city have their own particular culinary flavour. Most popular with tourists are the streets around Insadonggil, where restaurants serve traditional Korean food in a suitably fitting atmosphere. At the other end of the scale is Itaewon, where local restaurants are outnumbered by those serving Indian, Japanese, Thai or Italian food, among others. Student areas such as Hongdae, Sinchon and Daehangno are filled with cheap restaurants, and the establishments of trendy Apgujeong cater to the fashionistas.
Menus English-language menus are quite common, though places without them provide an ideal opportunity to attempt an unravelling of Korean text.
Opening times Seoul eateries are likely to be open whenever you’d want them to be – they start early and finish late, few of them take a day off, and many are even 24-hour operations. In fact, New Year and Chuseok are often the only times when you may have to turn more than a few street corners for a meal.
Reservations and tipping These are unheard of at all but the classiest places, which tend to tack a ten percent service charge onto the bill.
Korean fast-food chains
Seoulites live their lives at such a pace that many find it impossible to spare time for a leisurely meal, so it’s no surprise that the city’s streets are packed with fast-food outlets. The food may be fast, but the local offerings are far healthier than their Western equivalents – you could eat them every day and never get fat. However, few of these cheap places are used to dealing with foreigners, so don’t expect English-language menus or service. Below is a selection of the chains you’re most likely to come across as you explore the city – there’ll be one of each within walking distance, wherever you are.
Gimbap Cheonguk 김밥천국. In Seoul street-space terms, this ubiquitous orange-fronted franchise is rivalled only by internet bars and the more prominent convenience store chains. The concept is pretty miraculous – almost all basic Korean meals are served here for around W5000 per dish, and despite the variety on offer you’ll usually be eating within minutes of sitting down. They also do gimbap from W1500, and these can be made to go – perfect if you’re off on a hike.
Isaac Toast 이삭토스트. Toast, but not as you know it. The Korean variety is made on a huge hotplate – first your perfectly square bread will be fried and smeared with kiwi jam, then joined by additional squares of spam and/or fried egg (or even a burger), and the whole lot injected with two sauces. No, it’s not healthy, but it makes a tasty breakfast; prices start at W2200.
Kim Ga Ne 김가네. A slightly more upmarket version of Gimbap Cheonguk, serving more or less the same things with a few snazzy “fusion” additions. Most branches have their menu on the walls in pictorial form, handy if you don’t speak Korean. Dishes W3000–7000.
Lotteria 롯데리아. Unlike the similar, omnipresent McDonald’s outlets, this is a Korean burger chain, a fact made evident by the local take on the simple Big Mac: try the delicious bulgogi burger, made with marinated beef (at least in theory), or the meatless kimchi one served between two slabs of rice, rather than a bun.
Paris Baguette 파리바게트 and Tous Les Jours 뚜레주르. A pair of near-identical bakery chains, whose offerings may satisfy those who need something devoid of spice or rice for breakfast; many branches are also able to whip up a passable coffee. Baked goods start at around W1500, but note that in Korea even the savoury-looking ones are usually extremely sugary. You’ll find branches all over the place; harder to spot is Paris Croissant, a slightly more upmarket version, one of which is inside Anguk station near Insadong-gil.
Yu Ga Ne 유가네. This chain serves tasty barbecued meat, cooked at your table by an apron-wearing attendant. Unlike most barbecue joints, there are dishes for those dining alone, such as the delectable dak-galbi bokkeumbap, which is something like a chicken kebab fried up with rice. W10,000 should get you a bellyful.
Korean food
Korean food can be a little bit bewildering for the first-time visitor, but if you’re going to enjoy the country to the full, you need to let go of any inhibitions and get stuck into its fine cuisine. Note that kimchi, the most renowned Korean dish, is actually a side dish – you’ll get it for free with most of the meals listed here.
Barbecued meat
A favourite with foreigners are barbecue houses known as gogitjip (고깃집), where you barbecue pork, beef or chicken at your own table. Emanating from charcoal briquettes or gas burners, the open flames would contravene safety regulations in most Western nations, but the sight, sound and smell of the juices fizzing away is one of Korea’s richest experiences. Most opt for marinated rib-meat known as galbi, with a choice of beef (so-galbi; 소갈비), pork (dwaeji-galbi; 돼지갈비), or fattier pork belly roll (samgyeopsal; 삼겹살). Chicken galbi (dak-galbi; 닭갈비) is available at separate restaurants, and prepared slightly differently in a large pan.
Rice dishes
Rice dishes include bibimbap (비빔밥), rice topped with a mix of vegetables; bubbling broths known as jjigae (찌개); and either broiled beef (bulgogi; 불고기), spicy squid (ojingeo; 오징어) or curry (kare; 카레) served on rice (deop-bap; 덥밥). Also of note are seaweed-wrapped rice rolls known as gimbap (김밥), which come with a wide variety of fillings and can be made to take away. Broths known as jjigae (찌개) are also served with rice, and prefixed by tofu (sundubu; 순두부), kimchi (김치) or soybean paste (doenjang; 된장) to indicate their main component.
noodles and dumplings
Noodle dishes tend to revolve around simple from-the-packet creations called ramyeon (라면), though some add cheese or rice-cake. Buckwheat noodles, known as naengmyeon and like a chewier version of Japanese soba, are served cold in a spicy sauce (bibim-naengmyeon; 비빔냉면) or in an icy, spicy soup (mul-naengmyeon; 물냉면). Dumplings known as mandu (만두) are popular with foreigners, either fried (gun-mandu; 군만두) or boiled with kimchi (김치) or processed meat (gogi; 고기) fillings.
Veggie food
Vegetarians often have a hard time in Seoul: very few Koreans make this particular lifestyle choice, and the few meals that do not contain meat are unlikely to be prepared in a meat-free environment. In Insadong, a couple of restaurants serve Buddhist temple food, and a few others specialize in dynastic cuisine (hanjeongsik; 한정식); a couple of places have taken the traditional concept further, and lay on royal sets approximating those once eaten by Joseon-era kings and queens; meat dishes will be included, but most of the meal will be vegetarian. Bibimbap and gimbap can also usually be made without meat.
