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Insadong
Insadong has long been Seoul’s main tourist hub, and for good reason: here, there has been a concerted effort to maintain Korean culture, and the area’s small alleyways are filled almost to bursting with rustic restaurants and secluded tearooms, as well as small shops selling trinkets, art supplies and traditional clothing. There are also umpteen galleries to visit, many of them displaying a fusion of old and contemporary styles very much in keeping with the atmosphere of the place. That said, Insadong’s main appeal lies in simply strolling around and taking it all in; you could spend a whole day here, especially since the delights of the palace district are within easy walking distance to the north.
The area isn’t all about consumption and paintings – there are a fair few bona fide sights to take in too. At the southern end of Insadonggil, a road which courses through Insadong, you’ll be able to take what’s likely to be a well-earned rest at tiny Tapgol Park, home to an ancient pagoda. East of Insadonggil are two regal sights: Jongmyo, a shrine where ancient ancestral ceremonies are still performed; and the lesser-known palace of Unhyeongung. Heading west instead will bring you to Jogyesa, Seoul’s most visited temple. Underlining them all is Cheonggyecheon, a below-street-level paradise for pedestrians and joggers, though possessive of a curious history and an element of controversy.
인사동
One of the most charming parts of the city, Insadong is usually teeming with overseas tourists – primarily from other Asian nations – and riddled with galleries, traditional shops, tearooms and restaurants. Many of these are located in the labyrinthine alleys, which sprout off at regular intervals from the part-pedestrianized main drag, Insadonggil (인사동길), where garrulous snack peddlers and ballad-singing buskers add their own touches to the atmosphere. One of the most notable buildings here is Ssamziegil shopping complex, a paradise for souvenir-hunters. Towards the road’s southern end it becomes more westernized, and you should note the very controversial Starbucks – due to protests when it first opened, the company made a slight concession by having its name spelled in hangeul – the first time the chain had ever represented itself in non-Roman text.
On the Buddhist trail in Seoul
There’s no need for the Buddhist experience to stop with Jogyesa. Indeed, there are a number of Buddhist diversions right outside the temple entrance – here you’ll find Buddhist clothing, jewellery, incense and assorted trinkets on sale at dozens of small shops. On the other side of the road is the huge Templestay Center (
eng.templestay.com), where you can book nights at temples across the land – a great chance to get away from city life, though would-be monks should note that a typical temple day starts at around 3am. On an upper floor of the same complex, Balwoo is a restaurant that serves immaculately prepared Buddhist temple food. Those who have a little more time on their hands can take a Zen meditation session at the Ahnkook Zen Centre north of Anguk station, or head to two wonderful temples on Seoul’s periphery – Gilsangsa, up in the Seongbukdong district, and Bomunsa, which stares over the sea on the island of Seongmodo.
조계사 • 55 Ujeongguk-ro • Tues–Sun 9am–6pm • Free; Buddhist activities W10,000 • Jonggak station (line 1)
Just west of Insadonggil’s northern end is Jogyesa, the only major temple in this part of Seoul, and headquarters of the Jogye sect – Korea’s largest Buddhist denomination. Built in 1910, fronted by a car park and hemmed in by large buildings, the temple has neither history nor beauty to its credit, but for some visitors to Seoul it may represent the only chance to see a Korean temple of such size, and its huge main hall is pretty spectacular. The best time to visit Jogyesa is on the Buddha’s birthday which is celebrated with the Lotus Lantern festival, when the main courtyard is smothered with a kaleidoscope of paper lanterns; alternatively, turn up for the beating of the drum, which takes place daily at 6am and 6pm. On site is a small information centre, where you can arrange a session on Buddhist activities; this includes lessons on lantern-making and woodblock printing, as well as a traditional serving of green tea.
익선동
A neighbourhood largely made of small alleys known as golmok, Ikseondong surged in popularity in 2015, when Seoulites discovered that the alleyways and their many wooden hanok buildings make good selfie fodder – the area is now decidedly trendy. You may notice that there are very few women in many establishments – this area has been a favoured hangout for gay men for decades, though this fact has only become truly visible post-trendification. The bars hereabouts were once window-lite upper-floor places marked with subtle rainbow motifs, but many now sit proudly on street level – come by to see Seoul coming out.
