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Myeongdong
Shopaholics will find themselves quite at home in Seoul: the city has everything from trendy to traditional and markets to malls. High on the itinerary of many tourists are the colossal markets of Dongdaemun and Namdaemun, but there’s much more on offer – clothing running the gamut from traditional to designer via tailored suits, a range of artistic produce including excellent pottery and Joseon-era antiques, and all the electrical goods you could possibly desire. Many of the city’s shops stay open late into the evening and most accept the standard international credit cards, including Visa, Mastercard and Union Pay – making shopping in Seoul all the more seductive.
A good place to head for anything arty is Insadonggil and its side-streets, where you’ll find numerous galleries, as well as craft shops selling paints, brushes, calligraphy ink and handmade paper. For antiques, Itaewon is best, with the road known as “Antiques Alley” stretching south from the subway station. There’s quite a lot of authentic Joseon-era furniture out there, too; this was once an absolute bargain (indeed, it’s still occasionally possible to find antiques lying on the streets), but demand from abroad has pushed supply down and prices up. Replica dynastic furniture is cheaper and more abundant. All antiques shops can organize overseas shipping.
Kwang Ju Yo 광주요 42-2 Bukchon-ro 
02 741 4801, 
kwangjuyo.com; Anguk subway; map. Korea has been at the forefront of world pottery for centuries, and this store is one of the best places to buy it. Celadon bowls and porcelain vases are among the items on offer, while they also sell Andong soju (a particularly potent form of the national drink, at 41 percent ABV) in elaborate jars: perfect souvenirs. Daily 10am–9pm.
Yido Pottery 이도 본점 191 Changdeokgung-gil 02 722 0756, yido.kr; Anguk subway; map. Just up the road from Kwang Ju Yo, this pottery store is perhaps even more interesting. Here you’ll find tea sets, plates and other great offerings from some of the country’s top talents, many of whom learned their craft at Hongdae. Daily 10am–7pm.
Zack 잭 26 Samcheon-ro 4-gil 010 4183 0499; Anguk subway; map. It may be exaggerating to call Kim Hyunkwan’s tiny stall a shop, but what a find this is – he sells prints of his gorgeous etchings of the area’s hanok buildings, and they’re very affordable (from W5000 for a little one). The views from here are suitably impressive too. Sometimes closes early when it’s raining. Daily 11am–5pm.
Myung Sin Dang 명신당 34 Insadong-gil 02 722 4846; Anguk subway; map. The most renowned of Insadong’s many art supplies shops (Queen Elizabeth II once popped by), focusing solely on the humble paintbrush – there are hundreds of styles on offer here, including some made with baby hair. Daily 10am–6pm.
Ssamiziegil 쌈지길 44 Insadong-gil; Anguk subway; map. A wonderfully designed building whose spiral walkway plays host to countless small shops selling traditional clothing, handmade paper, jewellery and the like. There’s also a rooftop market at weekends, selling all manner of quirky arts and crafts. Daily 10.30am–9pm.
Tongin 통인 가게 32 Insadong-gil 02 733 4867, tonginstore.com; Anguk subway; map. Colonial structure with whole floors full of antique cases, cupboards, medicine racks and other furniture, much of it in a distinctively oriental style; at least one of the proprietors speaks English, and the store can arrange shipping. Daily 10am–8pm.
Hyojae 효재 131 Samcheong-ro 02 720 5393; Hansung University subway; map. Tiny shop with a big reputation for producing high-quality traditional fabrics, clothing and pottery. Of most interest to foreign customers will be the silk wrapping cloths known as bojagi, which make great small souvenirs. The shop is a bit out of the way – it’s right opposite Gilsangsa temple. Daily 10am–6pm.
Jeojip 저집 142-1 Cheonguimun-ro 02 3417 0119; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. Blink and you’ll miss this store, tucked way up north in Buamdong. It sells all manner of delightful chopsticks which, given the price – W100,000 or so – are for display, rather than use. Daily 10am–6pm.
Duty-free shopping
Seoul has a few places in which you can do your duty-free shopping before getting to the airport, including the Shilla and Sheraton Grande hotels, and the dedicated Donghwa Duty Free just outside exit 6 of Gwanghwamun subway station. Cosmetics, beauty and body products, alcohol and designer bags are the most popular purchases, though you’ll need to bring along your passport and plane tickets. In addition, you can get ten percent tax back on anything you’ve bought in Korea worth W30,000 or more from any shop sporting a “Tax Free” logo – usually the aforementioned goods, plus electrical equipment and some clothing.