Street food and market food
Those who favour something more rustic can go for some of Seoul’s wide variety of tasty street food. Most prevalent are stalls serving deokbokki (떡볶이), which consists of rice-cake pieces in a thick, spicy sauce. Rice-cake tends to be a bit bland and textureless for foreign tastes, so many choose to have it made with noodles instead (rabokki; 라볶이). Battered, refried comestibles known as twigim (튀김) can be thrown into the same delicious sauce: sweet potato, dumplings and squid are among the items on offer. Wintertime sees similar booths doling out hoddeok (호떡), delicious sweet pancakes filled with cinnamon and melted brown sugar. Perhaps best of all, however, is the market food, available at places such as Namdaemun and Dongdaemun, and often eaten at tent-like shacks known as pojangmacha (포장마차) – with plastic chairs to sit on, tables littered with soju bottles, and a cackling ajumma serving you food, they’re hugely atmospheric.
Beezza 빚짜 113 Sajik-ro 
02 737 8412; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. The most appealing place to have a light meal on this trendy alley, with a selection of small, wood-fired pizzas (W7500 and up), some of which have very interesting toppings. They also stock a range of locally produced craft beer. Mon–Fri 11.30am–midnight, Sat 1pm–midnight, Sun 1–11pm.
Pasta 파스타 124 Gyedong-gil 010 5298 0062; Anguk subway; map. Boring name, right? Well that’s just about the only dull thing about this small restaurant, which has been styled like an old-school Korean bathhouse. In addition, their pasta dishes (most around W15,000 and will feed two) are doled out into small metal bowls, just like the ones you’d drink makgeolli out of. Tues–Sun 11.30am–7pm.
Sanchez 산체스 26 Yunboseon-gil 02 735 0723; Anguk subway; map. This tiny basement place has a great range of fusion Korean food – try the super-tasty “America-style” gamjajeon (미국감자전; W20,000), which sees the regular local potato pancake covered with bacon and egg – you may never want the “normal” variety again. In addition, they have a superlative range of makgeolli sourced from breweries across the country. The only problem is a lack of table space – it’s tiny and very popular, so you may well have to wait, or come back another day. Daily 6pm–2am.
Tongin Market 통인시장 Jahaun-ro 15-gil; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. Hugely popular with local youngsters, this market has an intriguing payment system in place. First you pay W5000 for a batch of tokens shaped like ancient Korean coins (one nyang is worth W500, making them the only sensible currency units on the peninsula), and then hand these over in exchange for food at the market’s many stalls. Spicy rice-cake is the favourite with locals, though foreigners may prefer the slightly more nuanced taste of tempura-like twigim. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–1pm.
Tosokchon 토속촌 5 Jahamun-ro 5-gil 02 737 7444; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. The grandest and most famous place in town for samgyetang (삼계탕), a delicious soup comprising chicken stuffed with ginseng, jujube and other healthy ingredients (W16,000). Fame and size aside, the food really does taste fantastic – be prepared to queue. Daily 11.30am–11.30pm.
Abiko 아비코 20-1 Samil-daero 17-gil 02 730 3236; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Perhaps the spiciest food in Seoul, and it’s not even Korean – donkkaseu (돈까스), from Japan, is a breaded pork cutlet, often served with curry, on rice. There are five levels of spice here – see if you can handle the hottest one. Various toppings and additions available; it’ll work out at around W11,000 per head, all in. Daily 11am–9.30pm.
Ahndamiro 안다미로 6-3 Insadong 8-gil 02 730 5777; Anguk subway; map. There’s something rather romantic about this Italian restaurant, tucked into an Insadong side-alley. It’s a great date spot, and if you’re worried about paying for two then rock up before 3pm for the W10,000 pasta or pizza lunch specials – a bargain. Daily 10.30am–midnight.
Balwoo Gongyang 발우공양 Ujeonggungno 56 02 2031 2081, 
baru.or.kr; Anguk subway; map. Overlooking Jogyesa temple, this is one of the best places to eat in Seoul, particularly for vegetarians. The huge set meals are consummately prepared approximations of Buddhist temple food, and the balance of colour, texture, shape and taste is beyond reproach. Mung-bean pancakes, acorn jelly, sweet pumpkin tofu and sticky rice with ginkgo nuts are among the dozens of items that may appear on your table. Sets go from W30,000. Reservations recommended. Daily: lunch 11.40am–1.20pm & 1.30–3pm; dinner 6–9pm.
Bukchon Sonmandu 북촌 손만두 6 Insadong 3-gil 02 735 1238; Jonggak subway; map. Cheap and tasty, this dumpling restaurant always has several different batches on the go, with portions selectable from a picture menu from W4000, or a selection platter for W8000. Good noodles, too. Daily 11.30am–11.30pm.
Doodaemunjip 두대문집 9 Insadong 12-gil 02 737 0538; Anguk subway; map. Tucked into the Insadong alleys, this is perhaps the most attractive of the area’s many traditional restaurants, with chandeliers lending elegance to the scene. Staple meals are super-cheap (W7000–8000), with the broths particularly good choices, and they’re served with tasty side-dishes. Daily 10.30am–10pm.
Gimsatgat 김삿갓 34 Donhwamun-ro 11-gil 02 765 3824; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Ikseondong is full of hipsters these days – this is where their parents go to eat. Savoury jeon pancakes far predate the craft beer bars and waffle shops currently eroding the area’s traditions, and this is a great place to try them – a mixed platter (W12,000) will feed two, and they have a tremendous makgeolli selection too. Tues-Sun 3pm–11pm.
Gwangjujip 광주집 3 Donhwamun-ro 11-gil 02 764 3574; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. You can get barbecued meat all across the city, but the little three-way junction just north of Jongno 3-ga subway exit 6 is perhaps the most atmospheric in town – dozens and dozens of diners munch away outside every single night, eating from what look like overturned oil drums. This little venue usually has the best meat – W12,000 for a 200g portion of succulent beef. Daily 3pm–midnight.
Ikdong 익동 21-5 Supyo-ro 28-gil 02 765 8215; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Perhaps the classiest of Ikseondong’s many fancy-looking hanok-style eateries (check out the mother-of-pearl furnishings), and no slouch on the food front either – this “butcher-bistro” whips up great steaks (around W30,000), as well as cheaper salads and pasta dishes. Daily noon–3pm & 5–10pm.