운현궁 • 464 Samil-daero • Tues–Sun 9am–7pm • Free • Anguk subway (line 3)
East of Insadonggil is the tiny palace of Unhyeongung. Never having functioned as an official royal residence, it doesn’t qualify as one of Seoul’s “big five” palaces; accordingly, it’s less showy than the others, but the relative lack of people makes it a pleasant place to visit – the bare wood and paper doors would provide the perfect setting for a Japanese anime. Though he never lived here, King Gojong’s marriage to the ill-fated Princess Myeongseong took place in Unhyeongung, and during the Joseon period it was also the centre of neo-Confucian thought, which sought to base civil progress on merit rather than lineage: for much of the Joseon dynasty, each Korean was born with a specific limit to what they could achieve in life. One man who railed against such restrictions was Yi Hwang (1501–70), a chap who ends up in most visitors’ pockets – he’s the “star” of the W1000 note. Also known as Toegye, he was born in the Korean countryside, but excelled in his studies and was brought to Seoul aged 23, in order to prepare for the notoriously difficult civil service exams. He received this education close to Unhyeongung (the academy has long since disappeared), and his anti-establishment thought soon permeated the palace.
Insadong’s Art Galleries
Insa Art Center 인사 아트 센터 41-1 Insadong-gil insaartcenter.com; Jonggak (line 1), Jongno 3-ga (lines 1, 3 & 5) or Anguk (line 3) subways. This interesting building’s seven floors of exhibitions could keep you busy for some time – the extensive wall space displays a wide range of modern styles, with exhibits changing every week to make room for new works. Usually open daily 10am–7pm; free.
Kyungin Museum of Fine Art 경인 미술관 11-4 Insadong 10-gil kyunginart.co.kr; Jonggak (line 1), Jongno 3-ga (lines 1, 3 & 5) or Anguk (line 3) subways. Exhibitions are generally good at this long-time local favourite, whose traditional-with-a-twist style fuses the conventional with the contemporary. Its four pleasant and spacious galleries are centred around a leafy courtyard that’s also home to Dawon, a decent tearoom . Daily 10am–6pm; free.
Sun Gallery 선 갤러리 8 Insadong 5-gil sungallery.co.kr; Jonggak (line 1), Jongno 3-ga (lines 1, 3 & 5) or Anguk (line 3) subways. Spoken about in hushed tones by curators at other Insadong galleries, this houses probably the most renowned collection in the area. It mainly consists of early twentieth-century paintings, and shows that modern art in Korea goes back way before the country’s growth into an economic power – look for pieces by Kim Sou, who had a Rubens-like obsession with flesh, or the floral works of Kim Chong Hak. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; free.
종묘 • 157 Jongno • Sat 9am–6pm; English-language tours Wed–Fri & Sun 10am, noon, 2pm & 4pm • W1000 including tour, or on Palace combo ticket • Jongno 3-ga subway (lines 1, 3 & 5)
Along with the palace of Gyeongbokgung, the construction of Jongmyo shrine was on King Taejo’s manifesto as he kicked off the Joseon dynasty in 1392. He decreed that dead kings and queens would be honoured here in true Confucian style, with a series of ancestral rites. These ceremonies were performed five times a year, once each season, with an extra one on the winter solstice, when the ruling king would pay his respects to those who died before him by bowing profusely, and explaining pertinent national issues to their spirit tablets. These wooden blocks, in which deceased royalty were believed to reside, are still stored in large wooden buildings that were said to be the biggest in Asia at the time of their construction. Jeongjeon was the first, but such was the length of the Joseon dynasty that another building – Yeongnyeongjeon – had to be added.
For most of the week the shrine is only accessible on guided tours, which remove the joy of simply wandering around the wooded complex – go on Saturday if at all possible, which is the one day on which you’ll be given free rein. Whether on a tour or not, note that the buildings themselves remain locked, though the courtyards are open – take the opportunity to walk on the raised paths that were once reserved for kings. The one exception to this is on the first Sunday in May, which is the day of Jongmyo Daeje, a long, solemn ceremony followed by traditional court dances – an absolute must-see.
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Cheonggyecheon
탑골공원 • 99 Jongno • Daily 9am–6pm • Free • Jonggak subway (line 1)
At the southern end of Insadonggil, Tapgol Park is a small patch of land containing as much concrete as it does grass. Its main claim to fame is as the venue for 1919’s declaration of independence against Japanese rule, and it’s also home to a huge, stunning Joseon-era stone pagoda, which sits resplendent at the park’s northern end. Grandly titled official “National Treasure Number Two”, the pagoda has actually been the de facto number one since the burning down of Sungnyemun, but sadly the beauty of its ancient design has been diluted by the ugly glass box placed around it for protection.
While not terribly attractive in itself, the park does function as a rather interesting window on local society. Groups of old men play chess, drink soju and hold lengthy discussions, while office workers and students from the many neighbouring language academies flit in and out on extended cigarette breaks. In addition, the pavement outside the western wall is usually dotted with tent-like booths used by fortune-tellers, still an integral part of Korean society.