top 10 for shopping
Seoul has an almost bewildering range of shopping possibilities, but since the city specializes in certain products, it may be best to put these on top of your list of priorities. Here are the best places to shop in each category:
Antique furniture Royal Antiques
Contemporary hanbok Lee Young Hee
Hangeul-character ties Lee Geon Maan
Hanok sketches Zack
Ladies’ shoes Suecomma Bonnie
Oriental fabrics Mono Collection
Pottery Kwang Ju Yo or Yido
Tailored shirts Hamilton Shirts
Tailored suits Hahn’s Custom Tailoring
Vintage clothing Gwangjang Market or Åland
Sangsangmadang 상상마당 65 Eoulmadang-ro 02 330 6243; Sangsu subway; map. Although Hongdae is better known today for its bars than its art, the university that the area is named after is still artistically focused. This arty complex features a gallery, café and cinema, while the ground floor sells small lifestyle goods designed by local students. Daily 9am–9pm.
Curious Curious 큐리어스 큐리어스 43 Noksapyeong-daero 4-gil 070 7502 5869; Noksapyeong subway; map. Gorgeous jewellery including bangles, necklaces and earrings, all handmade at this charming Itaewon boutique store. Prices are reasonable – think W40,000 for a pair of earrings. Tues–Sun 1–9pm.
Millimeter Milligram 밀리미터밀리그람 240 Itaewon-ro 02 549 1520, mmmg.net; Hangangjin subway; map. Seoul-based design team making cutesy cups, cutlery, stationery and the like. They have a few branches around the city, but their flagship store is the best, set under the wonderful Anthracite café. Daily 11am–9pm.
Royal Antiques 로얄 엔틱 10 Seobinggo-ro 91-gil 02 794 9976, royal-antique.com; Itaewon subway; map. Near “Antiques Alley”, this is the best place to head if you’re hunting for a genuine Joseon-era piece of furniture. The owners are friendly and speak English. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.
Mono Collection monocollection.com. Online store selling Korean-styled fabrics including curtains, pillowcases and tablecloths. They occasionally also have an outlet at Incheon airport.
Most of Seoul’s larger bookshops have dedicated English-language sections stocked with novels, history books and language study-guides for those studying Korean or teaching English. There are also a couple of smaller specialist foreign-language stockists in Itaewon.
Hank’s Bookstore 서울 셀렉션 6 Samcheong-ro 02 734 9565, seoulselection.com; Anguk subway; map. Small, friendly shop run by the team behind Seoul magazine, this is particularly good for English-language books about Korean culture. Mon–Sat 9.30am–6.30pm.
Kyobo Books 교보 문고 Kyobo Building B1, 1 Jongno 1544 1900; Gwanghwamun subway; map. Filling the basement level of the huge Kyobo building, this is the country’s largest bookshop, and fantastic for foreign-language books. There’s also a branch in Gangnam, just south of Sinnonhyeon station. Daily 9.30am–10pm.
Youngpoong 영풍 41 Cheonggyecheon-ro 02 399 5600; Jonggak subway; map. Not as good as nearby Kyobo, at least in foreign-language terms, but the selection is still fairly good. Daily 9.30am–10pm.
Foreign Book Store 포린북스토어 208 Noksapyeong-daero 02 793 8249; Noksapyeong subway; map. A rambling affair, and pleasingly messy, selling a selection of mostly secondhand books. Stick around a while and you’re bound to find a gem or two, remnants of decades’ worth of Itaewon expats. Daily 10am–9pm.
What the Book 웟더북 2F 86 Bogwang-ro 02 797 2342, whatthebook.com; Itaewon subway; map. Dedicated foreign-language bookshop that’s extremely popular with expats; everyone seems to end up here at some point. They’ve an extensive secondhand selection too. Daily 10am–9pm.
The city’s department stores sell a wide range of largely expensive clothing, from both local and international brands. Apgujeong has the country’s grandest such stores, as well as a parade of brand-name flagship shops such as Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton; there is also a clutch of boutique stores around nearby Dosan Park. The Hongdae area is full of cheaper clothing boutiques, though many cater for women only. In Itaewon you can get all sorts of things, including leather shoes and jackets, tailored suits and fake watches. Outside Itaewon, foreigners should note that sizes tend to be on the small side, particularly around the hips for females. Most upper-body wear is sold as small, medium and large (with a couple of extras on each side), while for waistlines a confusing mishmash of systems is employed; the American system is most common. Footwear is a different matter, with sizes almost exclusively in millimetres.
Ccomaque 꼬마 25 Bukchon-ro 5-gil 02 722 1547, ccomaque.com; Anguk subway; map. This chain has spread all around the city of late, selling skirts and dresses featuring cutesey, cartoonish designs based around purportedly Korean motifs, including animals such as deer, turtles and cranes, and natural elements such as clouds and pine trees. Daily 10am–8pm.