Jeonjujip 잔주집 16-15 Supyo-ro 20-gil 02 2278 3311; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Want something indisputably local? Wend your way down the steamy alley south of Jongno to find this rowdy little place, the best of a clutch selling gul-bossam (sliced pork belly with oysters; 굴보쌈), plus a bunch of side dishes; the pork is steamed outside in large vats infused with medicinal herbs, and the results are fantastic. A W20,000 set will feed two. Daily 11am–11pm.
Nwijo 뉘조 Gyeongundong 84-13 02 730 9301; Anguk subway; map. Charmingly low-key restaurant where chefs create rounds of lovingly prepared traditional cuisine. Come before 4pm and you can take advantage of the great-value lunch meals (W18,000); dinner sets are W28,000 and up. Daily 10.30am–10pm.
Potala 포탈라 99 Cheonggyecheon-ro 02 318 0094; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. Run by a Nepali–Korean couple and centred on a functional Tibetan prayer wheel, this charmingly decorated basement restaurant serves Himalayan specialities (W15,000 for most curries, W10,000 for Tibetan momo dumplings). Highly recommended is the samosa chat – three large samosas served with chopped green onion, chickpeas, curry sauce and sour cream (W11,000). Daily 10am–10pm.
Yi Chun Bok Chamchi 이춘복 참치 4 Jongno 14-gil 02 723 4558; Jonggak subway; map. With its understatedly stylish design, beautiful lighting and immaculately attired chefs, this sushi joint wouldn’t look out of place in Tokyo’s swanky Ginza district. However, the fish served here (mostly tuna) runs along more Korean lines, making for a novel experience. Lunch prices are far lower (get here before 2pm); at this time you can try a sushi platter (W10,000), a full set (W12,000), or hoedeopbap (raw fish on rice; W7000). Daily 11am–2am.
Hanyukgam 한육감 5F D Tower 17 Jongno 3-gil 02 2251 8686; Gwanghwamun subway; map. D Tower has, since opening, become an incredibly popular lunchtime spot for local businessfolk, and this is a good option here – a meat-house in both a Korean and Western sense, with fantastic ribeye steak (W20,000 per 100g), and more affordable local lunch sets such as beef broth (W9800) or seasoned beef on rice (W12,000). The great views come free. Daily 11.30am–10pm.
Din Tai Fung 딘타이펑 2F 13 Myeongdong 7-gil 02 3789 2778; Euljiro 1-ga subway; map. This Taiwanese chain may be milking a decades-old magazine review, but it still makes darn good dumplings – perhaps even the best in Seoul. It’s W9900 for ten of their famed xiaolongbao, or try the shrimp and wonton noodles (W10,000), or other Shanghainese fare. Daily 11am–10pm.
Dongwonjip 동원집 22 Euljiro 11-gil 02 2265 1339; Euljiro 3-ga subway; map. This place has been kicking around for decades, but following TV appearances, the secret is finally out – this is perhaps the best gamja-tang (pork-rib broth) in town. W7000 will buy you more meat than you’d think could fit in a soup that size… hope you like it spicy. Daily 7am–10pm.
Gogung 고궁 2F 27 Myeongdong 8-gil 02 776 3211; Myeongdong subway; map. A good, well-located spot for simple Korean mains – best is the Jeonju bibimbap (W11,000), a tasty southwestern take on the Korean staple. Daily 11am–10pm.
Fortune 포튠 154 Mareunnae-ro 02 2278 7770; Dongdaemun History & Culture Park subway; map. The best restaurant in Dongdaemun’s curious little Russiatown, with a mix of Russian and Central Asian dishes including meaty mains (W10,000), filling soups (W6000) and delicious salads (W5000). The Russian beer (W5000) goes down nicely – and you should be sure to get some honey cake from the downstairs café before leaving. Daily noon–11pm.
Green Dabang 그린다방 3F Daerim Building, 157 Euiljiro 02 2273 7128; Euljiro 3-ga or Euljiro 4-ga subway; map. Makercity Sewoon is the most unlikely hipster spot in the city, and this bistro-like affair was one of the first places to open up on the “wings” of this old-school market. Dinner can be a little pricey, with steak (W23,000) and pasta (W15,000) among the choices to have with a glass of red (W4000), but better value is the super-thick pork cutlet (W8000) – there are only 25 available each weekday lunchtime, so get here before noon if you want one. Mon–Fri 11.30am–2pm & 3pm–midnight, Sat 6pm–midnight.
Gwangjang Market 광장시장 Off Jongno; Jongno 5-ga subway; map. If you haven’t had a meal at Gwangjang, you haven’t really been to Seoul. It’s a beguiling place with all manner of indoor and outdoor places to eat; best is a bindaeddeok (빈대뗙; mung-bean pancake) in the central crossroads, though at lunchtime you should track down the alley selling yukhoe (육회; raw beef tartare). Daily noon–2am.
Korea House 한국의집 10 Toegye-ro 02 2266 9101, koreahouse.or.kr; Chungmuro subway; map. Modelled on the court cuisine enjoyed by the kings of the Joseon dynasty, dinner sets here start at W68,000 (small lunch sets from W15,000), and are made up of at least thirteen separate components, usually including broiled eel, ginseng in honey, grilled sliced beef and a royal hotpot. Those eating dinner here will get a discount for the performances of traditional song and dance. Reservations recommended. Daily: lunch noon–2pm, dinner 5–6.30pm & 7–8.30pm.
Seoul’s top ten places to eat
Best naengmyeon noodles Woo Rae Oak
Best barbecued meat Gwangjujip
Best dumplings Jaha Sonmandoo
Best veggie food Balwoo Gongyang
Best bibimbap Mongmyeok Sanbang
Best soup Tosokchon
Best K-Mex Coreanos
Best views Bill’s
Best desserts Second Best Place in Seoul
Best hidden café Hanyakbang
Mongmyeok Sanbang 목멱산방 Namsan 02 318 4790; Myeongdong subway; map. On the Namsan walking track, a short walk uphill from the lower cable-car terminus, this traditionally styled venue is one of the most enchanting places to eat in Seoul – and also a great place for tea. They sell three types of bibimbap: normal (W8000), with bulgogi beef on top (W9000), or with raw beef (W11,000), and it’s beautifully presented. Eat outside, under the maple trees. Daily 11.30am–9pm.