종로
A major east–west road, Jongno has been one of Seoul’s most important travel arteries since the dawn of the Joseon dynasty. The name literally means “Bell Street”, and there is indeed a bell in Bosingak belfry, off its southern side – during dynastic times, this chimed 33 times at 4am and 10pm each day, to announce the opening and closing of the city gates. Today, it is only used to ring in the New Year. As recently as the early twentieth century, Jongno was essentially for foot traffic only; wonderful pictures of that time were taken by colonial-era European travellers, showing white-robed chaps striding along in horsehair hats. Jongno also lends its name to the surrounding area, an earthy district filled with often-grimy alleyways both north and south of the road (see box below).
종로 타워 • 1 Jongno 1-ga • Daily 24hr • Free • Jonggak subway (line 1)
Rising just north of Jongno, the unmistakable Jongno Tower is one of Seoul’s most striking buildings. In 1994 Rafael Viñoly architects added three latticed metal columns to the original tower block, topping them with a storey far divorced from the main building; suspended in mid-air, this oval chunk of metal is now home to the aptly named Top Cloud restaurant-cum-bar.
Avoid-the-horse alley
For the average man or woman in dynastic-era Seoul, the appearance of a horse-drawn carriage meant dropping whatever they were doing, and prostrating to proffer Confucian-style respect to whoever was inside – either a member of the Joseon royalty, or the yangban aristocracy. These regular obligations to bow understandably annoyed many people, and as a result small alleyways were created either side of Jongno – those who couldn’t see the horses did not need to bow, and could go about their daily business in peace. Known as pimatgol (피맛골), or “avoid-the-horse alley”, some of these lanes are still in existence; the one heading north of Jongno, and west of Insadonggil, is the most visited, though the one to the south of Jongno is far atmospheric, and home to the Jeonjujip restaurant.
Cheonggyecheon’s chequered history
Taking a walk along Cheonggyecheon, it’s hard to imagine what this small strip of Seoul has been through, even within living memory. The stream’s first significant use was as a channel for royal waste, after King Taejo built Gyeongbokgung palace in 1394. Taejo’s wife, Queen Sindeok, was to become part of Cheonggyecheon in a most curious way: King Taejong (r.1400–18), Taejo’s son and successor, was said to have used stones from her tomb to construct Gwangtonggyo, the first pedestrian bridge you’ll come across if walking along Cheonggyecheon from the west.
Now rebuilt, this bridge was knocked down shortly after the Korean War, the first stage of a process that saw Cheonggyecheon covered entirely with concrete and used as a road. The riverbanks were, at that time, home to one of Seoul’s largest shanty towns – pictures from the postwar era show a level of poverty almost unimaginable today, only eradicated in the late 1970s under the economic reforms of Park Chung-hee. True to form, Park favoured progress over tradition, and Cheonggyecheon’s concrete covering was topped with an elevated expressway.
In 2003, Lee Myung-bak – then Mayor of Seoul, later President of Korea – announced his plan to tear down the expressway and beautify the stream, only to be met with outrage from Korea’s hugely influential press, and a public angry at the near-$1bn cost of the project – years of neglect had run the stream almost dry, meaning that all water needed to be pumped in. The renovations went ahead, despite some heads rolling on corruption charges in the course of the project (Lee had strong links to the construction industry), and since being completed in 2005 it has become one of Seoul’s most popular spots with locals and visitors alike.
청계천 • Daily 24hr • Free • Accessible from many stations, including Gwanghwamun (line 5) and Jonggak (line 1)
One of central Seoul’s most popular spots with locals and visitors alike is Cheonggyecheon, a small waterway whose bankside paths make great strolling territory. Until surprisingly recently, Cheonggyecheon was a mucky stream running beneath an elevated highway, but in 2003 the decision was made to ditch the road and beautify the creek – a far more controversial project than it may sound (see box above). Since completion in 2005 it has served as one of Seoul’s most popular pedestrian thoroughfares: on descending you’ll notice that the capital’s ceaseless cacophony has been diluted, and largely replaced by the sound of rushing water; streamside features include sculptures and fountains, while regular chains of stepping stones make it possible to cross from one side to the other. On sunny days, local children (and the young at heart) can’t resist the urge to jump in and have a splash around; the water quality is okay – it’s all pumped in – but subject to the inevitable sullying when so many people are around, so you may prefer simply to bathe your feet.
Running parallel to Jongno for almost the entire course of the road, Cheonggyecheon starts just southeast of Gwanghwamun Plaza, at a point marked by a curious piece of modern art designed to resemble a snail. Most visitors limit their visit to this area, not realising this is actually one of the few good chances for a long stroll that Seoul has to offer: the 3km walk east to Dongdaemun market is extremely pleasant, with the paths continuing for a further 7km beyond, joining the Hangang near Oksu station – a stretch used almost exclusively by local joggers, cyclists and power-walkers.