Coreano 코레아노 39 Insadong-gil 02 720 0301; Anguk subway; map. If you’ve rented some hanbok for a walk around the palaces, but feel like bringing your own home (don’t dare use one as a Hallowe’en costume, or the ghosts of dynastic kings will haunt you forever), this is a great choice, with contemporary styles in gentle colours; skirts go for W75,000 or so, dresses for double that. Daily 10.30am–9pm.
Lee Geon Maan 이건만 29 Insadong-gil 02 733 8265, leegeonmaan.com; Anguk subway; map. Well-located store selling ties for men and handbags for women. Their unique selling point is an innovative use of hangeul, the Korean text conspicuous by its absence on Korean clothing. Daily 10.30am–8pm.
Åland 에이렌드 30 Myeongdong 6-gil 02 3210 5890; Myeongdong subway; map. There are several branches of this popular around the city, but the Myeongdong one is usually best – the lower levels are full of clothing from some of Korea’s edgier designers, while the top floor has a surprisingly well-stocked vintage section. Daily 11am–10pm.
Gwangjang Market 광장시장; Jongno 5-ga subway; map. Though best known for its culinary offerings, this sprawling market has an excellent secondhand section, selling all manner of zany shirts, coats and jackets imported from abroad. It’s a little hard to find: hunt down the staircase on the western side of the market, and head for the second floor. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm.
Style Nanda 스타일 난다 23 Wausanno 29-gil 02 333 9215; Hongik University subway; map. From humble beginnings as an online retailer of secondhand clothes, this has become one of Korea’s most famous youth labels – this three-storey flagship store has singlehandedly raised rent prices in the area. Daily 11am–11pm.
Hahn’s Custom Tailoring 한스 양복 134 Itaewon-ro 02 793 0830, 
hanstailor@hotmail.com; Itaewon subway; map. Get a perfectly tailored suit for around US$500. Affable owner Hahn speaks excellent English, and will be pleased to discuss the particular style you’re after; his tailors also make good shirts. Daily 10am–9pm.
Hamilton Shirts 해밀튼 셔츠 153 Itaewon-ro 02 798 5693, hs76.com; Itaewon subway; map. Tailored shirts at prices less than you’d pay for factory-made fare on your local high street: most shirts go for around W45,000. The quality is amazingly high for the price. Daily 10am–9.30pm.
8Seconds 8세콘드 49 Gangnam-daero 156-gil 070 7090 1144; Sinsa subway; map. Korea’s closest answer to H&M, with striking yet affordable clothing. The flagship store is just off trendy Garosugil. Daily 10.30am–10pm.
Boon The Shop 스페이스 뮤 분더샵 21 Apgujeong-ro 60-gil 02 2056 1234; Apgujeong Rodeo subway; map. This Apgujeong multishop (a Konglish term for a shop selling various brands) sells clothing from upmarket international brands, but even if you can’t afford to spend US$100 on a T-shirt it’s worth popping into for the gorgeous interior alone. Daily 11am–8pm.
Lee Young Hee 이영희 3 Seolleung-ro 155-gil 02 544 0630, leeyounghee.co.kr; Apgujeong subway; map. The popularity of Korea’s traditional clothing, hanbok (한복), has gone through the roof of late, and much of the credit is due to designers like Lee Young Hee, who altered traditional shapes and fabrics to cater for more contemporary tastes. Hillary Clinton has been a customer at their New York branch. Daily 11am–6.30pm.
Nohke 노케 21 Apgujeong-ro 72-gil 02 517 4875, nohke.com; Apgujeong Rodeo subway; map. Small local boutique selling futuristic, feminine designs; the coats here are particularly striking. Designer Misun Jung has made clothing for several major Korean singers and models. Daily 11am–7.30pm.
Suecomma Bonnie 슈콤마본니 27-10 Seolleung-ro 146-gil 02 3443 0217, suecommabonnie.com; Gangnam-gu Office subway; map. Superb ladies’ footwear made by local diva Bonnie Lee. If her designs were good enough for Sex and the City, they’re good enough for you. Daily 10am–7pm.
Babo Shirts baboshirts.com. This foreign-run online store has made money selling Koreans their own alphabet: their occasionally ironic T-shirt slogans have proven popular with locals and expats alike. Figure on around W20,000 per shirt-shaped slice of sarcasm.
Department stores can be found all over the city, and most of them are pretty similar, with a wide range of cosmetics on their ground floor, level after level of clothing above, and usually a food court on top. The bustling streets of Myeongdong host stores from the biggest nationwide chains – Migliore, Shinsaegae, Lotte and Galleria – and there are also luxury examples in Apgujeong. Given the prevalence of department stores, it’s perhaps not much of a surprise that, bar the examples listed here, mall culture has yet to truly permeate the Korean shopping scene.