N Grill N그릴 7F N Seoul Tower 02 3455 9298, nseoultower.net; map. Expensive French restaurant perched atop the N Seoul Tower. You won’t get much change from W100,000 per person, but the food is top-class, and there are few better views of Seoul. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm & 5–11pm, Sat & Sun 11am–11pm.
Pierre Gagnaire à Seoul 피에르가지에르 30 Euljiro 02 317 7181, pierregagnaire.co.kr; Euljiro 1-ga subway; map. Molecular gastronomy hit Seoul when the unique creations of Michelin-starred French megachef Pierre Gagnaire started tickling tastebuds atop the Lotte Hotel. The menu has a discernible Korean twist, with ingredients such as ginger, sesame leaves and “five-flavoured” omija berries letting off little flavour bombs in certain dishes. Lunch menu W85,000, dinner from W170,000; reservations essential. Daily noon–3pm & 5–11pm.
Taj 타지 73 Myeongdong-gil 02 776 0677; Euljiro 1-ga subway; map. One of the best and most attractive Indian restaurants in Seoul, just downhill from Myeongdong Cathedral. Curries start at W18,000, though from noon–3pm on weekdays there are bargain lunch deals for just W12,000. Daily noon–3pm & 6–10pm.
Woo Rae Oak 우래옥 62-29 Changgyeonggung-ro 02 2265 0151; Euljiro 4-ga subway; map. This meat-house and its elegant, hotel lobby-like atrium have been here since 1946 – just one year less than Korea itself. The customer base seems to have changed little in decades, and the sight of septuagenarians munching away in their Sunday best is rather charming. Most are here for the meat (W25,000 or so per head), though they also serve superb naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles similar to Japanese soba (W12,000). Daily 11am–10.30pm.
Jaha Sonmandoo 자하 손만두 12 Baekseokdong-gil 02 379 2648; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. Dumplings known as mandu are a cheap Korean staple, but unlike the regular processed fare, the handmade versions served here (from W6500) are delicious, filled with chunks of quality beef, radish, shiitake mushrooms and the like; you’ll probably need two for a real meal. The setting is just as pleasant, a minimalist space with mountain views. Daily 11am–9.30pm.
Hoho Sikdang 호호식당 35 Daehangno 9-gil 02 741 2384; Hyehwa subway; map. Without doubt the most attractive restaurant in the Hyehwa area, there are queues each mealtime to get into this hanok venue, which serves simple Japanese noodle and rice-bowl dishes – try gyudon (beef on rice; W9000), or ebi-fry (shrimp tempura on rice; W13,000). Daily 11am–3pm & 5–10pm.
Samcheonggak 삼청각 3 Daesagwan-ro 02 765 3700; Anguk subway; map. This mountainside venue was once a gisaeng house of some repute, and used by luminaries such as former president Park Chung-hee as a secluded place of pleasure. It has since been converted into a traditionally styled restaurant serving a take on Korean royal cuisine, and still hosts occasional shows of traditional song and dance. Set meals W50,000–150,000. Daily 10am–11pm.
Saemaeul Sikdang 새마을 식당 3 Daehangno 11-gil 02 3672 7004; Hyehwa subway; map. So what if it’s a chain restaurant – this pleasingly noisy venue still doles out the best-value barbecue meat in the wider Hyehwa area. Try the wafer-thin yeoltan bulgogi beef (열탄 불고기; W8000 per portion), washed down with some soybean broth (된장찌개; W6000). Daily 11.30am–midnight.
Culinary curiosities
While even “regular” Korean food may be utterly alien to most visitors, there are a few edibles that deserve special attention; you’ll find some of the following at restaurants, but street stalls and markets are the best places to go hunting.
Beonddegi (번데기) In colder months, stalls selling this local delicacy – silkworm larvae – set up on pavements and riverbanks across the whole country. The smell of these mites boiled up in a broth is so disgusting that it may well breach international law. The treat is also served as a bar snack in many hofs, and they burst in the mouth to release a grimy juice – perfect drinking game material.
Dak-bal (닭발) So you’ve learned the word for “chicken” in Korean (dak), spotted it on the menu and ordered a dish. Unfortunately, with this particular meal the suffix means “foot”, and that’s just what you get – dozens of sauced-up chicken feet on a plate, with not an ounce of meat in sight.
Gaegogi (개고기) This is dog meat, but let it be known that – contrary to the expectations of many a traveller – it rarely features on Korean menus: you’re not going to get it on your plate unless you go to a dedicated restaurant. It’s usually served in a soup: yeongyangtang and bosintang are its most common incarnations.
Sannakji (산낙지) Octopus tentacles served still-wriggling on the plate – every year, people die of suffocation when their prey makes a last bid for freedom, but as long as you don’t throw down your tiny octoped whole (as many Korean guys do, in an effort to impress) you should be okay.
Sundae (순대) Don’t let the romanization fool you – this is nothing whatsoever to do with ice cream. In Korea, it’s actually a sausage made with intestinal lining, and stuffed with clear noodles. Head to the nearest market to try some.
Café Sukkara 카페 수까라 157 Wausan-ro 02 334 5919; Hongik University subway; map. Not so much a café as a delightful light-food restaurant, in which vegan pumpkin pudding, chickpea salad, wholewheat spaghetti and the like are whipped up in the (very) open kitchen. Mains from W9000; wash them down with home-made ginger ale (W6000). Tues–Sun 11am–3pm & 6–11pm.
James Cheese Back Ribs 제임스 등갈비 145-1 Eoulmadang-ro 02 324 3305; Hongik University subway; map. Back in 2014, cheesy deung-galbi (barbecued pork ribs; 등갈비) was all the rage across Korea. Most places have since gone out of business, but there are two survivors almost next door to each other in Hongdae – this is the better one, and W16,000 will buy you a serving (single portions also allowed, which is rare), plus the plastic gloves you’ll need to eat it. Wash it down with bottled craft beer from The Booth. Daily 11am–2am.
Jopok Deokbokki 조폭떡볶이 60 Eoulmadang-ro 02 337 9933; Sangsu subway; map. A dish of rice-cakes in spicy sauce, deokbokki (떡볶이) is available at street-stands all across the city, though this small sit-down restaurant is by far the most famous venue, since its staff are rumoured to be connected to the local Mafia (jopok). Fact or fib, the food’s pretty good, especially if you have a few twigim (refried treats; 튀김) thrown on top – just point at what you’d like. Most dishes W3000. Daily 11am–6am.
Julio 훌리오 40 Wausan-ro 13-gil 02 3141 5324; Sangsu subway; map. Stylish restaurant selling Mexican staples such as tacos and burritos from W9000 – try one of their Korean fusion specials, such as the carnitas kimchi fries (W11,500). Daily noon–11pm.
Samgeori Pocha 삼거리포차 70 Wausan-ro; Sangsu subway; map. Nights out in Hongdae usually end late, meaning that this rustic raw fish restaurant can be heaving with drunken students at 6am: it’s an integral part of the nightlife scene, and one of the most atmospheric places to be of a weekend. Having a bit of soju for Dutch courage makes it easier to handle the house speciality, sannakji (W15,000) – chopped-up baby octopus that, while not exactly alive, is so fresh that it writhes on your plate when served. Daily 6pm–late.
Waves 웨이브스 434-11 Dorim-ro 070 7681 0101; Mullae subway; map. If you’re in the quirky Mullaedong neighbourhood, this breezy, daringly designed place will leap out like an oasis among the nuts, bolts and shards of sawn metal. The food’s essentially Hawaiian – come at lunch (before 3pm) and you can try shrimp four ways, or two tasty varieties of poke (W8500). Dinner has the same choices, but at least fifty percent more expensive; still, it’s a better time to try their draught Kona beer. Daily 11.30am–1am.
Zizi Jianbing 쯔쯔지엔빙 19 Hongik-ro 3-gil 02 335 7272; Hongik University subway; map. For a Beijing breakfast (though available all day), swing by this little booth for a jianbing – like a savoury crepe filled with egg, scallion, chilli, coriander (like kryptonite to most Koreans, so they’ll ask if you want it) and a mystery crunchy substance. W3800 will get you one, and you can add non-traditional ingredients such as bacon, cheese or chicken. Daily 1–11pm.
Casablanca 카사블란카 33 Sinheung-ro 02 797 8367; Noksapyeong subway; map. Tiny Haebangchon joint selling Arabic yummies – most come for their chicken or lamb sandwiches (W7000), but they’ve good shakshukas too, and the lentil soup is great value at W2000. They often sell out of absolutely everything by 8pm. Tues–Sun noon–10pm.
Copacabana 코파카바나 41 Itaewon-ro 27-gil 02 796 1660; Itaewon subway; map. Anyone who’s been to a Brazilian churrascaria will know exactly what to expect here – W29,000 buys as much grilled meat and salad as you can eat, or it’s W15,000 for a single steak at weekday lunchtimes. Daily 11.30am–10pm.
Coreanos 코레아노스 46 Noksapyeong-daero 40-gil 02 795 4427; Noksapyeong subway; map. Seoul expats almost unanimously vote this small Texan chain the best in the city for Mexican food, and there are great views from their Noksapyeong roost. Try some of their K-Mex options, such as galbi burritos (W12,000), or pork belly tacos (W7600). Daily noon–11pm.
Happy Home 해피홈 2-10 Itaewon-ro 20-gil 02 797 3185; Itaewon subway; map. Itaewon has a sizeable Nigerian population, and a fair few restaurants catering to them. This is the best by far, a welcoming venue serving grilled plantains, black-eyed peas and beef-and-fish soups to eat with your fufu (“grinded” cassava). It’s around W10,000 per dish. Daily noon–midnight.
Itaewon Sutbulgui 이태원 숯불 구이 24 Noksapyeong-daero 54-gil 02 795 6233; Noksapyeong subway; map. Gyeongnidan’s roster of restaurants seemingly changes by the week, but this earthy joint was here long before the area got trendy. Many an expat has scoffed their first Korean barbecue within these walls, and it’s a great choice – W15,000 per head should get you plenty of meat, plus assorted side dishes. Daily noon–11pm.
Linus’ BBQ 라이너스 바베큐 136-13 Itaewon-ro 02 790 2920; Noksapyeong subway; map. A smash with both Seoul expats and Seoulites themselves, this atmospheric spot is the place to go for a taste of the American south. Try a pulled pork sandwich (W7900), a mac and cheese (W4800), or mashed ‘taters and gravy (W4800), and wash down with some craft beer. Daily 11am–10.30pm.
Menya Sandaime 멘야 산다이메 206 Itaewon-ro 02 790 4129; Itaewon subway; map. Ramen joint serving noodles that are almost as good as you’d find across the pond in Japan. Bowls go from W8000, though in summertime consider the delicious tsukemen (W9000), in which you dip noodles into a spicy soup; the gyoza dumplings (W4000) always go down well, too. Daily 10am–10pm.
Plant 플렌트 2F 117 Bogwang-ro 02 749 1981; Itaewon subway; map. So successful was the first branch of this vegan spot that they’ve opened this second – far better-located – one just south of Itaewon station. It’s not easy to be vegan in Korea, but those dropping in here will be open-mouthed at a menu full of salads, wraps, soups, baked goods and more – you should eat well for under W15,000. Mon–Thurs 11am–9pm, Fri & Sat 11am–10pm.
The Wolfhound 울프하운드 128-6 Bogwang-ro 59-gil 02 749 7971, wolfhoundpub.com; Itaewon subway; map. Irish-style drinking hole notable for an authentic selection of pub grub, including burgers, fish and chips, and shepherd’s pie. Best, however, are the fried breakfasts, which cost from W7900, and go down quite nicely. Kitchen daily noon–11pm.