Shinsegae 신세계 63 Sogong-ro 1588 1234; Myeongdong subway; map. Designed in the 1930s as a branch of the Japanese Mitsukoshi chain, this was Korea’s first department store. Goods from luxury clothing and jewellery brands can be found inside, while the exterior of the old wing is quite charming at night, and extremely striking around Christmas. Daily 11am–8.30pm.
Galleria 겔러리아 343 Apgujeong-ro 02 3449 4114; Apgujeong subway; map. The country’s most exclusive department store, this is arranged in two buildings facing each other across a major road. The artistically designed west wing features a range of local designers, while the even more expensive east wing is home to international mega-labels. Daily 10.30am–8.30pm.
Hyundai 현대 165 Apgujeong-ro 02 547 2233; Apgujeong subway; map. Nowhere near as exclusive as Galleria down the road, this is a better hunting ground for clothing from local designers – particularly recommended are Solidhomme for men, Son Jung Wan for women, and Andy & Debb for both. Daily 10.30am–8.30pm.
Starfield 스타필드 Coex, 513 Yeongdong-daero 02 6002 5300; Samseong subway; map. A huge underground shopping mall featuring all manner of local and international chain shops, and a simply gorgeous bookstore which has no English-language books, but is certainly worth a few photos. Daily 10.30am–10pm.
Times Square 타임스퀘어 15 Yeongjung-ro 02 2638 2000; Yeongdeungpo subway; map. More of a Western-style mall than Coex, this is a large, attractive space filled with all the chains you’d expect – the signage is dreadful, however, and it’s an annoying walk from the subway station. Daily 10.30am–10pm.
Korea may be one of the world’s most innovative producers of electronic goods, but the prices of such goods and the range on offer here are little different to most Western countries. You can take a peek at futuristic mobile phone designs at the fascinating Samsung D’light showroom in Gangnam or head to the streets south of Chungmuro station for used camera equipment: some shop owners here speak some English, too.
Techno Mart 테크노 마트 85 Gwangnaru-ro 56-gil; Gangbyeon subway; map. Out near the Dongseoul bus terminal in eastern Seoul, this is a gigantic place stocking all manner of electronic goods. Prices are generally about twenty percent less than elsewhere in the country, though this can rise to fifty percent for imported goods. Daily 10am–7pm.
Yongsan Electronics Market 용산 전자 상가 125 Cheongpa-ro; Yongsan subway; map. This multi-level giant rises up alongside the Yongsan train station. Many staff speak a little English, and it’s a great place just to look around, even if you’re not buying. It’s a bit more expensive than Techno Mart for some goods. Daily 10am–7.30pm.
Club Espresso 클럽 에스프레쏘 132 Changuimun-ro 02 764 8719; Gyeongbokgung subway; map. If you’re living in Seoul, this is where to buy your beans. The range of single-plantation Java is huge and truly global, from Zambian Munama Ndola to Brazilian Santo Antonio, and the pine interior is a pleasant place to compare and contrast a few samples. Daily 9am–9pm.
Lotte 롯데 81 Namdaemun-ro 02 771 2500; Euljiro 1-ga subway; map. This huge, slightly faceless department store is popular with expats thanks to its well-stocked supermarket, located in the basement. Daily 10.30am–8pm.
Seoul has a quite phenomenal number of outdoor markets – there will be one within walking distance wherever you are, with the kimchi and fish products on offer making it possible to follow your nose. As well as a range of food, each market will also have a clothing section, with fake designer goods a particular speciality. The largest and most central markets are Dongdaemun and Namdaemun, though the fish market at Noryangjin deserves a special mention, as does Gwangjang market, an offshoot of the mammoth Dongdaemun complex. Though far smaller, there’s also an interesting weekly flea market at Nolita Park in Hongdae, and one focusing on jewellery in nearby Yeonnamdong.
The Korean music scene may be flooded with K-pop and local hip-hop, but there are a few shops dotted around Seoul that dare to venture underground. Mainstream fare can be found at one of the large bookstores.
Nagwon Arcade 낙원 상가 428 Samil-daero; Jongno 3-ga subway; map. If you want to play music rather than listen to it, head straight to this large arcade in Insadong, where more than a hundred small shops sell musical instruments. With customers and shop owners alike testing the products, this pleasantly crusty building can be quite atmospheric – and you can get a super-budget meal in the basement. Daily 9am–8pm.
Record 레코드 57 Huinamuro 13-gil; Itaewon subway; map. Gyeongnidan record store with a very decent selection of foreign independent music, and also a happy hunting ground for the works of local artists; a thoroughly pleasant place to hang out and sift through records. Daily 3–10pm.