Zelen 젤렌 52 Itaewonno 27-gil 02 749 0600; Itaewon subway; map. Bulgarian cuisine is one of the culinary world’s best-kept secrets, taking hearty meat and veg dishes from the Slavic lands to the west, and fusing them with kebabs and breads from the Turkic east. Meals here (around W22,000) are well prepared, though best may be the gigantic “couple” shashlik kebab. Daily 11am–3pm & 6–11pm.
Bulgogi Brothers 불고기 브라더스 Oakwood Premier Hotel, 46 Teheran-ro 87-gil 02 3466 8512; Samseong subway; map. The barbecuing of raw meat at your table is one of the quintessential Korean experiences, but new arrivals can find it hard to jump straight in at the deep end. This elegant venue is a good place to learn the ropes, and the meat is always of exceptional quality. Around W30,000 per person, including side dishes and drinks. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm & 5–11pm, Sat & Sun 11am–11pm.
Ciné de Chef 씨네드쉐프 B5 848 Nonhyeon-ro 02 3446 0541; Apgujeong subway; map. Immaculate Italian restaurant located in the bowels of the CGV cinema complex. The place is only really for couples, since sets (from W79,000 per head, and usually including soup, a steak or pasta dish and dessert) include tickets to a private movie theatre, featuring just 30 comfy chairs laid out in couple formation; here you can watch the latest Hollywood blockbuster over a bottle of wine. Daily 10.30am–9pm.
Lee’s Gimbap 리김밥 12 Apgujeong-ro 30-gil 02 548 5552; Apgujeong subway; map. Korean staple foods are being trendified, one after another, so it was only a matter of time before the humble gimbap rice-tube received the treatment. Fillings here include Edam or Gouda cheese, shiitake mushrooms and paprika. Around W4000 a tube, take away only. Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 7.30am–8pm.
Melting Shop 멜팅샵 55 Apgujeongno 46-gil 02 544 4256; Anguk subway; map. Apgujeong probably has the full set of international comestibles now, after the addition of this pretty “retro ricotta bar”. A ricotta caramel tart will set you back W16,500, while pasta dishes go for W24,000–33,000, and salads from W16,000. A place to impress, especially if you can score the seats overlooking Dosan Park. Daily 11.30am–3pm & 5pm–midnight.
Self-catering
Eating out is such good value for money that there’s little need to make your own meals – even those staying at the cheapest guesthouses tend to eat out each day. However, if you do wish to self-cater, or simply throw together a picnic now and again, you’ll find convenience store chains (many open 24hrs a day), such as 7-Eleven, CU and GS25, on almost every single corner. They carry simple foodstuffs like sandwiches (W1500 and up), instant noodles (from W800), crisps and chocolate bars; all have free hot water for making noodles, and chairs to sit on while you’re eating. They also make good places to drink. Supermarkets and markets are good for basics such as fruit, vegetables and salad ingredients, though non-native fruit can be almost absurdly expensive in Korea. Western goods can be tricky to find, with cheese at the top of many an expat’s wish list. For these, it’s best to head to one of the major hypermarkets such as Lotte, E-Mart and Carrefour. Each has a number of huge branches, but these tend to be out in the suburbs, and few are conveniently placed for foreign travellers; one Lotte store can be found in the basement of the Lotte Hotel.
Ryunique 류니끄 40 Gangnam-daero 162-gil 02 546 9279, ryunique.co.kr; map. The name of this vaunted yet understated restaurant is a play on the name of local celebrity chef Ryu Tae Hwan, who worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in no fewer than three cities before going it alone in 2011. His creations are a blend of Korean ingredients and international craft; daily sets change through the year, but expect immaculate, remarkably photogenic dishes involving quail, pine needle and mountain vegetables to pop up on the lunch (W120,000) or dinner menus (W240,000, including wine pairing). Tues–Sun, noon–2pm & 6–8pm.
Stay 스테이 81F Lotte World Tower 02 3213 1230; Jamsil subway; map. Seoul’s top restaurant – in a literal sense, at least, sitting as it does on the 81st floor of the new Lotte World Tower, with views every bit as good as you’d expect from such a height, and opulent decor to match. The food’s pretty grand too – it’s hard to pigeonhole the French-inspired creations of Michellin-starred chef Yannick Alléno, but if you can afford it, you’ll enjoy it. Lunch sets start at W58,000, and dinner mains run from W35,000–75,000. Daily 11.30am–2.30am & 6–10pm.
Sushi Chohi 수시 초히 18-6 Dosan-daero 45-gil 02 545 8422; Apgujeong subway; map. Sushi fans will be in their element at this pine-lined restaurant, overlooking Dosan Park. Absolutely no concessions are made regarding the fish or its preparation: the blades and chopping boards cost upwards of $1000 each, while each fish is selected from the best possible place (and caught wild, rather than farm-raised), whether it be southwestern Korea or northern Japan. Grab a seat facing the chef, and watch the magic happen. Sets from W60,000. Daily 11am–10pm.
Tutto Bene 투또베네 5 Apgujeong-ro 77-gil 02 546 1489; Cheongdam subway; map. The setting of this Italian restaurant is utterly gorgeous, its Orient Express-like wooden panelling offset by amber and honey-yellow lighting, and the scent of freshly cut flowers mingling with the creations of the chef. Pasta dishes are the most popular (from W25,000), but don’t overlook the seafood menu – sourced from remote islands off Korea’s west coast, the oysters are superb. Daily noon–midnight.
Seoul’s café society has come a long way since the turn of the millennium – good coffee is now available on almost every corner, at almost any hour. You’ll find a number of major chains around the city: Hollys and Pascucci have the best wi-fi access, while it’s usually passable at Starbucks, and occasionally also at The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf. Far more interesting, however, are the thousands of privately run ventures, which reach heights of quirky individuality around Hongdae and Samcheongdong; some effectively count as dessert cafés, focusing more on sweeties or baked goods than drinks.
Books Cooks 북스쿡스 5 Bukchon-ro 8-gil 02 743 4003; Anguk subway; map. A hanok-like venue strung with cool lighting, this place is famed for its scones – made to order and served with jam for just W4000. There are tea sets all over the walls, and you can have a brew yourself for W8000 or so. Daily 10am–9pm.
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Mandu Dumplings
Fritz 프릳츠 83 Yulgok-ro 02 747 8101; Anguk subway; map. Highly convenient for those visiting Insadong (just over the road), this newly popular café is a particularly neat choice in warmer months, when one can sit facing the stupa on the leafy outdoor terrace. Tasty coffee for W5000 or so, and you’ll most likely be tempted to try some of the pastries too. Daily 10am–9pm.
Misulgwan Yeopjip 미술관 옆집 22 Jahamun-ro 4 070 4400 0434; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. The name of this café means “the house across from the gallery”, and this highly attractive spot, set in an old mansion, is indeed just over the road from the excellent Daelim Museum. Coffees are surprisingly cheap (from W3500), and there are some nice leather armchairs to sink into. Daily 9am–10pm.
Second Best Place in Seoul 서울에서 두번째 로잘하는집 122-1 Samcheong-ro; Anguk subway; map. A rarity on cosmopolitan and fast-changing Samcheongdonggil – not only has it been here for decades, but it also serves traditional fare. The menu is short and sweet, with an assortment of Korean teas and snacks. Best is the patjuk (W7000), something like a viscous red-bean fondue containing all manner of ingredients from cinnamon to chestnut chunks. Daily 10am–9pm.
Bizeun 비즌 16 Insadong-gil 02 738 1245; Jonggak subway; map. Waffles and ice cream are the regular snacks in Korean cafés, but here you’ll be able to chow down on something more traditional: sweet rice-cakes, known as ddeok (떡), which come in a wonderful kaleidoscope of colours, with flavours running the gamut from pumpkin to black sesame. Daily 8.30am–10pm.
O’Sulloc 오설록 45-1 Insadong-gil 02 732 6427; Anguk subway; map. O’Sulloc is Korea’s largest producer of green tea, but don’t let that fool you into thinking that people come to their flagship tearoom to drink the stuff. Instead, this is a café and dessert bar par excellence, since the precious leaves have been blended into tiramisu, ice cream, lattes and chocolates (W5000–8000). Daily 9am–10pm.
Bill’s 빌즈 4F D Tower, 17 Jongno 3-gil 02 2251 8404; Gwanghwamun subway; map. D Tower has become the place to lunch and dinner for the hordes of suits working in the wider Gwanghwamun area. Set on the fourth level, this Aussie import is now one of the best cafés in the city, with great coffees, smoothies, teas and juices (W5000–9000) served in a swanky space boasting fantastic views of the surrounding towers. A word of warning – don’t look at their dessert selection (especially the excellent Key lime pie), or you’ll want one. Mon–Fri 9am–11pm, Sat & Sun 10am–10pm.
Lusso 루쏘 17 Jeongdong-gil 02 772 9935; City Hall subway; map. Pretty Jeongdong-gil has a fair few cafés, but this one stands out for its second-floor views of the road’s famed ginkgo trees – peer out into the leaves over an espresso and a croissant. Daily 9am–8pm.
Cat Café 고양이 다락방 6F 8-5 Myeongdong 8-gil 02 318 3123; Myeongdong subway; map. Yes, that’s right – a café filled with cats. It’s hugely popular with visitors from wider Asia, who race up to this sixth-floor venue to take gazillions of pictures with the furry felines – great fun. W9000 entry, including a free hot drink. Daily 1–10pm.
Hanyakbang 한약방 16-6 Samil-daero 12-gil 070 4148 4242; Euljiro 3-ga subway; map. If you can find this place, you’re in for a real treat. Set in a side-alley off a side-alley off a side-road, there’s next to no sign of its existence, which makes it all the more surprising that this is one of the most visually impressive cafés in the whole country – the cups, the furniture, the wall art, the lot. The coffee itself is fantastic (and affordable at around W5000), and they’ve a variety of rooms to drain it in; the best are on the other side of the alley (all of three metres) from the main counter. Mon–Fri 8am–10pm, Sat 10.30am–10pm, Sun noon–10pm.
Horangi 하랑이 3F Daerim Building, above Euljiro 19-gil, no phone; Euljiro 4-ga subway; map. Another hipster addition to the Makercity Sewoon arcade, this is a bit of a mixed bag. On the plus side, it looks great, the coffee’s very tasty, and prices are extremely low (W3000 a cup!). On the downside, the over-busy staff have no time for washing up, meaning that it’s paper cups only, and there’s often a bit of a wait. Daily 9am–4pm.
Sanmotungi 산모퉁이 153 Baekseokdong-gil 02 391 4737; map. Made famous by its use as a set in Korean drama The Coffee Prince, this remote coffee house is worth a visit for the fresh air and mountain views on offer from its upper level – these help to explain the rather inflated prices (coffees from W8000). Daily 11am–10pm.
Bau House 바우하우스 64 Yanghwa-ro 02 334 5152; Hapjeong subway; map. At Bau House, over a dozen cuddly pooches are on hand to greet customers, who are encouraged to bring their own dogs along. The coffee’s good too (from W6000), but in such a bizarre atmosphere you may barely notice the taste. Daily 1.30–11.30pm.
Café aA 카페aA 19-18 Wausan-ro 17-gil 02 3143 7312; Sangsu subway; map. Several things set this place apart from the regular Korean café: the huge, church-like front door; a ceiling at least three times higher than the national average; the bespectacled, artsy clientele; and a range of chairs imported from Europe. The upstairs floor functions as a sort of furniture museum, featuring examples from luminaries such as Jean Prouvé and Salvador Dalí. Art aside, the coffee here is excellent (around W5000), as are the various cakes. Daily noon–2am.
Clarté Coffee 클라르테 커피 59 Yeonhui-ro 1-gil 02 323 0729; Hongik University subway; map. “Instagrammable” could describe this Yeonnamdong café – whitewashed walls, high ceilings, pot plants and a neat outdoor terrace conspire to create a near-constant wave of selfies. Good coffee, too. Daily noon–11pm.
Fell & Cole 펠앤콜 7 Seopyongdaero 8-gil 010 8895 1434; Sangsu subway; map. Divine ice cream in a tidy little hideyhole, secreted away in the alleys behind Sangsu station. Flavours change by the day, but expect things like carrot cake, fig mascarpone and caramel sweet potato. Daily noon–10pm.
Old Mullae 올드 문래 433-6 Dorim-ro 02 6326 4336; Mullae subway; map. Though primarily a bar (and one with a good beer selection), this barn-like affair is just as good for a coffee, which is perhaps more appropriate to Mullaedong, an area best visited in the daytime – the spinning cogs on one wall reference the area’s many metalsmiths. Daily noon–midnight.
Anthracite 앤트러사이트 240 Itaewon-ro 02 797 7009; Hangangjin subway; map. Set above the Millimeter Milligram shop, this is the best café in the Itaewon station area. Prices are low by local standards (W4000–5500), the beans are roasted on site, and from the upper level there are great views out towards the river. Also a good place in which to buy your own beans – the selection is pretty global. Daily 9am–10pm.
Passion 5 파션5 272 Itaewon-ro 02 2071 9505; Hangangjin subway; map. Part bakery, part dessert café, part brunch spot, this stylish place is also the headquarters of the Paris Baguette chain. Their baked goods are delicious (from W2000), and the ice creams superb (W6000 for two scoops); there are several types of hand-dripped coffee to choose from, as well as the regular Italian options. Daily 7.30am–10pm.
Café Madang 카페 마당 B1 7 Dosan-daero 45-gil 02 546 3643; Apgujeong subway; map. The Hermès flagship store has a café discreetly tucked away on the basement level, and W10,000 will be enough to get you coffee; afternoon tea for two (2.30–5.30pm) will set you back W55,000. All cutlery, cups and glasses – plus the tables and chairs – are Hermès originals, and a fair proportion of the customers are local celebrities. There’s no cheaper way to buy your way into high society. Daily 10am–9pm.
The Lounge 더 라운지 24F 606 Teheran-ro 02 2016 1205; Samseong subway; map. Sitting atop the Park Hyatt alongside the infinity pool of the hotel’s fitness centre, this is a superb place for a coffee or light snack. Better still is a range of smoothies originally designed by David Beckham’s nutritionist, Patricia Teixeira – well worth the W17,000 splurge. Daily 9am–midnight.
Ryan Cafe 라이언 카페 3F 429 Gangnam-daero 02 6494 1100; Gangnam subway; map. KakaoTalk is by far Korea’s most popular messaging app, and they’ve opened a three-floor shop based around the “Kakao Friends” used in many of their emojis. Named after one of said characters (a mane-less lion), the café on its top level is comically twee, and pretty damn Gangnam – without the usual high prices. Daily 10.30am–10pm.
For something more traditional than the coffee places found on every corner, you could try one of the tearooms studded around Insadonggil and its surrounding alleyways, typically decorated in a traditional style and therefore in keeping with the area. The teas are high-quality products made with natural ingredients, and often come with traditional Korean sweets.
Cha-teul 차마시는뜰 26 Bukchon-ro 11-gil 02 722 7006; Anguk subway; map. Utterly gorgeous hanok tearoom with a splendid range of fine brews, including unusual local varieties such as mistletoe and pine mushroom, and some imported from China. It’s right next to a decaying brick smokestack – an easy landmark to spot. Teas go from W5500. Daily 10am–10pm.
Dawon 다원 11-4 Insadong 10-gil 02 730 6305; Anguk subway; map. The most appealing tearoom in the area is located in the grounds of the Kyungin Museum of Fine Art. In warm weather you can sit outside in the courtyard, while inside you’ll find traditionally styled rooms where guests are encouraged to add their musings to the graffiti-filled walls. The menu lists teas (from W7000) alongside information about their purported health benefits. Daily 10am–11pm.
Su Yo Il 수요일 36 Insadong-gil 02 8723 0191; Anguk subway; map. Fancy tearoom with a few tables overlooking Insadonggil – a fine place for people-watching. Teas cost W7500, and many are served with floating flowers; in addition to the Korean options, they also offer Earl Grey, Darjeeling and other more familiar teas, as well as some fine desserts. Daily 10am–10.30pm.
Mongmyeok Sanbang 목멱산방 125-72 Namsangongwon-gil 02 318 4790; Myeongdong subway; map. This secluded Namsan restaurant also makes a lovely spot for tea, with most brews costing around W5000. Daily 11am–10.30pm.
Suyeon Sanbang 수연산방 8 Seongbuk-ro 26-gil 02 764 1736; Hansung University subway; map. Though a little out of the way and hard to find, this secluded hanok tearoom is highly recommended for those looking for a piece of old-world Seoul. Built in the 1930s, it exudes the charm of a bygone age, turning down the volume button of modern Seoul to leave only the sounds of bird chatter and running water. Teas around W10,000, desserts a little more. Daily 11.30am–10pm.
Korean teas
Tea is no longer the national drink in this coffee-crazed country, which is a tremendous shame considering the wonderful concoctions available here. The following are particularly recommended:
Bori-cha (보리차) This barley tea is served with meals at many Korean restaurants, and is usually replenishable at no extra cost.
Daechu-cha (대추차) Apparently good for relieving muscle pain, this warming tea is made from the jujube, a type of oriental date.
Insam-cha (인삼차) Korea is the world’s largest producer of ginseng, so it’s no surprise to find that they make tea from the stuff. This hugely healthy drink is also available in powdered form at convenience stores, and many hotel lobbies.
Maesil-cha (매실차) Tea made from the Korean plum, and usually very sugary. Many Koreans make the stuff at home, and an alcoholic variety is available at most convenience stores.
Nok-cha (녹차) Korea’s version of green tea, usually grown on the south coast or Jeju island, and available in many different varieties.
Omija-cha (오미자차) Shocking pink in colour, this tangy tea is made from the omija berry, whose name literally means “five tastes”. Particularly good served cold as a refreshing summer drink.
Saenggang-cha (생강차) Made from ginger root, this throat-warming tea tastes just like a Chinese pharmacy smells, and is perfect for chasing away coughs or colds. Not to everyone’s tastes, though for others it’s the best of the bunch.
Yuja-cha (유자차) A citrus tea usually made with honey, and perfect if you’ve got a cold coming on. Unlike most other teas listed here, this one’s pretty easy to make yourself – jars of the jam-like stuff it’s made from are available in any convenience store, so all you‘ll need is hot water.